From the Sector

• Organic Waste Systems and TÜV confirm fiber biodegradability also in fresh water
• All white LENZING™ Viscose, Modal and Lyocell fibers are now certified for all environments
• Global legislators aim at limiting plastic waste persisting in the environment for centuries
• EU Single-Use Plastics Directive partly regulates usage of plastic products
• Biodegradable materials such as wood-based fibers are the best alternative to single-use plastics

The Lenzing Group received confirmation of the full biodegradability of its fibers in fresh water by the independent research laboratory Organic Waste Systems (OWS). The new and existing international certifications conducted by OWS and issued by TÜV Austria verify that LENZING™ Viscose fibers, LENZING™ Modal fibers and LENZING™ Lyocell fibers are biodegradable in all natural and industrial environments: in the soil, compost as well as in fresh and in marine water.

The biodegradability of cellulosic products and the synthetic fiber polyester was tested in fresh water at OWS according to valid international standards, e.g. ISO 14851. At the end of the trial period, LENZING™ wood-based cellulosic fibers, cotton and paper pulp were shown to be fully biodegradable in fresh water in contrast to synthetic polyester fibers. The fact that synthetic materials are not biodegradable leads to major problems in wastewater treatment plants and potentially marine litter. In turn, this not only harms fish and birds living in and close to the oceans but also all marine organisms and us humans.

“The Lenzing Group operates a truly circular business model based on the renewable raw material wood to produce biodegradable fibers returning to nature after use. This complete cycle comprises the starting point of the core value of sustainability embedded in our company strategy sCore TEN and is the ‘raison d’etre’ of our company”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “In living up to this positioning, we not only enhance the business of our suppliers, customers and partners along the value chain but also improve the state of the entire textile and nonwovens industries.”

Both the textile and nonwovens industries face huge challenges with respect to littering. If current trends continue, the oceans could contain more plastic than fish by 2050. Therefore, legislative bodies worldwide can no longer ignore the issue and have moved towards plastics legislation aimed at limiting the vast amount of waste. In response, European lawmakers issued the Single-Use Plastics Directive currently being transposed into national legislation in the EU member states.

Conventional wet wipes and hygiene products mostly contain plastic and were thus identified as one of the product categories to be singled out. Less polluting alternatives are generally encouraged by NGOs and legislators, e.g. products made of biodegradable wood-based cellulosic fibers. Plastic waste including microplastic can persist in the environment for centuries. In contrast, biodegradable materials are the best alternative to single-use plastics because they fully convert back to nature by definition and thus do not require recycling.

• Continued positive development of specialties business with revenue share of already more than 48 percent
• Commitment to long-term growth plan – investment in new 100,000 tons plant in Thailand approved
• Significantly more challenging market environment for standard viscose with historically low prices
• Outlook for 2019 confirmed

The Lenzing Group continued its solid business development in the first half of 2019. Despite a significantly more challenging market environment with historically low prices for standard viscose, Lenzing recorded a slight increase in revenue. The disciplined implementation of the sCore TEN strategy and the focus on specialty fibers continue to have a positive impact. Thanks to ongoing high demand for sustainably produced specialty fibers and positive currency effects, the impact of low standard viscose prices was largely offset in earnings.

Sappi to present its innovative papers and packaging solutions at FachPack 2019

Environmentally friendly packaging is a hot topic worldwide. Sappi has been a pioneer in the field of innovative and sustainable packaging solutions for years. The company will present its latest innovations at Stand 9-260 at FachPack in Nuremberg. Alongside barrier papers, these include the heat-sealable Sappi Seal paper. This is notable for being completely recyclable and can replace existing PE-coated packaging. The recently launched Atelier paperboard will be another focus of the trade fair presentation. This offers brilliant colour reproduction and a silky touch and feel.

As the role of lingerie in fashion and athleisure continues to augment, the desire for garments that will meet a new set of values for contemporary consumer lifestyles will flourish.  

ROICA™ - the pioneer of innovative stretch fibres, took this year’s Interfilière visitors on an inspirational journey, aimed at encouraging weavers, designers and brands to “engineer” their portfolio of products in new and exciting ways. The company sets a whole new standard in how creativity and responsibility can come together for a new generation of wardrobe solutions dedicated to the contemporary consumer, carving out a new kind of fashion future.

Below some unique developments born from the collaboration among ROICA™ and key premium brands:

COSABELLA produced by Collezioni SRL: The brand sells in over 100 countries, with a premium collection of 2000 styles for every sector of lingerie and leisurewear. Latest styles use a delicate floral lace by Tessitura Colombo Antonio made with ROICA™ V550 belonging to the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family for their more luxurious upscaled lines.

Livy selects Iluna Group’s contemporary graphic stretch lace with ROICA™ EF for the precious “BELLAGIO” line that includes a soft triangle bralette, a padded bra, a brief and a body for optimal comfort. The must-have range has a stunning aesthetic which represents the unique appeal of this lifestyle brand.

Sarah Borghi: the worldwide known brand of luxury Italian fashion hosiery, tights, and socks. They've dedicated more than 40 years scrutinizing the finest yarns and evolving technologies and breathing flawless life into their unique range of luxurious fashion. Today, Gizeta Calze S.r.l., owner of this brand, has developed the first line made out of sustainable ingredients that will be launched at the ROICA™ booth during Interfilière. The collection, developed in Italy by Almatex, blends together key smart fibers such as ROICA™ EF and Q-Nova®, and ROICA™ V550 with  AMNI SOUL ECO®. 

Vitamin A: the Californian brand offers a unique swimwear line rooted in female empowerment. Vitamin A’s beachwear is made with the finest materials and finishes, ensuring a product that will fit and wear beautifully for years to come. Among the  incorporated more sustainable high-performance fabrics shines a unique jacquard development by Maglificio Ripa with a 3D texture made with the GRS certified premium responsible stretch ROICA™ EF and Q-NOVA® by Fulgar. Vitamin A is a member of 1% For The Planet and  donate to environmental organizations who work to protect our oceans.

Wolford was one of the first brands to explore the real value of ROICA™. Known for its exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, lingerie and bodywear, the company has been striving to develop fully degradable items at the end of the product lifecycle. On top of last year’s award for being Cradle to Cradle Certified™ at GOLD Level certification for the biological cycle, Wolford was also recognised for its technical cycle using Econyl® yarn made by Aquafil (always blended with ROICA™ V550).

Each brand Partner brings a different yarn story firmly into the limelight, and all feature ingredients from the ROICA™ portfolio of yarns respecting the company’s commitment to ‘responsible innovation’, and which all boast important sustainable certifications.

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Milano Unica fair with a range of innovations capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko – Tex®).

• Borealis’ EverMinds™ ambition moves industry one step closer to plastics circularity thanks to new recycling technology and improved recyclate
• Borealis also announces significant material improvements to existing Purpolen® recyclate materials

Borealis, a leading provider of innovative solutions in the fields of polyolefins, base chemicals and fertilizers, announces the introduction of a new plastics recycling technology, Borcycle™. This evolving technology will be used to produce high-quality compounds made of recycled polyolefins (rPO) such as the newly-launched Borcycle™ MF1981SY, an rPO with over 80% recycled content intended for use in visible appliance parts. Borealis also announces a series of significant material improvements to existing recyclates in the established Purpolen™ brand portfolio. These market launches and product improvements are important technology advancements and thus accelerate the transformation to a circular economy of plastics. Borealis and its wholly-owned subsidiary, mtm plastics, will showcase the new Borcycle technology and recyclate innovations at the K 2019 in October.

Borealis is leading the industry by applying its Visioneering Philosophy™ to the development and implementation of novel polyolefins-based solutions that enable plastics reuse, recycling, and recovery, and by designing for circularity. These wide-ranging activities are gathered under the symbolic roof of EverMinds™, the Borealis platform dedicated to promoting a more circular mind-set in the industry. By capitalising on its profound expertise in virgin polyolefins and collaborating with value chain partners, Borealis keeps discovering new opportunities for business growth within the circular economy.

Advancing technology to bring about polyolefin circularity

The new technology, Borcycle, transforms polyolefin-based waste streams into recyclate material such as pellets. As a transformative technology, it complements the existing Borealis virgin polyolefins portfolio with a range of pioneering, circular solutions. It unites state-of-the-art technology with the profound Borealis polymer expertise gained over decades.

As a scalable and modular technology, Borcycle has been developed to meet growing market demand for high-quality recyclate. Leading appliance brand owners, for one, have pledged to increase the amount of recycled plastics in their goods. Yet until recently, producers have not been able to rely on a consistent supply of high-quality recyclate. The Borcycle technology will help address this challenge. Compounds made using the Borcycle technology deliver high performance, add value and offer versatility. Producers and brand owners in a range of industries will profit from the availability of high-quality recyclate that helps them meet environmental and regulatory challenges.

“Advancing technology is crucial if our aim is to implement value-creating solutions in the circular sphere,” claims Maurits van Tol, Borealis Senior Vice President, Innovation, Technology & Circular Economy Solutions. “‘Building tomorrow together’ means innovating, collaborating, focussing on the customer, and above all – taking action. The launch of our new recycling technology Borcycle is tangible proof of our commitment to achieving plastics circularity.”

New and improved recyclate for high-end applications

Borcycle™ MF1981SY is the first of several upcoming launches of rPO solutions made under the umbrella of the Borcycle technology. Borcycle™ MF1981SY will be available to Borealis customers in Europe. The compound is an exciting addition to the rPO portfolio because it is a 10% talc-filled compound that contains over 80% recycled material. It offers an ideal balance between stiffness and impact. The compound is especially suited for use in visible black parts, for example in small appliances.

Like its relatives in the mtm plastics family of recyclate materials, Borcycle™ MF1981SY is a truly sustainable offering. Recyclates from mtm save approximately 30% of CO2 emissions compared to virgin materials.

A number of significant improvements have been made to existing recyclate grades in the Purpolen portfolio.

“Mechanical recycling is presently a most eco-efficient method to implement the principles of the circular economy,” explains Guenter Stephan, Head of Mechanical Recycling, Borealis Circular Economy Solutions. “Borealis and mtm plastics are leveraging their respective areas of expertise to make significant progress in achieving polyolefin circularity by upscaling recycling output and ensuring the reliable supply of high-quality plastics recyclate for European producers, in particular.”

A new generation of ecological PU coatings with water vapour permeability

Today, nearly all “breathable“ PU direct coatings are applied from solvent systems. These products partly contain very harmful and environmentally hazardous solvents.
To solve the “solvent“ problem, RUDOLF GROUP developed ECO-VENT®:

A water-based coating solution that opens up new perspectives for numerous coated fabrics, which are permeable to water vapour and, thus, breathable.
The optimum PFC-free, waterproof and breathable protective clothing can be finished with RUDOLF’s cluster of supreme technologies:

• Outer fabric finished with BIONIC-FINISH®ECO
• Direct coating made from ECO-VENT®
• Lining with moisture control due to hydrophilic HYDROCOOL®

• Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG is expanding the team at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) in Mönchengladbach, Germany, with the appointment of Jonas Beisel as a new textile technologist.

Having studied textile engineering in both Germany and China and taken an internship with Adidas before deciding he wanted to work in a more technical environment, 30-year-old Jonas will be transferring his theoretical knowledge into practice for customers at the ATC and at the plants of Monforts customers around the world.

“I’m really looking forward to meeting everyone at the forthcoming ITMA show in Barcelona as I familiarise myself with the fast-moving environment of the industry,” he said. “It’s good timing for me that ITMA,  which only takes place every four years, is happening now, so soon after my appointment.”

“The Monforts ATC has been extremely busy conducting customer trials and developing new processes recently, so it’s great to welcome Jonas to the technologists’ team,” added Monforts Vice President Klaus Heinrichs.

Assuming social responsibility and acting sustainably has been Autoneum's focus since it became an independent company. In order to achieve the best results possible, the Company last year has defined a number of quantitative and qualitative targets in the areas of “Sustainable Products and Production Processes”, “Fair and Attractive Workplace”, “Good Corporate Citizenship” and “Responsible Supply Chain Management” for 2025. In all these areas Autoneum has achieved important successes already in 2018.

Through the consistent implementation of environmental efficiency projects – a total of over 80 worldwide – Autoneum reduced its environmental impact further in 2018. For example, both the amount of waste (–5.9%) and water consumption (–13.4%) have fallen sharply. At the same time, various plants – particularly in Asia and North America – have expanded their recycling capacity, significantly increasing the amount of production waste reused in the manufacturing process (14.9%).

To further improve working conditions especially in production, measures were taken in all Business Groups in 2018 to enhance occupational health and safety and well-being in the workplace. A global employee satisfaction survey conducted in fall last year has confirmed the first positive effects of these measures.

A complete overview of all targets and activities during the past year can be found in the Corporate Responsibility Report 2018 and is available at www.autoneum.com/corporateresponsibility/.

wear2wear is an innovative industrial partnership dedicated to high-quality and sustainable clothing. Five expert partners in Europe have come together to cover the entire recycling loop. On cutting-edge production systems, textile fibres from used clothing will be turned into functional fabrics. Schoeller Textil AG is supplying a wholistic textile portfolio for the workwear area. At Schoeller Textil, the recyclable, functional fabrics from the wear2wear concept belong to the Inspire fabric group. These are high-quality protective workwear fabrics made of 100 percent polyester, which offer the greatest clothing comfort and often feel just like cotton. They are also compliant with the stringent requirements of the bluesign® system.

The sustainable wear2wear concept is synonymous with high-quality, responsible clothing. In European operations, textile fibres from used garments are used to produce new functional fabrics. Depending upon the area of intended use, they also meet strict waterproofing, breathability, protection and comfort requirements. To ensure that the raw material cycle comes full circle, these textiles can be recycled again when they reach the end of their service life. As a result, there is no waste, and they go on to produce new garments. As the wear-2-wear partner companies guarantee that – from the quality of the raw materials to the guaranteed recycling end process – these are 100 percent recyclable, functional fabrics made of recycled textile fibres. Water- and dirt-repelling technologies based on renewable raw materials, along with the most advanced membrane technology, will ensure that the textiles are manufactured and impregnated entirely without the use of PFC in the future too.

Five partner companies  
The five European partner companies in the wear2wear cooperation cover the entire recycling loop. Heinrich Glaeser Nachfolger GmbH is a German fibre and yarn producer and the “recycler” in the loop. Märkischen Faser GmbH (D) is the “upcycler” and fibre manufacturer. Carl Weiske GmbH & Co. KG (D) develops the polymers, fibres, yarns, chemical additives and textile systems, and TWD Fibres GmbH (D), a fully-integrated filament yarn producer, covers the entire range of polyester and polyamide 6.6 continuous filament yarns. Schoeller Textil AG, the innovative Swiss company, is responsible for textile production and manufactures sustainable high-tech fabrics with maximum clothing comfort. The matching climate-neutral and similarly 100 percent recyclable PTFE and PFC-free membrane, as well as recycled outer materials and linings, are supplied by Sympatex Technologies (D), the ecological alternative among the textile function specialists. DutchSpirit is a Dutch company which has been dedicated to environment-friendly clothing since 2010. Its mission is to significantly increase the awareness for sustainable clothing and offer recyclable clothing in the workwear segment. DutchSpirit is the initiator for the development of the Inspire products from Schoeller Textil and provided the inspiration for the wear2wear concept. Further garment-making partners who now also belong to the cooperative group include: Anchor Workwear BV (NL), Hüsler Berufskleider AG (CH), Groenendijk Bedrijfskleding BV (NL), Bedrijfskledingdiscounter BV (NL) and Rifka'S (NL).