From the Sector

• CHIC ONLINE vom 22. bis 24. April 2020
• Erfolgreiche Premiere der digitalen Ausgabe der CHIC vom 22.-24. April 2020
• Mehr als 1.350 Austeller nahmen an den über 100 Online-Aktivitäten der Messe teil
• Alle Vertriebskanäle des chinesischen Handels waren auf der Plattform vertreten
• Im Fokus der Kunden: innovatives, kreatives Design und hochwertige Produkte

1.350 teilnehmende Aussteller, über 100 Online-Aktivitäten, über 60 Live-Medienberichte, bis zu 157.403 Besuche verzeichnete die erste CHIC ONLINE vom 22. bis 24. April 2020.

Die aktuell weltweit schwierige wirtschaftliche Situation durch die Corona-Pandemie läßt die Unternehmen nach neuen Lösungsansätzen für ihre Geschäftsmöglichkeiten suchen.
CHIC, China International Fashion Fair, hat mit CHIC ONLINE, ihrer ersten digitalen Messe, an drei Tagen die Möglichkeit geboten, sich mit Entscheidern des chinesischen Modehandels zu vernetzen, sich auszutauschen und Ressourcen zu bündeln.

„Der Start der CHIC ONLINE ist ein historischer Tag für CHIC, die nach ihrer Gründung vor 28 Jahren hiermit zum ersten Mal online gegangen ist.“ Chen Dapeng, Präsident der China National Garment Association und CHIC, Vizepräsident der China Textile Industry Federation.

Mehr als 1.350 Hersteller haben ihre Angebote in die Online-Meeting-Räume von Tencent Meeting und Ding Talk hochgeladen und an den über 100 Online-Meeting-Aktivitäten von CHIC ONLINE teilgenommen. Die über Jahrzehnte gesammelten Ressourcen der CHIC, ihr Netzwerk und ihre Erfahrungen beim Informationsaustausch sind bei dem Event zum Tragen gekommen. CHIC ONLINE ist ein positiver Ansatz für die digitale Transformation der Messe und gleichzeitig ein pragmatischer Schritt die Geschäftskanäle und Ressourcen miteinander zu verknüpfen.

In dieser speziellen Zeit ist CHIC ONLINE für die gesamte chinesische Bekleidungsindustrie und ihre internationalen Teilnehmer kostenfrei geöffnet gewesen, als Unterstützungsmaßnahme der CHIC für Chinas Mode- und Lifestyle-Industrie.

Die Online-Messehalle unterteilte sich in die Segmente Men, Women, Impulses (Designer), KIDZ, Winter (Leder und Pelz, Daunen), CHIC YOUNG BLOOD (Streetwear), Tailoring (Bespoke), Accessoires, Taschen und Schuhe, Fashion Journey (internationale Marken) und Sourcing. Die Meeting-Räume waren klar nach Angebot und Nachfrage strukturiert, eine direkte Brücke für die Kommunikation in Echtzeit.
Alle Kanäle des chinesischen Handels waren bei CHIC ONLINE vertreten: E-Commerce Plattformen wie Tmall, Jingdong, VIP Shop, oder NetEase Yeaton (Chinas "Muji"), eine der beliebtesten Online-Plattformen in China und Biyao Shop - ursprünglich gegründet als Verkaufsplattform für Luxusprodukte direkt vom Hersteller zu günstigeren Preisen - mit mittlerweile 20 Millionen Abonnenten, über 80.000 Bestellungen täglich.

Department Stores wie die Wangfujing-Gruppe, Weifang Department Store Group, LiQun Gruppe nutzten CHIC ONLINE für die Suche nach neuen Marken genauso wie zahlreiche Multi-brand Boutiquen darunter HANATEBAKO Designer Brand Collection Store aus Qingdao, dessen Direktor Jiang Shixiang in der Angebotsvielfalt und Diversifikation der Kategorien die Zukunft der Offline-Stores im chinesischen Markt sieht. Besonders die Segmente Accessoires und Schuhe seien für die Boutiquen wichtige Themen.

Auch internationale Einkäufer nutzten die Messe für die Suche nach Produzenten, wie Social Cloud Co., Dont Give Up Co., und WHYNOTCo. aus Italien.

Kollektionen mit starkem Design, innovative und individuelle Produkte standen im Fokus der Kunden. Ein grundlegender Trend sind gestiegene Qualitätsanforderungen für alle Produktsegmente, auch für die Basisprodukte. Der Konsument wünscht sich qualitativ hochwertige Ware, Qualität vor Quantität. Das ist während der CHIC ONLINE von den Marktteilnehmern hervorgehoben worden.

Chen Dapeng resümiert: „Die digitale Premiere der CHIC ist bei allen Teilnehmern auf positive Resonanz gestoßen. Als verläßlicher Partner der Branche ist es CHICs Absicht und Zweck der Industrie und dem Handel pragmatische Unterstützung zu bieten. Wir sind überzeugt, dass Chinas Modeindustrie neu gestartet ist.“

Center of competence for hygiene established in Wiener Neudorf to support Austria and the EU in the Covid-19 crisis for the industrial production of high-quality protective masks with a monthly capacity of 12 million pieces.

Lenzing AG and Palmers Textil AG found “Hygiene Austria LP GmbH”, in which Lenzing AG holds 50.1% and Palmers Textil AG 49.9%. The newly founded company will start producing and selling protective masks for the domestic and European markets from May 2020.

Over the past few weeks, Lenzing AG and Palmers Textil AG have invested several million euros in a modern production infrastructure at the Wiener Neudorf location and secured the corresponding raw materials for protective masks production. In a first step, the company produces so-called mouth-nose protective masks (MNS) and surgical protective masks of class EN14683. Hygiene Austria LP GmbH plans to increase its capacities to over 25 million masks per month over the next few weeks and to expand this business geographically as well.

The demand for high-quality MNS and respiratory masks for medical personnel is increasing rapidly, and there is real competition on the international market for these products. In order to sustainably secure domestic supply now and in the future and to strengthen the business location, the two companies Lenzing AG and Palmers Textil AG have now set a milestone with their own competence center for hygiene based in Austria.

Hygiene Austria LP GmbH thus makes a significant contribution to combating the Covid-19 pandemic and ensures the long-term supply of these critical goods in Austria in high quality.

Within the context of a globally-networked textile industry, online services have become essential for maintenance, modernization and original parts procurement processes for machines and systems.
Here, the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment optimized the myOerlikon.com service portal for the products and services of its Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven brands, making it more userfriendly. It allows customers to now access tailored services in nine different languages and around the clock.

Each and every machine park usually has numerous associated documents, ranging from manuals, circuit diagrams and 3D drawing-supported original parts catalogs, all the way through to operating instructions and final documents. myOerlikon.com bundles this information, while also providing users with additional communications on potential machine modernizations and upgrades and on special offers tailored to the respective production system.

Real security during virtual shopping
At the same time, users can access the myOerlikon.com e-commerce platform, which operates in parallel.
Customers can not only place orders here, they can also send online inquiries to Oerlikon, view prices and warehouse stocks and track inquiries,
quotations and orders already made or placed, among many other things. As a result of online access to original parts catalogs for the respective customer machines and systems, erroneous orders can be avoided.
Log-in is secure for users, as are all transactions carried out using the platform. With this, Oerlikon is implementing real security for all virtual purchases. All data exchanged is fundamentally
encrypted and hence protected against unauthorized access.

ISKO presented its 100% responsible platform, R-TWO™.

The denim ingredient brand hosted a special panel to discuss some of the advancements in technology that are making the fashion industry more responsible: from R-TWO™ to automated laser technology.

With the fashion industry being considered one of the world’s most polluting businesses-sectors, collaborating and knowledge sharing are key in finding solutions for a better future. Fully aware of this scenario, ISKO was the headline sponsor at The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Forum brings together responsible players to discuss what can be done to tackle the industry’s environmental and social issues through innovation and creativity.

Sharing knowledge, collaborating for change.
As evidence of its Responsible Innovation™ approach, ISKO presented the R-TWO™ program, its latest
responsible achievement. Stemming from the mill’s holistic vision, R-TWO™ represents a great example of how reducing, reusing, and recycling strategies can be implemented in a textile business to improve its  environmental performance.
The R-TWO™ reduces the amount of raw material sourced by using a blend of reused cotton and recycled polyester – both certified –, improving sourcing efficiency throughout the entire field-to-fabric production.
Reused cotton is certified with the Content Claim Standard – or CCS – from the Textile Exchange. As for recycled polyester, it can be either Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) or Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, depending on the content percentages. Together with this cutting-edge and fully responsible program, ISKO also uses automated laser
technology developed in partnership with Jeanologia.

“How technology can help make the fashion industry more sustainable”:
On March 11th, ISKO hosted a discussion about ways, to make the fashion industry more responsible
The panel was moderated by David Shah, consultant on design and marketing development, Publisher and CEO at Metropolitan Publishing BV and Associate Professor at ARTez (Arnhem, the Netherlands) and Associate Professor at Renmin University, (Beijing, China). The talk involved Keith O’Brien, ISKO Marketing & Business Development Manager, Victoria Soto, Jeanologia Custom Technology Consultant and Filippo Ricci, Fashion Open Studio Program & Partnership Manager.

Trevira will be joining the first BCFA Open Berlin pop-up exhibition, which will be held at the British Embassy on 6 May at the same time of Berlin Design Week (4 – 10 May 2020). The one-day fair is being organised by the British Contract Furnishing Association (BCFA), and members of the association will have the opportunity to display their products in the atrium of the post-modern embassy building.  

At the exhibition, specially invited interior designers and furnishers, along with purchasers from the contract market, will be able to find out more about the collections and products of high-end British manufacturers and textile houses, and attend interesting talks by two top specialists of the sector.

Trevira will be showing a selection of Trevira CS fabrics which were on display earlier this year at the Heimtextil 2020, where they featured in the special exhibition ‘Textile Future by Trevira CS’. These fabrics are permanently flame retardant and can be deployed in a wide range of applications, as Berlin design company studio aisslinger impressively showed in the exhibition at the Trevira stand. For the Heimtextil fair, the prestigious studio aisslinger design team worked together with Trevira, creating a concept that revealed just how attractive and playful Trevira CS fabrics can be in a variety of settings on the contract market, including hospitality, healthcare, workspaces, public spaces and transport.

Designers and architects who are interested in taking part in the event are welcome to register their details with Trevira.

At the Swiss-Egyptian Investment Forum which took place on February 3 in Cairo (Egypt), the Cotton & Textiles Holding Company and Rieter signed additional contracts related to the modernization program for the Egyptian textile industry.

Further Orders from Egypt:

• Contracts for additional projects signed in Cairo
• Order volume is around 30 million Swiss francs
• Order intake in the first half year of 2020 expected

The total volume of the contracts sums up to around 210 million Swiss Francs, including the contracts which had been signed at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona and which represent a volume of around 180 million Swiss Francs.

Rieter expects the full amount of orders to be booked as order intake in the first half year of 2020. So far, 165 million Swiss Francs have been booked.

Thanks to numerous new ramp-ups and the favorable portfolio of vehicle models supplied, Autoneum grew organically by 2.5% in a declining market. Adjusted for currency effects, Group revenue in Swiss francs amounted to CHF 2 297.4 million, 0.7% higher compared to the previous year.

For the second consecutive year, fewer vehicles were manufactured worldwide in 2019 than in the prior year. In particular, the persistently weak global economy and ongoing trade disputes have had an impact on vehicle demand. With only about 89 million vehicles produced, the market shrank by almost –6% compared to 2018. Despite this negative trend, Autoneum achieved an organic revenue growth of 2.5% through numerous production ramp-ups and a favorable mix of vehicle models supplied. Revenue consolidated in Swiss francs rose by 0.7% from CHF 2 281.5 million to CHF 2 297.4 million.

Revenue growth in North America, Asia and SAMEA region significantly above market The Business Groups North America, Asia and SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) not only outperformed the negative market trend in each case, but also reported higher revenues compared to the previous year. In Europe only, the drop in automobile production caused a decline in revenue of the corresponding Business Group by –5.6% in local currencies. Business Group North America improved its revenue by 7.2% on a currency-adjusted basis, primarily driven by various production ramp-ups of German and Japanese vehicle manufacturers. Despite considerably fewer vehicles being produced in Asia, the Business Group increased its revenue in local currencies by 8.1% thanks to high-volume and new programs of European and Asian automobile manufacturers. Business Group SAMEA continued its growth course. Against the market slump in this region, revenue in local currencies and adjusted for inflation rose by 32.7%. This was mainly due to high-volume export programs in Turkey and South Africa as well as much higher production volumes compared to the previous year in the key SAMEA market of Brazil.

#Takelifebythehorns

Overcoming challenges. Thinking outside the box. Positive thinking. A vision of personal creativity. The advertising campaign for the Spring-Summer 2020 season is a manifesto for expressing the PINKO Woman. Determined, empowered, confident, making her own decisions. Always ready to take life by the horns.

A fiery sunset. A wilderness of mesmerising colours is the backdrop to Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott’s shots, which portray a femininity that is glamorous, gritty, rock, and never predictable. This visual symphony was shaped with a creative team that united stylist Vanessa Reid and creative director Riccardo Ruini with the new star, Lily Aldridge – model, mother and businesswoman – who embodies the beauty of the moment. “We chose Lily because she is the epitome of the PINKO woman”, explained Caterina Negra, image director of PINKO. “She is elegant, sophisticated, with a modern approach. She fills many roles without having had to sacrifice anything. She makes an impression living a life filled with different experiences, as demanded by the modern world”.

Fringes  and  a  masculine  jacket.  Bright  sequins  and  dark  leather.  Rodeo-style  boots,  belt  and  hat  are  teamed  with  sensual denim. This is Lily’s look, as she mounts a unique mechanical bull. It was made specially for the campaign, inspired by the shape and detailing of the Love Bag Mix Studs. An ultra-stylish clash of black and metal accompanies the Love Bag Puff, a new shape in soft quilted nappa leather with chevron motif and appliqué suede fringe. The  fastening  is  the  iconic  metal  buckle  with  Love  Birds.  Not  forgetting  micro-chains  and  studs  for  the  Mini  Love  Metal Fringes or rhinestone fringing for the Go-round version.

The looks are a spontaneous expression of femininity, where personality is key, and movement adds a new dimension to the images. It’s the PINKO message. To be in a safe place where you can be creative without being judged and where you are free to choose. #createyourownlife

Sustainability is part of SEEK’s internal make-up and has always been part of the team and community experience. Over 80 sustainable brands make up the brand portfolio, including players like Veja, Dedicated and Kings of Indigo. Experts will be sharing their experiences on this market-defining topic as well, with a host of live podcasts, talks and panel discussions, and will be shaping SEEK’s programme of content.
 
BIG PLAYER: the new SEEK Culture
 
SEEK is Europe’s most successful trade show for pop, street and sneaker culture. This is where the key players meet, where the looks of tomorrow are showcased, modelled and retold, where classics are celebrated, authenticity rules the roost and where icons take their positions alongside shooting stars. SEEK is essential participation for anyone looking to curate a modern, youthful and relevant range.

The shift from a niche event to a large trade show is now complete with a new logo and campaign design. SEEK has emerged from its transformation to reveal that its content and visual look are as relevant as ever!  

Together with creative agencies Karl Anders and Haebmau, the SEEK team has been working for weeks on the brand’s new branding. The result: a visual concept with a strong message.

“The handshake is the right imagery and commitment to our stance and that of the SEEK community.”

“SEEK stands for strength and business just as much as for communality and good vibes! ‘Get Along’ articulates a feeling of agreement, of moving forward and getting to grips with things. We all want to shape a positive future for our industry – as partners and by joining forces.”, explains Fashion Director Maren Wiebus.

CREATIVE CONNECTION: Karl Anders and Haebmau
 
The Hamburg-based agency Karl Anders, which was established by Claudia Fischer-Appelt and Lars Kreyenhagen, was commissioned to come up with the creative concept and design language for the logo and campaign.

“With the new look we are entering a new era for SEEK as a brand. Lots of brands have chosen a design using Helvetica in recent years,” says Claudia Fischer-Appelt, Creative Director at Karl Anders. “We are now signalling a clear shift in another direction. Confident, bold and independent. With the logo we are inviting the viewer to play with the linear layout in their head; we are breaking viewing habits, making a statement and revving things up a gear. SEEK, there it is.”
 
The artwork is the result of a process of in-depth debate with the SEEK brand that took place over several weeks both within the team and also with the support of lifestyle agency Haebmau. Workshops, research and analyses ultimately led to a new, strong brand identity. SEEK is focussed on both established and new players and stands for the WE.

“I have known SEEK since it was in its infancy, so to me it was always like a little brother of the large, successful PREMIUM. Quirky and different, always interesting but somehow not quite so imposing,” says Markus Bublitz, Executive Creative Director at Haebmau. “SEEK today is more grown-up, confident and sharper. Thanks to its position in the market, which it has conquered over the years, it no longer needs to please everyone but can afford to be controversial. This can offer space for new, creative ideas.”

SEEK is edgy, clean-cut and unpolished.

We are all about statement design, new classics, denim and sportswear. SEEK is the trade show event for the fashion community. SEEK knows who calls the shots; it boosts sales and is the place for the next generation of decision-makers to get together. Unlike all the others, SEEK is unconventional and the antidote to boring.

Der Textil vernetzt-Partner Hahn-Schickard hat ein neues Projekt zur Produktentwicklung mit der Ernst REINER GmbH & Co. KG begonnen.

Welche Notwendigkeiten und welche Möglichkeiten ergeben sich durch die Vernetzung mobiler Kennzeichnungsgeräte? Dieser Frage will die Ernst REINER GmbH & Co. KG aus Furtwangen zusammen mit dem Textil vernetzt-Partner Hahn-Schickard in einem gemeinsamen Projekt auf den Grund gehen.

Das 1913 gegründete Familienunternehmen Ernst REINER zählt zu den Marktführern von Stempeln und Kennzeichnungsgeräten in Europa sowie von OCR Druck- und Scan-Systemen in Deutschland. Die mobilen Kennzeichnungsgeräte kommen vornehmlich in Industrie, öffentlicher Verwaltung oder Logistik zum Einsatz, um Verpackungen, Kisten oder auch Paletten zu bedrucken. In der Textilindustrie sind Beschriftungen ebenfalls ein Thema. Bei der Produktion der Kennzeichnungsgeräte steht bei Ernst REINER die Erfüllung höchster Qualitätsstandards im Mittelpunkt, die etwa 200 Mitarbeiter umsetzen. Unter Einsatz neuer Technologien sowie moderner Produktionsanlagen steht das Unternehmen für eine wirtschaftliche und hochpräzise Fertigung.

Um den Mehrwert für Kunden und Unternehmen zu steigern, soll nun – aufbauend auf diesen Anwendungen – evaluiert werden, welche erweiterten Funktionen und Dienstleistungen vor allem für mobile Kennzeichnungsgeräte durch das Internet der Dinge konzipiert, implementiert und angeboten werden können. Mit den Kollegen von Hahn-Schickard wird dazu eine Kosten-Nutzen-Rechnung aufgestellt. Welche Möglichkeiten sich durch die Vernetzung der Belegdrucker bei Ernst REINER ergeben, wollen die Kollegen von Hahn-Schickard in einem 360°-Screening ermitteln.