From the Sector

The Board of Directors of Autoneum Holding Ltd appoints Bernhard Wiehl, the longstanding Head of Finance & Controlling of Business Group Europe, as Chief Financial Officer (CFO) and member of the Group Executive Board with immediate effect. The previous CFO Dr Martin Zwyssig has decided to leave Autoneum.

Bernhard Wiehl has been responsible for Finance & Controlling at Business Group Europe since 2013. Also thanks to his financial leadership, this Business Group with its numerous legal units has become highly profitable in recent years. Prior to joining Autoneum, he held senior finance and controlling positions with various automotive suppliers and has therefore extensive experience in the financial management of internationally active suppliers. Additionally, he is very familiar with the challenges of the automotive industry in a global environment. From 2007 to 2013, he was Head of Finance & Controlling and member of the Executive Board of the Lighting and Electronics division at the German automotive supplier Hella and from 2004 to 2007, among other things, in charge of controlling of the Europedivision of the supplier Hydraulik-Ring. Wiehl started his professional career in 1995 at TRW Automotive in Germany. He studied mechanical and industrial engineering at the Esslingen University of Applied Sciences, Germany, and holds a degree in industrial engineering (FH).

Bernhard Wiehl’s predecessor Dr Martin Zwyssig decided to leave the Company and to take up a new professional challenge. The Board of Directors and CEO Matthias Holzammer thank him for the commitment to the Company and wish him all the best for his professional and private future.

"Fulfillment Hub” presentation will feature collaborations with major brands, thought leadership sessions
Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, has announced the details of its presence at PRINTING United 2019, taking place in Dallas, Texas, October 23-25, 2019.

PRINTING United brings the North American public debut of Kornit’s Konnect software, a cloud software analytics platform that provides users a single comprehensive user interface to monitor and manage their productivity. This empowers customers to receive real-time data about their operations, prioritize, assess costs, troubleshoot, and set goals from the convenience of their laptop, tablet, or smartphone.

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable features, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of Interfilière New York with a range of developments capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

ILUNA represents the largest European laces’producer. Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko – Tex®). A relevant  achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection, now even richer, make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

During the conference it was very interesting to see how the Chinese recycling industry in general and the Chinese polyester recycling industry in detail is on its way to digest the drastic measures of the Chinese government to ban the import of any plastic waste from January first, 2018 onward.

While Europe is struggling with individual measures such as the ban on drinking tubes, cotton swabs, balloons, plastic bags or disposable tableware, the Chinese leadership has created eight ministerial administrative units covering the entire complex of environmental protection, renewable energies, circular economy including recycling and climate protection. There is still a substantial gap to European environmental standards but Chinese velocity of progress is impressive in this field.

More than 360 delegates form China and oversees listened to the latest results in polyester recycling technology, production and market and exchanged their recent experiences. Especially the exhibition was core of social and technical networking.

Two contributions from governmental organizations and three from industry associations are underlining the high administrative attention of the recycling issue and loop economy in general.

• Interfilière Shanghai, 26th-27th September 2019, Booth 1C11

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable features, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of Interfilière Shanghaiwith a range of developments capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality.

"Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.Experts in the production of stretch lace  since 1985 ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. 

Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS(Global Recycled Standard) for their  transformed products together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).

A relevant  achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Labelcollection, now even richer, make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family andQ-Nova® by Fulgar.

Shanghai - ROICA™ lands in Shanghai to showcase its complete range of premium stretch fibers for the modern wardrobe and disclose its visionary approach and strategy for a cutting-edge and sustainable fashion.

On show, leading material innovator Asahi Kasei introduces a premium stretch fiber starting from the ultimate ROICA Eco-Smart™ Family. The certified and multi-awarded range has astonished the textile world for its hyper-performative features. “The new premium stretch is synonymous of transformation: from standard to speciality, from basic to special, from ordinary to clever and from standard to Smart.” Explains Shinichiro Haga, Senior Executive Manager - ROICA™ Division.

Sustainability and a responsible approach are the true core of research and development to create high-tech engineered yarns.Such visionary imprint imbues all ROICA™ innovations:

• ROICA Eco-Smart™ family: A true world-first with the most contemporary sustainable range of responsibly produced premium ingredients. ROICA Eco-Smart™ family offers 2 sustainably designed stretch yarns

- ROICA™ EF is GRS by Textile Exchange certified, thanks to the fact that more than 50% of yarn content comes from the recycling of pre-consumer waste.
- ROICA™ V550 yarn got the Cradle-to-Cradle® Innovation Institute’s GOLD LEVEL Material Health certificate for impacts on human and environmental health. This yarn is also Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificated, signifying at its end-of-life, ROICA ™ yarn smartly breaks down without releasing harmful materials.

• ROICA Feel Good™ family: A unique range of advanced stretch yarns that deliver personal performance and measurable wellness, freshness and comfort metrics for travel, sport, leisure and more.
   
• ROICA Colour Perfect™ family: A range of yarns that can give excellent, flawless and world unique colour dimensions in advanced fit solutions.
   
• ROICA Resistance™ family: A high performance range of stretch solutions with performance resistance designed for match particular applications.
   
• ROICA Contour™ family: A range of yarns that create new shaping, stretch and silhouette solutions for a calibrated fit, effortless control, softness, comfort and support.

ROICA™ already entered the most advanced collections of leading brands as: Wolford for exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, Sarah Borghi for hosiery, SITA Active for Smart pret-a-porter,  Daquini for athleisure, Livy for sensual lingerie, SCOTT Racing Team for cycling uniforms, Closed for denim, Un-Sanctioned for running suits, Vitamine A for beachwear and many others.

In Shanghai, ROICA™ is set to stand out as leader in Smart Innovation. As tangible proof of this, the company brings to Intertextile Shanghai some of its ultimate collaborations across China and the Far East.

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

• Reduction of material usage by up to 50 percent through innovative draping strategy in the production of fibre composite materials

In fibre reinforced plastic (FRP) production, stamp forming is one of the most economical processes for automated large-scale production, e.g. in the BMW i-series. However, the current processes are susceptible to draping errors and a high proportion of waste. An innovative process developed at the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University, short ITA, can now significantly reduce the scrap rate and reduce the waste rate of high-priced reinforcing textiles, such as carbon fibre textiles, by up to 50 percent. Sven Schöfer from ITA achieved this effect with his work "Development of a textile-based material feed to increase the preform quality during stamp forming of reinforcing layers". On 10 September 2019, he won the third AVK Innovation Prize in the "Research and Science" category at Composite Europe in Stuttgart, Germany.

Current process
In stamp forming, clamping grippers are usually used in industry to feed the stacked individual layers to the forming process and position them on the lower tool via a clamping frame or hold-down device. Due to the clamping grippers, the cutting proportion of cost-intensive reinforcing textiles is high, as additional material at the textile edge is necessary with clamping systems. Other approaches to feeding the reinforcing semi-finished product during forming and simultaneously improving the draping quality are also not economical: they are usually only designed for certain textile cuts, cannot be automated, are prone to errors or are expensive special solutions.

There is currently no system in the industry that can apply retention forces along a final contour with low waste and remains flexible in terms of geometry.

Innovative approach of Sven Schöfer
The innovative process developed by Sven Schöfer works with a detachable textile joint, a so-called tufting seam. It allows the single layers to slide off during the forming process under a retention force dependent on the seam design.

This reduces or completely eliminates draping errors in previously critical areas, even with complex preform geometries. This leads to a significant increase in preform quality and a reduction in scrap rates. The process is also highly efficient, as tensile forces can be applied to any component geometry on near-net-shape blanks. This reduces the material input by up to 50 percent.

Keynote by Wilson Zhu (COO at Li & Fung) on digitizing global supply chains and interview with Jason Prescott (CEO JP Communications) on ATSG's concept, goals and program

From 11 to 13 September, the textile trade fair Apparel Textile Sourcing Germany (ATSG) will take place for the first time in Berlin. 200 manufacturers from all over the world will present the latest developments and trends in the global apparel and textile market. Manufacturers for the mass market as well as producers supplying brands or retailers with smaller retail ranges will present themselves. A large number of
international experts from the textile industry will be giving lectures and discussing the future of the market. Admission is free.

The ATSG is organized by JP Communications Inc. (JPC). With trade fairs under the umbrella brand ATS (Apparel Textile Sourcing), the company is already a well-known player in the North American textile and clothing industry. JP Communications operates the most extensive network of B2B sourcing platforms in the USA. TopTenWholesale.com and Manufacturer.com are used by millions of international members to find suitable wholesalers and manufacturers. The ATSG is supported by a large number of local and European organisations from industry, trade and commerce as well as international consulates.

• Organic Waste Systems and TÜV confirm fiber biodegradability also in fresh water
• All white LENZING™ Viscose, Modal and Lyocell fibers are now certified for all environments
• Global legislators aim at limiting plastic waste persisting in the environment for centuries
• EU Single-Use Plastics Directive partly regulates usage of plastic products
• Biodegradable materials such as wood-based fibers are the best alternative to single-use plastics

The Lenzing Group received confirmation of the full biodegradability of its fibers in fresh water by the independent research laboratory Organic Waste Systems (OWS). The new and existing international certifications conducted by OWS and issued by TÜV Austria verify that LENZING™ Viscose fibers, LENZING™ Modal fibers and LENZING™ Lyocell fibers are biodegradable in all natural and industrial environments: in the soil, compost as well as in fresh and in marine water.

The biodegradability of cellulosic products and the synthetic fiber polyester was tested in fresh water at OWS according to valid international standards, e.g. ISO 14851. At the end of the trial period, LENZING™ wood-based cellulosic fibers, cotton and paper pulp were shown to be fully biodegradable in fresh water in contrast to synthetic polyester fibers. The fact that synthetic materials are not biodegradable leads to major problems in wastewater treatment plants and potentially marine litter. In turn, this not only harms fish and birds living in and close to the oceans but also all marine organisms and us humans.

“The Lenzing Group operates a truly circular business model based on the renewable raw material wood to produce biodegradable fibers returning to nature after use. This complete cycle comprises the starting point of the core value of sustainability embedded in our company strategy sCore TEN and is the ‘raison d’etre’ of our company”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “In living up to this positioning, we not only enhance the business of our suppliers, customers and partners along the value chain but also improve the state of the entire textile and nonwovens industries.”

Both the textile and nonwovens industries face huge challenges with respect to littering. If current trends continue, the oceans could contain more plastic than fish by 2050. Therefore, legislative bodies worldwide can no longer ignore the issue and have moved towards plastics legislation aimed at limiting the vast amount of waste. In response, European lawmakers issued the Single-Use Plastics Directive currently being transposed into national legislation in the EU member states.

Conventional wet wipes and hygiene products mostly contain plastic and were thus identified as one of the product categories to be singled out. Less polluting alternatives are generally encouraged by NGOs and legislators, e.g. products made of biodegradable wood-based cellulosic fibers. Plastic waste including microplastic can persist in the environment for centuries. In contrast, biodegradable materials are the best alternative to single-use plastics because they fully convert back to nature by definition and thus do not require recycling.