From the Sector

In September, Ontex reached a binding agreement to sell its Brazilian business activities to Softys SA for an enterprise value of approximately €110 million, enabling improved focus on retail brands and healthcare in Europe and North America. Net proceeds of approximately €82 million are due at closing, which is expected during the first half of 2025, subject to customary conditions.

In October, the social negotiations regarding the transformation of the operating footprint in Belgium were successfully concluded. This transformation fits in Ontex’s footprint optimization, allowing to further strengthen Ontex’s competitive position. The total one-time cost is estimated at €(66) million, of which €(37) million was already recorded in the second quarter.

Q3 2024 results

• Revenue was €468 million, up 1.7% like for like. Volumes, including mix effects, were up 4.4%, driven by contract gains and supportive demand in adult care, and by growth in baby care with new retail customers in North America. Sales prices were 2.6% lower, as expected, reflecting raw material index decreases and investments in increased competitiveness. Forex fluctuations were supportive, adding 0.7%, bringing total growth at 2.4%.
• Adjusted EBITDA was €56 million, up 29% year on year, thanks to volume and mix growth and the cost transformation program delivery, contributing €8 million and €14 million respectively. The operational efficiency improved further by 3.7%, driving stronger profitability and competitiveness. Index-driven lower raw material costs more than compensated for lower sales prices, leading to a €4 million positive net impact. The increase of other operating and SG&A costs had a €(12) million effect, mostly due to continued inflation. Forex fluctuations had an adverse effect of €(2) million. The adjusted EBITDA margin thereby rose to 12.0%, up 2.4pp year on year.
• Operating profit was €8 million, compared to €29 million in 2023. The decrease relates to the transformation of the Belgian operating footprint and reflects the additional one-time provisions taken following the recent successful conclusion of the social plan negotiations.
• Discontinued operations generated a €14 million operating profit, compared to €12 million in 2023. While revenue was 3.0% lower like for like and the adjusted EBITDA margin dropped to 7.6%, reflecting more challenging market conditions, this was compensated by a net gain on disposal, that was triggered by the agreement to divest the Brazilian business.
• Net financial debt for the Total Group dropped €9 million to €579 million over the quarter. Combined with the adjusted EBITDA improvement, the leverage ratio thereby fell from 2.5x at the end of June to 2.4x at the end of September.

2024 outlook

Ontex’s management confirms its guidance for adjusted EBITDA margin, free cash flow and leverage for the full year. While new customers are on-boarded in North America, the ramp-up is phased more gradually over the third quarter and the coming months, leading management to review its revenue growth guidance, now expecting:

• Revenue [1] to grow between 2% and 3% like for like;
• Adjusted EBITDA margin [1] of 12%;
• Free cash flow higher than €20 million;
• Leverage ratio below 2.5x at year end.

GarmentTech Istanbul, Turkey's comprehensive meeting point in the field of garment technologies, will bring together leading garment machinery manufacturers and representatives of world-famous brands. The exhibition, which will host professional visitors and global buyers in Istanbul for 4 days, will offer important opportunities to change the stagnation experienced in the sector in the recent period, to take strong steps towards the future and to bring dynamism to the sector.  

The Exhibition will be held at Istanbul Expo Centre (IFM) between 25-28 June 2025 and presents all technologies used in garment and ready-to-wear production from sewing to cutting, ironing systems to packaging, embroidery to denim.

Ready-to-wear and garment, which is the 3rd most exporting sector in Turkey, is one of the leading sectors with its employment and export revenues. Despite the general stagnation in the Turkish and global economy, the increase in ready-to-wear and garment exports, especially in September, reveals the sector's resilience and competitiveness in international markets. The sector, which exported approximately 1.6 billion dollars in September, reinforces its contribution to the national economy with its success. This is made possible by companies' innovative approaches and their ability to adapt quickly to global market demands. GarmentTech Istanbul Garment, Embroidery Machinery Spare Parts and Sub-Industry Exhibition is organised to ensure the sustainability of this success and to provide a new vision to the companies in the sector.

The Integrated Regulatory Strategy (IRS) has increased the knowledge on chemicals and sped up identification of substances for which regulatory risk management actions are required. Refocussed IRS 2024-2028 will continue moving substances to risk management.

ECHA’s Integrated Regulatory Strategy aimed to speed up data generation, identification of groups of substances of concern, and regulatory action. It did so by integrating different regulatory processes into one approach to manage chemical risks effectively and efficiently. The strategy also encouraged collaboration between ECHA, Member States authorities and the European Commission.

The original goal of the IRS was achieved: to clarify which REACH registered substances are a high priority for regulatory risk management or data generation, and which are currently a low priority for further regulatory action.

ECHA’s sixth and final report of its Integrated Regulatory Strategy 2019-2023 shows that it achieved its goal of screening high production volume chemicals, manufactured or imported above 100 tonnes per year, that were on the European markets in 2018.

Since 2019, ECHA has grouped and screened 6 000 substances, and addressed almost all of the 4 100 high production volume chemicals. Around 1 900 of substances screened in ECHA’s assessments of regulatory needs may potentially require regulatory risk management, mostly harmonised classification and labelling (CLH) or restriction under REACH. For more than two thirds of those, further data is needed first to confirm the relevant hazards. Around 60 % of all substances screened did not require further action.

Several substance groups, identified as requiring regulatory risk management, have been included in the EU’s Restrictions Roadmap, for example bisphenols, ortho-phthalates, flame retardants, hydrocarbyl siloxanes and hydrocarbylphenols.

Ofelia Bercaru, ECHA’s Director of Prioritisation and Integration, said:
“The strategy has significantly contributed to the EU ambition towards reaching the United Nations’ 2030 Sustainable Development Goals concerning chemicals. Over the next four years, we will continue the coordinated approach towards prioritising substances for risk management, whilst maintaining our good knowledge on ECHA’s chemical database, enhancing transparency with authorities and stakeholders, and exploring synergies with ECHA’s new tasks.

Next steps
The reviewed IRS for 2024-2028 will continue to improve the protection of human health and the environment from risks posed by hazardous chemicals. ECHA, the European Commission and Member States’ authorities will focus on agreeing more swiftly the necessary risk management measures for the identified substances of concern.

The future prioritisation of authorities’ activities will focus, for example, on the one substance one assessment principle. ECHA will integrate its new tasks to this approach in coming years.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany and Japan. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, in collaboration with Nonwovens Industry Magazine, is now accepting nominations for the 2025 IDEA® Achievement Awards. Industry professionals in the nonwoven and engineered materials sectors are invited to submit their innovative products—or those of their clients—for consideration.

The IDEA Achievement Awards honor innovations introduced since IDEA22, recognizing excellence in six categories. Winners will be announced during IDEA25, which will be held at the Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami Beach, Florida, from April 29 to May 1, 2025.

Award Categories:

• Raw Materials – Best new raw materials introduction
• Nonwoven Product – Best new nonwoven fabric introduction
• Short-Life – Best new short-life product introduction
• Long-Life – Best new durable product introduction
• Equipment – Best new equipment introduction
• Sustainability Advancement – Recognizing sustainability and/or circularity advancements in raw materials, nonwoven fabrics, processes and equipment, and end-use products.

Entries must be submitted by December 16, 2024 for consideration. Finalists in each category will be selected by INDA’s Technical Advisory Board, with the top three in each category moving forward. Voting will take place on the Nonwovens Industry website, allowing industry professionals to determine the winners. Additionally, the recipient of the Entrepreneur Award will be chosen exclusively by Nonwovens Industry Magazine.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on October 23 and 24, 2024, in Halls A1 and A2 at the Messe München exhibition grounds, visitors will once again find fabric innovations for Fall/Winter 2026 across the segments of performance wear, footwear, accessories, and, for the first time, bodywear. The jury, composed of renowned industry experts, reviewed the latest fabrics for the 2026 season in the Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forum, looking for outstanding innovations. A total of one Performance Award and one Eco Performance Award were presented.

PERFORMANCE DAYS continues to deliver plenty of highlights and innovations in technical fibers and materials in the Trend Forum at the winter exhibition. Since Fall 2023, the event has also focused on the footwear segment, summarizing the latest trends and news in the dedicated Footwear Forum. Starting in October 2024, the organizers will introduce a new Bodywear Collective, complete with a corresponding Trend Forum. In close collaboration with the London Contour Experts and designer and industry expert Nichole de Carle, PERFORMANCE DAYS will feature a Trend Forum dedicated to underwear, shapewear, bras & leggings, yoga in motion, and swimwear.

The expert jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, and guest jurors Regina Goller, a textile expert with experience in sustainable functional fabrics at companies like Odlo, Puma, and Jack Wolfskin, as well as Stephan Prinz, Account Manager Germany at Klopman, praised the quality, sustainability approaches, and high level of innovation in the submissions. The jury awarded one Performance Award (Bodywear) and one Eco Performance Award (Apparel).

The winners are: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA & Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL
For the Fall/Winter 2026 season, the jury selected three awards for outstanding fabrics.

Alongside the Eco Performance Award, which went to A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA for the article “69222/Colorful chemistry featuring holistic farming,” one Performance Award
was also presented for the first time in the bodywear segment: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL made their debut in the Bodywear Forum with "13949.

ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA / Article “69222 - Colorful Chemistry Featuring Holistic Farming”
In collaboration with Good Earth Cotton, this project focuses on sustainable farming practices to reduce the environmental impact of cotton while improving soil health, paving the way for a carbon-neutral future. The supplier is also exploring innovations with organic cotton grown using regenerative farming methods, expanding the scope for future eco-friendly concepts. Additionally, the fabric is dyed using biological dyes—an innovative technique where natural bacteria produce pigments that bond efficiently with the fabric a low temperatures without the use of petrochemicals. The fabric is available in pink and
sand.

Jury Statement: “This fabric takes this year’s focus topic to the next level! A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA’s fabric innovation showcases the future of dyeing with microorganisms. Textile dyeing with living organisms is a sustainable and resource-efficient method that requires no harmful chemicals. Additionally, the fabric, made from 100% organic cotton, excels in performance due to an innovative body-mapping concept that provides optimal support during wear.”

PERFORMANCE AWARD: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH / Penn Italia SRL / Article “13949” This fabric, composed of 68% recycled polyamide and 32% ROICA, with a weight of 290 grams, is perfect for baselayer construction. It can be customized with the brand’s own design, featuring open structures and a 3D effect for added texture. Despite its structure, the fabric has an incredibly soft touch, ensuring maximum comfort during wear. Jury Statement: “Penn Textiles was a popular vote, an award worthy of the jury. The fabric has a combination of high density opaque areas with lighter breathable panels. A superior choice for the Bodywear Category because of its customisable 3D design aesthetic, printable qualities and second skin super soft touch. The fabric blend of Roica yarn and recycled PA has many admirable qualities for next to skin, including anti-odor, quick dry and outstanding stretch and recovery to adapt to the body shape. Fabric, with a perfect fit for body contouring products including leggings, underwear and light support shapewear.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces the three finalists competing for the 2024 Hygienix Innovation Award™. Harper Hygienics, Hello Hazel, and HIRO Technologies will present their absorbent hygiene products at Hygienix™, taking place November 18-21 at The Renaissance Nashville Hotel, Nashville, Tennessee.

• Harper Hygienics S.A.: Cleanic Naturals Hemp – Sanitary Pads (Day & Night), Pantyliners
  Cleanic Naturals Hemp by Harper Hygienics S.A. is an innovative femcare line, crafted with sero™ regenerative hemp fibers produced by Bast Fibre Technologies and processed on our unique Hemplace™ technology platform. These sanitary pads and pantyliners are designed for women’s comfort throughout their cycle. Hemp’s antibacterial and hypoallergenic properties make it a natural solution for sensitive skin, ensuring all-day safety and comfort. Plus, sero™ hemp fibers are 100% natural, offering an eco-conscious approach to personal care.
• Hello Hazel, Inc.: Hazel High & Dry Briefs
  Hazel’s High & Dry Briefs – the first and only disposable briefs for leaks designed to look, fit, and feel like real underwear. Engineered with a novel, ultra-thin, highly absorbent core seamlessly integrated beneath a unique elasticated cover that moves naturally with her body, offering unparalleled comfort, discretion, and reliable protection. Purposefully developed to reduce stigma and address both physical and emotional needs, the Briefs successfully attracted many new consumers who previously opted out of the category.
• HIRO Technologies, Inc.: World’s First MycoDigestable™ Diapers
  Introducing the world’s first MycoDigestible™ diapers, powered by HIRO’s frontier fungal technology. HIRO’s MycoDigestible™ solution introduces plastic-eating mushrooms in a safe, user-friendly way that seamlessly integrates into everyday life. The HIRO Diaper combines exceptional absorbency with natural materials like unbleached TruCotton™ and Kraft softwood fluff pulp, offering 12-hour protection while being gentle on both baby and planet.

The 2024 winner will be revealed on Thursday, November 21st at 11:00 am.

The 2023 Hygienix Innovation Award went to Sequel Spiral™ Tampon, which features a unique spiral design engineered for enhanced fluid absorption and leak prevention. This breakthrough product received FDA clearance as a medical device and is available online and in a growing number of retail outlets.

Together with the Association of the German Furniture Industry (VDM) and the German Furniture and Kitchen Retailers Association (BVDM), Koelnmesse has decided to skip the imm cologne's January 2025 edition. This joint decision was taken following intense discussions and reflects the challenging conditions the furniture industry is currently facing, particularly in Germany. It gives everyone involved the chance to collaborate with Koelnmesse on the development of a new, more viable future trade fair format.

It was taken primarily due to the fact that the German furniture manufacturers are generally in troubled waters, as there is a scarce domestic demand for furniture, and the industry is therefore, understandably, keeping a close eye on its spending.

According to the latest VDM industry figures, the entire market recorded a significant fall in turnover in 2023, as well as in the first six months of 2024. It dropped by 9.7 percent for all furniture, and even by 11.2 percent for upholstered furniture. The employee and company numbers are also going down.

"We're extremely sorry to be skipping the imm cologne, but ultimately, this is a necessary, and the right step," says VDM president Leo Lübke. "Like many other industries, the furniture market has also changed considerably over the past few years - and along with this the demand for trade fairs. Unfortunately, the industry's current situation is forcing many companies to change course. As an industry, we are working intensely with Koelnmesse on the development of new concepts tailor-made specifically for the individual furniture segments. As Europe's largest furniture nation, we need our central industry shows, and believe in the Cologne venue's furniture expertise."

BVDM president Markus Meyer agrees: "I understand the decision to skip next January's trade fair, and I'm sorry that the industry did not lend better support to its leading international trade fair. The imm cologne has been an important meeting place for the industry for decades. By taking a break next year, we will not only lose a central platform for innovation and exchange, but also an important stage for serving the international market. All of the industry's stakeholders are now urgently tasked with getting together and finding joint solutions. More than ever before, we must now concentrate on securing and strengthening our position. The industry needs a strong platform like the imm cologne in order to restructure itself in a way that ensures its future viability."

The chairman of the Koelnmesse management board is also looking towards the future: "Pausing the imm cologne at this point in time is a logical decision, in view of the situation the industry currently finds itself in," says Gerald Böse. "It was an extremely difficult decision to make, but it was also unavoidable in order to show our international customers some consideration. Due to its January date, the imm cologne did not take place three years in a row during the pandemic. This lack of continuity, coupled with the current economic environment, makes it impossible for us as event organisers to guarantee an attractive range of exhibitors for the retailers in Cologne in January 2025. We still intend to offer the furniture industry an international stage in Germany in future. We are already jointly developing very promising concepts that meet the changed requirements of all stakeholders as best as can be. Koelnmesse is the world's number one in interiors, as impressively proven by the ORGATEC, the interzum and the spoga+gafa. We must now steer our flagship back on course, together with the furniture industry!"

DyStar, a specialty chemical company with a heritage of more than a century in product development and innovation, announced that they won the Champion Award for outstanding contribution and performance at the Adidas adiFormulator Award, an annual program launched in 2023.

Mrs. Fanny Vermandel, Vice President of Global Marketing Coloration at DyStar Group said, “DyStar is very pleased to receive the newly minted accolades from Adidas, as it further demonstrates our unwavering commitment to supporting the success of our customers, including brands and retailers, in their sustainability journey towards achieving their 2030 goal of 100% ZDHC MRSL Conformance.”

As a responsible leader in dyestuff and chemical manufacturer, DyStar offers over 2,100 products listed on the ZDHC Gateway that meet the ZDHC MRSL V3.1 specifications. Brands and Retailers and other stakeholders can leverage DyStar’s expertise to support their journey towards ZDHC MRSL conformance. To date, 99.7% of DyStar’s products listed on ZDHC have achieved the highest accreditation level of 3.

Topo Athletic Adopts eVent Fabrics Plant-Positive: Starting in 2024, the Topo Athletic Terraventure 4 WP and Trailventure 2 WP will feature eVent’s sustainable plant-based BIO Footwear technology.

eVent^®️ Fabrics, a global leader in waterproof and breathable fabric technologies, is officially supplying their planet-positive eVent BIO™ Footwear waterproof/breathable laminate to Topo Athletic, leaders in sustainably-minded footwear for walking, running, and hiking.

The eVent BIO Footwear technology is currently being used in the Topo Terraventure 4 WP trail shoe and the Trailventure 2 WP hiking boot. Both shoes offer comfort, performance, and now, an eco-friendly waterproof/breathable membrane.

Designed to withstand any weather conditions, BIO Footwear is a waterproof and planet-positive laminate that combines cutting-edge technology with highly renewable plant-based materials. BIO Footwear offers good abrasion resistance, ensuring your shoes stand the test of time. From rugged outdoor adventures to everyday wear, BIO Footwear is ready to take on any challenge while keeping your feet dry, comfortable, and blister free.

The waterproof version of the lightweight, rugged, and versatile trail runner and hiker, the Terraventure 4 WP is built to take on wet conditions. The upper features an eVent® BIO footwear bootie construction to lock water out, while the tightly woven mesh provides a secure and durable fit. The 25 x22 mm platform combines moderate cushioning with a forefoot rock plate for a comfortable and protective ride. The Vibram® Megagrip outsole offers superior traction and slip resistance on all terrain, especially in wet conditions.

The Trailventure 2 WP’s mesh upper features a full eVent® BIO footwear waterproof bootie construction, while the ZipFoamTM midsole and external TPU heel counter offer comfort and security. Gaiter attachments work with Topo's Performance Gaiter to keep dirt and debris out. The Vibram® Megagrip outsole provides grip on all surfaces, while the full-length ESS rock plate offers protection and stability.