From the Sector

Heimtextil will launch the new 2020/2021 trend season with the general theme “WHERE I BELONG”. For the official Heimtextil Trend Preview, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam director Anne Marie Commandeur  introduced the new design themes. The presentation in the run-up to Heimtextil (7-10 January 2020) took place at the Textile Museum’s Textile Lab in Tilburg, the Netherlands on 11 September 2019 and was streamed worldwide.

This season, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam is responsible for the Trend Book content and Trend Space implementation at the upcoming international trade fair for home and contract textiles. Alongside Stijlinstituut Amsterdam, London-based studio FranklinTill and Danish agency SPOTT trends & business contributed to the 20/21 global forecast for perspective-related interior design. Together with the Heimtextil management team, these Trend Council participants gave insights into future styles during a workshop.

At the annual international Trend Council workshop, identity was an ever-present topic: part of a broader discussion on gender and cultural diversity, on tolerance and curiosity. Today, the self-identification process seems more complex than ever. Identities are now formed through experiences that take place simultaneously, on different levels. Locally, nationally, globally, both online and offline. Identity therefore can consist of many different layers. In fact, individuals can all have multilayered identities.

Heimtextil Trends 20/21 Overview:

MAXIMUM GLAM

Pleasure seekers revel in layering theatrical influences and glamorous showtime aesthetics, forging a fantastic marriage between the crafted and digitally rendered. Textiles show a ‘more is more’ attitude through a mash-up of glam, gradients and spectrums, fake fur, pile and fringe, jacquard weaves and fantastic prints. The flashy, kitsch colour range becomes brutally glam thanks to electric sheen, synthetic shimmer, digital glitch and artful blur. A riot of clashes and rebellion.

PURE SPIRITUAL

Idealists seek perfection and purity, restoring equilibrium by connecting with the uber-natural. They embrace technology for good while shifting between realism and mysticism in pursuit of a personal haven. To address a renewed bond with nature, organic matter, raw materials and pure textiles are selected which show nature’s traces, organic structures and irregularities. Shades are created from the earth and cultured by man. An elemental and pure range reflects the source of their existence.

ACTIVE URBAN

Urban dwellers confront the challenges of the fast paced, shape-shifting, man-made environment by searching for utilitarian, adaptable solutions. They value tech performance while making smart use of  available and renewable resources. Functionality is prioritised, while looking cool and working well remains key. Interior/sportswear hybrid textiles show smooth surfaces and a fun mash-up of graphic textures. The palette shows uniform blue, asphalt grey and caterpillar yellow.

HERITAGE LUX

Preservers of historic legacies treasure sensuousness alongside the uncanny, enlightenment together with darkness, for a whole new immersive experience. This new narrative translates to a love for luxury and splendour, decoration and embellishment. Finding beauty in history and nature through ornamental patterning and alluring surface enhancement. Reflecting on ancient history results in a palette featuring enigmatic blood red, sapphire and a lustrous mother-of-pearl.

MULTI-LOCAL

Hyper-locals go global, celebrating inclusivity over appropriation, honouring traditional craftsmanship and adjusting the world’s gaze to embrace exchange, creative integrity and diverse identities. Indigenous style meets global influences. This is a celebration of crafted and decorative pattern, from tribal and folkloric to geometric and abstract. Textile colours become part of a wider cultural narrative, linked to local community, cultural heritage and private identity.

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• Empowering fashion with responsible R&D, cutting edge finishing and a Made in Italy design imprint

Paris - “The soul of sustainable fashion is an alchemy, a combined commitment and an act of responsibility”. This is the motto ‘embossed’ in the collections and the values of Italian Converter. At Première Vision, the leading manufacturer celebrates its 25th anniversary and presents E.C.O. KOSMOS, a cross-collection, a brand-new ‘green line’ range’ and a winning formula shining a light on the company’s responsible path and unique ‘blend’ for the fashion of tomorrow.

The acronym E.C.O. stands for Ecologic, Conversion, Optimisation; three unique concepts and values that truly embody Italian Converter DNA: sustainability, transformative process and quality improvement.
For over 25 years, Italian Converter creates high-quality materials for some of the leading fashion and accessories brands. “Made in Italy and sustainability are part of our DNA.” Says Costantino Karazissis, founder of Italian Converter. “We believe that responsible sourcing and processes as well as a deep research into new technology pathways and a market-savvy taste for material design must be the starting point.”

At the core of the company’s responsible alchemy is also the constant research for the perfect balance of 100% Made in Italy materials. “We proudly collaborate with 120 skilled employees producing new hybrid material innovations daily, attracting partnerships from the best high-end brands both in Italy and abroad”.

Toupe and brick red E.C.O. Graffiti (100% linen) on E.C.O. Aurora (cotton and AMNI SOUL ECO®)

E.C.O. KOSMOS is entirely traceable, transparent, 100%made in Italy. The collection walks through a very complete and balanced range sustainable materials - from natural to eco high tech ones- that are transformed, enriched and valued in 9 high-tech cutting-edge innovations thanks to the Italian Converter expertise.
•    The natural line starts from bases of cotton bonded with AMNI SOUL ECO®, an enhanced polyamide 6.6 that degrades within 5 years instead of decades, as other conventional ones do.
•    The stretch innovations start from bases in GRS-certified Newlife™, a cutting-edge premium recycled polyester created using a High-Tech Conversion Model. Thanks to a mechanical process, used plastic bottles are turned into a top-quality polymer and yarn which is 100% traceable and 100% Made in Italy. The whole process takes place within a 100 square km area in Piedmont in Northern Italy.
 
All the references make use only of water-based resins and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified dying. The result, is resistant and transpiring solutions which come with bold and high-performing features, with a soft touch or even with a silky, yet strong, and enveloping feel. The designs range from rustic to contemporary and nod to jacquard, ‘authentic look’ and ‘drill’ hints. An ideal solution for footwear, apparel and leather goods.

Long story short? No compromises. E.C.O. Kosmos reflects design, innovation and responsible values, as well as 100% Italian Converter know-how.
 
“But this is just the beginning,” adds Karazissis. “The next step we are going to implement in the E.C.O. Kosmos cross-collection is a progressive integration of our triple-expertise, processes and R&D.” A sustainable step forward, a leap woven into a deep expertise a story to-be-continued. For a better future, this is for sure.

Keynote by Wilson Zhu (COO at Li & Fung) on digitizing global supply chains and interview with Jason Prescott (CEO JP Communications) on ATSG's concept, goals and program

From 11 to 13 September, the textile trade fair Apparel Textile Sourcing Germany (ATSG) will take place for the first time in Berlin. 200 manufacturers from all over the world will present the latest developments and trends in the global apparel and textile market. Manufacturers for the mass market as well as producers supplying brands or retailers with smaller retail ranges will present themselves. A large number of
international experts from the textile industry will be giving lectures and discussing the future of the market. Admission is free.

The ATSG is organized by JP Communications Inc. (JPC). With trade fairs under the umbrella brand ATS (Apparel Textile Sourcing), the company is already a well-known player in the North American textile and clothing industry. JP Communications operates the most extensive network of B2B sourcing platforms in the USA. TopTenWholesale.com and Manufacturer.com are used by millions of international members to find suitable wholesalers and manufacturers. The ATSG is supported by a large number of local and European organisations from industry, trade and commerce as well as international consulates.

For the first time, Italian textile company Manteco showcases its ultimate innovations at Première Vision’s Smart Creation, the fair’s most cutting edge epicentre showcasing visionary innovators pushing for a sustainable change and making the difference in the fashion business. The Prato-based company is leader in the production New Generation Recycled Wool thanks to a specially designed KM0, traceable and circular economy model.

Behind the sustainable approach and the premium quality textiles there are generations of ‘saper fare’ - know-how, in Italian -, indeed, Manteco’s products are not only responsibly Made in Italy but imbued with the skills of the artisans and makers working within 10 kms around the company. “Made in Italy does not mean processing high-quality materials with international technologies and then label the final product for export. It means products grown, taken care of and handcrafted in the country.” Says Matteo Mantellassi, CEO of Manteco. “But there’s a further step to this: harnessing the local ‘genius loci’, meaning the skills, traditions and human potential of a territory. We are proud to say that since 1943 we have always been 100% Made in Italy.”

Intelligente Textilien sollen die Lagerung von Patienten optimieren, bei der Medikamentenversorgung unterstützen und die Lieferung verderblicher Lebensmittel überwachen.

Im ersten Halbjahr 2019 haben fünf Umsetzungsvorhaben im Projekt futureTEX erfolgreich ihre Forschungsarbeit beendet. Zum futureTEX-Symposium am 2. Juli 2019 stellten die Koordinatoren die Ergebnisse einem interdisziplinären Publikum von Wissenschaftlern und Industrievertretern vor. Dabei rückten sie die wirtschaftliche Verwertbarkeit ihrer Forschungen in den Mittelpunkt und zeigten disruptive Anwendungsszenarien auf, die von der Medizinbranche über den Sportbekleidungsmarkt bis zum Logistikbereich reichten.

A revolutionary new system for yarn dyeing based on the proven Econtrol® dyeing system for fabrics will be introduced by A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20-26.

This latest CYD denim processing technology integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparatory processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity.

“Denim finishing is a field in which Monforts has an undisputed lead and we have been working closely with our many partners in the key denim manufacturing countries of China, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Mexico and Brazil to develop new advanced solutions,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Gerhard Wroblowski. “The CYD system has been developed in response to a very strong market demand.”

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Milano Unica fair with a range of innovations capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko – Tex®).

For the circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. (MCT) this year’s ITMA ended with a satisfactory result. From 20 to 26 June 2019 the company had five machines on show at the leading industry trade fair in Barcelona. The industry leader’s focus was on sporting uses, with one exhibit dedicated to Mayer & Cie.’s innovative ideas. Digital offerings that Mayer & Cie. put together under the name knitlink rounded off the presentation. The platform includes a web shop, remote maintenance options and recording and evaluation of machine data for the customer and is to be further expanded in the future.

Huntsman Textile Effects will be highlighting its extensive range of HIGH IQ® intelligent effects at the Functional Fabric Fair power by Performance Days in New York this July. Huntsman’s comprehensive range of non-fluorinated Durable Water Repellency technology will also be presented at the upcoming show.

Through our cutting-edge technology and expert technical knowledge, High IQ® delivers the industry’s leading range of innovative, eco-friendly intelligent textile effects. Fabrics treated with our intelligent effects are sustainable textile products that deliver the performance and benefits consumers expect of high-quality brands.

• Contracts signed for seven projects
• Contract comprises delivery of compact- and ring-spinning systems
• Total amounts to roughly CHF 180 million
• Order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019; sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years

Rieter Group has signed contracts with the Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, Cairo (Egypt), at the ITMA 2019. These seven projects entail a total of 180 million Swiss francs. The contract comprises delivery of compact- and ring-spinning systems over the next two years. This order is part of a comprehensive modernization program of the Egyptian textile industry. The order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019 with sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years.

The contracts were signed at the ITMA in Barcelona, Spain, by Dr. Ahmed Moustafa Mohamed, Chairman Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, and Dr. Norbert Klapper, CEO Rieter.

Dr. Klapper was very pleased at the formal signing of contracts: “We would like to thank our Egyptian business partners for the confidence they are placing in Rieter by awarding us this contract. Rieter has been the partner of choice of the Egyptian spinning industry for decades. We are delighted to be given the opportunity of making such an important contribution to the modernization of the Egyptian textile industry.”