Textination Newsline

• Exhibitors from 9 countries showcased products across 6 categories: upholstery, bed, bathroom, table, window and floor
• Summer 2017 Seminar Series highlights include home furnishings color trends, sustainability and post-consumer recycling, and appealing to the millennial shopper

The 8^th edition of Home Textiles Sourcing Expo opened its show floor to exhibitors and buyers alike on Monday July 17, 2017. As a long-term joint venture partnership between Messe Frankfurt and CCPIT-TEX, the show is the only trade event in North America to focus solely on home textiles and finished soft goods for all home applications.

Over the last eight years, Home Textiles Sourcing Expo has become a go-to event for manufacturers, retailers, jobbers, converters, contract specifiers and designers searching for the perfect fabric or manufacturing resources for their next home collection. This July’s edition showcased home products in six categories, including upholstery, bed, bathroom, table, window and floor.
 
Home Textiles Sourcing Expo Summer 2017 featured 158 exhibitors representing 9 countries, making this edition the most globally diverse group in show history. Countries represented included USA, Taiwan, Thailand, Korea, Bangladesh and more. Dedicated pavilions included the Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC)-sponsored India pavilion, the Pakistan pavilion featuring 8 suppliers, and the always popular Turkey pavilion. The Suzhou China pavilion also made its debut on the show floor with suppliers specializing in quality silk bedding and home textiles.

High-quality cotton, kitchen textiles, premium bedding and luxury bath textiles were also to be found among July 2017 exhibitor product offerings. “The Summer 2017 edition of Home Textiles Sourcing Expo was the most diverse showing of exhibitors in the history of the show from both a product and sourcing destination perspective”, said Jennifer Bacon, Show Director. “Our attendees were able to source quality textiles and finished goods from both established and emerging sourcing destinations. The access our show gives buyers to products in almost every home category – bedding, bath, floor, upholstery and more – is hard to find elsewhere. “

Once again taking place alongside Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA, as well as the debut edition of Avanprint USA, the Summer 2017 edition of Home Textiles Sourcing Expo ultimately welcomed a diverse group of visitors from 45 countries. Together the four co-located shows welcomed a record-breaking number of visitors from a combined 72 different countries, making the Summer 2017 shows the most well attended in show history.
   
Texworld USA Seminar Series, organized by Lenzing Innovation, cater to home furnishings and home goods industry with timely topics
The Lenzing Innovation seminar series once again proved to be a big draw for Home Textiles Sourcing Expo attendees. Several home trendfocused seminars catered specifically to the home market and spoke directly to issues that the industry is facing.

Home-industry focused seminars included:
INSPIRING AND EXPRESSING COLOR: DEFINING THE ESSENTIAL TRENDS FOR HOME FURNISHINGS 2018
Laurie Pressman, Vice President - Pantone Color Institute
Color palettes for 2018 break free from traditional thinking. Colors are revitalized, hues are mixed in novel combinations and new color directions instantly and effectively express a fresh approach. While commerciality is still critical, taking a more unique approach to color will help you stand out from the mainstream. Colors range from classic arrangements through to fully saturated, punchy narratives all the while leading to newer and more unique color expressions.

BREATHE EASIER: ASTHMA AND ALLERGY-FRIENDLY TEXTILES
Dr. John McKeon, Co-Founder and Chief Executive Officer - Allergy Standards
Asthma and allergies strike one-in-four Americans, that’s 60 million people who spend an estimated $10 billion a year on products marketed to this group! But claims made by companies today can’t be verified because there is little or no governing regulation. What can companies do to capture a piece of this growing market?    

APPEALING TO THE MILLENNIAL SHOPPER: WHAT HOME TEXTILE RETAILERS ARE DOING TO CAPTURE THIS CRITICAL DEMOGRAPHIC
Jennifer Marks,  Editor-In-Chief - Home & Textiles Today Magazine
Moderator - Nina Nadash, Home Textile Manager (Americas) - Lenzing Fibers, Inc.
Despite the fact that Millennials are coming of age in one of the most frenetic economic climates in the past century, research shows almost 3 out of 4 are willing to pay extra for sustainable offerings. Marketers of products and services committed to positive social and environmental impact need to ensure they are communicating their brand message in a way that builds confidence with this critical consumer demographic. Jennifer Marks, Editor-in-Chief of Home & Textiles Today will be on hand to give her perspective on the Millennial market, highlighting the importance of matching your brand message to the personal values of this important consumer group.

• Competition is tough
• Demand is growing

Warsaw (GTAI) - The dynamic demand for clothing and shoes in Poland is unbroken in 2017. The clothing sector, which is in a tough price competition, consolidates itself through mergers. A merger between the two large men’s outfitter Bytom and Vistula is due. In the case of women's fashion, the trend is towards timeless quality goods, which also opens up opportunities for German suppliers. Retail sales of textiles, clothing and footwear are the fastest growing of all product groups in Poland. According to the Central Statistical Office (CIS) in the first five months of 2017 the real growth was 16.1% above the value of the previous year's period. The total retail sales increased by 6.9%. For the full year 2016 these growth rates were 16.4 and 5.7%, respectively.

The in spring of 2016 introduced children's allowance and the fact that many Poles spend their summer holidays in Poland are stimulating the demand even more. This also results in additional supply chances for German suppliers. However, they are in an intense competition with domestic manufacturers and dealers. Sector experts have calculated that the stock exchange listed companies for clothing and footwear could have increased their revenues by an average of 16% in the first half of 2017. The CCC shoe chain was the most successful company with an increase of one third.

*) preliminary data
Source: Company data

The positive development is mainly attributable to the increased number of chain stores, the expansion of sales areas and the increase in online trading. Now the sector wants to strengthen its position through mergers.

Vistula on expansion course
The two men’s outfitter Bytom and Vistula want to use synergy effects and operate more successful on the market by merging. Since the middle of April 2017 they are negotiating about this step which could be completed by the end of the year. According to market observers, Vistula should have to issue new shares in order to be able to take over Bytom. The merger would end the tough price competition of the two competitors in formal clothing. They would be able to arrange joint purchases and coordinate their logistics.

Source: Market research company PMR, 2017

According to own data Vistula had 366 own shops with a total area of 30,500 sqm. in 2016, Bytom 111 sales salons with 12,690 sqm. The revenues of the Vistula Group were with ZI 599 mio in 2016 (around EUR 137 million, 1 EUR = 4.36 ZI, average rate 2016) almost four times higher than those of Bytom with ZI 153 mio. The net profit of Vistula was with ZI 35.2 mio almost three times as high as that of Bytom (ZI 12.4 mio).

Vistula owns more clothing brands like Wolczanka and the noble mark Lambert as well as the brand Deni Cler for ladies fashion of the high-end segment.The jewelry manufacturer W.Kruk is also part of the group. Industry experts see Vistula continuing to expand.

A further possible takeover candidate is the brand for chic women's wear "Simple" with the same name trade chain and an online business, which is currently owned by Gino Rossi. Simple had recently weakened and is currently being restructured to get better results again. The chairman of the Vistula Group, Grzegorz Pilch, sees opportunities for a takeover of a company for women's clothing in 2018 at the earliest.

Also the manufacturer of ladies wear Monari is looking for take-over candidates. The competition in this segment is the largest. According to the Gino Rossi chairman Tomasz Malicki customers are increasingly looking for high-quality clothing with simpler cuts, that can be worn for longer than a season. Another large garment company, Prochnik, is considering investing in an online business.

LPP stays with casual everyday fashion
Unable to withstand the competition was the brand Tallinder, which was introduced for elegant men’s wear by the market leader LPP in 2016. The shops had to close again. LPP, on the other hand, is successful in casual everydays fashion, often sewn in the Far East. The company sells its five brands Reserved, Mohito, Cropp, House and Sinsay in a total of 1,704 stores in 19 countries, including Germany. Demand is developing dynamically for example in Russia.

In Poland itself there are around 1,000 shops, the number of which could drop in the future with a simultaneous enlargement of the sales areas at the individual branches. This was said by the chairman of LPP, Marek Piechocki, to the daily Rzeczpospolita. The total LPP sales area should increase by about 10% until 2021 and the company's sales should increase by 15 to 20%. At the end of 2017 LPP is planning to operate 19 Reserved stores in Germany.

One of the leading exporters is the company Redan, which is well represented in Central Eastern Europe. It sells brands such as "Top Secret", "Troll" and "Drywash". Redan owns the TXM discount chain which includes around 380 stores locally and abroad as well as an online shop. The company OTCF with its brand for sportswear "4F", has a wholesale network in more than 30 countries.

In addition to the large chains, numerous Polish fashion designers create their own designs. In the premium segment, the brands "La Mania" by Joanna Przetakiewicz and "Emanuel Berg" by Jaroslawa Berg-Szychulda can be found in foreign fashion centers. In several Polish cities the chain Hexeline is represented with its own sales saloons, which produces high-quality women's fashion in its own studio in Łódź.

With the "Product Warmia Mazury" award, which special products from Warmia-Masuria can receive, the fashion designer Barbara Caly-Jablonska can provide her hand-sewn wedding, evening and cocktail dresses as well as stage costumes. Their creations are inspired by the traditions of the area.

According to its deputy chairman Marcin Czyczerski the sales area of the shoe chain CCC will be enlarged by around 100,000 m² in 2017. In March 2017 the chain owned 870 stores with a total area of 471,300 sqm. In the first quarter alone, eight sales salons with 12,700 sqm were added. CCC needs to increase the profitability of its activities in Germany and Austria.

Even though it is not easy for Polish suppliers of clothing and footwear to gain a foothold in Western European markets, they are still exporting to there, especially to Germany. More than half of the in Poland produced textiles go abroad, almost half of their clothing. Fashion and accessories are shown in Poland at numerous trade shows. The next Poznan Fashion Show  (http://www.targimodypoznan.pl/pl/) will take place from September 5th -9th 2017.

• The sector lives from export
• Clear sales plus for technical textiles

Bonn (GTAI) - The turnover of the Austrian textile industry fell by around 1% to EUR 1.4 billion in 2016. The export sector generates over 70% of its revenues. After about half of all jobs have been lost in the last 20 years, the textile industry has now been stabilized at the present level. The area of technical textiles is particularly dynamic.

Austria's textile industry recorded a production and sales reduction of 1% each in 2016 after two very positive economic years before. Revenues thus fell to EUR 1.4 billion. As a recent sector report from UniCredit Bank Austria shows, the sector was mainly short of domestic orders, which in 2016 could only partly become offset by an increase in foreign sales of 3.5%. Despite the slight reversal in 2016, the results of the last three years show that the sector has been stabilized.

"The restructuring of the domestic textile industry, which has resulted in a reduction of jobs by around half in the last two decades, is likely to be at the culminating point, although a further moderate capacity reduction can finally not be excluded. But the domestic textile industry proves its competitiveness since it has already succeeded in overcoming the decline in the domestic demand - especially also as a result of the erosion of the clothing industry - with higher foreign sales," according to the conclusion of UniCredit Bank Austria economist Günter Wolf.

Economic recovery for textile manufacturers in sight

After a negative start into the first quarter of 2017, the sectors economy has stabilized and should continue to gain momentum in the further course of the year. The background of the expected upturn are the higher economic growth rates in major Western and Eastern European markets, especially in France, Poland, Hungary and the Czech Republic, which account for almost 20% of domestic textile exports. This can compensate the lack of demand from Germany, the most important single market for Austrian textiles with an export share of 28%. In the first quarter of 2017, the foreign trade turnover of the sector rose by about 5%. On the other hand the textile industry in Austria itself cannot expect any growth momentum, what the decline in domestic sales of 6% until March 2017 has already indicated. A production plus in a low single digit range for the textile industry is nevertheless possible in 2017.

Technical textiles keep the industry alive

According to Wolf, the growth of the textile industry in 2017 is once again based on the demand for textiles for technical applications. According to provisional data about these products a sales growth of 1% was achieved already in 2016, which then accelerated to a remarkable plus of 13% in the first two months of 2017. On the other hand, the decline in the turnover of the weaving mills, the textile finishers and the manufacturers of knitted fabrics is continuing. The decline in the spinning mills of 5% in 2016 has at least decreased.

Foreign trade sales account for 71% of the total turnover of the textile industry; this is therefore much more than the average of the entire industry (59%). Bank Austria economist Wolf says: "In the long term, Austria's textile industry is securing its economic survival with its export successes. The basis for this was the comprehensive restructuring and the resulting strengthening of the competitiveness of the sector. "The foreign turnover of the sector rose by a total of 24% to around EUR 1 billion in the period from 2009 to 2016, with which the domestic sales losses of 8% became offset.

According to Bank Austria, the success of the domestic textile manufacturers is, in principle, based on improved productivity and concentrating on high-quality products. Economically, textile manufacturers in Austria can only survive in innovative niche areas. With an added value of EUR 60,000 per employee, compared with EUR 39,000 in the EU average, the sector is in the top position of the European market.

Internet address
Industry analyzes of Bank Austria
Internet (in German language):
https://www.bankaustria.at/boersen-und-research-analysen-und-research-oesterreich-wirtschaftsanalysen-und-studien.jsp

• Chinese fashion companies are becoming more creative and work on their branding
• German fashion has a hard time with it

Beijing (GTAI) Chinese fashion has the reputation for being less creative and of poor quality. Well established brands are rare. But this is now changing. More and more local designers succeed in making a name for themselves on a national and an international level. This is why it will be harder for imported clothing to establish itself on the Chinese market in the future. Chinese designers meet the local taste with a mixture of Western and Chinese elements.

When it came to buying clothes, Chinese customers had for several decades only two choices - either settle for cheap domestic bulk goods or spend a lot of money on an imported product. First came the luxurious brands, especially from Italy and France, which China's new millionaires adorned themselves with, then more and more shops opened, targeting the ongrowing middle class and in which also German business clothing sold well.

But the local competition does not sleep. The Chinese textile and clothing industry faces a massive financial pressure; therefore many companies have to take a decision; either they become better or they have to go. Anyone who remains has to change his production and his products in such a way that they can meet the more and more demanding customers, especially within the domestic market.

This includes the positioning of own brands. The Dongrong Group from Inner Mongolia is currently following this path. It has become well known for manufacturing cashmere products for famous British and Italian fashion labels, and now sells its own design under its own label ("Dongli") in its own shops.

Owning a store – or even better several stores - is the dream of most young Chinese fashion designers, who are increasingly making a name for themselves on the Chinese market. This is also due to the retail structure in the People’s Republic of China, which is unusual for Germans. The typical German clothing retailers with several brands in the assortment do not exist. Instead, mono-brand stores dominate - either as single stores or in the large malls as sublet retail space.

Nevertheless, Chinese companies have a lot to catch up on branding and quality. Even the familiarity of important Chinese suppliers is usually limited to local buyers. For the majority of European customers, however, they are not even a concept. But according to industry insiders, this is also changing. The number of successful Chinese fashion designers and companies is growing even internationally.

Despite deficits in areas like creativity and branding, the scene is growing and finds an ongrowing customer base. Accordingly, things will become even more difficult for German fashion, which usually cannot compete with the glamour of the Italian or French competition. Although there are more Chinese people who are able to spend a lot for good fashion, but there is also a larger local offer, which is price oriented to foreign markets and meets the Chinese taste with a skillful mix of Western and Chinese traits.    

Chinese Importes of Apparel*)
(in Mio. US$, change in comparison to the previous month in %)

*) HSPos. 61+62
Source: China Customs; calculation by Germany Trade & Invest

China's fashion designers are becoming more successful internationally

Many of the new Chinese fashion designers have studied abroad, worked and / or cooperated with foreign designers, and now combine typical Chinese with modern Western clothing and cuts. With their designs, they do not only create interest in the relevant fashion weeks abroad, but are also increasingly bought in China. Pioneers are fashion designers like Ma Ke ("Wuyong", "Mixmind"), who designed the clothes for China's elegant First Lady Peng Li-yun, or Paris-based Guo Pei, who was named by the Time Magazine 2016 as one of the 100 most influential people in the world. In the meantime, a large number of fashion designers and designers have made themselves a more or less wellknown name.

Among the new labels are for example the Eve Group from Beijing or ANNDERSTAND (founded by Yu Ge, who gained experience already at Louis Vuitton and Gucci) from Shanghai. With tailor-made models from Yu Ge, the underwear brand AtoG Lingerie (founder: Zhou Yingying) even made it to the fashion weeks in London, New York, Milan and Paris. They are particularly popular among the middle and upper classes. These population groups are often looking for a modern, national identity and would like to dress up individually and elegantly - apart from the unattainable big brands from France or Italy, which nevertheless are already in the Chinese metropolises almost "at every corner”.

Return to old traditions 

For example, exquisite new editions of Chinese sheath dresses (Qipao) aree in demand - such as by HanartQipao from Shanghai. Founder Zhou Zhuguang is convinced: "Qipao is the future and perhaps also the beginning of a Chinese haute-couture." The costs of a Hanart dress range from 3,800 to 60,000 yuan (RMB, circa 570 to 9,030 US $, 1 US $ = circa 6,642 RMB, yearly average 2016). Buyers have often embraced a refined Chinese lifestyle - including tea drinking, reciting poems, and collecting Chinese antiques.

Recalling some decor patterns of national minorities, such as the elaborate embroidery art of the Dong or Miao nationality from southern China, is also popular. In particular, Vimemo (founded in 2009 by Yu Ying) from Guizhou has earned a reputation. Vimemo employs about 3,000 female embroiderers and batik dyeing worker in homework and ensures that techniques, which only a few grandmothers are still proficient in, do not die out. In this sense, a research and development center with a school is to be built in 2017. The very high-priced pieces of silk or cotton are sold in own shops (at the Beijing International Airport, for example) or via the Internet.

The Chinese designer, Su Renli, uses the old techniques of handicrafts (for example, the dyeing of fabrics in yamswurze extract) combined with sustainably produced materials and modern cuts. Other promising brands with an individual style are, for example, Zuczug or Icecle based in Shanghai, some of them partly coming into the market with serious eco-friendly products.

Despite the growing health awareness and promising approaches - such as the recently founded "Uncover" project - sustainable fashion in China has so far only been a niche. Against this background, the company Jiaxing Jiecco ("LangerChen") in Zhejiang, founded by Miranda Chen and Philipp Langer, is producing their fabrics that are mainly certified according to the strict Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) primarily for foreign customers. Genuine eco-fashion or fair produced clothing has so far been a concept for the fewest Chinese. "After discussing food safety, the discussion about healthy clothing will follow," Miranda Chen is convinced. But time has not yet come.

• Foreign companies should adapt their fashion to Chinese needs
• Increasing health awareness strengthens sportwear market

Beijing (GTAI) - The Chinese clothing market is one of the largest in the world and is developing rapidly. From the lower mass volume over the in quality and optic pretty products in a midprice segment to luxury and haute-couture the range of products in the sectors is constantly expanding. In addition to the tendency towards recognized brands an increasing individualization of consumption can be observed. What is needed, what fits well is liked and moreover is somehow "special".

According to the Chinese Statistical Office (NBS), the retail sales of clothing increased in 2016 to more than USD 150 billion (these figures include companies with annual sales of over USD 3 million in their main business). This makes the Chinese clothing market to one of the largest in the world.

The Chinese consumer desires are increasingly demanding, differentiated and personalized. The new possibilities of the Internet, including the booming e-commerce, are changing the purchasing behavior drastically. The level of information has risen significantly, especially as a result of visits abroad. Customers are increasingly aware of prices that have to be paid outside of China. Too high price increases are therefore perceived as discrimination and damage the image of brands.

"The success is not decided by online or offline trading or whether it is a local or international company, but whether the supply meets the demand," Liu Xiaolu, founder of the popular underwear brand Neiwai says.  Essential are the right materials and a quick response to the changing needs of the customers. Finding the right piece online can actually be difficult. A number of hitherto exclusively online offering vendors such as Miss Rhino have recently opened additional conventional stores in order to provide a better advice to customers.   

Fashion must meet Chinese expectations

This makes the sector division representative for the entire Chinese fashion market: the products must be liked and should fit. From the customers' point of view, it is important to find the balance between foreign flair and local characteristics. Not without a reason the 345 yuan (RMB, around 52 $, 1 USD = 6.6442 RMB, as annual average price 2016) for expensive model O2bra "Naja Nina", is one of the bestsellers of the Neiwai brand in Shanghai. It unites Chinese and Western elements: from the outside plain black, decorated inside with erotic motifs from classical Chinese painting.  In general, the underwear sector within the fashion market is considered to be the least saturated and segmented. The Chinese retail trade sold women's underwear at about USD 20.1 billion in 2016. It is estimated to reach USD 25 billion in 2017. For 2020 Euromonitor International predicts sales of USD 33 billion.    

The top ten producers share 13% of the market only. The bulk of this is due to thousands of hardly known companies selling their products at low prices. The prices for a bra range from RMB 50 piece from the Chinese mass producer Cosmo Lady to one hundred times higher Italian brand La Perla. In order to benefit from the more demanding wishes of the Chinese women's world, for example Victoria's Secret from the USA opened its first subsidiary in the People's Republic in Shanghai in March 2017 - a four-storied flagship store.

According to the industry in the long term it hardly will be possible to bring for Western women designed goods to China.  Although in the medium to long term the Chinese ladies statistically seem to become larger and more corpulent, but the purely physical differences will still remain considerable. According to the China Physical Fitness Surveillance Center, women aged 20 to 24 in 2000 were 158.6 cm tall in average, their breast circumference was 82 cm, ten years later they were measured 159 cm respectively still 82 cm. Women of the age of 25 to 29 years measured in 2000 about 158.7 cm / 82.5 cm and in 2010 at 158.2 cm / 83.4 cm. At this background, the companies need not only to develop appropriate fit-sizes. They also have to accept that Chinese women have a more functional or conventional attitude than, for example, women from the USA. This is not least true for swimwear also.

The market for sportswear is growing strongly

According to taobao.com, the largest online platform in the country, more than 21 million bikinis and bathing suits are being sold annually. It is true that every third piece is a bikini, but according to Taobo Chinese women generally prefer to dress more covered than the Western ones. Preference is given to models made with a lot of fabric, looking often much like skirts. Leading are the local companies Hosa, Heatwave and Zoke with prices between RMB 400 and 500. However, many younger Chinese prefer more likely to shop on foreign websites.

Given the strong growth in beach and spa tourism, the demand for swimwear in China will grow at an above-average rate. In general, the sporting goods sector is predicted to get an above-average growth together with increasing health awareness. According to Euromonitor International, sales of sportswear in China are expected to grow to around RMB 281 billion by 2020, of which about RMB 20 to 30 billion will be spent on sports underwear. In total, an estimated value of RMB 170 to 180 billion of sportswear will be sold in the PR China in 2016. The sector is happy and looking forward to a growth of around 10% per annum.

• Impetus for retailers: Practice-oriented talk in cooperation with TEXTILWIRTSCHAFT and shop-in-shop concept “JETZT!”
• Optimised hallstructure: better overview with new segmentation

The trade fair duo Greenshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show Berlin will start the coming summer season with a new location, fresh impetus and a special focus on retail. The new Funkhaus Berlin abode in particular has met with great enthusiasm and promises to give the three-day fashion event during the Berlin Fashion Week (4-6 July 2017) an extra boost. 'Numerous key players and established labels have already announced their intention to take part in the trade fair and we and they are looking forward to the excellent presentation possibilities that the Funkhaus offers', says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt.

With the so-called Shedhalle, the new location has a level exhibition hall flooded with light, meaning that the trade fair duo can be hosted in spacious and clearly laid out surroundings. As part of this change of location, Messe Frankfurt is optimising the structure of the exhibition space and introducing new segmentation. This will provide better orientation for visitors to the trade fair. The multifaceted Ethical Fashion Show Berlin in particular will gain from this new structural segmentation.  The fashion shows will also take place in the Shedhalle. The Funkhaus offers a stimulating backdrop for the catwalk shows, during which the exhibiting labels will present their highlights.

Greenshowroom: contemporary and high fashion

Greenshowroom will present an exclusive selection from the contemporary and high fashion segment. High-class labels will showcase avant-garde design in the front section of the Shedhalle.  Greenshowroom highlights include Ackermann Taschenmanufaktur, Biaggi, Jan ’n June, Jungle Folk, Nat-2, Ombre Claire, Suite 13, Werner 1911 and Xess+Baba.

Ethical Fashion Show Berlin: New segments for a better overview

At the Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, identifying segments in the following way will make orientation easier in future: denim and streetwear labels that present progressive and authentic styles can be found in the “Urbanvibe” category (Grand Step Shoes, Feuervogl, Jaya, LangerChen, Miss Green, Recolution, Skunkfunk, Ultrashoes, Zerum). “Moderncasual” stands for clear, long-lasting collections that range from casual to business (Alma & Lovis, Frieda Sand, Harold’s, John W. Shoes, La-na, Lanius, Naturaline, Ten Points). “Craft” presents products made with traditional craftsmanship interpreted in a new way (Toino Abel). “Individual” comprises pioneers of eco fashion and showcases styles with individual class (El Naturalista, Insecta Shoes, Minu). And the “Kids” area delivers fash-ionable highlights for children and teens (Disana, Serendipity Organics).

Focal point retail: Retail area “JETZT!”, presentations and practice-oriented talk in co-operation with TextilWirtschaft

The trade fair duo is focusing more on the visitor group of retailers than ever before, providing them with a range of attractive information and inspirational offers. The central point of focus is the retail area “JETZT!”. With it, the trade fair duo presents a concept space that gives retailers a vision of how they can integrate sustainable fashion and lifestyle brands in their product ranges – showcased in a fashionable, experience-oriented and contemporary manner. The area presents a shop-in-shop concept that can be individually decorated by retailers within a variable space. Greenshowroom and the Ethical Fashion Show Berlin function as a source of ideas with the aim of making access to the topic of sus-tainable product worlds easier for retailers and motivating them to establish contemporary presentations in their own shops. Guided tours are also offered to interested visitors to get them more involved in the sales concept.

The programme of talks also provides information and incentives relating to retail. In addition to a range of talks from retail experts, visitors can look forward to a special event highlight on the third day of the trade fair at 11 a.m. in the Shedhalle of the Funkhaus: with the practice-oriented talk “How you can earn money with green fashion”, TextilWirtschaft, as a media partner of the trade fair duo, has developed a new discussion format. It is derived from the TW Fair Fashion and will take place on the exhibition grounds of Greenshowroom and the Ethical Fashion Show Berlin for the first time in cooperation with BTE Handelsverband Textil. On the podium, experts from the eco fashion industry will discuss how you can be successful in retail with fair fashion. 

• Projects planned for USD 2.3 billion by 2020
• Doubling of exports of finished products strived

Tashkent (GTAI) - The textiles and clothing industry of Uzbekistan remains one of the most important investment and cooperation sectors for foreign companies. A new expansion program for the period 2017 to 2020 provides for the implementation of 140 projects. The expected inflow of capital to the industry in a value of up to USD 2.3 billion is planned to account for about half of the foreign investment.

The textile and clothing industry should be expanded more than ever into an important export part of the central Asian republic. The specific activities for the targeted doubling of exports by 2020 versus 2016 are listed in the presidential regulation "On the program of measures for the further development of the textile, clothing and tricot industry 2017 to 2020" of December 21st 2016.

Full domestic processing of cotton fibers strived

With an annual output of 3.4 million tons of raw cotton and 1.1 million tons of cotton fibers, Uzbekistan is one of the world's six largest cotton producers. The production of 25,800 tons of cocoons is also considerable high (an average figure for 2012 to 2015). In the first half of 2016 55% of the produced cotton fibers were further locally processed. According to the program this rate should rise to 100% by 2020. It is also planned to reduce the amount of cotton yarn in textile exports in favor of more refined cotton products. Yarn now stands for 53% of the value of exported finished textile products.

The plan is to expand the production of finished textile products until 2020 by 120%, including 170% of yarn, 200% of finished tricot fabrics, 240% of finished yarn and clothing and 270% of hosiery. The share of finished goods in the textile and clothing industry is expected to increase from 47.0 to 65.5% and in export from 42.0 to 70.0%. The program also includes measures to adapt the Uzbek sector norms and standards   to the common international standard rules.

Supply and cooperation opportunities for 140 individually planned projects

Up to USD 2.3 billion shall be invested in 140 expansion and renewal projects by 2020, including complexes with a full value chain. Commercial banks or their investment companies which are providing loans for the co-financing of the projects may, depending on the project, acquire up to 100% of the capital stock of the new or modernized enterprises.

The main contact partner for the projects is the public shareholder company O'zbekyengilsanoat.  It owns 380 textile, clothing and tricot companies, as well as some silk processors, among of them many joint ventures. The company is comparable to a branch of the Ministry of Industry. It stands for a large part of the output and export of the Uzbek textile and clothing industry (estimation for 2016: about USD 1 billion).

Its tasks include the coordination and participation in investment projects. For example, all projects involving O'zbekyengilsanoat companies are subject to a technical review by the scientific and technical advice of the shareholder company. Import contracts for the needs of the projects are also subject to a review.   

Wide preferences for investors

Projects are flanked by several stimuli up to 1st January 2020. The state grants tariff preferences for the import of equipment, complements and spare parts, an exemption from the profit and wealth tax as well as from the duty to the central road fund. Export-oriented manufacturers of finished cotton-, blended-  and silk-fabrics-, finished clothing and tricots, head coverings, stockings and textile gallantry goods will be freed from the mandatory exchange of the foreign exchange in Uzbekistan Sum. Imports of raw materials, auxiliaries and materials can be promoted with customs clearance extension of up to 60 days.

The new central foreign trade company Ustextilexport has been founded to act as a service provider for the needs of all country-based industry players, including small businesses. This applies both to the exploitation of foreign markets, the supply of already established trading houses for textiles and clothing abroad with Uzbek products as well as to the participation in the procurement of technologies and materials for the domestic textile and clothing industry.

The current goals for the expansion of the textile and clothing industry are all rather too ambitious. Medium-term industry programs have already been launched in previous years. Despite some reached progress, the results have been rather sparse. The output and the effectiveness of the production remained far behind the targets. Already in 2012, 407,000 tons of cotton yarn, 350 million square meters of cotton fabrics and 273 million pieces of clothing should have been produced. The for 2012 targeted exports of USD 1.5 billion were also missed in 2016 (a good USD 1.0 billion).

The reasons for this are complex. Too little has been invested so far in the modernization of the existing enterprises. The companies complain about bottlenecks in the provisioning of working capital, in the supply of energy and, above all, in the exchange of foreign exchange for the procurement of imports (spare parts, auxiliary materials, etc.). Another obstacle is the over-regulation of import and export transactions.

Nevertheless, the industry remains a profitable business field for foreign companies. In addition, the signs are good for improving the business environment in the country. After the new President Shawkat Mirsijojew took office in December 2016, a positive mood goes through the country. First regulations for more entrepreneurial freedoms have already been adopted. A whole bunch of further measures is in sight.

1) In addition to the textile and clothing industry, the light industry comprises the sectors of cotton ginning and production of leather goods / shoes;
2) About two-thirds of the output is attributable to the textile and clothing sector;
3) Investments in the sectors cotton ginning, carpets and leather / leather products are less than 10% of the annually in the light industry invested capital.

Source: State Statistics Committee, Tashkent

Contacts
GAK O´zbekyengilsanoat (Staatliche Aktionärsgesellschaft O´zbekyengilsanoat)
ul. Bobura 45, 100100 Taschkent/Republik Usbekistan
Contact personIlchom Haydarov, Vorsitzender der GAK O´zbekengilsanoat; Schochruch Rachimow, manager investment department
Tel.: 00998 71/239 17 11, -253 93 54, -239 17 11, -253 93 58 (administration for investment projects), Fax: -253 93 58, -56 04 (department fir investment)
E-Mail: info@engilsanoat.uz, info@legprom.uz, Internet: http://www.engilsanoat.uz, http://www.legprom.uz

• Techtextil and Texprocess present ‘Living in Space’ in cooperation with ESA and DLR 
• Nutrition, mobility, fashion and living: technical textiles make settlements in space possible

Beam me up, Scotty: a large amount of material has to be transported for a journey into space – and technical textiles account for a large proportion of them. Examples of the parts and products in which they are to be found will be on show at the ‘Living in Space’ exhibition during this year’s Techtextil und Texprocess (9 to 12 May 2017), which has been organised by Messe Frankfurt in cooperation with the European Space Agency (ESA) and the German Aerospace Centre (DLR). Among the exhibits to be seen are materials and technologies from Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors in a ‘Material Gallery’, architecture for space by Ben van Berkel, space-inspired fashions and an original Mars Rover. And – even without having completed a dizzying astronaut training programme – visitors can take a journey through space to Mars via virtual-reality glasses.

“At the ‘Living in Space’ exhibition, Techtextil and Texprocess visitors can see examples of textile materials and processing technologies in an application-oriented setting. In cooperation with our partners and exhibitors, we have created an informative and entertaining area, the like of which has never been seen before at Techtextil and Texprocess”, explains Michael Jänecke, Brand Manager, Technical Textiles and Textile Processing, Messe Frankfurt. Given that technical textiles are to be found in almost every sphere of human life, the materials and processing technologies shown are oriented towards the ‘Architecture’, ‘Civilization’, ‘Clothing’ and ‘Mobility’ areas of application.

Ideal homes in space

Visitors can get an idea of how building in space could function at the ‘Architecture’ area curated by Stylepark architecture magazine. Lightweight construction and canopy specialist MDT-tex joined forces with star architect Ben van Berkel of the international UNStudio firm of architects to create a ‘Space Habitat’ especially for Techtextil. Comprising 60 individual modules, each of which is double twisted and under tension, the lightweight pavilion has an area of 40 square metres and consists of specially designed aluminium profiles covered with PTFE sheets. MDT-tex designed the fabric especially for the pavilion in an extremely light grammage without sacrificing its high-temperature resistance and technical properties.

Ultra-lightweight materials play a leading role in space travel because the lighter the space capsule’s load, the cheaper the transport. Reclining in comfortable seats, visitors to the Space Habitat can also travel to Mars using virtual-realist glasses and, at the same time, find out more about technical textiles and their processing in space.

Hightech-Fashion in orbit

No one likes to be too hot or too cold. Space-wear should not only protect the wearer from extreme temperatures but also regulate their body temperature, drain off moisture and be durable and easy to clean. All the better, then, if it also looks good, as shown by the designs in the ‘Clothing’ segment of the exhibition. The ESMOD Fashion School from Berlin presents outfits made by students within the framework of the ‘Couture in Orbit’ project (2015/2016), which was organised by ESA and the London Science Museum. Additionally, the POLI.design centre of the Politecnico di Milano (Milan University) presents outfits from the followup project, ‘Fashion in Orbit’ under the scientific supervision of Annalisa Dominoni and the technical supervision of Benedetto Quaquaro in cooperation with ESA and garment manufacturer Colmar.

The Hohenstein Textile Institutes present two models from the Spacetex research project, within the framework of which astronaut Alexander Gerst tested the interaction of body, apparel and climate under conditions of weightlessness during the ‘Blue Dot’ mission. In this connection, the model, ‘Nostalgia’ by Linda Pfanzler (Lower Rhine University) reminds the wearer of the earth with an integrated library of fragrances. The suits of the ‘Dynamic Space’ collection by Rachel Kowalski (Pforzheim University) contain electrodes that stimulate important muscle groups under conditions of weightlessness. The outfits by Leyla Yalcin and Sena Isikal (AMD Düsseldorf) come from the ‘Lift off’ collection created in cooperation with Bremen-based silver-yarn manufacturer Statex. They include a sleeping bag for astronauts made from silver-coated textiles, which can also be used as an overall and protects the wearer from electro-magnetic radiation. Thanks to the silver threads, another garment, a raincoat reflects light and stores the wearer’s body heat.

Material Gallery: fibers for space

In addition to the exhibits at the special exhibition, around 40 Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors offer ideas for fibre-based materials and processing technology suitable for use in space in a ‘Material Gallery’. For the ‘Civilization’ segment, they include spacer fabrics for growing vegetables, for ‘Mobility’ a carbon yarn, which was used to make a fairing for the solid-fuel booster rocket of the Ariane 6. The Material Gallery also shows fibre-composite structures made of carbon fibres, such as a robot arm, a whole-body suit that transmits the wearer’s movements to a 3D model in real-time, functional apparel textiles with flame-retardant, anti-bacterial and temperature-regulating properties, and membrane systems for ventilating aircraft.

Exhibits from ESA, DLR and Speyer Museum of Technology, including an original Mars Rover and space suits, make the exhibition an extraordinary experience. The exhibits are supplemented by impulse lectures by ESA experts for technology transfer throughout the fair.

• New outdoor trend: everyday adventures close to home, local adventures for everyone, microadventure
• expert Alastair Humphreys at the OutDoor

Everyday adventures for all, real outdoor experiences in your own backyard. The outdoor industry is well equipped to respond to this enthusiasm for getting out there. Microadventures are the future of the outdoor market and by no means detract from the particular authenticity and spirit of the outdoor industry. At this year’s OutDoor (18th to 21st June, 2017), this new outdoor trend will be an important issue for many market players. And Alastair Humphreys, England’s best-known microadventurer is giving a keynote address on the first day of the show.

Microadventures are mini adventures that fit in with everyday life. They are simple and achievable, inexpensive and accessible to everyone. They are not organised events where success is guaranteed, there is no right or wrong. Exploring the unfamiliar on your doorstep is the name of the game. Microadventures generally take place close to home and require neither special equipment, nor extensive preparation. It’s all about being spontaneous, having fun, interacting with different kinds of environments and people and fitting it all in with your everyday life. The only rule is: leave the car at home - because travelling by car blinkers your perspective.

Overnight outdoor adventures, wild camping, even if only for one night, is the inspiration behind it. Antje von Dewitz, Vaude CEO, sees two issues as particularly important: "The trend towards urbanisation is having a knock-on effect: microadventures are attractive to people, as they are easy to combine with busy, modern lives. And more importantly, normal people can enjoy these adventures - there is no element of the extreme or elitism.” As a mountain sports equipment provider with a broad offer, the southern German company is a good starting point for microadventures on foot or by bike, and also provides plenty of inspiration on its YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbtaTQrJfLEh3whO1V7601sjwNgsQZB4y.

Jack Wolfskin also recognises that microadventures are perfect for outdoor fans. "Why not hike to the source of a river?” the German outdoor equipper is challenging supporters. It encourages fans to upload their photos with the hashtag #jackwolfskin to its facebook or instagram page to share their experiences with the outdoor community. British brand, Mountain Equipment, organises a WildNight event where it encouraged enthusiasts to, "Pack your bivouac gear and spend the night outdoors. No tents, just you and the stars. Have your own WildNight microadventure, wherever and whenever you want to.” Country Manager Germany, Tom Strobel explains, "Microadventures mean experiencing something extraordinary, they are an enriching experience and a welcome break from everyday life.”

Short, simple adventures, where you don't need much outdoor equipment? That’s right, say manufacturers. "It doesn’t always have to be about big sales. If users are enjoying themselves, then that’s good for retailers and the industry. Outdoor activities don’t always have to be extreme, but they should help build a strong, positive connection to nature and be genuine experiences,” says Thomas Groeger, Deputy CEO of Scandinavian manufacturer Fjällräven. Microadventures do exactly this - and can also be shared via social networks - inspiring others in the process.

Microadventures are going to be an important issue at this year’s OutDoor show in Friedrichshafen. There are a number of reasons for this. The Outdoor industry is looking for new goals and new target groups, and wants to position itself more broadly. In addition, microadventures are a definite trend. They fit neatly with busy, modern lifestyles, are spontaneous, offer a real change of perspective and don’t need much specialist equipment. As such, they are accessible to all.
Alastair Humphreys, the adventurer credited with inventing the term microadventure will be delivering a keynote speech on day one of the OutDoor show, on Sunday the 18th June. The British explorer is a well-known adventurer. After spending years on grand adventures, including travelling around the world by bike, crossing deserts and icy wastes unsupported and climbing big mountains, he was made "Adventurer of the Year” by the National Geographic Association in 2012 for his microadventures in Great Britain. These small, unusual, local trips began and ended at his doorstep. While others claim that their nine-to-five jobs are the reason why they don’t move enough, Alastair Humphreys takes advantage of the hours before and after work to escape from the daily grind. His microadventures include simply heading off to spend the night out on a nearby hill and then heading straight into work the next morning. His motto: “There are so many new things to discover right on your doorstep.”

For more information, please visit: www.outdoor-show.de.

Destination Mauritius - rebuiding former relationsships

Island of dreams in the middle of the Indian ocean for some travellers neighbouring the last European outpost, French overseas department La Réunion, a destination for reliable production of textiles and apparel for the European, notably German fashion market, this is the spectrum
of associations that Mauritius evokes in the heads of people. Mauritius looks back on a long time experience in producing textiles and apparel since its independence from Britain in 1968. Republic since 1992 the group of islands is one of the very few stable democracies in Africa.

Arvind Radhakrishna, CEO of Enterprise Mauritius, the organiser of the Mauritius day, April 5, 2017 at Düsseldorf Fashion House II, gives it a strong regret that the relation between Mauritius and Germany, mainly based on knitwear, dating back in the early 70ies nearly came to an end. The amount of textile exports into Germany in 2015 was just about 30 million Euros and counting. Anyhow this does not represent the strength of the Mauritian apparel industry which is a hub in the region with own inland production completed by production plants on the neighbour island Madagascar, in South Africa and some even in Bangladesh to serve a lower price level, which cannot be achieved with Mauritian production itself. In 2015, domestic exports to Europe accounted for 40 %, USA: 24% and South Africa: 21%. Charming is the fact that the delivery of Mauritian goods is duty free.

Strong support by the government

Interested buyers are heartily invited to come and see with their own eyes what the Mauritian textile and apparel industry can offer. This industry is one of the strong pillars of the gross domestic output. Others are tourism and - up and coming - the lapidary and jewellery industry. Traditional fields of production are spices, sugarcane products including rum or cosmetics.

To foster textiles and apparel exports the government sponsors airfreight costs by 40%, part of a holistic program in the speed to market scheme. To compare the benefits of Mauritius as a sourcing destination compared for example with China, besides the shorter distance, is that the minimum order quantities per style are much smaller than in China, the quality standard is high, the social compliance is given. Mauritian companies must spend 1% of their gains for Corporate Social Responsibility – CSR projects. Certificates such as BSCI, SA8000 or WRAP are common. Free entry to the EU market is guaranteed by the EU partnership agreement. And - a point that should not be neglected - most of the companies offer creative services executed by their inhouse design departments or people. This makes it clearer why the textile and apparel industry had been a strong engine for economic growth in Mauritius.

Main products are: T-Shirts, Polo Shirts, Shirts, Trousers & Denim, Pullovers & Cardigans, Formal Suits, Beachwear & Underwear, and Childrenswear etc. Main material used: cotton and its blends. There is a strong focus on knitted fabrics and jerseys of all kind paired with woven denims. The price segment of Mauritian clothing mainly ranges in the lower middle range. There is a high awareness for sustainability. The exporting companies aim to use eco-friendly substances in resources saving production processes. Laser technology for effects on denim is widely in use.

A look to the companies presenting

• FINE TEXTILES LTD
  Contact: Mamade Nohur 
  Tel.: +230 2661092/57321079
  E-mail: finetextileltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Polo shirts/T-shirts/Sweat shirts
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. per colour
  Fine Textiles mostly produce menswear. They distribute their garments under own label M*RIYANO and private label for their customers. The own label is calculated to compete with the Chinese market. Time from sample to delivery takes about 5 to 6 weeks.

• FIREMOUNT TEXTILES LTD / FM DENIM LTD
  Contact: Sangeeta Gobin
  Tel.: +230 2075836
  Email: sangeeta@firemount.mu
  Website: www.firemount.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim fabrics & Denim and Twill Jeans pants/Jackets/shirts/Shorts/Dresses
  Minimum order: 6000-7000 yd. fabric or 2500-3000 pcs. of jeans per order
  Certifications: WRAP
  The company is fully vertical and the biggest supplier of apparel in Mauritius, still growing, looking for direct relations to retailers. Due to the latest technologies available, the company aims to fulfil the needs for sustainable production. Stretch, even power stretch is used in nearly every jeans style.

• TEX KNITS LTD
  Contact: Suresh Radha
  Tel.: +230 2865577
  Email: info@texinternational.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim trousers, jackets, shirts etc. /Knitted garments for ladies, men and children
  Minimum order: 800 pcs. per style/colour
  Certifications: Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA)
  The knits company is part of a group offering garments in a broad range. To serve the UK market they run an office in London. The company puts a strong focus on design input for the international clients. Production plants in Madagascar and Bangladesh serves different price ranges.

• PALMAR LTEE
  Contacts: Yannick Capiron (Knits), Genevieve Marie Figaro (Denim)
  Tel.: +230 401 7000
  Email: y.capiron@palmar.intnet.mu; gfigaro@palmar.intnet.mu
  Type: CMT & Final Product
  Products: Jeans, Chinos, Shorts, Dresses, Skirts for kids, Women & Men
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. for jerseys; 800 pcs. for jeans
  Over two thirds of the production is for menswear. The company is a family business which takes special interest in sustainable and resources saving production. The knitting department is fully
  vertically integrated. A fair trade line is being offered, pure organic is in development.Contact: Ranil Gunasekara
  Tel.: +230 4130034
  Email: camdenimltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim jeans for men, women, children and toddlers
  Minimum order: 1200 per style
  The company solely works for private labels. The main market until now is South Africa. The production is going to be shifted to a higher percentage of eco-friendly production, representing 17% for the time being. Prices range in the upper middle segment.

• TARA KNITWEAR LTD
  Contact: Fabiola Law
  Tel.: +230 2123715/52553621
  Email: fabiolalaw@taragroup.intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: T-shirt, polo shirt, sweat shirt, hoody, short, pant, skirt, dress, baby grow, baby/kid swear accessories (beanie, bootie, blanket, sleeping bag, headband), sleepwear, loungewear
  Minimum order: Basic styles: 4000 units. Fancy styles: 1000-2000 units
  Certifications: BSCI
  Tara is very design oriented with a big in house design department open for design services to customers too. The company's organisation is vertically integrated. Modern equipment such as the
  Eton Mover system enables the company to react fast and operate Fast Track orders too.

• BEACHWEAR EXPORTS
  Contact: Mr. G.M Toolsee
  Tel.: +230 4545600
  Email: girdhar@beachwear.intnet.mu/beachwear@intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Swimwear and related products
  Minimum order: 300-500 units per style
  Certification: BSCI, SMETA, SEDEX
  All production is for private label. The company features as the leading supplier of swim and beach wear in Mauritius. Well known international brands are customers from US to Europe, mainly in Italy, France and UK as well as South Africa and Zimbabwe.