From the Sector

Neumünster – Success is built by connecting the right people with the right product. In a global marketplace, this means collaboration is just as important as competition. Companies need to focus on their strengths, while finding practical ways to innovate and expand upon their capabilities.

An exclusive license from Procter & Gamble offers the best for nonwovens

In order to do so, working together often makes the most sense. This is what motivated Procter & Gamble and Oerlikon Nonwoven – Teknoweb Materials to agree on an exclusive license agreement to market and sell the Phantom platform worldwide.

The patented process for hybrid nonwovens combines the best of both airlaid and spunmelt technologies to deliver new, flexible ways of creating wet and dry wipes. Phantom technology offers additional benefits by reducing resources and cost, while increasing overall performance. The exclusive license gives Oerlikon Nonwoven – Teknoweb Materials distribute this technology worldwide. In addition, Oerlikon Nonwoven – Teknoweb Materials have further refined the process into their own Levra technology – an entry-level option which offers tailored production volumes with lower investment costs but is still suitable to be upgraded to the premium Phantom model in the future.

Quality products that cost less

Essentially, Phantom technology was developed to produce hybrid substrates. The spunmelt and airlaid processes are merged into one step to combine cellulose fibers, long fibers such as cotton, or even powders with polymer fibers in unprecedented ways. This technology has clear advantages in terms of resources, performance, and cost compared to the previous processes on the market. By removing hydroentanglement, it is no longer necessary to dry the material. Adjusting the process can optimize relevant product characteristics such as softness, strength, dirt absorption, and liquid absorption. In the end, this even increases the quality of the product itself.

The greater freedom for formulating continuous and discrete fibers allows for more flexible and absorbent structures and highly textured materials. Wipes feel softer to the touch while providing more protection for the hands. Up to 90% of the material can consist of pulp fibers, although natural alternatives like cotton or synthetic fibers can be added to the mix.

Phantom technology has not only found a practical application in a variety of wipes – such as hygiene wipes, anti-bacterial wipes, surgical wipes, or industrial wipes – but also in absorbent cores, for instance indiapers or fempro products. With so many applications, Oerlikon Nonwoven – Teknoweb Materials are fully prepared to deliver Procter & Gamble’s innovative Phantom technology to the global nonwovens market.

With zwissCLEAN® masks, zwissTEX is a pioneer among manufacturers of antiviral and antibacterial oronasal masks. Unlike conventional models they actively and highly effectively eliminate viruses and bacteria thanks to the latest textile technologies. This is made possible by an environmentally friendly finishing that foregoes the use of silver and zinc. "The formula physically interrupts the cell membrane of the viruses and bacteria - so no development of resistance is possible. In this way 99.9 percent of viruses and bacteria are eliminated within a very short time," says Maximilian Schönfließ - Business Development Manager of zwissTEX.

The zwissCLEAN MASK BASIC is particularly suitable when a mask is to be worn over a longer period of time - whether for school, concerts, trade fair visits or air travel. "The special feature of our zwissCLEAN MASK BASIC is that it can be worn for up to 12 hours without any problems due to the breathable material", says Schönfließ. "With it even sleeping is possible. And unlike disposable masks it can be washed up to 10 times at 30 degrees. Disposal by type is also possible".

The zwissCLEAN MASK COMFORT is recommended for daily protection at shopping, on public transport, at business appointments or similar events. It consists of a three-layer structure and combines efficient antiviral protection with long-term wearing comfort. The outer material and the integrated fleece promote protection against viruses and bacteria. The lower material made of organic cotton guarantees a lasting pleasant feeling on the skin. The mask can be washed up to 30 times, thus replacing up to 210 disposable masks and saving resources sustainably.

• World Cotton Day on 7 October Highlights the Importance of Cotton for Development Policy

Bremen - Stemming from a 2019 initiative of the African Cotton-4 countries Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad and Mali, World Cotton Day will take place this year on 7 October. The event is organised by the Geneva-based World Trade Organisation (WTO) and is supported by the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations (FAO), the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), the International Trade Centre (ITC) and the International Cotton Secretariat (ICAC). The Bremen Cotton Exchange is also involved.

“Cotton is often underestimated because it is so natural. Behind it are millions of people, for example many farmers, field workers, employees in ginning factories, logistics providers and traders. We want to honour their achievements,” said the President of the Bremen Cotton Exchange, Stephanie Silber.

According to the WTO, the aim of World Cotton Day is to highlight the global economic importance of cotton and to raise awareness of the raw material by recognising the work of everyone involved in its cultivation, processing and trade. At the same time, within the framework of international cooperation, it is hoped that supporters and investors can be found to aid with technological and economic progress within the cotton value chain.

This time, the entire world cotton community will be involved in World Cotton Day on Wednesday, 7 October 2020. A wide variety of campaigns and events are taking place everywhere to draw attention to the importance of cotton and its possible uses.

Cotton is one of the most relevant agricultural raw materials in the world. Around 26 million tonnes of it are harvested annually. Approximately 150 million people in almost 80 countries around the world live from the cultivation of the natural fibre. A large number of these live in developing countries, where cotton cultivation is of particular importance as a cash crop.

Cotton is known as an agricultural product that is turned into a textile. The raw material is indispensable in fashion and clothing – and has been for thousands of years. But the use of cotton now goes far beyond textiles. For example, cosmetic products such as hand creams and hair shampoo are made from the oil of cotton seeds. The raw material is also used in the manufacture of banknotes, furniture and technical textiles, as well as in medical technology.

Against the background of the current discussion on sustainability and sustainable consumption, the role of natural fibres is becoming even more important. Cotton is biodegradable and a renewable resource. It can be grown again and again in agriculture through cultivation in crop rotation. This secures incomes and enables efficient value creation within the global production and processing chain.

The Bremen Cotton Exchange will actively support World Cotton Day with cross-media coverage. In addition, in time for World Cotton Day, three thematically different, emotionally appealing short films about cotton will be launched. They are aimed at consumers as customers of the textile and clothing trade and provide information about the benefits and properties of cotton and answer questions about its sustainability. In keeping with the times, they will be published via virtual media.

• Gorilla Protect is a new company formed in May this year to promote the Catus face mask – a major leap forward in the effectiveness of personal protection products that are available to consumers in the fight against Covid-19.
• Behind Catus and the new company is Nova Textil, the established fabric finishing company based in Grefrath, Germany, and now run by father and son team Rainer and Oliver Hurtz.

Single stenter

Rainer Hurtz founded Nova Textil with a single Monforts Montex stenter and just five employees in 1999 and has steered its constant development and growth over the past twenty years.

“Our initial focus was on the coating of mainly glass fibre fabrics, awnings and sun protection products for outdoor furnishings,” he said. “We had a great customer who was providing us with so many orders that by 2005 we took the decision to order a second Montex stenter, in a special configuration. This also allowed us to enter the market for blackout and digital printing fabrics. We’ve had a great ongoing relationship with Monforts from the beginning.”

A third Montex stenter line was installed at the company’s Grefrath plant in 2015, by which time the company had grown to 40 people and a major new market had opened up in the supply of fabrics for promotional materials at exhibitions and trade shows.

“We had a fantastic two years in 2018 and 2019 and everything was going great for the first three months of this year, but in April it all came crashing down,” said Oliver Hurtz. “Coronavirus put an end to trade shows in 2020, which had a very serious impact on our business.”

At the same time, however, the company was exploring the potential of a new biocidal product from one of its chemicals suppliers which has both antiviral and antimicrobial properties.

Filtration

“We had already been producing coated fabrics for hot gas filtration and realised that in combination with this new microporous coating we had the basis for a very effective single-layer face mask,” Rainer said. “Achieving this with a single layer product rather than the usual three has resulted in a significant advance in comfort for the wearer and because the mask is able to disinfect itself and helps regulate humidity, it can be worn a number of times without needing to be washed, for greater convenience. It only needs to be washed when it gets dirty and can also be washed up to twenty times without losing its properties, which has to be preferable to single-use disposables.”

Catus face masks are based on 100% woven cotton and the active ingredients in the finish are a reaction mass of titanium dioxide and silver chloride certified to ISO 20743 for their antibacterial effect, and to ISO 18184 for their antiviral effect.

They are proven to  eliminate over  99.99% of the human coronavirus 229 E, with the multiplication of microorganisms such as germs and bacteria prevented by the biostatic action of silver salts and viruses destroyed by oxygen-releasing substances and a mechanism that attacks their fatty envelope. The virus membrane loses its cholesterol content and the virus is inactivated.

Colours

Gorilla Protect next plans to make the masks available in four colours – black, Bordeaux, olive and grey – and is also working on colour branding and printing labels.

“It’s not possible to print on the surface of the mask after it has been coated, but its is possible for volume orders to be printed before the treatment,” Oliver Hurtz said.

“Face masks are going to become an established part of life in the West like they are in Asia and need to be as comfortable and convenient as possible for the wearer,” his father concluded. “With these things in mind, we believe Catus is a significant step forward.”

At a total length of over 71 metres, the Montex finishing line that has just been installed by Monforts for Acafintex at its plant in Puebla, Mexico, is one of the highest capacity stenters the German technology leader has delivered to date.

Puebla is known as the epicentre of Mexico’s textile and clothing industry and is ideally placed for supplying both the USA and Europe, being three hours from the Gulf of Mexico for shipping via the Atlantic, and five hours from the Pacific coast as well.

Mexico's textile and clothing industry spans the entire production chain – from cotton growing and man-made fibre production to the manufacture of yarn, fabric, finished clothing and accessories. The industry is estimated to directly employ around 640,000 workers and to provide livelihoods for many more people indirectly. The country is a key supplier of textiles and clothing to the USA, but has faced fierce competition from China, which has until recently been the largest supplier of textiles and clothing to the US market.

However, the position of Mexico in the US import market has become more stable following the signing of the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA), which came into force in July this year. The country has also been a key beneficiary of the current trade war that is raging between China and the USA.

In addition, there is scope for higher sales in Mexico’s domestic market. The country has a population of 129 million people who are becoming increasingly prosperous, with a large proportion of younger people who are spending more on clothing.

Flexible operation

Founded in 1986, family-owned Acafintex operates as a commission dyehouse, finishing both knitted and woven fabrics for local companies in Mexico, in widths of between 100cm to 3.6 metres. The company is run by father and son team Don Francisco and Lic Francisco Moyano.

“We have very flexible operations for fabric finishing and also produce and sell our own fabrics for both the fashion industry and for the uniforms market,” says Don Francisco. “These days, we are increasingly finishing materials for technical textiles and for the automotive industry too. We have both local and international suppliers of both yarns and base fabrics and make sure we choose the best and most reliable sources. Exports now account for over 40% of our sales.”

European contract

With a  width of 3.8 metres, the new Monforts Montex line at Acafintex is equipped with no less than 12 double TwinAir drying chambers to meet the requirements of specific technical textiles to a European customer, in a contract secured following the company’s ISO 9001 certification in 2019. The line is equipped with an integrated heat recovery system and also benefits from an exhaust air cleaning system to ensure the most resource-efficient processing available on the market.

On the Monforts TwinAir system, the airflows above and below the fabric being dried can be regulated completely independently of each other, with Optiscan Auto-Balance fully controlling the distance between the fabric and the dryer nozzles via variable-frequency fan motors and CCD chip evaluation. As a result, the evaporation rate of the stenter and its energy utilisation are always fully optimised. Contact-free drying eliminates the possibility of fabric marking or stitch draft.

Highly-intuitive Monforts Qualitex visualisation software allows all machine functions and process parameters to be assessed and controlled easily, and thousands of article specific settings and formulations to be called up at any time – with 100% reproducible results.

In combination with an existing Montex stenter, the new line has expanded finishing capacity at Acafintex to an annual 20 million linear metres.

Modifications

“From the installation to the start-up, we were supported by a team of Monforts technicians and local representative Arnulf Thaler at Sattex here in Mexico,” says Lic Francisco. “Of course, every installation has its challenges and with such big machines we needed to modify several things inside the factory and also required certain modifications from Monforts which were all carried out successfully.”  

Forced, like much of the textile industry globally, to temporarily suspend operations at the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, Acafintex is now back to full production, having installed the necessary safety measures for its employees, and is anticipating a bright future.

“We are passionate about developing new materials in search of mutual benefit for both our clients and suppliers, as well as our own workforce and the environment,” Don Francisco Moyano concludes. “Investment in the latest technology like this new Monforts line plays a key role in helping us achieve our long-term goals.”

• Collaboration Between DuPont™ Sorona® and Sateri’s EcoCosy®

DuPont™ Sorona® and Sateri’s EcoCosy® have together developed a new fabric called StretchCosy™. The fabric uses a blend of Sorona®, a partially plant-based fibre, and Sateri’s ultra-comfortable and near weightless EcoCosy® fibres to achieve a soft material that is highly stretchable, shape-retaining and, most importantly, sustainably sourced.

StretchCosy™ combines the mechanical stretch of Sorona® stretch fibres, which gives it excellent stretch and long-lasting, consistent recovery, with the soft, cotton-like breathability and smooth silk-like texture of EcoCosy® for an unparalleled fabric that is high-performing and well-suited for fashion and sportswear.

Created in 2019, StretchCosy™ is a fabric breakthrough that made it possible for natural plant-based fibres to be more extensively used in various applications, e.g. t-shirts, shirting, bottoms, jackets, dresses, hoodies and underwear. Previously, cellulosic fibres were rarely found in sportswear, due to concerns such as pilling. The combination of Sorona® and EcoCosy® in StretchCosy™ has eliminated this concern, hinting at the future of activewear where performance combined with sustainability will be the norm.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that the 4,320 color references of its Color Atlas library have been selected by Shima Seiki and integrated into their ‘SDS-ONE APEX’ series of software for the design, planning and virtual sampling of textile and apparel.

Shima Seiki is a leading provider of digitally optimized solutions for the fashion industry, who combines its on-demand ‘WHOLEGARMENT’ knitting machine with realistic virtual sampling. Based on actual yarn data, fabric simulations generated on the SDS-ONE APEX-series are unparalleled in quality and realism. Design and simulation are available for knits and various other textile applications, and smooth transition to machine programming is possible for quick and accurate design-to-manufacture interface.

That is where the Color Atlas by Archroma® will considerably benefit to the users of Shima Seiki’s solutions.

The Color Atlas was launched in 2016 to provide fashion designers and stylists with off-the-shelf color inspiration that can be implemented in production with just a few clicks.

The Color Atlas continues to evolve in line with Archroma’s commitment to sustainability through innovation. The company describes it as “The Archroma Way to a sustainable world: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. All color references available in the Color Atlas have been formulated with products that comply with leading international eco-standards, and can be selected based on the desired sustainability profile.

Today, the Color Atlas contains 4,320 colors applicable on cotton poplin, almost the double compared to similar tools available to textile and fashion specialists. Technical support is available to designer, manufacturers, as well as brands and retailers, through Archroma’s global offices - for every single color from its selection to its implementation in production. Engineered color standards empowered by NFC technology are also available for all colors and reproducible in production.

With this new collaboration, the users of the SDS-ONE APEX design software of Shima Seiki will have at their disposal 4320 colors that they can visualize, evaluate and implement, in a considerably accelerated process from the first creative idea to the production to the final outlet, whether online or in brick-and-mortar shops.

“Accurate color evaluation and communication are very important issues for design work”, explains Hideya Ohtani, General Manager, Graphic System Development Division, at Shima Seiki. “We have high expectations for Archroma's Color Atlas to help our APEX series users develop their products in an even more smooth and accurate manner.“

“We are proud to bring our Color Atlas library to the users of Shima Seiki’s extremely advanced design software,” says Chris Hipps, Head of Co lor Management Services, at the Archroma Brand Studio. “Designers and users of the software will have at their disposal not only color options they never had before but also colors that they can trust will be implementable right away. That’s what we strive to do at Archroma: create a new way of working: safe, efficient and enhanced. It’s our nature!”

• Kettelhack GmbH – a German leader in the dyeing and finishing of monochrome fabrics for high-quality and durable workwear and bed linen – has this year retired its existing Monforts sanforizing line after 35 years of daily service, replacing it with a new one.

The first line was installed in 1985 during a decisive time for the company.

Taking the helm in the early 1980s, Jan Kettelhack – the current CEO, owner and great grandson of Heinrich Kettelhack who founded the company back in 1874 – made a number of decisions that have secured its success over the following decades.

In 1982 Kettelhack had to vacate its existing plant in the city of Rheine due to urban development restrictions and despite a general sense of crisis in the European textile industry at that time, opted to relocate and build a new highly automated plant that was not reliant on mechanical and personnel-intensive processes. This was aligned with a greater focus on competitive international sales.

From 1986, the company’s proficiency as a specialist in solid-colour textiles led to workwear textiles becoming a bedrock of the business. Continuous investments in machinery and technical equipment have resulted in a fully integrated and rationalised single source site dedicated solely to what the company does best – the expert dyeing and finishing of textiles.

Crucial process steps

These stages in the textile value-added chain, Jan Kettelhack has observed, are crucial to the quality of a final product in workwear – whether it stands the test in everyday use, how comfortable it is, and how many washes it can withstand.

Central to this is the sanforizing process, which pre-shrinks a fabric by compressing it prior to washing. This limits any residual or further shrinkage in a made-up finished garment to less than 1%, to ensure perfect comfort and fit over an extended lifetime.

“We certainly can’t complain about the performance of the old Monfortex sanforizing line which gave us so many uninterrupted years of service, but certain spare parts for it were becoming increasingly hard to source, the control unit was becoming a little unstable and we couldn’t risk potential interruptions to our production schedule,” says Kettelhack plant manager Hendrik Pleimann. “In many ways, the new Monfortex sanforizer is much the same as the old one in terms of its mechanical reliability and robust construction, but of course today’s drives are much more efficient, and when it comes to the automation features and control units – and the data we can generate and analyse for increasing efficiency – that’s a whole new world.”

Qualitex 800

The two-metres-wide Monfortex line benefits from the latest Qualitex 800 control system which allows all parameters to be easily automated via the 24-inch colour touchscreen, including production speed, control of all fabric feed devices, rotation spray or steaming cylinder options, the width of the stretching field and the rubber belt pressure.

The integrated Compactomat system allows a continuous indication and control of the shrinkage values and the temperatures of the shrinking cylinder and felt calender. Up to 10,000 separate process parameter records can be generated and stored by the data manager.

Full line management can be optimised via the batch-specific calculation of all process material consumption and water and electricity use, with any standstill times analysed and immediately corrected for the future.

Any further assistance required is available via Monforts Teleservice, with direct connection to technicians and virtual access to machine analysis.

Professional

Commissioning of the new Monfortex line at Kettelhack commenced in January and it was fully operational in a relatively short time.

“This was a very professional installation provided by the Monforts team with whom we have a very good relationship dating back many years, and everyone knew what was required from both sides,” says Mr Pleimann. “Our operators have found the new line very user friendly and we are very pleased with how everything proceeded so smoothly. An unexpected benefit is that the new line is also a lot quieter, of course, which is something our operatives are appreciating.”

Key features of the Monfortex line are the proven fabric preparation, weft straightening and spreading units, prior to the compressive shrinkage machine with a 750mm shrinking cylinder, and a felt calender equipped with 2,000mm diameter drying cylinder. The line also features an integrated automatic grinding unit.

Customer service

Kettelhack is processing primarily cotton and polyester woven fabrics, with lyocell becoming increasingly popular in workwear for its softness and comfort.

As part of its customer service, the company stocks more than a million metres of grey fabric and at least 1.2 million metres of finished and rolled standard fabric in its warehouse at any one time, with a further 750,000 metres permanently in production.

While a significant cost, this commitment ensures Kettelhack customers can be fully flexible and rely on it as a partner.

“As a family-run company with around a hundred employees, Kettelhack operates very differently to bigger businesses which have to constantly consider their immediate quarterly profits,” Mr Pleimann concludes. “The thinking at Kettelhack is in terms of the next twenty years and ensuring that the business will be just as successful for the next generation as it is today. We also have a very flat organisational structure in which everyone is involved and takes an active part, which makes it a very nice place to work.”

• “the preciousfabric that naturally stretches without tricks”

Bemberg™ Natural Stretch, the ground-breakingprecious fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami s.r.l. is the 100% sustainable lining fabric created from a cutting-edge highly engineered process Specialized  in  the  creation  of linings for high quality menswear,   womenswear   and childrenwear,  Gianni  Crespi Foderami  s.r.l.has  teamed  up with Bemberg™, the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers by leading    materials manufacturer  Asahi  Kasei, to develop a precious 100% Bemberg™ lining with outstanding stretch performance  woven in its DNA.

Bemberg™ Natural    Stretch was   achieved   thanks   to the leading  Italian  manufacturer’s ability  to  vertically  set  up,  control,  engineer  and  design  a  whole  integrated  production process, ranging from sectional warping the shipment service.Bemberg™  Natural  Stretch  achieve  maximum  flexibility,  resistance,  and  comfort  without the use of elastomers and polyesters. How? The secret is in the process indeed.Elasticity is achieved thanks to a complex way of yarn twisting, weaving, and finishing.Bemberg™  yarns  are  smart,  responsible  and  high-tech.  Made  from  a  cotton  linter  bio-utility material,  the  natural  derived  source  does  not  deplete  forestry  resources. 

The company’s matchless, high-tech natural fibers are characterized by a unique touch and feel as well as unique performances such as moisture control and is antistatic.Bemberg™Natural Stretch: a smart solution for contemporary living.

Am 15. Juli 2020 ist das U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol in Kraft getreten. Der neue Dokumentationsprozess unterstützt die Nachverfolgbarkeit und Auswertung von Daten im Herstellprozess von U.S.-amerikanischer Baumwolle. Textilhersteller und Handel können dem U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol beitreten, einem neuen System für verantwortungsvoll angebaute Baumwolle, das in Übereinstimmung mit den UN-Nachhaltigkeitszielen Jahresvergleichsdaten in sechs Nachhaltigkeitskategorien liefert. Die neuartige Erhebung der Jahresvergleichsdaten ermöglicht Textilproduzenten und Handel, ihren Fortschritt in der Umsetzung der eigenen Nachhaltigkeitsverpflichtungen besser messbar zu machen.

Das U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol wurde speziell für das besondere Umfeld der Baumwoll-Massenproduktion in den Vereinigten Staaten konzipiert. Dabei soll es andere Nachhaltigkeits-Initiativen nicht ersetzen, sondern ergänzen.

Die neue Baumwoll-Dokumentation fördert und verifiziert die Fortschritte im Bereich Nachhaltigkeit durch sorgfältige Datenerfassung über die komplette Lieferkette – von den Anbaudaten bis in den Handel – und organisiert deren Validierung durch unabhängige Sachverständige. U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol setzt dabei auf die Zusammenarbeit mit den Organisationen „Field to Market, The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture“ und „Control Union Certifications North America“. Textilindustrie und Handel erhalten auf diese Weise nachverfolgbare Herkunftsdaten für die Baumwollprodukte ihrer Lieferketten. Mitglieder der Initiative haben Zugriff auf die aggregierten Jahresvergleichsdaten zu Wassereinsatz, Treibhausgas-Emissionen, Energieverbrauch, Kohlenstoffgehalt der Böden und Landnutzungseffizienz.

Im vergangenen Monat wurde U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol durch die gemeinnützige Organisation „Textile Exchange“ in die Liste der 36 bevorzugten Fasern und Materialien aufgenommen, an der mehr als 170 teilnehmende Textilproduzenten und Händler im Rahmen des Material Change Index-Programms ihre Einkaufsstrategien ausrichten.