From the Sector

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, will be participating in the International Textile Machinery Association exhibition (ITMA 2023) in Milan, Italy this June.

The Next-Generation group of machines is represented by the letter ‘R,’ first used in the SWG-XR WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine launched last year in time for SHIMA SEIKI's 60th Anniversary event. The SWG-XR name is based on the original SWG-X four-needlebed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine which debuted at the Milan ITMA in 1995. As ITMA returns to Milan, SWG-XR refers to its origin as a pioneering invention that launched a new genre of seam-free knits produced in one entire piece. At the same time it represents a renewal of SHIMA SEIKI's commitment to its customers, the industry and the environment, as all aspects of the machine were re-evaluated in terms of its purpose, the way it is manufactured, how it is used and how it impacts the environment. The same renewal has been applied to the rest of the company's product lineup, and it is this renewal that becomes the core of SHIMA SEIKI's exhibition concept for ITMA 2023: "Reborn."

Of the 9 knitting machines SHIMA SEIKI is exhibiting, 8 machines will be part of the Next-Generation lineup, ranging from WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines and computerized flat knitting machines to glove knitting machines. More than 300 items will be on display as proposals for knitted applications in various fields ranging from fashion, sports, shoes, bags and accessories to medical, safety, automotive, aeronautical and other wearable and industrial textile applications.

In addition to machine technology, SHIMA SEIKI's SDS-ONE APEX series computer graphic design system and software will be shown with their latest software upgrades that feature significant improvements in knit programming, 3D functions and speed. Demonstrations will be available for a comprehensive fashion tech solutions package based on realistic virtual sampling and supported by various digital solutions and web services.

The textile machinery orders index for the first quarter of 2023, as processed by the Economics Office of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, declined markedly compared to January-March 2022 (-35%). In absolute terms, the index stood at 84.8 points (basis: 2015=100).

This result is mainly due to a reduction in the orders intake recorded by manufacturers on foreign markets. Indeed, foreign orders dropped by 40%, whereas the domestic market showed a 14% increase. The absolute value of the index settled at 78.3 points abroad, while it measured in at 148.1 points in Italy. During this year’s first quarter, booked orders stood at 4.2 months of guaranteed production.

ACIMIT president Alessandro Zucchi stated that, “The order index for the first quarter confirm a trend of the past few quarters, where uncertainty still predominates in global markets, both in terms of a macroeconomic framework that is characterized by a penalizing inflationary trend and ongoing geopolitical tensions. This is a scenario that this does not facilitate investment plans for businesses.”

However, this uncertainty does not appear to affect the sector’s operators, who are nonetheless permeated by a sense of optimism, as is also testified by the positive data drawn from a comparison with orders from the previous quarter (October-December 2022), for which total orders had been slightly on the rise at +3%. Indeed, the president of ACIMIT confirms that, “Manufacturers in our sector don’t lack for work, having filled up on orders last year and are now busy fulfilling them. The forecasts for 2023 remain positive”. Zucchi concluded, “I expect this confirmation of a healthy manufacturing sector to come from ITMA Milan, the world’s premier trade show dedicated to textile and clothing technologies, slated to open on June 8th at the Rho Fiera exhibition spaces. The exhibit will feature over 400 Italian manufacturers, taking up approximately 30% of the entire exhibition space. This figure is in itself a result that confirms the leadership role of Italy’s textile machinery manufacturers”.

As a global provider of sustainable woodfibre products, Sappi will be showcasing its solutions for the garment industry under the theme “Fashion meets Forest” at ITMA 2023 – with sublimation papers and its dissolving wood pulp, used for the production of garment fibres under the “Verve” brand name.

How can the woodfibre industry support a more sustainable garments market? Sappi is eager to answer this question at the ITMA and has created a “knowledge trail” for visitors to explore under the motto “Fashion meets Forest”. Visitors to the stand can follow the journey from wood via cellulose and fibre to the finished yarn and the printed garment.

Sublimation papers: Expanded production capacity in Carmignano
Sappi’s Transjet sublimation papers stand for fast, uniform ink transfer and minimal ink consumption. As a premium supplier, Sappi is constantly striving to meet its customers’ needs. So, at this year’s ITMA, various sublimation papers with optimised qualitative properties will be on show.

Sappi maintains the high quality of its coated Transjet and uncoated Basejet sublimation papers by regularly investing in new, state-of-the-art technologies. At the end of April, a new warehouse has been inaugurated at the Carmignano mill in Italy. In the next month’s, Sappi will further invest in two new converting machines with a width of 1.9 meters and 3.2 meters as well as in a fully automated packaging line. All the investments will support the company’s vision of having a complete in-house solution for the sublimation industry, have a positive impact on CO2 emission, satisfy the increased demand of their customers as well as further improve lead times.
 
“Verve” dissolving wood pulp for high-quality textiles
Sappi will also be showcasing its dissolving pulp (DP) brand “Verve”. DP provides the feedstock raw material toward producing rayon fibres such as Lyocell and viscose and further into yarns and fabrics. Textiles produced from wood based cellulosic fibres are noted for their breathability, colour fastness, softness, drape, absorbency and biodegradability. In addition to the garment industry, dissolving pulp is also used in various household and pharmaceutical products.

A total of 20 European fashion and design schools took part in the 2nd “Fashioning Sustainability” competition organized by Freudenberg Performance Materials together with Macpi and Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, two co-branding partners in the textile industry.

Freudenberg invited talented young designers to create and submit their ideas for sustainable clothing. The initiative aims to show that sustainability is a key factor in the fashion industry.

Two of the most innovative outfits from each school were selected for the final round and presented to an international jury at the “Bagni Misteriosi” event location in Milan in May. Fashion design experts and opinion leaders as well as journalists were invited to select the most sustainable designs in the categories of “Technology” and “Design”.

The winners
First place in the “Technology” category went to Judith Marquant while the second to Jagoda Sokolowska, both students of the fashion school Esmod in Paris. Ilaria De Martino, from the fashion institute Modartech, Italy, and Xiaodan Liao from Polimoda, Italy, were awarded first and second place in the “Design” category. The first-place winners received €2,000, while the second places won €1,000.

All participants benefited from the platform to network with leading players in the garment industry and learn more about concrete steps for embracing sustainability. Creating true sustainability in the fashion industry means reducing the material flow of clothing, addressing both sustainable production and consumption.

Members of the Jury:
Cristiano Zanetti, Sales Director Italy, Freudenberg Performance Materials
Maurizio Cazzin, Male Modeller, Maison Giorgio Armani
Riccardo Bullio, Apparel Industrial Division Director, Dolce & Gabbana
Caterina Cuoghi, Industrial Director, Area NYC
Simone Bigi, Style and Product Office Manager FAY line, Gruppo TOD’S
Roberto Cibin, Model and Pattern Development Manager, Caruso
Bruno Landi, Sales Director, Vitale Barberis Canonico
Luisella Allegretti, Pattern Designer Boss MW Business Specialist, Hugo Boss
Eugenio Balordi, Product Manager, Maison Margiela
Ettore Pellegrini, Sales and Marketing Manager, Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia

"ITA Aachen and ITA Augsburg are part of the ITA Group International Centre for Sustainable Textiles. Experience our textile innovations at two exhibition booths," explains ITA Institute Director Professor Dr. Thomas Gries. "See our ring spinning tester at booth H3-B304, which spins recycled fibres sustainably and individually in a previously impossible fineness. In addition, there is digital yarn monitoring, which enables new market potentials. Get an idea of the Recycling Atelier of ITA Augsburg at booth H3-A207 and see the textile cycle from used textile to solution steps for industrial implementation together with industry partners. Join us on the Walk4Recycling and follow the path from used textile to a new knitted pullover on a tour of the trade fair. This is how we live up to our claim as the ITA Group: sustainable - digital - individual."

ITA Aachen - Digital ring spinning tester for recycled fibres enables spinning of fine yarns with high recycled fibres content
The Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA) will be exhibiting a digital ring spinning tester, which spins recycled fibres directly and conventionally with a particularly high content of 60-70 percent. Up to now, recycled yarns have mainly been rotor-spun in this blend ratio. This results in rather coarse yarns and is not suitable for finer textiles such as outerwear. Ring spinning of recycled yarns now enables the spinning of finer yarns and thus a higher application level for recycled materials.

A unique selling point of the ITA ring spinning tester is the simultaneous spinning in the direct spinning process from the sliver and in the classic ring spinning process. For this purpose, the strength and elongation of the spun yarn are determined online and digitally for the first time. The real-time measurement allows process parameters and yarn properties to be adjusted iteratively and quickly. The ring spinning tester was upgraded from an existing tester to Industry 4.0 standard and is operated via a tablet. Operation via tablet enables the adjustment of process parameters including online quality monitoring remotely from anywhere in the world.
 
For this purpose, the ring spinning tester is also able to produce fine ring spun yarns. These yarns made from recycled material opens up a multitude of further fields of application for woven and knitted goods. Now, for example, clothing and technical textiles can be made from recycled material, the production of which was not possible before - such as outerwear made from recycled material. The development of new industries and fields of application opens up new market potential for recycled yarns - also and especially for processing in Europe. This creates the opportunity to preserve key technologies and jobs in cost-intensive locations.

ITA Augsburg - Recycling Atelier: Walk4Recycling
The Recycling Atelier of the Institut für Textiltechnik Augsburg gGmbH on stand H3-A207 presents the textile recycling from used textiles into new products via the various process steps and, together with the industrial partners, opens up solution paths for industrial implementation.

Under the headline "Walk4Recycling", a tour of the fair shows the cycle of used textiles from used knitwear into a new knitted pullover via a ring yarn made from a blend of 65 percent recycled cotton and 35 percent virgin polyester. The key innovation here is the high proportion of recycled fibres from post-consumer textiles for a ring yarn of this fineness. Today, mainly coarse rotor yarns for low-quality textiles are spun from these materials. The industrial partners participating in the Walk4Recycling are partners of the Recycling Atelier and contribute with their technologies to the fact that fibre material from old clothes can be processed in various process stages into a yarn of new value and high-quality ready-made garments.

The Walk4Recycling offers visitors the opportunity to experience a complete recycling cycle with the numerous process stages from tearing the old textiles, preparing and spinning the fibres and knitting a new jumper live during the fair. Get detailed information on the mechanical recycling of clothing via QR code, website and flyer about the participating exhibitors and their machines and technologies. A short movie will give you additional insights into the various processes involved in the production of the jumper.

Highlights Q1 2023 (compared with Q1 2022)

• Revenue up 5% and up 8% in constant currencies1
• Pricing up 7%, more than offsetting increase of raw material and freight costs
• Volumes 3% lower; Europe showing resilience, China rebounding
• Operating income at €182 million (2022: €232 million); adjusted operating income2 at €218 million (2022: €230 million); ROS3 at 8.2% (2022: 9.1%)
• Net cash from operating activities negative €50 million (2022: negative €102 million)
• Intended acquisition of Chinese Decorative Paints business from Sherwin-Williams announced in April 2023; completion expected in the second half of 2023

2023 Outlook
AkzoNobel expects the ongoing macro-economic uncertainties to continue and weigh on organic volume growth. The company will focus on margin management, cost reduction, working capital normalization and de-leveraging.
Cost reduction programs are expected to mitigate the ongoing pressure from inflation in operating expenses for 2023. AkzoNobel expects declining raw material costs to have a favorable impact on profitability.
Based on current market conditions, AkzoNobel targets to deliver €1.2 to €1.5 billion adjusted EBITDA.
The company aims to lower its leverage ratio to less than 3.4 times net debt/EBITDA, including the impact of the Kansai Paint Africa acquisition, by the end of 2023 and return to around 2 times post-2023.

The international nonwovens community came together once again in Geneva this week for INDEX™23, with with 12,017 attendees from over 100 countries and 610 exhibitors from 43 countries joining the event.

Exhibitors made the most of the four intensive days to meet potential new customers and extend business with existing clients. As one of the world’s leading nonwovens exhibitions, INDEX™ demonstrated the latest breakthroughs and innovative developments across all nonwovens’ applications.

The INDEX™ Lab, an exchange hub displaying samples from innovations and new developments, also showcased the winners and runners up from each of the five categories of the INDEX™ Innovation Award. Open to any EDANA member company or exhibitor at INDEX™23, the winners were announced on the first day of the exhibition during a dedicated ceremony at the EDANA stand.

The winners (more infomation):

1. Nonwoven roll goods
   Winner: Suominen – HYDRASPUN® Circula Nonwoven
2. Finished products made from, or incorporating nonwovens
   Winner: Henkel – Smart Adult Care
3. Raw materials or components (e.g., fibre, binder, polymer, tape), of special relevance to the nonwovens industry and related converted products
   Winner: Fiberpartner – BicoBio
4. Innovation in machinery of special relevance to the nonwovens industry
   Winner: Curt G. Joa, Inc. – ESC-8™
5. Sustainable Product
   Winner: Sparkle Innovations – SugaFluff™

The "Nonwovens Journey", an immersive experience that takes a look at the innovative role of nonwovens, as well as how innovation has progressed in time around both sustainability, and how nonwovens are used in everyday life, also allowed visitors to discover the versatility of nonwovens.

Running alongside the exhibition itself, there was also a full programme of side events that were enjoyed by participants: Exhibitor Product Presentations from 33 exhibitors; a series of informative seminars covering a myriad of topics including medical nonwovens, sustainability, circular economy, geosynthetics, textiles, mobility, fair trade, gender equity, innovation, and market trends; country-specific briefings offering insights into the nonwovens market in various regions around the world; and a nonwovens tutorial intended as an induction to nonwovens for those new to the industry. These topics were all presented by leading industry experts and guest speakers, including among others, the World Trade Organization (WTO).

Concern for the environment has in recent years become increasingly important, and once again remained a key topic at INDEX™23, with companies pushing to achieve further CO₂ reductions and circularity across the supply chain.

Continuing on from its success during COVID-19, the INDEX™23 Mobile App and Virtual Platform was back. This tool offered participants – both in Geneva and those following from home – the chance to watch presentations live and interact with speakers, exhibitors, and other participants. Attendees were able to plan their visit and organize meetings, which was highly appreciated. Video recordings from the sessions will remain available online in the app and platform for the coming weeks.

The next INDEX™ will take place in three years from 21-24 April 2026.

Source Fashion returns to London Olympia on 16-18th July, more than doubling in size and welcoming over 300 exhibitors from around the world.

Source Fashion offers a platform for decision-makers in buying, sourcing and procurement, with the reassurance of knowing that every exhibitor has been audited to ensure sustainability and transparency remains at the heart of their business model. The February launch show welcomed over 130 manufacturers from 20 countries including the UK, Peru, Cambodia, Pakistan, Turkey, China, India, Portugal, Hong Kong, Italy, and Greece, attracting nearly 5,000 visitors from leading retailers and brands including John Lewis, M&S, Sainsbury’s, Tesco, All Saints, Asos, Ted Baker, Bella Freud, FILA, Fred Perry, Matalan, Monsoon, Stitch Fix, Urban Outfitters, Very Group, and many more.

Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing of Source Fashion; “We couldn't have asked for a better first show. Leading retailers attended keen to source new, and crucially audited, producers and manufacturers. We champion responsibility, and sustainability isn’t just an addition to our show, it is our core value. We unite manufacturers practicing environmental, transparent, and fair-trade methods, with buyers looking to source sustainably.

“Our next show will be even bigger and better – we have already doubled the size of our floorplan for July and have been overwhelmed by the interest from both exhibitors and visitors. The global sustainability market is expected to grow by 24% annually in the next seven years according to Meta, which means now more than ever, brands are on the hunt for new sustainable manufacturers and suppliers to source from and the growth rate is staggering for Source Fashion. It is going to be firmly established as a significant platform for responsible sourcing by its second show.”

With its new Trend and Event Platform, the Premium Group presents a new concept for a progressive community. According to Premium Group classic trade fair formats are over - this summer it's all about (re)connection, real emotions and new perspectives. The emphasis lies on the most relevant trends and the power of networking, but in a more personalised and intimate way.

PREMIUM and SEEK are focusing on a more rigorous curation of promising brands and collections as well as various opportunities to connect. An extensive content programme of keynotes, round tables, live interviews, study presentations and panels on the most important trends will offer two diverse and time-efficient days. The areas of concentration encompass sustainability, technology, fashion, business, lifestyle, and beauty. The repertoire of topics include marketing themes such as LinkedIn and Tik Tok, new tech tools such as ChatGPT or Virtual Dressing as well as news from the metaverse. Sustainability topics such as denim, circularity, re-commerce, vintage and the new Green Deal laws will be discussed as well as cross-industry topics such as female empowerment, Gen Z and modern leadership.
     
PREMIUM marks the first event of the season for womenswear. New silhouettes, design trends, provocation and the current zeitgeist are brought to the forefront with a carefully curated selection of brands. The fashion scene and visitors can look forward to the best of denim, hyper-femininity, beauty, well-being, future Berlin icons and innovations from the tech and lifestyle sphere. New talents will also have the opportunity to pitch their labels to a professional audience. SEEK focuses on heritage, Y2K, modern sportswear, outdoor and sustainable brands, which will be shown in the CONSCIOUS CLUB. Other highlights will include talks and inspiring activations from the community.

"We listen, research and curate the most important trends for the industry. To do this, our team of experts travels across Europe and exchange ideas with representatives from the entire industry. The results of months of work can be discovered in two days," says Maren Wiebus, Creative Director of the Premium Group.

Today, attention is the most important currency for the fashion industry. This is also why, for the very first time ever, the Premium Group events will take place over only two days instead of three. At the same time, generally accepted norms and rules are questioned, taken apart, and put back together again. The organisers of Premium Group invite fashion professionals to discuss the rules and redefine them together.
 
The summer editions of PREMIUM and SEEK will take place on 11 and 12 July at the new old location Station-Berlin in the heart of Berlin.

Avgol®, a manufacturer of high-performance nonwoven fabric solutions, will use this month’s INDEXTM exhibition in Switzerland to showcase how it has a laser focus on delivering against sustainability objectives to safeguard the future.

Together with its sister companies from Indorama Ventures Limited (‘IVL’), Avgol will be presenting biotransformation capable fibers, spunbond, meltblown and SMS for diversified end-use markets at the event. Avgol will present and be available to discuss with visitors how this developing technology and the company’s other related products can help businesses achieve their 2030 sustainability goals.

Avgol will also highlight the latest solutions since recently announcing its collaboration with Algaeing™. Avgol uses patented algae bio-based formulations for colorants in its products, combining a unique environmental solution for modifying the aesthetic qualities of materials with Avgol’s ongoing commitment to sustainable polyolefin based spunbond and meltblown fabrics.