From the Sector

Technology transfer that is creating waves

For more than a decade now, the Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group has been hosting a comprehensive technology symposium at the beginning of each year in the Indian region around Silvassa/Daman. Numerous Indian manmade fiber producers have settled in this area, around a four-hour drive north of Mumbai. Fed from Oerlikon polycondensation and extrusion systems, these companies manufacture polyester, nylon and polypropylene on large-scale installations with Oerlikon Barmag WINGS POY, WINGS FDY, IDY and DTY product lines and using Oerlikon Neumag’s staple fiber and BCF technologies. Reason enough for the Manmade Fibers segment’s experts to regularly provide their clientèle with detailed specialist presentations in India on the latest developments of the product and service portfolio.

And this was once again the case at the event held at the beginning of 2020, where around 450 managers and employees from local businesses took the opportunity to exchange ideas and information. For the third time in succession, Oerlikon also entered into dialog with the next generation of managers at major Indian polyester and nylon manufacturers in a separate event hosted in Mumbai beforehand. The technology symposium was again held – for the very first time – just a few days later and in a slightly modified form at a second venue: in Kolkata in West Bengal, a potential second future key location for manufacturing manmade fibers in India according to plans revealed by the Indian government. Here, the discussions held by the Oerlikon experts focused above all on the transfer of technologies for manufacturing polyester, nylon and polypropylene. Oerlikon is able to offer the entire process chain – from the melt to the textured yarn or the fibers and including the necessary semi- and fullyautomated logistics process – from a single source. This is of interest above all for potential new customers and investors in West Bengal and neighboring Bangladesh, as some do not have decades of expertise in manufacturing manmade fibers, as is the case for most companies in the region around Silvassa/Daman.

For the sixth time now, Oerlikon Nonwoven will be showcasing market- and customer-oriented solutions for hygiene, medical, filtration and other technical applications at the globally-leading nonwovens trade fair INDEX in Geneva, Switzerland. Between March 31 and April 3, 2020, visitors to the trade fair can convince themselves of the Neumünsterbased systems constructor’s extensive product and process know-how.

Comprehensive spunbond portfolio – always the right solution
Oerlikon Nonwoven meanwhile has a very broad range of spunbond technology products and services. The process for manufacturing geotextiles from polyester or polypropylene has been optimized; it is characterized by high production capacities and yields, with simultaneously low energy consumption for producing benchmark nonwoven products.

For the manufacture of hygiene nonwovens, Oerlikon Nonwoven offers its new QSR (Quality Sized Right) systems. Here, the benefits of the Chinese machine construction partner’s nonwoven formation are integrated into the complete solution. The advantage for nonwovens producers: highly competitive solutions at attractive prices with comparably low investment.

Cost-efficiently manufacturing meltblown nonwovens
New, unique and highly sophisticated filter media can be easily and efficiently manufactured thanks to Oerlikon Nonwoven’s optimized meltblown technology. Whether as a stand-alone system with one or several positions, as ‘plug & produce’ installations for already existing systems or in conjunction with other technologies: the Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown process already enables the cost-efficient manufacture of meltblown nonwovens with the quality requirements of tomorrow. Ever more producers are choosing the meanwhile extensively tried-and-tested and consistently further-developed Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown solutions.

Airlaid technology for the nonwovens of tomorrow
Pulp or cellulose fibers as raw material for manufacturing nonwovens are currently virtually unrivaled with regards to sustainability and environmental compatibility. The Oerlikon Nonwoven airlaid process is the ideal solution for processing this raw material into high-end products for a wide range of applications. Today, there is huge demand for manufacturing solutions for high-quality, lightweight airlaid nonwovens with economically attractive production speeds and system throughputs. In this area, the patented Oerlikon Nonwoven formation process – which also permits the homogeneous mixing of the most diverse raw materials, while simultaneously guaranteeing superb evenness and homogeneous fiber laying – is setting standards even for nonwovens with low running meter weights. And the benefits of this technology are also increasingly gaining significance in sustainable recycling applications.

P&G patented PHANTOM technology from Teknoweb Materials
Also being showcased at the trade fair stand is the P&G patented PHANTOM technology from Teknoweb Materials, Oerlikon Nonwoven’s strategic partner for hygiene products and wipes. The PHANTOM technology is released to Teknoweb Materials by P&G in worldwide exclusive license. The PHANTOM technology is the superior dry laid alternative technology for manufacturing wet wipes from pulp and polymer fibers, for example. Compared to conventional, known processes, this technology offers superior performances with cost advantage in much more eco-friendly products. Dispensing with hydroentanglement renders subsequent drying of the material redundant. Targeted process management allows the optimal setting of the relevant product parameters such as softness, tenacity, dirt absorption and liquid absorption.

The Trevira CS joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 was once again a success.

Trevira looks back on a successful trade fair appearance at Heimtexil 2020. The concept of a joint booth together with customers along with the presentation of product innovations and a special exhibition dedicated to the contract sector has once again proved its worth. Trevira hosted 31 co-exhibitors thus increasing the number of participants again compared to last year. Members of the entire textile value chain were present at the Trevira stand: from the fibre production and yarn manufacture, to the colouring, weaving and warp and weft knitting stages, to the textile editor.

Klaus Holz, CEO Trevira GmbH: „We are pleased about the very positive feedback we got on our joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 from our customers and the visitors to our stand. It shows that our concept is successful and that the booth works well as a market place for Trevira CS.”

Product novelties were presented in an Innovation Park. Under the headline “Recycling at Trevira” the fibre producer presented its sustainable product range and diversified approaches to recycling: flame retardant fibres are produced from residual materials, which are reprocessed in an agglomeration plant. The recyclates are then deployed in the spinning facility to make new, high-quality products consisting of 100 % pre-consumer recycled material. Recycled, flame retardant filaments are produced from PET bottles and have a recycled content of 50 %. Standard polyester spun-dyed filament yarns are also available in a recycled version. Produced from PET bottles these yarns have a recycled content of 100 %.

In order to produce flame retardant fabrics which are also high-performing  in outdoor applications, Trevira now offers six more colours in addition to the existing colour range of 24 UV-stable, spun-dyed filament yarns. Trevira had been awarded the „Brandenburger Innovationspreis Kunststoffe und Chemie 2019“ for this innovation.

Cationic dyeable fibres and filament yarns enhance the Trevira portfolio of flame retardant specialties. They are used to create melange designs in fabrics, which still represents a strong trend in the home textile sector.

To meet the ever more complex demands of the market for more flexibility in design and additional functions as well as for sustainable products Trevira has introduced an enhanced Trevira CS branding concept, consisting of the three brands Trevira CS, Trevira CS flex und Trevira CS eco. Assigned according to product features, all of them stand for tested safety.

In the latest short film released on the Monforts YouTube Channel – captured at the recent Denim Première Vision show in London – some of the leading global manufacturers discuss their initiatives for more sustainable denim production.

Cone Denim, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, for example, can lay claim to having put in place its first environmental control measures back in the 1940s when the company first started recycling its water.

“It was a method of efficiency even back then, eighty years ago,” says Gabriel Magopat, of the company’s UK customer service centre, “but  producing high quality products is another method of being sustainable and of being efficient, and I think that’s what Cone stands for. We have an amazing history.”

Cone Denim is known for its signature S Gene® stretch denims which have traditionally incorporated polyester components to provide the stretch. It has now partnered with Intrinsic Advanced Materials of Gastonia, also in North Carolina, to introduce patent-pending CiCLO stretch polyester fibres into its denim collections. 

While still being synthetic based, CiCLO polyester is able to biodegrade in marine environments, wastewater treatment plants and landfill conditions, at rates similar to natural fibres like wool. 

This more sustainable solution for stretch is also being introduced to China for the first time by another leading denim supplier, Advance Denim.

“Advance Denim is spending its resources on being the most technologically advanced company in China, and also the most sustainable,” says Mark Ix, the company’s Director of Marketing. “We are investing heavily in our manufacturing to save both water and chemicals to create cleaner products.”

Monforts denim customer Berto is a family-owned company with its main denim mill in Bovolenta, a small rural town near to Padua in the north east of Italy, where respect for the environment has always been a must.

“The family has always been focused on respect for the environment,” says Berto’s Marketing Manager Francesca Palento. “In particular, we have a river next to the company from which we take our water for production and we then return it cleaner than it was before. We are also now producing GOTS and Global Recycling Standard jean produced with yarns made from our own internal waste production.”

Pakistan’s Soorty has recently received Cradle to Cradle Gold certification – the most stringent and exacting sustainable standard currently in existence – for its Pure D range of denims. These are produced using the company’s proprietary Zero Waste Water dyeing technology, in combination with the most advanced Monforts finishing machines. 

“Our very latest collection is called Climate Jeans, because every single product we now produce draws attention to the climate emergency we are living through right now,” says Eda Dikman, Soorty’s Marketing Communications Manager. “Sustainability is very important to us because we produce at scale and all of the actions we take reflect on the planet.”

Kornit’s Avalanche Poly Pro system “offers the best possible quality” for consumers demanding custom-decorated polyester and poly-blend apparel
January 8, 2020, Englewood, New Jersey – Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, announced that GEAR for Sports, a division of Hanesbrands Inc., has installed a Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro system to supplement previously-implemented Kornit Digital direct-to-garment (DTG) print systems within the company’s Lenexa, Kansas production facility.

GEAR for Sports sells its products under some of the most powerful brands in sportswear, including Under Armour®, Champion®, Alternative Apparel, Hanes, and Gear for Sports®. This compelling portfolio of brands allows GEAR to provide a longstanding history of quality graphics and innovative apparel design, giving customers a single resource for all their sportswear needs. Installing Avalanche Poly Pro, which integrates Kornit’s proprietary NeoPoly print technology with the brand’s production strategy, will enable them to custom-print poly rich garments on demand.

GEAR for Sports has implemented three Kornit DTG print systems in the last two years. Having established a process for delivering imprinted cotton garments on demand, and further answering the voice of its customers, the brand decided to expand these capabilities to polyester and poly-blend pieces.

“We’ve been inviting key customers to our facility to demonstrate what the Poly Pro equipment can do, as we expand our digital printing capability throughout our facility,” said Cindy Olivarez, Director of Operations—Customs and Logistics with GEAR for Sports. “Digital printing is an ever-growing business and is key to our business initiatives. Having the ability to print polyester t-shirts one unit at a time will allow us to gain consumers who want poly rich garments, and Kornit’s Poly Pro system offers the best possible quality to allow GEAR for Sports to expand our direct-to-garment business.”

• Kiian Digital will present the latest update of “Bellagio” reactive inks
• The series promises unexpected performance and efficiency

JK Group will attend Heimtextil (7 – 10 January 2020 Frankfurt am Main) – the global event for interior textiles trends – through Kiian Digital brand, revealing the last update of Digistar Bellagio reactive ink series alongside the complete product portfolio designed for Textile Printing.

Bellagio series will benefit from a custom-made waveform for MS's printing machines. “Our R&D Teams have done a long fine-tuning on the formula, working side by side with MS Team to setup a bespoke waveform, reaching top printing performance” explains Marco Girola, JK & MS Marketing and Communication Manager “this is the outcome of the synergic job among the teams, making the difference” ends Girola.

The custom-made waveform is a keynote of Bellagio series which offers an unmatched result in terms of reliability, lower wear of printheads and quality of prints outcome.  At the booth visitors will attend live-demos of Bellagio printing by a MS JP4 EVO 3200 printing machine.

Next to Digistar Bellagio series there will be Digistar Bravo.

Disperse ink for polyester direct printing which has recorded great success since its debut. Even Bravo series shows a customized waveform developed for MS's printing machines. Bravo is Kiian Digital’s flagship for printing home textile fabrics thanks to the absolute level of its general fastness: washing, light and rubbing; as well as the wide color range. JK Group’s experts will explain to visitors the uniqueness and benefits of the customized waveform on quality and production efficiency. Lastly, a space dedicated to Digistar K-Choice, textile direct pigment series, cannot miss.

For the Textile Industry, making every production’s step more sustainable has become a must and it has always been a priority commitment for JK Group. Our experts will not fail to deepen topics about textile standards and compliance with the worldwide most restrictive regulations, helping to make the choice of a textile sustainable production chain concrete and aware.

C.L.A.S.S. discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how smart materials are able to deliver eco hi-tech valuable innovations. 

Five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Among the first adopters of E.C.O. Kosmos shines Gilberto Calzolari, a luxury prêt-à-porter brand Made in Italy with a responsible soul, whose style is represented by the demi-couture dress: fresh, glamorous and romantic. Precious fabrics, complemented by the highest quality in production techniques and tailoring craftsmanship, bear the hallmarks of a brand with a strong identity that is in tune with the needs of contemporary living and reclaims the values of environmental sustainability as well as elegance and excellence typical of luxury Made in Italy. Supported by the CNMI Fashion Trust due to its environmental committment and unique design, the brand chose two materials of the E.C.O. KOSMOS cross-collection for the SS 2020 presented during MFW: the E.C.O. AURORA 50% AMNI SOUL ECO® -50% Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified Cotton canvas and the E.C.O. SONICA Newlife™ stretch satin.

Closed: the German brand, founded in1978, focuses on great designs, small details and pure quality to create understated and advanced denim looks totally handmade in Italy. Closed selected the new amazing Candiani ReLast line, the range of market fresh responsible denim products whose objective is to introduce a 100% transformed innovative solution. The partnership between ROICA™ and Candiani generated a very special ROICA™ yarn realized only for Candiani. A premium stretch yarn that is boasting a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) version 4 certification, thanks to its high percentage of recycled content and appropriated process of transformation.

Within the premium brand adoptions of Bemberg™ shines Martin Greenfield, one of the world's most renowned tailor company. The company, founded in 1977 by Martin Greenfield, realizes hand tailored men’s clothing to meet the requirements of innovative designers, specialty retailers, costume designers, stylists and individuals. For finest made-to-order as well as made-to-measure suits,100% built by hand in their Brooklyn Factory, they choose Bemberg™ Yarn Dyed Lining produced in Italy and Japan for its soft versatility, unique precious touch and exquisite comfort.

My.Suit: Since My.Suit was founded in 2008 in NYC, their philosophy has been simple: provide their clients with a better way to buy a suit.  Their made-to-measure suits and tuxedos offer a better fit than traditional off-the-rack alternatives by accommodating as many different body types as possible, and can be made in a variety of fabric and style options to suit individual needs.  My.Suit utilizes a vertical business model: fabric mill, suit manufacturing, and retail locations, to provide a quick delivery time at an attractive price point. My.Suit has been using Bemberg™ lining to add style and comfort to their suit jackets for over a decade.  With a wide range of colors and designs, Bemberg lining complements their extensive fabric selection and helps us to create visually stunning suits that feel great and provides a personalized option to their clients.

un-sanctioned™ is an innovation-driven performance running apparel brand newly launched in September, 2019; founded on the belief that it’s time for running to give back to the environment all runners take so much joy from.  In partnership with Miti-Spa, un-sanctioned™ has developed and launched with two initial sustainable performance running fabrics called [ BottleKnit™ ] — a 100% recycled polyester made from plastic bottles. And [ WasteKnit™] — a 100% upcycled polyamide made from industrial waste blended with ROICA™ EF yarn for uncompromising smart stretch performance.

Special features: over 30 top clients at a joint stand and a special exhibition highlighting trendsetting textile concepts for the contract market

Trevira, which manufactures high-quality, flame retardant polyester fibres, will be repeating its successful joint booth concept at the upcoming Heimtextil fair, due to take place from 7-10 January 2020 in Frankfurt. Together with 32 of its major customers, Trevira will be located on a stand of over 2000 msq in Hall 4.2.

The participants of the Trevira CS joint stand will cover the entire textile value chain: from the fibre production and yarn manufacture, to the colouring, weaving and warp and weft knitting stages, to the textile editor. Trevira’s customers will present their latest Trevira CS products for home and contract textiles at individual stands, demonstrating their contribution to the value chain. This year, Trevira welcomes a new partner to its Heimtextil stand, design and engineering specialist ima-tuve.

“We’re excited that our joint fair booth has proved to be so popular and that we are increasing the number of Trevira CS customers joining us for Heimtextil year on year. This means that we can once again look forward to displaying the extensive range of possibilities and applications available in Trevira CS,” said Trevira CEO Klaus Holz.

Trevira’s joint booth, which will be situated in Hall 4.2, immediately next to the Messe Frankfurt exhibition “Interior. Architecture. Hospitality”, will also feature a special showcase, “Textile Future by Trevira CS” especially for the contract market. To curate this special display, Trevira is proud to have secured a collaborative partnership with renowned Berlin design company studio aisslinger. The studio is known for its outstanding work in experimental and product design, innovative materials and architectural concepts.  As a designer, studio founder Werner Aisslinger is particularly interested in how the newest technologies and unusual materials can be integrated into product design. Besides a focus on furniture, his most recent projects include interior design concepts for hotels and workspaces.

Eco-friendly dyeing auxiliary saves time, water and energy by enabling pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing in a single-bath
Huntsman Textile Effects introduces the breakthrough ERIOPON® E3-SAVE dyeing auxiliary for the new “single-bath scour-dye-reduction clear concept” providing the shortest possible processing cycle for polyester thus saving time, water, energy and cost.

The demand for polyester and man-made fibers is booming as sports and athleisure apparel markets expand rapidly around the world. At the same time, brands, consumers and mills are increasingly focused on sustainability and performance resulting in raising demand for optimization of the costly, time consuming and resource intensive polyester dyeing process.

Developed by Huntsman Textile Effects specifically to meet these challenges, the advanced all-in-one ERIOPON® E3-SAVE dyeing auxiliary is engineered to help the mills achieve considerable savings in the water, energy and time for the intensive process of dyeing polyester and its blends by combining pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing in a single bath.

PIAVE MAITEX, recognized as a preferred partner for the global textile industry, brings on the successful path of responsible and smart innovation and presents its unique line “AGAIN”, during the MarediModa fair in Cannes.

During the Functional Fabric Fair, the trade-exclusive event where the latest trends in fabric development for the functional textile industry are showcased, PIAVE MAITEX presents AGAIN a smart and technically advanced line, that balances performances, functionality and sustainable features, formed of highly performing jerseys. Two premium Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified sustainable ingredients have been involved in the production of AGAIN: the premium stretch fiber ROICA™ EF – part of ROICA Eco-Smart™ Family – constructed out with more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content and perPETual high quality sustainable polyester born from a cost-effective process that reverses engineer consumer waste PET bottles.

In addition to the two key high-tech, responsible and GRS certified raw materials, the Italian manufacturer will present a new development characterized by sustainable water-saving printing, with the possibility to be color-customized. Moreover PIAVE MAITEX will showcase the unique and innovative combination of two AGAIN articles to obtain an entirely sustainable bonded fabric with the possibility of personalized colour combinations. The range of functional fabrics, dyeable and transfer printable, perfectly combines creativity, innovation, real performance and sustainability all at once offering unparalleled comfort, performance, and tenacity.