From the Sector

Girbau, a company in total textile care solutions, has appointed Diego Hervás as its new President. Hervás takes on this role with the aim of supporting Girbau's planned growth, contributing his strategic vision and results-oriented approach, in line with the company's values and legacy.

Mercè Girbau, Chair and CEO, and Pere Girbau, CEO, the third generation of this family firm, will continue to perform their functions and work on long-term strategy, innovation, sustainability and corporate culture. Both highlighted Hervás' career in both multinationals and family firms, emphasizing "his ability to fit into Girbau's strategic plan and vision".

Diego Hervás' career includes over 20 years experience in executive positions in multinationals like Xerox and major family businesses like Comexi. In these projects he has proven his capacity for leadership, innovation and team management. Hervás studied Telecommunications Engineering and has complemented his training with a range of courses and master's degrees in management at prestige institutions including IESE and INSEAD.

Portuguese textile entrepreneur, Mario Jorge Machado, has been elected President of EURATEX during its General Assembly on 14 June. The Assembly also nominated Alberto Paccanelli as Honorary President.

Mario Jorge Machado has an extensive career in textiles. Mario is currently a shareholder and director of "Adalberto Textile Solutions, S.A.", where he applies advanced management practices to boost competitiveness and innovation. He has been president of the Textile and Clothing Association of Portugal (ATP) since 2019, and he stands out for his strategic leadership in the textile and clothing sector, promoting innovation and sustainability. He represents ATP on the Board of CIP - Confederação Empresarial de Portugal and chairs CIP's strategic council for the environment and sustainability.

With a degree in Production Polymer Engineering from the University of Minho, his expertise ranges from continuous process improvement to the development of B2B commercial teams and B2C business models. His vision encompasses operational excellence and the implementation of sustainable practices, contributing to the evolution of the textile industry.

The Assembly also nominated Alberto Paccanelli as Honorary President, recognising over a decade of commitment to EURATEX and the European textile industry.

EURATEX General Assembly also elected 4 other members of the Presidency Team: Michael Kamm (ZWILLING Gruppe, Germany), Barbara Cimmino (Yamamay, Italy), Grégory Marchant (UTT, France) and Ismail Kolunsag (Cross Tekstil, Turkey). During the Assembly, EURATEX also welcomed new memberships from CEMATEX and Forschungskuratorium Textil e. V., and a partnership with Reju. (France).

Rund 120 Teilnehmer aus der Wäscherei- und Reinigungsbranche kamen am 04. Juni in Casablanca, Marokko, zum ersten Texcare Forum auf afrikanischem Boden zusammen. Im Mittelpunkt des Austauschs zwischen lokalen Fachbetrieben, internationalen Experten und Herstellern standen die Themen Automatisierung, digitale Technologien, Produktion, Logistik und Umweltschutz im Bereich textiler Dienstleistungen. Die Konferenz zeigte die Besonderheiten der Märkte Nordafrikas auf und bot einen Vorgeschmack auf die globale Leitmesse der Textilpflegebranche, die Texcare International, im November 2024 in Frankfurt am Main.

Die Entscheidung für Casablanca als Veranstaltungsort des Texcare Forums lag in seiner Bedeutung als wirtschaftliches Zentrum der gesamten Maghreb-Region begründet. Mit über 100 Millionen Einwohnern, einer starken Tourismuswirtschaft und einer bedeutenden Textilindustrie ist diese ein zukunftsträchtiger Standort für die Textilpflege-Branche. Gerade Marokko erwartet als Co-Gastgeber der Fußball-Weltmeisterschaft 2030 neue ökonomische Impulse.  

Im Hotel Hyatt Regency wurde den Teilnehmern neben einem spannenden Vortragsprogramm umfassend Gelegenheit zum Netzwerken geboten. Am zweiten Veranstaltungstag konnten Interessierte sich zudem auf eine Exkursion zu führenden Wäschereien der Region begeben.

Organisatoren und Partner des Forums waren neben der Messe Frankfurt der VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies sowie die französische Handelskammer in Marokko (CFCIM). Als Hauptsponsor fungierte die Firma Christeyns, zu den weiteren Sponsoren zählten Kannegiesser, Tolon, Jensen, Imesa, ABS Laundry und CM2W.

Im Zentrum des Texcare Forum Casablanca stand ein umfassendes Konferenzprogramm In jeweils einstündigen Panels teilten Expert*innen ihr Wissen, beantworteten Fragen und standen anschließend für Fachgespräche zur Verfügung.

Gehalten wurden die Vorträge in französischer Sprache mit einer simultanen Übersetzung ins Englische. Die Moderation übernahm die Branchenexpertin Sandra Minette von der Texcare France.  

Das Programm war gegliedert in vier Themenblöcke:

• Unternehmensstrategie: Neue Digitalisierungs- und Automatisierungstechnologien
  Auf dem Texcare Forum Casablanca teilten die Branchenexperten Rémi Uriet (ABS LBS), Badre Bouitane (Blanchisserie Ecoblanc) und Andrea Garoia (Jensen) ihr Fachwissen zu Themen wie Arbeitserleichterung, Digitalisierung von Prozessen und vernetzten Unternehmenslösungen.
• Energie und Wasser
  Miloud Bouzziri (Christeyns Maroc), Aziz Lamrani (Blanchisserie AB Maroc) sowie Audrey und Arnaud Bretéché (Cabinet Bretagne Environnement) gaben anhand von Untersuchungen und praktischen Fallstudien Anregungen zur Verringerung der Umweltauswirkungen im Wäschereiprozess.
• Produktion und Logistik
  Hélène Ducarre (Optim Expertise), Patrik André (Maison de Blanc) und Badre Bouitane (Blanchisserie Ecoblanc) vermittelten neue Herangehensweisen zu Themen wie Wäsche-Nachverfolgung, Liefermanagement, der passenden Wahl von Materialien und Equipment sowie dem richtigen Umgang mit Saisonalität
• Interne Wäschepflege vs. Outsourcing
  Spannende Einblicke zur Optimierung des Wäschemanagements in einem Hotel, zur Mitarbeiterschulung und zur ewigen Frage: „Selbst machen oder auslagern?“ gaben Pascale Allaert (Meilleure Ouvrière de France), Jérôme Guéné (Laundry & Cleaning Consulting) und Lydie Barrand (Generalgouvernante des Hotels Royal Mansour Casablanca).

Johannes Schmid-Wiedersheim, Director Brand Management Textile Care, resümiert: „Mit dem Texcare Forum Casablanca wollten wir der boomenden Tourismusindustrie der Region sowie dem Gesundheits- und öffentlichen Sektor ein Forum zum Thema professionelle Wäschepflege anbieten und den Austausch mit Beratern und Lieferanten herstellen. Ich glaube, das ist sehr gut gelungen! Die Besucher konnten sich in kurzer Zeit auf den neuesten Stand der Verfahren zur Sicherung der Qualität, Hygiene und Nachhaltigkeit ihrer Textilien bringen. Für die internationalen Teilnehmer bot sich die Gelegenheit, den marokkanischen Markt mit seinen ganz spezifischen Chancen und Herausforderungen besser kennenzulernen. Schon beim Netzwerken vor Ort haben sich daraus sehr spannende Gespräche und vielleicht zukünftige Projekte entwickelt.“

Veronika März vom VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies konstatiert: „Das Texcare Forum in Casablanca bot eine ausgezeichnete Gelegenheit, einen Einblick in den aufstrebenden Markt Marokkos für Textilpflege zu erhalten. Das abwechslungsreiche und hervorragend besetze Konferenzprogramm gab interessante Einblicke zu wichtigen Branchenthemen wie der Digitalisierung von Prozessen, der Verringerung von Umweltbelastungen und vielem mehr. Zudem boten sich ausgezeichnete Gelegenheiten zum Networking und um neue Kontakte innerhalb der marokkanischen Textil(pflege)industrie zu knüpfen.“

• Decathlon und das amerikanische Unternehmen Yulex entwickeln gemeinsam Yulex100, eine Alternative zu Polychloropren (“Neopren”).
• Yulex100 besteht zu 100 % aus FSC®- und PEFC®-zertifiziertem Naturkautschuk.
• Die Neopren-Alternative wird zunächst für Surfanzüge und Schwimmtops im Decathlon Sortiment eingesetzt.

Polychloropren, besser bekannt als Neopren, ist ein Synthesekautschuk, der aus Erdöl oder Kalkstein gewonnen wird. Er ist zwar dehnbar und hält warm, aber die Herstellung ist energie- und CO₂-intensiv. Darüber hinaus ist er nicht recycelbar. Auch alternative Produkte auf dem Markt bestehen zu einem gewissen Anteil immer aus synthetischem Kautschuk.
 
Gemeinsam mit dem amerikanischen Unternehmen Yulex, das an der Erforschung und Herstellung von natürlichen Latex- und Kautschukalternativen arbeitet, ist Decathlon nun ein Durchbruch für die Entwicklung eines Schaumstoffs gelungen, der kein synthetischen Kautschuk mehr enthält. Die größte Herausforderung bestand darin, einen Ersatz für das Polymer zu finden, das die Hauptkomponente im Schaumstoff ist, ohne den Produktionsprozess, die Produktleistung oder den Preis zu verändern.  Nach zwei Jahren intensiver Forschung mit über 50 Labortests und 50 verschiedenen Rezepturen ist es gelungen, die erste Neopren-Alternative herzustellen, die frei von synthetischem Kautschuk ist und deren Rohstoff Kautschuk ausschließlich aus PEFC®- oder FSC®-zertifizierten Wäldern bezogen wird.
 
Yulex100 ist damit die erste und derzeit einzige Alternative zu Neopren, die zu 100 % aus zertifiziertem Naturkautschuk besteht. Das Material reduziert die CO₂-Äquivalent-Emissionen im Vergleich zu Neoprenschaum um 80 %, bleibt dabei genauso leicht, wärmedämmenden sowie dehnbar und erfüllt alle technischen Anforderungen der Nutzer:innen. Durch den Einsatz von zusätzlich benötigten Materialien, u.a. Reißverschlüsse, Beschichtung, Garne, verändert sich die prozentuale Reduzierung von CO₂-Äquivalent-Emissionen entsprechend des Modells. Für den Kinder-Shorty beträgt sie beispielsweise 43 %.
 
Die Neuentwicklung soll sukzessive das gesamte Neopren-Sortiment bei Decathlon ersetzen. Des Weiteren erforschen die Teams aktiv technische Lösungen für andere Wassersportarten wie Tauchen und Freiwasserschwimmen.
 
Decathlons Netto-Null-Emissionsziel
In Übereinstimmung mit dem SBTi Corporate Net Zero Standard verpflichtet sich Decathlon, bis 2050 Treibhausemissionen der gesamten Wertschöpfungskette zu reduzieren und auszugleichen. Bis zu diesem Zeitpunkt will Decathlon die absoluten CO₂-Äquivalent-Emissionen um 90 % gegenüber dem Basisjahr 2021 reduzieren. Dabei spielt der Kreislaufgedanke bei der Erreichung seiner Klimaziele und der Verringerung des ökologischen Fußabdrucks eine zentrale Rolle. Das Unternehmen intensiviert daher seine Bemühungen unter anderem um die Skalierung von zirkulären Geschäftsmodellen durch Second-Hand-Angebote, Rückkauf, Vermietung und Abonnements sowie Reparaturen und Ersatzteile. In dem Bewusstsein, dass diese Ziele nicht allein erreicht werden können, kooperiert die Sportartikelmarke mit engagierten und innovativen Partnern.

Beaulieu International Group is investing €5 million to transition the fossil based energy supply of its Cushion Vinyl production plant in Wielsbeke, Belgium, to bio mass generated steam supply. A transition to renewable energy. To this end, B.I.G. is collaborating with A&U Energie, a company that converts non-recyclable wood waste into green energy and heat. This strategic move aligns with B.I.G.'s commitment to reach ‘net zero’ for their operations by 2030.

The transition from fossil energy to green steam and the switch to waste gas treatment without direct fossil energy brings significant benefits. First, the switch in technology will lead to 88% reduction in their Belgian Cushion Vinyl carbon footprint related to heat supply and waste gas treatment, compared to the current emissions. Second, the use of steam heating and electric energy provides improved energy efficiency. In addition, the use of steam systems is known for its safety and reliability, providing a safer and more stable heating solution for the Belgian Cushion Vinyl facility. Moreover, the switch to steam and electric energy allows for the use of green electricity in the future, if available.

In addition to transitioning to 100% green energy, Beaulieu International Group is also dedicated to advancing the circular economy. These efforts encompass various initiatives, including increasing the use of recycled and reused materials. For example, 50% of B.I.G.'s PVC floor coverings are already fully recyclable. Additionally, they are actively working to reduce the environmental impact of their solutions by 42% at the end of their life cycle, striving to minimize product emissions to nearly zero, and eliminating pollutants. Recently at the Belgian Flanders Flooring Days, Beauflor launched its Twilight collection, a cushion vinyl floor created with PVC from 100% bio and circular sources resulting in a 40% reduced CO₂ footprint compared to their conventional heterogeneous CV flooring for residential applications

Furthermore, their cushion vinyl brand Beauflor launched the ReLive concept, a specialized program designed for a circular future, ensuring the collection, sorting, and recycling of PVC flooring cutting waste. Currently, this program focuses on post-installation waste and is exclusively available in France, with the goal of expanding its reach to other EU countries.

Through the establishment of strategic partnerships dedicated to finding innovative ways to repurpose waste materials previously slated for incineration, B.I.G. underscores its commitment to sustainable solutions and collaboration with like-minded organizations. 75% of B.I.G.'s post-industrial waste is now being successfully recycled.

The Lectra Group company announced a new collaboration between TextileGenesis, the textile traceability platform and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®). It will enable the implementation, via the TextileGenesis platform, of new solutions to ensure the traceability of cellulose fibers from responsibly managed forests.

In fashion, many textiles such as viscose, lyocell and modal use man-made cellulose fibers. These fibers are themselves made from wood pulp, the production of which can contribute to deforestation.

Founded in 1994, the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®) is an international NGO whose mission is to promote responsible forest management worldwide. In particular, the organization offers certification for products and raw materials which have been obtained from wood grown in responsibly managed forests, and comes from supply chains where social rights of workers, communities and indigenous peoples have been safeguarded.

Amit Gautam, founder and CEO of TextileGenesis, explains: "We've already been working with Man Made Cellulosic Fiber Producers for several years to facilitate, thanks to our blockchain-inspired technology, the traceability of fibers manufactured by the most virtuous producers, and we've integrated their analysis criteria into our platform. By also becoming an FSC® partner today, we're taking things a step further. This new collaboration will support companies in the traceability of FSC certified fibers and support the administration and data management of FSC Chain of Custody certification. All players in the value chain will benefit from increased transparency and much more reliable upstream data. Fashion brands will be able to demonstrate much more easily that their garments use textiles made from responsibly sourced man-made cellulose fibers."

Fabian Farkas, FSC International Chief Commercial Director, adds: “We are seeing a rapid increase in interest in FSC certification from the textile industry, marking a very positive trend. Through this collaboration with TextileGenesis, we aim to simplify the administrative part of FSC certification for companies within the textile supply chain by automating many required data processes. Our goal is to empower brands to identify opportunities for seamless progress in meeting their FSC procurement policies.”

Following the signature in October 2023 of a memorandum of understanding with the International Cotton Association (ICA) and the launch last January of two consortiums with footwear and leather players, and more recently the announcement of its partnership with the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF), the initiator of The Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS), TextileGenesis confirms, with this new collaboration with the FSC®, its central place in the ecosystem of players mobilizing for more sustainable and responsible fashion.

The Western Development Commission (WDC) announces the successful funding of the THREAD project. Supported by the Interreg Northern Periphery and Arctic Programme, THREADs (Textile and Habiliment Reuse for the Environment and NPA Area Development) is set to launch a transformative three-year initiative starting in September 2024, focusing on innovative textile waste management.

THREADs aims to significantly reduce textile waste in the Northern Periphery and Arctic region. With a total budget of €1.5 million, the project will implement a range of innovative approaches across the textile lifecycle—from design to disposal. This initiative includes trialling smart waste collection methods, enhancing circular practices, and integrating social inclusion initiatives in circularity efforts. Additionally, the project will explore new business models to support sustainable practices.

The project unites a diverse group of partners from across Europe, reflecting a collaborative effort to tackle an urgent environmental issue. The lead partner, Kajaani University of Applied Sciences from Finland, is joined by other key stakeholders including the Municipality of Kittilä, Kiertokaari Ltd, Remiks Husholdning AS from Norway, Technological University of the Shannon – Forge Design Factory from Ireland, University of Boras and Lulea Miljoresurs AB from Sweden, and the Icelandic Textile Center.

The funding announcement marks a crucial step towards implementing effective solutions that address both the environmental impact of textile waste and the challenges posed by fast fashion in sparsely populated areas. By focusing on sustainability and efficient resource use, THREADs is poised to create meaningful change in the way textile management is approached in the NPA region.

drupa 2024 in Düsseldorf drew to a successful close on 7 June after eleven days. 1,643 exhibitors from 52 nations presented a showcase of innovations in the Düsseldorf exhibition halls and thrilled the trade visitors with performances. The international share of the visitors was 80%, with attendees coming from 174 countries. After Europe, Asia was the most strongly represented region with 22%, followed by America with 12%.  Asia as well as Latin America and the MENA region are markets with great growth potential, which was reflected in the significant increase in exhibitors' presence and order books.

Exhibitors praised the high level of decision-making competence of visitors. They, in turn, gave top marks to the range of products and services on offer in the 18 exhibition halls. Around 96% of all visitors confirmed that they had fully achieved the objectives associated with their visit. At over 50%, most of them came from the printing industry, followed by the packaging industry, whose share has increased significantly and which was the focus of many exhibitors as a growth driver. In total, 170,000 trade visitors attended drupa 2024.

Digitalisation
Automation took centre stage at this year’s drupa, with a strong focus on AI and smart workflows, including software solutions. It became clear that digital and analogue technologies ideally complement and benefit from each other. Traditional industry leaders presented a wide range of digital solutions, while digital pioneers integrated conventional components into their offerings. Robotics played an important role in the exhibition halls and illustrated the path towards the smart factory.

Transformation and growth
drupa made it clear that the industry has great potential for the future, even against the backdrop of many challenges, and that the prospects are promising. In the last financial year, the global printing industry achieved a turnover of around EUR 840 billion (source: Smithers) and continues to develop at varying pace worldwide.
Many new strategic alliances concluded at the trade fair reflected the opportunities that are only possible in such a concentrated form at drupa.

Sustainable technologies
Technology is the key to achieving sustainability goals - exhibitors at drupa illustrated this with numerous practice-orientated developments and concrete solutions. Top priority is given to resource efficiency and the path to a functioning circular economy. In addition, Touchpoint Sustainability from the VDMA, the German Machinery and Equipment Manufacturers’ Association, showcased current state of the art innovations, presented best-practice use cases and gave a far-reaching outlook into the future of a sustainable printing industry.

Knowledge transfer
The supporting programme with its five special forums drupa cube, drupa next age (dna) and the Touchpoints Packaging, Textile and Sustainability was well received. In times of constant change and the resulting new business models, they ensured an intensive transfer of knowledge and provided important guidance. Guided tours on various key topics rounded off the trade fair experience.

The next drupa will be held in 2028.

A new type of pure synthetic leather meets the requirements of the European Ecodesign Regulation. Made from a bio-based plastic, it is biodegradable and meets the requirements for a closed recycling process.

Many synthetic leathers consist of a textile substrate to which a polymer layer is applied. The polymer layer usually consists of an adhesive layer and a top layer, which is usually embossed. The textile backing and the top coat are usually completely different materials. Woven, knitted, or nonwoven fabrics made of PET, PET/cotton, or polyamide are often used as textile substrates. PVC and various polyurethanes are commonly used for coatings. The use of these established composite materials does not meet today's sustainability criteria. Recycling them by type is very costly or even impossible. They are not biodegradable. The search for alternative materials for the production of artificial leather is therefore urgent. In 2022, the EU adopted the Sustainable Products Initiative (SPI) ("Green Deal"). It includes an eco-design regulation that considers a product's life cycle in the conservation of resources. For textile and product design, this means incorporating closing the loop or end-of-life into product development.

In an AiF project carried out in close cooperation between the DITF and the Freiberg Institute gGmbH (FILK), it has now been possible to develop a synthetic leather in which both the fiber material and the coating polymer are identical. The varietal purity is a prerequisite for an industrial recycling concept.

The aliphatic polyester polybutylene succinate (PBS) was recommended as the base material because of its properties. PBS can be produced from biogenic sources and is now available on the market in several grades and in large quantities. Its biodegradability has been demonstrated in tests. The material can be processed thermoplastically. This applies to both the fiber material and the coating. Subsequent product recycling is facilitated by the thermoplastic properties.

In order to realize a successful primary spinning process and to obtain PBS filaments with good textile mechanical properties, process adjustments had to be made in the cooling shaft at the DITF. In the end, it was possible to spin POY yarns at relatively high speeds of up to 3,000 m/min, which had a tenacity of just under 30 cN/tex when stretched. The yarns could be easily processed into pure PBS fabrics. These in turn were used at FILK as a textile base substrate for the subsequent extrusion coating, where PBS was also used as a thermoplastic.

With optimized production steps, PBS composite materials with the typical structure of artificial leather could be produced. Purity and biodegradability fulfill the requirements for a closed recycling process.

Lifestyle brand Napapijri has released a range of sustainable summer essentials for men, women and kids, using Good Earth Cotton®.

The partnership between Napapijri and Good Earth Cotton® highlights the brand’s aim to source 100% of its materials from regenerative, responsibly sourced, renewable or recycled sources by 2030. The range includes premium knitwear including T-shirts, polos and more.

Good Earth Cotton is a production system verified as having a positive Net Zero position. The Australian-grown program focuses on regenerative farming that improves soil health, enhances biodiversity and sequesters carbon ensuring that it not only has a neutral impact on the environment but net positive one.

One of the most innovative aspects of Good Earth Cotton® is the use of FibreTrace® technology, a real time verification for fibre integrity. Unlike other traceability technologies, FibreTrace® embeds luminescent pigments into the raw cotton, creating a unique signature to verify the fibre and track across the global supply chain. Luminescent pigments are pigments that create physical traceability locked to a scanning device. FibreTrace® also validates the data of the raw cotton fibre and sustainability improvements through the supply chain.

Each product in Napapijri’s Good Earth Cotton® range comes with a QR code on the label which can be scanned to display the products supply chain journey from fibre to store.