From the Sector

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has published a new report on ‘Key areas of regulatory challenge 2023’ that identifies areas where research is needed to protect people and the environment from hazardous chemicals. It also highlights where new methods, that support the shift away from animal testing, are needed.

To further improve chemical safety in the EU, scientific research needs to deliver data that is relevant to regulating chemicals. In order to enhance the regulatory relevance of scientific data, ECHA has identified the following areas as priorities for research:

• Hazard identification for critical biological effects that currently lack specific and sensitive test methods: i.e. developmental and adult neurotoxicity, immunotoxicity and endocrine disruption
• Chemical pollution in the natural environment (bioaccumulation, impact on biodiversity, exposure assessment)
• Shift away from animal testing (read across under REACH, move away from fish testing, mechanistic support to toxicology studies e.g. carcinogenicity)
• New information on chemicals (polymers, nanomaterials, analytical methods in support of enforcement)

Background
The European Partnership for the Assessment of Risks from Chemicals (PARC), is a seven-year EU-wide research and innovation programme under Horizon Europe which aims to advance research, share knowledge and improve skills in chemical risk assessment.

ECHA’s role in PARC is to make sure that the funded scientific research addresses current challenges related to chemical risk assessment and adds value to the EU’s regulatory processes.

The key areas of regulatory challenge report can be seen as an evolving research and development agenda aiming to support and inspire the Partnership for the Assessment of Risks from Chemicals (PARC) and the wider research community. The list of research needs is not exhaustive. The next update to the report is expected in spring 2024.

A delegation of 12 Italian textile machinery manufacturers will be on hand at the ITME Africa trade show, to be held in Nairobi (Kenya) from November 30th to December 2nd 2023. These Italian companies will be exhibiting at the Italian Pavilion, organized by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and by the Italian Trade Agency.

Kenya’s economy is among the most dynamic in sub-Saharan Africa, with annual GDP growth rates of around 6%. Its textile and garments industry ranks among the Country’s leading economic revenue sources, and is supported by government programs aimed at sustaining growth, as well as international agreements, such as the Economic Partnership Agreement (EPA) between the European Union and Kenya, currently in the process of ratification.

The total value of Kenya’s imports of textile machinery reached Euros 24 million in 2022. In the future, demand from local companies will mainly focus on high-end and medium to high-end technology, thus allowing Italian manufacturers to strengthen their market share in Kenya. Currently, Italian imports amount to approximately 4% of total imported machinery technology, for a value of roughly Euros 900 thousands in 2022.

Among the 12 Italian exhibitors the following ones are ACIMIT associated members: Biancalani, Bianco; Danitech, Ferraro, Lgl, Mei, Monti Antonio, Reggiani Macchine, Savio, Stalam and Tomsic.

PREMIUM Berlin will not take place in January 2024. The critical developments in the industry, and the changed global economic situation are presenting big trade fair formats with a new dimension of challenges.
 
PREMIUM, which started as an underdog in 2003 and established an entire segment in the industry, has developed into an icon. The original concepts and approaches have shaped the fashion world. However, as is so often the case in the fast-moving fashion industry, even outstanding success stories come to an end. The management team led by Anita Tillmann and Jörg Arntz recognised this change and paved the way for SEEK, which was launched in 2009.
 
The entire industry has changed significantly in recent years and is still undergoing a transformation. It has become clear that large trade fairs are no longer in keeping with the times. Instead, boutique trade fairs and specialised events are trending. Events like SEEK enable a closer connection between exhibitors, visitors and the community, which is of great economic and social importance in today's world.

SEEK, which has focussed on its core segment in recent years and serves the streetwear segment, will continue its mission with its loyal network. The platform has not only established itself for forward-thinking brands, but is also the proud organiser of the "Conscious Club", the largest hub on the topic of sustainability in the industry. Here, visitors and exhibitors will not only find the most important trends and ideas in the field of sustainability, but also the most exciting new collections from the pioneers who are responsible for the positive changes.
 
With a clear focus on product quality, community building and strong values such as honesty, creativity, and resilience, SEEK is able to meet the needs of its target audience. So far, the feedback from the committed brands has been consistently positive. The SEEK team is pleased to be able to continue to rely on this commitment and build on it. Around 200 brands are expected again in January.
Berlin will continue to be a place where new trends are set, creative collaborations are formed, and business is done.
 
Although the decision to close PREMIUM is the end of an era, it does not mean the end for the fashion world, but rather opens new doors and enables new opportunities. SEEK is ready to shape this change with like-minded partners and continue to make a significant contribution to the development of the industry.

HeiQ AeoniQ™ becomes an active brand partner of the Canopy initiative with eleven other companies to address the growing climate and biodiversity crises by committing to keep Ancient and Endangered Forests out of our man-made cellulosic fiber supply chain.

The commitments that HeiQ AeoniQ™ is making are part of solutions-driven non-profit Canopy’s Pack4Good and CanopyStyle initiatives which currently represent collectively 950 brand partners. Together, the initiatives are shifting supply chains away from vital forests to low-impact, circular Next Gen Solutions.

“We must rapidly replace oil-based polyester in the textile industry causing microplastics, global warming, landfill and ecosystem degradation. Cellulose is the most abundant biopolymer in the world and is best suited to replace polyester. However, we must pay attention to cellulose feedstock sources. Our forests, a potential cellulose feedstock, are one of the most important solutions to addressing the effects of climate change. Approximately 2.6 billion tons of carbon dioxide, one-third of the CO₂ released from burning fossil fuels, is absorbed by forests every year. Around 12.5% of global greenhouse gas emissions (5-10 GtCO₂e annually) come from deforestation. We are losing forests at an alarming rate. Every year, around 10 million hectares of forests globally are destroyed. We need immediate action to increase forests again. Canopy is our go-to partner to replace polyester with circular & sustainable cellulose feedstock for our innovative HeiQ AeoniQ™ fiber revolution.” said Carlo Centonze, HeiQ Group CEO.

Paper packaging is also a key driver of forest loss globally, as 3.1 billion trees are cut down annually to produce the boxes and bags in which products are packaged and shipped. Paper packaging production has increased by 65% over the past two years.

“The range of companies and sectors represented in today’s announcement reflects the breadth of market response to the growing climate and biodiversity crises and intensifying supply chain disruptions,” said Nicole Rycroft, Founder and Executive Director of Canopy. “Today’s brand partners add significant momentum to global conservation efforts and the movement to transform ‘take, make, waste’ supply chains to be lower-impact and Next Gen.”

Today, as part of Pack4Good, HeiQ AeoniQ™ committed to:

• Eliminate Ancient and Endangered Forests from our paper packaging supply chain.
• Reduce material use through design innovation.
• Maximize recycled content.
• Explore and scale alternative Next Gen fibers (such as agricultural residues).
• Where virgin fiber is necessary, use FSC-certified fiber.

KARL MAYER GROUP startet mit seinem Geschäftsbereich Wirkmaschinen das Projekt „Integrierte Produktentwicklung“ zusammen mit dem IPEK – Institut für Produktentwicklung am Karlsruher Institut für Technologie (KIT).

Das gemeinsame Projekt kombiniert Praxis und Forschung und startete am 12. Oktober 2023 mit einem Kick-off-Meeting am Hauptsitz der KARL MAYER GROUP in Obertshausen. Hauptakteure sind 42 IPEK-Studierende, die in sieben Teams getrennt voneinander in einer kompakten Schaffensphase exklusiv Lösungen für eine einheitlich vom Unternehmen gestellte Innovationsaufgabe entwickeln. Die Ergebnisse – je ein Prototyp pro Arbeitsgruppe – sind bereits im Februar 2024 zu präsentieren. Zudem werden vielfältige positive Impulse für die Entwicklungstätigkeit im eigenen Hause erwartet, denn Innovationen brauchen neben guten Ideen auch zielführende Methoden.

Prototypen, methodisches Know-how und mehr
Gegenstand der Aufgabe bei KARL MAYER ist die Wirkmaschine. Sie ist gezielt zu optimieren, damit sie die Nutzungsansprüche der Kunden von morgen erfüllt. Der Blick in die Zukunft soll dabei bis ins Jahr 2030 reichen.
Knut Wantzen, der interne Auftraggeber des Vorhabens, erhofft sich Inspirationen durch den Blick von außen und Lerneffekte. „Wir erfahren mehr über das Vorgehen hinter einem perfekten Innovationsprozess und über neueste Produktentwicklungsmethoden und bekommen Ideen, was damit möglich ist“, sagt der Leiter der Abteilung Advanced Features bei KARL MAYER.
Bei der Lösung der gestellten Aufgabe nutzen die Youngsters neuestes Organisations-Know-how und moderne Entwicklungsmethoden des IPEK – Forschungsschwerpunkte des Instituts – sowie bewährte Tools aus ähnlichen Vorhaben. Das Projekt gibt es bereits seit 25 Jahren. Es läuft jedes Jahr einmal mit einem anderen ausgewählten Partner, darunter große Unternehmen wie BMW, Bosch, TRUMPF und Hilti. KARL MAYER freut sich, 2023 dabei zu sein.
Darüber hinaus versprechen sich Knut Wantzen und Projektleiterin Alexandra Bahnmann positive Effekte beim Brand-Building und bei der Akquisition von Fachkräften. „An dem begehrten Praxis-Projekt des IPEK nehmen nur ausgewählte, leistungsstarke, top-ausgebildete Studierende teil – eine gute Gelegenheit für uns, sich ihnen als innovativer Arbeitgeber zu präsentieren“, sagt die Innovationsmanagerin bei KARL MAYER.

Bewährtes Vorgehen bei anspruchsvoller Aufgabe
Alle Arbeiten für das anspruchsvolle Ziel liegen in den Händen der Studierenden. Von der Marktanalyse bis zum Bau des Prototyps erfolgt alles in Eigenregie der angehenden Maschinenbauer, Wirtschaftsingenieure, Mechatroniker und Elektroniker – und nach einem straffen Fahrplan.
Beim Kick-off im Oktober bei der KARL MAYER GROUP erfuhren die Fachkräfte in spe erstmals, wer ihr Auftraggeber ist. Sie lernten das Unternehmen bei einer maschinennahen Werksführung kennen und konnten bei einer Abendveranstaltung wichtige Kontakte knüpfen. Gleich darauf ging’s zurück zum IPEK, zum Start der eigentlichen Arbeit. In mehreren Phasen werden Recherchen durchgeführt, Potenziale abgeschätzt, Szenarien entwickelt und Trends analysiert. Es entstehen Ideen und Konzepte, die etappenweise nach regelmäßigen Meilenstein-Meetings mit der KARL MAYER GROUP priorisiert und konkretisiert werden. Die Entscheidungen für den jeweils nächsten Schritt trifft ein Komitee des Auftraggebers.

Die Resultate, sieben Prototypen, werden im Februar 2024 bei einer Abschlussveranstaltung mit In-house-Messe am IPEK in Karlsruhe vorgestellt.

Kelheim Fibres GmbH and the Italian textile machinery manufacturer, Santoni Spa, were honoured with the ITMF International Cooperation Award 2023 during the ITMF Annual Conference in Keqiao, China. This recognition by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) acknowledges outstanding achievements in international collaboration within the textile industry in alignment with the values of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development.

Together, Kelheim Fibres and Santoni have developed a sustainable period panty, built upon advanced machine technology and high-performance viscose fibres.

Santoni's specialized machinery enables a reduction in fabric waste, or even the potential for entirely waste-free production. Simultaneously, it enhances production efficiency, leading to cost savings. Kelheim Fibres' wood-based specialty fibres, such as the trilobal Galaxy® and the hollow Bramante fibre, replace synthetic materials in the absorbent core of the menstrual underwear. They offer excellent performance and reliable protection for the wearer.

TrusTrace, a SaaS (Software as a Service) company with a platform for supply chain traceability and compliance data management, announced that PIP Global Safety, a supplier of protective workwear equipment with over 30 brands globally, has selected the TrusTrace platform to support its traceability needs, including evidence collection to prove compliance for the UFLPA (Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act).

PIP Global Safety will now leverage verified, real-time data on the TrusTrace platform to provide deeper visibility into the cotton used within the Company’s PPE and workwear products. The partnership will also improve the efficiency of chain of custody data collection for UFLPA compliance – a U.S. regulation that is compelling companies to assess risks in their supply chain and implement processes to ensure that suppliers are not using forced labor.

PIP Global Safety previously managed their supply chain traceability manually; now, TrusTrace will automate the process, changing how data is collected, digitized and shared. “After an extensive vetting process, we selected TrusTrace as our traceability platform because of their ability to provide us with detailed, product-level data that enables us to thoroughly and accurately map our supply chains,” said Nathan McCormick, Senior VP of Operations & Integrated Supply Chain at PIP Global Safety. “While a lot of laws and regulations around due diligence have not yet come into force, we are taking a proactive approach to ensure that we’re ahead of the curve to support our customers’ needs while proactively monitoring for risk of forced labor in our supply chain.”

In addition to supporting regulatory compliance, TrusTrace supports PIP Global Safety’s long-standing sustainability and social responsibility initiatives. PIP Global Safety has pledged to continually identify opportunities to minimize their environmental footprint while still maximizing protection against occupational hazards. This commitment extends to multiple aspects of the business, including Manufacturing Processes, Sustainability-Driven Programs, Recycled Products, Social Sustainability and Future Initiatives.

Hexcel will continue to celebrate its 75th anniversary and highlight its latest developments for the Marine market at METSTRADE 2023 on November 15-17. Hexcel will showcase innovative advanced lightweight material technologies including new intermediate and high modulus fiber HexPly® M79 prepregs and present example high-performance superyacht and windship components developed by customers using Hexcel materials.

The new intermediate modulus prepreg combines the low temperature curing and simple processing of the DNV GL accredited HexPly M79 resin system with the market-leading stiffness of HexTow® IM2C fiber, creating a uniquely optimized composite material for highly loaded components. Originally developed to provide best-in-class performance for America’s Cup and IMOCA hull and deck structures, the new combination minimizes structural deformation under load in parts such as rigs, foils, and other appendages.

For a high modulus solution, HexTow® HM54 fiber is also now available with the HexPly M79 resin system. The unique mechanical properties of HexTow HM54 fiber allow structural designers to achieve higher safety margins for both stiffness and strength critical applications. Both products can be manufactured with Hexcel G-Vent technology for out-of-autoclave processing, delivering a reduction in process time and cost without compromising mechanical performance.

Hexcel will also display customer products that have benefited from the performance and processing gains provided by HexPly materials. A section of a Solid Sail mast made using Bureau Veritas (BV)-approved HexPly® M9.6 prepregs will be exhibited at METS. Such masts are used for wind propulsion and, by harnessing the power of ocean winds, they reduce reliance on engines, reducing fuel usage and emissions.

Visitors to the Hexcel booth will also see a section of a radar arch part from luxury motor yacht builder Sunseeker made using HexPly® XF surfacing technology and HexPly® SuperFIT semi-pregs. The part is lighter in weight and stiffer than versions made using resin-infusion processes and de-molds with a pinhole-free surface that needs minimal preparation to be ready for painting. Sunseeker has recorded an overall reduction in process time and material costs of around 30% against traditional prepreg parts, using Hexcel composite materials.

PrimaLoft, Inc. hat Anne Cavassa zur neuen Präsidentin des Unternehmens ernannt. Dieser strategische Schritt unterstreicht das Engagement von PrimaLoft, Wachstum, Innovation und Nachhaltigkeit weiter voranzutreiben. Mike Joyce wird PrimaLoft weiterhin als CEO leiten und sich auf die langfristigen strategischen Aktivitäten sowie die Ausrichtung des Unternehmens konzentrieren. Cavassa wird die Verantwortung für das Tagesgeschäft übernehmen und beiden werden eng zusammenarbeiten.

Cavassa kommt mit einer beeindruckenden Erfolgsbilanz zu PrimaLoft. In ihren bisherigen Rollen standen vor allem Wachstumsförderung durch strategische Unternehmensausrichtung und Förderung eines kollaborativen Umfelds im Fokus. Zuletzt war sie als Präsidentin von Saucony tätig und hatte außerdem Führungspositionen bei Brooks, Nike und Timberland inne. Cavassa bringt eine Fülle von Erfahrungen mit, um die Marktposition von PrimaLoft weiter zu stärken. Denn sie war im Schuh- und im Bekleidungsbereich, Produktdesign, Merchandising, Brand-Marketing, Customer Experience und Fachhandel tätig.

Die Jury des German Design Award 2024 hat die fünf Finalist*innen für die Auszeichnung „Newcomer“ ausgewählt: Leonie Burkhardt, Justus Hilfenhaus, Nicolas König, das studio formagora (Finn Blankenberg, Esra Heuermann, Nick Potter) und Sebastian Winter haben die Jury mit ihren Portfolios aus den Disziplinen Textildesign, Produktdesign, Architektur, Partizipatives Design und Digital Design überzeugt. Mit innovativen Lösungen für aktuelle soziale wie ökologische Fragestellungen und zukunftsweisenden Ideen, Projekten und Produkten auf hohem Niveau beweisen sie, welch entscheidende Rolle jungen Designtalenten für die erfolgreichen Transformationsprozesse unserer Zeit zukommt.

Der Award belegt damit die Bedeutung von jungem Design für die Wettbewerbs- und Zukunftsfähigkeit mittelständischer Unternehmen und der (deutschen) Wirtschaft – als Motoren der Weiterentwicklung sind Jungdesigner*innen mit ihren Future Skills für deren Innovationskompetenz maßgeblich. Kollaboratives Arbeiten, interdisziplinärer Austausch, Offenheit, Experimentierfreude und Forschergeist ziehen sich durch die Portfolios der Finalist*innen. Sie alle setzen sich mit Chancen von Veränderungen auseinander, reagieren auf eine sich immer schneller wandelnde Welt, arbeiten sowohl konzeptionell als auch experimentell und wagen sich an spielerische Lösungen für komplexe Herausforderungen. Die große inhaltliche Bandbreite, Diversität an Perspektiven und deren jeweilige Umsetzung in die Praxis hat die Jury des German Design Award 2024 überzeugt. Sie erhalten die Chance auf die mit 15.000 Euro dotierte Auszeichnung des German Design Award, die am 26. Januar 2024 in Frankfurt am Main vergeben wird.

Mit der Auszeichnung stärkt die Stiftung Rat für Formgebung die Sichtbarkeit junger Designer*innen durch die Möglichkeit, sich und ihre Arbeiten der internationalen Design-Community, Industrie und Wirtschaft sowie der Öffentlichkeit zu präsentieren. In einer Reihe von exklusiven Anlässen des Rat für Formgebung haben die Finalist*innen zudem Gelegenheit, Mitglieder der Stiftung Rat für Formgebung kennenzulernen und wichtige Wirtschaftskontakte zu knüpfen. Zu den ehemaligen Preisträger*innen gehören zahlreiche heute namhafte Designer*innen wie Eva Marguerre, Marcel Besau, Sebastian Herkner und Christian Zanzotti.