From the Sector

At the Shanghaitex trade fair Mayer & Cie. China (MCN) exhibited its new machine for manufacturing three-thread fleece. The MFC 3.2 is the first in-house development by the German circular knitting machine manufacturer’s Chinese subsidiary. It produces light to heavy linings and is specially geared to processing polyester yarn. The MFC 3.2 will be available from spring 2020; the material it produces is used in sports- and leisurewear.

“Three-thread fleece linings are popular all over the world,” says Marcus Mayer, Mayer & Cie.’s technical director, “albeit with important regional differences. In Europe and America customers appreciate heavier, warm cotton fabrics, whereas in Asia light, fluffy fabrics made of mixed synthetic fibres are preferred. That is why the MFC 3.2 is a major addition to our Chinese portfolio.“

MFC 3.2: Tried and trusted basis, market-specific alignment
The new Chinese three-thread fleece machine is based on the established Mayer & Cie. MBF 3.2, the qualities of which deliver the goods in the MFC 3.2. They include the high quality of material on both sides of the fabric and the production of challenging weaves. At the same time, the Chinese Mayer & Cie. team attached importance to catering for local requirements, first and foremost processing polyester yarns. Thanks to cam parts developed in-house the new machine performs these tasks reliably and efficiently. At up to 30 rpm on a 30-inch diameter cylinder the MFC 3.2 produces three-thread fleece for sports- and leisurewear.

The MFC 3.2 is more than a three-thread fleece machine, however. A conversion kit transforms it into the MSC 3.2 II, the most popular machine in Mayer & Cie. China’s portfolio. The conversion works in both directions, which further upgrades the single jersey machine because “in the highly saturated Chinese single jersey market the fact that the MSC 3.2 II can be converted into a threethread fleece machine is an important selling point,” Managing Director Mayer notes.

• Elleti Group takes center stage at Denim PV to present a special project realized in partnership with MYR, and to share a selection of iconic garments belonging to M.O.D.E, the company’s Museum of Denim.
• Collaboration will be the main theme of the two-day event, involving not only the leading company’s expertise in garment-making but also its tradition, starring M.O.D.E in its firstever collaboration with a trade show and in Alessio Berto’s  RE-TRACE workshops series.

London – When it comes to long-established traditions in the denim industry, Elleti Group stands out as one of the main key players: strong in the business since the 80’s, the company is highlyspecialized in laundry and garment-making services while covering the entire denim production cycle in its eleven production hub.

Its heritage and approach define a valuable and renowned legacy that is now taking stage at Denim PV on December 3rd and 4th. For the occasion, Elleti Group joined forces and knowledge with MYR, start-up program conceived to digitalize the creative process and connect users, suppliers and final consumers through a digital platform. Both companies will be in the Garments and Finishings area - booth C3,  howcasing an exclusive project to highlight their creativity and competences.

Starting from a selection of bold designs, entirely envisioned and developed with MYR software, Elleti Group worked to recreate their look and fit on six garments, manufacturing each piece according to its signature innovative and responsible approach. Featuring forefront machinery and cutting-edge processing solutions, this relies on a continuous research effort focused on granting high-quality products while increasingly reducing their knock-on effect on both workers and the environment.

The result turned out to be very impactful and inspiring, with denim solutions which proved the mastery of the leading Italian company in the art of washing, cutting and stitching the iconic blue fabric, as well as the great support that MYR software provided in the development of the collections.

M.O.D.E. x Denim PV: an exclusive exhibition to explore the history of denim

Opened on June 19th, M.O.D.E. – Museum of Denim Elleti Group – is a precious resource located within the company’s Headquarters in San Bonifacio (Italy). Here are 106 pieces dating between the second half of the XIX century and the 70s, resulting in an invaluable testimony of how denim evolved through the centuries. For the first-ever collaboration of the Museum with a trade show, a selection of 20 historical garments is exploring three research areas. These are meant to focus on:

• The brand identity of jeans through the main evolutions at Lee;
• The influence of WWII on the design, the creation and the wearing of clothing;
• The history of overall.

Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network announces commitment to the Sustainable Development Goals in global collaboration with the Conscious Fashion Campaign and the United Nations Office for Partnerships to integrate the Sustainable Development Goals into over 50 leading international textile trade fairs attracting more than 22,000 companies and over half a million trade visitors annually.

In January 2019 the Sustainable Development Goals were introduced to a Messe Frankfurt event for the first time during the world's leading platform for sustainable fashion, Neonyt, in Berlin as part of Berlin Fashion Week, where the Conscious Fashion Campaign was presented.

The initiative, in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, engages global industry events to commit to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals and champions fashion as an influential sector to address the world’s most pressing issues. The campaign is dedicated to driving change through advocacy, education and engagement

C.L.A.S.S. discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how smart materials are able to deliver eco hi-tech valuable innovations. 

Five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Among the first adopters of E.C.O. Kosmos shines Gilberto Calzolari, a luxury prêt-à-porter brand Made in Italy with a responsible soul, whose style is represented by the demi-couture dress: fresh, glamorous and romantic. Precious fabrics, complemented by the highest quality in production techniques and tailoring craftsmanship, bear the hallmarks of a brand with a strong identity that is in tune with the needs of contemporary living and reclaims the values of environmental sustainability as well as elegance and excellence typical of luxury Made in Italy. Supported by the CNMI Fashion Trust due to its environmental committment and unique design, the brand chose two materials of the E.C.O. KOSMOS cross-collection for the SS 2020 presented during MFW: the E.C.O. AURORA 50% AMNI SOUL ECO® -50% Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified Cotton canvas and the E.C.O. SONICA Newlife™ stretch satin.

Closed: the German brand, founded in1978, focuses on great designs, small details and pure quality to create understated and advanced denim looks totally handmade in Italy. Closed selected the new amazing Candiani ReLast line, the range of market fresh responsible denim products whose objective is to introduce a 100% transformed innovative solution. The partnership between ROICA™ and Candiani generated a very special ROICA™ yarn realized only for Candiani. A premium stretch yarn that is boasting a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) version 4 certification, thanks to its high percentage of recycled content and appropriated process of transformation.

Within the premium brand adoptions of Bemberg™ shines Martin Greenfield, one of the world's most renowned tailor company. The company, founded in 1977 by Martin Greenfield, realizes hand tailored men’s clothing to meet the requirements of innovative designers, specialty retailers, costume designers, stylists and individuals. For finest made-to-order as well as made-to-measure suits,100% built by hand in their Brooklyn Factory, they choose Bemberg™ Yarn Dyed Lining produced in Italy and Japan for its soft versatility, unique precious touch and exquisite comfort.

My.Suit: Since My.Suit was founded in 2008 in NYC, their philosophy has been simple: provide their clients with a better way to buy a suit.  Their made-to-measure suits and tuxedos offer a better fit than traditional off-the-rack alternatives by accommodating as many different body types as possible, and can be made in a variety of fabric and style options to suit individual needs.  My.Suit utilizes a vertical business model: fabric mill, suit manufacturing, and retail locations, to provide a quick delivery time at an attractive price point. My.Suit has been using Bemberg™ lining to add style and comfort to their suit jackets for over a decade.  With a wide range of colors and designs, Bemberg lining complements their extensive fabric selection and helps us to create visually stunning suits that feel great and provides a personalized option to their clients.

un-sanctioned™ is an innovation-driven performance running apparel brand newly launched in September, 2019; founded on the belief that it’s time for running to give back to the environment all runners take so much joy from.  In partnership with Miti-Spa, un-sanctioned™ has developed and launched with two initial sustainable performance running fabrics called [ BottleKnit™ ] — a 100% recycled polyester made from plastic bottles. And [ WasteKnit™] — a 100% upcycled polyamide made from industrial waste blended with ROICA™ EF yarn for uncompromising smart stretch performance.

As of October 1st, 2019, the Netherlands-based global market leading manufacturer of advanced automation equipment and solutions for composites, Airborne, strengthens its activities particularly in German speaking countries, the so-called D-A-CH region, comprising Germany, Austria and Switzerland with Dr. Michael Effing from AMAC. The Dutch company is looking for specialised partnerships to develop and deepen its international business opportunities in the aerospace and automotive markets.

Airborne’s focus is on high-end composite components, at high production rates at radically low conversion costs. Airborne is building up a suite of automated solutions for the manufacturing of composites with the aim to radically reduce costs and touch labour, minimize the footprint and use of material, and improve the time to market for their clients. The company offers i.a. solutions in automated honeycomb potting, automated kitting and automated lamination of thermosets and thermoplastics. In order to develop new business opportunities in the D-A-CH region for the end-markets aerospace and automotive, Airborne is cooperating with AMAC to accelerate the process of locating suitable partnerships.

Dr. Effing, CEO of AMAC GmbH confirms: "As a first step for the establishment of Airborne on the German market, we just signed their membership at AZL in Aachen which will help to connect with over 80 companies and latest research developments. In the framework of theirstrategy to strengthen the supply to the aircraft sector, Airborne will also exhibit at the Aircraft Interiors Expo in Hamburg from March 31st to April 2nd 2020.”

SEEK is edgy, clear and unpolished. It’s all about cool statement designs, the new classics, denim and sportswear. SEEK is the trade show for the fashion community that knows the facts, prompts sales and meets the needs of the new generation of decision-makers. Compared to other trade shows, SEEK is particularly unconventional and the antidote to boring.

At the start of the season in January SEEK will be showcasing one thing more than anything – relevance. SEEK epitomises values like honesty, loyalty, consciousness of quality, local proximity; and the brands that exhibit at SEEK are on exactly the same page. The BRIGHT brands relevant to retail are now fully integrated.

FOCUS TOPICS

• Responsible Future
  Sustainability is part of SEEK’s DNA and has always informed how the team and community operate. Over 80 sustainable brands make up the brand portfolio, including players like Veja, Dedicated, Sandqvist and Kings of Indigo.
  The SEEK team places great value on personal contact with customers and puts a great deal of love into the details and in honest collaboration with all stakeholders.

• Retail Experiences
  There is no other comparable brand portfolio at any other trade show. SEEK’s unique brand mix is becoming even more dynamic, reflecting retail concepts that have had international success. In the world’s most in-demand stores, such as End Clothing (London), Voo Store (Berlin) and Caliroots (Stockholm), EUR 500 designs are placed next to EUR 50 t-shirts and bought by the same customers. That’s the status quo – end consumers decide on and bring the range to life

• #FASHIONTECH at SEEK
  Digitalisation remains one of the most important topics in the industry. For this and other reasons, formats of #FASHIONTECH will take place at SEEK. For the first time, topics relevant to SEEK will be initiated in the style of talks and masterclasses at #FASHIONTECH. SEEK is taking a fundamental look at topics such as Brand Building, Social Media and Gaming.

   

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

Celebrating 25 years as Asia’s leading trade fair for the interior textiles industry, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles opened its doors from 28 – 31 August. Covering seven halls at the National Exhibition and Convention Center, around 1,150 exhibitors from 27 countries and regions displayed their latest products and technologies for the home and contract textiles sectors (2018: 1,091).

Exhibitor highlights from 2019

•    Country and region pavilions from Belgium, Pakistan, Taiwan and Turkey
•    Expanded finished products zone: more sourcing options were available in hall 8.1 this year for finished products and a range of home décor items.
•    Finished curtain zone located in the North Hall
•    Bed, bath, kitchen and table: suppliers from China were joined by exhibitors from Australia, Austria, Denmark, Hungary, Japan and elsewhere in these product categories.
•    Whole-home and editor zones: buyers could source the latest luxury branded products and gain decoration concept inspiration in these high-end zones.
•    Textile design zone: 20 design studios from 12 countries including China, Finland, France, India, Japan, Korea, the Netherlands, Portugal, Switzerland and the UK showcased their avant-garde collections.

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

• Ice, style and performance

These are the keywords which describe the new eclectic creations by the Riri Group for the Fall Winter season 2020-2021: a journey through the winter, its atmosphere and its colours Mendrisio, September 2019 - Première Vision Paris (17 - 19 September) will set the stage for the new proposals for the Fall Winter 2020-21 collection by the Riri Group, a leading brand in the zip and button manufacturing sector for high couture and outdoor apparel. A preview of the new collection by the Swiss group will take place at Munich Fabric Start (3 – 5 September).

COLOURS, MATERIALS AND TEXTURES

Winter landscapes and polar tones have inspired the colours of this new collection: nuances of grey, azure and white remind us of the typical tones of ice; also dominant is the presence of blue, intense and rich in contrast thanks to the attractive green inserts; black interventions are then harmoniously inserted as part of the colour palette, creating an appealing interplay of colour references. Tapes, pullers and chains provide new pleasant tactile sensations and unexpected visual inputs, through the search for always new processing methods the iceberg effect reproduced with a laser system, the texture reminding us of snake skin, from marble effect to horn processing, and freehand diamond turning, as well as the three-dimensional drop varnishing and the stylish mother-of-pearl effect.

NOVELTIES

The guiding thread for the new “Winterstorm” collection is the use of nuanced colours and ‘ice-like’ effects, reminding us of winter landscape and climates, as in the new Decor Cristal zip with transparent chain or in the Aquatyre zip, available also in a new luminescent version. Among the new creations, the Metal 3H zip stands out: the smallest and most innovative in the collection, lightweight and with a streamlined design. The provocations for this fall-winter have reached extreme levels, with a zip made of synthetic fur and incorporated buttons, whose cover can be removed and then reapplied, to face polar temperatures with a touch of glamour. Alongside the most fashionable novelties, the research by the Riri group does not cease to surprise in the outdoor sector also as regards buttons. This is confirmed by Rislide, the snap closure with a nylon body and Zama button. The innovative b-lock pressure button – with high lateral hold – has been restyled with a silicone shaped head in three colours. As part of a collection characterised by style and performance elements, it is definitely worth mentioning Zero, also in its invisible version: this button – thanks to its elegant design, combines practicality and style without compromising on performance.