From the Sector

In diesem Sommer werden sich zum ersten Mal die besten Sportkletterer_innen im Rahmen der Olympischen Spiele in Tokyo messen. prAna hat für diesen besonderen Anlass zwei neue Kletterhosen entworfen: Wakeen Pant für Frauen und Kragg Pant für Herren. Beide Hosen punkten mit ausgeklügelten Details sowie mit dem weichen, robusten und nachhaltigen RipStop-Material aus Biobaumwolle.

Die Wakeen Pant ist für kletterbegeisterte Frauen designt. Die Kniepartie ist vorgeformt und aus verstärktem Material – so ist sie nicht nur extra robust, sondern liefert auch optimale Bewegungsfreiheit. Mit Freiheit und Tragekomfort überzeugt auch der flach anliegende Stretch-Bund, der mit einem versteckten Kordelzug ausgestattet ist. Zwei große, umlaufende Vordertaschen mit seitlichem Reißverschluss und eine elastische Schlaufe eignen sich prima, um Bürste etc. unterzubringen.

Die Kragg Pant für Männer aus Biobaumwoll-Canvas kommt mit viel Stretch. Der Hosenbund lässt sich dank Kordelsystem individuell anpassen – sorgenfreier Sitz garantiert. Der verstärkte Zwickel hält auch großer Belastung stand. Die abgeschrägte Gesäßtasche sowie die hintere Sicherheitstasche mit Reißverschluss verschaffen Stauraum. Abnäher an den Kniepartien sorgen für bessere Bewegungsfreiheit und durch Kordelzüge lässt sich die Hose immer auf die gewünschte Beinlänge bringen.

A new non-halogenated FR compound called PAL...VersaCHARTM can achieve a new level of flame retardant performance as a coating for nonwovens and technical textiles.

PAL...VersaCHARTM has been tested to 1,950°C – the highest to date – and shown to prevent all flaming drips of polymer. Char bodies form on the compound surface, protecting against flame creation and delaying heat transfer. Rapid self- extinguishing burn behaviour protects any underlying substrate to which it is adhered.

The compound has passed ASTM E84 (Class A) with a 15/10 rating, which includes ‘clean’ smoke generation of only 2.3% of the allowable ASTM smoke limits. In addition, the compound is light weight, at a specific gravity of 1.0, and 100% non-toxic in every respect, being free from heavy metals, halogens and VOCs. 

Other properties include excellent cold crack performance, hydrophobicity, printability, extreme chemical resistance and the ability to be custom tailored for specific needs such as UV or antimicrobial performance, as volume warrants. The compound is also very competitively priced.

In addition to its use as a coating, PAL...VersaCHARTM compound can be produced as a flexible film or sheet and moulded to shape or over-moulded to most materials, including metal for corrosion resistance. As a polymeric compound it can be cast or calendered and typical durometers from 80-99A for flexible-to-high rigid formats are practical. 

Separately, an adhesive has been created which bonds to many surfaces. In internal evaluations of two laminated plies of woven carbon fibre and two plies of glass fabrics, both passed a 60 second vertical burn with no ply separation, distortion or flaming drips from the adhesive.

Dynamic Modifiers envisages many uses for PAL...VersaCHARTM, from aerospace to the protection of rigid structural materials in building interiors etc.   
 

Sicomin has partnered with GREENBOATS® on the supply of GreenPoxy® bio-based resins for the FLAX 27 - the most complete natural fibre composite project realised by GREENBOATS® to date. Sicomin’s hand lamination and infusion production processes have been optimized for natural fibre composites, providing an uncompromising performance.

GREENBOATS® has been producing innovative natural fibre composites at their Bremen facility for more than a decade, expertly crafting a range of marine and industrial products with a mission to use 100% renewable and sustainable raw materials in sandwich composite structures.  

The FLAX 27 is an 8.2m classically styled daysailer designed by renowned naval architects Judel/Vrolijk & Co. The hull, deck and internal structure of the vessel were infused with Sicomin’s very low viscosity GreenPoxy® InfuGreen 810 resin and flax fibre reinforcement fabrics.  

Vacuum infusion with Sicomin’s InfuGreen 810, produced crystal-clear natural fibre laminates with outstanding mechanical properties, whilst the closed mould process also improved working conditions in the factory. Available with a choice of hardeners to adjust the curing time as required, InfuGreen 810 also carries DNV-GL approval, providing a reassuring 3rd party confirmation of the product’s exceptional quality, performance and consistency.
GREENBOATS® typically apply a bespoke lifecycle assessment tool to optimize their projects for performance as well as sustainability. This detailed view of a project’s environmental impact and GREENBOATS® expertise in product development has now created a number of larger scale composite applications for bio-based resins.

Sicomin are looking forward to continuing to work alongside GREENBOATS® in 2020, with industrial production capacity for their market leading range of GreenPoxy® bio-based epoxies positioning the company to support the forecasted large scale growth in the natural fibre composite market.

“Our goal is to really get people excited about Natural Fibre Composites. Sicomin’s GreenPoxy® products help us create sustainable composites with no compromise in performance or appearance.” commented GREENBOATS® founder Friedrich Johann Deimann.

The GREENBOATS® FLAX 27 will be on display on the JEC planets at JEC World 2020 Paris from 3 to 5 March 2020.
 

Within the framework of the preparations for the Group annual financial statements and based on preliminary results, SGL Carbon confirms its guidance for 2019 as revised in October 2019. Accordingly, the Company continues to expect Group sales between €1.05 and €1.1 billion and Group EBIT before extraordinary items between €45 and 50 million. In addition, net financial debt as of December 31, 2019 has also developed as expected, increasing by a mid double digit million € amount and thus remaining below the €300 million mark.

SGL Carbon also confirms the initial outlook for 2020 as presented in October 2019. Group sales is anticipated slightly below the 2019 level and Group EBIT before extraordinary items 10-15% below the 2019 level. To reflect the lower earnings expectations and within the context of a conservative free cash flow management, the Company will restrict capital expenditures to €70-80 million in 2020 (previous guidance: approximately €100 million) and thus approximately on the level of depreciation.

As usual, SGL Carbon will communicate further details on the guidance for 2020, particularly relating to the guidance on the level of the reporting segments, with the publication of the annual report 2019 on March 12, 2020.

The Company will also publish statements on the new mid-term plan on this date.

The Trevira CS joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 was once again a success.

Trevira looks back on a successful trade fair appearance at Heimtexil 2020. The concept of a joint booth together with customers along with the presentation of product innovations and a special exhibition dedicated to the contract sector has once again proved its worth. Trevira hosted 31 co-exhibitors thus increasing the number of participants again compared to last year. Members of the entire textile value chain were present at the Trevira stand: from the fibre production and yarn manufacture, to the colouring, weaving and warp and weft knitting stages, to the textile editor.

Klaus Holz, CEO Trevira GmbH: „We are pleased about the very positive feedback we got on our joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 from our customers and the visitors to our stand. It shows that our concept is successful and that the booth works well as a market place for Trevira CS.”

Product novelties were presented in an Innovation Park. Under the headline “Recycling at Trevira” the fibre producer presented its sustainable product range and diversified approaches to recycling: flame retardant fibres are produced from residual materials, which are reprocessed in an agglomeration plant. The recyclates are then deployed in the spinning facility to make new, high-quality products consisting of 100 % pre-consumer recycled material. Recycled, flame retardant filaments are produced from PET bottles and have a recycled content of 50 %. Standard polyester spun-dyed filament yarns are also available in a recycled version. Produced from PET bottles these yarns have a recycled content of 100 %.

In order to produce flame retardant fabrics which are also high-performing  in outdoor applications, Trevira now offers six more colours in addition to the existing colour range of 24 UV-stable, spun-dyed filament yarns. Trevira had been awarded the „Brandenburger Innovationspreis Kunststoffe und Chemie 2019“ for this innovation.

Cationic dyeable fibres and filament yarns enhance the Trevira portfolio of flame retardant specialties. They are used to create melange designs in fabrics, which still represents a strong trend in the home textile sector.

To meet the ever more complex demands of the market for more flexibility in design and additional functions as well as for sustainable products Trevira has introduced an enhanced Trevira CS branding concept, consisting of the three brands Trevira CS, Trevira CS flex und Trevira CS eco. Assigned according to product features, all of them stand for tested safety.

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

• Sales were significantly down on the previous year, falling by 29% to CHF 760 million
• EBIT margin of around 11% and net profit of around 7% of sales anticipated, non-recurring profit contribution from sale of real estate in Ingolstadt (Germany)
• Order intake up 7% on previous year; order intake amounting to CHF 401.6 million booked in fourth quarter 2019 (4th quarter 2018: CHF 119.0 million)
• First half of 2020 expected to be significantly lower than previous year in terms of sales and earnings
• Further capacity adjustment measures introduced
• Start of construction of Rieter CAMPUS expected during 2020, subject to granting of building permit

The Rieter Group closed the 2019 financial year, as expected, with considerably lower sales than in the previous year. According to the first, unaudited figures, total sales of CHF 760.0 million were achieved, which is 29% down on the previous year (2018: CHF 1 075.2 million). At CHF 926.1 million, order intake was 7% higher than in the prior year period (2018: CHF 868.8 million). Rieter will publish the full annual financial statements and the 2019 Annual Report on March 10, 2020.

After Interfilière and Milano Unica Iluna Group arrives at Première Vision, the other Parisian stop where to present the latest exclusive capsule

Iluna Group returns to Paris, this time to Première Vision, with an eco-sustainable lace collection and the brand new Yoga Capsule collection.

In the AZL Workgroup "High-Performance SMC", a project was developed in cooperation with M-Base, the IKV and the AZL partner network for the efficient and standardized provision of engineering data for SMC. Within the scope of the project, companies can participate in the definition of the required characteristic material data, the guidelines for the production of test specimens and the test specifications.
Sheet Moulding Compounds (SMC) are used in various application areas such as vehicles, electronics, construction and infrastructure.

Driven by the requirements to reduce the production costs of lightweight components, a new generation of SMC components with high mechanical properties is of highest relevance. SMC offers enormous potential to realize structural components with good lightweight characteristics at significantly reduced costs compared to conventional continuous fiber-reinforced components.
In order to further establish SMC in broad industrial applications companies participating within the AZL Workgroup recognized the value of a data bank for data harmonization of SMC to provide the possibility of easily finding the right material with its characteristics for the needed specific requirements.

“The segment of SMC is with 250,000 tons production per year the largest composites market in Europe. I am very pleased that we start now with the project of data harmonization along the complete value chain. The goal is to have a similar data base as already established by Campus® for thermoplastics and thermoplastic composites. Only with a reliable set data we can convince the engineering experts to use SMC in a larger variety of applications,” says Dr. Michael Effing, Chairman of the Board of AVK and Composites Germany.

As of right now a databank for engineered thermoplastic materials (by Campus®) already exists and is offering an immense value.
Under the lead of M-Base, Dr. CEO Erwin Baur who has successfully established the CAMPUS database, the AZL, IKV and companies along the value chain of long fibre reinforced SMC initiated to build a CAMPUS-compatible data structure and material characterization methodology during the High-Performance SMC Workgroup Meetings.

In the latest short film released on the Monforts YouTube Channel – captured at the recent Denim Première Vision show in London – some of the leading global manufacturers discuss their initiatives for more sustainable denim production.

Cone Denim, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, for example, can lay claim to having put in place its first environmental control measures back in the 1940s when the company first started recycling its water.

“It was a method of efficiency even back then, eighty years ago,” says Gabriel Magopat, of the company’s UK customer service centre, “but  producing high quality products is another method of being sustainable and of being efficient, and I think that’s what Cone stands for. We have an amazing history.”

Cone Denim is known for its signature S Gene® stretch denims which have traditionally incorporated polyester components to provide the stretch. It has now partnered with Intrinsic Advanced Materials of Gastonia, also in North Carolina, to introduce patent-pending CiCLO stretch polyester fibres into its denim collections. 

While still being synthetic based, CiCLO polyester is able to biodegrade in marine environments, wastewater treatment plants and landfill conditions, at rates similar to natural fibres like wool. 

This more sustainable solution for stretch is also being introduced to China for the first time by another leading denim supplier, Advance Denim.

“Advance Denim is spending its resources on being the most technologically advanced company in China, and also the most sustainable,” says Mark Ix, the company’s Director of Marketing. “We are investing heavily in our manufacturing to save both water and chemicals to create cleaner products.”

Monforts denim customer Berto is a family-owned company with its main denim mill in Bovolenta, a small rural town near to Padua in the north east of Italy, where respect for the environment has always been a must.

“The family has always been focused on respect for the environment,” says Berto’s Marketing Manager Francesca Palento. “In particular, we have a river next to the company from which we take our water for production and we then return it cleaner than it was before. We are also now producing GOTS and Global Recycling Standard jean produced with yarns made from our own internal waste production.”

Pakistan’s Soorty has recently received Cradle to Cradle Gold certification – the most stringent and exacting sustainable standard currently in existence – for its Pure D range of denims. These are produced using the company’s proprietary Zero Waste Water dyeing technology, in combination with the most advanced Monforts finishing machines. 

“Our very latest collection is called Climate Jeans, because every single product we now produce draws attention to the climate emergency we are living through right now,” says Eda Dikman, Soorty’s Marketing Communications Manager. “Sustainability is very important to us because we produce at scale and all of the actions we take reflect on the planet.”