From the Sector

• Order intake of around CHF 300 million received in the month of April 2021
• Order intake in the first half of 2021 expected to be around CHF 800 million
• Start of implementation of the Rieter CAMPUS project in Winterthur

In the month of April 2021, Rieter received orders of around CHF 300 million. The order intake in April was broadly based internationally with the main focus on Turkey, Uzbekistan and India.

In addition to the regional development of the market, Rieter also attributes the business performance to a catch-up effect due to the low propensity to invest in 2019/2020.

As a result, Rieter expects an order intake of around CHF 800 million in the first half of 2021.

As already announced, Rieter anticipates that sales in the first half of 2021 will be below the break-even point. Rieter expects an operating profit for the full year 2021. On July 15, 2021 Rieter will give an updated outlook for 2021 in connection with the semi-annual results, taking into consideration the ongoing challenges resulting from the COVID-19 pandemic.

The Rieter Board of Directors has approved the implementation of the CAMPUS project. The Rieter CAMPUS comprises a customer and technology center as well as an administration building at the Winterthur location. It will make an important contribution to the implementation of the innovation strategy and to the enhancement of Rieter’s technology leadership position.

• Checkpoint becomes the first RFID label manufacturer to achieve ARC certification with NXP’s UCODE 9 IC

Checkpoint  Systems,  a  vertically  integrated  supplier  of RFID  solutions  for  retail,  has again  demonstrated  its  commitment  to  innovation  by becoming the first manufacturer to have an RFID inlay featuring the new NXP UCODE 9 IC certified by Auburn University’s ARC Laboratory.

The  announcement  follows  news  that  Checkpoint  recently  became  the  first  company  to achieve ARC-certification for its Impinj M700-based inlays. By setting another new standard for the  industry,  Checkpoint  are  enabling  retailers  around the  world to  further  improve  their inventory visibility, reduce costs, improve performance and increase their overall profitability.

Delivering enhanced performance
Delivering the same ARC certifications as the Vortex U8 (Spec G, K and Q), the new Vortex U9 goes one step further by meeting the requirements of Spec N.

All aspects of the retail supply chain benefit from the increased read and write sensitivity of the  Vortex  U9.    The  11%  increase  in  read  distance,  decreases the time  for  inventory  cycle counts in both sparse or densely populated environments.  It also increases the compatibility of  smaller  RFID  labels with  RFID  Point  of  Exit  (PoE)  or  loss  prevention systems.  The  write sensitivity is significantly improved which is beneficial when encoding labels in densely packed cartons during source tagging and bulk encoding operations.

Finally,  the  new  Vortex  U9  will  provide  retailers  with  added  value  when  it  comes  to sustainability. NXP’s UCODE 9 RFID IC is 18% smaller than its predecessor, reducing the carbon footprint on an individual IC basis.

Scott Mitchell-Harris, Group Vice President Checkpoint Systems, commented:  “The investment Checkpoint has made over the past few years in our manufacturing facilities is evident. We have one of the most talented development teams who are continually seeking out the latest technology with new ideas to deliver market leading label designs.”

Checkpoint’s Vortex range delivers high read rate performance in semi-automated  physical inventory control and RFID as EAS. Vortex is ISO18000-6C compliant and can be encoded and printed tocarry EPC data in several formats -RFID EPC global protocol, printed bar code and human readable text.

• Riri’s SS 2022 collection explores the mind of the future.
• Bright colors, vintage themes as well as timeless designs and attention to detail, combined with concepts that highlight history and processes.

Riri Group’s gaze looks to the future once more, offering a line of accessories where creativity meets cutting-edge technology. This is the scenario spawning the new SS 2022 collection; a range of innovative proposals each representing a different emotional response to the pandemic, an attempt to interpret the emotions, needs and desires of consumers in the coming years.

The Italian-Swiss group, that for almost a century has committed to creating zips and buttons for the world’s most important fashion brands, doubles down on its forward-looking vision. The result is SS 2022 collection, featuring three different aspirational paths to read into the emerging feelings of the “new normal” that is our time and that may characterize the near future.

REJOICE
Inspired by sensations of euphoria and breaking free from melancholy through evasion and exuberance, Rejoice is the line that sees in positivity and joy of re-living the answer to the months of pandemic and negativity. The optimism that is to come takes the form of a creative and extrovert style, even when it comes to accessories. The inspiration, a triumph of bright colors and timeless styles, comes straight from the streets of Boca, one of Buenos Aires’ most popular neighborhoods thanks to its combination of colors and creative scene. Thus, the Eloxal rio zip is presented once again: with its aluminum chain and colored teeth, matched with a multi-color effect puller. In the range, we can also find the Nylon zip, featuring changing colors matched with buttons that echo their color variations, or the Filmetal 14 zip, big and with eye-catching writings, embossed on the tape.

REBIRTH
Going back to the future, in a more respectful and responsible way, through a rebirth that comes to be thanks to a closer relationship with nature. In this line history and processes through which the product is made are pivotal to tell a new way to approach the world. The range comprises zips and buttons developed with natural material and processed manually. A return to the basics as well as the constant research to reduce resources use respecting the planet are foundation of this line. Part of the Rebirth line are the copper jeans buttons, with a special water-based paint finishing, transparent and protective, or the hemp-derived bio-plastic eyelets, as well as the galalite buttons, a particular bio-degradable plastic, derived from processed milk proteins. A major innovation are our tapes entirely made of recycled polyester, evidence of the commitment by Riri Group to reuse resources.

TIMELESS
Timeless elegance, essential luxury mixed with the highest quality standards for top-of-therange products. Design, materials and colors featuring in this line break away from seasonal trends to become timeless must-haves, essential yet elegant. Every piece is cared for in every detail, created specifically to leave a lasting mark. Buttons, chains and pullers are either made of gold and silver, or they feature the clean and elegant tone of stainless steel. Among the zips, stand out Metal and Simmetrical with luxury finishings, whilst tapes are made with refined materials, such as leather and satin. Essential yet researched, this range comes with square and oval cuts, with geometry being functional and complementary to a timeless elegance.

Sappi is expanding its product range for corrugated board applications with Fusion Nature Plus.

With Fusion Nature Plus, Sappi is launching an uncoated, fully bleached and completely recyclable virgin fibre liner. The company provides a unique variety of packaging and speciality papers. The specialist in paper-based solutions also offers a wide range of products in relation to labels. Fusion Nature Plus offers excellent printing results in flexographic, digital and offset printing processes.

• Ultra-bright, uncoated virgin fibre paper with excellent printing results
• Ideal for attractive corrugated board as well as premium shopping bags
• Can be used as topliner, liner or fluting
• Available in grammages of 80 to 130 g/m²

The virgin fibre liner is based on the concept of the successful Fusion Topliner. In contrast to the double-coated Fusion Topliner, Fusion Nature Plus has a natural, uncoated surface with a more tactile feel, in response to the growing market appetite for this type of product. The liner is also provided in very low grammages.

Fusion Nature Plus enhances brand appearance

Brand owners, corrugated board processors, manufacturers of display cartons and folding cartons as well as designers all benefit from the versatility of the new Fusion Nature Plus. In contrast to conventional uncoated liner papers, the material offers high brightness, brilliant colour reproduction and consistently high quality. These features make the product the perfect choice for corrugated board or solid board packaging, where a very bright appearance is needed for topliners, inner liners and corrugating applications. Whether used as an inlay in cosmetics or confectionery packaging, or as a liner in shipping packaging to ensure an exceptional unboxing experience, Fusion Nature Plus is called upon wherever an enhanced appearance is desired.

Another area of application is paper carrier bags, where uncoated paper qualities are often preferred.

Fusion Nature Plus is ideally suited to a range of printing processes: the product achieves outstanding results in flexographic and offset printing. The pre-treated surface and high brightness offer clear advantages with regard to primer requirements and print behaviour, especially for inkjet-based digital printing. Bernd Gelder, Head of Sales Containerboard at Sappi Europe: ‘With its exceptional print quality and impressive colour reproduction, Fusion Nature Plus particularly appeals to packaging customers who value a natural look and feel in paper. The response from the market, in which packaging based on corrugated board still needs to take on a bigger role, is enormous, of course, with the result that we have succeeded in completing a number of interesting end applications and customer projects with Fusion Nature Plus shortly after market launch.’

Virgin fibre vital for recycling

In continuous recycling use, fiber that has already been recycled is subject to a progressive weakening of quality, resulting in a weakness in the products that incorporate them, but also, crucially, over time they will ultimately degrade to a point where they become unrecoverable. As a result, a certain amount of virgin fibre needs to be introduced into the cycle on a regular basis. Without continuous virgin fibre contribution to the pulp cycle, recycled producers will in the end run out of raw material. The premium virgin fibre liner Fusion Nature Plus from Sappi plays an important role here in maintaining the quality of the recycling substrate.

Thanks to the central location of Sappi’s production site in Ehingen, Fusion Nature Plus can be supplied quickly throughout Europe. The shorter transportation distances reduce transport related fossil emissions and protect the environment. The shorter production cycles in turn ensure high availability and rapid supply.

Fusion Nature Plus is currently available in six grammages from 80 to 130 g/m² in both sheet and roll form. Sappi can also provide Fusion Nature Plus with FSC or PEFC certificates on request.

SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, a subsidiary of the Rieter Group, has appointed Per Olofsson as Managing Director and member of the SSM Group’s management team effective April 1, 2021.

Mr. Olofsson is a Swedish citizen and holds a Master of Science Degree in Supply Chain and Operations Management from the University of Liverpool, United Kingdom, and an Executive MBA from the International Institute for Management Development (IMD) in Lausanne, Switzerland.

Per Oloffson joined the Rieter Group in 2013 and is an experienced operations manager with a proven management track record at both local and global level.

SUPREME GREEN COTTON® has been chosen by the Italian brand Diesel for the ‘Green Label’, ‘NightCrush’ and ‘Malign’ jersey T-shirts. From cotton seed to fiber, yarn production, fabric and final garments, the full supply chain is not just transparent but located in a very focused area 100% in Greece.
 
SUPREME GREEN COTTON® is the premium quality smart yarn collection by Varvaressos S.A. European Spinning Mills. The Greek yarn manufacturer has developed an innovative and socially responsible system from the seed to the garment that supports farmers and businesses at the foothills of Mount Olympus.
 
SUPREME GREEN COTTON® uses a customized satellite-powered drip irrigation system in the fields that allows saving up to 40% of water. Water usage is one of the pressing issues in cotton production. Thanks to the advanced drip irrigation system, plants are watered and fed without wasting a single drop. Thanks to a custom-developed app connected via satellite and meteorological stations in selected cotton fields, farmers can monitor the fields in real time. The IoT – Internet of Things system warns them to take action to ensure plants to flourish healthily and high a higher yield in a sustainable way.
 
The smart yarns are Made in Greece and have been certified by MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® which assures transparency and traceability, moreover the company has also obtained the STeP by OEKO-TEX®.

Flocus™ offers a range of kapok textile materials such as fibers, yarns, textiles and nonwovens, which provide the textile industry with a naturally sustainable and regenerative alternative which has not been available before.

Kapok is a natural fiber, traditionally used by local population for fillings but with no large scale applications until Flocus™ founding. Beside kapok several interesting properties, there were some limits that had been inhibiting the possibility to use it at a larger scale and build a supply chain on textile products based on it: kapok fibers are short stapled ones (2-4 cm length), very light and empty inside: for this reason they incorporate air and made the spinning attempts unsuccessful.

Flocus™ pioneers sustainable and regenerative textile solutions based on kapok fiber, and it is creating a responsible supply chain for kapok.

With one of the most advanced technologies in the market, FLOCUS™ can spin the highest kapok percentage, offer yarns in the thinnest counts with the possibility of low minimum order quantity per blend.

Flocus™ Kapok offers products which can reduce the presence of animal and synthetic products in the market, utilizing a completely natural alternative without abandoning functionality.

The Flocus™ team works in partnership with companies who want to investigate the use of the eco-responsible fibers and is testing the wide range of applications of Flocus™ kapok stuffing, yarns, fabrics, nonwovens for thermo and sound insulation, waddings, foam replacement, medical, automotive and technical uses and others.

The dates are set: IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living is welcoming exhibitor registration for its 2021 edition, to be held from 18 – 20 October 2021 in the South Halls of Tokyo Big Sight. The dedicated fair for interior design is once again set to attract not only retail buyers but also visitors from design and architecture offices, commercial facilities, and other contract businesses. The 2019 edition welcomed 352 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions as well as 16,016 visitors from 34 countries and regions, receiving much positive feedback for its increased focus on contract business.
 
IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living 2019
Returning after a hiatus in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic, IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living will once again create opportunities for exhibitors to meet new clients and expand their businesses. Messe Frankfurt Japan Ltd is working to put all of the appropriate safety and hygiene measures in place to protect participants during the fair period, and prevent the spread of COVID-19.
 
New ETHICAL zone added to satisfy consumer demand
A newly introduced ETHICAL zone will help industry players explore the themes of sustainability and ecology, which are continuing to gain traction in the interior design market. The zone focuses on environmental protection, up-cycling, fair trade, products that support people with disabilities, organic products, local production for local consumption, and more. Furniture production from recycled forest materials will also be a focus of the zone, which will be promoted in the run up to the fair through sector-specific media channels. This will include dedicated promotional activities targeting ethically driven retailers and restaurants.
 
A variety of booth sizes to accommodate exhibitors’ needs
In response to requests from exhibitors who showcase smaller items, a new booth size has been added for 2021. Measuring 6.3 sqm (width 3m x depth 2.1m), the new booth option is one size smaller than the existing 9 sqm booth, adding more choice for exhibitors
 
Dedicated lifestyle themed zones
Proving popular amongst trade buyers during previous editions, ‘CREATIVE RESOURCE’ is a zone devoted to innovative interior materials, as well as parts and services for interior design and home remodelling. Products featured at the zone include wallpaper, floor coverings, paints and related materials. First introduced in 2012, the zone has grown in stature as the destination for the likes of manufacturers, architects, designers and developers to find inspiration.
 
The fair’s zoning encompasses a variety of different product categories and themes. This not only simplifies the sourcing process for trade buyers, but it also maximises business exposure for exhibitors. Day-to-day lifestyle products – both stylish and functional – will be displayed in the ‘HOME’, ‘ACCENT’ and ‘EVERYDAY’ zones with a focus on living spaces, accessories and household items respectively.
 
Moreover, catering to the world of convenience and home cuisine, an array of pragmatically-designed packaged food will be presented at 'FOODIST', while innovative dining items will be gathered at the ‘KITCHEN LIFE’ zone.
 
Highlighting high quality local craftsmanship, designs from Japanese artisanal artists with a modern touch will be located in the ‘JAPAN STYLE’ zone. The latest designs from highly acclaimed international brands will be displayed too, in the ‘MOVEMENT’ area, while work from up-and-coming young designers will appear at the ‘TALENTS’ and ‘NEXT’ zones.
 
About IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living
IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living is held annually in fall and is the sister fair of Interior Lifestyle Tokyo held in spring, which is based on Ambiente, Messe Frankfurt’s largest and most important international consumer goods fair, and Heimtextil, the biggest international home and contract textiles fair. With the synergetic effects of these leading global trade fairs in the high-end interior market, and with Messe Frankfurt’s global network, IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living is a key platform for professionals, buyers, architects and those engaged in domestic and international contract business.

• Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited and Founder of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) has won Sustainable Fashion Champion at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards 2021, which took place virtually on 10 March.

On receiving the award, Mostafiz said he wants to be a game-changer in the apparel industry, leading by example to inspire others to behave responsibly and ethically.

He also dedicated the award to H&M which, he explained, supported his business, Denim Expert, through the pandemic by continuing to place orders He said the loyal support of the Swedish fashion giant almost certainly helped save the livelihoods of 2000 workers at his factory and their 10000 family members. “That’s true sustainability leadership,” he said.

The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards recognise steps being made in reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact and creating fairer working conditions across the supply chain.
Judged by an independent panel of sustainability and fashion retail experts, the awards shine a spotlight on best practice within the global fashion industry.

Covid-19 has presented unforeseen challenges for fashion retailers and brands, but it has also given us all an opportunity to build back better. Forward-thinking fashion businesses know change is not optional, and are embracing their responsibilities and ability to make a difference.

Mostafiz Uddin has been recognised as the Sustainable Fashion Champion 2021 for setting examples in promoting sustainability during the Covid-19 pandemic which broke out worldwide in March last year.
Jill Geoghegan, Acting Editor of Drapers, said: “Despite the challenges thrown up by the Coronavirus pandemic, fashion brands and retailers increasingly recognise that sustainability is a business imperative.”  
“Many businesses continued to invest in cleaning up their supply chains and introducing new models of working, despite the unprecedented trading conditions.

“The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards highlight and celebrate these advancements, paving the way for a more responsible future for the industry.” Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited Mostafiz Uddin said: “In the pandemic, my factory Denim Expert Limited kept true to its commitment towards sustainability, despite an extremely difficult trading landscape.

“During the pandemic, I was vocal about the issue of buyer-supplier relationships and, in speaking out, I wanted to champion the cause of suppliers all over the world. Too often suppliers in garment supply chains do not have a voice because they fear that by speaking out, they will be treated unfavourably by brands.

“This was, of course, a risk on my own part but I like to think I stood up for what I think is right and ultimately, I believe progressive brands understood I was coming from a good place. Like them, all I want to see is a fair, ethical and sustainable industry where brands and retailers work in an environment of collaboration, not conflict.”

Mostafiz also had some special praise for H&M. He said: “It would have not been possible for me to support my workers during the pandemic, had my factory not received help from H&M during the unprecedented time. While Denim Expert suffered from huge orders cancellation and orders hold, H&M supported us by placing orders in the pandemic that saved thousands of lives and livelihoods. Therefore, I would like to dedicate this Award to H&M and its CEO Helena Helmersson.”

The judges of Drapers Sustainable Fashion Champion Award 2021 have been Kerry Bannigan, Founder, Conscious Fashion Campaign; Sarah Ditty, Global Policy Director, Fashion Revolution; Miriam Lahage, Founder, Aequip; Samata Pattinson, CEO, Red Carpet Green Dress; Caroline Rush, Chief Executive Officer, British Fashion Council; Lucy Shea, Group CEO, Futerra; Jane Shepherdson, Chairman, My Wardrobe HQ; and Dilys Williams, Director, Centre for Sustainable Fashion.

• Major Monforts denim customers continue to pioneer new initiatives that are pushing the boundaries of sustainable production.

Recycling their cotton waste has become one way these companies can do more with less, and at the recent Kingpins24 Flash online event, Sedef Uncu Aki, director of Orta, headquartered in Istanbul, Turkey, announced a new partnership with leading recycling operation Gama Recycle.

Traceable
“Through this local partnership we will supply the waste from our spinning mills and return around 3,000 tons of premium quality cotton back to them,” she said. “We have established a truly controlled and traceable system and partnering with a domestic recycling centre is important because a lot the carbon emissions associated with recycling usually come from transportation.”

Orta’s ZeroMax range meanwhile uses no cotton at all, being based on Lenzing’s Tencel cellulosic fibre, while the company’s involvement in denim production for a recent launch by Levi Strauss, of jeans made with organic cotton and Circulose – a breakthrough material developed by re:newcell of Sweden and partners – was hailed as a further step forward.

To make Circulose, re:newcell repurposes discarded cotton textiles, such as worn-out denim jeans, through a process akin to recycling paper. The incoming waste fabrics are broken down using water. The colour is then stripped from these materials using an eco-friendly bleach and after any synthetic fibres are removed from the mix, the slurry-like mixture is dried and the excess water is extracted, leaving behind a sheet of Circulose. This sheet is then made into viscose fibre which is combined with cotton and woven into new fabrics.

Circular Park
Omer Ahmed, CEO of Artistic Milliners also announced plans for his company’s new 70,000 square-foot Circular Park in Karachi, Pakistan, at Kingpins24 Flash.

Once complete, this will add three million square metres of additional denim capacity a month to the company’s production and take its total recycled output to a monthly five million metres.
Ahmed observed that there is currently a lack of sustainable fibres that are readily available to use for denim production at scale.

“Organic cotton is too expensive, and in my opinion always will be,” he said. “Cottonised hemp is also not cheap and it’s hard to mix with cotton, while the new regenerated cellulose fibres that are now emerging are promising, but currently in short supply. Recycled polyester is meanwhile still based on petroleum resources which we want to move away from. As a consequence, there are only a few other options for us as a manufacturer and this new project will help us minimise our own waste while significantly lowering our carbon footprint.”

Other Monforts denim customers to introduce cotton fibre recycling operations at their plants recently include AGI Denim, Bossa and Soorty.

Vertical savings
Refresh is the name of the latest collection from AGI Denim – reflecting the company’s significant reduction in water consumption.

The company has just opened new fibre spinning and denim mills at its complex in Karachi, Pakistan.

“Over the years we’ve gone through a series of backward integration steps to become fully vertical,” said AGI Denim executive director Ahmed Javed, at Kingpins24 Flash. “In our latest expansion, we revisited every step of the production processes in order to make resource savings.”

Innovations have included the installation of proprietary robotics for garment finishing, but the most attention has been paid to water savings.

“Pakistan is one of the largest cotton-producing companies in the world and we’re fortunate that the type of cotton that is grown here is well suited to denim production and also helps us lower our carbon footprint, with everything done in close proximity,” Javed said. “In the lifecycle of a pair of denim jeans, however, cotton fibre production contributes 68% of water consumption. While we cannot control how much water cotton needs for it to grow, we can rethink the way we use it in our factory.”

Refresh-branded denims are washed from 100% recycled water as a result of the company’s new wastewater treatment plant, which puts production wastewater through a series of steps beginning with equalisation, followed by aeration and concluding with sedimentation. The water travels through filtration and ultrafiltration systems before being subjected to an activated carbon system and finally a reverse osmosis system to reduce any dissolved salts.

AGI now recycles 4.4 million gallons of water each month – enough to wash a million pairs of jeans.

Sustainable
Monforts has a leading position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Thermex continuous dyeing systems, Montex stenter dryers and other lines for resource-efficient and economical processing.

“Our denim partners are constantly setting themselves new goals in respect of sustainable production – and more importantly, achieving them,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “We work closely with them with the aim of constantly optimising processing parameters and achieving further savings in energy, water and raw materials throughout the dyeing and finishing stages of production.”

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing. The CYD system integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre in Mönchengladbach, Germany.”