From the Sector

"Policy makers need to consider that global dimension."
 
EURATEX released its 2023 Spring Report, which analyses latest trade flows for textiles and clothing products.

In 2022, EU trade in textiles and clothing has exceeded, for the first time in history, the €200 billion mark. This record growth of total trade is mainly due to a sharp increase of clothing imports (+36,6% in value), especially from China and Bangladesh, which outweighs Europe’s positive export performance. As a result, the EU’s trade deficit in textiles and clothing has increased to €70 billion, which is 48% higher than the year before.

Such a growing deficit is a cause for concern; the objective of the EU’s Industrial Strategy to strengthen resilience and “strategic autonomy” is not happening. Instead, the dependency has increased, and becomes critical in certain raw materials and fibres.

It also challenges the Commission’s ambition is to promote – and prevail – high quality and sustainable textile products on the Single Market – regardless where they have been produced. With imports now reaching €140 billion, it will be a challenge to effectively control the quality and compliance over these imports. Market surveillance will need to be stepped up massively, without becoming a barrier to trade.

The efforts on the EU’s export performance need to be strengthened, so as to rebalance the European trade relations with the rest of the world. EU companies are world leader in high end fashion products and in technical textiles. More needs to be done to support their activities in established markets but also emerging economies. For instance, the ongoing FTA negotiations with India should focus on improving market access and ensure “fair” competition with local companies.

The EURATEX Spring Report highlights significant differences between trade in value and in volume. EU’s export of textile products has increased by 13% in value, but actually dropped by nearly 7% in volume. This obviously reflects the very high inflation figures from last year, caused initially by the rising energy prices and changing central bank policies. This in turn leads to uncertainty with the consumer, resulting in low demand and gloomy prospects for the entire value chain.

Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented on these latest figures: “This report confirms once again that “textiles” is one of the most globalised sectors of the European economy, and hence the importance of taking that global dimension into account, when designing EU and national policies. Failing to do so may have a devastating effect on the global competitiveness of the European textile industry.

Looking forward, he added: “It is essential to stabilise inflation, restore consumer confidence and ensure a level playing field for all operators in the textile industry. On that basis, European companies can prosper and offer quality jobs to 1.3 million workers”.

With the short slogan ‘NOW’ INNATEX, which takes place from 29 to 31 July 2023 at the Exhibition Centre in Hofheim-Wallau, enters the summer season. The 52nd International Trade Fair for Sustainable Fashion close to Frankfurt am Main is using the slogan to express the urgent need for a sustainable transformation in the fashion industry.

Lounge Area with new themes and collaboration partners
Alongside its well established and constructive partnerships with, for example, the Hessen Retail Federation and Mirjam Smend of Greenstyle Munich and Pureviu, the organisers MUVEO GmbH have entered into a new collaboration agreement with Fashion Changers. The two heads behind this Berlin-based initiative, Nina Lorenzen and Vreni Jäckle, will be holding and moderating two Lounge Talks on the Saturday. On the Sunday and Monday, the other partners will be contributing to the programme with additional experts.

“We are currently discussing several themes for the Lounge Talks, such as size inclusivity and branding strategies for fashion businesses in the digital age,” says Alexander Hitzel, Project Manager for INNATEX. “The new Community Lounge, which brings together the Talks, DESIGN DISCOVERIES and information stands with experts, first appeared in the winter. We still shan’t be putting together a non-stop programme, though, because as an ordering fair INNATEX continues to focus on concentrated working.”

Green Fashion is NOW: Creativity and mood of optimism in the industry
In the community, Hitzel says he perceives an attitude that is far from lethargic, due to the recent crisis-laden years. Among the 220+ exhibitors, several are expanding or even doubling their stand areas. Some labels are announcing entirely new lines as part of their market response. And even traditional textile producers are revealing fresher looks, getting into discussions with suppliers and testing new materials.

“We are excited about the summer fair, because we are already noting an extraordinary degree of creativity and dynamism – which is good!” comments Hitzel. “We need a sustainable counterweight to ultra-fast fashion more than ever.”

Newcomers and labels exhibiting for the first time still have until 1 June 2023 to apply to be DESIGN DISCOVERIES.

Klaus Steger (64), CEO of ERWO Holding AG (“ERWO Holding”) and Hoftex Group AG (“Hoftex Group”), will step down from the Management Board of both companies at the beginning of 2024 in accordance with internal policies of the family and the company regarding the retirement age. Already on June 30, 2023, ERWO Holding Management Board member Hans-Georg von Schuh will retire as planned. ERWO Holding Management Board member Manfred Heinrich will also leave the Board as planned at this time and will continue to hold his mandate as one of the managing directors in the Südwolle Group together with Stéphane Thouvay and Johannes Rauch.

Steger’s designated successor as CEO of both companies is Manuela Spörl (50), currently CFO of ERWO Holding and also CFO of Hoftex Group. Hoftex Group is a group of medium-sized companies in the textile industry, in which ERWO Holding holds a significant stake. In addition, ERWO Holding acts as the parent company of the Südwolle Group, in which the Group’s worsted yarn activities are bundled.

Spörl has a degree in business administration and has been working for Hoftex Group since 2000. Her professional career began in the Corporate Controlling department, and in 2012 she was appointed as an advisor to the Board of Management. She was granted power of attorney in 2015, followed by appointments as CFO of the Hoftex Group in 2020 and CFO of the ERWO Group in 2022. A search for a successor for Spörl in the position of CFO of the Hoftex Group and, subsequently, of ERWO Holding is currently underway. Until the new CFO takes office, the two members of the Management Board, together with the Supervisory Board, will ensure an orderly transition.

The announced change in the Management Board of ERWO Holding, which acts as the parent company of the Südwolle Group, also ensures continuity at the leading manufacturer of worsted yarns for weaving, circular and flat knitting products in pure wool and wool blends. In the future, the management of Südwolle Group will continue to consist of the longstanding members Manfred Heinrich (Technology, Production & Planning), Johannes Rauch (Finance & Controlling) and Stéphane Thouvay (Sales & Marketing and Product Management & Innovation). Together with the designated board member of the parent company ERWO Holding, they will continue the successful development of the Südwolle Group from a mere supplier to a strategic partner of its customers as well as the growth trend of recent years.

The founding family Steger remains involved in the various supervisory bodies of the group of companies and will continue to work closely with them as the sole shareholder of ERWO Holding.

Mimaki Europe wird auf der ITMA 2023 (8.-14. Juni 2023 Fiera Milano RHO, Mailand, Italien) seine auf Nachhaltigkeit und Kreislaufwirtschaft ausgerichteten Lösungen vorstellen. Neben der Präsentation neuer Drucker wird Mimaki auf der Messe auch seine internationalen Kooperationen im Designbereich hervorheben.

Nachhaltigkeit und Kreislaufwirtschaft sind heute für alle Unternehmen von entscheidender Bedeutung. Im Rahmen der Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) der Vereinten Nationen wird Mimaki auf der ITMA 2023 vollständig wasserlose digitale Lösungen für den Textildruck vorstellen, darunter Direct-to-Film- und Sublimationsdrucker.

Auf der Messe wird Mimaki seine neueste Lösung für das Segment der veredelten Bekleidung, den vor kurzem angekündigten Direct-to-Film (DTF) Inkjet-Drucker TxF150-75 vorstellen. Der Drucker, der ein auf Hitze basiertes Transferverfahren verwendet, eignet sich zur Herstellung hochwertiger, individualisierter Merchandising-Artikel, (Sport)bekleidung und anderer textiler Werbeträger.

Anwender, die ihren Textildruck ausweiten möchten, können am Stand von Mimaki den volumenstarken Sublimationsdrucker TS330-1600 erleben. TS330-1600, der mit einer 10kg-Tintenversorgungseinheit und einem verbesserten Einzugsmechanismus ausgestattet ist, hat eine maximale Druckgeschwindigkeit von 135m² /h und kann mit fluoreszierenden Tinten drucken, sodass sich Benutzer jetzt noch mehr Anwendungen erschließen können.

Auf der ITMA 2023 werden mehrere neue Modelle, darunter ein neuer Textildrucker, zu sehen sein, die auf dem bestehenden, branchenführenden Portfolio des Unternehmens und den Nachhaltigkeitsanforderungen des Sektors aufbauen. Die Textildrucker von Mimaki zeichnen sich durch eine hohe Druckleistung aus und basieren auf fortschrittlicher Technologie.

Am Stand des Unternehmens werden Kooperationen mit Designern aus aller Welt, darunter aus den USA, Australien und Italien, zu sehen sein, die Mimakis nachhaltige Drucklösungen eingesetzt haben. Als Teil der Zukunftsvision des Unternehmens arbeitet Mimaki mit solchen Künstlern zusammen, um sich neue Perspektiven zu erschließen und nah am Puls der Märkte und ihrer Bedürfnisse zu bleiben.

• 1Q23 Performance Summary
• Revenue of US$4B, an increase of 3% QoQ and a decline of 9% YoY
• Reported EBITDA of US$301M, an increase of 269% QoQ and decrease of 62% YOY
• Operating cash flows of US$201M
• Net Operating Debt to Equity of 1.00x
• Reported EPS of THB 0.14

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical producer, reported improved quarterly earnings as headwinds continue to ease from the previous quarter’s peaks, although still below normalized levels. The company continues to focus on enhancing its global competitiveness as the full benefit of China’s reopening spurs volumes through the year, and as volatile energy costs and the destocking trend by customers begin to normalize.

Indorama Ventures achieved Reported EBITDA of $301 million in 1Q23, an increase of 269% QoQ and a decline of 62% YoY. Sales volumes dropped 8% YoY amid the heavy destocking trend that is impacting the chemical industry globally, although volumes rose 5% QoQ as the pace of destocking begins to slow from the peak in 4Q22. With China reopening from pandemic lockdowns and economic activity increasing, there has been marginal improvement in benchmark spreads, albeit below historical levels. In Europe, the warmer-than-expected winter contributed to lower energy prices and alleviated the cost pressures faced last year.

The Group reported an overall decline in Q1 earnings on a year-on-year basis as continued destocking by customers kept sales volumes below consumer consumption levels. CPET posted Reported EBITDA of $142 million, a 74% decrease YoY as sales volumes dropped 9%. Fibers segment achieved Reported EBITDA of $32 million, a decrease of 69% YoY as all three verticals reported declining sales. Integrated Oxides and Derivatives (IOD) segment posted a 4.4% growth in YoY Reported EBITDA to $128 million as volumes rose 4.4% YoY.

• Carbios has developed an ultra-high throughput microfluidic screening of PET-depolymerizing enzymes in partnership with the Paul Pascal Research Center^[1], a joint research unit of the CNRS^[2] and the University of Bordeaux
• Microfluidics enables millions of enzymes to be screened in a day, compared with a few thousand a week with conventional technologies
• Future polymers of interest will benefit from this acceleration of the R&D phase, enabling Carbios to develop its portfolio of innovations on different types of plastic more rapidly

Carbios has accelerated its enzyme screening process with a microfluidic technology developed in partnership with the Paul Pascal Research Centre (a joint research unit of the CNRS and the University of Bordeaux, which specializes in microfluidics). This technology enables the screening of millions of enzymes in just one day, speeding up the process to optimize enzymes breaking down PET. This competitive advantage enables Carbios to reduce the time between the R&D phase and the production of its proprietary enzymes, and therefore to develop concrete solutions to plastic pollution even faster.

Microfluidics
Microfluidics allows the production of devices handling very small amounts of liquid. Each droplet generated can be considered as an independent microreactor having a volume in the picoliter range (10-12 liters) and containing a particular enzyme whose PET depolymerization activity will be screened. These droplets move through analysis units the size of a microchip allowing ultra-high throughput screening of 150 enzymes per second.

Previously, conventional robotic systems allowed screening in microplate format with a volume in the milliliter range (10-3 liters) and with rates of around one enzyme per minute.

The use of microfluidics to screen for more efficient or new enzymes will become widely adopted in the coming years, therefore accelerating the development of bioprocessing. Currently used by Carbios for the development of its PET depolymerization process, microfluidics should be used to accelerate the development of new enzymes for other types of plastic such as polyamide.

Carbios researchers specialized in microfluidics
Microfluidic processes require special expertise. At present, two researchers at Carbios are dedicated to microfluidics and based in the cooperative laboratory with TBI^[3] hosted by INSA^[4] Toulouse.  Alexandra Tauzin, Researcher in Enzyme Engineering and Microfluidics, and Alexandre Gilles, Engineer specialized in robotics, work in partnership with the Paul Pascal Research Center.

^[1] Centre de Recherche Paul Pascal (CRPP)
^[2] Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) = National Center for Scientific Research
^[3] Toulouse Biotechnology Institute
^[4] National Institute of Applied Sciences

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK will be exhibiting at ITMA 2023, taking place between 8-14 June Milan, Italy. FET has commissioned its biggest ever stand to reflect the company’s commitment to this event and the textile industry.

FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a wide range of high value textile material applications worldwide. Central to FET’s success has always been its ability to provide customers with advanced facilities and equipment, together with unrivalled knowledge and expertise in research and production techniques.

The new FET Fibre Development Centre will further improve this service, allowing clients to trial their own products in an ideal environment. Resident equipment in the Fibre Development Centre reflects the wide range of fibre extrusion systems offered by FET to clients worldwide and will enable continued growth of the company through innovation.  

For the first time at ITMA, the new FET Spunbond range will feature. This system provides opportunities for the scaled development of new nonwoven fabrics based on a wide range of fibres and polymers, including bicomponents. Recent customers to benefit from FET spunbond systems include the University of Leeds and an integrated metlblown / spunbond system at the University of Erlangen-Nuremberg in Germany.

FET’s established expertise remains in laboratory and pilot meltspinning equipment for a vast range of applications, such as precursor materials used in high value technical textiles, sportswear, medical devices and specialised novel fibres from exotic and difficult to process polymers. FET has successfully processed almost 30 different polymer types in multifilament, monofilament and non-woven formats, collaborating with specialist companies worldwide to promote greater sustainability through innovative manufacturing processes. Where melt spinning solutions are not suitable, FET provides a viable alternative with pilot and small scale production wet spinning systems.

A major theme at ITMA will again be sustainability. The FET range of laboratory and pilot extrusion lines is ideally suited for both process and end product development of sustainable materials. “This year we are celebrating FET’s 25th anniversary” says FET Managing Director Richard Slack “and we look forward to meeting customers at ITMA, where we can discuss their fibre technology needs.”

Stahl announces that its near-term greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions reduction targets have been validated by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi). Stahl is one of the few coatings companies to receive this validation. To date, 145 companies in the chemicals sector have submitted an emissions reduction target to the SBTi, of which 61 have had their targets validated.

Stahl’s science-based targets, which reflect the company’s commitment to the 2015 Paris Agreement goals, are:  

• Stahl Holdings B.V. commits to reduce absolute scope 1 & 2 GHG emissions 42.0% by CY2030 from a CY2021 base year.*
• Stahl Holdings B.V. commits to reduce absolute scope 3 GHG emissions 25.0% by CY2030 from a CY2021 base year.

The SBTi classifies emissions reduction targets according to two potential temperature pathways: 1) limiting global temperature rises to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels, and 2) limiting temperature rises to well below 2°C. The SBTi has determined that Stahl’s Scope 1 and 2 target is in line with a 1.5°C trajectory, while Stahl’s Scope 3 target has been validated in line with the well-below 2°C pathway.

Maarten Heijbroek, CEO of Stahl: “The validation of our Scope 1, 2, and 3 emissions reduction targets by the SBTi is an important milestone on our ESG journey as we strive to limit our contribution to global warming, in line with the Paris Agreement. Our targets are ambitious, and rightly so. Realizing our goal to help create a more responsible coatings value chain starts with being accountable for our own environmental impact, and taking concrete steps to reduce our emissions wherever possible.”

A clear strategy to reduce GHG emissions
Stahl’s approach to realizing its near-term emissions reduction targets is outlined in the company’s Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) Roadmap to 2030. This strategy defines the specific metrics against which progress on the company’s ESG commitments will be measured.

Stahl’s Scope 1 and 2 GHG emissions reduction targets, as submitted to the SBTi, cover emissions from all manufacturing sites where Stahl products are produced, as well as the company’s largest non-manufacturing locations. Stahl aims to lower these emissions by reducing its overall energy consumption and increasing the use of renewable energy at its sites. To achieve this, the company plans to increase its self-generated electricity capacity (using solar power, for example) and continue investing in more energy-efficient equipment.

Stahl plans to reduce its Scope 3 upstream emissions primarily by replacing fossil-based raw materials in its products with renewable alternatives, such as bio-based and recycled-based feedstocks. In addition, the company plans to introduce more low-impact raw materials into its product design.

* The target boundary includes biogenic land-related emissions and removals from bioenergy feedstocks.

At ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 8-14, Fong’s Europe will introduce its latest THEN Synergy Airflow and THEN Airjetwin machines, which exploit the principle to provide high-quality, efficient and eco-friendly dyeing processes for a variety of fabrics.

“THEN introduced its first machines with Airflow technology in 1980 and since then we have had wide experience of pretreating and dyeing with Airflow transport systems on all kind of fabrics,” says Fong’s Europe Director of Sales and Marketing Richard Fander. “Our team of engineers has collected data on dyeing processes, results and consumption figures for years and constantly makes use of this accumulated know-how to optimise the processes of our customers.

“The THEN team understands Airflow dyeing processes and technology based on it guarantees the lowest liquor ratio on round shape machines. The transport of fabric by air reduces the liquor ratio compared to every kind of hydraulically driven transport system.”

He adds that while not every fabric can be dyed and treated on Airflow machines with the same handle and appearance as on hydraulic round shape or long shape machines, where it is applicable, it can lead to significant savings of up to 35% in water, 50% in salt, 20% in dyestuffs and 30% in process time.

The THEN Airflow dyeing machines have several features, including several parallel functions for reducing process time. The VPR system shortens the rinsing time and water usage and the robust and homogeneous spraying device in the nozzle ensures a uniform dyeing in the shortest process time. The very short liquor ratio also reduces the use of salt and chemicals.

Renewcell is the recepient of the Fast Company 2023 World Changing Ideas Awards for the Sustainability/Energy category with the development of recycling unused textiles into pulp, branded as CIRCULOSE®, used for man-made cellulosic fiber production of viscose, modal, lyocell, acetate and other fibers. Additionally Renewcell is recognized as a finalist in the Europe, the Middle East, and Africa category, as well as a finalist in the climate category for the 2023 World Changing Ideas Awards.

World Changing Ideas Awards honor sustainable designs, innovative products, bold social initiatives, and other creative projects that are changing the way we work, live, and interact with the world.

This year’s World Changing Ideas Awards showcase 45 winners, 216 finalists, and more than 300 honorable mentions—with health, climate, energy, and AI among the most popular categories. A panel of Fast Company editors and reporters selected winners and finalists from a pool of more than 2,200 entries across urban design, education, nature, politics, technology, corporate social responsibility, and more. Several new categories were added this year including rapid response, crypto and blockchain, agriculture, and workplace. The 2023 awards feature entries from across the globe, from Italy to Singapore to New Zealand. Fast Company’s Spring 2023 issue (on newsstands May 9, 2023) will showcase some of the world’s most inventive entrepreneurs and forward-thinking companies that are actively tackling global challenges.