From the Sector

FLUID IDENTITIES

Digitale Medien und globale Vernetzung verändern den Aggregatzustand der Gesellschaft, lösen eingefahrene Strukturen und schaffen Raum für flexible Lebensentwürfe. Themen wie Work-Life-Balance und Vorstellungen von privatem Glück lassen sich heute genauso wenig in Schablonen pressen wie Gender-Definitionen oder politische Haltungen. Auch die großen globalen Themen befinden sich im Stadium permanenter Fluktuation und verlangen nach einer radikalen Neuausrichtung von Wirtschaft und Gesellschaft, bei der gewohnte Konsumgewohnheiten durch mehr soziale Verantwortung und eine neue Art des Verbrauchens ersetzt werden. Aus der Notwendigkeit sich klar zu positionieren, ist inzwischen eine globale Bewegung entstanden. Sie zeigt, dass auch ein einzelnes Individuum mit der richtigen Idee im großen Maßstab Zukunft gestalten kann. Das eigene Handeln permanent zu hinterfragen und flexibel auf veränderte Gegebenheiten zu reagieren, hat auch den Umgang mit Mode grundlegend verändert. Trageanlässe und Gender-Rollen sind immer weniger ein Kriterium für das konsumieren von Mode. Heute geht es vielmehr darum, Verführung und Verantwortungsbewusstsein in die richtige Balance zu bringen und daraus einen neuen Optimismus der Veränderung entstehen zu lassen.

Diese Zeitgeist-Aspekte spiegeln sich in drei Stilmentalitäten wider, die dem Kollektionsaufbau zugrunde liegen. Sie reichen von sartorialem Anspruch über den gekonnten Mix aus zeitgemäßer Klassik und ungezwungenen Elementen bis hin zu einem urbanen, kosmopolitischen Habit. Das Ergebnis ist eine Kollektion, die sich trotz ihrer Vielschichtigkeit zu einem klaren Gesamtbild fügt und in allen Aspekten – unabhängig von Lieferterminen und thematischen Schwerpunkten – optimal miteinander kompatibel ist.

ESSENTIALS

Zeitlose Qualitäten wie Popeline, Fil-à-Fil oder Chambray bilden den Unterbau des Sortimentes und fügen sich nahtlos in das stilistische Konzept der Kollektion ein. Der Fokus liegt auf klassischen Dessinierungen und Kontrasten, die ein Spektrum von Unis über fein gezeichnete Streifenbilder bis zu Micro-Motiven und dezenten Checks abdecken.

SMART BUSINESS

Grenzen zwischen korrekt und informell werden fließend. Modern proportionierte Kentkrägen, Button-Down´s und Stehkragen-Varianten definieren den Begriff „Angezogenheit“ neu und lassen klischeehafte Vorstellungen von Business-Dresscodes hinter sich. Dieser Ansatz spiegelt sich in einem vielschichtigen Warenbild aus Unis und modernen Dessins wider. Oxfords und unterschiedliche Denim-Schattierungen werden durch farbige Twills, neue Cordqualitäten und klassische, von Anzugstoffen inspirierte Streifenbilder ergänzt. „Winter Standups“ legt den Fokus auf neue Stehkragenmodelle. Dabei werden traditionelle Dessins und Strukturen auf winterlichen Warenbildern und feinfädigen Cottons umgesetzt.

Im Fokus stehen anspruchsvolle Warenbilder mit besonderem Schwerpunkt auf klassischen Musterungen, feinen Garnen und reichen Haptiken. Diese Kernaussage wird durch den Einsatz sartorialer Ausstattungsdetails verfeinert und in eine vielschichtige, aus reduzierten Dessinierungen, Druckbildern und traditionellen Kleinmustern zusammengesetzte Materialpalette übersetzt. „Wool & Abstractions“ erweitert das Konzept um neuartige, aus klassischen Suitings abgeleitete Wollqualitäten und softe Flanelle.

STATEMENT EFFECTS

Der Themenschwerpunkt bildet einen festen Bestandteil in der Kollektionsaussage. Die Basis hierfür liefern Drucke und Dessinierungen, die ein Spektrum von großflächigen Rapporten bis zu Mikromusterungen und von grafischer Abstraktion bis zu naturalistischen Motiven abdecken. Charakteristisch für die neue Saison sind groß aufgezogene, markant kolorierte Canadian-Checks. „Velvet Spirit“ stellt bedruckte Samte und gestreifte Velvet-Optiken heraus, die den farblichen und haptischen Appeal des Warenbildes intensivieren.

DIE FARBEN

Marineblau bildet zusammen mit Weiß, Wedgwood-Blau und Bleu die Basis der neuen Saison. Dem klassischen Grundakkord werden in den drei Lieferterminen markante, modern angemischte Akzente gegenübergestellt. Der erste Liefertermin zeigt eine Kombination aus Granatrot und Piniengrün. Ein Zweiklang aus leuchtendem Umbra und Royalblau liefert einen starken Impuls und verstärkt die Aussagekraft des zweiten Liefertermins. Im dritten Liefertermin wird der Basisakkord von einem Kalt-Warm-Kontrast aus Portwein und Pazifikblau begleitet.

Sustainable packaging solutions are a hot topic all over the world. Sappi, market leader in innovative packaging barrier and sealable papers, is already producing such solutions and can point to numerous successful examples. Demand from customers and interested parties from a wide spectrum of industries continues to grow. The world’s leading paper and paperboard manufacturer therefore recently added two new grammages to its Sappi Seal range. In addition to the 67 g/m² version, the new 85 g/m² and 100 g/m² papers enable branded goods manufacturers to package an even more extensive variety of products with this functional paper – either as primary or secondary packaging.

The requirements for packaging papers are becoming increasingly demanding. They need to offer greater functionality, be environmentally friendly, recyclable and provide optimal protection for the packaged products. While many paper manufacturers are still talking about such multi-functional solutions, the innovation leader Sappi has already expanded its portfolio. The 85 g/m² and 100 g/m² grammages are now available in the Sappi Seal product family. Converters and manufacturers of food products, such as sugar, tea and confectionery, as well as non-food items, like children’s toys and DIY products, now have even more possibilities to use this functional paper and move from fossil-based materials to environmentally friendly packaging. The wide range of projects that Sappi has already completed for well-known customers, highlight its relevance for the market.

Of the twelve participating denim mills who took part in Habitat 21 – a special Smart Creation showcase at the recent Denim Première Vision exhibition in London – no less than eleven were valued Monforts ‘Denimized’ finishing technology users.

The aim of Habitat 21 was to highlight those companies taking an eco-responsible approach to denim manufacturing via the use of recycled, organic and bio-based fibres, in combination with resource-saving dyeing and finishing technologies. Monforts customers involved in the project were Advance Denim, Berto, Bossa, Calik, Evlox/Tavex, Kilim, Naveena, Orta Anadalou, Rajby Industries, Raymond Uco and Soorty. Their innovations were detailed in a major presentation on trends for the Spring/Summer 2021 season by Manon Mangin of the Première Vision Fashion Team, based on three key themes – Sensation, Hybridisation and Expansion.

• First glass fiber based leaf spring project in series by Ford worldwide
• From development to serial production

Since midyear, SGL Carbon has produced longitudinal leaf springs made of glass fiber-based composite for Ford Transit rear axles in series. The springs are used in combination with the Transit Skeleton chassis. Thus, they are applied where high payloads play an important role, for example in caravanning models or specific commercial vehicle variants of the Transit. In comparison to conventional leaf springs, the innovative composite leaf spring weighs about 50 percent less while offering increased security standards. The serial application is supported by a one-to-one compatibility with standard steel springs.

Bemberg™ supports the new generation of Italian sartorial style

In Florence, Bemberg™ presents an 8-pieces tailoring collection commissioned to and developed with students of the renowned Scuola Triennale di Alta Sartoria Maschile dell’Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori in Rome as well as with prominent lining manufacturers as Brunello S.p.A., Gianni Crespi Foderami S.p.A., Tessitura Marco Pastorelli S.p.A. and Manifattura Pezzetti Srl.

“We couldn’t have started the new year in a better and most promising way!” Says TAKESHI IITAKA, president of Asahi Kasei fibers Italia. The Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers has tasked students at the Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori excellences. The designers of tomorrow created 8 contemporary clothing teaming up with prominent lining manufacturers that offered premium jacquard, striped and dotted materials in vivid colors that follow the seasonal trends. Yarn dyed options made unique by impactful contemporary designs that create interesting contrasts with the tailoring proposals.

The participation at Pitti is the first of a global tour pointing to some of the most cutting edge design innovations on planet Fashion. The next appointments include ISPO in Munich and Première Vision New York.

At each appointment the company will showcase a different aspect of its multitasking and sustainable imprint.

Paris Companies Inc. recently achieved Clean Green re-certification. This re-certification reflects their continued dedication to operational efficiency and sustainability.

Paris Companies Inc. first earned the Clean Green Certification in 2012. Companies that have earned this certification adhere to TRSA-designated water and energy use thresholds and deploy best management practices (BMPs) consistent with the ASTM International environmental laundering standard. Paris Companies’ customers can be assured their uniforms, towels and other reusable linens are washed, dried and finished with processes that maximize sustainability and reduce greenhouse emissions. Clean Green certified operations demonstrate significant commitment to conservation and green operations through these BMPs:

• Recovering heat from drained hot water and heat dispersed from the process of warming water
• Recapturing drained water from rinses for reuse
• Using environmentally friendly detergents
• Removing solids and liquids from wastewater
• Solar energy and energy-efficient lighting
• Recycling programs
• Re-routing trucks to save vehicle fuel
• Spill prevention plans

The Clean Green certification is valid for three years at a time. TRSA inspects laundry facilities seeking certification and approves documentation of their water and energy use and BMP deployment through production reports they submit to auditors during the inspections. TRSA’s certification management protocol includes auditor training by the association’s inspection program administrator.

Myant Inc. and Osmotex AG have agreed to enter into a joint venture for the commercialization of Osmotex’s HYDRO_BOT active membrane technology across various textile-based applications. The integration of HYDRO_BOT with Myant’s existing portfolio of textile-based sensing and actuating capabilities opens up new possibilities across a wide range of domains including sweat/moisture management and thermal regulation.

HYDRO_BOT technology is capable of moving 200 liters of fluid across a square meter of textile every hour via an electroosmotic process, providing a practically limitless ability to manage moisture in textile applications. Applied in conjunction with Myant’s existing capability to deliver heat via textile and to achieve effective passive moisture wicking via novel knitted structures, the combination of technologies is poised to dramatically improve the ability to regulate body temperature in applications such as personal protective equipment for workers in heavy industry, protective gear for workers in hot desert-like climates, performance wear like snow suits or skiing apparel in cold climates, footwear, motorcycling apparel, and more. In addition to apparel, significant market opportunities exist in the moisture management as applied to the automotive industry and in the healthcare industry.

“The creation of this joint venture between Myant and Osmotex reinforces our mission to develop textiles as bidirectional interfaces to the human body capable of optimizing health and performance across all spheres of life,” said Tony Chahine, founder and CEO of Myant. “Our team is excited to begin integrating HYDRO_BOT into our textiles and bringing this transformative technology to market.”

“We are excited to be working together with Myant to realize the full potential of the HYDRO_BOT technology,” said Joacim Holter, Managing Director and Chairman of the Board for Osmotex AG. “Myant’s ability to integrate our technology and to produce at scale all under one roof made them an ideal partner to help make our vision a reality.”

Following an in-depth analysis of the current business situation conducted by the new Group Management, Autoneum expects a net loss in the high double-digit million range for the full year 2019 due to the situation in North America and related one-time charges from impairments. Therefore, achieving the communicated mid-term targets will take more time.

A comprehensive assessment by the new Group Management focusing on Business Group North America and taking into account the course of business from January to November 2019 led to a revaluation of the situation. It has become apparent that the problems in North America are not limited to two US plants and deficient ramp-ups there. Accordingly, a comprehensive turnaround program focusing on operational excellence and the improvement of cost structures is being developed and implemented in Business Group North America.

As a result of the slowdown in the automotive industry and the continuing low market level forecasted in the medium term, the cost structure at the Group’s headquarters in Winterthur, Switzerland, has been adjusted, among other things, by selective staff reduction. To further reinforce new mobility activities, they will be concentrated at the Research and Technology Center in Winterthur. This will include the relocation of the Competence Center New Mobility from Sunnyvale (CA), USA, to Winterthur.

Due to the continuing losses of Business Group North America, Autoneum expects a net loss for the financial year 2019 in the high double-digit million range. In addition to current operating losses, this also includes one-time charges from impairments which are not cash-effective. To achieve the Group’s mid-term targets announced in March (“2019 Year of tidying, 2020 Year of transition, 2021 Return to sound profitability level), an additional year will therefore be needed.

The Bangladesh international player presents its unique eco-innovation path and a specialhigh-end capsule collection in collaboration with PG DENIM.

GENESIS:M&J Group comes back at the Denim Première Vison London (3-4 December) marking a positive end of the 2019, with new objectives for the future. The leading facility of the Group has affirmed itself as one of the most reliable international garment manufacturer, especially in denim market, and now it is time for another leap forward. The aim is to target more in depth the high fashion denim market in Europe with renowned proposals towards a more authentic, comfortable and sustainable denim offer.

The first output to underline the new approach is the high-end capsule collection realized in collaboration with PG DENIM, that premiered at the show
A collection where the great industrial experience and quality in garment manufacturing of GENESIS meets, in a perfect and inspiring contamination, the 100% Italian artisanal craft and unique interpretation of PG DENIM fabrics. A complete co-branding that has given life to unique garments with dedicated tags and hangtags, to show a fashionable, sustainable and high-quality final output, entirely produced in Bangladesh. The perfect meeting to provide a great example of how this collaborative path with European top-quality player could lead to a new positioning for the company.

The improvements achieved by GENESIS are enhanced also in the s/s 2021 collection with new trends involving eco-conscious fabrics such as organic cotton, recycled fabric and polymer, realizing blends with natural fibers like hemp & linen while working also with a wide variety of biodegradable materials. Technical fibers are also on the spotlight with an increasing importance gained by proofed lightweights such as waterproof. Moods like hyper blue, natural cotton colors, flat bright indigo mid shades or urban grey and reactive layers dominates the feeling of the new collection. In terms of looks and treatments the collection has developed several unique interpretations such as engineered garments, digital laser patterns, wester silhouettes, workwear, soft dyes, contemporary stripes, dirty green cast and eco-acid wash. A kaleidoscopic collection where technology and tradition meet one unique big trend: more sustainable than ever.

At the Shanghaitex trade fair Mayer & Cie. China (MCN) exhibited its new machine for manufacturing three-thread fleece. The MFC 3.2 is the first in-house development by the German circular knitting machine manufacturer’s Chinese subsidiary. It produces light to heavy linings and is specially geared to processing polyester yarn. The MFC 3.2 will be available from spring 2020; the material it produces is used in sports- and leisurewear.

“Three-thread fleece linings are popular all over the world,” says Marcus Mayer, Mayer & Cie.’s technical director, “albeit with important regional differences. In Europe and America customers appreciate heavier, warm cotton fabrics, whereas in Asia light, fluffy fabrics made of mixed synthetic fibres are preferred. That is why the MFC 3.2 is a major addition to our Chinese portfolio.“

MFC 3.2: Tried and trusted basis, market-specific alignment
The new Chinese three-thread fleece machine is based on the established Mayer & Cie. MBF 3.2, the qualities of which deliver the goods in the MFC 3.2. They include the high quality of material on both sides of the fabric and the production of challenging weaves. At the same time, the Chinese Mayer & Cie. team attached importance to catering for local requirements, first and foremost processing polyester yarns. Thanks to cam parts developed in-house the new machine performs these tasks reliably and efficiently. At up to 30 rpm on a 30-inch diameter cylinder the MFC 3.2 produces three-thread fleece for sports- and leisurewear.

The MFC 3.2 is more than a three-thread fleece machine, however. A conversion kit transforms it into the MSC 3.2 II, the most popular machine in Mayer & Cie. China’s portfolio. The conversion works in both directions, which further upgrades the single jersey machine because “in the highly saturated Chinese single jersey market the fact that the MSC 3.2 II can be converted into a threethread fleece machine is an important selling point,” Managing Director Mayer notes.