From the Sector

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

DyStar has published its Integrated Sustainability Report for FY2023/24. For the past 14 years, DyStar has formally reported on its sustainability performance in accordance with the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) Standards. This report also adopts the Integrated Reporting <IR> framework, which outlines the company's environmental, social, and governance (ESG) practices through the lens of six major capitals.

DyStar has demonstrated the effectiveness of its strategy in the latest report. For instance, their efforts in implementing energy-efficient initiatives across its operations have started to yield credible results. DyStar’s Scope 1 and Scope 2 emissions totaled 42,084 tCO2e, representing a 67% decrease from 2011’s baseline year and a 26% decrease compared to FY2022. Scope 3 accounted for 8.2% of DyStar’s total emissions profile, with over 80% primarily stemming from the transportation of goods and services.

In terms of energy management, the Group has increased its use of renewable energy by 20%. Additionally, several energy conservation initiatives have been implemented as part of a concerted effort to reduce energy consumption globally.

Operationally, there have been several improvements to procedures aimed at boosting water efficiency and achieving cost savings at all manufacturing sites.

Wastewater discharge was reduced by 37%, improving the intensity level to 8.04 m³ per ton of production compared to 8.71 m³ per ton the previous year. This improvement is also partially due to some of their sites operating under a “Zero Liquid Discharge Scheme” mandated by local authorities.

Key highlights of FY2023 include:

• Participated at ITMA Milan, where DyStar introduced a new range of bio-based DyStar products, dyes and auxiliaries containing renewable feedstock, as well as the Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing process.
• Recognition by the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs (IPE), achieving second place on IPE’s Green Supply Chain Corporate Information Transparency Index (CITI).
• Celebrating diversity and inclusivity through global campaigns.

KARL MAYER erhält für seine Lösung zum nachhaltigen Indigofärben den Deutschen Award für Nachhaltigkeitsprojekte 2024.

In der Bertelsmann-Repräsentanz in Berlin erhielt das Unternehmen am 11. Juni 2024 den Deutschen Award für Nachhaltigkeitsprojekte 2024 in der Kategorie „Produktion“ und landete hier zudem auf Platz 1 unter den insgesamt vier Preisträgern.

Der Preis wird vom Deutschen Institut für Service-Qualität, dem DUP-Unternehmer-Magazin und dem Nachrichtensender ntv verliehen. Schirmherrin ist die ehemalige Justiz- und Wirtschaftsministerin Brigitte Zypris, die zugleich zum Jury-Team gehört. Das hochkarätig besetzte Entscheidungsgremium sondiert Projekte aus allen Wirtschaftsbereichen, die Nachhaltigkeit vorbildhaft umsetzen – in diesem Jahr 70 Unternehmen aus insgesamt 342 Nominierungen.

Die KARL MAYER GROUP überzeugte durch die Entwicklung von BLUEDYE, einer Lösung zur umweltschonenden Denim-Produktion. Die Jury lobte das Projekt als gute Lösung, die alle Ziele einer Produktionsverbesserung bedienen kann, u. a. Optimierungen bei Qualität und Umweltschutz sowie Reduzierung der Kosten. Dem Projekt wird eine hohe Relevanz für die nachhaltige Produktion von Jeans zugesprochen.

BLUEDYE ist eine Alternative zu den umweltbelastenden Verfahren der heutigen Denim-Produktion. Sie zahlt auf gleich vier Ziele der Sustainable Development Goals für Unternehmen der Vereinten Nationen ein.

Durch die stickstoffbasierte Färbetechnologie minimiert BLUEDYE die erheblichen Mengen an Wasser und Chemikalien, die herkömmlicherweise beim Denim-Färbeprozess verbraucht werden. Der Bedarf an den Hauptschadstoffen Hydrosulfit und Natronlauge kann um mehr als 60 % und die benötigte Wassermenge um mindestens 50 % reduziert werden. Zusätzlich entsteht weniger Garnabfall. Damit trägt BLUEDYE zu einer nachhaltigen Produktion bei (Ziel 12).

Weniger Chemikalieneinsatz bedeutet zugleich weniger Wasserverschmutzung – ein Vorteil, der im Verbund mit der erheblichen Wassereinsparung für sauberes Wasser und damit für die Erfüllung von Ziel 6 sorgt. Zudem führen weniger Schadstoffe im Produktionsprozess zu einem gesünderen, menschenwürdigeren Arbeitsumfeld, wie es beim Ziel 8 gefordert wird.

Gemäß dem Ziel 9 fördert BLUEDYE Innovation durch die Einführung modernster Technologien. 2018 hat KARL MAYER Patente für eine fortschrittliche Denim-Färbetechnologie erworben und auf der Grundlage seines umfassenden Textilmaschinen-Know-hows eine marktfähige Anlage mit höchstem Kundennutzen entwickelt.

Mit BLUEDYE können die Unternehmen der Denim-Branche ihre Produktionsprozesse effizienter und umweltfreundlicher gestalten und ihre Wettbewerbsfähigkeit verbessern: Die positiven Effekte durch BLUEDYE wurden durch Vergleichsmessungen an einer Pilotanlage bei einem Feldtestkunden evaluiert. Referenzwerte bei der Gegenüberstellung waren die Verbrauchsdaten einer bereits seit Längerem im Betrieb befindlichen Produktionsanlage.

Mit BLUEDYE lassen sich die Betriebskosten um bis zu 20 % senken und zugleich die hohen Käuferanforderungen an die Farbqualität der Stoffe und die Farbdurchdringung der Garne von Jeans erfüllen.

The Italian chemical company presents its solution for indigo garment dyeing EASYNDIGO in Amsterdam. The promise is to make indigo easy to obtain in just a few simple steps. The technology, based on the Pull&Push Mechanism, uses specific agents to enhance the two-phase dyeing process of raw garments with indigo.

1^st step: The pull mechanism
The Pull mechanism works on raw garments to pull indigo onto the fibers, using a special wetting and leveling agent called DETERWET EASYNDIGO, which acts as a solubilizer, ensures reproducibility and low-foaming, reducing dye migration during drying. It also involves the dispersing agent DISPERSOLO EASYNDIGO, effective for its diffusion-accelerating properties, which allows for a reduction in time and temperature of the dyeing process without compromising lightfastness.

2^nd step: The push mechanism
The Push mechanism works on dye bath to push the indigo into the fibers using an innovative compound named BASE EASYNDIGO and pre-reduced indigo DenimBlu30 by BluConnection. This method achieves a bright and deep indigo color, improves wash and rubbing fastness, enhances levelness, and is formaldehyde-free.

3^rd step
This extra phase is completely dedicated to creativity: with EASYNDIGO is easy to unleash it and get an authentic indigo garment, while reducing the consumption of water, energy and resources. Around these core concepts Officina39 continues to develop innovative solutions that make denim production increasingly responsible.

This innovative chemical package reaches its deepest effectiveness and gets power in combination with Tonello’s DyeMate technology: two Italian companies have combined their efforts to develop an innovative chemical and technological dyeing process.

At the upcoming SaigonTex, taking place from April 10th to 13th in Ho Chi Minh City, the KARL MAYER GROUP will present its innovations.

DThe KARL MAYER exhibition for warp preparation is entirely dedicated to sustainability. With BLUEDYE, an innovative machine is introduced, which ensures more sustainability and lower costs in the process of indigo dyeing. Thanks to innovative technological solutions, the amounts of water and chemicals used are significantly reduced. Additionally, less yarn waste is generated. Another innovation for more sustainability is CASCADE, a steam and condensation system that requires significantly less steam in the drying process of sizing and indigo dyeing plants by using a solution for energy recycling that is protected against imitation.

For the warp knitting sector, the group of companies presents its latest technological developments. Highlights include a digital solution from KM.ON for optimizing production management (DPM), innovations for enhancing performance in the HKS segment, and a double raschel machine that enables unique creative multi-color designs in spacer textiles with more colour and new Jacquard techniques.

"Vietnam is a growing market for textile production, which is gaining importance especially for major international sports brands," says Eddy Ho, Senior Sales Manager at KARL MAYER.
The sales professional expects a large number of visitors, especially from Vietnam, China, Taiwan, and South Korea. SaigonTex is one of the most important textile machinery exhibitions in East Asia, located in close proximity to production centres. Vietnam is, in turn, the second most important market for the KARL MAYER GROUP after China. It benefits from increasing foreign direct investments in textile production from China, Taiwan, and South Korea.

Archroma is showcasing its planet conscious innovations and solution systems at this year’s Colombiatex de Las Américas, being held from January 23 to 25, 2024.

Archroma is using its attendance at Colombiatex 2024 to introduce a new concept that promises to help the region’s brands and mills optimize their productivity, add value to their products and create a positive impact on the environment: Super Systems+.

The Super Systems+ solutions offer great performance, including end-product durability, while meeting sustainability targets with cleaner chemistries that comply with current and anticipated industry regulations or deliver resource savings, or both. Solutions are currently available for popular end-use segments, from denim to cotton and poly-cotton knits.

For black denim with a cleaner environmental footprint, brands and mills can choose DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK to create unique shade and wash-down effects with an overall impact reduction of 57% compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* For authentic blue denim, Archroma’s aniline-free** pre-reduced DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ produces coveted indigo colors with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a more planet-friendly way.

To embrace circularity and create natural shades on cellulosic-based fibers including cotton, kapok, linen and viscose, brand owners can now turn to Archroma’s patented EarthColors® technology. It makes high-performance biosynthetic dyes from non-edible natural waste, such as almond shells, bitter orange residues and cotton production byproducts, helping conserve natural resources. For next-generation processing of polyester and its blends, Archroma’s ERIOPON® E3-SAVE all-in-one auxiliary combines pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing in a single bath to achieve substantial savings of water, energy and time.

For weather protection and stain resistance that is both economically and environmentally sustainable, Archroma Super Systems+ draw on an extensive portfolio of fluorine-free durable water repellents.

* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

Textil Santanderina, a manufacturer of quality fabrics with controlled traceability, launched its Advanced Black denim collection in collaboration with Archroma.

The Advanced Black collection by Textil Santanderina uses Archroma’s new DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ dyestuff to produce on-trend authentic black denim apparel with sustainability and resource savings. In addition to allowing fashion and apparel brands to choose eco-friendlier alternatives that demonstrate their commitment to protecting people and planet, Textil Santanderina’s new Advanced Black denim range also offers unique shade and wash-down effects.

Based on synthesis technology developed by Archroma, DIRESUL EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ delivers an overall impact reduction to 57%*, measuring its effect on human health, ecosystems and resources compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid. Unlike traditional synthesis processes, it does not produce any ammonia, sodium salts waste or liquid effluents, and water consumption in the synthesis process is reduced by 73% for massive savings. The new DIRESUL dyestuff, when adopted with the full Archroma coloration system, delivers a new black color with on-tone wash-down effect and cleaner effluent at the mill.

Textil Santanderina and Archroma previously collaborated to produce Textil Santanderina’s aniline-free** indigo denim collection with the use of DENISOL® PURE INDIGO.

*As determined by Ecoterrae, a leading Spain-based sustainability consulting firm, through a Life Cycle Analysis (UNE-EN ISO 14044:2006) at the synthesis stage, using the ReCiPe 2016 Impact calculation methodology.
**Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods.

DyStar, a specialty chemical company, announces its latest innovation, Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing.

The launch of DyStar’s Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing aims to reduce water usage by up to 90% and energy consumption by up to 30% during the production process. The new DyStar’s Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing is applicable in the Indigo traditional dyeing process, for Sulphur dyes, and colored Denim. The technique of sustainable indigo dyeing has already been proven to reduce substantially the effluent load in Denim production.

DyStar’s eco-friendly indigo dyeing process is recognized for helping customers deliver better consistency in quality while achieving less wastewater treatment in the effluent.

DyStar announces the plan to restructure its Ludwigshafen facility located in Germany. The strategic decision is made by the company in response to changing business conditions and market shifts.

Mr. Xu Yalin, Managing Director, and President of DyStar Group said, “This is an important strategic move for DyStar. We will focus on developing key emerging markets, which have been shifting over a decade. In the wake of higher energy costs and inflation, DyStar is determined to further improve cost efficiency and drive sustainable productivity as we continue to deliver the highest quality of innovative products that support the global supply chain.”

Mr. Eric Hopmann, Chief Commercial Officer of DyStar Group said, “The restructuring of this facility will be carried out in a phased manner. DyStar will diversify the production activity out of Europe and start with the reduction of manpower as a consequence. DyStar’s customers can be further assured of undisrupted supply, hence their production should not be affected as we will work closely to meet their specific requirements.”

The facility has been an integral part of DyStar’s global network. DyStar inherited this facility from their founders who started the Indigo research and manufacturing more than 125 years ago.

Art meets sustainable fashion in the third edition of the project "CirculART", the initiative that sees companies, artists and fashion designers working together with Cittadellarte - Fondazione Pistoletto, showing how new balanced forms of production, design and sharing can be explored through a careful choice of materials and of sustainable supply chains. Three key concepts underpin the circularity of sustainable fashion and therefore this project: Reduce - reducing the consumption of raw materials, Reuse - reuse of raw materials, Recycling - regeneration.

The project CirculART is conceived and developed in collaboration between Fashion B.E.S.T. and UNIDEE Residency Programs, and led by the Foundation's team of curators.

Fashion B.E.S.T. - Better Ethical Sustainable Think-Tank, Cittadellarte - Fondazione Pistoletto’ sustainable fashion office, was created by artist Michelangelo Pistoletto and Franca Sozzani. Since 2009, B.E.S.T. has been working on the development of sustainability in the textile sector, to lead to a contamination between art, which assumes social responsibility, and the world of fashion, which is looking to define a new ethical and sustainable model.

CirculART proposes a new link between fashion and art, engaging both in a conscious and innovative combination of sustainability, sensitivity, beauty and union. The project links territory and production factories, bringing together actors from the different sectors making up the textile supply chain that work on the basis of a circular economy with companies that have chosen to embrace the ideal of sustainability and develop an innovative business model.

The protagonists of this year’s edition are two international artists and two international fashion designers, selected through an open call launched by Cittadellarte: Augustina Bottoni, Lucia Chain, Huge Sillytoe and Rebecca Sforzani, young talents called upon to create a work with fabrics produced by partner companies, focusing on dialogue and on the enhancement of the textile industry production chain.

In early 2023, the programme will give the four selected artists the opportunity to visit and work actively with the partner companies that have joined the initiative.
These are: Achille Pinto S.p.a, manufacturer of textiles and textile accessories for the main international fashion brands; Albini Group, Europe's largest manufacturer of cotton fabrics for shirts; Erica Industria Tessile, a leading company in the creation of textile prints, original and customised designs; Filatura Astro, eco-sustainable regenerated yarns; G2B S.r.l., a chemical and environmental analysis laboratory working with vertical cultivation from which indigo is obtained; Lampo by Ditta Giovanni Lanfranchi S.p.A., leader in the creation and production of zips for fashion; Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti, a Biella-based weaver for haute couture; Lenzing, world leader in the production of fabrics made from fibres derived from renewable wood raw material; Milior, a producer of high quality fabrics; Officina +39 – Chemistry plus creativity, a chemical company with thirty years' experience dedicated to research and chemical application in textiles; Tessuti di Sondrio, a factory inspired by the century-old local textile tradition of processing cotton, linen, hemp and wool; Tintoria Emiliana, garment-dyed production and sustainable practices; Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, a manufacturer of 100% Made in Italy fine combed and carded yarns.