From the Sector

The Fashion for Good Museum publishes its legacy document. The report was prompted by the museum’s closure on June 5th, 2024. It represents the museum’s mission, summarising invaluable insights gathered over six years and key results such as reaching 115.000 visitors and creating a dedicated community of more than 250.000 followers online. Committed to transparency and collaboration, Fashion for Good shares its reflections, tools, and transferable learnings, as well as the future of its collections and next steps, continuing to inspire positive change within the fashion ecosystem. All information can be accessed on the Fashion for Good website for continued use and benefit of educators, the cultural sector, and the wider public.

Looking back on its journey, the Fashion for Good Museum celebrates achievements such as hosting 115.000 visitors, including 8.000 students from 200 schools, curating 13 exhibitions, offering over 75 events, launching 4 educational programmes, reaching both current and future generations, and inspiring many to drive change in the fashion industry. With an earned media value of over 46 million Euros through press coverage since 2017, Fashion for Good's influence has been significant, evident in its 250.000 social media followers and 15.000 newsletter subscribers.

The report fulfils the promise Fashion for Good made in 2017 – to share their journey, learnings, and most impactful activities with the world. Within these pages, readers will discover reflections on their messaging, insights about creative partnerships with entities such as Lowlands Festival, Dutch Design Week, and Museumnacht to case studies of pioneering exhibitions. Their programming was created around themes and topics, such as the untold stories around cotton, circularity, and the future of biomaterials to educate and inspire visitors, ultimately empowering them to take action themselves.

Reflecting on the output of the museum during its short existence, as well as its footprint and wide reach, while acknowledging the challenges encountered during its establishment and development, Fashion for Good distilled six key lessons from Fashion for Good's sustainable museum practices:

• Recognition of Broader Shift: There is a wider movement towards sustainability in the museum sector, exemplified by Fashion for Good and the new ICOM definition.
• Storytelling for Societal Change: Cultural institutions are crucial in driving societal change in fashion consumption through storytelling.
• Innovation through Limitations: Embracing organisational limitations can stimulate innovation in museum collection management and education.
• Audience Engagement: Understanding and expanding the core audience is essential for effective engagement in sustainability initiatives.
• Measuring Impact: It's challenging to measure impact for organisations with social missions, requiring clear success criteria.
• Establishing a Sustainability Framework: Defining sustainability within context is fundamental for organisational sustainability efforts.

Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 is one of the most important Italian companies in the textile finishing sector. Founded in 1973 in Masserano in the textile district of Biella, the company offers the complete range of dyeing of all types of fibres, finishing, digital printing, lamination and membrane lining. These processes are used to give fabrics certain properties, such as colour, pattern, softness, shine or waterproofness.

At Tintoria Finissaggio 2000, customers benefit from the fact that all processes are handled under one roof, from design support to the finishing of fabrics, combining decades of experience with the new possibilities of lamination and digital printing. The dyeing plant in Masserano is a state-of-the-art facility that fulfils the strictest environmental standards. In general, Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 continuously invests in state-of-the-art technologies and production facilities in order to achieve high-quality results while ensuring sustainable production processes.

Tintoria Finissagio 2000 also focused on innovation when equipping a new stenter frame. The company opted for the latest development from German machine manufacturer Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG: the Orthopac RXVMC-20 automatic straightening system. The new straightening concept is specially designed for processing textiles with high distortion dynamics, i.e. textiles with highly variable distortion. Two individually controlled and driven straightening modules with a total of three bow and four skew rollers ensure that bow and skew distortions are corrected in small steps. The control concept is also new. A scanner group at the infeed of the straightener detects distortions even before they reach the correction rollers. This means that the rollers are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimetre. A scanner group at the outfeed also recognises any residual distortion, which is then corrected on the second straightening module.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will participate in the ITM 2024 International Textile Machinery Exhibition in Istanbul, Türkiye from 4th to 8th June 2024 with a full product lineup.

WHOLEGARMENT® knitting has recently gained heavy interest from the apparel industry due to the shrinking workforce of skilled sewing and linking personnel, as well as for its sustainable benefits by requiring the minimum amount of material to produce one item at a time. SHIMA SEIKI intends to gain even more interest with its new SWG-XR® flagship machine. SWG-XR® features the company's original SlideNeedle™on 4 needle beds for high quality production of WHOLEGARMENT® products using all needles, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit before, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at ITM will be shown in 15L. The MACH2®XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine, also with original SlideNeedle™ on four needle beds, will be shown in 8L. Other WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines include the MACH2®VS V-bed machine for producing WHOLEGARMENT® items using every other needle, shown in 8 and 18 gauges, as well as the compact SWG®091N2 for producing smaller WHOLEGARMENT® items and accessories, to be shown in 10 gauge. An economical proposal in V-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be introduced in the form of the N.SVR®183 machine in 24 gauge.

SHIMA SEIKI’s technology in computerized shaped knitting is represented by its N.SVR®122 computerized flat knitting machine in 14 gauge, and features such innovations as the R2CARRIAGE®, WideGauge® knitting, spring-type moveable sinkers, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. Also on display will be the SCG®122SN coarse gauge machine in 3 gauge. Automatic seamless glove knitting machines will also be present, including the SFG®20 21-gauge machine, and SFG®-I in 10 gauge.

On the software side, demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system and APEXFiz® subscription-based design software. Each provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way the design evaluation process is improved with ultra-realistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples replace physical sampling, consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Digital prototyping using virtual samples on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® help to digitally transform the fashion supply chain for realizing sustainable manufacturing. SHIMA KnitManager™ knit production management software will also be shown to demonstrate solutions for maximizing productivity through monitoring of machine status and production progress.

• Sales Volume rose 3% QoQ and 2% YoY to 3.55MT
• Adjusted EBITDA of $366M, a rise of 32% QoQ and a decline of 2% YoY
• Operating cash flows of $184M
• Net Operating Debt to Equity of 1.12
• Reported EPS of THB0.17

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported an improved quarterly performance as the prolonged destocking trend showed further signs of easing. During the quarter, the company progressed its IVL 2.0 evolved strategy to enhance earnings quality and transform its business to emerge stronger from the downturn in global chemical markets.

Indorama Ventures’ reported Adjusted EBITDA1  of $366 million in 1Q24, a 32% increase QoQ and a 2% decline YoY. Sales volume grew 3% QoQ as the widespread customer destocking that sapped demand through 2023 shows signs of a gradual recovery across all sectors, partially offset by a winter freeze in the U.S. The result was supported by lower utilities costs in Europe, Red Sea-related supply chain disruptions that benefited the company’s import parity advantages, and favorable shale gas economics that bolstered profitability in the U.S.

Indorama Ventures expects the recovery in volumes to continue through 2024, albeit at a gradual pace as destocking normalizes and the approaching summer supports demand. However, the overall landscape for the global chemical industry remains challenging due to excess capacity builds, as well due to persistent inflation and high interest rates which weigh on industry spreads and continue to impair profitability, especially across the polyester value chain. Our HVA segment ‘Indovinya’ is progressing well into the second quarter post the easing of destocking and anticipating a healthy 2024.

The company’s experienced management remains intensely focused on managing costs, optimizing competitiveness, and maintaining high liquidity. Indorama Ventures’ diverse geographical footprint is a key advantage in the current low-margin environment, allowing its businesses to maintain their strong market premium, supported by protection from trade and non-trade barriers.

In 1Q, the company made headway with its IVL 2.0 three-year plan to leverage its global leadership position and forge a new era of opportunity amid significant structural changes in chemical markets. Under the evolved strategy, which the company outlined at its annual Capital Markets Day in March, Indorama Ventures is optimizing assets, reducing debt, and focusing on generating free cash flow to deliver enhanced shareholder returns. Today, 70% of the company's revenue has deployed the SAPS/4HANA ERP and is using the infrastructure to enhance digital procurement, sales excellence, and integration of supply chains across the business. The company believes these AI tools will improve productivity and costs, as well as release working capital in line with its modernization strategy.

As part of IVL 2.0, the company is optimizing 7 sites, including the ongoing evaluation of its PTA/PET operation in the Netherlands. It has also made significant progress in its program to refinance $1.1 billion of debt within the first half of 2024 to ensure ample liquidity. Recent capital raisings include a $255 million ‘Ninja loan’, a THB 10 billion debenture, a $100M bi-lateral loan, and this week’s successful close of a $500 million syndicated loan – achieved at lower-than-average spreads compared to previous issuances.

To unlock value, Indorama Ventures is preparing its packaging and surfactants businesses for IPOs. From 1Q24, the Indovinya segment (previously named ‘Integrated Oxides and Derivatives’) is focused on developing its attractive downstream surfactants operations as a separate segment. The segment’s Intermediate Chemicals business, consisting of shale base integrated Ethylene MEG, MTBE and merchant Purified EO assets, have been moved under the Combined PET (CPET) segment where they are a natural fit.

Segment Performances
In 1Q24, CPET segment (including Intermediate Chemicals) posted Adjusted EBITDA of $249 million, a 34% gain QoQ and 4% YoY as supply chain disruptions and a consequent spike in global ocean freight rates supported high prices and margins, and as Western markets benefited from lower energy costs. The Indovinya segment reported a stable Adjusted EBITDA of $70 million, impacted by the winter freeze in the U.S and a mini turnaround at a PO/PG plant. The Fibers segment achieved a remarkable 73% increase in Adjusted EBITDA to $39 million QoQ, and 2% YoY, as destocking waned across all three business verticals and drove an 8% QoQ increase in volume.

International technology group ANDRITZ has successfully started up a new nonwovens production line supplied to Teknomelt Teknik Mensucat San. ve Tic. A.S. in Kahramanmaras, Türkiye. The new neXline wetlace CCP (carded-carded-pulp) line produces nonwoven roll goods for biodegradable, plastic-free wet wipes

By combining the benefits of two technologies, spunlace and wetlaid, the line enables the use of bio-based fibers, like viscose and wood pulp, to produce a high-performance and sustainable wipe with the same technical product characteristics and performances as a conventional wipe made of synthetic fibers while protecting the environment.

Teknomelt is one of the leading manufacturers of nonwoven meltblown, spunbond, SMS and SMMS fabrics in Türkiye. The company serves a wide range of markets, exporting 45% of its production. With the new ANDRITZ Wetlace CCP line, the company is expanding its range of sustainable nonwovens production for wipes. 

Graniteville Specialty Fabrics has set new standards by challenging the traditional pad finishing process. With Baldwin Technology’s spray finishing technology, Graniteville Specialty Fabrics has been able to increase production efficiency, and minimize chemical and water waste.
 
Based in Graniteville, South Carolina, Graniteville Specialty Fabrics produces coatings and coated fabrics that are resistant to water, fire, UV and weather for the military, marine and tent markets. The installation of Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 is part of a facility upgrade to maximize production efficiency and capacity in the durable water-repellent finishing and coating line to meet growing customer demand for advanced engineered products.

With sustainability benefits, tracking and process control, and Industry 4.0 integration, the TexCoat™ G4 provides high-quality fabric finishing, with no chemistry waste, as well as minimal water and energy consumption. This system utilizes non-contact precision-spray technology, ensuring precise finishing coverage with the exact amount of chemistry. Changeovers (pad bath emptying, cleaning and refilling) are reduced, resulting in substantial chemical conservation and increased productivity.

In recent years, Italian circular knitting machine manufacturer Santoni (part of the Lonati Group) and Groz-Beckert have worked together to develop a new self-cleaning knitting system for the INNOTAS circular knitting machine. The knitting system is also called INNOTAS and consists of the circular knitting machine needle SAN™ DUO and the corresponding sinker SNK DUO-OL.

Following various preliminary investigations, the go-ahead was finally given in January 2015 for the joint development of a self-cleaning system in the needle area with side-by-side needles and a low shank.

The circular knitting machine needle SAN™ DUO with the sinker SNK DUO-OL was developed to meet the desired requirements. In the knitting system, there are two needles in the needle channel and two sinkers in one sinker channel. The benefits became apparent in initial field trials with experienced end customers in 2016. In the following years, the knitting system was continuously analyzed and further optimized.

The double filling in the needle channel significantly reduces soiling. In addition, the further developed shape of the knitting system ensures that any yarn lint is automatically removed from the machine during the knitting process. This extends the cleaning interval, making work more time-efficient and increasing productivity.

Both the needle SANTM DUO and the sinker SNK DUO-OL are characterized by a particularly low shaft with a predetermined breaking notch. The low shank minimizes soiling, while the predetermined breaking groove enables controlled needle breakage in the event of wear at the desired point. This reduces errors in the knitting process and machine downtimes.

At the upcoming SaigonTex, taking place from April 10th to 13th in Ho Chi Minh City, the KARL MAYER GROUP will present its innovations.

DThe KARL MAYER exhibition for warp preparation is entirely dedicated to sustainability. With BLUEDYE, an innovative machine is introduced, which ensures more sustainability and lower costs in the process of indigo dyeing. Thanks to innovative technological solutions, the amounts of water and chemicals used are significantly reduced. Additionally, less yarn waste is generated. Another innovation for more sustainability is CASCADE, a steam and condensation system that requires significantly less steam in the drying process of sizing and indigo dyeing plants by using a solution for energy recycling that is protected against imitation.

For the warp knitting sector, the group of companies presents its latest technological developments. Highlights include a digital solution from KM.ON for optimizing production management (DPM), innovations for enhancing performance in the HKS segment, and a double raschel machine that enables unique creative multi-color designs in spacer textiles with more colour and new Jacquard techniques.

"Vietnam is a growing market for textile production, which is gaining importance especially for major international sports brands," says Eddy Ho, Senior Sales Manager at KARL MAYER.
The sales professional expects a large number of visitors, especially from Vietnam, China, Taiwan, and South Korea. SaigonTex is one of the most important textile machinery exhibitions in East Asia, located in close proximity to production centres. Vietnam is, in turn, the second most important market for the KARL MAYER GROUP after China. It benefits from increasing foreign direct investments in textile production from China, Taiwan, and South Korea.

Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – will display technologies in alignment with the theme of digitalisation at the forthcoming Techtextil and Texprocess 2024 exhibitions, taking place in Frankfurt from April 23-26th.

Automatic handling
The fully automated and digitised handling solutions for finished garments, home textiles and furniture of Eton Systems, for example, will be demonstrated at Texprocess.

Designed to increase value-added time in production by eliminating manual transportation and minimising handling, the individually addressable product carriers are fully managed and controlled by the latest ETONingenious™ software. This web based real-time data collection and information system continuously accumulates, processes and makes all production information instantly available to supervisors, quality control personnel and management.

Bespoke seams
Svegea will demonstrate its EC 300-XS colarette technology, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements.

The EC 300-XS collarette cutter on show in Frankfurt is equipped with the latest E-Drive II system providing the operator with a very user-friendly touchscreen, providing full control of the cutting process. An accompanying FA 350 fully automatic roll slitting machine will also be demonstrated.

Digital finishing
At Techtextil meanwhile, Baldwin Technology Co. will provide full details of how its highly digitised TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to customer requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications.

TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption and chemical usage by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.

Yarn tension
Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, Eltex will display the latest Eltex EyETM system for the continuous monitoring of yarn tension on warp beams.

The Eltex EyETM eliminates problems when warping, and also in subsequent weaving or tufting processes, monitoring the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and enabling a minimum and maximum allowable tension value it be set. If any yarn’s tension falls outside these values the operator can be warned or the machine stopped.

The Eltex ACT and ACT-R units meanwhile go beyond yarn tension monitoring to actually control yarn tension. This extends the application range greatly. The plug and play system automatically compensates for any differences in yarn tension that arise, for example from irregularities in yarn packages.

Accumulated know-how
Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

The company will present its latest X4 yarn feeders with integrated accessory displays (TED) as a new standard, as well as launching its own e-commerce platform – iroonline.com.

The TED function enables weft tension settings to be transferred from one machine to another, enabling a fast start-up the next time the same article is woven. The position of the S-Flex Tensioner is constantly monitored by an internal sensor – even if adjustment is made during power off.

X4 feeders are also available with integrated active tension control (ATC-W) as an option. With the ATC-W active tension control, the required tension is easily set and monitored on the integrated display. Once set, the system constantly regulates itself, ensuring consistent yarn tension during the weaving process which is constantly and accurately measured by the ATC sensor unit, sending a signal to the ATC operator unit resulting in consistently stable yarn tension at the required level.

Kelheim Fibres is showcasing recent research findings at this year's Cellulose Fibres Conference (13rd-14th of March). The development, led by Dr. Ingo Bernt, Project Leader of Fibre & Application Development at Kelheim Fibres, and Dr. Thomas Harter from Graz University of Technology, provides insights into the correlation between the geometry of viscose fibres and the liquid absorption of tampons.

Kelheim Fibres has long been engaged in the functionalization of viscose fibres, including the specific adaptation of fibre cross-sections. The trilobal Galaxy® serves as an example. The current study underscores the properties of the fibre, primarily rooted in its geometry. This involves taking a closer look at the underlying mechanisms. It has been confirmed that, in contrast to the traditionally round viscose fibres and despite similar chemical compositions and mechanical properties, Galaxy® enables significantly better liquid absorption.

While the higher specific surface area of trilobal fibres already promotes improved liquid absorption, this is not the main factor accounting for the difference in absorption. Instead, the geometric shape of the fibres proves to be crucial. Trilobal fibres create and maintain a more voluminous, extensive network within the absorbent body, providing a larger volume for liquid absorption.

Dr. Ingo Bernt emphasizes, "The results of our study are not limited to tampons—any application requiring increased absorbency can benefit from the properties of our Galaxy® fibres."

The lecture "Geometry Matters: Unveiling Tampon Absorption Mechanisms" by Dr. Ingo Bernt und Dr. Thomas Harter takes place on the 14th of March at 2:50pm.