From the Sector

During an awards ceremony on Monday, October 17, the Society for Human Resource Management (SHRM) Foundation awarded Barry-Wehmiller CEO Bob Chapman its preeminent recognition in people leadership, the Tharseō CEO of the Year Award.

SHRM is the world's largest HR professional society, representing more than 300,000 HR professionals across the globe, impacting 115 million workers and their families. The Tharseō (thar-seh'-ō)—derived from the Greek word for "courageous, confident and bold"—awards are given to those who demonstrate innovative and impactful business practices leading to better workplaces and a better world by serving as visionaries, innovators and change agents.

Chapman has been the CEO of Barry-Wehmiller since 1975. Since then, he has applied a blend of strategy and culture to create a thriving global organization. Chapman’s work is chronicled in his 2015 Wall Street Journal bestseller Everybody Matters: The Extraordinary Power of Caring for Your People Like Family, co-authored by Raj Sisodia, founder of Conscious Capitalism. In 2016, Harvard Business School released a case study about Barry-Wehmiller’s approach to business that is now taught at 80 business schools. A non-profit, Chapman Foundation for Caring Communities, and a leadership consulting firm, Chapman & Co. Leadership Institute, bear Chapman’s name and share some of the foundational learnings that helped transform the culture of once-traditional Barry-Wehmiller into a caring, dignity-honoring, fulfilling place to work.

In recent years, Chapman has focused on creating caring leaders of tomorrow by sponsoring programs in K-12 schools and universities. In 2021, Chapman and his team partnered with Fordham University and other Jesuit business schools to launch the Humanistic Leadership Academy which helps professors and students become more human-centered.

A sought-after global speaker, Chapman recently addressed the United Nations PRME conference on transforming education, the China Organizational Evolution Forum, Brazil’s Virtuous Leadership Conference, Vizient CEO Network, and the Healthcare Burnout Symposium, to name a few.

• Lenzing becomes partner company of CISUTAC
• New project CISUTAC, co-funded by the EU, shall remove barriers to circularity in the textile industry
• Lenzing will make a contribution in cellulose recycling

The Lenzing Group, a leading provider of specialty fibers for the textile and nonwoven industries, is reinforcing its commitment to circularity by becoming a partner in the CISUTAC (Circular and Sustainable Textile and Clothing) project that is co-funded by the EU. The new consortium was established to support the transition to a circular and sustainable textile sector and, as well as Lenzing, the 27 consortium members include the industry association Euratex, textile company Inditex, PVH, Decathlon and non-governmental organization Oxfam. For its part, Lenzing is focusing on the development of recycling processes for cellulose.
 
CISUTAC aims to remove current bottlenecks in order to enhance textile circularity in Europe. Its goal is to minimize the sector’s total environmental impact by developing sustainable, novel and inclusive large-scale European value chains.

adidas announces preliminary results for the third quarter and adjusted its full year 2022 guidance. The company’s new outlook takes into account a further deterioration of traffic trends in Greater China as well as a significant inventory build-up as a result of lower consumer demand in major Western markets since the beginning of September, which is expected to lead to higher promotional activity during the remainder of the year. The new outlook also reflects several one-off costs impacting the company’s bottom-line results in both the third and fourth quarter of the year.

Based on preliminary numbers, adidas’ currency-neutral revenues grew 4% during the third quarter. Currency-neutral sales in Greater China declined at a strong double-digit rate reflecting the continued widespread covid-19-related restrictions as well as significant inventory takebacks. Excluding Greater China, currency-neutral revenues in the company’s other markets combined continued to grow at a double-digit rate during the quarter. In euro terms, the company’s sales increased 11% to € 6.408 billion in Q3. The gross margin declined 1.0 percentage points to a level of 49.1% and operating margin reached 8.8% during the third quarter (2021: 11.7%). Net income from continuing operations was € 179 million in Q3 (2021: € 479 million). The bottom-line development during the quarter reflects several one-off costs totaling almost € 300 million on the net income level. The majority of these expenses reflect the company’s decision to initiate the wind-down of its business operations in Russia. In addition, non-recurring costs related to accelerated cash pooling in high inflationary countries, a recently settled legal dispute as well as higher provisions for customs-related risks also had an adverse effect on the company’s gross profit, operating overheads as well as financial and tax expenses in the quarter.

As a result of the deteriorating traffic trend in Greater China, higher clearance activity to reduce elevated inventory levels (up 63% on a currency-neutral basis at the end of Q3) as well as total one-off costs of around € 500 million on the net income level in 2022, the company reduced its full year guidance. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues for the total company to grow at a mid-single-digit rate in 2022 (previously: mid- to high-single-digit rate), reflecting double-digit revenue growth during the fourth quarter. This growth will be driven by adidas’ strong product pipeline, support from the FIFA World Cup 2022 as well as easier prior year comparables. The company’s gross margin is now expected to be around 47.5% in 2022 (previously: around 49.0%). Consequently, the company’s operating margin is now forecasted to be around 4.0% in 2022 (previously: around 7.0%). Net income from continuing operations is expected to reach a level of around € 500 million (previously: around € 1.3 billion).

In 2023, the company expects the non-recurrence of the one-off costs of around € 500 million occurred in 2022 to have a positive impact on the net income development in the same order of magnitude. In addition, in light of the challenging market environment adidas established a business improvement program to safeguard the company’s profitability in 2023. As part of this program the company has launched several initiatives aimed at mitigating the significant cost increases resulting from the inflationary pressure across the company’s value chain as well as unfavorable currency movements. In total, the program, which will result in one-off costs of around € 50 million in the fourth quarter of 2022, is expected to compensate cost headwinds of up to € 500 million in 2023. In addition, it is expected to deliver a positive profit contribution of around € 200 million next year.

Highlights Grow & Deliver (compared with Q3 2021)

• Revenue up 19% and 14% higher in constant currencies1, pricing up 13%
• ROS2 at 6.4% (2021: 10.0%), resulting from lower volumes and higher raw material and freight costs, as well as inflation on operating expenses
• Adjusted EBITDA at €283 million (2021: €325 million)
• Q4 2022 adjusted operating income expected below €150 million

Highlights Q3 2022 (compared with Q3 2021)

• Pricing up 13%, offsetting the increase of raw material and other variable costs. Volumes 5% lower, mainly due to destocking in the distribution channels in Decorative Paints in Europe and in Performance Coatings, as well as lower market demand in China
• Operating income at €168 million (2021: €226 million), includes €16 million negative impact from Identified items (2021: €15 million net negative impact) and €17 million negative from the retrospective hyperinflation impact of the first half-year of 2022. OPI margin 5.9% (2021: 9.4%)
• Adjusted operating income3 at €184 million (2021: €241 million); excluding the retrospective impact of hyperinflation accounting at €201 million
• Net cash from operating activities decreased to an inflow of €126 million (2021: inflow of €290 million)
• Net income attributable to shareholders at €84 million (2021: €164 million)
• EPS from total operations at €0.48 (2021: €0.89); adjusted EPS from continuing operations at €0.57 (2021: €0.93)
• Interim dividend of €0.44 per share (2021: €0.44 per share)

AkzoNobel CEO, Thierry Vanlancker, commented: “Our €201 million adjusted operating income excluding the retrospective impact of hyperinflation accounting bring our Q3 results in line with the market update issued at the end of September. Sharply increased macro-economic uncertainties negatively impacted consumer confidence. This resulted in destocking across several distribution channels in decorative paints Europe and performance coatings, while the market in China was impacted by the ongoing zero COVID-19 policy. Thanks to the strong commitment of our teams, we continue to offset the impact of raw material and freight cost inflation with pricing. We’ve now delivered cumulative pricing of 22% over the last two years. The macro-economic turbulence is expected to continue well into next year. We’ve therefore decided to suspend our targets for 2023 and will provide further guidance when announcing our full-year 2022 results. In the meantime, we will continue to focus on our margin management and cost reduction initiatives.”

Kornit Digital Ltd. unveiled its Impact Report for 2021 highlighting progress made against goals and further expanding its commitment to a long-term strategy designed to transform the world of fashion and textiles into one that is more sustainable. The comprehensive analysis details Kornit’s performance related to climate action, waste management, green chemistry, and diversity in the workplace, as well as other areas of the Company’s Environmental, Social, and corporate Governance (ESG) framework.

Key Accomplishments Against Baseline (2021)  
Kornit’s ongoing dedication to improving ESG practices within its own operations has resulted in Company-wide achievements in the areas of:

Climate Action and Waste Management*

• ~16% reduction in GHG emissions intensity from x 9.11-e to 7.68 MTCO2-e
• 39% reduction in hazardous waste intensity from 1.7 tons to 1.04 tons
• 57% reduction in non-hazardous waste intensity from 33 tons to 14 tons

Green Chemistry

• Complete elimination of Acute Toxic Amines (CLP category 1, 2, 3) CMR
• 20% reduction of VOC level in Robusto Inkset and 30% of VOC in Eco Ink/Green

DEI and Community Engagement

• An increase in women in management, from 30% to 35%
• Reporting 88% of employees feeling respected and free to be authentic at work - *Intensity measures are per $1 million of revenue.

Kornit Digital’s Impact Strategy
Propelled by an ambition to make a positive impact across all areas of its business and throughout the fashion and textile industries, Kornit further adjusted its Impact Strategy this year towards more expansive, longer-term goals and objectives. Kornit’s refined strategy reflects the Company's dual role as a change agent in the industry—both as a leader empowering the fashion industry to be more sustainable, and as an accountable participant responsible for embracing social and environmental change to make the world a better place.  
The holistic strategy accounts for both roles, across two fundamental pillars—"Enable the Change” and “Be the Change”—and incorporates both social and environmental KPIs designed to meet the Company’s goals and respond to stakeholders’ input, as well as industry and ecosystem needs

Kornit is officially unveiling the report during a press event at PRINTING United Expo 2022.

*Intensity measures are per $1 million of revenue.

and textile technology company Infinited Fiber Company’s work to build the world’s first commercial-scale Infinna™ textile fiber factory in Kemi, Finland, has progressed largely according to plan since the announcement of the factory site in June 2022. The company is increasing its focus on scaling Infinna™ production volume further as quickly as possible. This is in response to the continued and growing customer demand for the company’s high-quality regenerated textile fiber Infinna™. The market impacts of the ongoing war in Ukraine – including the increased uncertainty on the global utility, commodity and financial markets – have highlighted the need to proceed rapidly with technology scaling on multiple fronts.
 
“We are not immune to the global market context in which we operate. The supply chain issues stemming from the Covid-19 pandemic are still wreaking havoc, and the ongoing war in Ukraine has dealt a heavy blow to the global utility, commodity, and financial markets – and to us. We are satisfied with the progress at the site of our planned commercial-scale factory and the opening of the factory remains our key priority. The current, unstable market environment has highlighted the need for us to also accelerate efforts to simultaneously pursue other avenues for scaling production, with the ultimate aim of serving our customers in the best possible way in the long run,” said Infinited Fiber Company CEO and cofounder Petri Alava.
 
Infinited Fiber Company said in June that it planned to build a factory to produce Infinna™, a textile fiber that can be created 100% from cotton-rich textile waste, at the site of a discontinued paper mill in Kemi, Finland. The factory is expected to create around 270 jobs in the area and to have an annual production capacity of 30,000 metric tons, equivalent to the fiber needed for about 100 million T-shirts. The future factory’s customer-base includes several of the world’s leading apparel companies, with most of the future production capacity already sold out for several years.
 
Since June, Infinited Fiber Company has advanced the site-specific basic engineering, recruitment planning, vendor selection, and permit processes according to plan. The limited component availability caused by the continuing impacts of the Covid-19 pandemic and the war in Ukraine have, however, prolonged significantly the delivery times for some of the key equipment and machinery needed for the factory. As a result of these developments, Infinited Fiber Company has re-evaluated its overall factory project timeline. The first commercial fiber deliveries from Kemi are now expected to begin in January 2026. The scope of the project remains unchanged and construction work at the site is expected begin during 2023 as previously communicated.
 
In addition, the European energy crisis sparked by the war in Ukraine has caused the electricity prices in Finland to roughly triple, and the prices of some of the key chemicals needed in the fiber regeneration process have risen by some 200-300% since the start of the war.
 
“We of course don’t have a crystal ball. But according to our advisors and other experts, utility and commodity prices are forecast to normalize before 2026, when we now expect the first commercial fiber deliveries from Kemi to be shipped. In addition to the likely normalization of the market, the extended timeline enables us to undertake the necessary measures to develop the profitability of the future factory. The growing demand for Infinna™, despite the general turbulence, is an encouraging and clear indication of the fashion industry’s commitment to circularity,” said Petri Alava.

IDTechEx report: Wearable Sensors 2023-2033

Overall, this report provides insight into how wearable sensors could be integrated into society long term - the technology underpinning value within the trend towards 'the quantified self'. The main drivers for growth identified are digital health and remote patient monitoring, extended reality, and the metaverse and performance analytics of athletes and sports people.

More people than ever before are turning to wearable sensors to monitor their activity levels. Despite its origin in simple step counting, the market for wearable sensors is expanding into the more complex arena of health monitoring. Innovations in wearable sensor technology are expanding the envelope of biometrics accessible through watches and skin patches, addressing the rising demand for remote patient monitoring and decentralized clinical trials but also increasing consumer expectations. This includes easier access to health data, and extends further to sensor integration into headsets and accessories for immersive AR/VR experiences.
 
Motion sensors finding applications beyond step counting
Motion sensing hardware is well established, with accelerometers integrated into almost every wearable. Therefore, as profit margins for manufacturers diminish with commoditization, expanding the application space is crucial to maintain growth. This report provides an outlook for emerging use cases such as health insurance rewards, clinical trials, and professional athlete monitoring.
 
Optical sensors seeking to go further than heart-rate detection
Smart-watch wearers are familiar with the red and green lights on the back of their devices, used to obtain heart-rate data or blood oxygen and further analyzed for insights into calorie burn, VO2 max, and sleep quality.
Sensor developers are interested in pushing the boundaries of what can be measured non-invasively with light - whether it be through new software to analyze photoplethysmography (PPG) signals or new hardware for spectroscopy. Multiple companies are competing to lead in the commercialization of wearable blood pressure, with others setting their sights on ambitious 'clinic on the wrist' devices to replace common hospital tests and even glucose monitoring. This report appraises the potential for optical sensors, and overviews challenges for calibration requirements and regulatory approval.
 
Monitoring of the heart, muscle, and brain
Incorporating conductive materials into wearable technology is a simple concept. However, it has led to a vast variety of wearables sensors including wet electrodes stuck on the skin to measure the heart, dry electrodes in headphones to analyze brain signals, and microneedles within skin patches to quantify muscle movements. As such, this also creates a broad application space for electrodes ranging from vital sign monitoring and sleep analysis for healthcare, to emotional response and stress monitoring for marketing and productivity. This report dedicates a section to the four key categories of electrodes: wet, dry, microneedle, and electronic skin. This includes a summary of key material and manufacturing requirements.
 
Wearable sensors are fundamental to continuous monitoring of health, fitness, and wellness. As applications for wearable technology grow, there are increasing opportunities for sensors that detect parameters ranging from glucose levels to pressure and from motion to temperature. Based on a decade of market research on wearable technology hardware, this report analyses the technological and commercial landscape of this growing industry, both today and into the future. IDTechEx's research in wearables tracks the progress of over 50 wearable electronic product types. Within each of these products, a key focus of the research has been understanding and characterizing the prevalence of sensor types integrated into each.

DiloGroup will be attenting India ITME 2022 (December 8 – 13, 2022), an exhibition for the textile industry, which offers a central forum for dialogue within the textile production sector, including textile machine building, fibre production, ancillaries and accessories. For DiloGroup this event is a good oppportunity to inform customers and interested parties about new developments aimed at improving production technologies with a focus on needlefelts.

Focal points of the development work are:

1. Intense Needling:
   The development efforts of DiloGroup aim at producing nonwovens by “intense needling” instead of water entangling, even for light nonwovens made of fine fibres for the medical and hygiene sector with an area weight of 30 – 100 g/m². This would result in a reduction of the environmentally relevant production costs; per annum to about 1/3 to 1/5 of current.
2. “Fibre Pulp Recycling”
   Fibrous material in nonwovens and particularly used clothes can be successfully recycled, if staple length can be conserved in the tearing process. In the classical tearing process, staple lengths are dramatically reduced and therefore these fibres can only be used as base material for inferior uses in thermal or acoustic insulation or in protective textiles, transportation or protective covers etc.
   When recycling textile waste in the context of the collection of used clothes, the so called “filament-saving” tearing using special tearing machines and methods must be used to produce fibres with longer staple lengths which can be fed to a nonwoven installation. Hence product characteristics can be better specified and controlled.
3. Additive nonwoven production
   The additive production method of the “3D-Lofter” is especially suited for automotive parts with differently distributed masses. It is also suited for uses in the sector of apparel and shoe production.
4. “IsoFeed”-card feeding
   In the field of card feeding, the “IsoFeed” method offers great potential for a more homogeneous card feeding at the same time reducing the variation in cross-machine fibre mass distribution and thus the fibre consumption while conserving the end product quality.

As a world’s leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has been engaged in improving the textile industry for two decades. To commemorate this milestone, GOTS has initiated an awareness campaign to recognise those who have been with them along the way –friends, stakeholders and partners, workers and managers in GOTS certified companies, and the consumers who have supported the standard – from field to fashion.

The centrepiece of the campaign is the "Faces From Field to Fashion" video series. It’s a behind-the-scenes journey to the heart of GOTS, an introduction to the sights, sounds, and faces behind every GOTS product. Representing more than 4 million people working in GOTS certified facilities around the world, eight individuals give a glimpse into their lives and tell how they have been impacted by GOTS in unscripted and candid video portraits.

GOTS is inviting the public to celebrate from October through December, as the full video series is unveiled, along with a campaign landing page, creative contests, and fun giveaways. The festivities are expanded with interviews, articles, and other media partnerships.

Perstorp has been acquired by PETRONAS Chemicals Group Berhad (PCG), Malaysia´s leading integrated chemicals provider and part of PETRONAS Group, on 11 October 2022.

In May this year, PCG signed a Securities Purchase Agreement with Financière Forêt S.à.r.l, a company under PAI Partners, a European private equity firm, to acquire the entire equity interest in Perstorp, a leading sustainability-driven global specialty chemicals company based in Sweden. With the completion of the acquisition, Perstorp is now PCG’s wholly-owned subsidiary.

PCG will strive to ensure the timely completion of Perstorp’s growth projects in a safe and cost-effective manner. Perstorp has several projects lined up in the near future, including the launch of Project Air which aims to reduce carbon emissions through the production of sustainable methanol. Recently, The European Union Innovation Fund selected Project Air, as one of the 17 large-scale green tech projects, which together will be granted more than EUR 1.8 billion. Project Air is a gamechanger for the chemical industry, moving from fossil raw materials to recycled and bio-based feedstock, thereby enabling sustainable chemical products to a large variety of industries and end products. At full capacity, it will reduce global CO2 emissions with close to 500,000 metric tons per year from today’s levels, corresponding to one percent of current emissions in Sweden.