From the Sector

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

Jeanologia celebrates the 25^th anniversary of its pioneering laser technology at Kingpins Amsterdam, with a unique capsule collection that blends the nostalgia of traditional denim with technological advances that have revolutionized the industry. This joint celebration with Kingpins – commemorating their 10th anniversary in Amsterdam and 20th globally – highlights the global impact of laser technology through a visual installation that traces a quarter century of innovation, with a focus on the future.

The launch of Jeanologia’s first laser in 1999 marked the beginning of a new era for the textile industry, improving sustainability, quality, and efficiency. By eliminating hazardous practices like sandblasting, this disruptive technology enhanced processes and redefined the concepts of innovation and sustainability in an industry rooted in craftsmanship. Today, this technology is used in 50% of global jean production, solidifying its position as an essential tool for top manufacturers and fashion brands.

Jeanologia has successfully integrated laser technology into the DNA of denim without losing sight of its classic heritage. This balance between tradition and modernity has cemented its significant impact on the industry. “Laser has enabled more sustainable production and opened up creative possibilities that were once unimaginable,” says Fernando Cardona, Head of Jeanologia's Brainbox.

25 LASER YEARS capsule collection of ‘old new designs’
To commemorate this milestone at Kingpins Amsterdam, Jeanologia will offer an interactive visual journey through the history of their laser technology and present a specially designed capsule collection to celebrate this anniversary.

This installation will showcase a special collection that captures the magic of laser by merging the classic with the modern. Patches, embroidery, and natural wear effects evoke the nostalgia of traditional denim, while the technology plays the silent protagonist behind each finish. The garments illustrate how laser allows iconic vintage effects such as stone washing, worn-out looks, washing marks, rips, and marbling effects using tools like the “Light Ripper” or “Light Scrapper.” The collection also explores the numerous creative possibilities these tools enable, including hyper realistic laser details, denim elements and bleach-like stains. This nostalgic approach invites the reinterpretation of the past through updated historical models that encapsulate the idea of continuous evolution and improvement in laser design.

This "old new designs" capsule collection symbolizes the connection between Jeanologia's legacy and its vision of a greener, more responsible textile industry, celebrating its history while inviting both the industry and consumers to be part of a more sustainable future in denim.

As part of the 25th-anniversary celebration, Jeanologia will offer a digital version of this capsule collection, with 25 digital designs that pay homage to the evolution of laser technology and its transformative impact. Visitors can also experience the unique digital design process with eDesigner software, taking home their digital garment to produce it sustainably anywhere in the world.

Jeanologia invites brands, designers, and consumers to be part of a new era of denim, where tradition and technology merge to create a greener, more innovative, and sustainable future.

A tribute to the ‘Denim Tribe’
Jeanologia does not commemorate this anniversary alone. The collections and the accompanying narrative are a shared tribute to the global community of brands, designers, and manufacturers who have embraced laser technology and contributed to its progress. “More than a celebration for Jeanologia, this is recognition of the entire industry, the ‘denim tribe’ that has courageously and responsibly adopted this technology, advancing towards a more sustainable future in fashion. Without their collaboration, we wouldn’t have achieved this impact,” emphasizes the Head of Technological Development at Jeanologia.

Monforts recently celebrated its 140th anniversary at a special event for staff and their families at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany. Building on a rich history since its foundation by August Monforts in 1884, the company remains 100% dedicated to the development of technologies that will ensure the future success of its textile industry customers.

Under the motto, ‘140 Years of Performance, Innovation and Partners’, Monforts is looking forward to further celebrating this milestone with its representatives and customers at the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Shanghai from October 14-18, in Hall 5 at stand C09.

The first Monforts machines were mechanical napping units for raising the surfaces of cotton fabrics, providing softness and warmth and adding value. By 1893, Monforts 24-roller napping machines were drawing appreciative crowds at the World Fair in Chicago – establishing international trade networks was paramount to the company from the outset.

In 1897, August Monforts established an iron foundry equipped with hydraulic casting machines, by which time the company employed 1,200 people. This was followed by the introduction of semi-automatic manufacturing tools – an area in which Monforts achieved a number of firsts, such as the single-spindle lathe which became a big export hit in the late 1930s due to its unique and unmatched precision.

Overseen by successive four generations of the Monforts family, the company’s range of textile machines has been significantly expanded based on decades of accumulated know-how and a dominant position in fabric finishing technologies has been established.

Since 2013, Monforts has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s Group, today one of the world’s largest textile machinery manufacturers.

Since its opening in 2013, the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach has proved a valuable resource to customers for achieving new standards in fabric finishing.

Over an area of 1,200 square metres, it houses two full finishing lines, engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full colour kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials.

“The ATC allows our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics on Monforts dyeing and finishing machines under fully confidential, real production conditions,” says Monforts Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “Using the results from these trials, we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes.”

Archroma, specialist in chemicals towards sustainable solutions, Kipaş Denim, a Turkish company with a focus on integrated textile production, and Jeanologia, a sustainable textile solutions company, are collaborating to pioneer a new denim finishing process for enhanced aesthetic appeal and greater sustainability.

Combining their advanced technologies, the three textile innovators are behind the launch of Kipaş Denim’s new Contra Denim concept – a breakthrough in denim dyeing and finishing that enables brands to create stunning and long-lasting distressed looks and designs effects, including intricate patterns, whiskering and fades, through cleaner processes that save water and energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Denim has traditionally been challenging to produce, especially for black and indigo fabric with a worn or distressed look, requiring significant water usage, harmful chemicals and intensive manual labor. The Contra Denim collection is laser- and laundry-friendly, with colors that are deep and durable. Stunning wash-down vintage effects and high contrasts are achieved via washing or laser techniques.

Contra Denim is based on Archroma’s DENIM HALO, a new approach to denim production that incorporates resource-saving pretreatment that includes DIRSOL® RD and dyeing processes to produce easy-wash laser-friendly denim. It delivers a substantially reduced environmental footprint compared to the industry-standard denim finishing process while reducing yarn shrinkage and improving garment tensile strength.

The Contra Denim’s vintage looks are achieved with advanced laser marking technology from Jeanologia. Thanks to the combination of Archroma and Jeanologia technologies, manual hand scraping or potassium permanganate spraying harmful for workers and the environment are completely eliminated.

Fernando Cardona, Brain Box Team Manager, Jeanologia, said: “As a purpose-driven textile technology company, we take pride in working with partners to accompany them through their transformational processes. We are delighted to work with industry leaders such as Archroma and Kipaş Denim, who are at the forefront of responsible denim production.”

Initially producing a ContraBlack Denim collection, Kipaş Denim has now extended the Contra line to classic indigo and other colors from the DIRESUL® RDT range.

The ContraBlack collection earned a Jeanologia Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) score of 11 on stone wash versus the ring dyeing market standard score of 67. This confirms the low impact of the ContraBlack range in both water and energy consumption, chemical impact and workers’ health.

After a initial launch in 2022, global denim company Wrangler® launches the second installment of Wrangler Reborn™ – the latest collection to celebrate the upcycling of denim. The newest Wrangler Reborn™ sees the brand collaborate with BVH Services’ brand Beyond Retro, for the first time. BVH are one of the largest vintage retailers across Europe with a reputation for producing on-trend fashion without a hefty carbon footprint making them the perfect partner to give the collection a new dimension and even greater scale globally.

Purposefully crafted with circularity and sustainability in mind, the latest Wrangler Reborn™ Collection features a sustainable twist on some of its classic styles, including the Greensboro Straight Leg Jean, Reworked Short, Icon Jacket and Heritage Shirt that provide consumers with wardrobe staples they can wear for years to come while simultaneously diverting textile waste from landfills. To create the collection, Wrangler revived discarded denim and transformed it into apparel tough enough to stand the test of time that can be repurposed and re-loved, providing consumers the opportunity to buy better.

Wrangler’s commitment to durability and long-lasting quality products has helped to keep waste out of landfills since 1947. Wrangler Reborn™ enhances that commitment and is an additional step towards the brand’s WeCare Wrangler™ goals, crafted to create a better future through its commitment to sustainability.

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts will exhibit at the upcoming Febratex textile machinery exhibition taking place in Blumenau, Brazil, from August 20-23, along with Uniferro, its new regional partner.

This new alliance follows the retirement of Herbert Erdmann of the service agency Euro Texteis, who has worked with Monforts over more than 30 years to secure a leading position in the region for Montex stenter dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and associated finishing technology.

With offices in Sao Paulo and Ceara and sub-agents across Brazil, Uniferro has been active in the textile industry for over 50 years.

coaTTex
At Febratex, Monforts will introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit exclusively dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coater is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and black-out coating.

Denim hub
Brazil remains a buoyant hub for textile manufacturing with a particular stength in the denim dyeing and finishing sector and many Monforts Thermex hotflue dyeing systems are already operational in the region, reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® process.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics, especially denim, in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying process with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes.

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim fabrics industry, whether through the successful incorporation of new fibres, accommodating new fabric constructions or exploring the many options for how to treat them at the finishing stage, to gain a market advantage,” says says Monforts Regional Sales Manager Achim Gesser. “Our lines allow users to be extremely versatile and respond quickly to market demand, while also allowing very short production runs.”

Because finishing is a particularly energy-intensive part of the textile production chain, it is exactly where convincing results can be achieved, he adds, and Monforts has developed a wide range of energy-saving. These included a range of heat recovery systems, such as the Universal Energy Tower and the ECO Booster. Both can also be retrofitted to existing ranges to make production more resource-efficient and economical, yet without having to invest in a new machine.

“Energy costs tend to be high in Brazil and can account for up to 70% of production costs for our customers, so there is great demand for ways of saving money,” says Gesser. “Cutting energy usage also helps in terms of global warming and reducing carbon footprint, of course, so these latest technologies are a win-win for fabric finishers. As we look forward to a promising partnership with Uniferro in Brazil, we would like to extend our thanks and best wishes for the future to Herbert Erdmann for his hard work over the years.”

Circ^®, a US-based textile-to-textile recycling innovator, announced the launch of Circ^®-Ready, an exclusive community of global supply-chain partners who have demonstrated their ability to make high-quality, better-for-the-planet solutions for fashion brands using Circ materials. The inaugural Circ-Ready partners include AGI Denim, Foshan Chicley Textile Co., Ltd., Giotex, Marubeni Corporation, MAS Holdings, PYRATEX®, Selenis, SHINJINTEX, Soorty Denimkind, Tainan Spinning Co., Ltd., and Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI).

The Circ-Ready community is a selected group of partners who have a proven positive track record and commitment to working with Circ recycled products and have been individually evaluated for industry success. Circ-Ready partners work alongside the Circ team of experts to adequately test and utilize Circ fibers, exceeding quality standards from end to end. To promote transparency and ensure the integrity of Circ products, each Circ-Ready partner provides a commitment to relevant best-in-class certifications for recycled products.

Consisting of processors, manufacturers, and other vital industry players across tiers 1-4, each Circ-Ready partner has undergone a testing process to replace virgin inputs with Circ’s products, proving the ability to utilize Circ products in their existing operations and produce premium materials as a result. Being a member of the Circ-Ready community provides partners the opportunity to work with pilot-stage Circ products, receive ongoing support from Circ’s technical experts, and be among the first recommended by Circ when brands and partners seek to utilize Circ material.

Circ is a leader in blended textile-to-textile recycling, a known challenge for the industry. Each year, tens of millions of tons of polycotton textile waste is landfilled or burned because existing recycling solutions cannot separate the plastic from the natural fiber and recover both materials. Circ’s innovative recycling technology is the only platform to successfully separate polycotton blended textile waste and recover both cellulosic and synthetic fibers. Circ’s primary fiber outputs are regenerated Circ Lyocell and Circ Polyester from textile waste.

KARL MAYER erhält für seine Lösung zum nachhaltigen Indigofärben den Deutschen Award für Nachhaltigkeitsprojekte 2024.

In der Bertelsmann-Repräsentanz in Berlin erhielt das Unternehmen am 11. Juni 2024 den Deutschen Award für Nachhaltigkeitsprojekte 2024 in der Kategorie „Produktion“ und landete hier zudem auf Platz 1 unter den insgesamt vier Preisträgern.

Der Preis wird vom Deutschen Institut für Service-Qualität, dem DUP-Unternehmer-Magazin und dem Nachrichtensender ntv verliehen. Schirmherrin ist die ehemalige Justiz- und Wirtschaftsministerin Brigitte Zypris, die zugleich zum Jury-Team gehört. Das hochkarätig besetzte Entscheidungsgremium sondiert Projekte aus allen Wirtschaftsbereichen, die Nachhaltigkeit vorbildhaft umsetzen – in diesem Jahr 70 Unternehmen aus insgesamt 342 Nominierungen.

Die KARL MAYER GROUP überzeugte durch die Entwicklung von BLUEDYE, einer Lösung zur umweltschonenden Denim-Produktion. Die Jury lobte das Projekt als gute Lösung, die alle Ziele einer Produktionsverbesserung bedienen kann, u. a. Optimierungen bei Qualität und Umweltschutz sowie Reduzierung der Kosten. Dem Projekt wird eine hohe Relevanz für die nachhaltige Produktion von Jeans zugesprochen.

BLUEDYE ist eine Alternative zu den umweltbelastenden Verfahren der heutigen Denim-Produktion. Sie zahlt auf gleich vier Ziele der Sustainable Development Goals für Unternehmen der Vereinten Nationen ein.

Durch die stickstoffbasierte Färbetechnologie minimiert BLUEDYE die erheblichen Mengen an Wasser und Chemikalien, die herkömmlicherweise beim Denim-Färbeprozess verbraucht werden. Der Bedarf an den Hauptschadstoffen Hydrosulfit und Natronlauge kann um mehr als 60 % und die benötigte Wassermenge um mindestens 50 % reduziert werden. Zusätzlich entsteht weniger Garnabfall. Damit trägt BLUEDYE zu einer nachhaltigen Produktion bei (Ziel 12).

Weniger Chemikalieneinsatz bedeutet zugleich weniger Wasserverschmutzung – ein Vorteil, der im Verbund mit der erheblichen Wassereinsparung für sauberes Wasser und damit für die Erfüllung von Ziel 6 sorgt. Zudem führen weniger Schadstoffe im Produktionsprozess zu einem gesünderen, menschenwürdigeren Arbeitsumfeld, wie es beim Ziel 8 gefordert wird.

Gemäß dem Ziel 9 fördert BLUEDYE Innovation durch die Einführung modernster Technologien. 2018 hat KARL MAYER Patente für eine fortschrittliche Denim-Färbetechnologie erworben und auf der Grundlage seines umfassenden Textilmaschinen-Know-hows eine marktfähige Anlage mit höchstem Kundennutzen entwickelt.

Mit BLUEDYE können die Unternehmen der Denim-Branche ihre Produktionsprozesse effizienter und umweltfreundlicher gestalten und ihre Wettbewerbsfähigkeit verbessern: Die positiven Effekte durch BLUEDYE wurden durch Vergleichsmessungen an einer Pilotanlage bei einem Feldtestkunden evaluiert. Referenzwerte bei der Gegenüberstellung waren die Verbrauchsdaten einer bereits seit Längerem im Betrieb befindlichen Produktionsanlage.

Mit BLUEDYE lassen sich die Betriebskosten um bis zu 20 % senken und zugleich die hohen Käuferanforderungen an die Farbqualität der Stoffe und die Farbdurchdringung der Garne von Jeans erfüllen.

The Italian chemical company presents its solution for indigo garment dyeing EASYNDIGO in Amsterdam. The promise is to make indigo easy to obtain in just a few simple steps. The technology, based on the Pull&Push Mechanism, uses specific agents to enhance the two-phase dyeing process of raw garments with indigo.

1^st step: The pull mechanism
The Pull mechanism works on raw garments to pull indigo onto the fibers, using a special wetting and leveling agent called DETERWET EASYNDIGO, which acts as a solubilizer, ensures reproducibility and low-foaming, reducing dye migration during drying. It also involves the dispersing agent DISPERSOLO EASYNDIGO, effective for its diffusion-accelerating properties, which allows for a reduction in time and temperature of the dyeing process without compromising lightfastness.

2^nd step: The push mechanism
The Push mechanism works on dye bath to push the indigo into the fibers using an innovative compound named BASE EASYNDIGO and pre-reduced indigo DenimBlu30 by BluConnection. This method achieves a bright and deep indigo color, improves wash and rubbing fastness, enhances levelness, and is formaldehyde-free.

3^rd step
This extra phase is completely dedicated to creativity: with EASYNDIGO is easy to unleash it and get an authentic indigo garment, while reducing the consumption of water, energy and resources. Around these core concepts Officina39 continues to develop innovative solutions that make denim production increasingly responsible.

This innovative chemical package reaches its deepest effectiveness and gets power in combination with Tonello’s DyeMate technology: two Italian companies have combined their efforts to develop an innovative chemical and technological dyeing process.

Kornit Digital LTD. will display its digital fabric and integrated workflow portfolio at Texprocess 2024, being held April 23-26.

Kornit Digital will feature a view into the end-to-end, fabric manufacturing ecosystem – allowing for production of any fabric and any design for any purpose. The centerpiece is Kornit Presto MAX, transforming the digital world of fabric printing with an ability to print on any fabric type – from cotton and polyester to denim and leather. Built on the promise of sustainability, Presto MAX reduces both water usage and waste. The system is the world’s first offering to print white ink on colored fabrics alongside neon to extend the color gamut by as much as 30 percent. Kornit’s new Vivido inks additionally offers dark black pigments.

Additionally featured is the KornitX Global Fulfillment Network, a solution designed to optimize operational efficiency, eliminate supply chain bottlenecks, and ensure products are readily available to meet customer demands. The solution connects brands, retailers, and digital platforms to a high-quality production network – providing rapid replenishment and trend adaptability for direct-to-fabric production. Pixel-to-parcel monitoring and control fully integrates the end-to-end production workflow for a seamless experience. The solution based on Kornit’s MAX technology enables brands to maximize margins, boost profitability, and pave the way for a sustainable future in the digital on-demand fashion and textile industry.

Beyond technology demonstrations, Kornit will additionally highlight how MAX technology serves as a vibrant partner platform to drive possibilities across the entire fabric printing and processing chain. Key partners highlighted include:

• Colortex: Providing fashionable, custom textiles for the footwear industry.
• ZwissTex: Offering quality, sustainable textile solutions for the automotive and clothing sectors.
• Print Logistic: Delivering a full range of services - from printing to worldwide drop-shipping for smooth e-commerce integration.
• CGS: Driving global performance through business applications, enterprise learning and outsourcing services.
• FastSwen: Leveraging Moving Cavity Technology (MCT) to transform textile handling and production efficiency.
• Premier Digital Textiles: Serving as the prime supplier of textiles with extensive warehousing across the US and UK.
• Greentex: Providing highly sustainable, innovative, and customizable fabrics for advanced textile printing.