From the Sector

Fashion giant H&M Group and Danish retailer Coop are joining chemical expert NGO ChemSec’s call to action to end the use of harmful PFAS chemicals in products and supply chains.
This commitment comes on the same day as award-winning actor Mark Ruffalo and director Todd Haynes address the EU Parliament to speak about the true story that inspired the duo’s latest film Dark Waters, in which an environmental attorney takes on chemical giant DuPont and exposes decades of PFAS pollution.
ChemSec’s corporate PFAS initiative includes:

• A call on policy makers to regulate PFAS efficiently, without the possibility for manufacturers to simply swap one PFAS chemical for an unregulated “cousin”.
• A call on the chemical industry to put money into innovation and develop safer alternatives to PFAS for all kinds of products.
• A recognition that PFAS are a major health and environmental problem.
• A serious commitment to end all non-essential PFAS uses in products and supply chains.
• A call on all other brands to join this commitment and work towards a phase-out of PFAS in all kinds of consumer products.

The single biggest problem with PFAS is that, with very few exceptions, they are perfectly legal to use. This means that the brands and retailers who want to stop it from being used as ingredients in their products have very limited ways of communicating this in the global supply chain. As long as there is not a restriction in place, suppliers will continue to use these very effective chemicals in manufacturing.  

PFAS, short for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, is a chemical family consisting of almost 5,000 industrially produced chemicals. In manufacturing, PFAS are favoured for their durability and well-functioning properties; they provide properties such as non-stick, water repellence and anti-grease to many types of products, including cosmetics, food packaging, frying pans, outdoor gear and firefighting foam.
The industrial use of PFAS has been so prevalent in the last decades that today 99% of every human, including foetuses, have measurable levels of PFAS in their bloodstreams.   
What is worrying is that human epidemiological studies have found associations between PFAS exposure and a number of health disorders, including various cancers, lowered birth weights and negative effects on the immune system.

The company announced that its three textile fairs in Shanghai will be postponed from March to a later date due to the Novel Coronavirus outbreak. This includes Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition, Yarn Expo Spring and Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition which were due to be held in Shanghai from 11 – 13 March at the National Exhibition and Convention Center.

This follows the recent announcement that the company’s other fairs to be held in China in the coming two months – Prolight + Sound Guangzhou, SPS – Industrial Automation Fair Guangzhou (SIAF) and Asiamold in Guangzhou, and Toy & Edu, Baby & Stroller and Licensing China in Shenzhen – have also been postponed until later in the year.

“Messe Frankfurt has been an active player in the China market for over 30 years now, so we stand fully behind the government’s efforts to control the outbreak,” Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd outlined. “This includes the recent suspension of large-scale trade and economic events in a number of cities, so with this and the wellbeing of all our stakeholders in mind, we have made the decision to reschedule our upcoming textile fairs in Shanghai to a later date. Our teams are making every effort to find suitable alternatives, but we will only make the decision to go ahead with these fairs when it is deemed safe to do so.”

At JEC World 2020, MECELEC COMPOSITES is a finalist of the JEC Innovation Awards in the Design & Furniture category. The Group announces the launch of a new sustainable development application on the urban design market. MECELEC COMPOSITES designed the first mass-produced flax fibre roofs for the 550 Morris columns installed by JCDecaux in Paris. “This is the first application of flax fibre BMC for mass production. The new solution combines all the advantages of composite materials, lightness and strength, with stringent environmental requirements and is adapted to the safety constraints of this kind of street furniture,” says Bénédicte Durand, Chief Executive Officer at MECELEC COMPOSITES.

A COMPOSITE ROOF THAT IS BOTH INNOVATIVE AND GREEN
The dome of the Morris columns is composed of 23 different parts, 14 of which are made from composite materials. To design the roof, MECELEC COMPOSITES developed a new RTM complex and a new BMC material, that is reinforced exclusively with a flax mat. “Today it is the only BMC with a 100% flax fibre reinforcement, which uses a partially recycled ABS resin. It was created specifically for this project and we had to work on the processes in order to adapt them to this new material,” explains Bertrand Vieille, Head of sales.
In the design, MECELEC COMPOSITES replaced the bonding process with a time-saving mechanical assembly process using an invisible fixing system.

AN ECO-FRIENDLY APPLICATION IN LINE WITH THE GROUP’S ECO-DESIGN CSR APPROACH
MECELEC COMPOSITES creates scalable, sustainable and environmentally-friendly street furniture. The Group is committed to developing a sustainable production process and reuses all its waste materials. MECELEC COMPOSITES R&D laboratory promotes eco-design with a process of characterisation and mechanical sizing of parts. “For this project, we imagined, created, produced and delivered a mass-produced composite application with a low environmental impact within less than a year. At the end of its lifecycle, the product completely breaks down, leaving no fibre residue,” Bénédicte Durand concludes.

The Trevira CS joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 was once again a success.

Trevira looks back on a successful trade fair appearance at Heimtexil 2020. The concept of a joint booth together with customers along with the presentation of product innovations and a special exhibition dedicated to the contract sector has once again proved its worth. Trevira hosted 31 co-exhibitors thus increasing the number of participants again compared to last year. Members of the entire textile value chain were present at the Trevira stand: from the fibre production and yarn manufacture, to the colouring, weaving and warp and weft knitting stages, to the textile editor.

Klaus Holz, CEO Trevira GmbH: „We are pleased about the very positive feedback we got on our joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 from our customers and the visitors to our stand. It shows that our concept is successful and that the booth works well as a market place for Trevira CS.”

Product novelties were presented in an Innovation Park. Under the headline “Recycling at Trevira” the fibre producer presented its sustainable product range and diversified approaches to recycling: flame retardant fibres are produced from residual materials, which are reprocessed in an agglomeration plant. The recyclates are then deployed in the spinning facility to make new, high-quality products consisting of 100 % pre-consumer recycled material. Recycled, flame retardant filaments are produced from PET bottles and have a recycled content of 50 %. Standard polyester spun-dyed filament yarns are also available in a recycled version. Produced from PET bottles these yarns have a recycled content of 100 %.

In order to produce flame retardant fabrics which are also high-performing  in outdoor applications, Trevira now offers six more colours in addition to the existing colour range of 24 UV-stable, spun-dyed filament yarns. Trevira had been awarded the „Brandenburger Innovationspreis Kunststoffe und Chemie 2019“ for this innovation.

Cationic dyeable fibres and filament yarns enhance the Trevira portfolio of flame retardant specialties. They are used to create melange designs in fabrics, which still represents a strong trend in the home textile sector.

To meet the ever more complex demands of the market for more flexibility in design and additional functions as well as for sustainable products Trevira has introduced an enhanced Trevira CS branding concept, consisting of the three brands Trevira CS, Trevira CS flex und Trevira CS eco. Assigned according to product features, all of them stand for tested safety.

The must-have fabrics platform for activewear and sportswear apparel, developed by ISKO, will be featuring in the Munich arena showcasing its Responsible Innovation™ approach resulting once more in groundbreaking performance properties.

ISKO returns once again to ISPO, Hall C1 – Booth 401, to present its pioneering innovation in the world of sportswear and activewear. The leading denim ingredient brand will be presenting the latest edition of ARQUAS™, the much-loved fabrics platform set to bring about an even more responsible era.

Featuring 35 fabrics, most of which are made with certified recycled materials, ARQUAS™ 6.0 combines high-performance properties with the mill’s Responsible Innovation™ approach – a holistic vision based on creativity, competence and citizenship that constantly defines new standards.

Although many of the textile concepts included in the collection may have the look and hand feel of knitted fabrics, they are all woven, thus ensuring superior durability and greater recovery. Among the many qualities that come with ARQUAS™ 6.0, moisture management, UV and wind protection, heat retention, water and stain repellency stand out. Nylon, which is used for the first time in this edition, allows for super light woven and cozy outdoor fabrics, reversible and packable styles, as well as patented fabrics, such as 4 waystretch ISKO Blue Skin™ for a 360° elasticity. Finally, the collection offers super compact fabrics that are made suitable also for fully bonded garments with body shaping and high recovery properties.

To provide trailblazing inspiration to its customers, ISKO’s world-class design team have created both a men’s and women’s garment collection based on three lifestyles – active, outdoor and club sports.

ACTIVE: Ideal for a wide range of sports from yoga to fitness to running. Whether participating in highor low-impact activities, these fabrics perfectly fulfill the technical requirements of athleisure and performance-wear apparel.

OUTDOOR:
Fabrics that stand for superior comfort, durability, water repellency and breathability, protecting the wearer from the elements of nature in any kind of setting.

CLUB SPORTS:
From the perfect golf swing to a wild horse ride, essential features such as maximum flexibility, fit and performance make these the ultimate textile concepts for the sportswear market.

Der Deutsche Exzellenz-Preis 2020 für herausragende Produkte, Dienstleistungen, Kampagnen, Initiativen, Manager und Macher der Deutschen Wirtschaft ging am Abend des 23. Januar an 46 digitale, innovative und kreative Unternehmen – darunter 15 Start-ups und vier Publikumspreisträger.

Der Deutsche Exzellenz-Preis wurde zum  insgesamt dritten Mal verliehen. Die Initiatoren, das Deutsche Institut für Service-Qualität (DISQ), das DUB UNTERNEHMER-Magazin und der Nachrichtensender n-tv würdigen damit herausragende und zukunftsweisende Leistungen der deutschen Wirtschaft. Digital, innovativ, kreativ: Für diese Kriterien wurden neben renommierten Unternehmen wie Lufthansa, Otto, comdirect oder der Unternehmensberatung Roland Berger auch 15 Start-ups – wie zum Beispiel die digitale Kreationsplattform Storyliner – ausgezeichnet. Eine hochkarätig besetzte Jury aus Wirtschaft, Wissenschaft und Medien hatte aus 133 Bewerbungen die besten 42 mit dem Prädikat „Exzellent“ bewertet. Vier weitere Unternehmen wurden durch den Publikumspreis prämiert. Schirmherrin Brigitte Zypries, Bundesministerin a. D., überreichte die Trophäen an die Sieger. Nach der feierlichen Preisverleihung in der Berliner Bertelsmann Repräsentanz trafen sich Manager*innen, Start-up-Gründer*innen, Digitalexperten*innen und Kreative zum Networking.

In Ihrer Keynote betonte Brigitte Zypries eine positive Entwicklung des vergangenen Jahrzehnts: „Die letzten zehn Jahre haben Frauen deutlich nach vorne gebracht“. Und das ist eine wesentliche Basis für Digitalisierung, Innovation und Kreativität. Sie erinnerte jedoch das Publikum daran, dass Frauen noch immer nicht in genügender Anzahl in Führungspositionen eingesetzt werden. Ihr Appell: „Wir müssen diverser werden und das einander Zuhören wieder lernen, denn nur so können auch traditionelle Unternehmen den Weg in die Zukunft schaffen“.

Kategorie „Aus- und Weiterbildung“: Die Lufthansa Virtual Reality Weiterbildung
Einer der Gewinner des Abends war der „Pre-Flight Cabin Check“ von Lufthansa Aviation Training. Die 20-minütige Virtual Reality Trainings-Lösung schult Flugbegleiter mittels hochauflösender VR-Brillen und haptischer Gestensteuerung, vor dem Flug im an Bord versteckte, verbotene Gegenstände zu identifizieren. Eine bidirektionale Schnittstelle gibt Feedback zu den Lernerfolgen und ermöglicht so die effektive Nutzung.

Doppelt geehrt: Die comdirect bank siegte in zwei Kategorien
Gleich zweimal mit dem Deutschen Exzellenz-Preis ausgezeichnet wurde die comdirect bank. In der Kategorie „Apps“ gewann „Chat Order“, die erste App für den einfachen digitalen Wertpapierhandel. Die Jury bescheinigt „Chat Order“ einen „hohen Wirkungsgrad und hohen Nutzen“. In der Kategorie „Führung und Verantwortung“ siegte die comdirect bank mit ihrer Innovationsinitiative „Start-up Garage“, die Workshops, Wettbewerbe und Start-up-Kooperationen einschließt.

Start-up Storyliner demokratisiert das Marketing
In der Kategorie „Digitale Services B2B“ siegte das Hamburger Start-up Storyliner. Der Chatbot ist der erste digitale Content-Assistent für die Erstellung digitaler Inhalte, der Nutzer berät, was sie schreiben sollen, wie sie es formulieren und wann und wo sie es veröffentlichen sollen. Storyliner berät automatisiert, empfiehlt konkrete Inhaltselemente, generiert und optimiert fertige Stories. Auszeichnungswürdig, wie die Jury meint.

Publikumspreis
Erneut waren die Leser des DUB UNTERNEHMER-Magazins dazu aufgerufen, in vier Kategorien Preisträger*innen zu küren. Den Publikumspreis erhielten das Kölner Start-up m.Doc für Patientenkommunikation im Krankenhaus, die W. Schillig Polstermöbelwerke mit ihrem 3-D-Polstermöbelkonfigurator, developHER von Otto sowie das Automated-Machine-Learning-Tool von Weidmüller Interface.

The Oerlikon Nonwoven experts will be presenting efficient solutions and comprehensive technology know-how for challenging filtration tasks to an international trade audience at the FiltXPO 2020 in Chicago, USA (Stand # 420), taking place between February 26 and 28.

Meltblown technology is one of the most efficient methods for producing very fine and highly-separating filter media made from manmade fibers. New, unique and highly-sophisticated filter media are easy to manufacture thanks to Oerlikon Nonwoven’s optimized meltblown technology. This process is characterized by its constant melt pressure distribution and consistent dwell time across the entire width of the spinning beam, Furthermore, the novel guidance and distribution of the process air outside the coathanger distributor offered by the Oerlikon Nonwoven technology prevents so-called hotspots, which overall ensures particularly homogeneous nonwoven properties and basis weights even in the case of delicate raw materials.

The Oerlikon Nonwoven charging unit stands out against other concepts currently available on the market. Users can freely choose from a large number of variation possibilities and set the optimum charging method depending on the filter application, allowing the Oerlikon Nonwoven charging unit to also be used for the manufacture of EPA- and HEPA-class filter media.

The new forming section ensures improved nonwoven formation evenness across the entire width, even in the case of high spinning speeds, special polymers and polymer combinations. In addition to this, the newly-designed system also ensures that nonwovens only require minimal edge trimming at the end of the production process. The newly-developed mixedfiber technology enables the combining of various filament cross-sections and polymers, in order to set ideal filtering and pleating performances, for example.

The origins of both Industry 4.0 and an awareness of the need for more sustainable manufacturing methods can arguably be traced back to the year 1971.

It was in 1971 that the first microprocessor was introduced by Intel, and also that the first and perhaps now most well-known environmental campaigner, Greenpeace, was founded.

As such, a direct line can be charted from that year to today’s automated textile manufacturing machinery concepts, as well as the drive to develop more increasingly resource-efficient processes.

All of the recent innovations which have been introduced to the market by A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, for example, are being powered by the possibilities of Industry 4.0 and developed in response to the market demand for more sustainable production.

They include the new ‘digital twinning’ capability introduced in 2019 for all Monforts machines, with advanced sensor technologies which make it possible to access comprehensive technical machine data from any location using the company’s Smart Support and Smart Check apps. In addition, the digital twin system provides information on individual wear parts, such as, for example, converters or gears.

These latest developments have been very favourably received by Monforts customers, especially in Europe.

50th anniversary
The very first Heimtextil – the leading trade fair for the home textiles market – was also held in Frankfurt in January 1971 and Monforts customers Bierbaum Group and Konrad Hornschuch AG are amongst the German companies who were there from the very start and have attended every annual show since.

Bierbaum Group, based in Borken, is the company behind the well-known Irisette bedding brand and is celebrating its own 125th anniversary in 2020. It has also introduced products bearing the German government’s new Grüner Knopf textile seal of approval for sustainable production.

As a specialist in synthetic leathers for home surfaces, as well as vehicle interiors, Konrad Hornschuch AG, of Weissbach, has been a member of the €44 billion automotive giant Continental AG since 2016.

Representatives from both companies received memorial trophies at a special presentation held on January 7th during the 50th anniversary Heimtextil show.

The home textiles market remains very strong in Germany, with sales amounting to some €9.6 billion in 2019, according to analyst IFH Cologne.

Global growth
The first Heimtextil in 1971 was a significant success, attracting 679 exhibitors from 26 countries.

This year’s show, however, attracted a total of 2,952 exhibitors from 66 countries, reflecting not only the growth of the home textiles industry, but also the globalisation which has taken place over the last half century.

Monforts now has customers for its advanced finishing technologies around the world, with home textile customers from India and Pakistan being particularly well represented at Heimtextil 2020.

Among stand outs from Indian companies at this year’s show was the 2020 collection of Welspun India’s famous Christy England brand, inspired by botanical studies of the gardens of British stately homes. Welspun towels meanwhile benefit from the company’s HygroCotton hollow core yarn technology, produced by a proprietary spinning method which ensures they become softer, fluffier and more absorbent after every wash.

An equally ground-breaking new technology is being introduced by Trident Group, which is one of India’s largest vertically-integrated home textiles manufacturers and two years ago installed five complete Monforts finishing ranges for its new linen department.

Trident’s patented Air Rich yarns feature pores throughout their cross sections for high breathability and absorbency, as well as rapid drying.

Monforts home textile customers from Pakistan stressed the resource efficiency of their processes and products as a result of investments in advanced technology, and during the show the ‘Sustainable Pakistan’ initiative was announced.

Supported by GIZ, the German Society for International Cooperation, the initiative aims to reshape global perceptions of Pakistan’s manufacturers and their innovations. So far, twenty producers have been carefully chosen to be presented on this global platform and will help rebrand Pakistan’s textile industry at the Heimtextil exhibitions going forward.

Heimtextil’s organiser Messe Frankfurt also announced its own new alliance with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, in order to support the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.

Constancy
Many things have changed since 1971 and home interiors are certainly no longer predominantly orange and brown – and perhaps unlikely to ever become so again.

It’s clear, however, that there has been a constancy in the push to consistently improve textile technologies, processes and products that may have originated in Europe, but have subsequently spread around the world.

And the significance of both microprocessors and sustainability in 2020 could only have been guessed at back in 1971.

Mimaki Europe announced that it will exhibit its broad portfolio of cutting-edge digital print technologies at Salon C!Print (4 – 6 February, Lyon, France). This will include the first showing in France of the company’s brand-new SWJ-320EA large format solvent printer, JFX200-2513 EX large flatbed UV inkjet printer and two models of the recently launched Plus series.

Visitors to the Mimaki booth (2L22) will experience the extensive business-enhancing applications possible with the company’s range of sign graphics, industrial products and textiles printers. Crucially, these printing platforms are designed to enable large format print service providers to achieve unparalleled flexibility and enhanced application opportunities for increased and diversified business growth. Mimaki will have eight printers in operation at the exhibition, with highlights including:

• Mimaki JFX200-2513 EX: A large flatbed UV inkjet printer.
• Mimaki SWJ-320EA: A super-wide solvent printer.
• JV300-160 Plus: A next-generation eco-solvent/sublimation printer.
• CG-160FXll Plus: An advanced multi-cutting plotter.

“At Salon C!Print Mimaki will confirm its leading role as a strong, customer- and service-oriented technology provider to the visual communication industry,” says Danna Drion, Marketing Manager at Mimaki EMEA. “We have a fantastic range of ground breaking, advanced print solutions to showcase on our booth, together with an incredibly comprehensive range of applications in different markets. Our aim is to attract visitors to the foremost print show in France with printing technologies and application opportunities that are relevant to them and their businesses, and also stimulate new ideas,” concludes Drion.

Iluna is bringing to the Parisian leading trade show for lingerie Interfilière its responsible offer and a unique Yoga capsule collection. The Yoga Capsule collection is characterized by the inclusion of responsible premium ingredients such as GRS certified Q-NOVA®, made for more than half by pre-consumption waste, and the GRS certified premium stretch yarn ROICA™ EF constructed out of more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content. Unique added value of the capsule is that it is enriched by natural based GOTS certified dyestuffs, a safe alternative to the chemical ones. A collection with a ten shades color offer strictly linked to the seasonality with high color fastness and durability respondent to the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification.