From the Sector

From smart collections born from the collaboration with style-setting brands to the company’s ultimate yarns, the cutting-edge ingredients empowering sportwear with a responsible attitude.

For the 2020 edition of ISPO Munich, the influential fashion and textile fair dedicated to sportwear and athleisure-wear, ROICA™ has created an interactive booth inviting visitors to explore a backward path from the final sportwear to the yarn. The sustainable premium stretch fiber by leading materials manufacturer Asahi Kasei, has conceived the exhibition as a sort of ‘reversed’ journey in three acts.

THE NEXT LEVEL – For ROICA™, being a world’s leader in smart stretch is not enough. The company shows that responsible innovation is not only about how the premium yarn is made but its functionalities as well. “It’s time to go to the next level of innovation: empowering sustainability with additional performances”. At ISPO, ROICA™ presents the new Global Recycled Standard -GRS- certified ROICA™ EF which innovates with excellent dyability and the Cradle to Cradle Material Health Gold level-certified ROICA™ V550 yarn which allows excellent and durable printability.

THE ‘REVERSED’ JOURNEY: the first section of the backwards path showcases ROICA™’s ultimate collaborations for the contemporary wardrobe with leading brands. Guests are then guided to explore the cutting-edge innovation interwoven into high- performing textiles and finally led to discover the company’s sustainable yarns and ultimate products.

Fashion giant H&M Group and Danish retailer Coop are joining chemical expert NGO ChemSec’s call to action to end the use of harmful PFAS chemicals in products and supply chains.
This commitment comes on the same day as award-winning actor Mark Ruffalo and director Todd Haynes address the EU Parliament to speak about the true story that inspired the duo’s latest film Dark Waters, in which an environmental attorney takes on chemical giant DuPont and exposes decades of PFAS pollution.
ChemSec’s corporate PFAS initiative includes:

• A call on policy makers to regulate PFAS efficiently, without the possibility for manufacturers to simply swap one PFAS chemical for an unregulated “cousin”.
• A call on the chemical industry to put money into innovation and develop safer alternatives to PFAS for all kinds of products.
• A recognition that PFAS are a major health and environmental problem.
• A serious commitment to end all non-essential PFAS uses in products and supply chains.
• A call on all other brands to join this commitment and work towards a phase-out of PFAS in all kinds of consumer products.

The single biggest problem with PFAS is that, with very few exceptions, they are perfectly legal to use. This means that the brands and retailers who want to stop it from being used as ingredients in their products have very limited ways of communicating this in the global supply chain. As long as there is not a restriction in place, suppliers will continue to use these very effective chemicals in manufacturing.  

PFAS, short for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, is a chemical family consisting of almost 5,000 industrially produced chemicals. In manufacturing, PFAS are favoured for their durability and well-functioning properties; they provide properties such as non-stick, water repellence and anti-grease to many types of products, including cosmetics, food packaging, frying pans, outdoor gear and firefighting foam.
The industrial use of PFAS has been so prevalent in the last decades that today 99% of every human, including foetuses, have measurable levels of PFAS in their bloodstreams.   
What is worrying is that human epidemiological studies have found associations between PFAS exposure and a number of health disorders, including various cancers, lowered birth weights and negative effects on the immune system.

The Lenzing Group completed the second pilot production plant announced in May 2018 for its innovative filament yarn TENCEL™ Luxe. Construction of the facility at the Lenzing site involving investments of EUR 30 mn could be concluded on schedule and within budget after 20 months of intensive work. The new pilot production line, which was put into operation in the middle of December 2019, gives Lenzing sufficient capacity for commercial programs and further application development.

Innovation in the eco-couture segment
Thanks to TENCEL™ Luxe, Lenzing is able to embed the issue of sustainability in the premium luxury market in combination with superior aesthetics. The properties of the fine filament yarn can be compared to those of silk due to its airy feeling on the skin and the matte finish. At the same time, TENCEL™ Luxe also stands out because of its extensive strength and high level of environmental compatibility. It is perfectly suited for very fine fabrics and as a blending partner for silk, cashmere and wool. “TENCEL™ Luxe opens up new markets for Lenzing and thus contributes to the successful implementation of their sCore TEN corporate strategy.

At JEC World 2020, MECELEC COMPOSITES is a finalist of the JEC Innovation Awards in the Design & Furniture category. The Group announces the launch of a new sustainable development application on the urban design market. MECELEC COMPOSITES designed the first mass-produced flax fibre roofs for the 550 Morris columns installed by JCDecaux in Paris. “This is the first application of flax fibre BMC for mass production. The new solution combines all the advantages of composite materials, lightness and strength, with stringent environmental requirements and is adapted to the safety constraints of this kind of street furniture,” says Bénédicte Durand, Chief Executive Officer at MECELEC COMPOSITES.

A COMPOSITE ROOF THAT IS BOTH INNOVATIVE AND GREEN
The dome of the Morris columns is composed of 23 different parts, 14 of which are made from composite materials. To design the roof, MECELEC COMPOSITES developed a new RTM complex and a new BMC material, that is reinforced exclusively with a flax mat. “Today it is the only BMC with a 100% flax fibre reinforcement, which uses a partially recycled ABS resin. It was created specifically for this project and we had to work on the processes in order to adapt them to this new material,” explains Bertrand Vieille, Head of sales.
In the design, MECELEC COMPOSITES replaced the bonding process with a time-saving mechanical assembly process using an invisible fixing system.

AN ECO-FRIENDLY APPLICATION IN LINE WITH THE GROUP’S ECO-DESIGN CSR APPROACH
MECELEC COMPOSITES creates scalable, sustainable and environmentally-friendly street furniture. The Group is committed to developing a sustainable production process and reuses all its waste materials. MECELEC COMPOSITES R&D laboratory promotes eco-design with a process of characterisation and mechanical sizing of parts. “For this project, we imagined, created, produced and delivered a mass-produced composite application with a low environmental impact within less than a year. At the end of its lifecycle, the product completely breaks down, leaving no fibre residue,” Bénédicte Durand concludes.

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

• Flexographic printing press includes award-winning SteadyPrint anti-bounce technology

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), part of Barry-Wehmiller, has announced the sale of a second Fusion C printing press to Legacy Flexo Corp. in Green Bay. “We are excited to be purchasing a second Fusion C flexographic press,” said Dan Aberly, Operations and Sales, Legacy Flexo. “We’ve experienced a lot of success with our first Fusion C, which has allowed us to offer our customers more efficient runs. The fact that PCMC has been a true partner with us, providing exceptional quality and service, and is local to us were also deciding factors.”

The Fusion C has a smaller footprint with fewer parts, but incorporates many fast make-ready and waste-saving features, including the innovative SteadyPrint technology. Winner of the 2019 FTA Technical Innovation Award, SteadyPrint significantly reduces the effects of bounce when printing graphics with hard edges due to its bearing arrangement, which is coupled with an algorithm utilizing noise-canceling technology. With patents pending on all features, SteadyPrint is currently the only product on the market using this kind of technology to eliminate disturbances and provide real-time monitoring.

In the 2019 `Hot-Button´ report issued by the forest conservation organisation Canopy, Kelheim Fibres attained a “green shirt” ranking. Many fashion brands already value the `Hot-Button´ report as a reliable indicator for sustainability for viscose fibre producers.

Raw material wood sourced only from certified sustainable forestry
The CanopyStyle initiative aims to achieve that no wood from ancient and endangered forests is used to produce viscose fibres. The audited companies must prove that they avoid these fibres and have implemented appropriate rules and procedures to check the origin of the wood. Performance in the areas environmental protection and innovation have been examined and evaluated by qualified external auditors; the report will be posted publicly in the first quarter of 2020.

Sustainable fibres for a changing market
“For years now Kelheim Fibres has consistently recognised the importance of sustainability and environmental protection. Now that resource saving and alternatives to plastics are of focal interest to the public and to the economy, our products are meeting with an even better reception from the market. Fibres produced in Germany with low emissions from certified sustainable timber meet the needs of customers seeking products that have a low risk of sourcing from ancient and endangered forests. “Having been awarded a `green shirt´ in the `Hot-Button´ ranking once again underlines this absolutely clearly!” says Matthew North, Commercial Director at Kelheim Fibres.

Cepi, the European association representing the paper industry, has announced a new alliance called 4evergreen. The aim of the alliance is to boost the contribution of fibre-based packaging in a circular and sustainable economy that minimises climate and environmental impact. The alliance will increase awareness about the benefits of fibre-based packaging materials, advocate for EU legislation supporting product design for recyclability and call for the development of optimised collection systems and appropriate recycling infrastructures.

The rise of environmental awareness and consumer concerns, as well as the increase of packaging focused regulation, such as the Single Use Plastics Directive, have helped companies to accelerate the development of alternative packaging materials including fibre-based packaging with a view to helping consumers make more climate-friendly choices.

4evergreen was created as a forum to engage and connect industry members from across the fibre-based packaging value chain, from paper and board producers to packaging converters, brand-owners and retailers, technology and material suppliers, waste sorters and collectors.

“The 4evergreen alliance is important because it was born from an initiative of consumer product industry leaders who recognize the huge potential of fibre-based packaging in a circular economy” said Susanne Oste, VP Innovation and Sustainability at Sappi. “Their customers want sustainable packaging and fibre-based products provide the most climate-friendly solution available. Sappi is proud to play a part in this industry alliance. We have been investing heavily for more than 10 years in cutting edge research into real solutions for the problems that confront our customers. A recent success is the launch of the only fully recyclable confectionary wrapper on the market today.”

Archroma announced its transition plan for the function of Chief Executive Officer. The Board of Directors of Archroma has appointed Heike van de Kerkhof to succeed current CEO Alexander Wessels effective January 6, 2020. Mr. Wessels has held the CEO position at Archroma since the Company was established in October 2013 and will be appointed as Vice Chairman of the Company’s Board of Directors. He will also take on a Senior Advisory role within SK Capital working across its portfolio of investments, which includes Archroma.

Alexander Wessels commented, “I feel privileged to have been given the opportunity to work with SK Capital and the Archroma team over the past six and a half years, which has really been an incredible journey. We are coming off another record year in terms of profitability and the business is uniquely positioned to capitalize on its significant momentum moving forward. For me personally, this is the ideal moment to take on my next challenge and in Heike we have found the ideal person to pass the baton to. We look forward to a seamless transition and I am excited to continue to support the Company as a member of the Board of Directors.”

“I have a true passion for innovation and sustainability, and I am thrilled to join Archroma as its next CEO,” Heike van de Kerkhof commented. “The Company has established itself as a leader in sustainable chemistry based on its strong technology-driven product portfolio with a solid foundation to further build upon. I believe Archroma is uniquely positioned to support its customers’ manufacturing processes in a cost effective and sustainable manner. The investments made into research and technology during the first stage of SK Capital’s ownership have positioned Archroma to reach new levels of growth and success.”

The Bangladesh international player presents its unique eco-innovation path and a specialhigh-end capsule collection in collaboration with PG DENIM.

GENESIS:M&J Group comes back at the Denim Première Vison London (3-4 December) marking a positive end of the 2019, with new objectives for the future. The leading facility of the Group has affirmed itself as one of the most reliable international garment manufacturer, especially in denim market, and now it is time for another leap forward. The aim is to target more in depth the high fashion denim market in Europe with renowned proposals towards a more authentic, comfortable and sustainable denim offer.

The first output to underline the new approach is the high-end capsule collection realized in collaboration with PG DENIM, that premiered at the show
A collection where the great industrial experience and quality in garment manufacturing of GENESIS meets, in a perfect and inspiring contamination, the 100% Italian artisanal craft and unique interpretation of PG DENIM fabrics. A complete co-branding that has given life to unique garments with dedicated tags and hangtags, to show a fashionable, sustainable and high-quality final output, entirely produced in Bangladesh. The perfect meeting to provide a great example of how this collaborative path with European top-quality player could lead to a new positioning for the company.

The improvements achieved by GENESIS are enhanced also in the s/s 2021 collection with new trends involving eco-conscious fabrics such as organic cotton, recycled fabric and polymer, realizing blends with natural fibers like hemp & linen while working also with a wide variety of biodegradable materials. Technical fibers are also on the spotlight with an increasing importance gained by proofed lightweights such as waterproof. Moods like hyper blue, natural cotton colors, flat bright indigo mid shades or urban grey and reactive layers dominates the feeling of the new collection. In terms of looks and treatments the collection has developed several unique interpretations such as engineered garments, digital laser patterns, wester silhouettes, workwear, soft dyes, contemporary stripes, dirty green cast and eco-acid wash. A kaleidoscopic collection where technology and tradition meet one unique big trend: more sustainable than ever.