Textination Newsline

• Closing Date 26 February 2017- full details at techtextil-student.com

The ‘Textile Structures for New Building’ competition for students is being held for the 14th time by Techtextil, International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens, and students of civil engineering, product design and related disciplines, as well as young professionals, are invited to enter their ideas for building with textiles or textile-reinforced materials. As in the past, the competition is sponsored by the international TensiNet network with cash prizes worth a total of € 8,000. The closing date for entries is 26 February 2017.

The scientific supervision remains in the hands of Prof Werner Sobek, Director of the Institute for Lightweight Structures and Conceptual Design (ILEK) of the University of Stuttgart. For the first time, the competition is partnered by Architonic, the leading online platform for architecture and design. The award-winning works will be on show for international exhibitors and visitors during the official presentation ceremony and in a special exhibition at Techtextil 2017 from 9 to 12 May 2017. The aim of the competition is to encourage innovative and practical examples of building with textiles or textile-reinforced materials, and to promote the interests of students and young professionals.

Information about the ‘Textile Structures for New Building 2017’ competition for students

Assignment

The competition covers all aspects of building with textiles and entrants are free to choose any subject of relevance to this. An important theme is ‘Suitability for reuse and recycling’. Both supervised and unsupervised projects will be accepted.

Jury

An independent, international jury of experts comprising renowned academics, architects (building with textiles) and engineers will judge the works submitted. The Chairman of the jury is Prof Werner Sobek.

Prizes

The winners will share prize money totalling € 8,000, sponsored by the TensiNet association. Awards will be given in the following categories: macro-architecture, micro-architecture, material innovations, the environment & ecology and composites & hybrid structures.

Further information and registration at techtextil-student.com

• "Explorations" presented as overarching trend theme
• Carlin International/Exalis present the trends for 2017/2018 as well as the design of the new "Theme Park"

Heimtextil 2017 invites us on a journey into the unknown, full of curiosities and fascination. With "Explorations", the "Theme Park" will provide exactly the right theme for Heimtextil from 10-13 January 2017. A first glimpse of the new furnishing trends for 2017/18 was presented by those responsible for organising the trade fair in a discussion session transmitted live across the world on 6 September 2016 at the Hotel Lindenberg in Frankfurt. Those present included Natalie Weinmann from the design agency Carlin International/Exalis, responsible for the conception and design of this year's "Theme Park". With Anne Marie Commandeur from the Stijlinstituut Amsterdam and Felix Diener from the design studio of the same name, additional members of the Heimtextil Trendtable also took part in the conference and gave their prognoses for textile interior design for the coming season.

The Heimtextil trend experts have examined the disciplines of retail, technology, hospitality, transport, work and home and made numerous new discoveries. Bearing in mind the key phrase “marketing decoding”, the book informs readers which new aspects could be of benefit for companies and their brands in future. Pioneering projects and start-up ideas are presented and creative suggestions and unconventional approaches offered. In doing so, the trend researchers are answering the ambitious call for exploration and the desire to tap into unknown worlds. Creative self-observation and the need to investigate and understand how people function also play an important role. "Based on the theme 'exploration', we have looked for materials, textures and elements to bring innovations to life. In doing so, we discovered fabrics that gave rise to surprising combinations when merged with other materials.

It is these nine fabrics from unknown worlds that captivate us. At the same time, the natural aspects reveal an unexpected sensuousness," explains Natalie Weinmann from the design agency Carlin International/Exalis. Both the new trend book that will be presented during the conference and the "Theme Park" at the trade fair invite visitors to carry out their own explorations and discover new production and marketing approaches. An initial overview of the statements provided by the trend researchers is already available online: background information is supplied and design projects presented at www.heimtextil-theme-park.com.

Trade fair highlight "Theme Park" in hall 6.0

As the world's largest specialist trade fair for home and contract textiles, Heimtextil functions as a barometer for trends and yardstick for quality textiles with excellent design and innovative functionality. This is why Messe Frankfurt got the Heimtextil trend underway in 1991 and has consistently expanded it ever since. Every year, a Trendtable with international members investigates the most important universal trends and supplies product developers, creative teams, furnishers and designers with valuable advice and reliable trend statements. At Heimtextil 2017, those responsible for organising the trade fair will continue the trend concept and implement the "Theme Park" as the central trend-related and inspirational area of Heimtextil in Hall 6.0. The conception and realisation of this showcase at the trade fair, as well as the design of the accompanying book and new website, will be managed by the French trend agency Carlin International under the leadership of Exalis from Berlin.

Heimtexil Theme Park "Explorations" – Trends 2017/2018 – an overview of the themes:

Virtual Explorations

Digital processes enable a new interpretation of transparency. Thanks to a mother-of-pearl-like shimmer, fabric is brought to life in a vibrant way. Films and silk are reminiscent of reflections in water thanks to dazzling holographic brilliance. Extravagant floral patterns, embroidery, jacquards and lace dominate and give rise to astonishing fascination. A new form of digital exoticism is born. Structures from cell organisms inspire and convey a new understanding of 3D. Organic-animal structures give technical materials a sensuous-poetic flexibility. Colours are lively and reminiscent of water.

Cultural Explorations

A new urban multiculturalism unfolds: various cultural influences merge to form a unique multinational in-culture. This transformation can also be seen in interiors. A focus on particular cultures is increasingly disappearing. Traditional techniques are being modernised and merged together, resulting in highly modern and luxurious modifications. Pigment colours merge with urban shades to form a universal ethnic look.

Planetary Exploration

In an unknown, interplanetary world, raw materials are used and the interior becomes a mineral itself. A new, magical brilliance is extracted from the materials, which are given protective characteristics. From this wealth of materials arise material extracts and textures hitherto unknown. New wipe techniques form fine structures of mineral-like delicacy. The principle of controlled chances leads to new kinds of shading. Deliberately voluminous materials are reminiscent of the surface of the moon and serve as soft, protective shells. The colour palette plays with light and dark and oscillates between bright white and ash-coloured tones.

Natural Explorations

The way to rediscovering urban aspects takes us through nature. The use of natural materials in industrial manufacturing processes is more contemporary now than ever before – not least out of respect for our planet. But this isn't enough: the interior is entering into a symbiosis with nature. Touch is dominated by natural fibre effects such as wood-like reliefs or bark structures. The materials make use of geometric elements in order to imitate the plant world. Details from the animal world are incorporated with the help of textures. This gives rise to camouflage patterns, both original and finished, from the animal and plant world. Intensive green tones mix with colours inspired by tree bark and earth.

Further information:

www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com

www.heimtextil-theme-park.com

Nowadays, the office is everywhere: in the car, in the train, at home and in the garden. Life and work flow into each other. This trend can be criticised, but one thing it cannot be is ignored. What can and can't be done with technology increasingly determines our work lives. We are always online and contactable everywhere. New solutions,  unusual ideas  and  innovative products are called for. ORGATEC, which takes place in Cologne from 25 to 29 October 2016, takes up this challenge. Long gone are the days when just desks, filing systems etc. were presented at the leading international trade fair for the modern working world. It is much more to do with work culture, work processes and work environments. And on a 260-square metre, specially dedicated area, design solutions will be presented on the subject of the kitchen and outside areas.

Under the banner "Design meets movement", two extraordinary outdoor solutions for working in the open air await visitors to ORGATEC. The aim is to merge aesthetic design with ergonomic functionality. The trade fair is being supported in this endeavour by Linak, one of the world's leading developers and manufacturers of linear actuator systems for various applications in the hospital and care sector, the furniture industry and in the industrial sector. "It's not about us showing Linak products here: it's exclusively about design ideas", explains Nina Ramberg Mortensen, Corporate Marketing Coordinator at Linak A/S in Denmark and responsible for this special event at ORGATEC 2016 in Cologne.

On show will be clever design solutions from Scandinavia, such as ideas and solutions on the topic "Outdoor". The title of the exhibition - "Design meets movement" - is based on a collaboration with the University of Wuppertal for ORGATEC 2014, when, under the same banner, young design students looked for solutions for the workplace of the future. The results of the Europe-wide contest were then presented at the fair.

The 2016 edition of ORGATEC also aims to think beyond conventional solutions and be inspired by new ideas. "I'm sure that quite a few visitors will be really surprised at the objects on show at the 'Design meets movement' stand", promises Nina Ramberg Mortensen. "The interplay between ergonomically adjustable furniture and modern design, viewed in the context of the shift to the outdoors", might best describe the idea behind the "Design meets movement" special event. The stand can be found on the Boulevard between Halls 10 and 11.

• CADEAUX Leipzig: fabrics capture the room

New cloths the country needs: home textiles revive the modern interior design and are the focus of the professional forum for home textiles COMFORTEX at the CADEAUX Leipzig. From September 3rd - 5th  2016 interior designers, property experts, interior designers and craftsmen learn about the "new materiality" in its whole diversity and receive a comprehensive insight into the color and design trends in fabrics and curtains. In addition, the 49th CADEAUX supplies pulses for attractive decorations and innovative glass art and a variety of inspirations around the current lifestyle and culinary enjoyment.

"In September Leipzig presents the theme living for retailers in a great variety," project director Andreas Zachlod says. "A total of 350 exhibitors and brands show on the CADEAUX and on the integrated expert forum for home textiles COMFORTEX their attractive collections and current editions of a modern lifestyle."

Modern materials for room and window

Prestigious brands dominate the exhibition program in the field of cloth and curtain. Among others, the following companies show their innovations: Brändl Textile, Dr. W. Hufnagl, Edi Michel, Florentina embroidery company, Heinz Weckbrodt, Hossner Heimtex, Jürgen Schleiß Confection, Klippan Yllefabrik, Lutex Fabrication, MB Textilmanufaktur, Otto Dotzauer, Raebel, Rovitex, Stickperle, StiVoTex, Verdi Collection, Vogtländische Home Textiles, Voigtmann & Kruschwitz, W. Reuter & Sohn and Wölfel & Co. and also the EuroCom GmbH with quality pressing irons.

About the most important interior trends in terms of cloth the trend forum "New materiality in the room and at the window" will give detailed information. A café with a lecture area invites to stay in an inspiring lounge atmosphere. Bernhard Zimmermann from the sector agency BZ- BBI (Leipzig) and his creative team provide a comprehensive trend update and draw the essential material milieus in four scenarios. In that the products of all exhibitors of home textiles are positioned in the center. Twice a day professional input about the revived enthusiasm of fabrics and of ideas for modern marketing methods will be given in lectures.

Curtains on a triumphal march

"We want to give the visitors the pleasure of selling home textiles, and illuminate advantages and potentials” Bernhard Zimmermann explains. "The creative power of cloths is just rediscovered." Pioneer was the contract business: Here innovative, easy-care fabrics would be appreciated as an excellent light and sun protection and the aesthetic, acoustic and energetic functions of the textile materials would be used. "But also in the living area we are now on the threshold of a trend reversal. The living styles are changing, curtains and drapes are coming back!"

The new "Generation Cloth"

Through cloth livable, pleasant rooms in the work environment, in healthcare, hotels and in private life would arise, so Zimmermann. "They reflect what the modern human being yearn: a cozy retreat that provides livability a new way and in modern colors and raises family warmth."

Suggestions for today's "Generation Cloth" were provided inter alia by the interpretation of advanced architecture, furniture design and creative textile drape of the 50s and 60s. "The market offers the colorations and patterns for every taste - whether comfortably-natural, progressive-young, factually-geometric or classically elegant," Zimmermann says. Not least products such as pillows, blankets or curtains offer an ideal opportunity for seasonal or mood changes in the room.

Inspirational - the lifestyle trends for fall and winter

Living, furnishing and enjoying: Many inspirations and promotional information about modern lifestyle can be experienced in other exhibition areas. Ralf Meuser demonstrates in the forum "Enjoy Meat" premium kitchen accessories in action. With matching accessories from sharp knives and sharp cutting boards, selected roasters and pans to spice mills the chef prepares high quality meat dishes. With practical tips Meuser gives the retailers important sales arguments at hand and points to the potential which lays in the theme "Enjoy Meat".

A traditional material in a stylish garb is staged in the special show GLASklar with emphasis on enjoyment, home accessories and Christmas. On display are glass products from renowned exhibitors - under the label of "Enjoyment" for example, drinking glasses, carafes, dessert bowls, bottles or étagères. Under the heading "Home Accessories" for example lamps, mirrors, pictures and decoration products will be presented. Christmas tree ornaments and figures determine the theme "Christmas". Furthermore, the forum provides a fascinating insight into the art of glass processing and refinement.

Service: opening times and admission prices

CADEAUX with the special forum for home textiles COMFORTEX is opened on Saturday / Sunday (September 3rd and 4th 2016) from 9:30 AM to 06.00 PM and on Monday (September 5th 2016) from 9:30 AM to 05.00 PM. Trade visitors who register online will receive free admission. At the box office the ticket price is EUR 17.00, for regular visitors EUR 8.00. A legitimation as trade visitor is required. The ticket includes also the admission to the open dowry-area of the parallel occurring watch and jewelry fair MIDORA Leipzig.

Sneakers remain the megatrend par excellence in spring / summer 2017. There is no boredom coming up yet. The new shoe collections present themselves varied and innovative: Safari and ethno themes are reinterpreted. Soft romantic and playful decorations set new accents. Newcomers with potential are Mules and Sabots.

While the consumer mood was positive in the first half of 2016 - the shoe retail sector unfortunately could barely benefit of it in many places. Sales in the first six months were two percent lower than last year. The weather conditions were anything but sales promotional: the last winter months were too mild, spring on the other hand was too cool. But this is just one of many causes for the sagging sales of shoe retailing. Deplored also is the loss of appeal of the inner cities and, related with this, the increasing trend of shoe purchasing in the Internet. For the stationary shoe trade this development represents a strong challenge which needs to be mastered. Hope puts the sector on the trend toward shortened trouser forms that lead more attention towards footwear. In the new season the shoe trade has to and wants to invest in target group-oriented shopping ambiance and in marketing methods to provide quality incentives. In many places the product mix has been send back to the testbed. Many traders therefore took advantage of the just ended GDS shoe fair in Dusseldorf in order to learn about the new trends for spring / summer 2017.

Sneakers continue their successful rise and belong to the generational and gender comprehensive trend shoes. The convenient slippers are now being used as footwear for the whole family, from the youngest to the elderly. This trend has often more to do with a sporty look than a sporty use, for many shoe wearer convenience has become a self-evidence. Clean and purist styled models standing next to styles of material mix: glitter, ornamental stones, mesh, metallics, reptile embossing, lasercut and neoprene come in use for the shoes. White soles are an important feature of the new sneaker.

Mules score in a new variety. In trend are toe gripers as well as mules in tube optics and wide (cross) bandages. For purchase incentives models with an anatomic formed footbed and soft uppers (like cork) should care.

Sabots, Mules and Babouch types are indispensable for the new season. The models are mostly flat and come along with slim borders. Very trendy are open toe shown mules with block heels.

Previously Espadrilles were worn only during the (beach) holiday, in the meantime these flat treads have blossomed into absolute trend-outfits. No wonder, because the new models are not only very comfortable, but super stylish also! Particularly noble shafts in a material mix like leather plus metallics come along. Trendy are also Espadrilles made out of linen, exotic printed, trimmed with stripes or sequins and pearls. Non-slipping rubber soles make the Mediterranean shoes now all-weather fit, regardless whether flat, with plateau or wedge.

Loafer with their androgynous variants like Brogue, Budapest and Monk remain important in the coming spring / summer season. It is important that the shoe is light. Filigree, unlined models made of soft suede compete with models with voluminous bottoms.

Sandals are an indispensable part of any summer collection. In addition to models with platform and wide drums are sportier variants. For innovations are sandals with block heels, T-clips and high-front cuts. Hardly to overlook are Lace-up Sandals, a mix of Roman-sandal and Ballerina.

The ethnic and safari trend remains unbroken in spring / summer. Shaft designs with colorful pompons, tassels, embroidery, pearls and braiding determine the optic. Thick, profiled soles ("Briquette plateau") or soles with "shark tooth" profiles have entered the mainstream. Ideal for women who like to “grow” a few centimeters without walking on high heels.

With the great demand for sneakers, the portion of high-tech materials is growing. Leather naturally will not be relinquished for shoes, especially not as soft nappa and suede. Very smooth and glossy surfaces are there among reptile embossing.

The color spectrum in the spring / summer 2017 is discreet. Monochrome color images produce a sustainably-quality look. From pearl gray to titanium ranges the gamut of grays. In addition there are clear, creamy tones with a touch of rosé, sandy shades and powdery-bright models.

Regardless whether as high heel or sneaker - metallic colors of "subtly iridescent" to "mega-glittery" light up many shoes. Silver, bronze and gold are not only trendy in fashion clothes, even the feet are decorated with it in the new season.

From 26 to 28 July 2016 trade visitors from the shoe sector will be able to learn about the current trends and innovations revolving around shoes and accessories at GDS – Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories in Düsseldorf. Since the awareness of sustainability in the European footwear sector is increasing and seen as a long-lasting trend in business strategies, the European Confederation of the Footwear Industry (CEC) together with the other European partners of the “Step To Sustainability” project call upon footwear companies to participate in the International Footwear Workshop on Sustainability. The workshop entitled “Green Shoes for a Sustainable life” will be organised at the GDS shoe fair on 28 July 2016. During the workshop, companies will learn how they can increase their business value and sales whilst having a positive influence on social and environmental conditions by adopting sustainable strategies.

The workshop is being organised by the EU funded project “Step To Sustainability”, the aim of which is to create and pilot a new occupation and qualification profile and corresponding training course in the area of sustainable manufacturing in footwear. The project addresses the needs of companies wishing to engage in sustainable manufacturing by elaborating a new qualification profile, which will equip students with the necessary skills and competences to deal with sustainability issues and contribute to increasing the competitiveness of footwear manufacturers.

Applying sustainability to industry is also an important step to take. Environmental sustainability is certainly increasing in the European footwear sector. The footwear industry contributes to and is affected by the environmental degradation and social challenges that society is now facing. What initially was considered as an external environmental regulation to comply with, meaning an obligation, is now becoming part of the DNA of some companies. By introducing positive changes in production choices, companies can increase the popularity of their products and brand among consumers and business partners alike.

Carmen Arias Castellano, General Secretary of the CEC - European Confederation of the Footwear Industry stated: “Not only the environment benefits from a sustainable strategy. It also enhances social responsibility and will allow businesses to enjoy numerous advantages such as increasing revenue and cutting costs, increasing employee attraction and retention rates, creating a healthy workplace leading to greater productivity, and enhancing relationships with stakeholders and communities.”

At the workshop, there will be a presentation on the results of the Step To Sustainability project by a Portuguese SME, which participated in the pilot, as well as two panels of relevant industry representatives, who will explain best practices in the footwear sector. The first panel will focus on the manufacturing phase with presentations from El Naturalista and BATA Brands as well as the organisation LeatherNaturally; while the second will present the retailers’ approach to ensuring sustainability with contributions from Deichmann, Zumnorde, and Avocado Store GmbH.: www.cec-footwearindustry.eu

• Functional travel wear for travelling, outdoor adventures and everyday use -meeting the new demanding requirements of travelers in the digital age

The tourist industry is suffering in many traditional destination countries. Yet outdoor companies say that sales of luggage, accessories and travel wear remains unaffected. Independent tourism is thriving. Good news for outdoor manufacturers - as functional clothing offers more crossover potential than any other sector. OutDoor 2016 in Friedrichshafen - the leading international trade show - will be providing an overview of the latest trends and innovations for the travellers of tomorrow from July 13 to 16, 2016.

The German Travel Association (DRV) has reported the impact of geopolitical factors on the tourism industry. For example, summer bookings are down by 40 per cent in Turkey compared to the previous year. Other European travel associations are reporting similar lower-than-usual booking levels for Egypt and Tunisia. However, the outdoor industry appears unaffected. "We‘ve not seen any impact on our market,? says Columbia (Portland, US). "People continue to travel lots, although given the current political situation they are choosing different destinations.? Lonely Planet, the independent traveller’s bible, currently recommends visiting the following countries: Botswana, Japan, Poland, Palau, Latvia, Australia, Uruguay, US, Greenland and Fiji. Not exactly classical, low-cost family destinations, but still potential paradises for outdoor and adventure travel.

Thomas Groeger, country manager Fjällräven Germany is also confident, "More and more people are looking for alternatives to the conventional beach holiday. Outdoor- and sport-related travel is particularly popular.? Gerold Ringsdorf, product trainer Jack Wolfskin sees "interrail travellers and globetrotters? as "important founders of the outdoor movement.” Travel garment manufacturer ExOfficio (Seattle, US) agrees, pointing to a survey where 42 per cent of Europeans describe themselves as adventure travellers. Package tourism might still dominate the market, but it continues to be frowned upon. In contrast, independent travel is seen as an attractive, if complicated option for the masses.

The Future institute “Zukunftsinstitut” (Frankfurt/ Vienna) observes a new phenomenon which it calls the "normtrotter”: vacationer looking for a personalized experience and personalized service, but who still want their bookings arranged in advance. And from America, there’s a newly-coined expression to describe more affluent backpacking for normal travellers: flashpacking. The term refers to traditional backpacking only with flash, or style, i.e. adventure travellers who desire style and comfort. Travelers in this growing segment prefer to sleep in their own hotel room, hire a car instead of using overcrowded coaches and plan ahead using modern communication devices rather than going with the flow and improvising.

"Backpacking used to be the exception, something for adventurers only. Nowadays, it‘s a common way of travelling,“ comments Thomas Groeger. Young people in particular prefer to travel in a simpler manner. "The gap year - young people wanting to work and travel abroad - is a definite trend,“ adds Gerold Ringsdorf.

Modern travel equipment is designed to meet people’s requirements regarding performance and security. Backpacks and bags have anti-theft slashproof straps to stop bag slashers and RFID-blocking pockets to keep personal information and data safe. Travel apparel is often made of insect-repelling fabrics or has UV protection suitable for tropical sun, plus moisture management and odour control. In addition, today‘s travel wear is lightweight, easy-care and takes up little space in your backpack.

Modern travel wear also offers significant crossover potential for outdoor and everyday use. UV protection and protection against mosquitoes or ticks is also useful in central and northern Europe. "Of course urban outdoor, outdoor lifestyle and travel wear styles often look pretty similar,? says Wolfgang Jahn, sales manager Europe Royal Robbins, while Oliver Robens, sales director Europe Craghoppers adds, "it’s possible to look good both in the jungle and about town.? However, real travel apparel sets itself apart through its functional characteristics and extra details. And this is exactly why specialist providers have been so successful over the years.

To find out which new trends and products innovations will be shaping the industry in 2017, visit the international OutDoor trade show in Friedrichshafen. OutDoor 2016 is open to industry visitors only from Wednesday, July 13 to Saturday, July 16 (Wednesday to Friday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.). For more information, please visit: www.outdoor-show.com.

• Trade visitors very pleased with the bigger and more extensive range of products at the world’s leading trade fair for the sector
• Exhibitors and visitors rate the economic situation in the sector as very good

• INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION INCREASES
• COMPANIES HAVE TO MODERNIZE PRODUCTION AND INCREASE DEPTH OF PROCESSING

Dubai / Islamabad (GTAI) - Pakistan's textile and clothing industry has urgently to invest. The international competition has intensified. The companies need to modernize their technology and increase their processing depth. The country wants to get away from the production of simple fabrics and yarns. The GSP Plus agreement with the EU and an improvement in the security situation have improved the investment climate. In high-end machines Pakistan is dependent on imports. 

Pakistan's textile and clothing industry expects better sales opportunities abroad in the next few years, particularly with the European Union. Early 2014 Pakistan has received from the EU the GSP Plus status (Generalized System of Preferences) that allows the country to supply goods at a lower rate of duty or even with a completely duty exempt in the EU. Particularly the textile and clothing industry benefits from the agreement, as the sector provides almost 80% of Pakistan's exports to the EU. The government even hopes on additional exports for the sector worth USD 1 billion per year.

Following the latest available trade figures, Pakistan increased in 2014, the year in which the GSP Plus agreement came into force, its total exports of clothing by almost 10% to around USD 5 billion. Official figures of exports to the EU are not available. According to the foreign trade statistics, in any case exports to Germany have increased in clothing by 13% to almost USD 500 million, in textiles by 18% to USD 434 million and in footwear by 27% to USD 34 million.

Source: UN Comtrade

Demand for textile machinery rises
Market observers anticipate increased investments in machinery. A particular dynamic effort is expected in the demand for textile printing machines, dyeing machines, tenter frames and other finishing techniques. Positive for the investment climate will be the effect of the expected increase in textile exports to the EU and the improvement of the security situation. In recent years power shortages and a precarious security situation have inhibited the production and investment activity.

The market for textile machinery (SITC 724) grew significantly since 2014. In the country itself only relatively simple machines are being manufactured. High-end equipment is mostly imported. The import of textile machinery rose to USD 585 million in 2014, an increase of 17% compared to 2013.

*) SITC 724, including pieces
Source: UN Comtrade

*) SITC 724, including pieces

Investments urgently needed
Competition from PR China, Bangladesh, India and Sri Lanka has intensified. Pakistan's textile industry needs to modernize and upgrade, to increase its productivity and the added value. Pakistan covers the entire value chain from fiber preparation from to the end product. Despite this well-position predominantly simple products are being produced. Only an estimated 40 companies are vertically integrated and cover the entire textile processing.
With an annual harvest of about 13 million bales Pakistan is the world's fourth largest cotton producer. In addition about 600.000 tons of synthetic fibers are being manufactured in the country. According to reports there are 21 manufacturers of filament yarn with a capacity of 100.000 t; the production is supported by a PTA plant with a capacity of 500.000 t.

Sources: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics; TMA - Towel Manufacturers Association

Yarn production has lost competitiveness
According to sector experts In the past decade yarn manufacturers made no larger investments to upgrade their production, although money would have been available for such investments.  The reason for that should have been the heavy competition from China, India and Bangladesch.  Ten years ago Pakistan used to be one of the most efficient yarn manufacturers worldwide. Because modernization investments failed to materialize, this technique applies as outdated in Pakistan today.

The companies complain about high production costs and are demanding more favorable electricity tariffs and protectionist measures against import competition. A negative effect on the production and the investment climate in the country also have the electricity shortages and the tense security Situation.

The textile sector in Pakistan is characterized by numerous large textile companies with quite a large number of small businesses opposite which mostly belong to the so-called informal sector. The informal sector, for example, includes small family companies or small productions, which are not taxable. The informal sector produces mainly simple products for the domestic market. It works with discarded equipment of the larger companies, imported used machinery or cheap equipment from China. The official statistics do not take the informal sector into account.

• Sales decreases
• Middle Price Segments affected most
• Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency. For the textile and clothing industry, the Ruble devaluation means a fundamental change in the general framework: more expensive imports, lower personnel costs in Russia and rising export opportunities.
 
Customers change from the middle to the lower price segment
In addition, the real income of the Russian population declines and thus the purchasing power. Russian customers buy less clothing and watch more and more the price. Sales shrink at the most in the medium price segment. Many customers orientate themselves on low-price segments (mass market), which will increase in 2016 by 5 to10% to a share of 65 to 70%, the Fashion Consulting Group predicts. The proportion of the premium and luxury segment remains unchanged.
An average Russian household has cut its spending on clothing and home textiles by 30 to 50%, experts estimate. Especially the suppliers of imported textiles and clothing got to feel this, their prices had to be increased most, what damaged the business of foreign brand suppliers. In 2015 the Russian imports of textiles and clothing fell by 25%. This tendency continues in 2016.
    
Distribution networks in the stationary trade become thinned 
Because of the price pressure manufacturers and retailers in the fashion market shorten their staff, negotiate discounts for the shop rental, reduce the collections, simplify cuts and save on quality. While many Russian brands used to buy their materials in the EU and in Turkey, designers and producers now can only afford cheap synthetic fabrics from China. The advertising budgets were slashed in 2015 by 40 to 45%. Moreover clothing suppliers react by closing stores and concentrate on most profitable locations. Since 2014 more than eleven international brands have left the Russian market. These include Gerry Weber from the middle price segment, Laura Ashley, Chevignon and Seppälä; from the mass market segment Esprit, New Look, OVS, River Iceland and Wendys.  
 
Marks & Spencer closed 3% of its stores, Mango 7%, Gloria Jeans 12%. The largest drop in the number of stores are reported from the brands Vis-a-Vis (-65%), Motivi (-40%), Savage (-29%) and Incity (-17%). Maratex closed its franchise stores for clothing brands like Esprit, New Look, OVS and River Iceland 2015 in Russia. The Finnish Stockmann sold its seven department stores in Russia for EUR 5 million to Reviva Holdings Ltd. (owner of the franchise store chain Debenhams) and gave up the business of its brands Lindex and Seppälä.
 
Adidas has closed 2015 167 of its 1,100 shops in Russia, planned are 200. The German sportswear manufacturer acquired 2015 the central warehouse Chekhov-2 with an area of 120,000 square meters in the Moscow region. The purchase price is supposed at a total between USD 70 and 100 million. The Finnish Kesko informed in February 2016 that it wants to sell the Russian Intersport chain because of poor financial results.

The retail chain Modny continent (brands: Incity, Deseo) reduced the number of its stores by 35. At the end of the first quarter of 2016 they still owned 301 stores. The Melon Fashion Group disposed in 2015 27 unprofitable stores, for this they opened 37 new ones. Melon owned December 31st 604 stores throughout Russia (befree 234, Zarina 203, Love Republic 167), of which 134 are franchise stores (befree 56, Zarina 44, Love Republic 34). A new concept of the stores - larger retail space and more modern design – should help against the crisis.
The Spanish designer brand Desigual closed its Russian stores end of September 2015, but they remain on the market in multibrand stores. A similar course is followed by other brands. 

Eleven fashion brands enter the Russian market in the first half year of  2016
A small gleam of hope: Eleven fashion brands announced to enter the Russian market in the first half year of 2016. This happened already at the end of 2015 with budget brands like Cortefiel, Superdry and Violetta by Mango. H & M, Monki, Uniqlo and Forever 21 want to continue to expand in Russia.
Already in 2015 the number of H & M stores grew in Russia by 35% to 96 stores. On April 28th 2016 the menswear house Henderson opened a new salon in the shopping center "Zelenopark" in Zelenograd near Moscow. With this Henderson (brands: Henderson, Hayas) is now represented in 164 major shopping centers in 56 Russian cities. Hugo Boss inaugurated on April 8th 2016 a new shop in the Outlet Village Pulkovo.

The vertically integrated chain Gloria Jeans has changed it’s headquarter at the beginning of 2016 from Rostov-on-Don to Moscow and rented there 3,500 square meters in the Arma plant. Until the end of 2016 Gloria Jeans plans to extend on 5,000 square meters and further to 10,000 square meters until 2017. The capital should serve as a gateway to the world market: Gloria Jeans plans to open an office in Hong Kong. The company has eight regional offices and two large logistics complexes in Novosibirsk and Novoshakhtinsk.

Source: Retail.ru

Online sale with clothing is growing – Chinese suppliers are expanding
In contrast to the declining sales in the stationary apparel trade, the demand in outlets and on the Internet is rising. The number of visits and the average amount of receipts at the Fashion House Outlet Centre Moscow has risen by two times since July 2013, director Brendon O'Reily reports. The Fashion House Group offers online shopping since 2016.

The association of Internet trading companies (http://www.akit.ru) estimates that sales on the Internet in 2015 were Rubles 760 billion (+ 7%). The share of clothing and footwear was 35 %. Already in 2014 the online trade had grown by a third. Online stores are operated by KupiVIP, Lamoda and Finn Flare. Alone at KupiVIP the number of orders increased by 45% to a volume of Rubles 16.5 billion in 2015.

Manufacturers and distributors therefor boost the online trade. The government wants to promote the export of Russian goods and is planning a large Internet trading platform. Models are Alibaba (China) and JD.com. However Russian customers are buying increasingly from Asian webshops. Only in 2014 the popularity of online orders in China increased threefold.

Contac addresses
Fashion Consulting Group
(Consulting, Marketing, PR)
125009 Moskau, Maly Gnezdnikowskij pereulok 4
Tel.: 007 495/629 74 25, -629 76 23
E-Mail: info@fashionconsulting.ru, Internet: http://www.fashionconsulting.ru

Russian Buyers Union
119034 Moskau, ul. Prechistenka 40/2, Gebäude 3, Büro 110
Tel.: 007 499/350 51 40
E-Mail: info@buyersunion.ru, relations@buyersunion.ru
Internet: http://www.buyersunion.ru