From the Sector

Over the course of one month, from the beginning of January until mid-February 2025, SEEK will play at a new 5-floor location in Berlin (Oranienstrasse), becoming a home to brands, showrooms, agencies, the Conscious Club, marketing-driven events and showcases as well as the return of the infamous Designer Sale.

New space
Five floors of the historic building from 1900, offer the ideal setting of SEEK's new modular system and return to its simple, clean and reduced set up. Every floor is about 600 sqm big, and offers high ceilings, large window facades and therefore lots of daylight as well as wide, open spaces to present the latest products and smaller rooms as a retreat or ideal for private order appointments.
 
The new location, especially with its various floors, offers brands and agencies the opportunity to curate and target specific audiences: whether it's by appointment only, engaging with press and content creators, attracting potential new customers, like-minded individuals, or end-consumers.

New concept
SEEK and the team behind the Berlin fashion event puts its 15 years of experience in use and presents a completely new, independent, innovative, agile, solution-focused and adaptable, month-long concept. According to the motto "the customer is always right", SEEK replies and reacts to the markets' and the exhibitors' needs: concentrated and coherent brand scenarios, individually bookable time periods and customised conditions for various needs and objectives.
 
"It's not the right time for a one-size-fits-all approach. The needs, strategies, objectives and timelines of our exhibitors and visitors are more diverse than ever been before. Two set-in-stone days and one big location hosting them all are just not the Zeitgeist anymore. Brands and agencies get together and create smaller, more intimate showroom concepts. The Conscious Club is a close-knit community that thrives from exchange, collaboration and togetherness. Classic calendars as well as designs of mens- and womenswear become blurred. Outdoor and function wear is part of not just streetwear culture any more. We need to react to these trends and offer modular options and dates" says Elli Moreno, SEEK
 
New timescale
The new concept is consciously taking a step back from the traditional trade show calendar and fashion week schedule. This upcoming Autumn/Winter 2025/26 season is the tightest and busiest yet - the perfect starting point to launch SEEK's new concept. The Berlin based fashion and lifestyle event organisers open the doors beginning of January 2025, before the first European trade show takes place, as well as over the course of Berlin Fashion Week, which will take place at the beginning of February.
 
In close conversations with those responsible, SEEK will develop and present coherent concepts, brand scenarios and agencies' showrooms at various appropriate and reasonable times. SEEK, as well as its traditional role as an organiser, will now - more than ever - act as a landlord, communicator, consultant and most importantly: host.
 
"With the new concept we're acting on and expressing what everyone's thinking! The timelines, fashion weeks as well as trade shows and events in Europe are more and more overlapping. We have to stop thinking in black and white, outdated calendars and segments, and dictating when brands and agencies have to write orders and close the books. Flexibility, independence, the very honest, loyal relationships with our exhibitors and visitors and down-to-earthness are our absolute USPs, which we will now benefit from!" Marie-Luise Ahlers, SEEK

Fabtex Georgia 2024 International Textile Industry Fair has concluded with remarkable success, bringing together over 1,050 professional visitors from 11 countries, including Georgia, Russia, Armenia, India, China, Ukraine, Germany, Iran, Turkey, Poland, and Pakistan.

This year’s exhibition featured 52 exhibitors from Georgia, Turkey, Azerbaijan, the UAE, Uzbekistan, and China, underscoring the event's international significance.

The exhibition's exhibitor profile primarily focuses on knitted fabrics, woven fabrics, fabrics for workwear and uniforms, various accessories, garment and sewing machinery, and ready-to-wear items.

Georgia has a long-standing tradition in the textile sector, dating back to Soviet times, and is currently home to production for international brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Zara, Moncler, and Puma.

Georgia’s strategic location at the crossroads of Western Asia and Eastern Europe, coupled with its rich textile history, makes it an ideal hub for textile manufacturing and investment. The country boasts several Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) with Turkey and CIS nations, as well as a Deep and Comprehensive Free Trade Agreement (DCFTA) with the EU, providing access to a market of approximately 900 million people without customs duties.

Polyester has been the cornerstone of the textile printing industry for decades. Its compatibility with the digital sublimation process—a cost-effective, simple technology—has driven exponential growth in polyester printing. However, the very characteristics that make polyester well suited for sublimation printing render this printing technique unsuitable for other materials, such as cotton and some blended fibres, leaving a significant gap in the market.

This gap was, until recently, partially filled by direct-to-textile printing. However, this method requires substantial initial investments in equipment and heavily relies on the time- and resource-consuming pre- and post-processing of fabrics to ensure colourfastness, colour accuracy, and compatibility with different substrates. Consequently, a need arose for a more sustainable and cost-effective solution that could cater to a wider range of textiles.

In response to this demand, Mimaki spent six years developing a breakthrough technology, TRAPIS, a simple two-step textile transfer printing solution, consisting of only an inkjet printer and a high-pressure calender. The design of choice is printed by the inkjet printer onto the company’s groundbreaking Texcol® pigment ink transfer paper. This is then transferred to the application via the calender.

Entirely removing the treatment stages means that printing on non-polyester materials has gone from an expensive and time-consuming task to one that is simple, cost-efficient and more sustainable.

Ideal for home textiles and soft signage which often require vibrant colours but varied materials, this technology gives printers the ability to print on a wide variety of materials, including natural fibres like cotton and silk without losing stretchability or colourfastness. All this can be done with just one type of ink, making the process flexible and adaptable to customer demands.  

The pre-treatment and washing of the fabric is often needed in digital dye printing, producing a significant amount of wastewater in the process. TRAPIS eliminates those stages altogether and is almost entirely waterless, saving around 14.5 litres per square metre of water, an almost 90% decrease in comparison to digital dye printing .

Additionally, this eliminates the need for wastewater treatment facilities, which can be both expensive and constrictive when it comes to where the solution is installed.

EDANA welcomes the European Commission’s proposed one-year delay in the implementation of the Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), as outlined in their recent press release. This amendment, while still needing approval from both the Council and the European Parliament, marks a significant step toward ensuring that our industry has the necessary time to effectively comply with the terms of this important regulation, while also continuing to meet their sustainability goals.

While the long-awaited guidelines for implementing the EUDR have now been released alongside the announcement, the EU's information system, designed to track materials and commodities, is still under development. As a key representative of the nonwovens sector, EDANA supports the regulation’s objectives and remains a constructive partner, actively contributing to discussions with policymakers and industry stakeholders.

This additional phase-in time will enable further collaboration with the authorities and our coalition partners, ensuring a smooth transition for all affected industries. EDANA remains committed to promoting sustainable supply chains and responsible practices, while helping ensure compliance across the sector. Our ongoing work aims to foster long-term, sustainable growth for the industry.

As a leading company in workwear, flame retardant and defence and security fabrics, Carrington Textiles announced their commitment to sustainability by pledging exclusive support for the Better Cotton initiative with all our products containing cotton.

The announcement was made on the occasion of World Cotton Day on 7th October 2024, an ideal opportunity to highlight the commitment to developing workwear fabrics that not only offer high levels of quality and performance, but also support the production of responsibly sourced cotton globally.

Better Cotton is an initiative that promotes sustainable cotton farming practices to improve the environment and the livelihoods of farmers while ensuring high-quality cotton for consumers.
In 2019-2020, Better Cotton licensed over 2.4 million farmers from 23 countries across five continents. Together, these farmers produced 23% of the world’s cotton.

Better Cotton is sourced via a chain of custody model called mass balance. This means that Better Cotton is not physically traceable to end products, however, Better Cotton Farmers benefit from the demand for Better Cotton in equivalent volumes to those sourced.

When customers buy any of Carrington Textiles fabrics containing cotton, Better Cotton Credits or BCCUs are generated. These BCCUs can be claimed by a registered company directly on the Better Cotton Platform and used to communicate the responsibly source nature of the fabric’s cotton by using hang tags, labels and other marketing materials.

Neil Davey, Carrington Textiles' Managing Director, announced this commitment to sustainability reflecting the company's dedication to reducing its environmental footprint and providing customers with responsibly sourced materials.

Neil stated, "With 99% of fabrics from our FR, workwear and defence ranges containing cotton, this is a huge step towards our sustainability efforts, all of which we are proud to cover in our latest Sustainability Report. This initiative is expected to have a lasting positive impact on our products and the planet."

About 50 Italian companies will exhibit at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, taking place from October 14 to 18 in Shanghai. With an area of around 1,400 square meters, Italy ranks among the top exhibiting countries, as in previous editions. 29 Italian exhibitors will show their innovations within the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT (Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and Italian Trade Agency.

ITMA ASIA + CITME show has always been the main showcase for textile machinery manufacturers in Asia, that absorbs over 50% of global exports. Moreover China is the world’s largest market in the sector (the value of imported textile machinery in 2023 was around 2.6 billion euro).

For Italian manufacturers as well, the Chinese market is the top foreign destination. In 2023, Italian sales to China amounted to 222 million euro. In the first six months of this year, exports to China increased by 38%, while the performance of total Italian exports declined slightly in the same period.

“We hope that the recovery of the Chinese market, observed in this first half of the year, may be an early indication of a more general upturn in global demand for machinery,” says ACIMIT President Marco Salvadè. Over the past few years, demand from Chinese companies has turned to technologies that combine savings in production costs and environmental friendliness, as also demanded by brands and end consumers. “Today, Italian manufacturers can offer highly customized solutions that are particularly suited to making textile production more sustainable,” confirms Salvadè. “The Chinese textile machinery market is rapidly evolving, and the level of innovation in the technology requested has risen due to the growing international competition that even Chinese companies face. In Shanghai, Italian manufacturers will display their latest innovations, essential for making textile production more efficient and sustainable.”

Monforts recently celebrated its 140th anniversary at a special event for staff and their families at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany. Building on a rich history since its foundation by August Monforts in 1884, the company remains 100% dedicated to the development of technologies that will ensure the future success of its textile industry customers.

Under the motto, ‘140 Years of Performance, Innovation and Partners’, Monforts is looking forward to further celebrating this milestone with its representatives and customers at the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Shanghai from October 14-18, in Hall 5 at stand C09.

The first Monforts machines were mechanical napping units for raising the surfaces of cotton fabrics, providing softness and warmth and adding value. By 1893, Monforts 24-roller napping machines were drawing appreciative crowds at the World Fair in Chicago – establishing international trade networks was paramount to the company from the outset.

In 1897, August Monforts established an iron foundry equipped with hydraulic casting machines, by which time the company employed 1,200 people. This was followed by the introduction of semi-automatic manufacturing tools – an area in which Monforts achieved a number of firsts, such as the single-spindle lathe which became a big export hit in the late 1930s due to its unique and unmatched precision.

Overseen by successive four generations of the Monforts family, the company’s range of textile machines has been significantly expanded based on decades of accumulated know-how and a dominant position in fabric finishing technologies has been established.

Since 2013, Monforts has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s Group, today one of the world’s largest textile machinery manufacturers.

Since its opening in 2013, the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach has proved a valuable resource to customers for achieving new standards in fabric finishing.

Over an area of 1,200 square metres, it houses two full finishing lines, engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full colour kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials.

“The ATC allows our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics on Monforts dyeing and finishing machines under fully confidential, real production conditions,” says Monforts Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “Using the results from these trials, we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes.”

Rajiv Sharma has been appointed as the new Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Archroma with key responsibility for the Textile Effects business, effective October 1, 2024. Current Group CEO Mark Garrett will transition to the Archroma Board of Directors.

Rajiv Sharma comes to Archroma following a 14-year tenure with Coats Group plc, where he was Group Chief Executive for the last eight years. As head of the UK-listed company, which is the world leader in thread manufacturing and structural components for apparel and footwear, Mr. Sharma created a platform for profitable growth and shaped a company culture based on customer centricity, innovation, digitalization and sustainability.

In parallel with these leadership changes, Archroma’s Packaging Technologies business will be established as a focused business activity from October 1, 2024, with the aim of increasing its focus on the packaging business and accelerating its development. It will continue under the leadership of its CEO, Sameer Singla, who will report directly to the Archroma Board of Directors. Packaging Technologies has also delivered substantial growth with more dedicated leadership over the past two years and the organizational changes will help both Textile Effects and Packaging Technologies continue to focus on best serving their respective customers and markets.

Ontex Group NV (Euronext: Ontex), international developer and producer of personal care products, announced a binding agreement to sell its Brazilian business activities to Softys S.A. for an enterprise value of BRL 671 million (or approximately €110 million*).

Softys is a personal hygiene company with operations across Latin America, that also acquired Ontex’s Mexican business activities in 2023. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of Empresas CMPC S.A., which is headquartered in Chile.

The transaction includes Ontex’s business in Brazil and its manufacturing facility in Senador Canedo in the State of Goiás. The business develops, manufactures, commercializes and distributes diapers and pants for the baby care market under the PomPom, Cremer, Sapeka and Turma da Mônica brands, as well as for the adult care market under the Bigfral brand. It has approximately 1,400 employees and contributed revenue of €97 million and adjusted EBITDA of €13 million to the Group in the first half of 2024.

Subject to customary balance sheet adjustments, the net proceeds of the transaction, after deduction of tax-related payments and transaction fees, are expected to be approximately €82 million*, of which up to €18 million* will be held in escrow. The transaction will generate a net gain on disposal of approximately €39 million* and trigger the recognition of a non-cash accounting loss of approximately €(140) million* related to the accumulated currency translation reserves.

Ontex and Softys aim to close the transaction, which is subject to customary conditions, including merger clearance from the Brazilian antitrust authority, during the first half of 2025.

• Construction progress of world’s first PET enzymatic biorecycling plant in France: in line with production targets in 2026
• Commercial development: several Letters of Intent signed in view of licensing agreements
• Consolidated cash position of €120.7 million on 30 June 2024, plus €23.4 million in term deposits classified as financial assets. In addition, €42.5 million in public funding is expected.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, reported its operating and financial results for the first half of 2024.
The financial statements as of 30 June 2024 were approved by CARBIOS' Board of Directors.

The improvement in the financial results is mainly due to the increase in the Company’s financial income from interest on money market investments and term deposits of its cash and cash equivalents. Cash is systematically invested in risk-free, highly liquid money market products.

The decrease in financial expenses is mainly due to the capitalization of borrowing costs for the Longlaville plant.

The Group’s operating income (loss) shows a loss of €18.1 million at 30 June 2024 (€13.7 million loss at 30 June 2023).

The Group’s cash position stands at €120.7 million at 30 June 2024, plus
€23.4 million in term deposits classified as financial assets (for a total cash of €144 million after incorporation of term deposits) (€192 million at 31 December 2023).

On the basis of cashflow position to date, and the Company’s forecast operating expenses, CARBIOS considers to be able to cover its needs beyond the next 12 months. In addition, €42.5 million euros in public funding is expected.

In the first six months of 2024:

• The Group incurred €11,771 thousand in R&D expenses. The rise in R&D costs is mainly due to increased staff costs in line with the development of the Group’s various activities.
• The Group reported €1,952 thousand of Subsidies and other business income, which partially offset these R&D expenses. This item mainly consists of €1,379 thousand in tax credit for first-half 2024, of which €1,043 thousand relates to CARBIOS and €336 thousand to Carbiolice.

Finally, the Group continued to capitalize the Development expenses of its PET biorecycling project, booking a total €1,618 thousand in the first half of 2024, in accordance with IAS 38 capitalization criteria.

During this first period of the 2024 financial year, CARBIOS forged several international strategic partnerships with a view to deploying its licensing model for its technology and know-how in the field of PET plastic and textile enzymatic biorecycling.