From the Sector

• Reduction of material usage by up to 50 percent through innovative draping strategy in the production of fibre composite materials

In fibre reinforced plastic (FRP) production, stamp forming is one of the most economical processes for automated large-scale production, e.g. in the BMW i-series. However, the current processes are susceptible to draping errors and a high proportion of waste. An innovative process developed at the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University, short ITA, can now significantly reduce the scrap rate and reduce the waste rate of high-priced reinforcing textiles, such as carbon fibre textiles, by up to 50 percent. Sven Schöfer from ITA achieved this effect with his work "Development of a textile-based material feed to increase the preform quality during stamp forming of reinforcing layers". On 10 September 2019, he won the third AVK Innovation Prize in the "Research and Science" category at Composite Europe in Stuttgart, Germany.

Current process
In stamp forming, clamping grippers are usually used in industry to feed the stacked individual layers to the forming process and position them on the lower tool via a clamping frame or hold-down device. Due to the clamping grippers, the cutting proportion of cost-intensive reinforcing textiles is high, as additional material at the textile edge is necessary with clamping systems. Other approaches to feeding the reinforcing semi-finished product during forming and simultaneously improving the draping quality are also not economical: they are usually only designed for certain textile cuts, cannot be automated, are prone to errors or are expensive special solutions.

There is currently no system in the industry that can apply retention forces along a final contour with low waste and remains flexible in terms of geometry.

Innovative approach of Sven Schöfer
The innovative process developed by Sven Schöfer works with a detachable textile joint, a so-called tufting seam. It allows the single layers to slide off during the forming process under a retention force dependent on the seam design.

This reduces or completely eliminates draping errors in previously critical areas, even with complex preform geometries. This leads to a significant increase in preform quality and a reduction in scrap rates. The process is also highly efficient, as tensile forces can be applied to any component geometry on near-net-shape blanks. This reduces the material input by up to 50 percent.

• Customer Story
• Technology takes uniform making to the next level
• To meet new challenges in the professional garment market and preserve over a century of savoir-faire, Balsan chose Lectra to modernize its production tools.

The challenge

A Groupe Marck company, Balsan designs and manufactures corporate and ceremonial clothing, tailored and customized uniforms, and personal protective equipment and clothing for the public and private sector which comply with international standards. The biggest challenge is to meet the new expectations of customers who seek increasing levels of customization with ever-shorter time-to-market deadlines.
The professional garment sector is subject to the same pressures as prêt-à-porter, and Balsan’s challenge was to produce customized clothing more quickly using intelligent manufacturing methods.

Results

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process. “Using a measurement chart, Fashion On Demand by Lectra allowed us to generate well-adapted and customized patterns with which to produce our garments. The solution also provides extensive flexibility: we can send the model to the cutter, select the cutting orders and  even group them by fabric, and detect defects and launch re-cuts when necessary. This improves overall performance and delivers estimated productivity gains of 7%”. Stéphane Quiniou, Industrial and Quality Director, Groupe Marck

Lectra's response

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process.

PREMIUM GROUP announces a strategic partnership with JOOR – the world’s largest wholesale platform based in the US.

The organiser of the PREMIUM and SEEK trade shows as well as the #FASHIONTECH BERLIN conference had been looking for a strong digital platform and a partner to facilitate the step into the US market for its exhibitors for quite some time.

“With JOOR we have now found the perfect match and digital complement to support our network in entering the US market and growing sales,” explains Jörg Arntz, Managing Director of the PREMIUM GROUP. “Both our companies share the philosophy of being more impactful in joining forces and thinking beyond the boundaries. Strong networks, both online and offline, have never been as crucial as in these times of serious market transformation.”

The Group leading facility GENESIS, to drive a new path: when responsible quality means social development

The third time at the Kingpins China Tour (Guangzhou – Hangzhou I September 4 & 6), has been the chance to present the new strategic path undertaken by GENESIS:M&J GROUP. The Group’s leading facility GENESIS aims to explore new business possibilities in the Chinese market through innovative and sustainable developments, showing the interconnections between quality production and a truly responsible approach, one that must also become socially conscious.

GENESIS:M&J GROUP obtained two prestigious LEED Platinum certifications in recent years, and June 2019 saw them being granted the LEED Earth for the Genesis Washing Ltd. facility, confirming its ability to stay at the forefront of quality apparel manufacturing, providing reliability and top-notch services. For the new edition of the Kingpins China Tour, the company has undertaken new developments in terms of responsibility, intended on a double track: improving the eco-conscious production processes while taking significant initiatives in terms of social responsibility.

The new generation of smart - and water saving! – cotton, an innovative brand-new collaborative business model bringing companies together to create smart and sustainable collections for the wardrobe, a textile ‘bank’ to inspire and empower creatives committed to design responsible fashion and more…

C.L.A.S.S. – the acronym for Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy - is the global resource for smart material innovation, education, marketing and communication. Founded by Giusy Bettoni - entrepreneur, innovator as well as Première Vision’s sustainability consultant - the platform has become an influential player supporting leading textile and fashion companies to develop, establish and narrate their true sustainable commitment. In Paris, C.L.A.S.S. will bring forward its vision and strategy with a set of initiatives, talks and projects.

“For the third time, we will join Première Vision’s SMART CREATION district with a triple mission: providing all strategic tools to trigger change, raising awareness on sustainability and bringing companies and professionals together to share the ultimate smart innovation.” Explains Giusy Bettoni.

partner confirms start-up date of the project in Thailand

With the recently announced plans to establish a lyocell production facility in Thailand, the Lenzing Group is taking an important step in meeting the strong demand for lyocell fibers and is further strengthening the company´s position as an industry leader in the specialty cellulosic fibers market. The proposed plant will be the largest lyocell plant in the world, with an annual capacity of 100,000 tons. The total investment volume for the first production line, including infrastructure and site development, amounts to approximately EUR 400 million. Up to four such lines can be potentially integrated and operated on the site. The project is of great importance to Lenzing as it is the first step in bringing lyocell production to Asia, featuring the largest markets, the most important customers and the most extensive growth potential in specialty fiber production.

Heimtextil will launch the new 2020/2021 trend season with the general theme “WHERE I BELONG”. For the official Heimtextil Trend Preview, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam director Anne Marie Commandeur  introduced the new design themes. The presentation in the run-up to Heimtextil (7-10 January 2020) took place at the Textile Museum’s Textile Lab in Tilburg, the Netherlands on 11 September 2019 and was streamed worldwide.

This season, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam is responsible for the Trend Book content and Trend Space implementation at the upcoming international trade fair for home and contract textiles. Alongside Stijlinstituut Amsterdam, London-based studio FranklinTill and Danish agency SPOTT trends & business contributed to the 20/21 global forecast for perspective-related interior design. Together with the Heimtextil management team, these Trend Council participants gave insights into future styles during a workshop.

At the annual international Trend Council workshop, identity was an ever-present topic: part of a broader discussion on gender and cultural diversity, on tolerance and curiosity. Today, the self-identification process seems more complex than ever. Identities are now formed through experiences that take place simultaneously, on different levels. Locally, nationally, globally, both online and offline. Identity therefore can consist of many different layers. In fact, individuals can all have multilayered identities.

Heimtextil Trends 20/21 Overview:

MAXIMUM GLAM

Pleasure seekers revel in layering theatrical influences and glamorous showtime aesthetics, forging a fantastic marriage between the crafted and digitally rendered. Textiles show a ‘more is more’ attitude through a mash-up of glam, gradients and spectrums, fake fur, pile and fringe, jacquard weaves and fantastic prints. The flashy, kitsch colour range becomes brutally glam thanks to electric sheen, synthetic shimmer, digital glitch and artful blur. A riot of clashes and rebellion.

PURE SPIRITUAL

Idealists seek perfection and purity, restoring equilibrium by connecting with the uber-natural. They embrace technology for good while shifting between realism and mysticism in pursuit of a personal haven. To address a renewed bond with nature, organic matter, raw materials and pure textiles are selected which show nature’s traces, organic structures and irregularities. Shades are created from the earth and cultured by man. An elemental and pure range reflects the source of their existence.

ACTIVE URBAN

Urban dwellers confront the challenges of the fast paced, shape-shifting, man-made environment by searching for utilitarian, adaptable solutions. They value tech performance while making smart use of  available and renewable resources. Functionality is prioritised, while looking cool and working well remains key. Interior/sportswear hybrid textiles show smooth surfaces and a fun mash-up of graphic textures. The palette shows uniform blue, asphalt grey and caterpillar yellow.

HERITAGE LUX

Preservers of historic legacies treasure sensuousness alongside the uncanny, enlightenment together with darkness, for a whole new immersive experience. This new narrative translates to a love for luxury and splendour, decoration and embellishment. Finding beauty in history and nature through ornamental patterning and alluring surface enhancement. Reflecting on ancient history results in a palette featuring enigmatic blood red, sapphire and a lustrous mother-of-pearl.

MULTI-LOCAL

Hyper-locals go global, celebrating inclusivity over appropriation, honouring traditional craftsmanship and adjusting the world’s gaze to embrace exchange, creative integrity and diverse identities. Indigenous style meets global influences. This is a celebration of crafted and decorative pattern, from tribal and folkloric to geometric and abstract. Textile colours become part of a wider cultural narrative, linked to local community, cultural heritage and private identity.

You can find more Information here

With the announcement of the eligible vehicle models, the World Car Awards 2020 kickedoff today at the IAA Motor Show in Frankfurt, Germany. This year again, the majority of contenders is equipped with lightweight components for acoustic and thermal management from Autoneum. The world’s leading automobile industry awards will be presented at the New York Motor Show in the spring of 2020.

A total of 46 new vehicle models have passed the initial screening and are now contenders for trophies in the categories “World Car of the Year”, “World Luxury Car”, “World Performance Car”, “World Urban Car” and “World Car Design of the Year”, including five new fully-electric models alone. Whether it’s a lightweight underbody, a noise-absorbing carpet system or a heat-reducing engine encapsulation – most of the eligible vehicles benefit from Autoneum’s innovation leadership in thermal and acoustic management. Autoneum’s expertise extends to new forms of mobility such as electric vehicles: Also thanks to numerous Autoneum components, Jaguar’s fully-electric SUV “I-PACE” impressed the jurors for the World Car Awards 2019, which was the first model ever to be named “World Car of the Year”, “World Car Design of the Year” and “World Green Car” at the same time.

On the occasion of today’s eligibility announcement, Autoneum CEO Martin Hirzel said: “Once again, the contenders are testimony to our innovation leadership. The World Car Awards also confirm our forward-looking approach: Nominated e-models feature Autoneum components as well. Welcoming our industry’s transformation early on, we today supply environmentally sustainable, lightweight components for most electric models available worldwide.”

Gerry Malloy, President of the World Car Awards Association, added: “As a market leader, Autoneum is the ideal partner for us. Our shared commitment to innovation was a decisive factor in forming a partnership back in 2014. Nowadays, this is a crucial aspect for manufacturers and suppliers who wish to remain successful in times of industrial and technological change.”

The World Car Awards, which have been presented annually since 2004, are the world’s leading nd most widely recognized automotive industry awards. A jury comprising of more than 80 international automotive journalists selects winners in five categories. The winners of the 2020 World Car Awards will be announced in April next year at the New York Motor Show.

• Empowering fashion with responsible R&D, cutting edge finishing and a Made in Italy design imprint

Paris - “The soul of sustainable fashion is an alchemy, a combined commitment and an act of responsibility”. This is the motto ‘embossed’ in the collections and the values of Italian Converter. At Première Vision, the leading manufacturer celebrates its 25th anniversary and presents E.C.O. KOSMOS, a cross-collection, a brand-new ‘green line’ range’ and a winning formula shining a light on the company’s responsible path and unique ‘blend’ for the fashion of tomorrow.

The acronym E.C.O. stands for Ecologic, Conversion, Optimisation; three unique concepts and values that truly embody Italian Converter DNA: sustainability, transformative process and quality improvement.
For over 25 years, Italian Converter creates high-quality materials for some of the leading fashion and accessories brands. “Made in Italy and sustainability are part of our DNA.” Says Costantino Karazissis, founder of Italian Converter. “We believe that responsible sourcing and processes as well as a deep research into new technology pathways and a market-savvy taste for material design must be the starting point.”

At the core of the company’s responsible alchemy is also the constant research for the perfect balance of 100% Made in Italy materials. “We proudly collaborate with 120 skilled employees producing new hybrid material innovations daily, attracting partnerships from the best high-end brands both in Italy and abroad”.

Toupe and brick red E.C.O. Graffiti (100% linen) on E.C.O. Aurora (cotton and AMNI SOUL ECO®)

E.C.O. KOSMOS is entirely traceable, transparent, 100%made in Italy. The collection walks through a very complete and balanced range sustainable materials - from natural to eco high tech ones- that are transformed, enriched and valued in 9 high-tech cutting-edge innovations thanks to the Italian Converter expertise.
•    The natural line starts from bases of cotton bonded with AMNI SOUL ECO®, an enhanced polyamide 6.6 that degrades within 5 years instead of decades, as other conventional ones do.
•    The stretch innovations start from bases in GRS-certified Newlife™, a cutting-edge premium recycled polyester created using a High-Tech Conversion Model. Thanks to a mechanical process, used plastic bottles are turned into a top-quality polymer and yarn which is 100% traceable and 100% Made in Italy. The whole process takes place within a 100 square km area in Piedmont in Northern Italy.
 
All the references make use only of water-based resins and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified dying. The result, is resistant and transpiring solutions which come with bold and high-performing features, with a soft touch or even with a silky, yet strong, and enveloping feel. The designs range from rustic to contemporary and nod to jacquard, ‘authentic look’ and ‘drill’ hints. An ideal solution for footwear, apparel and leather goods.

Long story short? No compromises. E.C.O. Kosmos reflects design, innovation and responsible values, as well as 100% Italian Converter know-how.
 
“But this is just the beginning,” adds Karazissis. “The next step we are going to implement in the E.C.O. Kosmos cross-collection is a progressive integration of our triple-expertise, processes and R&D.” A sustainable step forward, a leap woven into a deep expertise a story to-be-continued. For a better future, this is for sure.

At CAMX Expo, Chomarat is showcasing its range of carbon reinforcements, including live demos: a rocket fairing mold, a kayak paddle and a flat panel will be on display in the demonstration area of Composites One, a partner of Chomarat. The Chomarat carbon range is also available in the USA through Composites One’s distribution network.

DEMONSTRATING THE UNIQUE PROPERTIES OF CHOMARAT’S REINFORCEMENTS
For the rocket fairing mold, the kayak paddle and the flat panel applications, Chomarat’s C-WeaveTM carbon reinforcement offers a unique and excellent visual appearance and structural performance at the same time. “In addition to C-WeaveTM, the kayak paddle comprises another reinforcement: G-flowTM, the 2-in-1 reinforcement for infusion to strengthen the vacuum-flow,” explains Travis Irvin, Sales Manager and Closed Mould Process Expert at Chomarat.

Other live demos of skateboards will demonstrate the potential for high-volume production with RovicoreTM, the famous glass sandwich reinforcement created by Chomarat. ”RovicoreTM is always at the forefront of technology for LRTM process,” he adds.

Moreover, Chomarat is displaying a motorcycle helmet with exposed carbon and a very light kayak paddle, highlighting the properties of C-WeaveTM. A tennis racket using C-PLYTM will also be displayed at the show.