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The Materials Market Report 2024 (c) Textile Exchange
30.09.2024

Materials Market Report 2024: Fossil-based synthetics dominate

Textile Exchange launched the first Materials Market Report in 2013 as a comprehensive, annual publication that provides unique data and insights into global fiber and raw materials production.

The Materials Market Report shares best available data on global fibre and material production volumes alongside program-specific volumes and other insights such as the number of certified sites. For the purpose of this report, leather, rubber, and down are considered non-fibre raw materials and are therefore included separately from the section and charts on ‘global fibre’.

Textile Exchange launched the first Materials Market Report in 2013 as a comprehensive, annual publication that provides unique data and insights into global fiber and raw materials production.

The Materials Market Report shares best available data on global fibre and material production volumes alongside program-specific volumes and other insights such as the number of certified sites. For the purpose of this report, leather, rubber, and down are considered non-fibre raw materials and are therefore included separately from the section and charts on ‘global fibre’.

It helps inform the textile industry’s efforts to reduce emissions associated with raw material production in line with a 1.5-degree temperature rise pathway. The report highlights the urgency to accelerate the transition to fibres from preferred sources, intensify efforts to significantly reduce reliance on virgin fossil-based materials, and invest in strategies that separate value creation from the need for extracting new materials.

It’s important to note that the compilation of global market data for fibres and raw materials is challenging and the quality of available data is often limited. The collection of primary data from suppliers is beyond the scope of this report so Textile Exchange relies on secondary data from industry associations, international organizations, governmental organizations, standard setters, and research institutes.

While Textile Exchange has collected, analysed, and compiled this information in all good conscience and has cross-checked it wherever possible, the report is intended for general guidance and information purposes only. Data gaps and inconsistencies are common in global market data, so modelling has often had to be applied.

Global fibre production reached an all-time high of 124 million tonnes in 2023, according to the latest Materials Market Report– which looks at total volumes used for apparel, home textiles, footwear, or any other application.

The data shows that the market share of virgin fossil-based synthetics continued to increase in 2023, with a decline in that of cotton and recycled fibres. Other key takeaways from the report’s data include:

  • Record fibre production: Despite industry efforts, global fibre production has more than doubled since 2000. The last year’s 124 million tonnes represents a 7% increase from 116 million tonnes in 2022, and is expected to rise to 160 million tonnes in 2030 if current trends continue.
  • Synthetics continue to dominate: The production of virgin fossil-based synthetic fibres increased from 67 million tonnes in 2022 to 75 million tonnes in 2023. Polyester remained the most produced fibre globally, accounting for 57% of total fibre production.
  • Recycled synthetics face challenges: Although recycled polyester fibre production slightly increased in 2023, the overall market share of recycled polyester decreased from 13.6% to 12.5%. For polyamide (nylon), the second most used synthetic fibre, recycled fibres constituted only 2% of the total market share. These trends are attributed to the lower prices and continued production of virgin synthetics, as well as current limitations in recycling technologies. Less than 1% of the global fibre market came from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.

    The combined share of all recycled fibres slightly decreased in 2023, from around 7.9% to 7.7%, mainly due to an increase in the production of fossil-based polyester, which had lower prices than recycled polyester. Fossil based synthetics production increased from 67 million tonnes in 2022 to 75 million tonnes in 2023. Meanwhile, less than 1% of the global fibre market came from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.
  • Cotton production saw a slight decline: Total global cotton volumes fell slightly from 25.1 million tonnes in 2022 to 24.4 million tonnes in 2023. However, the share of cotton produced under sustainability programs remained stable, accounting for 29% of all cotton produced.
  • Certified wool climbs: Data showed positive trends for wool produced under standards such as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ, SustainaWOOL (GREEN and GOLD), Sustainable Cape Wool Standard (SCWS) and Climate Beneficial programs. This increased from 4.2% in 2022 to 4.8% in 2023. Recycled wool continued to account for around 6% of the global wool market.
  • Certified mohair and cashmere reached almost half of market share: Certified fibres such as mohair and cashmere saw notable growth, both with market shares of 47%.
  • Manmade cellulosic fibres production increased: Overall MMCF production increased from 7.4 million tonnes in 2022 to 7.9 million tonnes in 2023, representing 6% of the global fibre market.

The report highlights a continued reliance on new virgin fossil-based synthetic materials, threatening to undermine the industry’s commitments to its climate goals. It also shows the current limitations of textile-to-textile recycling and an urgent need for innovative solutions, with most recycled polyester still coming from PET bottles.

Amid these concerns, one positive trend that stands out is the increased industry demand for responsible animal fibres through programs like the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) and Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS), both contributing to better animal welfare and environmental management. This indicates the potential of farm-level standards of this kind to increase market recognition of more sustainable practices on the ground.

“We hope this data serves as a clear call to action for the industry, highlighting both the successes and the critical areas where we must intensify our focus to meet climate targets,” said Claire Bergkamp, CEO of Textile Exchange.

“Unlocking textile-to-textile recycling pathways will be essential to reducing reliance on virgin synthetics. Equally important is continuing to support those on the ground who are driving the transition from conventional systems to preferred materials. It is more urgent than ever to support those who have already invested in preferred systems, while also enabling the transition away from conventional at scale.”

Download of the Materials Market Report 2024.

More information:
fibre production Market report
Source:

Textile Exchange

Project Remake Photo Anna Kjellsson
23.09.2024

Textile skills for unemployed individuals to enter a new industry

From 2025, municipalities will be required to collect and manage large volumes of textiles, following the EU's new waste directive. The project "Remake Textile" is preparing for this by providing skill development to long-term unemployed individuals. At the Swedish School of Textiles, participants learn about textiles and ways to breathe new life into old fabrics.

From 2025, municipalities will be required to collect and manage large volumes of textiles, following the EU's new waste directive. The project "Remake Textile" is preparing for this by providing skill development to long-term unemployed individuals. At the Swedish School of Textiles, participants learn about textiles and ways to breathe new life into old fabrics.

Three groups, each consisting of participants who have been out of the job market for an extended period, will take part in the project over nine months. The project began with a focus on health and working life before shifting its focus to textiles. The first group has just completed their time at the Swedish School of Textiles and is now moving on to internships in the second-hand industry.
“They have lea
rned how a fibre becomes yarn and then fabric. We have worked with printing and dyeing and how to create a product from the material. We have also worked on repairs – mending and fixing garments and textiles,” explains Tuser Biswas, postdoctoral researcher in textile technology who leads the Swedish School of Textiles' part of the project.

In addition to the Swedish School of Textiles at the University of Borås, other project partners include the Gothenburg Region, the organisations Doing Good and Coompanion, and it is financed by the European Social Fund.

“In this project, there was a demand for knowledge in an area that doesn't yet exist on the market – something that will be important in the future. With the waste directive, solutions are needed to handle textile waste, and the hope is that participants in this project will have valuable skills and be able to start working in this industry at short notice,” Tuser Biswas explains.

Education as Part of the Solution
“In this project, we are trying to address the upcoming waste challenge with education. However, this education is not as intensive as our regular courses and programmes. We have tried to be flexible and adapt to the participants’ prior knowledge and to what we can offer in two weeks,” says Tuser Biswas.

Positive Participants
Nino, one of the participants, previously had experience in creating and redesigning garments.
“I have done a lot on my own before too. I have always been punk in that way – if there are no resources, I still go ahead. These weeks at the Swedish School of Textiles have been fun; it has been very positive to try everything out and luxurious to come here, meet all the great teachers, and be in the facilities.”

Looking forward to the internship at a second-hand shop, Nino feels prepared:
“We will get to choose from textile waste that cannot be sold. Instead, we will create something new out of it!”

About the project Remake Textile
The objective of the project is to develop innovative solutions for managing the increasing amount of textile waste that municipalities will be responsible for from 2025 onwards. At the same time, it focuses on research training and skills development about textile recycling for unemployed people with good academic backgrounds.

Start date: 2024-03-01
End date: 2026-02-28

Through collaboration with various partners, the project aims to increase the workforce for textile sorting facilities in municipalities and recycling industries, while supporting cooperative and non-profit organizations in circular textile activities.

The outcome of the project is expected to promote a sustainable circular business model through textile sorting and recycling activities, which can serve as a model for the whole industry. The aim is to create a solution that both promotes sustainability in the textile industry and increases opportunities for those previously unemployed and economically vulnerable. At the same time, the municipalities will be well-informed and given the opportunity to use our developed training modules and personnel during or after the project period.

Source:

University of Borås, Anna Kjellsson

This image from the CoCuRA software shows how it identifes conventional cotton, organic cotton and other agricultural fields. Source GOTS
17.09.2024

Detecting organically grown cotton with AI support via satellite

The project:

  • analysed 2.7 million square kilometres in India for organic cotton
  • demonstrates 97% accuracy rate in detecting cotton fields, over 80% accu-racy in determining their organic status.
  • aims to increase organic cotton integrity and availability

In a pioneering move that could reshape sustainable agriculture, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and AI firm Marple have unveiled the results of their revolutionary Satellite Cotton Monitoring Project in India, demonstrating a 97% accuracy rate in detecting cotton fields and over 80% accuracy in determining their organic status. Addressing critical challenges in the industry, this innovative project aims to increase organic cotton availability and secure fibre integrity, building on GOTS's existing robust measures.

The project:

  • analysed 2.7 million square kilometres in India for organic cotton
  • demonstrates 97% accuracy rate in detecting cotton fields, over 80% accu-racy in determining their organic status.
  • aims to increase organic cotton integrity and availability

In a pioneering move that could reshape sustainable agriculture, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and AI firm Marple have unveiled the results of their revolutionary Satellite Cotton Monitoring Project in India, demonstrating a 97% accuracy rate in detecting cotton fields and over 80% accuracy in determining their organic status. Addressing critical challenges in the industry, this innovative project aims to increase organic cotton availability and secure fibre integrity, building on GOTS's existing robust measures.

Global Standard is a trailblazer, solution provider and thought leader in the voluntary sustainability standards space, and the Satellite Cotton Monitoring Project continues this tradition of innovation and creative thinking.

How it Works
Co-financed by Global Standard, the non-profit behind GOTS, and the European Space Agency’s (ESA) Business Applications and Space Solutions (BASS) programme, the project leverages the Cotton Cultivation Remote Assessment (CoCuRA) software developed by Marple.

Field teams visited over 6,000 fields in India, across the states of Gujarat, Haryana, Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra, collecting data on crops, soil types and cultivation status. This data was then used by Marple to refine the CoCuRA algorithm for cotton specifics in India. Once the algorithm was trained, it was applied to the entire agricultural area of India, covering a staggering 2.7 million square kilometres. Within seconds, CoCuRA detected all organic and conventional cotton fields with remarkable accuracy. A project of this magnitude is only possible with CoCuRA with no other comparable project or data in existence.

Enhancing Organic Cotton Availability
The technology's ability to pinpoint cotton fields where farmers use near-organic or uncertified organic methods can ensure a steady increase in certified organic cotton by facilitating their certification process.

Jeffrey Thimm, organic production specialist at Global Standard, said, "This technology identifies farmers who use sustainable methods that meet organic standards but lack certification. By integrating these farms into conversion projects, it boosts organic cotton supply, promotes sustainable farming practices and enables farmers to access premiums on their supplies."

Securing Organic Fibre Integrity
Building on GOTS's robust integrity measures, the CoCuRA software integrates AI technology with satellite data to verify cultivation practices meticulously. The data collected also contributes to Global Standards’ Global Fibre Registry, consolidating comprehensive data on raw material production before entering the GOTS value chain, further adding to fraud detection and prevention.

Sustainability in Textiles
Global Standard is recognised for its comprehensive approach to sustainability. From promoting human rights along the value chain to banning harmful chemicals in certified textiles, GOTS sets a benchmark for integrity and sustainability. In addition, GOTS certification is a powerful tool that helps companies comply with legal requirements globally.

"For over 20 years, we have been pioneering solutions to help the industry on its journey towards sustainability,” said Claudia Kersten, managing director of Global Standard. “This project is a game changer, combining satellite technology with AI to meet the growing demand for genuine organic cotton. In addition, this eye in the sky will prevent fraud by allowing us to crosscheck locations and field sizes in a very cost-efficient way. It's a win-win-win situation: farmers have an incentive to grow organic and improve their lives, the industry can secure its supply and meet its sustainability goals, and consumers have a greater choice of organic textiles."

Future Prospects and Global Impact
Following the successful pilot in India, the project aims to expand globally.

Daniel Lanz, managing partner at Marple, said, "India faces unique challenges in the satellite-based detection of agricultural fields. Firstly, the country is extremely large and spans several climate zones. Secondly, field sizes are very small, and thirdly, field boundaries are often indistinguishable, with one field merging into the next. Despite these challenges, CoCuRA has achieved astonishing accuracy in detecting cotton fields and assessing their cultivation methods. This breakthrough provides a pioneering overview of cotton production in India that would be impossible to achieve on the ground. CoCuRA will help protect the integrity of organic farmers and may facilitate more smallholders transitioning to organic farming by simplifying the certification process."

Guillaume Tuan Prigent, a business developer and partnership officer in ESA’s Applications Projects and Studies Division said, “The potential impact of the solution lies in its ability to be scaled and this is exactly what we are working on. We are looking to deliver a solution that could have a global impact for the benefit of all. “

Global Standard is eager to see this technology extend to other regions and additional fibres, which could revolutionise how crops are monitored.

wind energy Photo: Carlos / Saigon - Vietnam, Pixabay
13.09.2024

Negative mood in the composites market

  • Critical assessment of the current business situation
  • Future expectations deteriorate
  • Investment climate remains subdued
  • Expectations for application industries vary
  • Growth drivers with little movement
  • Composites index points downwards

For the 23rd time, Composites Germany (www.composites-germany.de) has collected current key figures on the market for fiber-reinforced plastics. All member companies of the supporting associations of Composites Germany: AVK and Composites United as well as the associated partner VDMA were surveyed.

In order to ensure that the different surveys can be compared without any problems, no fundamental changes were made to the survey this half-year. Once again, mainly qualitative data was collected in relation to current and future market developments.

  • Critical assessment of the current business situation
  • Future expectations deteriorate
  • Investment climate remains subdued
  • Expectations for application industries vary
  • Growth drivers with little movement
  • Composites index points downwards

For the 23rd time, Composites Germany (www.composites-germany.de) has collected current key figures on the market for fiber-reinforced plastics. All member companies of the supporting associations of Composites Germany: AVK and Composites United as well as the associated partner VDMA were surveyed.

In order to ensure that the different surveys can be compared without any problems, no fundamental changes were made to the survey this half-year. Once again, mainly qualitative data was collected in relation to current and future market developments.

Critical assessment of the current business situation
After the assessment of the current business situation was positive at a relatively stable level before the coronavirus crisis, the perception of the survey participants has now deteriorated significantly.       
 
With the exception of a few positive trends, the corresponding indicator has been pointing significantly downwards since 2022. There is still no sign of a trend reversal in the current survey. (see Fig. 1). The assessment of the general business situation is declining in all regions mentioned.

The reasons for the negative sentiment are manifold and were already evident in the previous surveys. High energy, raw material and logistics costs remain a major burden, especially for German industry, but also for many other countries in Europe. This is compounded by a weakening global economy and weak sales for many products in Asia. Massive competition to European products is growing there, particularly in terms of raw materials, which is also partly due to overcapacity, which in turn is putting enormous pressure on prices for suppliers here. Political uncertainties, protectionist tendencies and armed conflicts, such as in Ukraine and recently increasingly in the Middle East, are further worsening the economic climate.

At present, politicians do not seem to be succeeding in creating an environment conducive to business. The composites market has already seen sharp declines in the last two years. The industry continues to send pessimistic signals for the current year. The industry was and is an important economic sector for Germany in particular. It is threatened with further decline if the appropriate regulatory framework is not created to enable competitive production. Germany is currently facing structural changes that are necessary, particularly in terms of economic policy and ecology. These necessary adjustments will take many years and require high levels of investment. It is urgently advisable to finally find a balance between the necessary burden on industry/companies on the one hand and corresponding relief on the other. If the decline of German and European industry continues, at some point it will become questionable who should finance the restructuring. Only a healthy economy, which includes a manufacturing industry, will be able to invest and finance the necessary measures.

This will not be possible for the state itself. Even an expansion of employment in the public sector, as has been pushed in recent months to compensate for job losses in industry, only superficially solves this problem. Healthy state financing is based on a healthy economy. Something urgently needs to be done about this - at the moment, we are digging at our own foundations.
It is not only the assessment of the general business situation that remains pessimistic. The situation of their own companies also continues to be viewed critically. The picture is particularly negative for Germany. Almost 70% of respondents are critical of the current business situation in Germany. The view of global business and Europe is somewhat more positive.
Here, “only” 46% and 54% of respondents respectively assess the situation rather negatively.

Future expectations are becoming gloomier
While the last survey showed rather positive assessments of future expectations, this picture is currently becoming much gloomier. When asked about their assessment of future business development in general, the figures are consistently negative. At present, the respondents do not seem to believe that the situation will improve.  

Respondents were also rather pessimistic about their own company's future expectations, although their expectations regarding their own market position worldwide were positive (see Fig. 3).
It is striking that the view of the German region in relation to Europe and the global economy has been more critical since 2022. 25% of respondents expect the general market situation in Germany to develop negatively.

Only 18% expect the current situation to improve. The figures for Europe and the rest of the world are significantly better.
Only 3% expect the global situation to deteriorate further. 19% expect the situation to improve.

Investment climate remains subdued
The current cautious assessment of the economic situation continues to have an impact on the investment climate.

While 22% of participants in the last survey still expected an increase in personnel capacity (survey 1/2023 = 40%), this figure currently stands at just 13%. In contrast, 33% even expect a decrease in the area of personnel.

The proportion of respondents planning to invest in machinery is also declining. While 56% were still assuming corresponding investments in the last survey, this figure has now fallen to 44%.

Different expectations of application industries
The composites market is characterized by a high degree of heterogeneity in terms of both materials and applications. In the survey, participants were asked to give their assessment of the market development of different core areas.

The expectations are extremely varied. The two most important application areas are the mobility and construction/infrastructure sectors. Both are currently undergoing major upheavals or are affected by declines, which is also clearly reflected in the survey. Growth is expected above all in the wind energy and aviation sectors.

There are generally few shifts here compared to the last survey.

Growth drivers with little movement
In terms of materials, the trend in the assessment of growth drivers is continuing. Whereas for a long time GRP was named as the material from which the main growth impetus for the composites sector is to be expected, the main impetus is now once again expected to come from CFRP or across all materials. The trend from the last survey is continuing here.

There is a slight regional shift. The main impetus for growth is expected to come from Asia and North America. However, the EU (except Germany) is also mentioned. Germany is seen less strongly as a growth driver and continues to lose ground.

Composites Index points downwards
The numerous negative influences of recent times continue to be reflected in the overall Composites Index. This is falling in all areas.
 
In the last two years, the European composites market has lost around 15% of its production volume. Even if not all areas are affected by declines to the same extent, this should be an alarm signal. Until the coronavirus pandemic, there was a continuous increase in production volume for many years. Since the end of the coronavirus crisis and with the increase in macroeconomic uncertainties, Europe and Germany in particular appear to be becoming less attractive as a business location. With production volumes increasing worldwide, Europe's market share is now steadily declining. There are many reasons for this and there are no simple solutions. However, if the industrial location is to remain secure, something has to change quickly. Once companies have moved away, it is difficult to bring them back.

It remains to be seen whether it will be possible to counteract this negative trend. Targeted intervention, including by political decision-makers, would be desirable here. However, this cannot succeed without industry/business. Only together will it be possible to maintain and strengthen Germany as a business/industry location. For composites as a material group in general, there are still very good opportunities to expand the market position in both new and existing markets due to the special portfolio of properties. However, the dependency on overall economic developments remains.

It is now important to develop new market areas through innovation, to consistently exploit opportunities and to work together to further implement composites in existing markets. This can often be achieved better together than alone. With its excellent network, Composi-tes Germany offers a wide range of opportunities.  

The next composites market survey will be published in February 2025.

Source:

Composites Germany

TheDigitalArtist, Pixabay
09.09.2024

“Used textiles recycling at risk of collapse”

The recycling of used textiles is facing a potential collapse. Industry experts agree that the current crisis is more serious than the COVID-19 crisis at the time.

In the case of Covid-19, there was a foreseeable period of a few months, after which the industry recovered quite quickly and the effect of pent-up demand caused prices to return to a normal level within a short period of time.
 
“We now have a completely different situation that threatens the existence of many of the established used textile recyclers in the industry,” says Stefan Voigt, Chairman of the bvse's Textile Recycling Association (FTR).
 
The global market for used textiles has been in a deep crisis for some time, which has now reached a level that can only be described as a free fall. Since the spring, the prices for original collected goods no longer cover the enormous costs for container provision, collection and administration.

The recycling of used textiles is facing a potential collapse. Industry experts agree that the current crisis is more serious than the COVID-19 crisis at the time.

In the case of Covid-19, there was a foreseeable period of a few months, after which the industry recovered quite quickly and the effect of pent-up demand caused prices to return to a normal level within a short period of time.
 
“We now have a completely different situation that threatens the existence of many of the established used textile recyclers in the industry,” says Stefan Voigt, Chairman of the bvse's Textile Recycling Association (FTR).
 
The global market for used textiles has been in a deep crisis for some time, which has now reached a level that can only be described as a free fall. Since the spring, the prices for original collected goods no longer cover the enormous costs for container provision, collection and administration.

The price of original goods traded on the market has now reached an all-time low, causing existential hardship for many market participants.

The sale of original and sorted goods has become almost impossible. The loss of established market players has destroyed supply chains that have been tried and tested for years, and stocks of original and sorted goods have reached unprecedented record levels. Some market participants are forced to replace the usual sales business with bartering.

According to industry information, downstream players in the recycling chain, such as shredding and spinning mills, are also under pressure and have made massive staff cuts. The production of cleaning cloths has also reached an all-time low. Due to the relocation of production abroad and reduced domestic production, demand for cleaning cloths has fallen and prices have slipped to a very low level.

Consumer behavior and international markets exacerbate the crisis
Due to the generally high cost burden on the population, the consumption of textiles has collapsed. The negative trend of consuming low-quality fast fashion is now being reinforced by ultra-fast fashion of even poorer quality. This has disastrous effects on value creation within the recycling chain for used textiles.

“During the sorting process, increasingly large quantities of relatively new textiles are being found that are already so defective that they are no longer suitable for further use and therefore have to be fed into the recycling process,” explains Voigt. However, there is no money to be made here either, as the same cost structures apply to this part of the original goods as to wearable goods and the recycling process is also very cost-intensive.

Industry calls for the introduction of an EPR system
Until now, the recycling of the proportion of sorted goods has been subsidised by the proceeds from wearable goods, but this system has not worked for some time. The industry is desperately waiting for the introduction of a national EPR system for textiles in order to stabilise costs.

The EU Commission's recently published draft of the revised EU Waste Framework Directive provides for the introduction of a system of extended producer responsibility for textiles. The existing collection and recycling structures in Germany, which enable the separate collection of used textiles close to the public, are to play a central role in this.

The draft of the National Circular Economy Strategy (NKWS) of the Federal Ministry for the Environment, Nature Conservation, Nuclear Safety and Consumer Protection (BMUV) also emphasises the importance of the national recycling industry for used textiles. Without it, the establishment of a closed-loop system for textiles would not be feasible.

Crisis not limited to Germany
The crisis has also made ripples internationally. Countries such as the Netherlands, traditionally the largest buyer of used textiles from Germany, have already addressed the crisis in the national media. Almost 250 companies there are involved in the collection, sorting and international marketing of used textiles.

Around 60 per cent of the original goods are recycled as sustainable clothing after sorting, meaning that the industry is reliant on stable markets in which recycling proceeds can be generated. But this is precisely the problem. ‘Due to the effects of the Russian war of aggression in Ukraine, the Eastern European market can only be served in fragments,’ explains Voigt.

In addition, despite its potential, the African market is currently facing enormous challenges because there is practically no money left in the system, he adds, explaining the concerns he receives from many interviewees in the industry: ‘The enormous drop in the value of many currencies in various African countries    means that it is becoming increasingly difficult for African customers to buy urgently needed second-hand clothing for hard currency,’ Voigt continues.

For example, the currency in the extremely important African market of Ghana has lost roughly 20 per cent against the euro over the last six months of 2024. In addition, the transfer of foreign currency now takes up to two months, meaning that it now takes up to six months to return the proceeds of realisation.

In addition, the African market is increasingly dominated by Chinese influence. ‘The actually better quality of high-quality used European second-hand clothing can hardly compete with new Asian goods,’ reports Voigt. Ultra fast fashion from China is flooding the market with extremely low prices, making it increasingly difficult to market sorted, second-hand clothing.

In addition to economic problems, there are also logistical challenges. ‘Our customers are reporting increasing difficulties in obtaining the necessary visas for a business visit to Europe within an acceptable waiting period,’ explains Voigt. The waiting time for an appointment at the consulate can currently be up to two months.

Call for short-term measures
In order to prevent the system from collapsing in the short term, Voigt believes that the usual remuneration structures for local authorities and providers of parking spaces for collection containers need to be reconsidered. ‘Recycling revenues have not been realised for some time now, so they can no longer be paid out or must be adjusted to the current situation,’ says Voigt.

The industry expects the current crisis to last even longer. ‘Not everyone will survive,’ predicts Voigt. Many collection areas are already being offered on the open market and various collection capacities are being cancelled without replacement. The future of the used textile recycling industry remains uncertain and there is no end to the crisis in sight.

More information:
textile waste textile recycling
Source:

bvse-Bundesverband Sekundärrohstoffe und Entsorgung e.V.

Texcare Messe Frankfurt (c) Messe Frankfurt
06.09.2024

Circular economy long established in the textile care industry

The professional rental service for linen and workwear is a textbook example of a circular, sustainable business model, which uses hard-wearing textiles instead of lower-quality or disposable products (reduce), optimises their useful life through professional care / repairs (reuse) and develops solutions to re-purpose them after they have reached the end of their useful life (recycle).

The professional rental service for linen and workwear is a textbook example of a circular, sustainable business model, which uses hard-wearing textiles instead of lower-quality or disposable products (reduce), optimises their useful life through professional care / repairs (reuse) and develops solutions to re-purpose them after they have reached the end of their useful life (recycle).

With its ‘Green Deal’, the European Commission has, inter alia, initiated the transformation of the garment-manufacturing industry from a business model of short-lived consumption to a more sustainable, circular system. By 2030, fast fashion will be replaced increasingly by textile products that have a longer life cycle and thus contribute to reducing environmental pollution. To achieve this goal, textiles must be more durable, reusable, repairable, fibre-to-fibre recyclable and have a greater proportion of recycled fibres. For the textile-service sector, the circularity requirements defined in Brussels have long been standard practice because hiring out professional workwear and protective clothing, as well as hotel and hospital linen, mop covers and other items, requires precisely these characteristics, i.e., the fabrics must be durable, washable – and therefore reusable – and easy to repair. Thanks to these qualities, rental linen can remain in the service cycle for a long time and has thus become established as a sustainable alternative to outright purchasing.

Laundry in the circular system
The textile-rental service offers a variety of systems tailored to the needs of different groups of customers. Workwear and protective clothing is stocked by textile-service laundries in a wide range of sizes, so that each customer's employees can be supplied with a suitable outfit. This is then labelled and made available to the individual wearer. If the employee leaves the customer's employ, the garments are taken back and – provided they are in good condition – reused as replacement clothing. In the case of workwear in the healthcare sector, as well as bed linen, table linen and towelling, a pool solution is more common. A laundry pool comprises similar textiles that are supplied without being assigned to a specific customer or wearer, which significantly reduces the quantity of textiles used.

Local textile cleaning is another major area of commercial textile care that also helps extend the life of textiles with a wide range of goods being professionally processed on behalf of private and commercial customers by such businesses. High-quality outerwear and underwear, premium home textiles, delicate down jackets or heavily soiled workwear are all restored to a clean, fresh and usable condition. And if stains prove particularly stubborn even after cleaning, a specialist company can re-colour the goods, thus ensuring they can be reused.

The recycling benefits of textile rental services
Besides the two main requirements of ‘reuse’ and ‘repair’, the sector is also working hard on the recycling of old textiles, as called for by the EU textile strategy. Several workwear manufacturers have developed their own returns models, whereby customers can hand back their old workwear when buying new items. The old workwear is then reused or recycled by partner organisations. Large companies, including Deutsche Telekom and Ikea, have also introduced a centralised returns and recycling system for discarded workwear. Indeed, the furniture giant has even created its own home textiles line using old workwear. However, the easiest way to implement a system of this kind is to use a rental service, as the goods are always returned to the specialist company and sorted there. In other words, the used laundry is collected in one place after washing, where it forms a large volume of similar discarded textiles, which greatly simplifies both the collection logistics and the recycling process. These favourable conditions have already led to the establishment of an initial initiative in which several textile service companies pool their waste hotel linen and channel it into industrial cotton-to-pulp recycling. Whether individual or joint initiatives, this is a testament to the industry's commitment to the development of solutions for ‘waste materials’.

Textile upcycling for designer items
Solutions for rejected textiles are more varied than simply recycling them. For example, Sweden's Fristads company offers a repair service for its workwear. The British department store chain John Lewis goes one step further. In a field trial, customers can hand in their garments to selected stores for cleaning and repair. The garments are processed by Johnsons, a laundry and dry-cleaning chain belonging to the Timpson Group. Designers have also recognised second-life opportunities for discarded workwear and contract textiles. For example, they apply elaborate decorations to items from their collections or take them apart and reassemble them. The creatively enhanced goods are then returned to the market as designer items. There are also recycling solutions for large contract textiles, which are converted into bags or cosmetic accessories or, after a colour-changing process, into small batches of aprons. However, the effect of such concepts on reducing textile waste is as small as their diversity. Only the established second-hand model is able to return larger quantities to the economic cycle.

The pros and cons of recycled materials
While the textile-care industry is unanimous in its support for the requirements of the EU textile strategy and is contributing solutions, it disagrees on increasing the proportion of recycled fibres in its products. Although there are already numerous workwear collections and hotel-linen ranges that meet the requirements from Brussels, some of the products do not, however, meet the durability requirements because the fibre quality deteriorates with each recycling stage. Therefore, many contract-textile manufacturers still rely exclusively on virgin, brand-new fibre materials to ensure durability in industrial laundering. Texcare International offers the industry the perfect setting to discuss this conflict of objectives in depth.

Source:

Messe Frankfurt