From the Sector

As global business activities pick up towards the back end of the year, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition 2023 closed its doors last week, ending a successful three days of trade at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai). From 16 – 18 August 2023, 1,034 exhibitors (up 38.1%) from 13 countries and regions crossed paths with over 32,000 visitors (up 59.2%) from 96 countries and regions, more than 10% of which were overseas buyers. In a further testament to this edition’s internationality, new exhibitor countries and regions represented were Indonesia, Portugal, Taiwan (China), Turkey, and the US. With buyers able to source products covering the whole home textile value chain, and a fringe programme that transcended the norm, the international platform has once again marked its importance at bridging trade and communication within the industry and across sectors, circulating trade benefits to every edge of the globe.

As the country perhaps most well-known for its immense market and prolific manufacturing hubs, for the past several decades China has been a desirable business destination for international traders. In a positive step in March, the government relaxed pandemic control measures, enabling a return to cross-border, in-person business activities. This led to a strong increase of international exhibitors and buyers at the recently concluded fair, with visitors flying in from as far away as Africa, Europe, and South America. In addition, three country and region pavilions, from Belgium, Taiwan (China), and Türkiye, added some location-specific internationality to proceedings in Shanghai, and were well-received by fairgoers.

Speaking at the show’s curtain call, Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, said: “With China’s doors widely opened to the world again, we were pleased to welcome so many new and returning international participants to the fairground over the past three days. Across the four halls, not only was the visitor flow strong, but the booths were busy and business interactions were high. The increase in overseas exhibitors, and the return of several country and region pavilions, has meant even more diversified sourcing options for our devoted buyers from home and abroad. After overcoming some global turbulence, we have strengthened this bridge to help industry players reconnect, and redirect themselves towards the new, post-pandemic era.”

Cross-sector collaboration a key highlight of the fringe programme
Enhancing the constant buzz on the show floor, the fair’s concurrently held fringe events saw upstream and downstream suppliers, industry insiders, and even inter-industry guests share some pertinent insights and innovations. This year, a series of mixed events delved into topics related to interior design trends, sustainability, new technologies, globalised and localised designs, health and wellness, and many more. One highlight was the International Intertextile Trend Forum 2023 – 2024, which illustrated the most in-vogue home designs for the upcoming season. More specific inspiration was provided by leading Japanese furniture brand IKASAS, whose exclusive seminar and display area showcased fresh home textile applications for furniture. Finally, a cross-sector conference hosted by the CRECC Full Decoration Council invited experts from both the real estate and furnishing sectors to help attendees broaden their business possibilities.

The 2024 Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition will take place from 6 – 8 March, while the Autumn Edition is scheduled for 14 – 16 August 2024. The fair is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA).

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced that it is partnering with the Waterloo Filtration Institute (WFI) to produce the 2-day FiltXPO™ conference program, October 10-11, Chicago, Illinois. WFI brings decades of filtration experience, resources, and a worldwide network to support the education and technical development of the global filtration industry.

Filtration and separation professionals from the global supply chain will connect at FiltXPO 2023 for advancements, innovations, and business development. The conference portion of the FiltXPO event will focus on advanced filtration technologies and science for products that create a cleaner, healthier, and safer world. More details about the conference will be released at a later date.

The Nonwovens Institute (NWI) is a valued partner to INDA in bringing educational offerings to the nonwoven and engineered material industry. Behnam Pourdeyhimi, Ph.D., Professor and Executive Director, The Nonwovens Institute, and his team will teach the 2-day Filter Media Course in conjunction with FiltXPO, October 9-10, at Navy Pier in Chicago.

Professor Pourdeyhimi and his team will share the latest insights in the development, testing, and application of nonwovens in air, aerosol, and liquid filtration. Participants will gain knowledge about the physics of filtration, how nonwoven filter media is designed and used in air, aerosol, and liquid applications, testing standards, unmet needs in filter media, and the latest market trends and intelligence.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK has completed an international series of exhibitions, culminating in a very successful ITMA 2023, the world’s largest international textile and garment technology exhibition, which took place in Milan, Italy in June.

 “This was a very hectic period for FET, organising participation in three exhibitions in Europe and Asia over a period of less than four months” commented FET’s Managing Director Richard Slack. “However, this provides a great opportunity for smaller specialist companies like FET to raise our profile on the international stage, showing what we can offer, alongside major corporations. Being able to meet so many customers face-to-face, post pandemic also indicates a welcome return to normal business relationships.”

Prior to this was INDEX 23 in April, the world’s leading nonwovens exhibition in Geneva. The exhibition season began earlier in the year with the “Green Textile and Innovation Technology Forum and Exhibition” in Hong Kong, taking a small booth to support the event and FET’s official agent in the region, Chemtax.

FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a wide range of high value textile material applications worldwide and the variety of these three exhibitions illustrates FET’s scope in the industry.

• Currency-neutral revenues flat versus the prior-year level
• Top-line development reflects improved sell-out trends and conservative sell-in strategy
• Gross margin up 0.6pp to 50.9%; strong improvement compared to Q1 reflecting better sell-through and less discounting
• Operating profit of € 176 million includes extraordinary expenses of around € 160 million related to one-off costs, donations and accruals for future donations
• Inventory position improves substantially versus Q1 level to € 5.5 billion; now up only 1% year-over-year

In the second quarter of 2023, currency-neutral revenues were flat versus the prior-year level. The top-line development continued to be impacted by the company’s conservative sell-in approach in order to reduce high inventory levels, particularly in North America and Greater China. At the same time, adidas second quarter revenues benefited from the first sale of some of its Yeezy inventory. The initial product drop in June generated revenues of around € 400 million in Q2, which is largely in line with the Yeezy sales generated in the prior year’s quarter.

Footwear revenues grew 1% during the quarter, reflecting strong growth in football, basketball, tennis and US sports. Apparel sales declined 3% in the second quarter. As the apparel market continues to be particularly overstocked, the company continued its conservative sell-in strategy to improve sell-through and margins in the medium term. Accessories grew 8% during the quarter driven by growth in football.  

Lifestyle revenues were down during the quarter despite extraordinary demand for the company’s Samba, Gazelle and Campus franchises. While adidas slowly started to scale its offering for these product families during the second quarter, the total volume still only represents a small portion of the company’s overall business. Sales in the adidas Performance categories continued to show positive momentum. This reflects strong demand for new product introductions such as the latest iterations of its Predator, X and Copa football boots, as well as jerseys for both the FIFA Women’s World Cup 2023 and the company’s unique portfolio of football teams ahead of the start of the European club season. In addition, the Adizero product family in running continued to gain a lot of attention around marathon races across the world, translating into higher demand. At the same time, the brand’s Barricade tennis franchise grew strongly, leveraging the excitement around major tournaments.

In euro terms, the company’s revenues declined 5% to € 5.343 billion in the second quarter (2022: € 5.596 billion).

Stronger sell-out trends and conservative sell-in
As a result of the company’s initiatives to reduce high inventory levels, currency-neutral sales in wholesale declined 10% despite double-digit growth in Greater China and Latin America. At the same time, direct-to-consumer (DTC) revenues grew 16% versus the prior year. This development was driven by strong growth in both the company’s e-commerce business (+14%) as well as own retail stores (+19%), reflecting continued strong sell-out trends across most regions. The outperformance of the company’s DTC channel versus the wholesale business was also related to the first sale of the Yeezy inventory, which was done exclusively through adidas’ own e-commerce channel.

Double-digit growth in Greater China and Latin America
Currency-neutral sales in North America declined 16% during the quarter. The region is particularly affected by elevated inventory levels in the market and – in response to this – the company’s significantly reduced sell-in. Revenues in Greater China grew 16% in Q2, reflecting double-digit sell-out growth in both wholesale and own retail. Sales in EMEA were down slightly (-1%) despite double-digit DTC growth. While the company’s initiatives to reduce inventory levels and discounting weighed on the overall top-line development in the region, adidas recorded significantly improving full-price trends during the quarter. Revenues in Asia-Pacific increased 7% during the quarter, driven by strong double-digit growth in DTC. Latin America continued to increase at a double-digit rate (+30%), reflecting strong growth in both wholesale and DTC.

Gross margin improves to 50.9%
The company’s second quarter gross margin increased 0.6 percentage points to 50.9% (2022: 50.3%). This improvement was mainly driven by price increases the company has implemented as well as by an improved channel mix. At the same time, higher supply chain costs and unfavorable currency movements continued to strongly weigh on the gross margin development. While still adversely impacting the company’s gross margin in the quarter, discounting levels significantly improved compared to the first quarter of the year.  

Operating profit of € 176 million, resulting in an operating margin of 3.3%
Other operating expenses were up 3% to € 2.582 billion (2022: € 2.501 billion). As a percentage of sales, other operating expenses increased 3.6 percentage points to 48.3% (2022: 44.7%). Marketing and point-of-sale expenses decreased 7% to € 617 million (2022: € 663 million). As a percentage of sales, marketing and point-of-sale expenses slightly decreased by 0.3 percentage points to 11.5% (2022: 11.8%). Operating overhead expenses were up 7% to € 1.965 billion (2022: € 1.838 billion), reflecting higher logistics expenses. In addition, the company recorded one-off costs of around € 50 million related to the strategic review the company is currently conducting as well as donations and accruals for further donations in an amount of around € 110 million. As a percentage of sales, operating overhead expenses increased 3.9 percentage points to 36.8% (2022: 32.8%). The company’s operating profit amounted to € 176 million (2022: € 392 million) in the quarter. This amount includes the extraordinary expenses of in total around € 160 million reflecting the one-off costs related to the strategic review as well as the donations and accruals for further donations. The sale of the Yeezy product positively impacted adidas’ operating profit by an incremental amount of around € 150 million in Q2. The operating margin reached 3.3% in the quarter (2022: 7.0%).

Net income from continuing operations of € 96 million
After taxes, the company’s net income from continuing operations amounted to € 96 million (2022: € 360 million), while basic EPS from continuing operations decreased to € 0.48 (2022: € 1.88).

Outlook

adidas expects revenues to decline at a mid-single-digit rate
On July 24, adidas had adjusted its full year financial guidance to reflect the positive impact of the first sale of some of its Yeezy inventory and a slightly better-than-expected development of the adidas business in the first half of the year. At the same time, macroeconomic challenges and geopolitical tensions persist. Elevated recession risks in North America and Europe as well as uncertainty around the recovery in Greater China continue to exist. In addition, the company’s revenue development will continue to be impacted by the initiatives to significantly reduce high inventory levels. As a result, adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to decline at a mid-single-digit rate in 2023 (previously: decline at a high-single-digit rate).

Underlying operating profit anticipated to be around the break-even level
The company’s underlying operating profit – excluding any one-offs related to Yeezy and the ongoing strategic review – is still anticipated to be around the break-even level. Including the positive impact from the first Yeezy drop of around € 150 million, the potential write-off of the remaining Yeezy inventory of now € 400 million (previously: € 500 million) and one-off costs related to the strategic review of up to € 200 million (unchanged), the company now expects to report an operating loss of € 450 million in 2023 (previously: loss of € 700 million).

On August 2, the company launched a second drop of Yeezy inventory. Throughout the month of August, adidas is making a range of existing products available through both its own e-commerce channel as well as the digital platforms of selected wholesale partners. If successful, this second drop would further improve the company’s results. However, as the results of this drop are yet unknown, it is not accounted for in the company’s current top- and bottom-line outlook for 2023.

• Green Fashion community increasingly ‘thinking out of the box’

Networking and agility are in greater demand than ever – that was the conclusion at the close of the 52nd INNATEX which took place from 29 to 31 July 2023. 244 Green Fashion labels presented their collections to 1500 visitors at the international trade fair for sustainable textiles. Audience figures thus matched the level at the previous summer edition of the fair in 2022. With 244 brands, INNATEX again delivered remarkable variety, with many new exhibitors and fresh looks.

“We're pleased that our figures are remaining constant,” says Jens Frey, Managing Director of trade fair organiser MUVEO GmbH. “Undeniably, sustainable brands and the retail trade are currently living through a long period of challenges. But from our point of view, the Green Fashion sector is responding with extraordinary willpower and perseverance. Why? Out of a sense of conviction and because sustainability is the future.”

Future-related topics were also the subject of panel talks and personal discussions at various points. A key aspect was the urgent need for cooperation agreements and networks to open up new sales channels and fields of activity. Experts at the fair also recommended an honest review of business strategies that may have outlived their usefulness. As Dr Eva Stüber of Cologne’s Institute for Retail Studies (IFH Köln) points out, “The pandemic, the war of aggression, inflation, digitalisation – there are many factors prompting a change in lifestyles and demands. What is required now is creativity. Brands and retailers can exploit new potential by, for example, checking their ranges for market relevance, being sharper in their targeting, making shopping a social event, joining up with people from entirely different areas and not immediately rejecting apparently mad ideas.”

From August 20^th to 21^st, 2023, the INNATEX Showroom will take place in Bern.

The 53^rd INNATEX fair will be held from January 20^th to January 22^nd, 2024.

• Revenues: 239.6 million euros (-4%)*
• EBITDA before non-recurring items: 35.3 million euros (-21%)*
• Net income: 13.9 million euros (-31%)
• Free cash flow before non-recurring items: 16.6 million euros (+13%)

Lectra’s Board of Directors, chaired by Daniel Harari, reviewed the consolidated financial statements for the first half of 2023, which have been subject to a limited review by the Statutory Auditors.

Comparisons between 2023 and 2022 are based on 2022 exchange rates unless otherwise stated (“like-for-like”). As the impact of the acquisition of TextileGenesis (see press release dated December 8, 2022) on the financial statements for 2023 is not material, like-for-like changes exclude only the variations in exchange rates.

Business Trends and Outlook
In its 2022 Annual Financial Report, published February 8, 2023, Lectra presented its new roadmap for 2023-2025. The Group also specified that 2023 remained unpredictable given the degraded macroeconomic and geopolitical environment, which lead to numerous uncertainties that could continue to weigh upon the investment decisions of its customers.

At the beginning of the year, the Group had set itself objectives of achieving, in 2023, revenues in the range of 522 to 576 million euros and EBITDA before non-recurring items in the range of 90 to 113 million euros.

Given the delay in orders for new systems in the first quarter, and poor visibility on new systems orders for subsequent quarters, the Group reported on April 27 that it now anticipated revenues in the range of 485 to 525 million euros (-5% to +3% at constant exchange rates relative to 2022) and EBITDA before non-recurring items in the range of 78 to 95 million euros (-15% to +3% at constant exchange rates relative to 2022). The Group also noted that despite limited visibility regarding new systems orders over the next few quarters, there is strong visibility regarding recurring revenues, which should enjoy substantial growth and account for 65% of total revenues in 2023. These revised scenarios had been prepared on the basis of the closing exchange rates on April 27, 2023, for the remaining nine months of the year, and particularly $1.10/€1.

The results of the second quarter support these revised objectives.

A 1-cent appreciation of the euro against the U.S. dollar in the second half of the year (at an exchange rate of $1.10/€1) would mechanically decrease revenues by approximately 1.0 million euros and EBITDA before non-recurring items by 0.45 million euros. On the contrary, a 1-cent fall in the euro against the dollar would mechanically raise revenues and EBITDA before non-recurring items by the same amounts.

Because the Group's customers operate in a highly competitive environment that demands they continue to improve performance, their investments will pick up as soon as the macroeconomic situation improves. Lectra's roadmap for 2023-2025, which was launched on January 1, 2023, will enable the Group to take full advantage of the upturn and accelerate its growth.

The British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) has joined the Zurich-headquartered International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) – revitalising a historic connection and reflecting an increased push to expand the international reach of UK companies.

The announcement was made at the ITMA 2023 textile machinery exhibition in Milan from June 8-14.

“We are pleased to welcome the BTMA as our latest association member and look forward to a long and fruitful partnership going forward,” said ITMF Director General Dr Christian Schindler. “The ITMF was actually headquartered in Manchester in the UK up until the 1960s, so we share long-standing roots. Today, ITMF members are from across the entire textile supply chain which enables them to gain a better understanding of the full complexity and dynamics of the industry and to fully respond to the opportunities and challenges it faces.”

In the printing industry, direct-to-film technology is having a transformative impact on the apparel decoration space. It provides a simple and affordable garment printing process that facilitates vibrant, dynamic, full-colour designs with a durable print. It opens up opportunities for digital print service providers (PSPs) to expand their product offerings in the textile industry, their network of potential customers and expand the range of fabrics they can print on.

Direct-to-film vs. Screen Printing
Direct-to-film printing is the process of digitally printing directly onto a special transfer film sheet. The printed film is subsequently sprinkled with a hot-melt powder and heated. Once the transfer sheet is cured and dried, it can be heat-pressed onto a variety of fabrics to create premium transferred designs for customised merchandising, sportswear, and an array of other promotional applications for the textile market. Compared with traditional screen printing, the plate creation required for that process is far too time-consuming. Not only this, but it does not match direct-to-film’s ability to produce vivid colours and quality details such as shapes, lettering, and motifs often sought after in the promotional and merchandising space for bespoke textiles.

The Mimaki TxF150-75
Mimaki’s first direct-to-film inkjet printer is the TxF150-75, a fitting extension to the 150 series, with a maximum printing width of 80cm. Offering a stable printing plotter, the model’s built-in ink circulation system and degassed ink pack are resolutions to common direct-to-film challenges such as poor ink ejection and white ink clogging. The new printer also includes core Mimaki features including NCU (Nozzle Check Unit) and NRS (Nozzle Recovery System) for stable, uninterrupted print production. Operating in harmony with the textile printer itself is Mimaki’s ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® certified water-based pigment textile inks, formulated especially for the TxF150-75. Coupled with Mimaki’s RasterLink7 RIP software, users are offered end-to-end oversight and efficiency from creative design to final product.

In addition, and in line with Mimaki’s collaborative approach to meeting customer needs, Adkins has developed an 80cm wide powder shaker cure unit to complete this ‘A brand’ direct-to-film printing solution. By offering the printer and post-processing unit at 80cm wide, customers can print larger garments with less waste and quicker production times, making the process much more cost effective.

On June 26, 2023, the Alexander Zverev Foundation and WorldChanger founder Robert Laner hosted an exclusive charity tennis tournament at the Bio and Wellness Resort Stanglwirt in Tyrol, Austria.

Based on the motto "helping by playing", 24 top-class athletes and celebrities came together to play tennis doubles for a good cause. Participants in this special event included Olympic champion and two-time ATP world champion Alexander Zverev, actress and presenter Palina Rojinski, influencer & entrepreneur Pamela Reif, soccer world referee Dr. Felix Brych, ski legend Maria Höfl-Riesch, actor Herbert Knaup, rapper Kool Savas, ski jumper Gregor Schlierenzauer, actor Hans Sigl, tennis legends Barbara Schett and Charly Steeb, soccer world champion Roman Weidenfeller, influencer Younes Zarou, and many more.

BOGNER took part in this event and equipped the participants with suitable sports and tennis wear. The collected proceeds of more than 100,000 euros will benefit the Alexander Zverev Foundation, which supports children and young people affected by diabetes. The Alexander Zverev Foundation is helping to raise awareness and acceptance of diabetes within the public discourse, as Alexander Zverev himself is affected by the disease. To wrap up this unforgettable experience, the tennis tournament then evolved into an exclusive Red Carpet evening event. The invited guests met for the award ceremony and a closing speech by Alexander Zverev and Robert Laner on the topic of "Diabetes, the right mindset on the way to the world's best and positive change" at the mountain chalet Hüttlingmoos, directly below the Wilder Kaiser. The grand finale of the day in the mountains was then the outdoor party, again in Hüttlingmoos, with live music from the Fast Boys and star DJ Topic.

Ada Hefetz, an Israel-based wedding dress designer, has introduced a new attention-grabbing collection with intricate, showstopping elements produced using Stratasys’ advanced direct-to-textile 3D printing technology. Showcased recently at Milan Design Week, the three unique dresses are based on Hefetz’s Flower of Life theme and were produced using Stratasys’ 3DFashion™ technology as part of her latest series celebrating matrimonial union, the circle of life, and design.

Known for designing haute couture bridal dresses combining vintage style and classic modern chic, Ada Hefetz is renowned for constantly pushing the boundaries of design. This is her first completed project using 3D printing.

The wedding dresses feature complex geometrical shapes, depicting the ‘Flower of Life’, a sacred geometry dating back to ancient Egypt. The intricate pattern is composed of overlapping circles that intersect to form flowers, which Ada Hefetz has combined with her design of a lily to symbolize the union between two individuals and the circle of life. The inspiring design uses Stratasys’ translucent VeroVivid™ resin material with Stratasys’ J850™ TechStyle™ 3D printer, which can be printed in over 500,000 unique colors with varying levels of flexibility, simulating different textures and finishes.

Ada Hefetz’s Flower of Life-themed 3D printed wedding dresses are currently on display at Milan’s D-House Urban Laboratory, which is owned and managed by Dyloan, the leading Italian manufacturer serving the high-end fashion sector.