From the Sector

Founded in 2013, NOPINZ is a UK-based manufacturer of clothing for cyclists and triathletes. The company's first product was the ‘SpeedPocket’, a product that allows competitors to attach their race numbers more easily (and with ‘no pins’) while improving the all-important aerodynamics. Soon recognising the customer demand for premade attire with incorporated number pockets, the company embarked on a mission to manufacture these new product lines itself. Today, NOPINZ boasts a diverse portfolio, with 60% of its products made in-house, catering to a growing customer base across the UK and international markets. NOPINZ creates speed suits for some of the world’s top cycling teams, as well as competitive amateurs.

NOPINZ places a strong emphasis on sustainability and is committed to minimising its environmental impact. Using a microfactory approach gives better oversight and control of the manufacturing process, including sourcing materials sustainably and locally where possible, reducing transportation, and improving access to recycling. “Our ‘zero to landfill’ policy, means that we reduce our wastage where possible and either recycle or donate excess product to charity,” Blake adds. “We hope to become a B-Corp company in the future.”

“We tested out a few printers, before we ultimately settled on Mimaki,” Blake Pond, the founder of NOPINZ explained. Now the company’s line-up entirely consists of Mimaki’s textile dye sublimation solutions.
“During our search we prioritised the ability to produce fluorescence and accurately replicate colours. Customers often come to us with existing kit made by other manufacturers, which they want to match, so accurately replicating colour is extremely important. And even without existing kit, customers occasionally ask for specific pantone colours. When it comes to cycling kit, colour is often pivotal when considering where to buy from.”

As two flagship dye sublimation printers, both the TS300P-1800 and TS55-1800 are equipped to print on the various technical fabrics that are needed for cycling attire and faithfully reproduce colours to meet customer expectations.

Since 1967, ‘OETI - Institute for Ecology, Technology and Innovation’ has made a name for itself worldwide as an accredited and notified centre of excellence. With decades of experience as a service provider, the company specialises in the testing and certification of textiles, leather, personal protective equipment (PPE), floor coverings and interior furnishing materials. It also assesses indoor air quality. As a founding member of the international OEKO-TEX® association (1992) and official OEKO-TEX® testing institute, OETI also comprises the entire OEKO-TEX® product portfolio.

Between its own international branches and the branches of OETI’s Swiss parent company, TESTEX AG, OETI’s network of locations spans several continents. Recently, one more branch has been added in Pakistan (headquartered in Faisalabad).
OETI Pakistan is managed by Akhlaq Hussain, who has decades of experience in the textile and apparel industry for testing, inspection, certification, auditing, product safety, training and sustainability management.

Akhlaq Hussain’s main goal is to ‘create visibility for the OETI brand in Pakistan. We want to offer sustainable, reliable, and competitive services to Pakistan’s textile industry. My aim is to foster Pakistan’s exports by offering more sustainable certifications and training in environmental and social topics as well as due diligence in supply chains, which are in high demand in European countries.’

Markus Lang’s - OETI’s Global Head of Marketing & Sales – main goal is to ‘increase the awareness of sustainability within Pakistan’s textile and leather industry, which is also the main objective of our future development.’

ISKO provided their latest innovation in material science to British designers, Priya Ahluwalia, Masha Popova, Chet Lo and Aaron Esh, for the London Fashion Week SS24 season.

Alongside supplying their latest denim fabrics, ISKO opened its doors to its London-based product development centre, Creative Room London, for finishing and washing of their final designs as well providing expertise and knowledge in denim design and construction.

Priya Ahluwalia
For Ahluwalia’s Spring Summer 24 collection, entitled Acknowledgements, Creative Director and founder Priya Ahluwalia’s research led her on a journey of creative rediscovery.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric, which is made entirely from recycled and regenerated fibres, was used to create the flower motif denim showcase within 3 looks across jeans and jackets. This development contains no virgin cotton and uses a minimum of 60% recycled materials and the remainder is regenerated cellulose fibres while still giving a look and feel identical to traditional denim and speaks to Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design and business practices.

Chet Lo
This season, Chet Lo took an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined differences instead of celebrating them.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric and specialist lasering techniques from ISKO’s Creative Room was used across three looks featuring signature Chet Lo erotic laser prints across denim bottoms.

Aaron Esh
The SS24 season marked the brand’s debut at London Fashion Week, a homecoming of sorts for Esh, who was born and raised in the heart of the British capital, studied at Central Saint Martins and became a finalist at the LVMH Prize earlier this year. The early impulses of Aaron Esh remain steadfast: clothes that combine establishment rigour with the rebellious spirit of youth culture, devotedly crafted for a generation who feels somewhere in-between.
Aaron created bootleg denim ripped jeans made entirely from ISKO Denim using R-TWO50 fabric, which comprises a minimum of 50% pre and post-consumer recycled content. The designer noted the addition of denim accompanied by leathers add a new level of depth to their latest collection.

Masha Popova
Masha Popova’s sophomore catwalk outing, MONSTER was a “seasonless” offering that combines Autumn Winter 2023 and Spring Summer 2024.
Masha continued her obsession with denim manipulation, using various finishings including over-dyeing, flocking, patchwork, scratching and fraying in a variety of colours from vibrant green to silver across jeans, tops and jackets, all developed with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room, London.

International technology group ANDRITZ has successfully started up the new carding machine and opening/blending line it delivered to Albis in Roasio, Vercelli, Italy.

With its large working width of 5.10 meters, the machine allows for the production of nonwoven fabrics tailored to specific customer requirements while maintaining excellent properties and consistent quality. One example is Albis Curacell ®, a multilayer composite nonwoven fabric in a weight range between 35 and 70 gsm that is produced with a fully water-free patented process and is able to absorb liquid flows of over seven times its own weight. The production line also includes an advanced upstream opening and blending system from ANDRITZ.

Albis, a privately owned group founded in Italy in 1995 by Gianni Boscolo, has been a major player in the nonwoven market for over three decades. Through continuous research and development, the company offers innovative, high-quality nonwoven solutions across various sectors, including hygiene, medical, personal care, textiles, filtration, and agriculture.

More than 4 400 organisations, companies and individuals submitted comments and information on the proposal to restrict per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in the European Economic Area.

At the end of the consultation on 25 September, ECHA had received more than 5 600 comments from more than 4 400 organisations, companies and individuals.

The comments will be checked by ECHA's scientific committees for Risk Assessment (RAC) and Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC), and those providing relevant evidence-based information will be considered in the opinion making process.

The five countries who prepared the initial proposal will also review the consultation input and may update their initial proposal based on it.

Many comments submitted during the consultation are already published on ECHA’s website. Information indicated as confidential by the consultee is not made public. Comments received very close to the deadline are currently being processed and will be published shortly.

Next steps
RAC and SEAC are evaluating the proposed restriction and considering the relevant information received through the consultation. The committees develop their independent, scientific opinions over a series of meetings, where draft opinions are discussed. Attention is given to all aspects and impacted sectors.

ECHA will deliver the final opinions to the European Commission in the shortest possible timeframe, while ensuring proper scrutiny by the scientific committees. Once the committees adopt their opinions, they will be communicated to the public.

The Commission, together with the EU Member States, will decide on the restriction.

Background
The restriction proposal was prepared by authorities in Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden. It was submitted to ECHA on 13 January 2023. It aims to reduce PFAS emissions into the environment and make products and processes safer for people. The six-month consultation ran from 22 March to 25 September 2023.

Further information
•    Consultation comments
•    Restriction on the manufacture, placing on the market and use of PFAS
•    Topical page on PFAS
•    REACH restriction process

Coloreel has signed a two million dollar deal with a prominent Asian manufacturer. This agreement is a milestone for Coloreel and its innovative product.

The new partnership underscores Coloreel's capacity to meet the growing demand for innovative and sustainable solutions among manufacturers and brands worldwide. While the initial delivery of the on-demand digital thread-dying units is set for October this year, the majority of the volume will be shipped during 2024.

The Swedish company has rapidly gained recognition for its pioneering innovation in embroidery. The technology enables manufacturers to instantly dye a white thread into an unlimited spectrum of colors, all in real-time. At the same time, the technology makes production more efficient by using digital processes and automation, while saving up to 97% of water compared to traditional thread dyeing.

In August 2023, Australian Research Council (ARC) Chief Research Officer Professor Christina Twomey officially launched the ARC Research Hub for Functional and Sustainable Fibres.

Through collaboration with 16 domestic and international Partner Organisations, the team at the ARC Research Hub will be conducting research across three core themes – Sustainability, Circular Economies, and Extraordinary Functionality.

Led by Deakin University, the ARC Research Hub aims to harness Australia’s research capacity in fibre, textiles, and composite materials to develop materials with enhanced functionality, meeting Australian consumer and industrial demand for advanced fibre capabilities including recycling and re-purposing textile waste.
 
Professor Twomey said that the ARC Research Hub is fundamental to increasing collaboration between Australia’s most innovative researchers and vital industries.

“The ARC has a proud history of supporting outstanding research that benefits the Australian community, and the ARC Research Hub for Functional and Sustainable Fibres is a great example of this,” Professor Twomey said.
 
“In collaboration with industry partners, the research team are building on the work undertaken by the ARC Research Hub for a World-class Future Fibre Industry which ended in 2021 – this continued success is no easy feat.

“This new ARC Research Hub will strengthen productivity and competitiveness of the advanced manufacturing sector and will place Australia at the forefront of a global shift towards functional and sustainable materials.”
 
The ARC is investing $5 million over 5 years under the ARC Industrial Transformation Research Program.

It is expected that the ARC Research Hub will address the immediate need to reduce industry’s reliance on petroleum-derived materials and to reduce the environmental impact of supply chains.

The continued weak development of the markets relevant to Lenzing, coupled with very cautious market expectations in 2023, requires a reassessment of Lenzing AG’s macroeconomic environment.

Taking into account the current lack of market recovery, the previous earnings forecast is not expected to be achieved. The Lenzing Group is therefore adjusting its forecast for earnings development and is assuming EBITDA in a range of EUR 270 mn to EUR 330 mn for the 2023 financial year.

CEO Stephan Sielaff: “The recovery expected for the second half of the year in the markets relevant to us has not yet occurred. This makes the early measures we took all the more correct. We launched an ambitious cost reduction program back in November 2022, which delivered the expected results ahead of schedule. Building on this, we are implementing a holistic and consistent value creation program with a focus on measures to strengthen profitability and cash flow generation and to exploit the growth potential in the fiber markets through targeted sales activities.”

The Lenzing Group will announce further details about the value creation program when it publishes its quarterly results on November 3, 2023.

•    First production supercar created with Hypetex coloured carbon fibre
•    Paint-replacement technology reduces weight to enhance performance

British car manufacturer Briggs Automotive Company (BAC) has created a unique Hypetex coloured carbon fibre version of its Mono R, reducing the weight by removing the need for paint.  

The original BAC Mono R was created to be lighter and more powerful than the standard model, with 343bhp and 555kg total weight, equating to a power-to-weight ratio of 618bhp-per-tonne. By removing the need for paint coatings in this version, the net weight of the exterior is reduced compared to a painted shell, resulting in a further improved overall performance.

The car’s body was created using Hypetex’s titanium carbon fibre twill, and finished with a crystalized lacquer, offering a unique aesthetic finish. The ultra-lightweight supercar can accelerate from zero to 60mph in less than 2.5 seconds.  

Hypetex’s paint-replacement technology retains the visible weave, allowing for a bold design and a choice of colours without technical compromises, perfectly aligning with BAC’s initiatives to maximise performance whilst creating bespoke supercars. Paint generally adds 138 grams per metre squared, whereas Hypetex adds just 17 grams for the same area, offering an 8x weight saving.
This bespoke version of BAC’s single-seater Mono R was subject to BAC’s renowned BAC Bespoke programme, which ensures that no two Monos are the same. The client, a US-based collector, worked with BAC’s design team to design the car to their personal taste.   

Born out of Formula 1 technology, Hypetex offers manufacturers sustainable aesthetic materials with technical and efficiency benefits. This collaboration is an all-British success story, with the Hypetex carbon fibre body built by Formaplex, a leading UK-based manufacturing company who manufacture lightweight engineered solutions for top tier customers in Automotive, Aerospace and Defence markets. BAC’s supply chain is 95% UK-based.  

Hypetex continues to expand its growing portfolio of the use of coloured carbon fibre to add personalisation to the automotive field, with its material recently featured on the 2024 Ford Mustang Dark Horse.  

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, is partnering with the Waterloo Filtration Institute to deliver the FiltXPO™ technical program on October 10-11, 2023 in Chicago, Illinois. The Waterloo Filtration Institute was instrumental in recommending program topics and world-class presenters.

Engineers, scientists, and industry professionals will gain the latest insights into the filtration and separation topics affecting the industry today and into the future. The program features presentations include: filter media technologies, advancements and opportunities in filtration machinery and equipment, innovations in clean air for homes and urban areas, standards and testing, industry trends and new developments, and filtration challenges and opportunities.

The keynote for this year’s event is “IAQ Is the New Black” presented by Suzanne Shelton, President & CEO, Shelton Group. Shelton will share the latest data around consumer views on health, safety, people, and the planet. Participants will gain an understanding of the filtration opportunities and the challenges manufacturers face in communicating the value of their products.

A preview of the subject matter experts includes:

• AAF Flanders – “Air Filter Standards Activity and What It Means for Innovation”
• Ahlstrom – “Expanding Wetlaid Filtration Media Performance Through Innovation”
• Air Techniques International – “Application of Automated Filter Tester in Quality Control Testing: Importance of Consistent Aerosol Particle Size Distribution”
• American Truetzschler, Inc. – “How Really Good Filter Media Is Made”
• CEREX Advanced Fabrics – “The Antimicrobial Nylon Advantage”
• Elsner Engineering Works, Inc. – “When Does Automation Make Sense”
• Hollingsworth & Vose – “Accelerating Membrane Adoption with ROI”
• INDA – “Beyond Porter’s Five Forces – When Regulation Reshapes Markets”
• MANN+HUMMEL GmbH – “Filtration for Cleaner Urban Mobility – Introducing Horizon Europe Innovation Action Aersolfd”
• NatureWorks – “Optimizing Biopolymers to Improve Filter Performance – A Spectrum of Approaches and Opportunities”
• Palas GmbH – “Influence of Temperature and Humidity to Filter Efficiency and Dust Holding Capacity”
• Ptak Consulting – “Residential Filtration – Performance Against Infectious Aerosols”
• The University of Georgia – “Recent Advances in Melt Blown Nonwovens and Filter Media Research”

New this year to FiltXPO are Lightning Talks. Lightning Talks are an opportunity to connect with new trends, products, innovations, and ideas with speakers rotating every eight minutes. Presenting companies include Ahlstrom, Elsner Engineering Works, Inc., Gottlieb Binder GmbH, TSI, and the Waterloo Filtration Institute.

The FiltXPO exhibition takes place October 10-12 and will run concurrently with the technical program.