From the Sector

• Sales of CHF 1 510.9 million,
• Order intake of CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022; order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million as of December 31, 2022
• EBIT margin of 2.1%
• Implementation of action plan to increase profitability ongoing
• Dividend of CHF 1.50 per share proposed

With record sales of CHF 1 510.9 million, Rieter achieved an increase of 56% compared with the previous year (2021: CHF 969.2 million). In the second half of 2022, especially in the fourth quarter, the measures introduced to address material bottlenecks had a positive impact. Consequently, sales increased to CHF 890.3 million compared with the first six months (first half-year 2022: CHF 620.6 million).

Order intake was CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022 (2021: CHF 2 225.7 million) and thus remained at a high level thanks to the company’s technological lead and broad international presence. The market situation, especially in the second half of 2022, was characterized by investment restraint and below-average capacity utilization at spinning mills due to geopolitical uncertainties, rising financing costs, and consumer reticence in important markets.
The company had an order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million at the end of 2022, which thus extends into 2023 and 2024.

The profit at the EBIT level in the 2022 financial year was CHF 32.2 million (2021: CHF 47.6 million). The result was strongly influenced by substantial cost increases, which could only be offset in part through price increases or other remedial measures. In addition, to compensate for material shortages, expenses were incurred in connection with the development of alternative solutions, and in relation to the acquired businesses.

Completion of the Acquisition
Rieter consolidated the acquired automatic winding machine business with effect from April 1, 2022. This acquisition completes Rieter’s system offering in the largest market segment of ring and compact spinning, thus significantly strengthening the company’s market position.

Action Plan to Increase Profitability
Implementation of the action plan to increase profitability is ongoing. With regard to the margins for the order backlog, which remains high, the already implemented price increases in combination with a positive trend in costs, particularly in logistics, are having a favorable impact. In addition, progress was made in eliminating material bottlenecks and reducing expenses for the three acquired businesses.

Dividend
The Board of Directors proposes to the shareholders the distribution of a dividend of CHF 1.50 per share for 2022. This corresponds to a payout ratio of 56%.

Outlook
For the coming months, Rieter expects below-average demand for new equipment at first, with a revival expected in the second half of 2023 after ITMA, the leading trade fair in Milan (Italy). Rieter also believes that demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts will recover during 2023.
For the 2023 financial year, due to the high order backlog, Rieter anticipates sales in the order of magnitude of the previous year.
The realization of sales from the order backlog continues to be associated with risks in connection with the ongoing geopolitical uncertainties, rising financing costs, continuing bottlenecks in the supply chains, and possible, currently unforeseeable consequences of the earthquake in Türkiye in February 2023. Despite the price increases already implemented, further global cost increases continue to pose a risk to the growth of profitability. Rieter will specify the outlook in the 2023 semi-annual report.

The Supervisory Board of adidas AG has extended the appointment of Harm Ohlmeyer as Chief Financial Officer of the company by another three years until the beginning of 2028. Harm Ohlmeyer has been member of the Executive Board of adidas AG since March 2017 and the company’s CFO since May 2017.

At the same time, the Supervisory Board appointed Arthur Hoeld as Executive Board member, responsible for Global Sales, as of April 1, 2023. Hoeld has been with adidas for 25 years, most recently as Managing Director of the company’s EMEA region since 2018. He will succeed Roland Auschel, who has decided to step down from his role, pass on the baton and leave the company after 33 years with adidas, including ten years as an Executive Board member.    

Furthermore, Brian Grevy, Executive Board member of adidas AG, responsible for Global Brands, has informed adidas AG’s Supervisory Board that he will step down from the Executive Board and leave the company. In mutual agreement with Brian Grevy, the Supervisory Board approved the termination of his appointment as an Executive Board member as of March 31, 2023. adidas CEO Bjørn Gulden will assume responsibility for Global Brands. In this role, Gulden will lead adidas product and marketing activities, which will enable the required fast decision-making across all business units and departments.

Thomas Rabe thanked Brian Grevy for his many important contributions during his years of service with the company. Grevy initially joined adidas in 1998 and held leadership positions of increasing responsibility for adidas on a local, regional and global level before leaving the company in 2016. At the beginning of 2020, Brian Grevy returned to adidas as the company’s Executive Board member for Global Brands.

As of April 1, 2023, the company’s new Executive Board will consist of Bjørn Gulden (Chief Executive Officer and Global Brands), Arthur Hoeld (Global Sales), Harm Ohlmeyer (Chief Financial Officer), Amanda Rajkumar (Global Human Resources, People and Culture) and Martin Shankland (Global Operations).

Kelheim Fibres, a leading manufacturer of viscose speciality fibres, has joined Recycling Atelier Augsburg. Recycling Atelier Augsburg is a unique centre for research and development in the field of textile recycling. It is located at the Institut für Textiltechnik Augsburg an affiliated institute of Augsburg University of Applied Sciences. The two institutions founded the Recycling Atelier in June 2022 together with twelve partners from the German textile industry.

In the Recycling Atelier, the focus is on the triad of technical and ecological sense as well as economic benefit. In this way, the partners of the Recycling Atelier are standing up against fast fashion, outsourced corporate responsibility and a general decline in raw material quality, which often fuels downcycling - the low-quality reuse - of materials.

As a model factory, the Recycling Atelier Augsburg combines the most important processes of textile recycling and offers holistic and comprehensive research along the value chain," explains Georg Stegschuster, head of the Recycling Atelier Augsburg. The scientists research on all process steps of textile recycling: from material analysis to sorting, preparation and textile processing to sustainable product design. Comprehensive data collection and the use of artificial intelligence as well as innovative materials play a central role.

Kelheim Fibres is a producer of high-quality viscose fibres, which consist of cellulose, the main component of the renewable raw material wood, and are used worldwide for products in areas such as hygiene, textiles, and technical applications.

"In New Business Development as well as Fibre and Application Development, we follow the Open Innovation concept - the cooperation with the Recycling Atelier offers us an ideal platform for this. Here we work with partners to advance sustainability and performance," explains Maik Thiel, project manager at Kelheim Fibres.

Recycled cotton fibres are often very short or of uneven length, which makes further processing of 100 % recycled material a challenge. Adding speciality fibres from Kelheim Fibres should enable the production of high-quality new products, such as nonwovens. In the future, the fibres provided by Kelheim Fibres will also be made from recycled pulp.

• At end 2022, Carbios has 336 titles worldwide divided into 53 patent families for its innovation in enzymatic recycling of PET plastics and fibers, and its PLA biodegradation technology
• Carbios’ team of Intellectual Property experts is dedicated to protecting its innovations

 
Carbios has doubled its number of issued patents since the last review published at the end of 2020. Carbios (and its subsidiary Carbiolice) currently holds 336 titles worldwide divided into 53 patent families.  In 2022, several titles protecting the proprietary PET-degrading enzymes were granted in countries of interest such as the United States and also in Asian countries including Indonesia, South Korea, China, Japan and India.  Carbios has also obtained grants within its patent families protecting the biodegradable plastics production process, notably the masterbatch containing the enzyme or its production process.
 
Carbios is expanding its intellectual property portfolio in regions and countries where there is strong demand for its disruptive technologies, notably :

• in Europe: 40 European titles, which could be granted in the 39 member states of the European Patent Organization
• in North America: 41 titles in the United States and 23 in Canada
• in Asia: 152 titles, including 37 in China, 27 in Japan and 24 in India

Carbios also has 14 patent applications that may be extended to other countries or regions of the world in the coming years.

“Over the past two years, we have mainly focused on strengthening the protection of our PET biorecycling process and its proprietary enzymes,” commented Lise LUCCHESI, Director of Intellectual Property at Carbios. “For the coming years, we will continue to consolidate the protection of this process, and that of our PLA biodegradation process, by filing new patent applications. We will also actively follow up on our filed patent applications in order to obtain granted patents.”
 
“Since the beginning of Carbios, the R&D and Intellectual Property departments have worked hand in hand to ensure maximum protection of our enzymes and processes,” commented Alain Marty, Chief Scientific Officer at Carbios.  “These continued efforts to obtain extensive international protection are crucial to safeguard our innovations and ensure the industrial deployment of our technologies.”

• Acquisition of QAT Services Limited laboratory in Hong Kong

On 01.03.2023 Hohenstein takes over the DAkkS accredited QAT Services Limited laboratory.  With this acquisition, the internationally recognized testing service provider is integrating the hardgoods knowledge of QATS employees into the Hohenstein portfolio.  As a result, Hohenstein will provide full-service capabilities for Greater China and beyond.

"The expansion is a strategically important step for Hohenstein,” emphasizes Prof. Mecheels, owner and CEO of Hohenstein.  "We are expanding our testing spectrum beyond the textile industry, in which we have been an established service provider for decades – and thus ensure both safe products and secure jobs."  From now on, Hohenstein will also be testing food contact material, furniture, toys and much more.  Hohenstein China Managing Director Christopher Au is also convinced: "With this step, Hohenstein is setting an important focus and strengthening its position for international customers."

• Oerlikon takes leadership position in luxury metalware

Oerlikon has successfully closed the acquisition of Riri, following the signing of the agreement announced on December 16, 2022.

Riri is a provider of coated metal accessories for the luxury fashion industry. This deal is the strategic next step to complement Oerlikon’s acquisition of Coeurdor in 2021. It expands Oerlikon’s foothold in the luxury market and together creates a leading platform in luxury metalware. As the demand for PVD coatings grows, Oerlikon’s PVD technologies that provide environmentally friendly solutions will accelerate the shift of the luxury goods industry to greener PVD technology.

Renato Usoni, CEO of Riri, will lead the newly formed luxury business unit of Oerlikon as President Oerlikon Luxury. Riri will operate as a separate business within the Surface Solutions division. Its zippers and buttons will continue to use the Riri and Cobrax brands on individual products. Oerlikon will consolidate Riri as of March 1, 2023.

Archroma announced the closing of the acquisition of the Textile Effects business from Huntsman Corporation (“Huntsman Textile Effects”).

When the Huntsman Textile Effects acquisition was first announced in August 2022, Archroma Group Chief Executive Officer (CEO) Heike van de Kerkhof called the transaction a “merger of equals”. Indeed, the global business of Huntsman Textile Effects comprises approximately 2,300 employees in 33 countries and 10 production sites globally which, when combined with Archroma, means the company will have more than 5,000 employees in total, in 42 countries and 35 production sites.

In addition to the closing of the Textile Effects acquisition, Archroma announced that it has updated its overall business into two operating divisions for growth, each focused on a separate end market.

The Textile Effects business acquired from Huntsman will be integrated with the Brand & Performance Textile Specialties business of Archroma into one new division named Archroma Textile Effects. The new division will be led by Rohit Aggarwal, former President of Huntsman Textile Effects, who is appointed as Divisional President & CEO of the Archroma Textile Effects division, as well as President Asia.

The Packaging & Paper Specialties and Coatings, Adhesives & Sealants businesses of Archroma have been recently combined into one new division named Archroma Paper, Packaging & Coatings, under the leadership of Sameer Singla, Divisional President & CEO of the Archroma Paper, Packaging & Coatings division, as well as President Americas and Europe, Middle East & Africa.

This new structure will ensure that both divisions obtain the resources and focus needed to continue providing Archroma’s customers and business partners with the superior experience and solutions they have come to expect.

In particular, Archroma is committed to supporting global megatrends and societal shifts such as circular fashion, plastic-to-paper replacement, and water-based paints and coatings, with the innovations and solutions needed to do so.

On 22 February 2023, Renewcell's CEO Patrik Lundström sold 364,705 shares in Renewcell at a price of 85 SEK per share via his wholly owned company PEEL AB. The sale was made to enable PEEL AB to repay loans taken out mainly to purchase shares in Renewcell.

In compliance with applicable rules, the transaction has been reported to the Swedish Financial Supervisory Authority’s PDMR Transactions Register. Following the transaction, Patrik Lundström holds, privately and through a company, 449,504 shares and 730,055 options in Renewcell.

The Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference, taking place in Indore, India over three days, from February 27-March 1^st is set to bring together a diverse group of key players from every part of the textile supply chain. Farmers, farm groups, industry representatives, non-profits, academics, suppliers, brands, certifiers, government representatives and policymakers will join nearly 200 guests at the multi-day event. The aim is to foster collaboration, explore innovative ideas, listen to those on the ground and focus discussions to develop a shared vision to boost the organic textile supply chain worldwide.

Co-hosted by  OCA, GOTS, and IFOAM - Organics International, the conference will address a range of subjects including social conditions, transparency through innovation, scaling up organic through investment, as well as sessions tackling certification, decent work and environmental impacts. The event also gives voice to farmers, who join as panellists, in a dedicated Q&A session with seven organic cotton farmers from the region. On the third day, organised by OCA, the organic farmers will welcome attendees to their communities during field trips west to Petlawad to witness organic practices at ground level.

“By addressing these important issues and fostering a dialogue between participants, the conference aims to develop innovative solutions that can drive progress and growth in the sector", says Bart Vollaard, Executive Director of OCA. "We are thrilled to be joining forces with GOTS and IFOAM to create positive change in the organic textile sector."

“Together with IFOAM - Organics International and OCA, GOTS wants to increase visibility of organic and at the same time enhance integrity of organic fibres and textiles. This conference shall serve to strengthen the sector by addressing obstacles and work on effective solutions, in consultation with all relevant and committed stakeholders”, notes Claudia Kersten, Managing Director of GOTS.

Sarah Compson of the IFOAM - Organics International World Board adds “Organic agriculture directly addresses some of the most pressing challenges of our time. IFOAM - Organics International is delighted to collaborate with OCA and GOTS to bring together people from across the whole textile sector and address the barriers and opportunities for scaling organic cotton production worldwide.”

With a strong line-up of notable speakers and guests in a supportive and engaging atmosphere, and a unique approach that connects participants from every step of the supply chain, the Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference is set to be a valuable and transformative event for key stakeholders involved in the organic textile industry.

The EU's plans to ban PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) chemicals will have an immense impact on companies globally. Perhaps even more than expected, as many manufacturers are unaware that they may have PFAS chemicals in their product line. A new online tool, launched today by NGO ChemSec, will help to solve this problem.

Just a couple of weeks after the big PFAS restriction proposal in the EU was published, ChemSec launches the PFAS Guide, which helps companies investigate the use of persistent chemicals within their businesses. The main feature of the PFAS Guide is the searchable database uncovering different PFAS uses and functions. The online tool also provides guidance on different aspects of the phase-out process from regulation and investigation all the way to testing and supply chain communication.

“We’ve been working to support companies in chemical substitution for a long time, and the last few years we’ve gathered a group of companies working specifically on the PFAS issue. The discussions with them made it clear to us that a main challenge is understanding if and where in your business you may have PFAS”, says Dr. Anna Lennquist, Project Leader for the PFAS Guide.

PFAS are a source of growing concern
It has been estimated that 95 percent of all manufactured goods rely on some form of industrial chemical process. A large share of the chemicals used in these processes have been linked to adverse impacts on human health and the environment. PFAS are a clear example of this problem. PFAS have been manufactured and used in products such as make-up, non-stick pans, water- and greaseproof textiles, food-packaging materials, and firefighting foam since the 1950s and are still used in a wide variety of products around the world today.

But they are also substances of growing concern due to their problematic properties. Per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS) are a group of several thousand man-made chemicals that accumulate in the environment and cause health impacts for generations. They are, for example, linked to cancer, lung disease, diabetes, reproductive abnormalities and learning difficulties. Since PFAS do not degrade, these “forever chemicals” are now so widespread that is safe to say that every single human being on the planet have detectable levels of these toxic chemicals in their blood.

A couple of weeks ago, a big proposal to restrict PFAS in the EU was published. The five EU Member States behind the proposal submitted a broad restriction proposal that clearly shows the need for the industry to put all resources into phasing out all PFAS substances.