From the Sector

With total sales of EUR 1,543 million, generated by over 30 production and sales units in Europe, Asia, and America, Radici Group closed its 2022 financial year with slight growth over 2021. EBITDA reached EUR 157 million in 2022, and net income for the year was EUR 80 million.

“We are moderately pleased with the 2022 figures,” Angelo Radici, president of RadiciGroup, commented. “Despite an unpredictable and challenging year, we were able to achieve positive results. Although the rise in energy costs began to be felt in January, we managed to maintain our position in the first three months of the year due to a significant increase in demand. From the second quarter onwards, the European market experienced a significant slowdown due to the outbreak of war in Ukraine, which exacerbated the already soaring costs of energy and raw materials. The situation was completely out of hand and made worse by the fact that some raw materials were not available. This created significant challenges for us, especially in the chemical sector. We even had to stop operations at our Novara plant in the latter part of the year. Products similar to ours in the nylon supply chain from China and the US were being sold at a price lower than our variable cost.”

The president continues: “At Group level, our internationalisation strategy helped us mitigate geopolitical risks in various countries. As a result, we were able to offset the challenges in the European chemicals and textile markets by leveraging our global presence in High Performance Polymers, where our numbers have held strong. As we began 2023, we regained our footing. However, the global economic and industrial scenario for the rest of the year remains highly uncertain, and forecasts are notably cautious.”

Even in these difficult times, the Group has continued to invest. In 2022, the High Performance Polymers Business Area completed the acquisition in India of the engineering plastics branch of Ester Industries Ltd, a listed company. Additionally, it began installing two new production lines in Mexico and Brazil, and confirmed plans to install a new extrusion line at the Villa d’Ogna production site in the province of Bergamo. These choices align with the Group’s goal of enhancing its worldwide presence and boosting competitiveness in high-potential growth markets. In a year where energy and raw material costs were certainly problematic, operating in geographically diverse markets and with varied applications proved to be an important tool in addressing the challenges. In this vein, a new production site spanning over 36,000 square metres has recently been inaugurated in China. The move is aimed at doubling the production capacity in line with the market’s growth expectations.

Extending the time horizon to 2018-2022, the Group has invested over EUR 277 million to enhance the competitiveness of its companies, implement Best Available Techniques, improve energy efficiency, reduce emissions, and conduct research and development activities aimed at introducing sustainable processes and solutions. These efforts include the research and development activities of Radici InNova, which are heavily focused on the circular economy.

Für zwei Absolventinnen des Master-Studiengangs Textile Produkte der Hochschule Niederrhein gab es gleich doppelten Grund zur Freude: Sie feierten zusammen mit ihren ehemaligen Kommiliton:innen des Fachbereichs Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik nicht nur ihren Abschluss, sondern erhielten auch eine ganz besondere Auszeichnung: Sie nahmen je 1500 Euro Preisgeld für ihre herausragenden Abschlussarbeiten entgegen.

Das Textile and Fashion Network (TFN, der Förderverein des Fachbereichs) unterstützt Franziska Guth, die anderen 1500 Euro stiftet der Verband der Rheinischen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie e.V. an Tabea Hofemeister.

Preisträgerin Franziska Guth hat ihre Arbeit zusammen mit der KARL MAYER GROUP erstellt. Darin befasste sie sich mit den strategischen Herausforderungen von Smarten Textilien. Franziska Guth hat einen kettengewirkten (Maschenware bestehend aus mehreren senkrecht laufenden Fäden) Smart Textile Demonstrator entwickelt. Konkret geht es um einen berührungslosen Bewegungssensor zur Gestenerkennung aus einem Abstandsgewirke mit leitfähigem Garn, der als Steuerungstool für unterschiedliche Anwendungen wie im Automobil-Interieur verwendet werden kann. Er wurde schon 2022 auf der Techtextil in Frankfurt präsentiert. Mit ihrem innovativen Ansatz und ihrem eigens konzipierten Sensor leistete sie einen wichtigen Beitrag zur Entwicklung von Smart Textiles auf Wirkmaschinen.
Guth arbeitet mittlerweile bei der KARL MAYER GROUP als textile Produktentwicklerin und feilt dort weiter an innovativen textilen Strukturen, die sich auf Wirkmaschinen herstellen lassen.

Das Ziel der Masterarbeit von Tabea Hofemeister war es, Methoden einzuführen, mit denen sich die Chemikaliendichtigkeit persönlicher Schutzausrüstung prüfen lässt. Diese fehlten bislang im Bestand der Öffentlichen Prüfstelle für das Textilwesen der Hochschule Niederrhein. Mithilfe des Abrinntests überprüfte sie, ob Flüssigkeit in das Material gelangt oder daran gehindert wird. Zum anderen untersuchte sie, wie beständig die Schutzkleidung gegen das Durchdringen von Chemikalien im Spraytest ist. Auf Basis technischer Anforderungen ermittelte sie verschiedene Optionen für eine Konstruktion der Prüfeinrichtungen und führte sie in das bestehende Qualitätsmanagementsystem ein.
Hofemeister ist derzeit Doktorandin in der Fahrzeugsicherheit bei Volkswagen in Wolfsburg.

Climate change is causing temperatures to rise and storms to increase. Especially in inner cities, summers are becoming a burden for people. While densification makes use of existing infrastructure and avoids urban sprawl, it increases the amount of sealed surfaces. This has a negative impact on the environment and climate. Green facades bring more green into cities. If textile storage structures are used, they can even actively contribute to flood protection. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) have developed a corresponding "Living Wall".

The plants on the green facades are supplied with water and nutrients via an automatic irrigation system. The "Living Walls" operate largely autonomously. Sensory yarns detect the water and nutrient content. The effort for care and maintenance is low.

Innovative hydraulic textile structures regulate water flow. The rock wool plant substrate on which the plants grow has a large volume in a small space thanks to its structure. Depending on how heavy the precipitation is, the rainwater is stored in a textile structure and later used to irrigate the plants. In the event of heavy rainfall, the excess water is discharged into the sewage system with a time delay. In this way, the "Living Walls" developed at the DITF help to make efficient use of water as a resource in post-densified urban areas.

The research project also scientifically investigated the cooling performance of a green facade. Modern textile technology in the substrate promotes the "transpiration" of the plants. This creates evaporative cooling and lowers temperatures in the surrounding area.

The work of the Denkendorf research team also included a cost-benefit calculation and a life-cycle analysis. Based on the laboratory and outdoor studies, a "green value" was defined that can be used to evaluate and compare the effect of greening buildings as a whole.

The ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei team knows that value creation is the foundation of contemporary business. Its team is ready to take ROICA™ to the next level, responding to market demand innovations, whilst sharing its latest responsible production system with a new generation of consumer.

For this reason, the ROICA™ strategy is based on two key elements:
First, a focus on responsible innovation, able to respond to new market needs and desires without harming the environment or society at large. Thanks to the certified and eco-high tech ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, Asahi Kasei is able to meet responsible business needs and contemporary consumers’ desire for a modern wardrobe that represents a new generation of values.

Second, the dawn of ROICA™ has fueled a consolidation of partnerships along the whole supply chain through conversations and collaborations with companies sharing ROICA™’s values, including: Artistic Milliners, CIFRA, Dresdner Spitzen, Iluna Group, Innova Fabrics, Maglificio Ripa, Penn Italia - Penn Textile Solutions GmbH, Sitip S.p.A. and Tessitura Colombo.

Leaders assembled at the renowned forum for sustainability in fashion to mobilise action and usher in a transformative phase for the industry.

Hosted in the Copenhagen Concert Hall, on 27-28 June, Global Fashion Summit convened over 1000 revered representatives from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to transform ambition into action. The Summit was presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark.

This year’s theme ‘Ambition to Action’, galvanised participants to transform ambitions into concrete actions that can drive the industry towards more sustainable practices, both socially and environmentally. Under this premise, the event presented content experiences focused on tangible and evidence-based impact, with over half of the programme dedicated to educational and action-oriented business case studies.

This edition included more speakers and content than ever before, with the dynamic and action-orientated sessions spanning across four different stages. The Summit also facilitated more than 10 strategic roundtable meetings that brought together executives and policy makers for productive dialogues on how to address pressing sustainability issues and act accordingly. The content integrated the five priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda, alongside critical challenges and tangible opportunities relating to some of the key forces that are shaping the fashion industry today: data, policy and storytelling.

Attendees heard from 137 speakers including HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark; Antoine Arnault, Image & Environment, LVMH Group; Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director & Founder, JW Anderson and Creative Director, Loewe; Virginijus Sinkevičius,  Commissioner for the Environment, Oceans and Fisheries, European Commission; Henriette Hallberg Thygesen, Chief Delivery Officer, Maersk; Aude Vergne, Chief Sustainability Officer, Chloé; Nicolaj Reffstrup, Founder, GANNI; Fanny Moizant, Co-Founder & President, Vestiaire Collective; Noel Kinder, Chief Sustainability Officer, Nike; Óscar García Maceiras, CEO, Inditex; Dr. Lewis Akenji, Managing Director, Hot or Cool Institute; Rachel Arthur, Advocacy Lead, Sustainable Fashion, United Nations Environment Programme; and many more.

Innovation Forum connected fashion companies with sustainable solution providers
This year’s Summit also presented an Innovation Forum, enabling small and large companies to meet with 26 sustainable solution providers – equipping them with the concrete tools to quickly turn words into meaningful actions. More than 350 facilitated business meetings between fashion companies and sustainable solution providers took place during the Summit.

Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition will take place on 27 September 2023, which will mark the second time the Summit has been hosted outside of Copenhagen in its 14-year history.

Der Bundesverband Medizintechnologie (BVMed) hat die gesetzliche Einführung eines Beratungsrechts beim Gemeinsamen Bundesausschuss (G-BA) für Hersteller von sonstigen Produkten zur Wundbehandlung begrüßt. Mit dem Beschluss im Rahmen des Arzneimittel-Lieferengpassbekämpfungs- und Versorgungsverbesserungsgesetzes (ALBVVG) wurde zudem die Übergangsregelung um 12 Monate verlängert. „Damit hat der Gesetzgeber noch rechtzeitig reagiert, um Verbesserungen an der neuen Verbandmittel-Erstattungsregelung vorzunehmen und Nachteile für die Versorgung von Menschen mit chronischen Wunden zu vermeiden“, so BVMed-Geschäftsführer und Vorstandsmitglied Dr. Marc-Pierre Möll. Nun sei es wichtig, „dass der G-BA gemeinsam mit Ärzteschaft, Pflege und Herstellern geeignete und auf die Wundversorgung angepasste Evidenzkriterien entwickelt. Mit dem Beratungsrecht gibt es dafür nun die Grundlage.“

Hintergrund ist, das für sogenannte „sonstige Produkte zur Wundbehandlung“ künftig ein Bewertungsverfahren durchgeführt werden muss, bevor sie durch die GKV erstattet werden. Der Gemeinsame Bundesausschuss (G-BA) hat bislang jedoch keine auf die Wundversorgung angepassten Evidenzkriterien für die erstattungsrelevanten Nutzennachweise definiert. Hierzu gewährt der Gesetzgeber nun – analog zu vergleichbaren Verfahren zur Bewertung des Nutzens von Arzneimitteln nach § 35a SGB V (AMNOG) oder zur Bewertung neuer Untersuchungs- und Behandlungsmethoden nach § 137h SGB V (NUB) – betroffenen Verbandmittel-Herstellern ein Beratungsrecht zur Methodik der für die Nutzenbewertung erforderlichen Studien.

Zur Frage der Evidenzkriterien hatte der BVMed kürzlich im Umfeld des Bremer Wundkongresses eine Umfrage durchgeführt, an der sich über 250 Wundfachkräfte beteiligten. Sie zeigte auf, dass es bei den Behandlungen von 92 Prozent der Teilnehmenden zunächst um die Reduktion klinischer Infektionszeichen geht. 79 Prozent nennen die Reduktion von Wundexsudat, 76 Prozent Reduktion von Schmerzen, 70 Prozent die Verbesserung der gesundheitsbezogenen Lebensqualität der Betroffenen. Die Reduktion der Wundfläche steht bei 58 Prozent im Fokus, die Reduktion der Keimlast in der Wunde bei 55 Prozent. Nur 22 Prozent der Befragten nennen auch den kompletten Wundverschluss als Evidenzkriterium. „Wundauflagen mit antibakterieller Wirkung sind für eine phasengerechte Wundversorgung unerlässlich und müssen auch künftig für die Versorgung chronischer Wunden zur Verfügung stehen“, so BVMed-Wundexpertin Juliane Pohl.

Betroffen von der neuen Regelung ist eine Vielzahl von Produkten wie etwa silber- oder PHMB-haltige Wundauflagen, die bislang erstattungsfähig waren. Nach Einschätzung des BVMed sind rund 400 Produkte betroffen.

This season, adidas Originals and the progressive Ukrainian label KSENIASCHNAIDER have come together to present a collaborative collection featuring a host of unconventional garments, footwear, and accessories.

Founded in 2011 by Ksenia and Anton Schnaider, KSENIASCHNAIDER is a Kyiv-based independent fashion house centered on creating boundary pushing ready-to-wear, denim, and upcycled apparel and accessories. Drawing on Ksenia’s design language and Anton’s engineering logic, the partners’ eponymous label continues to challenge established conventions to boldly project a new vision of the future.

The collection is anchored by a host of garments which blend the Ukrainian house’s signature aesthetic with adidas’ instantly recognizable brand codes. First, an array of denim pieces – including jeans, jackets, and shirt dresses – are elevated with frayed edges, voluminous cuts, and idiosyncratic details. Second, fresh takes on a timeless adidas classic stand out as adiColor tracksuits, corsets, and dresses are reworked in a patchwork finish.

The adidas Originals x KSENIASCHNAIDER collection launches on July 1st.

Lectra supports the transformation of fashion, automotive and furniture companies by providing them with technological solutions that accelerate their transition to a more efficient and more sustainable Industry 4.0. In February, as part of the launch of its new roadmap, Lectra confirmed the importance of CSR in its strategy and presented its new priority measures for 2023-2025. By joining the UN Global Compact, Lectra demonstrates its commitment to reaching the Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations.

Over the last few years, Lectra has stepped up its CSR initiatives. In 2011, the company implemented a CSR purchasing charter that covered 98% of its industrial purchases in 2022, excluding Gerber Technology (which was acquired in June 2021). In 2023, the new version of our CSR purchasing charter will be extended to Gerber suppliers, with the objective of enrolling 90% of all our industrial suppliers by 2025. Lectra also favors local procurement and production, as demonstrated by the recent inauguration of its manufacturing facility in Tolland, United States.

Another example: knowing that textiles generate 90% of the CO₂ emissions produced during the total lifecycle of a cutting room, Lectra strives to offer its customers solutions that optimize the use of materials. Lectra's equipment makes it possible to achieve material saving of 5 to 10%. In addition, to better inform consumers about product authenticity and provenant, the company has also expanded its software offer to material traceability, as show by the recent majority acquisition of TextileGenesis’ capital. Lectra is committed to systematically using eco-design principles by 2025 for its new equipment platforms in order to reduce its environmental footprint.

For 2023-2025, Lectra has decided to focus on 5 key areas through 12 measures:

1. MEETING THE HIGHEST ETHICAL STANDARDS
   - Uncompromising business ethics
   - Extension of our CSR purchasing policy
2. DESIGNING ECO-RESPONSIBLE OFFERS
   - Developing eco-designed products and services
   - Supplying products and services that help reduce our customers’ impact on the environment
   - Developing safe, accessible and easy-to-use solutions
3. FOSTERING AN INCLUSIVE, DIVERSE AND STIMULATING WORKING CULTURE
   - Zero tolerance for discrimination and harassment and equal opportunities for everyone
   - A working environment conducive to employee engagement
   - Balance between work and private life
   - Sustainable development of talents, team expertise and professional careers
   - Employees’ health and safety
4. REDUCING THE ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT OF OUR ACTIVITIES
   - Reducing the environmental impact of our company's activities
5. SUPPORTING FUTURE GENERATIONS
   - Supporting the development of professional skills and the employability of future generations

Der Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik der Hochschule Niederrhein ist nun offizielles Mitglied der „Association of Universities for Textiles“ (AUTEX), einem weltweiten Netzwerk aus Hochschulen mit starker Textil-Ausrichtung. AUTEX wurde 1994 gegründet und deckt mit 42 Mitgliedern aus 29 Ländern einen Großteil der internationalen Hochschulen mit Promotionsrecht und Forschungsprofil auf diesem Gebiet ab.

Als einer der größten Studienorte für Textilingenieur:innen Europas war es naheliegend, dass sich auch der Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik der Hochschule Niederrhein an diesem Netzwerk beteiligt. Bislang scheiterte eine Mitgliedschaft am fehlenden Promotionsrecht der Fachhochschulen in Deutschland, welche ein wichtiges Kriterium für die Aufnahme in AUTEX ist. Da die Hochschule Niederrhein seit November 2022 durch das Promotionskolleg NRW auch über ein eigenständiges Promotionsrecht verfügt, fiel nun aber auch diese letzte Hürde.

Nach Einreichung des Aufnahmeantrags und einer persönlichen Vorstellung durch Prof. Dr. Lutz Vossebein (Dekan), Prof. Dr. Mathias Beer (Studiendekan) und Prof. Dr. Maike Rabe (Leiterin des Forschungsinstituts für Textil und Bekleidung und selbst auch Mitglied im Promotionskolleg) wurde der Fachbereich im Rahmen der diesjährigen AUTEX-Vollversammlung während der Fachmesse ITMA in Mailand als neues Mitglied begrüßt.

Durch die Mitgliedschaft soll in Zukunft eine noch engere Zusammenarbeit zwischen der Hochschule Niederrhein und den anderen Hochschulen des Netzwerks erreicht werden, zum Beispiel durch die gegenseitige Bewerbung der jeweiligen Aktivitäten und Errungenschaften, die Förderung der Mobilität von Studierenden und Mitarbeitenden zwischen den Hochschulen, die Organisation von Konferenzen oder die Beantragung von gemeinsamen Forschungsprojekten.

After nearly 30 years with the company, Matthew North, Commercial Director at the viscose specialty fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres, will retire on July 1, 2023. Throughout his long and successful career, he has played a significant role in transforming Kelheim Fibres from a supplier of standard fibres to the European textile industry into a supplier of predominantly customized specialty fibres for the hygiene, specialty paper, and textile industries.

Mark von der Becke will assume the position of Sales Director and become part of the management team at Kelheim Fibres. The 48-year-old brings extensive experience in sales, marketing, and key account management. He has held various leadership positions in renowned companies such as Hoechst, Clariant, and DS Smith in Germany, Switzerland, and China. He is known for successfully developing and implementing strategy and change programs.

Dr. Marina Crnoja-Cosic, who has been serving as Director of New Business Development and a member of the management team at Kelheim Fibres since 2020, will take on the responsibility for marketing and communications. She will now drive the further development of the marketing strategy and communication with customers and partners.