From the Sector

How to recognize truly sustainable fashion? How can responsible recycling of garments and fabrics - as well as new formulas for circular economy - make a difference in fighting the climate emergency? These are just some of the topics addressed during THE TEXTILE LIBRARY CIRCULAR SYMPOSIUM, the open-ended program of virtual meetings with some of the most influential fashion and sustainability experts organized by the Museo del Tessuto di Prato in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub.

The museum and the international platform that creates awareness and supports professionals who believe in fashion and sustainable textiles have joined forces to talk not only to fashion enthusiasts but to everyone, and explore a hot and often underestimated topic that involves everyday life. The series of meetings deepens and complements the new section entirely dedicated to circular textiles in the museum's Textile Library.

Like a real symposium, THE TEXTILE LIBRARY CIRCULAR SYMPOSIUM is a conversation arena involving 10 game changers who have been able to innovate not only with high-tech and responsible products and materials but also with new formulas, business models and production systems that respect the planet and people. Among the speakers of the cycle, visionary innovators who generate change at all levels: from the entire production system and beyond to retailers, leading international brands, research companies and communication experts, all the way to the final consumer.

The first appointment is Wednesday, May 13 at 5 pm CEST with the talk THE SUSTAINABLE PERSPECTIVE. True sustainable fashion is a choral and capillary system in which every actor plays a fundamental role. During the meeting, professionals from different fields, from cultural institutions to industrial production, from marketing to retail, will share their perspective on sustainability.

Recycling is the key word in THE SECOND CHANCE, the second meeting scheduled for June 10 h. 5 p.m CEST.

On September 29, also at 5 p.m. CEST, appointment for the talk A TICKET TO FASHION... AND BACK entirely dedicated to the new models of circular economy.

You can register here.

International technology Group ANDRITZ has always been at the forefront in providing innovative and sustainable solutions for the global nonwovens industry. Optimization of resource management, especially reducing the consumption of raw materials and other substances used and also keeping resources in use for as long as possible, are decisive factors in enabling nonwovens producers to offer competitive and sustainable products.

As a world market leader for nonwovens production equipment and services, ANDRITZ offers a full range of products to meet these challenging demands.

Maximizing the evenness of the product across the entire production line is one of the key success factors. The weight profiling product range of ANDRITZ – consisting of ProDynTM and ProWidTM – has been extended by ProWinTM. This new development is the combination of the two existing systems ProDynTM and ProWidTM. It allows nonwovens producers to achieve optimum weight profiling at the crosslapper delivery and increase their process speed by up to 15% at the same time. ProWin combines the long-term process experience and in-depth knowledge ANDRITZ has on needlepunch lines with innovative software to synchronize action across the line. Guillaume Julien, Head of Needlepunch Sales at ANDRITZ Nonwoven, explains,

“We have developed a self-regulating, advanced technology to reduce fiber deposits at the edges of the web and eliminate the “smile” effect across its width. ProWin enables producers to optimize the CV ratio autonomously and precisely while also generating significant fiber savings of up to 10% and increasing production speed. Thus, it also provides a faster ROI.“

When it comes to the spunlace process, a better product quality can be obtained by ensuring that the different equipment units in the production line are consistent with one another. The TT card, the Jetlace hydroentanglement unit, and the neXdry through-air dryer are the perfect combination to obtain premium visual quality and characteristics in the web. For an equivalent amount of fibers, this set-up is designed to produce an even web with significant bulkiness and an excellent MD:CD ratio without impacting the production capacity.

Maximizing performance by minimizing the raw material input and the amount of waste produced is a real driver of cost optimization. This is why ANDRITZ has created and integrated a solution that allows nonwovens producers to retrieve the wasted edges of their spunlace fabric and re-use it as recycled fibers. As a result, roll-good producers can even obtain the same web characteristics as when using virgin fibers, and most importantly, the exact same quality.

ANDRITZ also offers – under the brand Metris – ANDRITZ digital solutions – a variety of several service apps for optimum customer benefit. The Metris Cost Management app is used to track raw material consumption. It is an advanced system aimed at monitoring fiber consumption and allowing in-depth diagnoses to investigate raw material losses and savings grouped by different process areas. Thanks to this Metris application, ANDRITZ customers are able to optimize their system’s consumption of raw materials.

All these innovations are available in ANDRITZ’s technical centers, where ANDRITZ process experts will be glad to welcome customers in order to discuss and define their product expectations.

Oerlikon signs agreement to acquire INglass, a global leader in high precision polymer flow control equipment, to accelerate expansion strategy in polymer processing market

• INglass and its HRSflow Division is a market leader spezialized in hot runner sytems
• Technology is highly complementary to Oerlikon’s existing capabilities in polymer flow control and will expand Oerlikon’s market access
• Acquisition accelerates Oerlikon’s strategy in diversifying its manmade fibers business to expand into the high-growth polymer processing solution market
• Oerlikon renames ‘Manmade Fibers’ Division to ‘Polymer Processing Solutions’
• Acquisition is expected to be completed in the second quarter of 2021

Oerlikon, a leading provider of surface engineering, polymer processing and additive manufacturing, announced today that it has signed an agreement to acquire Italy-headquartered INglass S.p.A. and its innovative hot runner systems technology operating under its market-leading HRSflow business.

The strategic acquisition is a significant step in expanding Oerlikon’s current manmade fibers business into the larger polymer processing market. The acquisition accelerates and enhances existing organic initiatives to diversify and strengthen the company’s core high-precision polymer flow control capabilities, products and services. The completion of the transaction is subject to customary regulatory approvals and is expected by the second quarter of 2021.

To reflect Oerlikon’s expansion into a larger high-growth market, the Manmade Fibers Division will be renamed as Polymer Processing Solutions Division. This division will have two business units: Flow Control Solutions and Manmade Fibers Solutions. The busines unit Flow Control Solutions will combine the expertise of Oerlikon Barmag’s existing gear metering pumps business line and INglass’ HRSflow operations. The business unit Manmade Fibers Solutions will continue to focus on growing the existing chemical fiber machinery and plant engineering business, offering plant solutions for the production of polyester, polypropylene and polyamide.

“Our new Polymer Processing Solutions Division and the acquisition of INglass S.p.A. and its HRSflow business are critical components of Oerlikon Group’s growth strategy. We are accelerating our efforts to drive sustainable organic and inorganic growth in all of our businesses. The acquisition enables new synergy opportunities between both Oerlikon divisions in specific end markets such as automotive. With INglass and its HRSflow operations, we acquire leading suppliers in their markets with proven success of their technologies and services,” said Dr. Roland Fischer, CEO Oerlikon Group.

“We firmly believe that within the Oerlikon Group we can further exploit the potential of our hot runner systems technology and, when combined with the capabilities of Oerlikon Barmag gear metering pumps and their melt distribution engineering competence, will position our business as one of the leading precision flow control specialists for multiple applications in a global growth market”, said Antonio Bortuzzo, CEO of INglass S.p.A.

New business unit offers great growth potential

The Oerlikon Barmag competence brand already offers high precision flow control related components, including a large selection of gear metering pumps for textile and non-textile markets. These highly efficient pumps are used in silicone casting, dynamic mixing and oil spraying for the chemical, paint, polymer processing and automotive industries. This double-digit million CHF business, which has grown in recent years, will be merged with INglass’ HRSflow hot runner technologies under the new business unit Flow Control Solutions. HRSflow’s excellent market access to many OEMs in and outside the automotive industry brings significant growth opportunities.

INglass is a leader in automotive and expanding in other sectors

INglass S.p.A. is an internationally operating successful company established in 1987. Its product portfolio includes hot runners as well as engineering and consultancy services for the advanced development of polymer processing products. INglass’ HRSflow hot runner systems are applied in multiple industries from automotive, consumer goods and household appliances to packaging, waste management, construction and transportation.

INglass is headquartered in San Polo di Piave, Italy, near Venice. 2020 revenues of INglass were approximately CHF 135 million and the acquisition is expected to be immediately accretive to Oerlikon’s margins and cash flows. INglass has more than 1 000 employees and 55 sites worldwide, including production plants in Italy, China and the US. Among these sites are INglass’ newly renovated headquarters and production at its primary location in San Polo di Piave near Venice, Italy. The investment modernized the facilities with automated production, underlining the company’s commitment to sustainability and the environment. The other two modern production sites are in Zhejiang (Hangzhou Province) in China and Michigan (Grand Rapids) in the USA.

Following the integration with Oerlikon Barmag’s gear metering pumps business of about 200 employees in Remscheid, Germany, the new Flow Control Solutions business unit will have round about 1 200 employees.

"We see great potential for growth in our new Flow Control Solutions business unit,” said Georg Stausberg, Polymer Processing Solutions Division CEO and Member of the Executive Committee of the Oerlikon Group. “The businesses form the two core growth pillars and benefit from each other in global market development, in modern and digitized production, and in customer services. We also see potential synergies in R&D by combining existing know-how in the field of polymer processing. New technological solutions between hot runner systems and gear metering pumps are conceivable. We also anticipate collaborating more closely with the Oerlikon Surface Solutions Division, particularly in future mobility applications and functional polymer component solutions for the automotive industry. All in all, we will offer our customers innovative and attractive solutions in the field of polymer processing and high precision flow control components.”

Next steps for further diversification of the division product portfolio are already ongoing

Combining the divisions plant engineering and process know how with expertise on high precision flow control components technologies has a significant impact on product quality in nearly all applications, which opens up a platform for further organic and inorganic growth. "We are closely observing the megatrends in the markets and developing new business models to match. In the area of sustainability, covering topics such as circular economy, the recycling of materials using mechanical and chemical recycling solutions, as well as the handling of new, more environmentally friendly and biodegradable materials, we are on the verge of a breakthrough. We are ready to actively participate in these growth areas,” added Georg Stausberg.

“In realigning the Polymer Processing Solutions Division, Oerlikon will continue to apply our successful recipe of a lean organizational structure to efficiently manage the business. This means clear processes, short decision-making paths and competent teams in a diverse and multicultural organization in which everyone can contribute innovatively to create customer value,” said Georg Stausberg.

• EMMA SCALCON is the winner of the first edition of the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION AWARD, an international competition for communication in sustainable fashion.

The award was established in October 2020 by Connecting Cultures and C.L.A.S.S. with the aim of creating new visual imagery and innovative communication models in sustainable fashion. Stylists, photographers, designers, illustrators, artists and other creatives, invited to rethink how to communicate the new generation of values of an ethical and sustainable fashion system, joined the open and international call.

The name of the winner of the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION competition was announced during a webinar on March 30th at 4pm led by Giusy Bettoni, CEO of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub; Anna Detheridge, President of Connecting  Cultures; Lucy Orta, Chair, Art & the Environment, University of the Arts London; and Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner of The Bear Scouts.

Born in Padua, Italy, 22 years old, and a student in her second year in Textile & Fashion Design at IAAD - Istituto d'Arte Applicata e Design, Emma Scalcon won the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION competition with her project TAKE A WALK ON THE GREEN SIDE, designing communications crafted with strong and impactful images and simple but detailed wording intended for younger consumers to inform them about sustainable fashion issues.

Scalcon ranked first among the finalists selected by a high profile jury composed of:
·   Anna Detheridge, Founder and President, Connecting Cultures
·   Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder, C.L.A.S.S.
·   Rita Airaghi, Director, Gianfranco Ferré Foundation
·   Paola Arosio, Head of New Brands & Sustainability Projects, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
·   Jeanine Ballone, Managing Director, Fashion 4 Development
·   Evie Evangelou, Founder and President, Fashion 4 Development
·   Chiara Luisi, Sustainability Projects Coordinator, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
·   Sara Kozlowski, Director of Education and Sustainable Strategies, Council of Fashion Designers of America  
·   Dio Kurazawa, Socio fondatore, The Bear Scouts
·   Renata Molho, Founding Partner, The Bear Scouts
·   Lucy Orta, Chair, Art & the Environment, University of the Arts London
·   Stefania Ricci, Director, Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

Emma Scalcon was awarded the €3,000 prize, made possible by the Main Sponsor ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei and by the other sponsors of the project: ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei - a latest generation fabric collection that promotes responsible innovation with advanced high-tech performance, C.L.A.S.S., and the Greek smart cotton SUPREME GREEN COTTON® by Varvaressos.
 
“It is time to be pioneers in communication and for this we have supported the Imagining Sustainable Fashion Award,” commented Takaaki Kondo, global marketing department manager for ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, the Main Sponsor of the award. ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei is a high quality stretch fibre with an innovative range of intelligent functions to satisfy every modern wardrobe need for sports, underwear, and fashion. “We believe that together with responsible innovation, communication is the key to bring sustainability to the next level: to inspire, educate, inform and allow both professionals and consumers to make the right choices.”

“The competition is an opportunity to rethink how to communicate the new and different values of an ethical and sustainable fashion system,” explained Anna Detheridge. “I am quite impressed with the results of the competition — the diversity of forms that we received show both an interesting change in sensibility and a practical approach to communicating these values. There is less visual rhetoric and reliance on compelling images and more investment in basic information and a greater variety of narratives.

It is a great pleasure to see the energies from a wealth of young creatives, small businesses, and designers from all over the world with cross-disciplinary interests and a diversity of talents who are ushering in a new culture of design. My heartiest congratulations go to Emma Scalcon".

“I completely agree with Anna's comments on the quality of the work submitted by participants in the competition and together we have renewed our intention to continue IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION into 2021 with a new edition of the award,” stated Giusy Bettoni. “After this initial experience, we find ourselves even more motivated to explore some of the themes that emerged during the selection process, in particular those regarding the ethics of intellectual and cultural property, a topical issue in an industry like fashion. For this reason, we are already working together on organizing a webinar on this topic with outside specialists, including legal experts.”

 21 Grams, the group comprised of Veronica De Nigris, Serena Paone e Immacolata Esposito, won a special contest open to the public among the finalists selected by the jury, receiving the most votes from Instagram followers on C.L.A.S.S.’s corporate Instagram profile. The media partner for the initiative is Renoon, the leading search tool and data hub for sustainable fashion, a rising start-up of the year, aggregating +190 brands offering sustainable options to consumers. 

At the 77th Annual General Meeting of Lenzing AG, which was once again held virtually on April 14, 2021 via livestream due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the members of the Managing Board and Supervisory Board were formally discharged from liability for the business year 2020. KPMG Austria GmbH Wirtschaftsprüfungs- u. Steuerberatungsgesellschaft was appointed to serve as the auditor of the annual financial statements and consolidated annual financial statements for the business year 2021.

Furthermore, the Annual General Meeting adopted the resolution on the compensation to be paid to Supervisory Board members as well as the principles underlying the remuneration of the members of the Managing Board. In addition to financial performance criteria, the remuneration policy of Lenzing AG regulating the multi-year, performance-oriented remuneration paid to the Managing Board members will also be linked in the future to non-financial sustainability criteria (ESG) designed to further promote the sustainable business strategy of Lenzing AG.

Fully on track strategically
The Managing Board of Lenzing AG presented the business development of the year 2020, a strategic outlook and sustainability strategy including the relevant roadmap to achieve climate targets to the participating shareholders. In 2019, Lenzing made a strategic commitment to reducing its greenhouse gas emissions per ton of product by 50 percent by the year 2030. The goal is to operate in a climate-neutral manner by 2050.

The substantial investments made in Thailand and Brazil not only support Lenzing in its transformation to a supplier of environmentally compatible specialty fibers but also comprise an important milestone on this journey which sustainably increases the company’s enterprise value.

The implementation of these two key projects is proceeding ahead as planned in spite of the direct impacts of the coronavirus crisis. The pulp plant in Brazil is scheduled to be put into operation in the first half of 2022 and will significantly increase Lenzing’s own in-house supply of dissolving pulp. Production in Thailand is expected to commence towards the end of 2021, further raising the share of eco-friendly specialty fibers in the Lenzing product portfolio.

New appointments to the Supervisory Board
Dr. Veit Sorger retired from the Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG on his request effective at the end of the Annual General Meeting. Veit Sorger had been a Member of the Supervisory Board since 2004 (also serving as Deputy Chairman since 2011) and served on various Supervisory Board committees.

The Annual General Meeting elected Dr. Markus Fürst, Managing Director of B&C Industrieholding GmbH, and Thomas Cord Prinzhorn, MBA, CEO of Prinzhorn Holding GmbH, to serve on the Supervisory Board until the end of the Annual General Meeting resolving upon the discharge of the Supervisory Board members for the business year 2024.

We aRe SpinDye (WRSD) and Gina Tricot have entered into a collaboration agreement. The partnership formed between the two companies is a strategic milestone for both parties.

"Gina Tricot has made impressive progress in the area of sustainability recently and it is fantastic that we get the opportunity to participate and contribute going forward", says Andreas Andrén, CEO of WRSD and continues: "The collaboration is completely in line with our ambitions to become an industry standard for coloring recycled polyester."

Gina Tricot is a Swedish brand that offers fashion to women in over 30 countries.
"Together with WRSD, we can create a better, more sustainable and circular fashion industry. We are convinced that the future lies in collaboration and innovation between the various tiers of our value chain", says Emma Garrote Fredman, Global production & Sustainability manager at Gina Tricot.

Devan, one of the leading companies in sustainable and functional textile finishes, has been working together with Jeanologia, a global leader in sustainable and efficient finishing technologies for textiles, to reduce further water consumption during the application of Devan’s awarded BI-OME® antimicrobial and R-Vital® skincare range.

With increased attention to climate change and limiting excess water consumption in textile production (whether denim or other textiles), Devan and Jeanologia worked together to evaluate the application of Devan finishes onto garments via the patented e-Flow technology.

e-Flow technology can accomplish a considerable number of finishing effects with the highest quality, a minimal amount of water and zero discharge. The technology uses micronization and nebulization to substitute traditional abrasion process and deliver performance chemistry using nano-bubbles instead of water. It reduces the cost of application, saves the amount of water used and ensures that the correct amount of chemistry stays in the garment and not in the water. e-Flow is the perfect fit for every industrial washing machine. This allows mills and brands to apply Devan’s technologies in a more sustainable way than using traditional application equipment, even for smaller production runs and direct onto garments.

“With the global textile production using 4% of the global freshwater withdrawal, here at Devan we are continuously working on more sustainable solutions”, says Dr. Vanessa Daelman, CTO at Devan. “Next to this, we of course highly value sustainable application methods from Jeanologia, like e-Flow, in order to reduce the excess water usage during textile application. We are delighted that we could work together with Jeanologia and establish that Devan technologies can be easily applied via these technologies onto garments or fabrics like denim and with full retention of functionality. This application method also allows post garment treatment of our finishes, for example an antimicrobial treatment onto already finished garments, which will be increasingly important in a more circular textile world where re-use plays an important role”, Dr. Daelman concludes.

ISKO introduces ISKO™ Selvedge – a 21st century reinterpretation of one of the most legendary denim fabrics ever made. Inspired by the history and reverence of original Selvedge denim, ISKO has applied its high-performance patented technologies to develop a new Selvedge range. Available in a wide selection of weights, stretch options and finishes, ISKO™ Selvedge adds flexibility, softness and comfort to a fabric more commonly known for its raw and rigid qualities.

The new ISKO™ Selvedge range preserves the authenticity and many of Selvedge’s hallmarks beloved by true denim aficionados the world over, whilst introducing modern attributes such as sustainability, comfort and wearability, which are guaranteed to make it a favorite of a new generation of denim lovers.

The range includes 19 fabric varieties, with weights spanning from 7.75 to 14.5 oz and elasticity options between 13% – 52% for outstanding recovery and holding power. This variegated array relies on R-TWO™ technology. Certified to Textile Exchange environmental credentials, this platform ensures full traceability, minimizing environmental impact and delivering astounding quality to each solution included in the ISKO™ Selvedge family.

The machines are quick and reliable, with very little downtime, which is massively important to me as a business owner.”

Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, announced United Kingdom-based Kitlocker has implemented two Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro systems for efficient, retail-quality production of branded and customized apparel on demand.

Kitlocker operates within several sectors of the sports and leisurewear market, providing team gear for schools, football clubs, and other sporting organizations, managing e-commerce platforms on behalf of those organizations. Enabling their customers to embellish popular styles on demand, in any quantity, drove them to explore available technologies for speed and versatility, particularly regarding polyester apparel, a cornerstone of sportswear. Kornit’s Poly Pro system is the only single-step digital direct-to-garment (DTG) technology developed specifically for imprinting polyester and poly-blend materials, extending the company’s patented process for waste-free production with durability, precise graphic detail, and the broadest colour gamut to popular sports and athleisure apparel.

“The Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro allows for far superior quality of finish for embellishment compared to traditional print techniques,” says Mike Kent, Co-Owner of Kitlocker. “When we were shopping around for alternatives, it was obvious the sort of single pass, and its ability to print on polyester, was certainly market-leading—there was no alternative that could do that. The machines are quick and reliable, with very little downtime, which is massively important to me as a business owner.”

According to Kent, the technology has enabled Kitlocker to approach new markets that had always been off-limits previously, driving incremental business and building out new product ranges. The process lent itself to simple integration with their workflow and online design tools, empowering customers to visualize their own pieces and receive finished gear, with superior retail quality and precise logo colour matching, in mere days.

“The system allows us bigger print areas, more colours, and more elaborate designs, and our customers to uniquely embellish their garments on a wide range of products from different brands with lots of different kinds of creative outputs,” adds Kent.

“Our systems help brands like Kitlocker sync supply with demand, eliminating waste and making them more reactive to customer needs,” says Chris Govier, KDEU Managing Director. “Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro extends the efficiency, sustainability, quality, and logistical benefits of digitization to the booming sports and athleisure apparel market. Being able to give their customers the widest assortment of gear, customized in any quantity, on demand, is a winning game plan for Kitlocker.”

• Full-width automated cleaning system will be installed on high-graphics corrugated presses

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. has successfully landed three new FlexoCleanerBrush orders, with a total of 16 cleaning heads, from customers in the US and Germany. During the COVID-19 pandemic, Baldwin has delivered a total of 30 FlexoCleanerBrush cleaning heads, thanks to close collaboration between onsite team members, local agents, the company’s global sales organization, and support from its product and technology center in Germany. With the FlexoCleanerBrush system, an inline cleaning station installed within each print unit uses a brush that runs the full width of each printing plate. Paired with a precision spray application system, the FlexoCleanerBrush evenly distributes a mixture of detergent and water across the plate as it spins, gently cleaning its surface. The plates are then dried by the integrated air knife.

“With two of the recent orders, the customers had already installed the FlexoCleanerBrush in other locations. One of them reported as much as a 30 percent production capacity increase, thanks to the  installation,” said Lee Simmonds, Regional Sales Manager at Baldwin. “Both customers have experienced insufficient results with their original traversing cloth cleaning systems, which will now be removed and replaced with the full-width, stand-alone, automated FlexoCleanerBrush technology from Baldwin.”

Improving sustainability is one of the key drivers for investments in the corrugated printing industry. The FlexoCleanerBrush dramatically cuts water waste by cleaning plates more efficiently. In a recent independent study that was conducted to validate the capacity of the automated system, the FlexoCleanerBrush could fully clean and dry all printing plates in less than four minutes and pick hickeys in seconds.

Besides offering efficient cleaning during runs and fast end-of-job cleaning, the FlexoCleanerBrush system also enables operators to remove dry plates from the machine without the potential risk of plates sticking together once they are placed back in the plateracking system. This helps to ensure increased board throughput, less downtime and a safer working environment by eliminating operators’ contact with nip points, moving parts and chemicals.