From the Sector

Project Re:Claim, a joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company and Project Plan B, has been nominated for the Plastics Industry Awards 2024 in the "Recycler of the Year" category. Using an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and other textiles, the project is Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system. The award ceremony will take place on 22 November in London.

The UK produces more than half a million tonnes of polyester textile waste every year. Project Re:Claim aims to recycle post-industrial and post-consumer clothing and textiles. The focus is on the recycling of post-industrial polyester from contract textiles for hospitals or hotels (e.g. bed and table linen), workwear and school uniforms, as well as promotional banners (e.g. printed sports banners). The fabrics and textiles come from controlled material streams (closed-loop systems), ensuring minimal impurities. The recycling technology used is an ISEC evo 302 E from PURE LOOP. This innovative technology, developed by the EREMA Group’s member, enables efficient production of high-quality rPET from textile waste.

Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system
The plant, installed at a Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) processing centre in Kettering in early 2024, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system specialising in post-consumer polyester. SATCoL is the trading arm of The Salvation Army and UK’s largest charity owned textile collector.

Together with Project Plan B, a specialist in garment design with a focus on design for recycling, PURE LOOP optimised its integrated shredder-extruder combination ISEC evo for the specific requirements. "Plan B has a vision, and we are convinced something great can come out of it," emphasises Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director at PURE LOOP. Thanks to the configuration of shredder and extruder on one drive shaft and the patented double feed ram system, the ISEC evo 302 E gently processes discarded polyester into rPET, which can be reused for new yarns and other products. "Up until now, polyester that had no useful life left would have been disposed of," explains Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B. "With the ISEC evo, we can now return textile waste as a valuable material back to the supply chains. It’s a carbon saving solution, and it plays a significant role in helping our collective journey to Net Zero."

Textile recycling: an industry with growth potential
The plant aims to recycle 2,500 tonnes of polyester in its first year, doubling this amount in the second year. In addition to the environmental benefits such as diverting unwearable textiles away from landfill, initial estimates indicate that the production of pellets from Project Re:Claim uses only one-tenth of the energy compared with pellets produced from virgin polyester. One prerequisite for this is an energy-efficient recycling machine such as the ISEC evo.

In recent years, Vietnam has rapidly transformed into one of the world’s key textile producers, solidifying its position as the world’s third-ranked exporter behind China and Bangladesh. With a history rooted in silk textile craftsmanship and currently embracing wide ranging modern textile production, the country’s thriving sector offers tremendous growth prospects for both domestic and international businesses. In a bid to harness the potential in Vietnam and Southeast Asia, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will return from 26 – 28 February 2025, with a renewed focus on promoting sustainability and digital transformation.

Vietnam's textile and apparel sector comprises approximately 7,000 companies and employs over three million workers, with 80% of production capacity used for export and 20% for domestic consumption. Progress is aided by well-developed logistics networks, skilled labour and a stable political environment. As its textile industry evolves, several key trends are influencing its future direction, reflecting a growing emphasis on sustainability and technological advancement, and leading to new opportunities for exhibitors and buyers across the value chain at Vietnam’s comprehensive textile showcase.

Major trends shaping Vietnam's textile market reflected at VIATT
More Vietnamese enterprises are adopting eco-friendly materials, including organic cotton, recycled polyester, and Tencel, while numerous global brands manufacture in Vietnam, and have committed to the "Fashion Industry Charter on Climate Action", aiming to achieve net-zero carbon emissions by 2050.

To further advance sustainable initiatives in the domestic and international textile industry, VIATT 2025 will introduce Econogy Hub, a dedicated platform for innovative, eco-friendly suppliers and service providers to connect with like-minded visitors. The show’s other new Texpertise Econogy features will include the Econogy Finder, an independent verification tool to help sustainable exhibitors effectively communicate their green credentials, and Econogy Talks, the overarching category for eco-focused seminars, forums, and product presentations.

Apart from sustainability, the Vietnamese textile industry is also embracing advanced technologies in design and manufacturing. The launch of the fair’s Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone will provide a centralised platform for exhibitors to showcase innovations such as 3D printing, AI-driven design, and digital printing, which enable manufacturers to boost efficiency and customise products to meet specific market demands.

As well as the introduction of two new product zones, the India Pavilion, organised by The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), will also make its debut at VIATT 2025. Additionally, the Japan and Taiwan Pavilions have confirmed their return, with the Japan Pavilion recognised by VIATT’s visitors as a standout showcase within Southeast Asia's textile fair landscape. Overall, the fair will feature a diverse range of exhibitors across apparel, home textiles, and technical textiles, with many showcasing innovative and sustainable products.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

CARBIOS and SASA, a manufacturer of polyester, fiber, filament yarn, polyester-based polymers, specialty polymers and intermediates, have signed a Letter of Intent (LOI) to cooperate through SASA’s potential acquisition of a license for CARBIOS’ unique PET biorecycling technology. This licensing agreement would allow SASA to construct and operate an enzymatic depolymerization plant in Adana, Turkey, with a capacity of 100,000 tons per year of prepared PET waste, and would give access to a circular recycling technology, enabling the production of polyester pellets, fibers and textiles from various waste sources, including polyester textile waste. With CARBIOS' biorecycling technology, SASA would diversify its offering to meet the growing global demand for sustainable materials in the textile industry, primarily catering to the European market.

Less than 1% of textile waste is currently recycled into new textile fibers^[1].  With European regulations moving towards the incorporation of more recycled content (at least 20% of recycled fibers by 2030), demand for recycled polyester in the EU is anticipated to increase, naturally positioning Turkey as a major producer alongside Asian countries.  In this context, SASA is striving to become the largest supplier of high value-added polyester in the region and beyond. To achieve this, SASA aims to introduce recycling as part of its activities, which already encompass the whole value chain from PET production to fiber and textile conversion. CARBIOS’ PET biorecycling technology plays an important part in SASA’s ongoing transformation strategy, which includes back integration, capacity expansion, even higher competitiveness, as well as circularity.

CARBIOS has developed a enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products. CARBIOS has ambitious plans to become a leading technology provider in the recycling of PET by 2035. After the recent announcement of a joint Letter of Intent with Zhink Group in China, this new Letter of Intent for a potential licensing agreement in Europe confirms global traction for CARBIOS biorecycling technology, and marks another significant step in the international roll-out of its licensing model. In addition to the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France, this potential plant in Turkey would process PET waste that is currently not recyclable using conventional recycling technologies.

[1] System Circularity and Innovative Recycling of Textiles | Circular Cities and Regions Initiative (europa.eu)

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel launches the complete RCY 99xx series recycled polyester (rPET) shirt interlinings. This product line serves as a sustainable counterpart to Freudenberg's renowned 95xx series, which has been a staple in the industry for over twenty years.

The 95xx series, celebrated for its unique bi-elastic properties, has earned its place as one of Freudenberg Apparel's most sought-after shirt interlining ranges.

Now, taking a leap towards sustainability, Freudenberg Apparel introduces the complete RCY 99xx series. Crafted from rPET, these bi-elastic interlinings are designed to complement an array of contemporary fabrics, including pure cotton, T/C, flannel, oxford, cotton & linen blends, seersucker, jersey, and all types of stretch knits. The RCY 99xx series not only preserves the natural hand-feel, texture, and shape of these fabrics but also infuses a fresh creative dimension into shirt design.

The RCY 99xx series boasts an weight range of 30-150 g/m2, offering versatility for a diverse spectrum of shirt styles, from men’s casual shirts and women's blouses to polo shirts, sports shirts, and denim shirts. This adaptability ensures that designers and manufacturers have the flexibility to meet the evolving demands of the market while upholding sustainability principles.

As part of the European Erasmus+ project AddTex, the partner organisations organised several hackathons at the universities of Boras (Sweden), UPC (Spain), PIN (Italy) and TUS (Ireland) in May. The aim is to connect students with real challenges in the industry and promote innovation in the areas of ecology, sustainability, digitalisation and design. The participants had received basic information in advance through the 45 training videos and training sessions of the free and public Smart, Digital and Green Skills Academy at https://addtex.eu.

The hackathon at the Italian university PIN (Polo Universitario Città di Prato) was organised and held together with the technical textiles department of the Industrieverband Veredlung - Garne - Gewebe - Technische Textilien e.V. (IVGT). Eight teams competed to develop innovative, sustainable ideas in just a few hours for the German family business Schmitz Textiles GmbH & Co. KG, Emsdetten. Schmitz Textiles, an expert in complete textile solutions for indoor and outdoor use for over 100 years, plans to offer exclusively sustainable products in the medium term and is looking for solutions to continuously increase the existing recycled share of yarns to 100 per cent.

Stefan Schmidt from IVGT presented the challenge via Teams Conference: "We are looking for a new business model for textile recycling at awning manufacturer Schmitz-Textiles in order to increase the existing proportion of recycled yarns and go beyond the exclusive use of recycled PET bottles. Schmitz Textiles has had an awning fabric made from 100% recycled polyester in its range since the end of 2023. The medium-term goal is to switch the entire range of awning fabrics to 100% recycled yarns. The company is looking for suitable solutions to achieve this.

In small teams, the 30 students specialising in eco-design, textiles/sales and textiles/technology developed proposals and presented them in five-minute online pitches. Ralf Bosse for Schmitz Textiles and Iris Schlomski for the IVGT acted as the jury and assessed the individual presentations in the categories of degree of innovation, presentation, industrial application potential and potential for commercial success. Each idea presented and each presentation scored more or less points in the individual categories. In the end, the points scored were added up to determine the winning team, which can further develop its idea together with the company. For Schmitz Textiles, these are Eleonora Boccherini, Ilaria Ioja, Giorgio Gacci and Marianna Butera.

Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd., the Teijin Group’s fibers and products converting company, announced the development of a new, multifunctional and comfortable polyester material that combines high breathability and UV protection. This new product reproduces the structure of a traditional Japanese "Sudare" blind (bamboo blind), which allows breezes to pass through while blocking out sunlight.

As extremely high summer temperatures become increasingly common, Teijin Frontier developed this new polyester to meet market demands for materials with enhanced heat protection functions. Heat protection encompasses breathability, UV resistance and anti-stickiness. However, until now, breathability – achieved by gaps between fibers – and UV protection were thought to be mutually exclusive.

To solve this dilemma, the company created a structure with slit-shaped, highly breathable areas in either the warp or weft direction of the fabric. These three-dimensional gaps, similar to those in a bamboo blind, allow the material to deliver both excellent breathability and high UV blocking performance of 85 percent or more. The structure allows air permeability of 50㎤/㎠・s or more.

This new product also offers sustainability benefits through the incorporation of recycled polyester in part. Its structure and elastic fibers provide stretch performance, while an uneven surface caused by differences in thread shrinkage and its structure avoid stickiness. Moreover, to achieve the combination of functions, Teijin Frontier also adopt special high-shrinkage technology and dying finishing technology. This material offers potential for use in both fashion and casual clothing.

Teijin Frontier will begin promoting this product for the 2025 spring and summer fashion and casual clothing collections in Japan, aiming for sales of 250,000 meters in fiscal 2024 and 750,000 meters in fiscal 2027.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, announces its membership to Paris Good Fashion, the association that unites over 100 French players in the sector - brands, designers and experts - around their commitment to sustainable fashion. CARBIOS is the first recycling technology supplier to join, demonstrating the importance given to recycling to achieve textile circularity. By contributing its solution for the biorecycling of polyester, the world's most widely used and fastest-growing textile fiber, CARBIOS aims to contribute Paris Good Fashion’s mission, which focuses on concrete actions, best practice sharing and collective intelligence to accelerate change in the fashion industry.

CARBIOS will be particularly involved in the association's project to set up a working group dedicated to the development of a "fiber-to-fiber" industry, one of Paris Good Fashion's top priorities over the next five years. While only 1% of textiles are currently recycled fiber-to-fiber (circular), this working group will identify levers for significantly increasing the share of recycled fibers in the industry.  Polyester currently follows a linear model from which we need to break out: virgin polyester is made from petroleum, and recycled polyester from PET bottles. After use, most of these products end their lives in landfill or incineration. A circular, "fiber-to-fiber" industry will give new life to textiles and reduce the environmental impact associated to their end-of-life management.

With its new sustainability label Autoneum Blue, Autoneum combines the use of recycled materials with protecting the oceans and social responsibility. Autoneum Blue is a continuation of the LABEL blue by Borgers®, which was originally launched by Borgers Automotive. Following the acquisition of the German automotive supplier in April 2023, Autoneum has now fully integrated the label into its sustainable product portfolio.

Marine pollution has reached alarming levels in recent decades, with plastic contamination posing one of the most harmful threats to the health of the world’s largest ecosystem. In light of ever-stricter legal requirements for the environmental performance of vehicles, especially regarding the recycled content of components and their end-of-life recyclability, the reduction and recycling of plastics is also one of the key challenges for the automotive industry. Autoneum Pure, the Company’s sustainability label for technologies with an excellent sustainability performance throughout the product life cycle, is already successfully helping customers to tackle these challenges. With Autoneum Blue, Autoneum is now expanding its sustainable product portfolio with a label for components that combine the use of recycled material with protecting the oceans and social responsibility.

In order to qualify for the Autoneum Blue label, components must be based on materials that consist of at least 30% recycled PET that was collected from coastal areas within a 50-kilometer range of the water. These credentials mean the products make an important contribution to preventing plastic pollution in the oceans. In addition, the process of collecting the PET bottles must be socially respon-sible and comply with human rights, and traceable procurement of the bottle flakes must be guaran-teed. Autoneum Blue thus complements the Company’s strategic target to continuously reduce water consumption in all areas of its operations with an additional focus on preventing plastic pollution of the oceans.

Autoneum currently offers selected wheelhouse outer liners, needlepunch carpets and trunk side trim under the Blue label. In principle, however, the label could be extended to any product based on Autoneum technologies that feature recycled polyester fibers. As an addition to Autoneum’s existing fully recyclable monomaterial polyester constructions, which are characterized by waste-free production and have a significantly lower carbon footprint compared to products made from virgin fibers, Autoneum Blue presents another example of the Company’s ongoing efforts and continuous strides towards a sustainable circular economy.

• The new high-performance away kit design blends bold geometric prints with shades of halo pink and soft, pastel glow blue, pushing the boundaries of on-pitch sport style.
• The limited-edition range includes a gender-neutral game-day match shirt as well as comfort-first off-pitch pieces for pre- and post-match travel.

adidas and Arsenal have launched the next chapter of their collaboration with Stella McCartney, by revealing the first away kit and travel range for Arsenal Women.

The limited-edition range is designed to support Arsenal Women both on and off the pitch and includes a range of structured silhouettes including a jersey, shorts and stylish travel wear pieces such as a full zip jacket with neon accents, track-style pants, and an oversized tee. As the hero piece of the collection, the striking away shirt takes centre stage thanks to the fusion of geometric patterns with color-blocking accents of halo pink and glow blue. The shirt also features AEROREADY technology, which uses sweat-wicking and absorbent materials to keep players feeling dry.

Key pieces are crafted with at least 47% recycled polyester and 100% organic cotton as part of adidas' ambition to help end plastic waste.

SGS and FibreTrace®, a digital and physical traceability provider in traceable fiber technology, have joined forces to develop a new Fiber Integrity Protocol for the textile industry.

The partnership will support brands worldwide to strengthen confidence in product claims made across a range of materials through the integration of traceability technologies, such as FibreTrace® MAPPED and FibreTrace® Verified, with robustly audited pathways.

Work has begun on the development of the protocol which will combine testing, verification, chain of custody checking and product markers. To further enhance the robust implementation of verification and compliance across the full value chain, SGS is also supporting FibreTrace® to:

• Support suppliers to demonstrate compliance and accurate reporting within the FibreTrace® digital platform
• Review the compliance and traceability of fibers and materials prior to the application of FibreTrace® physical technology (for example at recycled polyester collection points)
• Help brands and retailers to carry out on-site scanning and to verify fibers with the use of FibreTrace® physical and digital technology