Textination Newsline

• Companies expand branch network

Bonn (GTAI) - Thanks to the constantly good economic situation, the Germans are in best consumer mood. Turkish retailers also want to benefit from this and are expanding their store network in Germany. However, in order to be successful in the country, they have to respect a lot. Turkish investments in production facilities are seldom in Germany. However -the location offers a decisive advantage to the companies.

Modern furnished industrial lofts characterize the picture of the Düsseldorf Schwanenhöfe. Scenery restaurants, studios and companies have recently established themselves on the former chemical site in the district of Flingern. Since September 2017, the Turkish glass manufacturer Pasabahce became represented here with a showroom. On nearly 300 square meters expensive wine glasses, carafes and numerous other glass products are exhibited. After New York, Madrid, Milan, Shanghai and Moscow, it is the sixth outlet outside Turkey for the Istanbul company. Pasabahce is part of the Sisecam Group and one of the largest glass producers in the world.
 
Most Turkish investors come from the clothing industry
Turkish companies are currently focusing on the consumer goods market in Germany and are opening up business like Pasabahce. The investment focus is on the apparel market. Of the 211 projects by Turkish companies listed the Financial Times fDi-intelligence database between 2003 and 2017, every fifth is assigned to the textile and clothing industry. Another 11 percent comes from areas such as the furniture or cosmetics industry. For most traders, the local Turkish community does not play a major role as a target group. The Turkish companies are competing with other international brands in the German market for a broad western consumer group.

Turkish fashion houses are expanding
This includes the newcomer Yargici, which opened  four stores in top location throughout Germany in 2017. It was the first foreign engagement of the Istanbul clothing company. "In this and the coming years, more branches will be added, after all, we did not come to Germany to open just a few stores only", Germany boss Erik Schaap explains confidently.

The Turkish fashion company Sarar has been present here for over 17 years. In the year 2000 it opened its first branch on the Düsseldorf Königsallee. Since then, the company has invested about EUR 15 million in the country and opened eight boutiques. Sarar also wants to continue growing and is planning to reach 20 stores by 2020. However, Turkish retailers in Germany do not find it easy, as Sarar Europe GmbH marketing manager Salim Ünyeli admits: "The competition is very strong due to the ubiquity of Zara, H & M and Co. Most consumers do not know Turkish labels and prefer for the same price known Western brands."
"The tensions between Germany and Turkey have damaged our business, and potential customers are deterred from buying from a Turkish company." (Marketing Manager Salim Üniyeli of Sarar Europe GmbH.

Who thinks Turkish, fails
Turkey expert Suat Bakir knows the typical pitfalls for Turkish companies looking to start a business in Germany. Bakir is the capital representative of the German-Turkish Trade Association (DTW) and was previously managing director of the Turkish-German Chamber of Commerce and Industry for seven years. "Many fail because they do not spend money on professional advice and ask a Turkish acquaintance for advice instead," Bakir said. Gastronomy and clothing chain in particular have a high fluctuation rate, because it is particularly important in these segments to find and use the right location and a suitable marketing. "Anyone who thinks in Germany like a Turk and does not adapt its products to German consumer taste will not succeed on the long term," Bakir says. Because of the strained relations between the two countries, he advises against introducing a Turkish brand on the German market right now: "The German tourist, who is currently avoiding Turkey, will probably not buy from a Turkish company."
 
Deutsche Bogenn opens factory
Although only very few Turkish companies have invested in production facilities in Germany so far, Suat Bakir recognizes potential in this area. Turkish companies could adopt the positively occupied brand made in Germany, if they would manufacture in the country. The most recent example is the company Deutsche Bogenn, which opened a new plant for plastic pipes last year on Rügen. Behind the extra German sounding name the Turkish Dizayn Group is hided. From its new location, the company wants to produce pipes for various infrastructure projects with 100 employees and sell them worldwide.

Low investment volume
Turkey so far has played a minor role as an investor in Germany - despite the many bilateral relations. Turkish companies have invested just EUR 1.8 billion in the Federal Republic. According to Suat Bakir a key reason is the low level of internationalization of Turkish companies. Another obstacle are the visa restrictions for Turkish business people. The DTW estimates that so far 1,300 companies of Turkish origin have settled in Germany, one in three in North Rhine-Westphalia alone. That is a merit of a committed location marketing. Suat Bakir recommends that all federal states should exploit the interest of Turkish companies and promote their state more in Turkey. Mecklenburg-Vorpommern has already recorded a recent success with the establishment of Deutsche Bogenn on Rügen.

After five action-packed days the world’s leading trade fair of the consumer goods industry finished in an upbeat mood today. Trade visitors from more countries than ever before spent their time networking and ordering the latest products from all over the world for their companies. They also obtained worthwhile stimuli for a digital future.

Occupying an exhibition space of 308,000 square metres (gross), [1] 4,441 exhibitors from 89 countries [2] revealed the trends of this coming business year. 81 per cent [3] of all exhibitors came from outside Germany, making Ambiente the most international consumer goods trade fair of all times. The proportion of senior international decision-makers across all trade sectors had gone up by six per cent compared with last year, making up 60 per cent of visitors. It was the highest share ever recorded. This led to good export transactions and an excellent mood in the halls. In total, 134,600 buyers from 168 countries [4] visited Frankfurt am Main to attend Ambiente. As expected, there were fewer German visitors in Frankfurt. This was partly due to changes in the German retail landscape, and partly because the event coincided with Carnival as well as school holidays in Germany’s southern states, while being dependent on the international trade fair calendar.

“Consumerism is fashionable! Ambiente hosts the entire world. Every February, the international consumer goods industry receives direction here for the entire year. This is impressively borne out by the number of orders and the quality of German and international buyers,” says Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board of Messe Frankfurt GmbH. A similarly positive conclusion is reached by Thomas Grothkopp, Managing Director of the German Trade Association for Residential Accommodation and Offices (HWB): “Ambiente has shown us once again that nothing can replace personal contact with new and existing suppliers and their innovative products. This trade fair in Frankfurt has totally met the expectations of the retail trade.”
The top ten visitor nations after Germany were Italy, China, France, the United States, the UK, the Netherlands, Spain, Turkey, Korea and Switzerland. Satisfaction ratings among visitors remained stable at an extremely high level of 96 per cent. Above-average growth in visitors’ numbers was recorded from China, Korea, Russia, the North African countries, South Africa, all of South America, Turkey, Lebanon and Cyprus.

Exhibitors’ voices

Despite a slight dip in Ambiente’s visitor numbers, the quality and number of visitors were just right. On this point all exhibitors at Ambiente were unanimous.

Dining

Birgit Dubberke, Marketing Director at BHS Tabletop, says:
“We keep being impressed by the internationalism of Ambiente – not just in terms of exhibitors, but also visitors. It’s the meeting point of the industry. It’s a place for making valuable contacts with countries we’d normally never get to. As I see it, the HoReCa market is very much up and coming. The visitors are different, requiring a more emotive appeal – as private individuals – and this is reflected in the restaurants, hotels and the food. And we can also see it at Ambiente. The demand is there.“
Maren Lehmann, Director of Internal Sales at the porcelain company Staatliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Meissen, says:
“Ambiente 2018 went very well for us. We reached our targets, and so we can be pleased with the results. Meissen presented itself in a new way. We wanted to show that we can do far more than be traditional – and we’ve succeeded. The trade fair provided us with an excellent platform. And the organisation was first class, too.”

Living

Alexander Haas, Sales Manager at Scholtissek, says:
“Whether it’s architects, hotels or restaurants and cafés, Ambiente attracts the B2B visitors we want to appeal to. Contract business went extremely well again this year: Both the quality and the number of visitors were just right. We achieved our sales targets, and we are pleased.”
Michael Rossmann, Managing Director at PAD Home, says:
“Ambiente has an international audience and a very good venue. Our stand had a great atmosphere, lovely products and committed staff. This is why things went so amazingly well for us at Ambiente 2018. When it comes to internationalism, then the trade fair was in an even better position this year: Our stand was visited by an unusual number of Italians, as well as Argentinians and other South Americans, which was quite new to us.”

Giving

Rebecca Staton, Sales Manager for France and Germany at Jellycat, says:
“The trade fair went pretty well for us. This was already the case last year, and so we are very pleased. Although there were lots of people just having a look, we also received a good number of orders. The quality of visitors was good, and so was the level of internationalism. France was there, lots of visitors from Germany, Luxembourg and Switzerland, and a few Asian countries. Another figure that met our expectations was the number of new customers we gained.”
Ralf Vogt, owner of Noi:
“We are pleased with the result. Ambiente went well for us, our collection was well received, and there is a general demand for it. Also, I can’t complain about the quality of visitors or their willingness to place orders: those who come to Ambiente are also authorised to place orders.”

Vaarwel Netherlands, Namaskar India!

The world’s leading trade fair ran very much under the Dutch banner in 2018. The traditional partner country presentation had been staged by the Dutch industrial designer Robert Bronwasser. DO DUTCH put consumer goods from the Netherlands into a new and unusual context. Also, numerous activities and events were held on the partner country day – all masterminded by Dutch organisers. The guest of honour attracting everyone’s attention at Ambiente yesterday was Sylvie Meis. The well-known TV presenter and entrepreneur, who is also from the Netherlands, went on a tour round the exhibition halls exploring modern design from the Netherlands and Germany. Next year’s Ambiente will be held from 8 to 12 February 2019 and will be focused very much on the Indian subcontinent.

Megatrends are becoming increasingly visible in the way we live.
Be it globalisation, urbanisation, digitalisation, individualisation or neo-ecology: German and international manufacturers are keeping pace with the times and are offering more and more options in their range of furniture and fittings. Customer needs can no longer be deduced from socio-demographic characteristics and target groups alone - people's lifestyles are too different for that these days. The megatrends influence the directions in which the additional options develop: They drive things forward and point out new directions at the same time.

The megatrend of individualisation has intensified in the furniture sector on at least two levels: The catalogues are bursting with diverse options and the internet is the first port of call to get an idea of what's on offer. Several portals offer tailored advice or allow you to furnish your own home in a virtual reality setting.

The megatrend of digitalisation has also impacted on the way we live in two very clear ways. When it comes to the products themselves, the "smart home" is becoming increasingly important. Many household appliances, doors and windows, white goods and heating control systems now come with applications that improve comfort and convenience in everyday life. The second element has far-reaching effects on our mood. The honest ones among us will admit their overexposure to various media. Within a minute of waking, most people have their smartphone in hand as they start their day. The sensory overload immediately begins, if not with a smartphone then with the television or radio triggering constant distraction and a desire for a multitude of things. We lose ourselves in the face of so many options (the weather, the stock market, breaking news, emails, recipes, music). When the back of your mind wakes up too - and with that a torrent of terms such as digital transformation, chatbots, bitcoins, blockchain, dash buttons begins to flow - you suddenly feel an urgent need to get a grip on reality. Old favourites are making a come-back. Vinyl records, classic cars and filter coffee are all enjoying a boom. In home furnishing, models from the "good old days" are hugely popular: the vintage look, retro, boho-chic, mid-century design. In our fast-paced age, it comes as no surprise that many people in the developed world have fallen in love with this style of furnishing. In the virtual world, we are looking for something real, or at least something purportedly real … and Pantone declares ultra violet the Colour of the Year 2018. It is an old acquaintance: clerical power, feminism, extravagance, drama, creativity, "the last attempt", mystical and spiritual, both future-oriented and traditional, but a counterculture most certainly. Denmark has given the world the "Hygge" phenomenon, a countervailing measure that brings cosiness back into our homes.

Two-thirds of Germans want their home to exude cosiness. Most people find that easier to achieve with an organic design language, authentic materials and warm colours than with cool, angular and minimalist furniture designs. Colourful combinations of furniture, wall colours, wallpaper, decorations and accessories are also popular because they help express the desired feeling of individuality.
 
Good lighting is becoming ever more important for the overall atmosphere in the home. LED lighting technology is now cost-effective, and can be found in the glass display case, behind the shelf or under the bed, making an important contribution to the home's cosy lighting ambience. The lighting industry's latest highlight is improved LED light batteries with long run-times. These flexible, portable and cable-free light sources are very handy for small apartments. This kind of small lamp can be used as a functional light in the kitchen, as a reading lamp at the table and as indirect illumination when chatting in the evening. In former times, candles were carried around the home, today we carry cutting-edge LED battery lamps. Talking about candles, the consumption of real candles has been growing steadily over the last five years. According to the European Candle Association (eca), each EU citizen consumed an average of 1.45 kg of candles (+6.2%) in 2016, with further growth expected. Opulent, Baroque-like candlesticks are in fashion, and help to create cosy living spaces. Candlelight is highly prized. Indeed, we could speak in terms of a digitalisation by candlelight. There is a close link between living style and the longed-for attitude to life. In times like these, it is not surprising that more and more people divide their world in two. On the one hand, they have a "private shire", as Stephan Grünewald from the Rheingold Institute calls it, in which they feel snug and safe. Then they have an external "grey country", an often frightening world of terror, globalisation, food scandals, Brexit and capricious political leaders. The private sphere is often designed as an idyllic retreat to make it easier to filter out the external world. This idyll is the counter-world to the hard and digital reality. It's all about nest-building, comfort, security and cosiness - a means of escaping the often-overwhelming anonymity of the external world.
 
Before the backdrop of globalisation, the home becomes the central location of identity. Furnishing their homes in a personal way gives people a sense of belonging. Identity is a matter of self-creation, not only in terms of the personality but also of the private environment. We form our identity on a day-to-day basis through the way we live. Many people perceive the world as an excess, and they see their own home as an identity-forming protected zone. The home is guarded, fashioned and loved. Security technology and creativity are spreading and the home is becoming the only enclave of informality. Following the maxim "The world is too much for me, I'm enough for myself", the home is a retreat, a refuge and an idyllic world.
 
In the modern age, populations tend to move from rural areas to the cities. For the first time in history, more than half the world's population now live in urban conglomerations. Major cities face two challenges that have long been identified: The constant need to find more living space, and managing the growing volume of traffic. When it comes to the way we live, the megatrend of urbanisation becomes more concrete in a number of respects. There is already a growing longing for ruralisation among city dwellers, while - paradoxically - new digital innovations are making possible new ways of working and living, far away from the smoke and smog of the city. It is already possible to work without a fixed base in a number of occupations. In future, the toilet lid in the smart home will regularly test the urine for signs of disease, taking care of prevention and making medical care plannable. Villages could experience a renaissance when drones deliver shopping, and electric driverless cars take children to school.

In the season ahead we will see the introduction of more organic forms, especially in the seating furniture sector. Organic design takes its cue from organic nature. Dynamic curves and powerful cambers come to the fore as striking characteristics. Organic design is soft and is therefore distinct from geometric and functional shapes. A wide range of natural fibres is on offer as upholstery fabrics for padded furniture, with corduroy and velvet playing a prominent role.   

The blue colour spectrum - from European blue and light blue to turquoise and petrol - remains popular. Blue represents harmony, imparts a sense of reliability, and has a pleasant calming effect. Olive green is the new trend colour, representing naturalness, spring, hope, health, youth, nature and vegetation. However, olive is not gaudy; the grey aspect in it makes it a quiet and inconspicuous choice.

Linoleum is making a come-back. The material was invented in 1860 and consists mainly of linseed oil, ground cork dust and jute fabric. It was originally intended for use as an elastic floor covering and it is still used in that way to this day. The furniture industry utilises linoleum as a tabletop surface, sideboard front and bureau inlay. It is a robust, green material that stands for healthy living.

Solid wood is about to strengthen its position further. The designs for tables, cupboards and sideboards are delicate and elegant, having moved away from the rustic look of the past. Oak remains the top seller, but walnut and cherry wood are maintaining their position. Wood combined with other natural materials such as glass and metal is also a popular choice for the visible parts of cabinets.

The visual quality of furniture in all price categories is generally improving. In future, furniture that looks cheap in whatever way will not sell well. With the smart home, the bathroom show and the lighting show - in addition to all the other furniture and fittings exhibited at imm cologne 2018 - we will experience an explosion of innovation and inspiration. By passionately opening oneself up to something, that thing is freed from the vortex of the ordinary and everyday. That is just as true for good food as it is for good furniture at imm cologne. Only those who dare to do so can discover the new.

• Good chances for synthetic fibers and functional textiles

Bangkok (GTAI) - Thailand's textile industry is in transition and is increasingly positioning itself in new markets with higher added value. Synthetic fibers became an important foothold on the basis of innovative raw materials, while functional textiles are grateful to customers in a dozen sectors. In addition, there is the traditional silk craft, which can be marketed by international design and attractive fashion shows - and this at top prices.

The Thai textile industry is changing. As a part of the long-term national development strategy “Thailand 4.0” , new technologies are designed to help innovative products breakthrough in key emerging markets, backed by concerted efforts in design, fashion and marketing. The industrial foundation ensures the availability of a complete value chain from fiber production, yarn spinning, fabric weaving and processing to the production of clothing.
The long-term strategy has been outlined by the Thailand Textile Institute (THTI) in its "Thailand Textile and Fashion Industries Development Strategy 2015-2030". Three phases are planned from the regional center for textile and fashion retail, to the development of creative products for international brands, and finally the breakthrough as the global market leader in fashion design, including Thai components. The concrete catalog of measures includes an industrial fashion zone, a pilot fiber plant, a development center for yarn, fabrics and fashion products as well as a regional fashion academy.

Broad spectrum for innovations
A diversified petrochemical industry with high-quality downstream products provides a rich foundation for a wide variety of synthetic fibers. The main products are polyester, nylon, rayon and acrylic polymers. The range of applications is quite broad, including apparel, medical technique, hygiene and automotive manufacturing. For polyester, Thailand ranks ninth in the world with an annual production of 621,000 tons, the larger producers include Indorama Polyester, Teijin Polyester or Thai Toray.

Increased research and development efforts with both artificial and natural textile fibers are paving the way for functional textiles. There are a dozen applications in this broad future market: Agrotex, Mobiltex, Medtex, Hometex, Oekotex, Packtex, Buildtex, Clothtex, Indutex, Geotex, Protex and Sportex. The leaders in this branch are companies such as Asahi Kasei, Perma, Saha Seiren, PJ Garment or TP Corporation. Thailand also wants to play an active role in shaping the future market of "smart fabrics" - such as fabrics with UV protection or antibacterial and fire-resistant properties.

Renaissance of the silk
On elegant paths also the traditional over generations grown art of silk crafts is moving. Thanks to the rich raw material base, the kingdom is considered to be the world's fourth largest silk producer. In the preference of visitors from abroad, silk products are at the eighth place in the souvenir statistics 2015 with USD 149 mio.
The origins of silk were characterized by the craftsmanship weaving with regional origin characteristics such as at the Lumphun Broocade Thai Silk, the Phu Thai Praewa Silk or the Surin Hole Silk. The change to innovative products took place with the growing demands of customers. New technologies produced goods of higher value, which were also became promoted with new stronger marketing ideas.

Jim Thompson and Passaya are considered two major pioneers of world-class luxury silk brands. Jim Thompson generates USD 72 mio thanks to modern design and premium products. Passaya won international awards for outstanding innovations in design as well as in the production process. Public support has been provided by promotional events such as "Proud Pastra", which recently completed USD 1.5 mio  in trade surplus. The Ministry of Commerce also intends to establish a silk center in the northeastern Korat under the state-sponsored so-called OTOP scheme (One Tambon One Product).

The entire industry has currently  4,700 textile and garment manufacturers with over 500,000 workers, including 730 textile companies for technical textiles. The export value amounted to USD 6.45 billion in 2016, which represented about 3 percent of total exports. The national retail sector recorded steady growth rates averaging 3.5 percent per year over the period 2011-2016.

In addition to production, Thailand also tries to profile itself as a fashion hub for regional and international fashion shows. The most important events are the "Bangkok International Couture Fashion Week", "Elle Bangkok Fashion Week" and the "Bangkok International Fashion Fair". The first national designer brands have already made their debuts on the catwalk, such as Sretsis, Naraya, Dry Clean Only or Disaya. Sretsis, founded by three sisters, became successfully supported by some big names such as Beyoncé, Paris Hilton, January Jones and Zooey Deschanel.

The recently concluded trade fair once again demonstrates: The PERFORMANCE DAYS concept works! At the 19th edition of the trade fair for functional fabrics and sport accessories, new top ratings were achieved in all areas.
Innovation is the specialty at PERFORMANCE DAYS. The functional fabric trade fair has a reputation for being the first to show the newest trends way ahead of the other trade fairs and industry gatherings. The fair offers several unique tools such as the Focus Topic, the PERFORMANCE FORUM with the PERFORMANCE TABLES and the PERFORMANCE WALL, the PERFORMANCE AWARDS, the comprehensive presentation and workshop program as well as the guided tours. What makes this fair so special? Not only the free admission to the fair, but all of the top quality programs are also free of charge! So much commitment to service and trend scouting pays off: The recent trade fair held on November 8-9th, 2017 at the MTC in Munich once again broke all previous records!

Visitor and Exhibitor plus
The halls of the MTC were filled to maximum capacity and recorded significantly more visitors than the previous fair last April and even more than the fair in November 2016. The number of trade visitors rose from 1868 in November 2016, to 2001 breaking the 2000 mark for the first time. This growth corresponds to a 7.1 percent increase. In comparison to the previous year, the number of exhibitors was also greater in autumn 2017, registering a 9.9 percent increase. A total of 177 exhibitors from 23 countries occupied all of the halls to capacity, confirming the decision to relocate to the halls of Messe München, which is scheduled for November 2018. Even now, shortly after opening the exhibitor registration period, demand is already higher than the number of available spaces.

The move to Riem
When the doors of PERFORMANCE DAYS open next year on November 28-29th, 2018, the trade fair will be celebrating not only its 10-year anniversary, but also the first edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS at the new location. In the future, one of the large halls on the exhibition grounds in Munich-Riem will be provided twice a year for functional fabrics. For the debut, it will be located in Hall C1, with easy access via the north-west entrance from the west parking garage.

All highlights also provided online
As usual, when the most recent exhibit comes to a successful close, a special service is made available to all those who did not have enough time: All the highlights and important information like the presentations (also as a podcast!), as well as all the fabrics at the Forum will be available directly at www.performancedays.com. Even more interesting for you: Samples of all featured PERFORMANCE FORUM fabrics can be ordered online, which means direct sourcing of materials is now possible from the comfort of your office.
A special highlight of the past exhibition was the Focus Topic "Thermal Technologies – From Fibre to Smart Textiles." The topic covered the entire spectrum of heat retention and generation in sports clothing, as well as the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD. The award winner was Pontetorto for the development of the first fleece to be produced with a brushed inside and with particles and fibers that are biodegradable even in sea-water. This innovation was a joint development between Vaude and Lenzing. The workshop presented by Ana Kristiansson about the possibilities of founding a sportswear brand was also very well received.
Besides the familiar exhibitors like Invista, Cocona/37.5, Lenzing, Microban, 3M, bluesign, Burlington, Dyneema, Nilit, Outlast, Pertex, Polartec, Pontetorto, PrimaLoft, Schoeller, Singtex, Sympatex, Südwollle, Toray, and YKK; the Messe welcomed new exhibitors like Freudenberg Performance Materials, Clo Insulation, Flying Textile, Inuheat Group, ISKO ARQUAS, Manifattura Effe Pi, The Woolmark Company, and Tough Knitting Enterprise.

About PERFORMANCE DAYS
PERFORMANCE DAYS — The “functional fabric fair” launched in 2008, is the first and only event created especially for functional fabrics for sports and work clothing. The aim of the semiannual trade fair is to give leading and innovative textile manufacturers, suppliers and service providers the opportunity to present their functional fabrics, membranes plus treatments, laminates, paddings, fin-ishes, and accessories such as yarns, tapes, prints, buttons and zippers.
The industry experts who come to this fair – the sports fashion designers, product managers, and decision-makers (see online: Visitor List) represent almost every European active clothing and func-tional wear manufacturer – can find a complete selection of high quality materials available at just the right time in April/May and November. The dates are intentionally scheduled early thanks to our expertise in functional fabrics and are optimal for summer and winter sport collections. (All trade fair catalogs from past events are available online at Catalogs as well as a listing of current exhibitors at Exhibitor List).
 
The relaxed and focused workshop-like atmosphere at PERFORMANCE DAYS differentiates it from the other fairs which are often unmanageable and more stressful. That is one of the reasons why the Munich trade fair at the heart of the European sportswear industry has become one of the top addresses for new fabrics, innovations, and is the preferred meeting place to conduct business.
In the unique PERFORMANCE FORUM of PERFORMANCE DAYS, the visitor receives an inspiring and well-grounded overview of the new materials, trends, and innovations of the exhibitors. The PERFORMANCE AWARD and the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD are also presented here. Qualified guest speakers present special topics and their collaborative ventures in guided tours, workshops and presentations to complete the range of information provided at PERFORMANCE DAYS within the Program (see after the fair online in the Presentation Library).
No entry fee and free admission to all events for industry visitors.

• Morocco, Ethiopia and South Africa: Network comprises the most important textile regions in Africa
• Emerging continent: positive forecasts in the textile sector

First Ethiopia, then South Africa and shortly Morocco: Messe Frankfurt is expanding its portfolio of textile trade fairs on the African continent. With its forthcoming cooperation with the two trade fairs Maroc in Mode and Maroc Sourcing, the global market leader for textile trade fairs is expanding its presence in North West Africa. ‘In future, our network will extend across important textile regions in Africa and encompass the leading trade fairs on the emerging continent’, explains Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt. ‘With our commitment to Ethiopia, South Africa and, in future, Morocco, we have created excellent conditions to support the positive developments in Africa's textile industry’. Demographic change, increasing urbanisation and shifts in economic forces - these global developments are promoting the growth of the African economy and having a significant impact on the textile industry.

According to the UN Economic Report on Africa 2017, Africa has the fastest growing population. The current population of around 1.2 billion people will more than double by 2050. The number of working people on the African continent is also increasing rapidly. The largest working population (1.1 billion) in the world is predicted to be in Africa by 2034. These demographic changes are causing personal and business consumption to increase sharply, and this will primarily benefit regional economic markets. 

Morocco: Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing

Morocco in particular offers great potential for the clothing trade: Morocco's proximity to important fashion markets such as the EU and the USA, various free trade agreements and a recent economic growth rate of four per cent (between 2010 and 2015, Nachrichten für den Außenhandel, NfA, 19 January 2017) create a secure business climate. The Maroc in Fashion and Maroc Sourcing trade fairs, which have been in existence since 2014, currently showcase around 120 exhibitors from Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt, Turkey, China and a number of Western European countries. The extensive product portfolio inspires with its strong expertise in fashion. The trade fairs are regarded as a hotspot for fast fashion and not only present fashion, denim, lingerie and knitwear, but also sports and casualwear, workwear and accessories. Messe Frankfurt will agree on a cooperation with AMITH (Association Marocaine des Industries du Textile et de l’Habillement), the organiser of the event, for the next edition. The trade fair will take place on 26-27 October 2017 at the Exhibition Park Hassan Circuit in Marrakesh. 

South Africa: Source Africa & ATF Expo

South Africa is the continent's strongest economic power and one of the largest consumer markets. The country has the most powerful retail sector and is the best networked of all African countries. This international networking and its regional free trade agreements make South Africa an important hub for trade with other African countries as well as neighbouring Pacific countries such as the Arabian Peninsula and India.

With the recently approved takeover of the Source Africa and ATF fairs, Messe Frankfurt is driving the exchange between international and regional buyers, manufacturers and suppliers in this region. Source Africa was founded in 2014 as a trade fair for African producers of fabrics, accessories, clothing, shoes and leather items. It appeals not only to African trade buyers but also to international manufacturers of clothing and fashion. The fifth edition of the fair will take place on 20-21 June 2018 at the International Convention Center (CTICC) in Cape Town. ATF Expo will open its doors at the same venue from  21 to 23 November 2017. Ever since 1998, this trade fair has offered an internationally-oriented product range of fabrics, clothing, shoes, leather goods and accessories as well as services for a predominantly local and regional purchasing community.

Ethiopia: successful start for Texworld, Apparel Sourcing and Texprocess

In eastern Africa, Ethiopia has developed into an attractive contract manufacturing country for clothing and leather goods thanks to the government's strategy of focusing on light industry. Ethiopia also benefits from free trade agreements such as AGOA that are aimed at promoting the African economy. With the Africa Sourcing and Fashion Week (ASFW), Messe Frankfurt has had a strong partner at its side ever since the latest edition in October 2017. Offshoots of the three trade fair brands Texworld, Apparel Sourcing and Texprocess were integrated into the Africa Sourcing & Fashion Week for the first time. It is a sourcing platform for mainly European and US fashion companies. The seventh edition brought together around 200 international exhibitors from 25 countries in Addis Ababa's Millennium Hall. Clothing fabrics, contract manufacturing, fashion and accessories were exhibited as well as machinery for contract manufacturing, CAD/CAM systems, printers, printing inks and accessories. In addition, the trade fair also impressed visitors with a fashion show, a series of lectures, a trend section and a matchmaking platform.

Messe Frankfurt: A strong presence in global textile markets

With a portfolio of over 50 international textile trade fairs, Messe Frankfurt is the global market leader in trade fairs for the textile industry. In 2016, around 19,500 exhibitors and approx. 477,000 visitors came to the events in Europe, North America and Asia. With the name Texpertise Network, the textile event offer of Messe Frankfurt covers the entire value creation chain – from apparel fabrics and fashion to home and contract textiles, technical textiles and the processing and care of textiles. The trade fairs include the successful brands Texworld, Apparel Sourcing, Ethical Fashion Show, Greenshowroom, Intertextile, Yarn Expo, Leatherworld, Emitex, Avantex, Avanprint, Heimtextil, Intertextile Home Textiles, Interior Lifestyle, Home Textiles Sourcing, Techtextil, Texprocess, Simatex, Confemaq and Texcare.

Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing: www.marocsourcing.ma
Source Africa & AFT: www.sourceafrica.co.za / www.atfexpo.co.za
Africa Sourcing & Fashion Week: www.asfw-online.com

• Fair as an opportunity for cooperation
• Investment climate is improving

Bonn (GTAI) - With a population of almost 200 million, a high proportion of young people and a growing middle class, Pakistan offers good prospects. In particular, the China Pakistan Economic Corridor has the potential to trigger a new growth spurt and attract foreign investment. The 10th Expo Pakistan, which takes place in Karachi from November 9th -12th 2017, provides an opportunity to initiate business with Pakistani partners.

Largest trade fair

EXPO Pakistan is the largest trade fair in the country and offers the most comprehensive presentation of the country's export economy and service sector. In addition to local companies, numerous exhibitors from the neighboring countries also present their products to international visitors. Among others goods from sectors leather, textiles and clothing, sporting goods, automotive and automotive parts, pharmaceutical products, machinery and services in the field of information technology, logistics and health will be exhibited.

The four-day EXPO Pakistan, which has been held every two years since 1997, is directed exclusively to foreign buyers during the first three days. B2B meetings between suppliers and buyers will be arranged by the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP). According to the Pakistani Trade Promotion Agency at the last trade fair in 2015 business contracts worth of approximately USD 1.2 billion were generated. In addition more than 70 declarations of intent were signed. The framework program for the trade fair participants included, among other things, company visits and fashion shows. Within the framework of EXPO 2015, 571 Pakistani manufacturers and exporters exhibited their products and services. According to the organizers a total of 750 foreign buyers and importers from 77 countries visited the fair.

Prospects for the economic development remain positive.

In the recent years the Republic has recorded an annual economic growth of around 4 percent. According to the forecasts of the International Monetary Fund, the gross domestic product (real) will reach 5 percent in 2017 and will increase an average growth of 5.5 per cent by 2020. Growth drivers are above all the increasing privat consumption as well as high investments in the transport infrastructure and the energy sector. As uncertainty factors remain the domestic policy conditions before the parliamentary elections in the second half of 2018 as well as the macroeconomic stability. The analysts of the Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU) expect an average current account deficit of 4.4 percent of the GDP from 2017 to 2021.

The course of the Karachi Stock Exchange (KSE 100) has steadily improved to more than three times since 2012. The index provider Morgan Stanley Capital International (MSCI) has once again raised Pakistan from a "frontier market" to an "emerging market" in May 2017. The financial crisis in 2008 led to a temporary closure of the stock exchange due to a liquidity bottlenecks and thus to the exclusion from the MSCI EM Index. An improved market classification was followed by a strong course correction. The in July published trade deficit of USD 27.5 billion, as well as the rising government debt contributed to a 20% drop in the courses by mid-September.

A major contributor to Pakistan's current high debt is not least the high investment in the mega project China Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC). The corridor is a collection of various infrastructure projects with a current value of around USD 62 billion, which has been realized throughout the country since 2013. They are part of the Chinese Megaproject "Belt and Road" with investments in the sectors energy, transport and special economic zones. The Republic finances many projects primarily through borrowing. The impact on the country is assessed. The through the corridor improved location attractiveness of the country is expected to promote the domestic economy, reduce the trade deficit and relieve the state budget.

Economic structure and trade

The Pakistani economy is the second largest in South Asia after the neighbor India. The gross domestic product rose from around USD 35 billion in the early 1980s to just under USD 283 billion. Above all the transformation from an agricultural to a service state has promoted this positive development. The service sector accounts for about 59 percent of the GDP. Central segments are trading, transport, storage and communication. The industrial sector however with a share of 20 percent is still upgradeable. The clothing, leather and textile sector has the most important share of the industry and represents the largest export sector with 67 per cent.

Germany was the fourth largest customer of Pakistani goods with USD 1.7 billion in 2016. Textiles and clothing as well as leather and leather goods had a share of about 87 percent. In the same year, German companies however exported goods worth USD 1.2 billion. Machines 33 percent, chemical products 18 percent and electrical equipment 7 percent formed the main export goods.

Improvement of the energy supply

The establishment and management of a factory for foreign companies in Pakistan are still proving difficult. According to the Doing Business Report 2017 the World Bank Pakistan ranks 144th out of 190 countries. Corruption, protection of intellectual property rights, protracted legal enforcement and poor power supply are among the greatest obstacles. A positive change in the power supply situation or the overall infrastructure should become achieved by the CPEC.

The Trade Department of the Pakistani Embassy is available for further questions and information during the 10th EXPO Pakistan.

Contact:

Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
Commercial department
Schaperstrasse 29
10719 Berlin, Germany
T +49 (30) 212 442 02
cc@pakemb.de, tdo@pakemb.de

• Sales are increasing since four years
• Developing of up new markets abroad

Prague (GTAI) - Czech textile and clothing manufacturers are among the winners of the good economic situation. The trend towards domestic products and the rising purchasing power are inspiring the companies. At the same time they benefit from a growing demand from abroad. According to the association ATOK the turnover of the sector rose to Kc 53,5 billion (just under EUR 2 billion) in 2016. It was the fourth year of growth in a row.

An important growth driver of the Czech textile industry is the automotive sector. The largest sales are achieved with technical textiles, and these are mostly used in the over 1.3 million passenger cars, which are rolling in the Czech Republic off the assembly lines every year. The German automotive supplier Borgers is therefore the second largest textile manufacturer in the country. The company produces textile trims for trunks, passenger compartments or underfloor at four locations in the Plzen region. About 200,000 parts leave the factory every day for VW, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Bentley and Rolls Royce. The largest textile company in 2016 was the company Juta with productions of geotextiles, insulation materials and packaging material.

The positive dynamism of textile manufacturers is continuing in 2017. According to statistics from January to May the production index rose by 3% and the value of new orders even rose by 5%. On the other hand the garment manufacturers have to announce sales reductions following the strong year before. Future growth could be curbed by rising wages, the appreciation of the national currency and a lack of staff.

Sources: Association of the Textile, Garment and Leather Industry (ATOK), Calculations by Germany Trade & Invest

Even more dynamically than the sector's profits the foreign trade has developed in 2016. Since the Czech Republic is being used as a transit and logistics location by international trading companies, the volume of exports is significantly higher than the total turnover of the domestic manufacturers. According to the ATOK association, in 2016 textiles were exported for Kc 63.8 billion (EUR 2.36 billion) and clothing for Kc 47.2 billion (EUR 1.74 billion). This was an increase of 5% for textiles and 31% for clothing. Import of textiles rose by 6% to Ks 59.3 billion (EUR 2.19 billion), import of garment rose by 20% to Kc 67.9 billion (EUR 2.51 billion).

This has somewhat reduced the trade deficit in clothing. In the major fashion chains however foreign goods still dominate. Czech vendors have little chance of coming to the shelves and taking part in the fast fashion cycles and fast fashion changes. The association ATOK estimates that they have a market share of a maximum of 20% in clothing retailing. As a result, domestic manufacturers are increasingly focusing on direct selling, either via internet shops or through their own sales outlets. They also strengthen the building of their own brands, after having carried out commission work for international fashion groups for many years. Customized products are in the trend also. Some companies that have hitherto mainly served the home market are now looking increasingly at foreign markets. The swimwear and underwear producer Timo from Litomerice, for example, wants to supply to Germany also in the future, reported by the economic newspaper Hospodarske noviny.

Textile companies invest more and more abroad
The East Bohemian specialist for bathroom textiles, Grund, already has a sales company in Lower Saxony. The carpet manufacturer is now planning to build a factory in the south of the USA and intends to invest more than USD 1 million. Silon from South Bohemia, which is one of the largest manufacturers of polyester fibers in Europe, is building a manufacturing plant for plastic compounding in the USA in order to reduce the delivery time for raw materials and to be closer to the customer. There are interesting developments in the research area. The institute VUTS from Liberec, has developed, together with Taiwanese scientists, a pneumatic loom that can produce 3D fabrics made of high-strength polyester silk. The material can be used for boat building or flood protection. The machine should be presented for the first time at a trade fair in 2019. Until then the textile manufacturer Veba from Broumov wants to have developed a new 3D fabric. It is intended to reinforce matrices.

After the extra economy in 2015 due to the last-time levy of EU funds from the old funding period, investments in the textile industry had shrunk in 2016. According to the Ministry of Economic Affairs the manufacturers invested some Kc 2.78 billion (around EUR 100 million), a sixth less than in the previous year. On the other hand, investments in the garment sector were up by a quarter to over Kc 850 million (around EUR 31 million). The development was also reflected in the import figures for textile machines. At the beginning of the year 2017 imports rose again in some product groups, thus opening up sales opportunities for finishing manufacturers. German suppliers account for roughly half of the machinery supply for the textile industry.

In April 2017 the Moravian nonwoven fabric manufacturer Retex had issued a tender for a production plant for over EUR 7 million. In Zatec near Usti nad Labem Unifrax wants to build a production plant for silicate fabrics. Juta is currently investing around EUR 13 million in the production of grids and plans to get the plant expansion at Dvur Kralove into operation in autumn 2017. The Japanese Toray Textiles is expanding its factory for airbag fabrics and printing plates in Prostejov over the next four years. The North Moravian supplier of outdoor clothing, Tilak, is also expanding its production facilities in Sumperk.

Source: Czech Statistical Office

• Production stabilizes at lower level
• Import of textile machines increased

Jerusalem (GTAI) - The Israeli textile and clothing industry has largely stabilized after years of decline. This applies both to the added value of the sector and to exports. Thanks to new capacities, the textile sector was able in 2106 to record a significant increase in production. In the import of textile machinery Germany plays the leading role. On the other hand, the German import market share of imports of textile and clothing products is low..

For a long time, Israel's textile and clothing industry was a serious problem sector of the manufacturing industry. But now it seems to catch up itself again. This is confirmed by the production statistics. In a crisis phase between 2007 and 2013, the added value by the textile and clothing industry had declined by a total of 25.7%. While the shrinking of the clothing sector was 21.4%, the textile industry fell by 31.2%. The reasons for this development were the increasing competition from low-cost imports on the domestic market and declining exports. Since 2013, however, the figures have stabilized and are pointing upwards.

*) HS-section XI (spun textile fabrics and articles thereof)
Source: Monthly paper on foreign trade statistics, various editions, Central Statistical Office

Product range cleared up

The stabilization was achieved through a comprehensive clearing up process in the textile and clothing industry, in the course of which products and production processes, in which Israel was no longer internationally competitive, were discontinued or outsourced to cheaper locations. Thru rationalization processes the productivity was increased.  The added value of the textile and clothing industry in 2016 per employee reached 4.8% above the level of 2011. The cumulative increase in productivity in the textile sector was 3.5 and in the clothing sector 5.6%.
The adjustment of the product range led to a drop in exports and simultaneously to an increase in imports. The Israeli manufacturers are increasingly looking to raise their turnover in high-quality and less labor-intensive products, which also have opportunities on the world market.

According to the most recent available data, the export rate of the textile and clothing industry in 2014 was 50.1%. There was an extreme division in the clothing sector: while the manufacturers of clothing products other than underwear only accounted for 3.9% of their sales in the international business, almost the entire production of underwear was exported.
The main export position of the Israeli textile industry is covered by HS heading 56 (cotton, felt and nonwovens, special yarns, twine, cordage, ropes and cables). In 2016 these products accounted for 28.7% of the textile and clothing exports, followed by synthetic or artificial filaments with 14.3%, knitted products with 13.0% of the exports.

*) Conversion of official internal price data according to the yearly average exchange rate
Source: Central Office of Statistics

Following the successful stabilization, the Israeli industry is also daring to create new production capacities. In 2015 and 2016 two new factories were set up for the production of nonwovens and have started to operate. On the one hand, this became reflected in increased machinery investments by the textile sector, and secondly in the strong increase in the production of the textile industry in 2016 by 15.8%.

Germany leading supplier of textile machines

Parallel to the increase in production the import of textile machinery is increasing since 2014. In 2016, it reached USD 62.2 million, more than twice the low level of 2013. German textile machinery manufacturers were able to participate in this growth in a leading position..

Source: UN Comtade Database

In 2016 the German import market share of textile machinery reached a hight of 60.2%, so the Federal Republic was by far the most important delivery country, followed by Italy and France.

Source: UN Comtrade Database

The leading supplier in the import market for garments and textile products is P.R.China. In 2016 39.3% of the imports of the HS section XI (textile materials and articles thereof) accounted for China. Germany played with 1.6% (USD 39.1 mio) only a subordinate role. The main German delivery positions were clothing and clothing accessories (HS chapters 61 and 62) with 43.7%, followed by synthetic or artificial spun fibers (14.3%).

Contact addresses
Manufacturers Association of Israel Textile and Fashion Industries Association Ansprechpartnerin: Ms. Maya Herscovitz, Director of Association
Hamered St. 29, Tel Aviv 68125 Tel.: 00972 3/519 88 55, Fax- 519 87 05 E-Mail: maya@industry.org.il,, Internet:  http://www.industry.org.il.

• Chinese fashion companies are becoming more creative and work on their branding
• German fashion has a hard time with it

Beijing (GTAI) Chinese fashion has the reputation for being less creative and of poor quality. Well established brands are rare. But this is now changing. More and more local designers succeed in making a name for themselves on a national and an international level. This is why it will be harder for imported clothing to establish itself on the Chinese market in the future. Chinese designers meet the local taste with a mixture of Western and Chinese elements.

When it came to buying clothes, Chinese customers had for several decades only two choices - either settle for cheap domestic bulk goods or spend a lot of money on an imported product. First came the luxurious brands, especially from Italy and France, which China's new millionaires adorned themselves with, then more and more shops opened, targeting the ongrowing middle class and in which also German business clothing sold well.

But the local competition does not sleep. The Chinese textile and clothing industry faces a massive financial pressure; therefore many companies have to take a decision; either they become better or they have to go. Anyone who remains has to change his production and his products in such a way that they can meet the more and more demanding customers, especially within the domestic market.

This includes the positioning of own brands. The Dongrong Group from Inner Mongolia is currently following this path. It has become well known for manufacturing cashmere products for famous British and Italian fashion labels, and now sells its own design under its own label ("Dongli") in its own shops.

Owning a store – or even better several stores - is the dream of most young Chinese fashion designers, who are increasingly making a name for themselves on the Chinese market. This is also due to the retail structure in the People’s Republic of China, which is unusual for Germans. The typical German clothing retailers with several brands in the assortment do not exist. Instead, mono-brand stores dominate - either as single stores or in the large malls as sublet retail space.

Nevertheless, Chinese companies have a lot to catch up on branding and quality. Even the familiarity of important Chinese suppliers is usually limited to local buyers. For the majority of European customers, however, they are not even a concept. But according to industry insiders, this is also changing. The number of successful Chinese fashion designers and companies is growing even internationally.

Despite deficits in areas like creativity and branding, the scene is growing and finds an ongrowing customer base. Accordingly, things will become even more difficult for German fashion, which usually cannot compete with the glamour of the Italian or French competition. Although there are more Chinese people who are able to spend a lot for good fashion, but there is also a larger local offer, which is price oriented to foreign markets and meets the Chinese taste with a skillful mix of Western and Chinese traits.    

Chinese Importes of Apparel*)
(in Mio. US$, change in comparison to the previous month in %)

*) HSPos. 61+62
Source: China Customs; calculation by Germany Trade & Invest

China's fashion designers are becoming more successful internationally

Many of the new Chinese fashion designers have studied abroad, worked and / or cooperated with foreign designers, and now combine typical Chinese with modern Western clothing and cuts. With their designs, they do not only create interest in the relevant fashion weeks abroad, but are also increasingly bought in China. Pioneers are fashion designers like Ma Ke ("Wuyong", "Mixmind"), who designed the clothes for China's elegant First Lady Peng Li-yun, or Paris-based Guo Pei, who was named by the Time Magazine 2016 as one of the 100 most influential people in the world. In the meantime, a large number of fashion designers and designers have made themselves a more or less wellknown name.

Among the new labels are for example the Eve Group from Beijing or ANNDERSTAND (founded by Yu Ge, who gained experience already at Louis Vuitton and Gucci) from Shanghai. With tailor-made models from Yu Ge, the underwear brand AtoG Lingerie (founder: Zhou Yingying) even made it to the fashion weeks in London, New York, Milan and Paris. They are particularly popular among the middle and upper classes. These population groups are often looking for a modern, national identity and would like to dress up individually and elegantly - apart from the unattainable big brands from France or Italy, which nevertheless are already in the Chinese metropolises almost "at every corner”.

Return to old traditions 

For example, exquisite new editions of Chinese sheath dresses (Qipao) aree in demand - such as by HanartQipao from Shanghai. Founder Zhou Zhuguang is convinced: "Qipao is the future and perhaps also the beginning of a Chinese haute-couture." The costs of a Hanart dress range from 3,800 to 60,000 yuan (RMB, circa 570 to 9,030 US $, 1 US $ = circa 6,642 RMB, yearly average 2016). Buyers have often embraced a refined Chinese lifestyle - including tea drinking, reciting poems, and collecting Chinese antiques.

Recalling some decor patterns of national minorities, such as the elaborate embroidery art of the Dong or Miao nationality from southern China, is also popular. In particular, Vimemo (founded in 2009 by Yu Ying) from Guizhou has earned a reputation. Vimemo employs about 3,000 female embroiderers and batik dyeing worker in homework and ensures that techniques, which only a few grandmothers are still proficient in, do not die out. In this sense, a research and development center with a school is to be built in 2017. The very high-priced pieces of silk or cotton are sold in own shops (at the Beijing International Airport, for example) or via the Internet.

The Chinese designer, Su Renli, uses the old techniques of handicrafts (for example, the dyeing of fabrics in yamswurze extract) combined with sustainably produced materials and modern cuts. Other promising brands with an individual style are, for example, Zuczug or Icecle based in Shanghai, some of them partly coming into the market with serious eco-friendly products.

Despite the growing health awareness and promising approaches - such as the recently founded "Uncover" project - sustainable fashion in China has so far only been a niche. Against this background, the company Jiaxing Jiecco ("LangerChen") in Zhejiang, founded by Miranda Chen and Philipp Langer, is producing their fabrics that are mainly certified according to the strict Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) primarily for foreign customers. Genuine eco-fashion or fair produced clothing has so far been a concept for the fewest Chinese. "After discussing food safety, the discussion about healthy clothing will follow," Miranda Chen is convinced. But time has not yet come.