From the Sector

From March 15-16, 2023, the spring edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS kicked off on the fairgrounds of Messe München. With around 2,685 visitors, the event organizers were particularly pleased with numbers up on the previous winter fair. High attendances were also evident at the Expert Talks on both days, which provided information on the latest color and fabric trends, news on developments in sustainability and new technologies from fiber manufacturers. The focal points of the show were marked by the PERFORMANCE FORUM, which showcased the fabric highlights for the spring/summer 2025 season as well as the two PERFORMANCE AWARD and ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD winners.

After the kick-off event in Munich in March, the industry now looks forward to the follow-up fairs in Portland from April 4-5, 2023 and in Shanghai, April 10-11, 2023.

New concept starting October 2023: Premiere for highlighted focus on footwear
As part of the upcoming PERFORMANCE DAYS, which will once again take place at the Messe München exhibition center on October 4-5, 2023, the event organizers will no longer focus explicitly on sustainable functional textiles and accessories, but will also focus on the footwear market.

To support the integration of the footwear market into the trade fair events in Munich, Portland, New York and Shanghai, the organizers have brought on board two industry specialists, Nina Conrad and Rucky Zambrano.

Nina Conrad has been active as a sustainability consultant in the textile and leather industry for many years, specializing in traceable and local supply chains. Her core business is the production of leather and leather goods derived from animals raised on certified organic farms. She is also a founding partner of the Sustainable Leather Foundation and co-founder of the Fibershed subsiduary DACH.

Rucky Zambrano is a industrial designer and expert. When he got to know Vibram in 1992, he shifted his career to footwear for reasons of passion. For 13 years now, Zambrana and Vibram have been a driving force in the footwear market and made the leap from performance to fashion, as witnessed with the Merrell Chameleon, the Prada Luna Rossa boat shoe sole or the latest Vibram FiveFingers models. He is currently responsible for footwear for the Finnish children’s outdoor brand Reima.

Major developments FY 2022

• Currency-neutral revenues up 1% reflecting growth in all markets except Greater China
• Double-digit increases in North America and Latin America, EMEA up high single digits
• Gross margin declines to 47.3% due to strong increase in supply chain costs and discounting  
• Operating profit at € 669 million, including one-off costs of € 312 million
• Operating margin decreases to 3.0%  
• Net income (continuing operations) of € 254 million includes € 350 million one-off costs
• Executive and Supervisory Boards propose dividend of € 0.70 per share

Major developments Q4 2022

• Currency-neutral revenues decline 1% impacted by termination of Yeezy partnership
• Gross margin at 39.1% reflecting increased supply chain costs and higher discounting
• Operating loss of € 724 million
• Net loss from continuing operations of € 482 million

Outlook for 2023
Underlying operating profit expected to be around break-even level
In 2023, adidas expects currency-neutral revenues to decline at a high-single-digit rate as macroeconomic challenges and geopolitical tensions persist. Elevated recession risks in Europe and North America as well as uncertainty around the recovery in Greater China continue to exist. The company’s revenue development will also be impacted by the initiatives to significantly reduce high inventory levels. In addition, while the company continues to review future options for the utilization of its Yeezy inventory, the guidance already reflects the revenue loss of around € 1.2 billion from potentially not selling the existing stock. Accounting for the corresponding negative operating profit impact of around € 500 million, the company’s underlying operating profit is projected to be around the break-even level in 2023.

Reported operating loss of € 700 million projected
Should the company irrevocably decide not to repurpose any of the existing Yeezy product going forward, this would result in the potential write-off of the existing Yeezy inventory and would lower the company’s operating profit by an additional € 500 million this year. In addition, adidas expects one-off costs of up to € 200 million in 2023. These costs are part of a strategic review the company is currently conducting aimed at reigniting profitable growth as of 2024. If all these effects were to materialize, the company expects to report an operating loss of € 700 million in 2023.

At the Annual General Meeting of Autoneum Holding Ltd on 24th March 2023, a clear majority of the shareholders approved the introduction of a capital band in the amount of approximately CHF 100 million net proceeds to finance the acquisition of Borgers Automotive. The proposal to waive the payment of a dividend for the 2022 financial year in view of the lower net result was also approved. In addition, Board member Rainer Schmückle as well as CEO Matthias Holzammer were given a farewell.

221 shareholders attended today’s Annual General Meeting of Autoneum Holding Ltd in Winterthur. 66.48 percent of the share capital was represented.

The shareholders approved the Annual Report, the Annual Financial Statements and the Consolidated Financial Statements for 2022. The proposal of the Board of Directors to waive the payment of a dividend for the financial year 2022 due to the lower net result was also approved by the Annual General Meeting.

In addition, the shareholders of Autoneum Holding Ltd granted discharge to all members of the Group Executive Board and the Board of Directors by a large majority of votes.

Chairman Hans-Peter Schwald and the other members of the Board of Directors Liane Hirner, Norbert Indlekofer, Michael Pieper, Oliver Streuli and Ferdinand Stutz were confirmed in office for another year. Hans-Peter Schwald, Norbert Indlekofer, Ferdinand Stutz and Oliver Streuli were re-elected to the Compensation Committee.

The consultative vote on the 2022 remuneration report was approved by 85.55%. The proposals for the remuneration of the Board of Directors and the Group Executive Board for the 2023 financial year as well as the other proposals were also approved by a large majority.

With 99.03%, a clear majority of the shareholders approved a capital band authorizing a capital increase of approximately CHF 100 million net proceeds. The purpose of the capital increase is to partially finance the acquisition of the automotive business of the Borgers Group announced by Autoneum on January 9, 2023. The Annual General Meeting also approved the other proposals of the Board of Directors for partial amendments to the Articles of Association.

Rainer Schmückle did not stand for re-election. He had been Vice Chairman of the Board of Directors, Chairman of the Audit Committee and member of the Strategy and Sustainability Committee since Autoneum became independent in 2011. CEO Matthias Holzammer, who will leave Autoneum for family reasons, was also bid farewell.

At the same time, Hans-Peter Schwald welcomed the new CEO Eelco Spoelder, who will take over the management of the Group from Matthias Holzammer on March 27, 2023: "With Eelco Spoelder, Autoneum gains an accomplished leader with many years of experience in the automotive supply industry. At Faurecia and previously at Continental, Mr. Spoelder has successfully proven that he can ensure strategic continuity and operational excellence even in a difficult market environment. I and the other members of the Board of Directors warmly welcome Eelco Spoelder and look forward to our future cooperation."

• Sales increase of 12.8% to €1,135.9 million
• EBITDApre improves by 23.4% to €172.8 million
• Net financial debt reduced from €206.3 million to €170.8 million
• Fiscal 2023 expected to be investment and stabilization year

SGL Carbon was again able to improve sales and earnings in fiscal year 2022 following 2021. All four business units contributed to this success.
Sales in fiscal 2022 increased by 12.8% year-on-year to €1,135.9 million (previous year: €1,007.0 million). The rise in sales was mainly due to both volume effects and the successful implementation of pricing initiatives to compensate higher raw material, energy and transport prices. At 23.4%, adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) improved at a higher rate than sales and amounted to €172.8 million in fiscal 2022 (previous year: €140.0 million). Increased sales and the associated higher capacity utilization also contributed to the improvement in earnings, as well as focusing on market segments with higher margin potential.
 
Earnings development of SGL Carbon
The increase in EBITDApre by €32.8 million to €172.8 million was mainly driven by the Graphite Solutions business unit (+€30.6 million). The Composite Solutions (+€7.9 million) and Process Technology (+€5.2 million) business units also contributed to the improvement in profitability. Although the Carbon Fibers business unit was able to offset the loss of a lucrative supply contract with an automotive customer in terms of sales with new orders from the wind energy sector, but these sales showed a significantly lower margin level. Accordingly, EBITDApre of this business unit decreased by €11.2 million to €43.2 million (previous year: €54.5 million).

Taking into account net one-off effects and non-recurring items of €8.9 million (previous year: €30.7 million) and depreciation and amortization of €60.8 million (previous year: €60.3 million), reported EBIT amounted to €120.9 million (2021: €110.4 million). This corresponds to an increase of 9.5%.
As a result of the pleasing business performance, the successes of the transformation and non-operating one-off effects and non-recurring items (€8.9 million), a positive Group’s net profit of €126.9 million (previous year: €75.4 million) was achieved in 2022. It should be noted that consolidated net income includes tax income of €31.3 million (previous year: minus €6.2 million). This development is mainly due to valuation adjustments on deferred tax assets amounting to €41.8 million, based on the good business development combined with positive earnings prospects in the USA. Current tax expenses amounted to €11.4 million in 2022 (previous year: €11.9 million).
 
Net financial debt and equity
In fiscal 2022, net financial debt was reduced significantly by 17.2% to €170.8 million compared with the end of 2021 (€206.3 million). The main reason for the decrease is the repayment of financial liabilities in the amount of €29.0 million. Free cash flow decreased from €111.5 million to €67.8 million in 2022. In this context, it should be taken into account that in the previous year, free cash flow included cash inflows of €30.6 million from the sale of land not required for operations.
After 2021, the equity ratio increased again to 38.5% at the end of 2022 (previous year: 27.0% I 2020: 17.5%). Due to the significantly improved earnings situation, the return on capital employed (ROCE) also rose from 8.0% in the previous year to 11.3% in 2022.
 
Development of the business units
As the largest business unit with a share of Group sales of around 45%, Graphite Solutions contributed €512.2 million to Group sales in 2022 (previous year: €443.6 million). The 15.5% increase in sales is based in particular on the positive development of the important market segments Semiconductor & LED and Industrial Applications. Compared to the previous year, sales to customers in the semiconductor & LED industry increased by 49.6%, driven in particular by increasing demand of materials and components for the production of silicon carbide-based high-performance semiconductors. Combined with the increase in sales, GS EBITDApre improved by 34.8% to €118.5 million (previous year: €87.9 million). Accordingly, the EBITDApre margin increased from 19.8% to 23.1%. Volume effects due to higher sales as well as margin effects from the product and customer mix had a positive impact.  Especially the higher sales with customers from the semiconductor industry should be taken into account.

In fiscal 2022, the Process Technology (PT) business unit benefited from the good order situation in recent months and increased its sales by 21.9% to €106.3 million. The main clients of the PT business unit are customers from the chemical industry. The positive development of PT is also reflected in EBITDApre which rose from €4.7 million in the same period of the previous year to €9.9 million. Higher capacity utilization and the successful passing on of increased raw material costs led to an improvement in the EBITDApre margin from 5.4%  to 9.3% in 2022. Energy costs play only a minor role at PT.

In the reporting year, sales of the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit increased by 3.0% to €347.2 million (previous year: €337.2 million). It should be noted that CF had to absorb the scheduled expiry of a supply contract with an automotive customer at the end of June 2022. These sales were offset by orders from the wind industry and Industrial Applications. However, EBITDApre in the CF division decreased by 20.7% year-on-year to €43.2 million (previous year: €54.5 million). This earnings development is mainly attributable to the expiry of the high-margin automotive contract. In addition, a special effect from energy derivatives in the amount of minus €9.2 million impacted CF earnings in the 1st quarter of 2022. However, the implemented energy price hedges enabled the business unit to maintain its production capability throughout the entire fiscal year, that the weakening of earnings was mitigated.
The Composite Solutions (CS) business unit confirmed its upward trend in fiscal 2022 with a 25.0% increase in sales to €153.1 million (previous year: €122.5 million). The most important market segment for the CS business unit is the automotive industry. In line with the highly positive business performance, EBITDApre of CS increased by 65.3% to €20.0 million (previous year: €12.1 million). This figure also includes non-recurring positive effects of €3.7 million from compensation payments received from automotive customers for premature project terminations.

The non-operating Corporate segment contributed €17.1 million to Group sales (previous year: €16.5 million). In line with continued strict cost management as part of the transformation, EBITDApre improved slightly to minus €18.8 million (previous year: minus €19.2 million).

Outlook
"If we summarize our expectations for the 2023 financial year, it can be summed up under the guiding principle: -invest and stabilize," CFO Thomas Dippold comments on the forecast for 2023.
For the fiscal year 2023 we continue to expect solid demand for our materials and products. In particular, we expect that the demand for special graphite products for high-temperature processes, e.g. in the semiconductor, solar and LED industries, will continue to increase. On the other hand, the first-time full-year effect from the expiry of a supply contract with an automotive customer in the carbon fiber segment and the sale of our business in Gardena (USA) will burden sales development.

"The increasing demand for high-performance semiconductors for electromobility or renewable forms of energy will also boost the demand of components made of graphite for the production of these semiconductors. To benefit from the related opportunities, we will expand our production capacities in this segment and invest a double-digit million amount in 2023 . Based on existing supply relationships, we will implement this investments partly together with our customers," explains CEO Dr. Torsten Derr.
On the cost side, we expect energy and raw material prices to remain at a high level in 2023, along with significant wage increases. Our forecast implies that higher factor costs can be partially passed on to customers through price initiatives.
Based on the assumptions described, we expect Group sales to be at prior-year level and EBITDApre to be between €160 million and €180 million in the financial year 2023.
In the medium term (until 2027), we anticipate a further improvement in our EBITDApre margin between 18% and 19%.

The steering committee for the Denim Deal has announced that Haelixa, the Swiss standard in physical traceability, is approved as a new signature. The Denim Deal is an international collaboration of more than 50 private and public sector companies united in the commitment to produce denim more circularly.

The Denim Deal aims to close the loop and achieve change in the value chain. Based in Amsterdam, the group is working towards a circular economy where textile waste no longer exists. The brand and manufacturing members pledge to work towards using 5% recycled post-consumer cotton in all future denim collections and produce 3 million denim jeans made with 20% recycled post-consumer cotton.

Coordination of the Denim Deal is led by Roosmarie Ruigrok, where the objective is to unite potential allies who have made the journey to circularity a priority. She has been working to improve sustainability in textiles for more than two decades and is an expert on enrolling the correct stakeholders to instigate change. Ruigrok states, "a circular supply chain in the textile industry is like a well-prepared machine - it ensures that every part of the production process runs smoothly, from sourcing post-consumer materials to delivering well-made finished products to customers. It not only drives efficiency and profitability but also builds trust among stakeholders and fosters sustainable practices - we welcome Haelixa who offers a trustful traceability solution."

Over the last few years, the demand for the technology in recycled denim has grown as brands are asked to validate their recycling claims. Haelixa’s unique DNA solution marks and traces fibers from the source to retail. Using DNA to mark the recycled post-consumer cotton, Haelixa substantiates claims by testing the final garment to validate that the marked waste is present.

The Denim Deal is pushing to lead the change in how denim is made. Changing the standards of operation is always challenging, and traceability is a key to authenticating recycled claims. “We are committed to promoting the use of recycled fibers through traceability and thrilled to align with this group,” said Holly Berger, Haelixa’s Marketing Director. “The goals of the Denim Deal support our vision for a circular economy.”

The Premium Group have announced a repositioning of its flagship trade shows PREMIUM and SEEK.
     
The first change is the relocation of the event to its iconic location: the Station Berlin. The venue is a historic place, which has served as the home of the Premium Group trade shows in the past.
The event will also be shortened to two days instead of three days, with new opening hours from 10 am - 10 pm including networking events and parties. This is a reflection of the changing times and the need to provide more efficient business and networking opportunities for exhibitors and visitors, maximizing their time and investment.

PREMIUM and SEEK will be held together and focus on curated trends, lifestyle brands, and sophisticated fashion collections. The CONSCIOUS CLUB remains one of Europe's biggest platforms for sustainability in fashion showcasing promosing brands and developments. Brands, retailers, and visitors can expect a more surprising, and streamlined event. The booth concept will be limited to a maximum size of 100 sqm, with a new sustainable booth system.

The summer editions of PREMIUM, SEEK, and the CONSCIOUS CLUB will take place on the 11th & 12th of July 2023 in Berlin.

The European Chemicals Agency invites interested parties to send in scientific and technical information on the manufacture, placing on the market and use of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) by 25 September 2023.

The six-month consultation on the restriction proposal, prepared by the Danish, German, Dutch, Norwegian and Swedish authorities, opens on 22 March 2023 and closes on 25 September 2023 (23:59 Helsinki time).

The consultation is to give anyone with information on PFAS the opportunity to have their say. Of particular interest is information relevant to the risks, socio-economic aspects and alternative substances.

ECHA’s scientific committees for Risk Assessment (RAC) and for Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC) will use the consultation input to evaluate the proposed restriction and form an opinion on it.

An online information session will be held on 5 April. During the session, experts from ECHA and the five national authorities will explain the restriction process, the content of the proposal and how to participate in the consultation. They will also respond to questions from the participants.

The five national authorities submitted the universal proposal to restrict PFAS to ECHA on 13 January. The European Commission, together with the EU Member States, will eventually decide on the potential restriction based on the proposal and the committees’ opinion.

January 2024 marks the official birth of ERCA TCS (Textile Chemical Solutions), a business unit of ERCA S.p.A. with a focus on the textile market. Founded in the 1960s, ERCA S.p.A. is an Italian company, present with six plants in three macro-regions: Europe, Latin America and Asia. The ERCA group produces specialty and auxiliary chemicals with a responsible innovation approach and its production covers several markets: textiles, cosmetics, polyurethanes, concrete.

Why a business unit that caters solely to the textile industry? The decision to give birth to ERCA TCS comes from the desire to be a unique and innovative reference point for ERCA's customers, with products and
services designed specifically for the needs of today's textile industry, grappling with the challenges and
opportunities of sustainability and responsible production.

ERCA TCS bases its activities on the principles of "Green Chemistry" with the aim of offering the textile industry chemical solutions that make the concepts of safety, performance and circularity a reality. The chemical auxiliaries of ERCA TCS are the result of a vision that incorporates responsible innovation, continuous research, and a desire to offer to the market effective yet ethically, environmentally, and economically sustainable solutions.

The green, high tech and circular commitment of ERCA TCS is demonstrated by a product and brand range that is totally based on the circular economy, which started from a problem - the disposal of used vegetable oil - and turned it into a resource, into a raw material for the production of chemical auxiliaries for the textile industry: REVECOL®, the circular range of high-performance, made-in-Italy, GRS-certified chemical auxiliaries. The REVECOL® range can be used on any type of fiber, recycled or not.

RadiciGroup presented Biofeel® Eleven, a yarn of natural origin, at the Performance Days trade fair (from March 15-16 in Munich). Biofeel® Eleven is sourced from castor oil and is suitable for obtaining bio-polymer. It can be used for fabrics and fine garments in many sectors, from fashion to sports, from automotive to home textiles.

Today, 80% of the world's castor-oil plantations are in India, particularly in the Gujarat region, due to its favourable climatic conditions. In this area, local people can earn an additional income by cultivating semi-arid land that does not compete with food production, and by applying the skills they have acquired over time to this work. Over the years, thanks to research, development and innovation in the value chain, the seeds from which the oil is produced have been selected and certified to ensure the finest quality, also in terms of end uses.

Castor beans contain around 45% oil, rich in ricinolein, from which the bio-polymer polyamide 11 is derived. This is the polymer RadiciGroup uses for its Biofeel® Eleven yarn. What remains after the first pressing is a highly effective bio-fertiliser that is returned to the soil.

Biofeel® Eleven can also be solution dyed, i.e. dyed at the yarn production stage, saving a great deal of water and energy and also providing greater colour stability.

• TreeToTextile sustainable textile fibre demo plant in Sweden

TreeToTextile, owned by H&M Group, Inter IKEA Group, Stora Enso, and LSCS Invest, invested €35 million in constructing a textile fiber process technology demonstration plant in Sweden. AFRY supported TreeToTextile throughout the project in the development and implementation phases from 2016-2022. The demonstration plant is now in the start-up phase.

TreeToTextile is offering a new technology to produce bio-based textile fibers with a low environmental footprint and aims to make sustainable textile fibers available to all. The new fiber is a regenerated cellulosic fiber, produced from renewable and sustainably sourced raw materials from forests. TreeToTextile has invested €35 million in developing and constructing a new demonstration plant in Nymölla, Sweden. This investment is a crucial step prior to the scale-up and commercialization of this technology.

AFRY has been the leading consultant and engineering partner of TreeToTextile from its early stages of project development in 2016, continuing onto demo plant implementation engineering from 2020-2022 In the project development phase, AFRY’s assignment included several pre-feasibility and feasibility studies, process design, up-scaling evaluations, and supplier pilot runs planning. In the demo plant implementation phase, AFRY was responsible for the engineering, project management and site services, also providing many additional services like permit and procurement support as well as machine and IT solutions.

“AFRY and TreeToTextile have a long-lasting, mutually developing relationship that we hope to continue. Together with AFRY, we have overcome the challenges through close collaboration, flexibility, broad competence and most important of all, mutual commitment”, says Olli Ylä-Jarkko, CTO at TreeToTextile.

The commissioning of the demonstration plant started in the summer of 2022, and the project was handed over to TreeToTextile for start-up and further optimization of the process.

“I’m proud of the deep and long-lasting cooperation with TreeToTextile. This project shows AFRY’s ability and wide competence to meet various demands of customer investment projects – from early phase development to implementation. AFRY’s long experience with bio-based materials, combined with our extensive process industry and project execution experience, makes us a unique partner for industrial clients in accelerating their bio-based fibers to scalable commercial production”, says Lisa Vedin, Head of Process Industries Sweden at AFRY.