From the Sector

Flos and B&B Italia, furniture brands of Made in Italy design, take part in the Casa Italia Paris 2024 project, the hospitality house that will host the athletes and guests during the XXXIII Olympic Games, to be held in the French capital from 26 July to 11 August 2024.

Along with other design brands and contemporary Italian artists, the two companies participate for the first time at Casa Italia Paris 2024 showcasing their most iconic creations, both classic and contemporary, in the venue’s indoor and outdoor spaces, taking guests on a spectacular and evocative journey that epitomizes Italian elegance and beauty.

As Official Partner of Casa Italia Paris 2024, B&B Italia is furnishing the living, lounge and outdoor areas with some of its most recognisable products that combine unique design, quality, comfort and function as well as sustainability, an increasingly crucial element intrinsic to furniture designed to last over time. The UP Series by Gaetano Pesce, the Camaleonda sofa and Le Bambole seating by Mario Bellini, the Planck tables by Piero Lissoni, and the Allure O’ table and Flair O’ chairs by Monica Armani will furnish Casa Italia, highlighting a dialogue with the context through the choice of distinctive shapes, colours and materials.

The ongoing dialogue created by the brand’s products continues through to the outdoor lounge areas, where Casa Italia’s green spaces are dotted with products from the B&B Italia Outdoor collection, the brand’s outdoor furniture line launched in 2007. The Ribes sofas by Antonio Citterio, the Crinoline chairs by Patricia Urquiola and the Borea tables by Piero Lissoni will welcome athletes and guests creating stylish aesthetic synergies with the Le Pré Catelan gardens.

Flos has worked at the lighting project for Casa Italia Paris 2024 as Official Supplier, with the aim of making light a precious element for highlighting the works of art and the objects that enrich the setup of the Italian hospitality house, so that the exhibition and its narrative itinerary can be enjoyed both during daytime and nighttime hours. Light is used to shape the space in such a way as to create visual hierarchies among the superb items on display, without forgetting the ambient lighting needed for the celebratory events that will take place in the venue. The Flos lighting display includes some of the brand’s most recognisable suspension creations, such as cocoon models Taraxacum and Viscontea by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni and Zeppelin by Marcel Wanders. These interact with more recent and timeless collections, such as Glo-Ball by Jasper Morrison, Arrangements by Michael Anastassiades, IC and Captain Flint floor lamps, also by Anastassiades, and Bellhop Floor by Barber Osgerby.

For the exterior green spaces, Flos has chosen stylish outdoor floor lamps that create a harmonious dialogue with the surrounding architecture. These include Captain Flint Outdoor and IC Outdoor, designed by Michael Anastassiades, featuring bases in precious materials such as Tuscan imperial travertine and volcanic stone from the slopes of Mount Etna. Finally, Flos Architectural, the brand’s professional lighting division for large-scale projects, has equipped Casa Italia with innovative tech solutions that include The Tracking Magnet, an ingenious patented system with magnetic fastening LED lights in spot or linear versions for functional, efficient lighting that is also comfortable and non-invasive.

STOLL was also represented with a stand at this year's Pitti Filati. The flat knitting machine specialist of the KARL MAYER GROUP introduced its new trend collection NOCTURNO and developments from STOLL ITALIA, which were created in collaboration with the yarn manufacturer IAFIL Industria Ambrosiana Filati S.p.A. The digital software products of the CREATE family were demonstrated on request.

In addition to its participation as an exhibitor, STOLL, together with three other companies, led the "Training Days" project at Pitti Filati designed for the professional development of the entire community of operators.

STOLL's trade fair presentation at this year's Pitti Filati was organised by its subsidiary STOLL ITALIA and was a complete success.

Today more than ever, sustainability in the fashion sector is an imperative that is reshaping the dynamics of the sector. These are important changes driven both by increasing CSR regulations (for example, Business of Fashion revealed that, according to 87% of players, the new regulations will impact their company in 2024), and by consumers’ habits (increasingly sensitive to the topic and consequently more careful in purchasing choices). In this scenario, Lectra analyzed real-time data from Retviews – its artificial intelligence-based solution specialized in competitive intelligence and automatic benchmarking – and unveils how Retviews’ empowers brands to navigate the complexities of sustainable and optimized collection planning.

According to Retviews data, to face sustainability challenges and best orient in the current complex fashion landscape, it will be crucial for brands to keep 5 key indications in mind:

1. Planning sustainable collections
Faced with the new regulations, brands are called to rethink their strategies, without losing sight on performance. For this reason, brands are already moving to optimize and rationalize the creative processes of their collections with a view to sustainability. In particular, Retviews' real-time data analysis reveals a growing trend towards sustainability in the collections of leading brands, where there are important investments in sustainable fabrics for both upper and lower garments. In particular, in the "Top" section, shirts show the most significant growth year over year among the eco-responsible options.

2. Sustainable prices (in every sense)
In this context, the redefinition of prices requires a strategic balance between market dynamics and the consumer's willingness to pay for products redesigned in terms of CSR. Retviews data shows a significant increase in costs in sustainable top collections. However, has this shift affected stock levels?

3. Inventories: optimized management
Tracking stock levels is crucial to season management, as it helps identify best-selling items and trends, as well as identify which items would sell better at full price versus those that should be discounted.
The new premium prices for sustainable collections require optimization of the sales rate, a waste limitation to minimum and a reduction of unsold goods rate.
Analyzing the tops category - In the tops category, where sustainably made products prevail with significantly higher price points than generic tops, Retviews' real-time data reveals that sustainable collections boast a higher sell-out rate compared to non-sustainable products. This superior sell-out rate underscores consumers' willingness to pay a premium for sustainability

4. Traceability and certification of collections
Certification is essential in verifying sustainability claims, fosters trust and ensures compliance. Not only that, it is also important to understand the value of the certifications and which ones appear most frequently in the various markets so as to make targeted decisions and adapt the assortments accordingly. This also let brands to prioritize the right mix of fabrics that can reflect the desires of local consumers. Retviews data highlights a particular focus on “Recycled Claim Standard” (RCS) certification in Europe and on “Fair Trade” and “Good Cashmere Standard” certified garments in the United States.

5. Mix of sustainable fabrics
About environmental impact, fabrics also play a fundamental role. Through data-driven tools, brands are able to find valuable information on sustainable materials that are gaining tractions in collections and thus make informed and strategic decisions in the process of planning their creations.

The Circular Valley Convention is a new trade fair format organised by Messe Düsseldorf in cooperation with the non-profit Circular Valley Foundation and with scientific support from the renowned Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology called UMSICHT.

The convention looks at the circular economy from a holistic perspective: across industries and materials – and all phases of the circular economy, from smart circular design to the reuse and further utilisation of products.

As a central global platform for the circular economy, it brings together decision-makers and experts from business, academia, politics, and society in one place. Under the motto "Uniting Industries for a Circular Tomorrow", it promotes their networking in order to present and jointly develop circular solutions and processes and drive forward the transformation towards a circular economy.

Messe Düsseldorf is contributing its many years of expertise to the Circular Valley Convention stemming from a wide range of trade fairs such as K, interpack and drupa, which are closely related to the circular economy. The non-profit Circular Valley Foundation, the cooperation partner of the convention, has a comprehensive understanding of the circular economy and a large network. The scientific support provided by the Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology UMSICHT and the associated expertise round off the extensive professional support.

The Circular Valley Convention covers all phases of the circular economy: from the use of renewable raw materials to product design, manufacturing, logistics, and operations all the way through to collection, sorting, and recycling, featuring solutions for different material classes and value chains. The convention combines applied research and practice and is a content hub for top decision-makers and experts. With the guiding theme "Enabling Circular Economy", the focus is on three central topics that enable the transformation towards a circular economy:

• Enabling Value Chains: the implementation of efficient, sustainable, and cross-industry circular solution strategies to maximise the use of resources and make business models fit for the future.
• Enabling Technologies: the transfer of circular competencies such as redesign, refurbish, remanufacture & recycle. The goal is to optimise products and processes using technologies that comply with the principles of the circular economy.
• Enabling Materials: the promotion of the efficient use and recycling of various materials, aiming for the extension of product lifespans and the integration of cross-material circular strategies for the sustainable use of resources.

the Circular Valley Convention offers a three-part event format consisting of a conference, an expo, and a networking event on the evening of 12 March 2024. Over 100 high-calibre speakers are scheduled to attend the conference. More than 130 exhibitors and partners are expected to attend the expo, the marketplace for future-oriented circular solutions, which offers insights into new trends, innovations, and best practice examples.

TrusTrace, a SaaS company with a platform for product traceability and supply chain compliance in fashion and retail, announced the launch of its upgraded AI-powered Forced Labor Prevention (FLP) Solution, which will help brands proactively map out supply chains, screen it for risk, and efficiently gather evidence for regulatory compliance.

The Forced Labor Prevention solution combines the power of AI to manage large quantities of data from complex supply chains with scalable collection of primary data per purchase order, which is screened and validated for risk, ensuring brands have validated evidence at a product and shipment level.

The solution collects primary data directly from suppliers to ensure detailed and reliable information about facilities, products, and materials. The primary data collected through the TrusTrace solution is specific to the context of the traced products, contrary to solutions leveraging third party data, which can introduce large quantities of irrelevant information from various sources, creating ‘noise’ that can obscure critical insights and quickly become unmanageable. TrusTrace has traced more than two million purchase orders to date and has more than 55,000 suppliers and facilities mapped globally, demonstrating the capacity to automate the collection of primary data at very large scale.

The data is proactively screened for risk against the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) entity list, and the solution can integrate with any relevant risk screening database.

AI-Powered Chain of Custody Creation and Document Collection drives speed, accuracy and cost savings, making it quick and easy to gain supply chain visibility and stay on top of documentation for compliance. The FLP solution can classify, extract, and translate large volumes of documents in over 100 languages, facilitating the creation of a digital chain of custody, and transforming traditionally time-consuming manual processes, increasing efficiency, and reducing the likelihood of human error.

15 brands worldwide are already using TrusTrace for forced labor prevention, including Vera Bradley, who see proactive supply chain traceability and data management as key in achieving their ESG commitments.

CARBIOS and TOMRA Textiles, a tech venture set up by the sorting technology company TOMRA, announce the signing of an agreement to collaborate on establishing an efficient stream in Northern Europe from textile waste collection, sorting and preparation to recycling using CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology at its first commercial plant currently under construction in Longlaville, France

The monomers obtained will be used to produce recycled polyester (r-PET) fiber, closing the loop for polyester textile circularity.

The innovations from both TOMRA Textiles and CARBIOS contribute to addressing critical gaps in the value chain and significantly increase textile-to-textile recycling from its current rate of 1%¹. By accelerating a circular economy for polyester, a sustainable alternative to incineration or landfill is made available.

TOMRA Textiles is on a mission to close the gap in textile circularity, by contributing to designing and scaling textile sorting plants. Under this partnership agreement, TOMRA Textiles will explore specific, tangible measures to enable the preparation of post-consumer polyester waste for biorecycling according to CARBIOS’ specifications.

CARBIOS' biorecycling technology involves breaking down polyester fibers into their basic components using enzymes, which are then used to produce high-quality recycled PET materials such as fibers for the textile industry. The breakthrough collaboration with TOMRA will redirect the challenging PET fraction of polyester textile waste towards biorecycling, showcasing a mutual dedication to pioneering recycling solutions for a circular economy.

¹ Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017

The Western Development Commission (WDC) announces the successful funding of the THREAD project. Supported by the Interreg Northern Periphery and Arctic Programme, THREADs (Textile and Habiliment Reuse for the Environment and NPA Area Development) is set to launch a transformative three-year initiative starting in September 2024, focusing on innovative textile waste management.

THREADs aims to significantly reduce textile waste in the Northern Periphery and Arctic region. With a total budget of €1.5 million, the project will implement a range of innovative approaches across the textile lifecycle—from design to disposal. This initiative includes trialling smart waste collection methods, enhancing circular practices, and integrating social inclusion initiatives in circularity efforts. Additionally, the project will explore new business models to support sustainable practices.

The project unites a diverse group of partners from across Europe, reflecting a collaborative effort to tackle an urgent environmental issue. The lead partner, Kajaani University of Applied Sciences from Finland, is joined by other key stakeholders including the Municipality of Kittilä, Kiertokaari Ltd, Remiks Husholdning AS from Norway, Technological University of the Shannon – Forge Design Factory from Ireland, University of Boras and Lulea Miljoresurs AB from Sweden, and the Icelandic Textile Center.

The funding announcement marks a crucial step towards implementing effective solutions that address both the environmental impact of textile waste and the challenges posed by fast fashion in sparsely populated areas. By focusing on sustainability and efficient resource use, THREADs is poised to create meaningful change in the way textile management is approached in the NPA region.

adidas unveils its FW24 London Tennis Collection – a range of apparel crafted with comfort in mind – including seamless material construction, to help players focus whilst performing in major moments on grass court.

Although a pure-white color spectrum is found across the entire collection, raised structures implemented on the base of select pieces, create the appearance of darker shadows that flow throughout - celebrating the different shades of light seen on a grass court during the summer months.

Supporting the demands of grass court tennis, the collection has been crafted for added mobility, unlocked by adidas’ FreeLift Construction – which incorporates adaptive stretch areas under the arm of each garment, to offer players a greater range of motion.

To help players in the heat of the moment, the collection also includes adidas’ AEROREADY technology, which uses sweat-wicking or absorbent materials to keep players feeling dry. This combines with AIRCHILL for the AIRCHILL FreeLift T-Shirt Pro – an adidas technology that supports players feeling cool through thermally zoned, raised pattern motifs and mesh layers, helping to optimise airflow during high-intensity workouts and matches.

The collection premiers at the summer London tournaments and will be worn by athletes including Caroline Wozniacki, Elina Svitolina, Xinyu Wang, Dana Mathewson, Jessica Pegula, Maria Sakkari, Angelique Kerber, Camila Osorio, Daria Kasatkina, Stefanos Tsitsipas, Alexander Davidovich-Fokina, Felix Auger-Aliassime, Martin de la Puente, Francisco Cerundolo, Jakub Menšík, Alex Michelsen and Luca Nardi.

The Fashion for Good Museum publishes its legacy document. The report was prompted by the museum’s closure on June 5th, 2024. It represents the museum’s mission, summarising invaluable insights gathered over six years and key results such as reaching 115.000 visitors and creating a dedicated community of more than 250.000 followers online. Committed to transparency and collaboration, Fashion for Good shares its reflections, tools, and transferable learnings, as well as the future of its collections and next steps, continuing to inspire positive change within the fashion ecosystem. All information can be accessed on the Fashion for Good website for continued use and benefit of educators, the cultural sector, and the wider public.

Looking back on its journey, the Fashion for Good Museum celebrates achievements such as hosting 115.000 visitors, including 8.000 students from 200 schools, curating 13 exhibitions, offering over 75 events, launching 4 educational programmes, reaching both current and future generations, and inspiring many to drive change in the fashion industry. With an earned media value of over 46 million Euros through press coverage since 2017, Fashion for Good's influence has been significant, evident in its 250.000 social media followers and 15.000 newsletter subscribers.

The report fulfils the promise Fashion for Good made in 2017 – to share their journey, learnings, and most impactful activities with the world. Within these pages, readers will discover reflections on their messaging, insights about creative partnerships with entities such as Lowlands Festival, Dutch Design Week, and Museumnacht to case studies of pioneering exhibitions. Their programming was created around themes and topics, such as the untold stories around cotton, circularity, and the future of biomaterials to educate and inspire visitors, ultimately empowering them to take action themselves.

Reflecting on the output of the museum during its short existence, as well as its footprint and wide reach, while acknowledging the challenges encountered during its establishment and development, Fashion for Good distilled six key lessons from Fashion for Good's sustainable museum practices:

• Recognition of Broader Shift: There is a wider movement towards sustainability in the museum sector, exemplified by Fashion for Good and the new ICOM definition.
• Storytelling for Societal Change: Cultural institutions are crucial in driving societal change in fashion consumption through storytelling.
• Innovation through Limitations: Embracing organisational limitations can stimulate innovation in museum collection management and education.
• Audience Engagement: Understanding and expanding the core audience is essential for effective engagement in sustainability initiatives.
• Measuring Impact: It's challenging to measure impact for organisations with social missions, requiring clear success criteria.
• Establishing a Sustainability Framework: Defining sustainability within context is fundamental for organisational sustainability efforts.

Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd., the Teijin Group’s fibers and products converting company, announced the development of a new, multifunctional and comfortable polyester material that combines high breathability and UV protection. This new product reproduces the structure of a traditional Japanese "Sudare" blind (bamboo blind), which allows breezes to pass through while blocking out sunlight.

As extremely high summer temperatures become increasingly common, Teijin Frontier developed this new polyester to meet market demands for materials with enhanced heat protection functions. Heat protection encompasses breathability, UV resistance and anti-stickiness. However, until now, breathability – achieved by gaps between fibers – and UV protection were thought to be mutually exclusive.

To solve this dilemma, the company created a structure with slit-shaped, highly breathable areas in either the warp or weft direction of the fabric. These three-dimensional gaps, similar to those in a bamboo blind, allow the material to deliver both excellent breathability and high UV blocking performance of 85 percent or more. The structure allows air permeability of 50㎤/㎠・s or more.

This new product also offers sustainability benefits through the incorporation of recycled polyester in part. Its structure and elastic fibers provide stretch performance, while an uneven surface caused by differences in thread shrinkage and its structure avoid stickiness. Moreover, to achieve the combination of functions, Teijin Frontier also adopt special high-shrinkage technology and dying finishing technology. This material offers potential for use in both fashion and casual clothing.

Teijin Frontier will begin promoting this product for the 2025 spring and summer fashion and casual clothing collections in Japan, aiming for sales of 250,000 meters in fiscal 2024 and 750,000 meters in fiscal 2027.