From the Sector

Lectra announces the signing of an agreement with the shareholders of the Belgium company Retviews to acquire 100% of capital and voting rights.

Founded in 2017, Retviews has developed an innovative technological offer that enables fashion brands to analyze real-time market data, in order to increase their sales and margins. Today, more than 30 brands use Retviews in France and Belgium.

As the role of lingerie in fashion and athleisure continues to augment, the desire for garments that will meet a new set of values for contemporary consumer lifestyles will flourish.  

ROICA™ - the pioneer of innovative stretch fibres, took this year’s Interfilière visitors on an inspirational journey, aimed at encouraging weavers, designers and brands to “engineer” their portfolio of products in new and exciting ways. The company sets a whole new standard in how creativity and responsibility can come together for a new generation of wardrobe solutions dedicated to the contemporary consumer, carving out a new kind of fashion future.

Below some unique developments born from the collaboration among ROICA™ and key premium brands:

COSABELLA produced by Collezioni SRL: The brand sells in over 100 countries, with a premium collection of 2000 styles for every sector of lingerie and leisurewear. Latest styles use a delicate floral lace by Tessitura Colombo Antonio made with ROICA™ V550 belonging to the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family for their more luxurious upscaled lines.

Livy selects Iluna Group’s contemporary graphic stretch lace with ROICA™ EF for the precious “BELLAGIO” line that includes a soft triangle bralette, a padded bra, a brief and a body for optimal comfort. The must-have range has a stunning aesthetic which represents the unique appeal of this lifestyle brand.

Sarah Borghi: the worldwide known brand of luxury Italian fashion hosiery, tights, and socks. They've dedicated more than 40 years scrutinizing the finest yarns and evolving technologies and breathing flawless life into their unique range of luxurious fashion. Today, Gizeta Calze S.r.l., owner of this brand, has developed the first line made out of sustainable ingredients that will be launched at the ROICA™ booth during Interfilière. The collection, developed in Italy by Almatex, blends together key smart fibers such as ROICA™ EF and Q-Nova®, and ROICA™ V550 with  AMNI SOUL ECO®. 

Vitamin A: the Californian brand offers a unique swimwear line rooted in female empowerment. Vitamin A’s beachwear is made with the finest materials and finishes, ensuring a product that will fit and wear beautifully for years to come. Among the  incorporated more sustainable high-performance fabrics shines a unique jacquard development by Maglificio Ripa with a 3D texture made with the GRS certified premium responsible stretch ROICA™ EF and Q-NOVA® by Fulgar. Vitamin A is a member of 1% For The Planet and  donate to environmental organizations who work to protect our oceans.

Wolford was one of the first brands to explore the real value of ROICA™. Known for its exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, lingerie and bodywear, the company has been striving to develop fully degradable items at the end of the product lifecycle. On top of last year’s award for being Cradle to Cradle Certified™ at GOLD Level certification for the biological cycle, Wolford was also recognised for its technical cycle using Econyl® yarn made by Aquafil (always blended with ROICA™ V550).

Each brand Partner brings a different yarn story firmly into the limelight, and all feature ingredients from the ROICA™ portfolio of yarns respecting the company’s commitment to ‘responsible innovation’, and which all boast important sustainable certifications.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG presented an energy-optimised new version of its industry-leading Montex stenter for the first time at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26th.

With the introduction of the new MonforClean exhaust air treatment system and other unique process innovations, Monforts has been able to further reduce the energy consumption of Montex stenters by a further 13%.

Exhaust air treatment on stenter frames has posed particular challenges over the years, since the air can contain significant amounts of oil, fibre and even wax particles that may see emissions limits being reached in the processing of certain fabrics, depending on the legal specifications.

In addressing this issue, Monforts is now incorporating the MonforClean module into the stenter frame, so there is no additional space requirement. At the same time, the costs for laborious secondary installations and the piping of the exhaust air treatment components, as well as supporting structures are eliminated due to the machine configuration.

Reinach, Switzerland  - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, recently launched at the ITMA exhibition its new Foron® SP-WF, a range of high wet-fast disperse dyes for sportswear and active wear applications.

The Foron® SP-WF dyes are especially suited for the coloration of polyester fibers and microfibers, and polyester/elastane blends, in exhaustion application.
The Foron® SP-WF dyes were developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

The new product is at the core of Archroma's Fast Sport, a coloration system for polyester knitted sportswear, providing the best fastness in the shortest possible time with a reduced environmental footprint.
The Foron® SP-WF range which includes primary and ternary color grades has been developed to fulfil the high color wet fastness and performance requirements of sportswear manufacturers and brands.
Moreover, the core ternary color grades enable deep shades at lower dyeing temperatures on sensitive polyester/elastane fabrics without causing excessive fiber damage, saving energy resources and meeting the high fastness demand of leading brand companies.

When using Foron® SP-WF dyes as part of the Fast Sport system, manufacturers can in many cases have the potential to significantly reduce their consumption of time, energy, chemical, and water, as well as their CO2 emissions.

“We see a growing demand for apparel in the sportswear and active wear segment, reinforced with the now installed athleisure trend,” says Mark Dohmen, Head of Archroma’s Competence Center Automotive and Synthetic Dyes. “Consumers want deep color that stays put on the fiber and brands are defining their requirements accordingly. With our Foron® SP-WF, we can offer to manufacturers of sportswear textiles a solution that combines high levels of wet fastness with high productivity and low resource consumption. Because it’s our nature!”

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Milano Unica fair with a range of innovations capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko – Tex®).

Bemberg™ opens its new Lining Showroom in New York in the heart of the Garment District. This is the first showroom totally dedicated to unique, high quality Bemberg lining fabrics. The initial focus will be on a homeland supply of Japanese-made lining manufacturers, introducing them to the market in a new and dynamic way.

The showroom hosted by CHH America, whose remit will be to communicate the advantage and values in choosing Bemberg™ for the best linings option, and how its unique, responsible profile can add quality and brand value appeal to tailoring based apparel brands, designers and upcoming fashion students. The unique offer from this showroom is a dedicated new stock service, managed by CHH, where they will deliver even small meterage on demand.

In addition to this service, Bemberg™ is pleased to present a full range of new fabric innovations at Premiere Vision New York. These include manufacturers from around the world including SMI, Sidonios, Ekoten, Ipeker and Silver from the US, as well as the luxury linings already installed at the showroom.

COMSAT is equipping its latest Tecmat sectional warping machine for weaving preparation with the new Eltex EyETM yarn tension monitoring system.

Unlike yarn tension monitors that are fitted solely on the weft insertion systems of weaving machines, the new Eltex technology is for the warping process prior to weaving – and instead of monitoring only the tension of the six-to-eight yarns fed by the weft insertion system the Eltex EyETM keeps a close eye on literally hundreds.

“Several hundred yarns can be fed from the creels during the warping process compared to only a few weft insertion yarns during weaving,” explains Brian Hicks, managing director of Eltex. “Tension monitoring for multiple ends has been a great challenge to achieve for us, but this new system generated tremendous interest at the recent ITMA 2019 textile machinery show and we already have systems in operation and orders on hand. The EyETM allows mills to greatly reduce problems.”

• Komfortable EDI-Anbindung für fast 1.200 Modehändler

 
Wer sein Modegeschäft effizient führen will, kommt speziell im mittleren Genre um den elektronischen Datenaustausch (EDI) kaum herum. Bei der konkreten Umsetzung hilft bereits seit 2001 das BTE Clearing-Center, das seine führende Stellung zuletzt weiter ausbauen konnte. Denn obwohl die Zahl der Mode-Unternehmen in Deutschland seit Jahren stetig sinkt, ist das Transaktionsvolumen des BTE Clearing-Centers in dieser Zeit stark gewachsen. Aktuell sind fast 1.200 Unternehmen mit ca. 3.600 POS aus dem Textil-, Schuh- und Lederwarenhandel angeschlossen – vom Monomarken-Store über Platzhirsch-Häuser bis zu größeren Modefilialisten.
 
Die Nutzer schätzen den problemlosen elektronischen Datenaustausch ohne nennenswerte Investitionen und bei niedrigen monatlichen Gebühren. Im Durchschnitt zahlen die angeschlossenen Modehändler nur etwa 50 Euro für diese EDI-Dienstleistung.
 
Auch die Zahl der angeschlossenen Lieferanten ist hoch. Insgesamt sind fast 600 Lieferanten mit rund 1.050 Markenkollektionen angebunden. Jährlich werden mittlerweile ca. 15 Millionen Daten konvertiert. Abgewickelt werden dabei folgende Geschäftsvorgänge: Artikelstammdaten/Preiskataloge (PRICAT), Bestellungen (ORDERS), Bestellbestätigungen (ORDRSP), Lieferscheine (DESADV), Abverkaufsmeldungen (SLSRPT), Lagerbestandsberichte (INVRPT), Rechnungen (INVOIC+eINVOIC), Wareneingangsmeldung (RECADV) und Zahlungsavise (REMADV).
 
Voraussetzung für die Nutzung des BTE Clearing-Centers ist lediglich die Anbindung des verwendeten EDV-Warenwirtschaftssystems. Rund 30 WWA-Systemanbiete des Textil-, Schuh- und Lederwarenhandels verfügen über die BTE-Schnittstelle. Die meisten der angeschlossenen Händler verwenden die Systeme von Fee und Prohandel, auf Platz 3 steht Advarics, das mit ihrer Cloud-Lösung im Fashionmarkt zuletzt stark zugelegt hat. In der Nutzer-Rangliste folgen dann: Limmersoft, DdD, Futura, Intelligix, Subsidia, HIS-Ariston, IRICS, BSP-BITS, Imperial, Landau, ECC/ETOS und BE-terna. Die Breite der verwendeten WWS-Systeme zeigt auch, wie groß das Spektrum der Clearing-Center-Nutzer mit Blick auf Unternehmensgröße, Lifestyle-Segment und Geschäftsmodell ist.
 
Hinweis: Neben dem Datenaustausch bietet das BTE Clearing-Center auch komfortable Archivlösungen und die papierlose, elektronische Rechnungsabwicklung. Informationen zum gesamten Angebot im Internet unter www.bte-clearing-center.de oder direkt beim BTE, Stefanie Fonrobert/Gudrun Höck, Tel. 0221/921509-12/11, E-Mail clearingcenter@bte.de.

The 2021 Schoeller Summer line makes a light-hearted impression that is inspired by PLAY. PLAY represents dynamic enjoyment and being part of a whole. Schoeller experiments with new innovative ideas and sustainable technologies, bringing lightness to the fabric and displaying huge respect for Mother Nature. The long-lasting, super-comfortable high-tech fabrics play around with the natural look but offer the functionality of synthetic materials, delight with fresh colouring and always stand for responsibly-produced textiles from Switzerland.

NATURAL TRAIL
Natural looks, warm sand, cactus or denim shades and bio-based technologies whet the appetite for an active summer. Totally uncomplicated, versatile and functional all describe the elastic, matt, light schoeller®-dynamic polyester quality in a linen look in shades of gold, green or blue. The comfortable, somewhat more compact schoeller®-dryskin double fabric in iceberg blue or sandy beige is reminiscent of linen but, thanks to its functional fibres on the inner side, surprises with outstanding moisture transport. Both are finished with the sustainable ecorepel® Bio technology, making them waterproof and feel equally comfortable worn during outdoor activities or in the city.

• With a turnover of EUR 513 million, the CHT Group achieved a 12% increase in sales
• The result was impaired by high raw material costs and currency effects
• Investments remain high - approximately 13 million EUR invested in production sites and new technologies worldwide
• The acquisition in silicone specialties is bearing fruit despite a shortage of raw materials on the market
• 2019 - moderately optimistic business expectations in a difficult market environment

The situation on the world market deteriorated further in 2018, not least due to the intensification of the trade conflict between the USA and China. However, the CHT Group was again able to close the financial year with an increase in turnover. With consolidated sales of 513 million EUR, the previous year's success in the Group was exceeded by 12%.