From the Sector

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), with support from Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) and the H&M Foundation, has launched the Upstream Circularity Playbook, now available in six languages. This comprehensive resource draws on extensive case studies across multiple countries to provide a globally accessible, step-by-step guide specifically tailored for garment manufacturing regions. Designed to help stakeholders scale circular business models by valorising post-industrial textile waste, the Playbook equips manufacturing hubs with tools needed to drive sustainable change.

With over 520 global regulations now encouraging circularity and regionalisation in sourcing and design, the Playbook serves as a critical tool for establishing and scaling upstream circular ecosystems. It equips manufacturers, brands, policymakers, and investors with actionable strategies to implement circular fashion solutions in core manufacturing regions. With significant volumes of post-industrial textile waste yet to be properly harnessed, its consistency and high quality present a pivotal opportunity for scaling textile-to-textile recycling technologies in manufacturing regions. This can pave the way for recycling of post-use textiles and clothing. In Bangladesh alone, embracing textile recycling could unlock USD 4 to 5 billion annually through the export of recycled products, however, limited recycling capacity underscores a critical gap in industrial waste management.

Empowering Circularity in Manufacturing Countries
The Upstream Circularity Playbook draws on over 20 case studies from diverse regions such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, Indonesia, and Vietnam, providing an international and regional perspective that fosters knowledge sharing across the fashion industry. The examples showcase successful collaborations between brands, manufacturers, recyclers, and textile waste collectors, offering a replicable model for scaling circular solutions in various global contexts. Collaboration across the entire value chain is critical for unlocking the full potential of circularity. The Upstream Circularity Playbook provides a roadmap for stakeholders to work together in building a just and scalable circular fashion system.

A Constructive Framework for Action
The Playbook offers a pragmatic, step-by-step framework for building the necessary infrastructure to scale circularity in garment manufacturing countries. It provides essential tools for:

• Segregating textile waste at the factory level to prevent contamination and enhance recycling quality.
• Leveraging digital traceability platforms to track waste flows and align with recycler requirements.
• Collecting, aggregating, and sorting textile waste to ensure it is properly prepared and delivered to recyclers.
• Matching textile waste to the best use case by selecting the most suitable recycling technologies to ensure high-quality material recovery.
• Designing for circularity by incorporating recycled materials into new products, contributing to the creation of a closed-loop system.

Harnessing the Opportunity
This emphasis on upstream circularity presents an immediate opportunity to valorise post-industrial waste, laying the groundwork for scaling textile-to-textile recycling and ultimately reducing dependency on virgin resources as they are gradually replaced by recycled materials. GFA previously noted in the Scaling Circularity Report that existing recycling technologies have the potential to drive up to 80% circularity in the fashion industry if fully scaled. Additionally, the Pre-Feasibility Report highlights that, in the case of Bangladesh, recycling textile waste could reduce cotton imports by 20%, saving nearly $750 million USD annually.  The Upstream Circularity Playbook therefore builds on this research by providing an actionable framework for the industry to harness such opportunities.

With contributions from over 20 experts and organisations, the Playbook is designed to spur action on a global scale. It provides a blueprint for fostering economic, environmental, and social benefits in garment manufacturing regions and emphasises the need for collaboration across the value chain to achieve a scalable solution for textile-to-textile recycling.

The Upstream Circularity Playbook is openly accessible and available in six languages, inviting stakeholders worldwide to provide feedback and join the conversation.

Last week, the White House announced that President Joe Biden would not implement a tariff rate quota on imports of fine-denier polyester staple fiber (PSF) in response to a section 201 safeguard case filed by U.S.-based fiber producers.

The President announced an import quota only on imports of fine-denier PSF under the temporary importation under bond (TIB) program, which is predominately used in woven textiles and apparel and is not expected to impact nonwovens.

President Biden opted not to implement a tariff rate quote or other measures that were recommended by the U.S. International Trade Commission citing that other industries, including nonwoven manufacturers, would be negatively impacted by such actions, President Biden’s proclamation stated that:

“While the USITC Commissioners recommended that I impose a tariff-rate quota on fine denier PSF imports, I have determined not to do so…[t]herefore, I have decided to tailor this safeguard remedy to TIB entries of fine denier PSF. Furthermore, I have determined not to impose a tariff-rate quota on imports of fine denier PSF in the interest of balancing the competing interests of domestic fine denier PSF manufacturers and the impact of the safeguard remedy on downstream United States producers, including manufacturers of textiles, defense products, and consumer products, that rely on fine denier PSF.”

This decision comes after several U.S.-based nonwovens producers commented to the White House Trade Policy Staff Committee and the USITC that the nonwovens industry would be harmed by actions that would raise the costs of fine-denier PSF. INDA submitted comments outlining the concerns of many nonwovens producers. Government affairs director Wes Fisher testified before the Trade Policy Staff Committee at the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative hearing on September 30th.

ARISE IIP, the pan-African developer and operator of world-class industrial parks, has partnered with African Export-Import Bank (Afreximbank) and Rieter, the supplier of systems for manufacturing yarn from staple fibers in spinning mills. The unprecedented partnership will spearhead the “Africa Textile Renaissance Plan” – a transformative initiative aimed at revitalizing the continent’s textile sector. This ambitious project will leverage ARISE’s extensive network of industrial parks to support a new era of textile manufacturing in Africa.

In order to facilitate the implementation of the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan, Afreximbank, Arise IIP and Rieter AG signed a framework agreement on October 14, 2024. The framework agreement outlines the collaboration to establish 500 000 metric tons of African cotton transformation capacity over the next three to five years, supported by USD 5 billion in financing.

The Africa Textile Renaissance Plan aims to achieve the following key objectives:

• establish 500 000 metric tons of African cotton transformation capacity over the next three to five years, with potential expansion of an additional 500 000 metric tons,
• localize machine repair expertise in Africa,
• create up to 500 000 jobs,
• reduce Africa’s annual textile imports,
• boost exports to the US under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), focusing on full value addition within the continent and to export to the rest of the world and
• develop a strong financing structure to support capacity building.

Countries benefiting from the program will be selected based on criteria such as power and gas availability, and textile parks with standard infrastructure or equity contribution. Training centers will be established in selected countries to develop and improve skill levels.

The partnership aims to secure financing of textile projects, streamlining the process through:

• standardized loan documentation and security packages,
• expedited two-month application process and
• standardized business plan templates.

To foster long-term growth, Rieter has committed to gradually establishing a manufacturing presence in Africa subject to commercial viability, including the:

• setup of a repair and maintenance facility in ARISE’s industrial park in Benin,
• establishment of spare parts warehousing and
• phased introduction of machine assembly operations.

Gagan Gupta, CEO and Founder of ARISE IIP expressed his enthusiasm for the project: “The Africa Textile Renaissance Plan represents a significant milestone in the continent’s industrial development. I’m convinced that this initiative will not only boost local manufacturing and create thousands of jobs but also position Africa as a global leader in sustainable textile production.”

Prof. Benedict Oramah, President and Chairman of the Board of Directors of Afreximbank, stated that the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan is a “game-changer” for African trade. He remarked: “By transforming Africa’s cotton into high-value textile products, we are not only driving industrialization but also reducing dependence on imports while building a competitive export base. This partnership complements our ongoing efforts, such as the transformative change we are spearheading in Africa’s Cotton-4 plus (C4+) countries, alongside other partners. It underscores Afreximbank’s unwavering commitment to industrialization and export development.”

Thomas Oetterli, CEO Rieter Group, said: “We are thrilled to support this important initiative with our commitment, expertise and consulting knowledge. We are convinced that the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan marks an important starting point for the future development of the textile industry in Africa.”

The ZEBRA (Zero wastE Blade ReseArch) project marks a significant leap forward in the recycling and circular economy for wind turbine blades. This collaborative effort demonstrates a breakthrough in the complete recycling of thermoplastic blades achieving significant environmental and economic benefits.

The ZEBRA project is a unique partnership led by the French Institute for Technological Research, IRT Jules Verne. Joining forces are industry leaders Arkema (resin supplier), Owens Corning (glass fiber supplier), LM Wind Power (blade manufacturer), SUEZ (dismantling and waste processing), CANOE R&D center (recycling technology), and ENGIE (life cycle analysis).

Each company played a crucial role in the development of the closed-loop recycling process:

• Arkema developed and validated the generation of recycled Elium® monomer through thermolysis, and, together with its subsidiary Bostik, an innovative adhesive for the blade assembly that is recycled together with Elium® paving the way for industrial-scale implementation.
• Owens Corning successfully recovered glass fiber at pilot scale, enabling its reintroduction into the production process for their Sustaina® product line.
• LM Wind Power manufactured two wind turbine blades with Arkema’s Elium® resin and Owens Corning’s Ultrablade® fabrics; one blade including a large structural element made with recycled Elium® resin.
• SUEZ provided cutting and grinding expertise for processing the blades.
• CANOE R&D center optimized recycling for production and carbon blade waste, additionally developing methods for repurposing waste streams through mechanical recycling.
• ENGIE conducted a comprehensive life cycle analysis demonstrating the environmental benefits of closed-loop ZEBRA blades and validated their economic viability.

A Sustainable Future for Wind Energy
The ZEBRA project successfully recycled Elium® resin and Ultrablade® fabrics from wind turbine blades and manufacturing waste, reformulating them back into usable materials. This closed-loop process addresses the growing challenge of end-of-life blade management within the wind energy industry.

• Recycled Elium® Monomer: Arkema achieved a yield of over 75% in the thermolysis process, paving the way for industrial-scale production of recycled resin.
• Recovered Glass Fiber: Owens Corning successfully retrieved glass fiber for remelting and reintegration into their Sustaina® product line.
• Life Cycle and Cost Analysis: ENGIE's study confirmed the significant environmental benefits and economic viability of ZEBRA blades when assuming a closed-loop recycling system from production to end-of-life.

ZEBRA blade using Elium® thermoplastic resin, Bostik’s highly compatible adhesive and Ultrablade® fabrics is bringing the best closed-loop recycling solution compared to traditional thermoset system. The operating cost and investments for recycling facility are significantly lowered. The CO2 emission linked to the recycling operations is reduced as well. All those results are making the closed-loop recycling solution of ZEBRA blades a viable option both on economic and environmental standpoints.

By demonstrating the feasibility of full wind turbine blade recycling, the ZEBRA project paves the way for a more sustainable future in the wind energy sector.

The Bangladesh Climate Action Forum 2024 was held at the Radisson Blu Water Garden Hotel on 10^th October 2024. Over 450 delegates from across the globe came together to foster dialogue, collaboration, and actionable strategies to advance Bangladesh's sustainability goals.
The Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) organized the forum as a pivotal platform uniting industry leaders, government officials, climate advocates, innovators, brands, development organizations, policymakers, and academics.

The theme of this year's Bangladesh Fashion: Driving Collective Climate Action highlighted the urgent need for sustainability within the fashion and apparel sector. The forum was significant as a catalyst for dialogue and collaboration among various stakeholders. Enhancing climate leadership and technical skills makes the forum crucial in propelling the nation toward a sustainable and resilient future.

In his opening remarks, Mostafiz Uddin, Founder & CEO of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, said:
“You care about the planet, you care about the country, and that is why all of you are here today. All of you are my inspiration. Climate action is no more a burden. For entrepreneurs, it's a business opportunity.”
“This is how I think. For all of you, you all love Bangladesh and want to eliminate poverty and disasters. Cheap labor is no longer a competitive advantage for Bangladesh. If we as entrepreneurs do not achieve the target set by our clients, we will not be able to succeed. To achieve the targets, the manufacturers need more shared responsibility, collaboration, and support.”

This year’s event featured keynote addresses, panel discussions, presentations, and workshops, where more than about 42 national and international experts shared insights on building a climate-resilient and carbon-neutral future through collaboration and innovation and the launch of two significant initiatives occurred during the event: the Soldiered 'Better Mills Initiative' and the OnetrueSOLar Fund. In addition, key presentations focused on Solar Rooftop System Optimization, Thermal Energy System Optimization, and Clean by Design: Lessons from Bangladesh and Impact. dedicated to enhancing sustainable practices in Bangladesh. Key partners supported the forum included the Apparel Impact Institute, Cascale, the European Union, GIZ, H&M, the Embassy of the Netherlands in Bangladesh, PDS Limited, and Target.

The event unites many contributors such as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs; Ministry of Power, Energy, and Mineral Resources; Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change; the Bangladesh Power Management Institute (BPMI), the Embassy of Denmark in Bangladesh, the Embassy of France in Bangladesh, the Embassy of Sweden in Bangladesh, ILO, Laudes Foundation, Oxfam in Bangladesh USAID Bangladesh.

Additionally, an engineering workshop showcased the expertise of industry-leading organizations, including Armstrong Fluid Technology, Forbes Marshall, Grant Thornton Bharat LLP, Illukkumbura Industrial Automation (Pvt) Ltd., and Jinko Solar. Over 300 engineers from apparel manufacturing units participated, gaining practical strategies to drive sustainability and decarbonization efforts within their organizations.

• Construction progress of world’s first PET enzymatic biorecycling plant in France: in line with production targets in 2026
• Commercial development: several Letters of Intent signed in view of licensing agreements
• Consolidated cash position of €120.7 million on 30 June 2024, plus €23.4 million in term deposits classified as financial assets. In addition, €42.5 million in public funding is expected.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, reported its operating and financial results for the first half of 2024.
The financial statements as of 30 June 2024 were approved by CARBIOS' Board of Directors.

The improvement in the financial results is mainly due to the increase in the Company’s financial income from interest on money market investments and term deposits of its cash and cash equivalents. Cash is systematically invested in risk-free, highly liquid money market products.

The decrease in financial expenses is mainly due to the capitalization of borrowing costs for the Longlaville plant.

The Group’s operating income (loss) shows a loss of €18.1 million at 30 June 2024 (€13.7 million loss at 30 June 2023).

The Group’s cash position stands at €120.7 million at 30 June 2024, plus
€23.4 million in term deposits classified as financial assets (for a total cash of €144 million after incorporation of term deposits) (€192 million at 31 December 2023).

On the basis of cashflow position to date, and the Company’s forecast operating expenses, CARBIOS considers to be able to cover its needs beyond the next 12 months. In addition, €42.5 million euros in public funding is expected.

In the first six months of 2024:

• The Group incurred €11,771 thousand in R&D expenses. The rise in R&D costs is mainly due to increased staff costs in line with the development of the Group’s various activities.
• The Group reported €1,952 thousand of Subsidies and other business income, which partially offset these R&D expenses. This item mainly consists of €1,379 thousand in tax credit for first-half 2024, of which €1,043 thousand relates to CARBIOS and €336 thousand to Carbiolice.

Finally, the Group continued to capitalize the Development expenses of its PET biorecycling project, booking a total €1,618 thousand in the first half of 2024, in accordance with IAS 38 capitalization criteria.

During this first period of the 2024 financial year, CARBIOS forged several international strategic partnerships with a view to deploying its licensing model for its technology and know-how in the field of PET plastic and textile enzymatic biorecycling.

The sixth edition of Texhibition Istanbul from 11 to 13 September 2024 will once again bring together all components of the textile industry and offer an overview of all product groups in the textile preliminary stage: from woven goods to knitwear, from yarns and denim to artificial leather and textile accessories.

Texhibition Istanbul Fabric and Textile Accessories Fair, organised by İTKİB Fuarcılık A.Ş. in cooperation with the Istanbul Textile Exporters Association (İTHİB), is following on from this year's March event with the upcoming edition.

Highlights:

• Over 500 exhibitors will be presenting a wide range of products such as woven fabrics, knitwear, denim, accessories, artificial leather and yarns covering 35,000 square metres
• Over 25,000 trade visitors are expected from more than 100 countries, including the European Union, Great Britain, the USA, North Africa and the Middle East
• Yarn Hall completes the range of the preliminary stage and has firmly established itself at Texhibition with 41 exhibitors
• BlueBlackDenim showcases Türkiye's leading 25 denim manufacturers and inspires with creative denim installations
• Texhibition Trend Areas: The trend areas are created by combination of quality and creative themes of fabrics, yarns, denims and accessory products from the participants
• Texhibition Art Events: digital art, accessoires and yarn installations

The Teijin Group companies Teijin Carbon America, Renegade Materials and Teijin Aramid will participate in CAMX. the largest, most comprehensive composites and advanced materials event in North America, in San Diego, USA. At the TEIJIN booth, visitors can explore innovative composite solutions and learn about the comprehensive technical support and provided services.

Teijin's diverse network of materials companies excels across various fields, ranging from high-performance carbon and aramid fibers to cutting-edge industrial textiles and revolutionary, cost-effective prepreg composite solutions. The shared commitment to quality, innovation, and environmental responsibility unites Teijin in their mission to deliver eco-friendly solutions across multiple industries and applications, including pressure vessels, aerospace, and both defense and commercial aircraft construction.

Teijin’s dedication to acquiring appropriate certifications for sustainable production and product development underscores the high level of commitment to lead in this field. In the past years, Teijin has continuously striven to minimize their carbon footprint and global impact, while also supporting customers on their own sustainability journeys. This year, Teijin Aramid achieved the EcoVadis Gold Medal recognition, placing the company in the top 5% of all companies across all industries globally and in the top 3% of all man-made fiber manufacturers worldwide.

Teijin Carbon has been awarded the ISCC Plus certification for its production in Germany and Japan and is on track to receive the same certification in the U.S. in the coming months. This accreditation allows the Teijin Carbon Group to prove to its customers sustainable products that contribute to a circular economy. Teijin Carbon is diligently working toward establishing new sustainability standards, promoting ecological innovations, and fostering partnerships for a more sustainable world.

Teijin is looking forward to engaging with customers and partners at CAMX 2024 in San Diego to discuss innovative ideas for the circular economy and recycling processes.

Teijin Carbon is one of the world's leading manufacturers of Tenax™ carbon fibers and carbon fiber-based materials, with production sites in the US, Germany, Japan and Vietnam. Teijin Carbon develops solutions for the aerospace, automotive, energy, electronics and sporting goods industries using high-performance technologies in an international environment. They work closely with their partners to create a fully circular value chain. The goal to make Teijin’s products net CO₂-free by 2050 aligns with the commitment to global society to find solutions and take action to combat it.

As a manufacturer of intermediate materials in the US, Renegade Materials is known for its product expertise and commitment to customer satisfaction. Renegade Materials distinguishes itself by merging cutting-edge materials science with advanced prepreg manufacturing and testing equipment, all meticulously controlled by rigorous quality management systems. Renegade is steadfast in their commitment to the development and largescale production of advanced, multi-functional materials that offer engineered solutions to the current composite design, usage and affordability initiatives in the aerospace industry.

Teijin Aramid is a global leader in high-performance aramid fiber, a subsidiary of the global Teijin Group. Specializing in high-performance aramid fibers, their materials are used in automotive and aerospace industries, ballistic protection and more.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued the following statement on news of the passing of Congressman Bill Pascrell (D-NJ).

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:

"The entire U.S. textile industry is mourning the loss of Congressman Bill Pascrell (D-NJ), a true leader and advocate for critical manufacturing policies aimed at bolstering the domestic supply chain and confronting ongoing threats from predatory trade practices.

We commend his significant contributions – not just to the U.S. domestic industry—but for American manufacturers and workers everywhere.

Rep. Pascrell had served as co-chair of the House Textile Caucus with Rep. Patrick McHenry (R-NC) since 2013 and was an ardent fighter for the U.S. textile industry and beyond.

In April, Congressman Pascrell championed a bill titled the Import Security and Fairness Act led by Rep. Earl Blumenauer (D-OR) that would exclude all Chinese imports from de minimis treatment, as highlighted in our blog post on a House Ways & Means markup.

He also penned an op-ed with Congressman McHenry highlighting the urgent need to drive investment and for onshoring and nearshoring textile and apparel production and to not weaken the critical U.S. and Central America  Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR)..

In addition, he co-sponsored legislation aimed at strengthening the American PPE supply chain which would expand the Berry Amendment to nearly all federal purchases of PPE.

As is evidenced above, Congressman Pascrell took on every policy battle in support of U.S. textiles and manufacturing in general as an unwavering supporter of maintaining and expanding a vital domestic manufacturing chain.  He worked closely with Rep. McHenry on critical textile issues to advance the cause for our domestic industry and its workforce.

He will be missed deeply by the industry and to all who knew him. We extend our gratitude to a manufacturing warrior and express our condolences to the entire Pascrell family and his staff team."

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the conference program for Hygienix™ 2024, November 18-21, The Renaissance Nashville Hotel, Nashville, TN. This year’s theme, “Driving Absorbent Hygiene Product Innovation: Consumer Desires, Market Dynamics & Sustainability Solutions,” will provide insights into the latest industry advancements.

Event highlights include:

Pre-conference webinars

• “Non-PFAS Hydrophobic Technology for Polypropylene Nonwovens”
• “Harnessing AI to Enhance Transparency and Trust in Brand Sustainability”

Workshops (Monday, November 18th)

• “Fundamentals of Absorption Systems and Opportunities in Adult Incontinence”
• “Innovations in Menstrual Care”
• “Baby and Infant Care Market Dynamics”

Networking opportunities

• Lunch Arounds with founders of successful hygiene start-ups
• Lightning Talks – supercharged elevator pitches
• Tabletop Exhibits of leading-edge absorbent hygiene suppliers
• Receptions – three extended networking events

Presentation Preview

• Absorbent Hygiene Insights, LLC, “Exploring the Performance of Polyaspartic Acid Superabsorbents in Hygiene Products”
• China National Household Paper Industry Association (CNHPIA), “Latest Development of Disposable Hygiene Products Industry in China”
• Glatfelter Industries (France) SAS, “Capitalizing on Capabilities to Support the Shifting Hygiene Industry”
• Gottlieb Binder GmbH & Co. KG, “Synergy of Components - Upstream Advancements Offering Downstream Sustainability Opportunities”
• Handas Consulting, “The Intersection of Nonwovens, Sustainability and the Environment: An African Perspective”
• INDA, “UN Plastics Treaty Update”
• INDA, “Business Not as Usual – The Impact of Reusables on the Absorbent Hygiene Market”
• Curt G. Joa, Inc., “Efficient Material Utilization in Hygienic Incontinence Articles”
• Joii Ltd., “Using Nonwoven Period Care Products and an AI-backed Mobile Application to Diagnose Heavy Menstrual Bleeding”
• Kuraray Europe GmbH, “Connecting Consumer Insights with AHPs: Designing Elastics & Naturality”
• The LYCRA Company, “From Farm to Fiber: Developing Elastane with 70% Renewable Content”
• MyMicrobiome GmbH, “The Menopausal Skin Microbiome – What Do You Need to Know?”
• Price Hanna Consultants LLC, “Shifting Sands in the Global Economy for Absorbent Hygiene Products”
• Principle Business Enterprises, “The High Cost of Adult Incontinence”
• RPK Consulting, “Shifting to Sustainability: Natural Fibers in Diapers and the Rise of Eco Brands”
• Texol S.R.L., “Functional Substrates to Preserve Skin Microbiome”
• SK Leaveo, “Comprehensive Sustainability in Hygiene Products: Exploring Biodegradable Alternatives and Circular Economy”
• SPARK Solutions For Growth, “There’s an App for That! The New World of Incontinence Tech”
• University of Pennsylvania, Division of Urology, “Latest Medical & Surgical Treatment for Incontinence”
• ZymoChem, “The Final Frontier: A Bio-Based Source for Super Absorbents”

Hygienix Innovation Award™
A highlight of the event, the Hygienix Innovation Award™ will feature presentations from three finalists on Tuesday, November 19th. The winner, to be announced on Thursday, November 21st, will be recognized for their innovative contributions to absorbent hygiene products. Nominations are open until September 16th, 2024. Last year’s winner, Sequel Spiral™ Tampon, received FDA clearance in August 2023 and is expected to be widely available in 2024.