From the Sector

Stretching Circularity is a collaborative project initiated by Fashion for Good dedicated to accelerating the adoption of lower-impact elastane alternatives that are compatible with circular textile systems. By validating bio-based and recycled elastane solutions through pilot-scale testing and demonstrator garments, the initiative aims to remove one of the most significant technical barriers to a circular textile economy.

Present in approximately 80% of all clothing, elastane is a material added in varying concentrations (typically from 1–5% by weight in cotton or wool garments to up to 20% in polyester or polyamide garments) to provide stretch and comfort. This fossil-based material creates two critical sustainability challenges:

• First, it contributes to carbon emissions and non-renewable resource consumption across the industry. 
• Second (and more critically for circularity), even minimal concentrations of elastane act as a “contaminant” in textile recycling feedstocks, compromising fibre-to-fibre recycling of high-volume fibres like polyester and cotton. This effectively blocks circularity for the vast majority of clothing, leaving the industry with limited options beyond downcycling or landfill.

Stretching Circularity is a project initiated by Fashion for Good which tackles this challenge through two key workstreams. One workstream focuses on testing next-generation elastane materials made from alternative inputs, including bio-based materials and other feedstocks. This phase includes the creation of “demonstrator” garments, specifically a technical t-shirt (with 10% elastane) and a non-technical t-shirt (with 2% elastane). The other focuses on testing regenerated elastane made through emerging recycling innovations. Both workstreams follow a pilot-scale validation approach to generate comparable data on performance, impact, economical feasibility and scalability.

Driving this work is a powerful coalition of industry stakeholders representing the entire value chain. The consortium includes Fashion for Good partners Levi Strauss & Co (Beyond Yoga), On, Paradise Textiles, Positive Materials, and Reformation, with Ralph Lauren Corporation as an Advisor. Supported by ecosystem experts like Materiom and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the group will support knowledge sharing across the consortium to identify gaps and generate comparative data to de-risk the adoption of these circular solutions for the wider industry. Stretching Circularity operates under a structured due diligence and validation framework to assess if alternative materials are not just conceptually sound but also meet the performance standards of conventional elastane. 

“Lower-impact elastane solutions exist, but they lack the pilot-scale validation brands need to scale them confidently,” Katrin Ley, Fashion for Good Managing Director. “This initiative seeks to provide that missing data, turning a well-known recycling “contaminant” into a functional component of a circular supply chain.”

“Elastane is one of the most overlooked blockers to true circularity in fashion: it’s everywhere and yet there is a significant challenge to recovering it at scale. Stretching Circularity is about tackling that problem at the root and proving that lower-impact stretch materials and new recycling pathways can meet real performance and design standards.” Carrie Freiman Parry, Senior Director of Sustainability at Reformation

ECHA Forum’s pilot enforcement project found that 19 % of the checked hazardous mixtures were not notified to poison centres.

Inspectors in 18 EU/EEA countries checked nearly 1 597 mixtures to verify whether industry complies with the obligation to notify hazardous mixtures to national poison centres. This is regulated under the EU’s Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) Regulation. These notifications are crucial for poison centres to provide an adequate medical response in case of exposure to hazardous mixtures. Of all checked mixtures, 19 % were not notified to the authorities. 

Chris Van den hole, the Working Group Chair of this pilot project said: 
“Missing notifications of the necessary information to the poison centres undermine the effectiveness of emergency response. Therefore, inspectors take these findings very seriously and initiated numerous enforcement actions to bring companies to compliance.
“To improve the situation, we have listed recommendations for market actors, authorities and consumers in our report.”

The pilot project also aimed to raise the duty holders’ awareness of their legal obligations, for example, to place the Unique Formula Identifier (UFI) on the label of their products. The 16-digit, alphanumerical UFI code is a vital tool used by the poison centres to rapidly identify a mixture following an accidental poisoning. In 15 % of inspected mixtures, the required UFI was missing from the product label. 

Enforcement actions
Where non-compliance was detected, written advice was the most common enforcement measure applied by inspectors, followed by verbal advice, administrative orders, fines, and even criminal complaints. A number of cases were still under follow-up phase at time of reporting.

Background
According to the CLP Regulation, companies placing hazardous mixtures on the market are obliged to provide information about the composition of those mixtures to the appointed bodies. These bodies make this information available to poison centres so that they can give advice to the citizens or medical personnel in the event of an emergency. The duty to notify applies to mixtures that are classified for human health or physical hazards. For example, mixtures that are corrosive to skin, can cause eye damage or those that are explosive.

The names of companies that placed the controlled mixtures on the market and the products’ brand names were not reported for this project. The main purpose of the project was to harmonise and strengthen the national enforcement at the EU level.

• The companies UBE and ZIKNES, the University of Valencia, and the AIMPLAS Plastics Technology Centre are collaborating on this project, funded by IVACE+i Innovation with support from ERDF funds.
• Applications include packaging, agricultural covers, automotive components and large-scale 3D demonstrators.
• Collaboration with Sea2See ensures the supply of recovered nets from Ghana and strengthens the project’s circular value chain.

The abandonment of fishing nets in seas and oceans is one of the most persistent environmental problems. In response to this situation, the REDES4VALUE project works to recover and recycle disused fishing nets, transforming them into new sustainable, high value-added products such as recycled nylon, films for packaging and agricultural covers, automotive components, and large-format parts produced by additive manufacturing. These developments are achieved through innovative mechanical and chemical recycling processes, combined with reactive extrusion technologies.

This initiative, funded by the Valencian Institute of Competitiveness and Innovation (IVACE+i) and ERDF funds, brings together a consortium formed by AIMPLAS (Plastics Technology Centre), UBE, ZIKNES and the University of Valencia. Their shared objective is to close the life cycle of polyamides and reduce marine pollution through innovative, industry-ready solutions.

Although many nets are made of polyethylene or polypropylene, the project focuses on polyamide nets, a material with great potential for chemical recycling. Its molecular structure allows the recovery of monomers such as caprolactam, enabling the production of new polyamides with properties virtually identical to those of virgin materials.

‘We are achieving optimised conditions for depolymerising fishing nets and recovering monomers with purities above 95% in some laboratory-scale streams, and over 80% at pilot scale”. This will allow us to repolymerise and obtain new polyamides with quality equivalent to virgin material,’ explains Nairim Torrealba, a researcher in Chemical Recycling at AIMPLAS.

Recycled polyamides are intended for sectors such as packaging, agriculture, automotive and 3D printing. Companies such as UBE are already analysing their commercialisation and ZIKNES is adapting its equipment to validate large-format parts. Initial applications include packaging films, agricultural covers, automotive components and large-scale 3D demonstrators.

‘These materials have immediate industrial applications and a clear sustainability advantage over conventional polyamides. These solutions not only reduce dependence on virgin raw materials, but also open up new opportunities for industry in terms of sustainability and the circular economy,’ said Torrealba.

Disruptive technology and international collaboration
REDES4VALUE is advancing in processes such as hydrothermal depolymerisation, ionic liquid-assisted solvolysis and reactive extrusion, as well as comprehensive life cycle and feasibility assessments. One of the main challenges of the project is the treatment of highly degraded nets with a high presence of impurities, but the results are very promising.

Collaboration with the Sea2See brand has ensured access to fishing nets recovered in Ghana since 2019 and has been key to structuring the project’s circular value chain from the waste source. ‘Without this supply of material, it would not be possible to move forward. The nets that arrive from Ghana are essential for validating the processes and obtaining real results,’ said Torrealba.

Consortium and next steps
The project involves AIMPLAS, which is responsible for chemical recycling tasks, UBE for scaling and repolymerisation, ZIKNES for 3D printing validation, and the MATS group at the University of Valencia (MATS-UV) for solvolysis and kinetics studies. ‘Our goal is to consolidate a chemical recycling line that can be applied to complex waste and demonstrate that it is a real and necessary solution,’ concluded Torrealba.

This initiative is funded by the Valencian Institute of Competitiveness and Innovation (IVACE+i), through the Strategic Cooperation Projects programme in its 2024 call for proposals, with co-financing from the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF).

Indorama Ventures, a global sustainable chemical company, takes an important next step toward making textiles more circular for homes and public spaces. To support fabric makers in creating a more sustainable version of the well-known flame-retardant Trevira CS fabric, the company now offers Trevira® flame-retardant fibers and filament yarns that contain 50% recycled textile material. First customers were introduced to the new offering during Heimtextil trade show mid-January in Frankfurt, Germany. 

Jesper Nielsen, Global Key Account Manager Flame Retardancy, explains: “This innovation is possible through Indorama Ventures’ joint venture with Jiaren Chemical Recycling. The renowned recycler uses textile waste from both, consumers and industry, to produce recycled polyester chips. From these chips, we make our high-modified Trevira® flame-retardant fibers and yarns. Customers who use these fibers and yarns to produce fabrics can then apply for the Trevira CS Eco brand. This way, they combine their commitment to circularity with the strong, permanent flame-retardant performance the Trevira CS fabric brand is known for since 1980.” 

Indorama Ventures announced its partnership with Jiaren Chemical Recycling in November 2025. This strategic move reflects the company’s ambition to play a leading role in making textile circularity a reality at scale. The newly available textile-recycled Trevira® flame-retardant fibers and yarns are one outcome of this partnership, which will create more resource-friendly textiles without compromising on comfort or safety.

Beaulieu Fibres has been awarded the EcoVadis Platinum Medal, placing the company among the top 1% of more than 130.000 companies assessed worldwide.

This is the highest possible recognition granted by EcoVadis and confirms Beaulieu Fibres’ strong performance across environmental management, labor & human rights, ethics, and sustainable procurement.

EcoVadis is a globally recognized, independent sustainability assessment platform that evaluates companies based on verified actions rather than stated intentions. The Platinum rating provides customers with third-party validation that Beaulieu Fibres operates responsibly, transparently, and with a continuous focus on reducing environmental impact and strengthening supply-chain practices.

For customers in the disposable and durable nonwoven technical textile markets, this recognition reinforces Beaulieu Fibres’ role as a reliable, future-ready business partner, capable of supporting growing requirements in sustainability, compliance, performance, and operational efficiency.

The EcoVadis Platinum rating aligns closely with Beaulieu Fibres’ long-term ambition to become the preferred partner for innovative and sustainable fibre solutions and to act as “the most complete fibre expert” in the market. The company aims to empower customers to exceed limits - whether in product performance, sustainability objectives, or manufacturing efficiency.

Conventional sports textiles made from petroleum-based synthetic fibres are to be replaced in the future by sustainable, bio-based, cooling textiles. Polyethylene, previously used mainly in the packaging industry, is thus qualified for use in textiles and, as a bio-based drop-in solution, offers a cost-effective, sustainable alternative for the future.

TECNARO (Ilsfeld/Germany), BB Engineering (Remscheid/Germany), FALKE (Schmallenberg/Germany) and the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University have developed textiles from bio-based polyethylene (bioPE) in the bioPEtex project of the BIOTEXFUTURE Innovation Space.

TECNARO develops the bio-based PE compounds and handles their dyeing. ITA is concentrating on the process development for melt spinning (partially-oriented yarn, POY) and false-twist texturing (draw-textured yarn, DTY) of the bioPE yarns. BB Engineering implements the false-twist texturing on an industrial scale, and FALKE is developing the final T-shirt, which will be treated with a bio-based finish for improved elasticity.

The successful creation of a first T-shirt from the yarns developed in this project underscores their promising characteristics. This represents a key milestone and forms the basis for investigating potential market readiness in subsequent phases. Above all, the white BioPE T-shirt impresses with its pleasantly cool and soft touch. However, additional development, characterisation, and optimisation steps are necessary to make a market introduction possible.