From the Sector

At this year’s trade fair „SIMAC Tanning Tech“, PFAFF Industrial, together with DÜRKOPP ADLER and the regional agency DAP ITALIA, will present the latest solutions for shoe and leather processing. The fair will take place in Milan from 19th to 21st of February 2020. The joint booth is located in Hall 14, No. C09.

PFAFF News and Highlights:

PFAFF 3806
New integrated workplace for closing rub-down seams, such as heel-, front- and side seams on street shoes, slippers and leg boots. The PFAFF 3806 is equipped with two-thread chainstitch high-speed seamer head PFAFF 5487 with drop feed and variable top feed, high lift and adjustable top feed pressure, which ensures consistently high quality. Reinforcing tapes, which may be applied from top impart greater durability to the seams and prevent fine leathers from being pulled out of shape. Automatic control sequences (via parameter or photocell) reduce the manual handling and increase the process reliability and output.

PFAFF 1591
On the fair PFAFF INDUSTRIAL will show its electronic single-needle shoe post-bed machine with touch-control panel, new thread trimmer for short thread ends (< 5 mm) and new programmable thread tension. The key benefit of “programmable thread tension” is that suitable thread tensions can be applied for different material thicknesses and/or for different seam sequences (as these can be programmed on electronic machines). The tensions can be accessed and/or set via a knee switch or stitch counting. Manual setting of the thread tension, as is common with current shoe machines, is no longer necessary with the programmed thread tension.

PFAFF 8303i
The ot-air taping machine for welding continuous seams on water-resistant, waterproof and breathable materials will be exhibited as “shoe version” with very small/slim post from back. Effortlessly shoe uppers with small radii can be taped. The slim post and the differential feed (via two separate drive motors for the top and bottom feed roller) ensures absolute neat seams and a requested fullness und shaped parts.
 

Exhibit to showcase solutions answering sustainability demands in fashion supply chain
Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT),  announced that the company is exhibiting at the Pure Origin event, taking place February 9-11 at the Olympia London. Hosted in conjunction with Pure London, Pure Origin is billed as “the UK’s only fashion sourcing show to bring every element of the fashion supply chain together in one location.”

The Kornit exhibit (Stand PO-A4) will call on brands and manufacturers to produce fashion in the most sustainable manner possible, approaching the fashion market with a statement that clothing can be produced on demand, in a profitable manner, without compromising on environmental concerns.

With its unique single-step printing solution and proprietary water-based NeoPigment™ inks, Kornit Digital enables on-demand textile manufacturing in a sustainable way. Furthermore, these solutions provide retail-quality impressions that enable retailers to become e-tailers.

The Trevira CS joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 was once again a success.

Trevira looks back on a successful trade fair appearance at Heimtexil 2020. The concept of a joint booth together with customers along with the presentation of product innovations and a special exhibition dedicated to the contract sector has once again proved its worth. Trevira hosted 31 co-exhibitors thus increasing the number of participants again compared to last year. Members of the entire textile value chain were present at the Trevira stand: from the fibre production and yarn manufacture, to the colouring, weaving and warp and weft knitting stages, to the textile editor.

Klaus Holz, CEO Trevira GmbH: „We are pleased about the very positive feedback we got on our joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 from our customers and the visitors to our stand. It shows that our concept is successful and that the booth works well as a market place for Trevira CS.”

Product novelties were presented in an Innovation Park. Under the headline “Recycling at Trevira” the fibre producer presented its sustainable product range and diversified approaches to recycling: flame retardant fibres are produced from residual materials, which are reprocessed in an agglomeration plant. The recyclates are then deployed in the spinning facility to make new, high-quality products consisting of 100 % pre-consumer recycled material. Recycled, flame retardant filaments are produced from PET bottles and have a recycled content of 50 %. Standard polyester spun-dyed filament yarns are also available in a recycled version. Produced from PET bottles these yarns have a recycled content of 100 %.

In order to produce flame retardant fabrics which are also high-performing  in outdoor applications, Trevira now offers six more colours in addition to the existing colour range of 24 UV-stable, spun-dyed filament yarns. Trevira had been awarded the „Brandenburger Innovationspreis Kunststoffe und Chemie 2019“ for this innovation.

Cationic dyeable fibres and filament yarns enhance the Trevira portfolio of flame retardant specialties. They are used to create melange designs in fabrics, which still represents a strong trend in the home textile sector.

To meet the ever more complex demands of the market for more flexibility in design and additional functions as well as for sustainable products Trevira has introduced an enhanced Trevira CS branding concept, consisting of the three brands Trevira CS, Trevira CS flex und Trevira CS eco. Assigned according to product features, all of them stand for tested safety.

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

In the latest short film released on the Monforts YouTube Channel – captured at the recent Denim Première Vision show in London – some of the leading global manufacturers discuss their initiatives for more sustainable denim production.

Cone Denim, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, for example, can lay claim to having put in place its first environmental control measures back in the 1940s when the company first started recycling its water.

“It was a method of efficiency even back then, eighty years ago,” says Gabriel Magopat, of the company’s UK customer service centre, “but  producing high quality products is another method of being sustainable and of being efficient, and I think that’s what Cone stands for. We have an amazing history.”

Cone Denim is known for its signature S Gene® stretch denims which have traditionally incorporated polyester components to provide the stretch. It has now partnered with Intrinsic Advanced Materials of Gastonia, also in North Carolina, to introduce patent-pending CiCLO stretch polyester fibres into its denim collections. 

While still being synthetic based, CiCLO polyester is able to biodegrade in marine environments, wastewater treatment plants and landfill conditions, at rates similar to natural fibres like wool. 

This more sustainable solution for stretch is also being introduced to China for the first time by another leading denim supplier, Advance Denim.

“Advance Denim is spending its resources on being the most technologically advanced company in China, and also the most sustainable,” says Mark Ix, the company’s Director of Marketing. “We are investing heavily in our manufacturing to save both water and chemicals to create cleaner products.”

Monforts denim customer Berto is a family-owned company with its main denim mill in Bovolenta, a small rural town near to Padua in the north east of Italy, where respect for the environment has always been a must.

“The family has always been focused on respect for the environment,” says Berto’s Marketing Manager Francesca Palento. “In particular, we have a river next to the company from which we take our water for production and we then return it cleaner than it was before. We are also now producing GOTS and Global Recycling Standard jean produced with yarns made from our own internal waste production.”

Pakistan’s Soorty has recently received Cradle to Cradle Gold certification – the most stringent and exacting sustainable standard currently in existence – for its Pure D range of denims. These are produced using the company’s proprietary Zero Waste Water dyeing technology, in combination with the most advanced Monforts finishing machines. 

“Our very latest collection is called Climate Jeans, because every single product we now produce draws attention to the climate emergency we are living through right now,” says Eda Dikman, Soorty’s Marketing Communications Manager. “Sustainability is very important to us because we produce at scale and all of the actions we take reflect on the planet.”

The origins of both Industry 4.0 and an awareness of the need for more sustainable manufacturing methods can arguably be traced back to the year 1971.

It was in 1971 that the first microprocessor was introduced by Intel, and also that the first and perhaps now most well-known environmental campaigner, Greenpeace, was founded.

As such, a direct line can be charted from that year to today’s automated textile manufacturing machinery concepts, as well as the drive to develop more increasingly resource-efficient processes.

All of the recent innovations which have been introduced to the market by A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, for example, are being powered by the possibilities of Industry 4.0 and developed in response to the market demand for more sustainable production.

They include the new ‘digital twinning’ capability introduced in 2019 for all Monforts machines, with advanced sensor technologies which make it possible to access comprehensive technical machine data from any location using the company’s Smart Support and Smart Check apps. In addition, the digital twin system provides information on individual wear parts, such as, for example, converters or gears.

These latest developments have been very favourably received by Monforts customers, especially in Europe.

50th anniversary
The very first Heimtextil – the leading trade fair for the home textiles market – was also held in Frankfurt in January 1971 and Monforts customers Bierbaum Group and Konrad Hornschuch AG are amongst the German companies who were there from the very start and have attended every annual show since.

Bierbaum Group, based in Borken, is the company behind the well-known Irisette bedding brand and is celebrating its own 125th anniversary in 2020. It has also introduced products bearing the German government’s new Grüner Knopf textile seal of approval for sustainable production.

As a specialist in synthetic leathers for home surfaces, as well as vehicle interiors, Konrad Hornschuch AG, of Weissbach, has been a member of the €44 billion automotive giant Continental AG since 2016.

Representatives from both companies received memorial trophies at a special presentation held on January 7th during the 50th anniversary Heimtextil show.

The home textiles market remains very strong in Germany, with sales amounting to some €9.6 billion in 2019, according to analyst IFH Cologne.

Global growth
The first Heimtextil in 1971 was a significant success, attracting 679 exhibitors from 26 countries.

This year’s show, however, attracted a total of 2,952 exhibitors from 66 countries, reflecting not only the growth of the home textiles industry, but also the globalisation which has taken place over the last half century.

Monforts now has customers for its advanced finishing technologies around the world, with home textile customers from India and Pakistan being particularly well represented at Heimtextil 2020.

Among stand outs from Indian companies at this year’s show was the 2020 collection of Welspun India’s famous Christy England brand, inspired by botanical studies of the gardens of British stately homes. Welspun towels meanwhile benefit from the company’s HygroCotton hollow core yarn technology, produced by a proprietary spinning method which ensures they become softer, fluffier and more absorbent after every wash.

An equally ground-breaking new technology is being introduced by Trident Group, which is one of India’s largest vertically-integrated home textiles manufacturers and two years ago installed five complete Monforts finishing ranges for its new linen department.

Trident’s patented Air Rich yarns feature pores throughout their cross sections for high breathability and absorbency, as well as rapid drying.

Monforts home textile customers from Pakistan stressed the resource efficiency of their processes and products as a result of investments in advanced technology, and during the show the ‘Sustainable Pakistan’ initiative was announced.

Supported by GIZ, the German Society for International Cooperation, the initiative aims to reshape global perceptions of Pakistan’s manufacturers and their innovations. So far, twenty producers have been carefully chosen to be presented on this global platform and will help rebrand Pakistan’s textile industry at the Heimtextil exhibitions going forward.

Heimtextil’s organiser Messe Frankfurt also announced its own new alliance with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, in order to support the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.

Constancy
Many things have changed since 1971 and home interiors are certainly no longer predominantly orange and brown – and perhaps unlikely to ever become so again.

It’s clear, however, that there has been a constancy in the push to consistently improve textile technologies, processes and products that may have originated in Europe, but have subsequently spread around the world.

And the significance of both microprocessors and sustainability in 2020 could only have been guessed at back in 1971.

Iluna is bringing to the Parisian leading trade show for lingerie Interfilière its responsible offer and a unique Yoga capsule collection. The Yoga Capsule collection is characterized by the inclusion of responsible premium ingredients such as GRS certified Q-NOVA®, made for more than half by pre-consumption waste, and the GRS certified premium stretch yarn ROICA™ EF constructed out of more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content. Unique added value of the capsule is that it is enriched by natural based GOTS certified dyestuffs, a safe alternative to the chemical ones. A collection with a ten shades color offer strictly linked to the seasonality with high color fastness and durability respondent to the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification.

Tailor-made solutions for hygiene, medical, filtration and other technical applications as well as extensive product and process know-how – with these arguments Oerlikon Nonwoven made a convincing appearance at the 18th Shanghai International Nonwoven Exhibition (SINCE) that took place from December 11 to 13.

Dr. Ingo Mählmann, Head of Sales and Marketing of Oerlikon Nonwoven, was very pleased with the three lively days at the trade fair: "The many discussions showed that we are on the right track with our strategy and the further development of our technologies with regard to nonwovens. Visitors were impressed by our technology solutions for disposable nonwoven fabrics or geotextiles". Almost all wellknown nonwoven fabric producers visited the trade fair stand of the plant manufacturer from Neumünster to find out about the advantages of spunbond, meltblown and airlaid technologies.

Overall, the nonwoven fabric team of the Oerlikon Group draws a very positive conclusion and looks back with satisfaction on the intensive and good quality discussions as well as numerous concrete inquiries from customers and prospective customers.

The Bangladesh international player presents its unique eco-innovation path and a specialhigh-end capsule collection in collaboration with PG DENIM.

GENESIS:M&J Group comes back at the Denim Première Vison London (3-4 December) marking a positive end of the 2019, with new objectives for the future. The leading facility of the Group has affirmed itself as one of the most reliable international garment manufacturer, especially in denim market, and now it is time for another leap forward. The aim is to target more in depth the high fashion denim market in Europe with renowned proposals towards a more authentic, comfortable and sustainable denim offer.

The first output to underline the new approach is the high-end capsule collection realized in collaboration with PG DENIM, that premiered at the show
A collection where the great industrial experience and quality in garment manufacturing of GENESIS meets, in a perfect and inspiring contamination, the 100% Italian artisanal craft and unique interpretation of PG DENIM fabrics. A complete co-branding that has given life to unique garments with dedicated tags and hangtags, to show a fashionable, sustainable and high-quality final output, entirely produced in Bangladesh. The perfect meeting to provide a great example of how this collaborative path with European top-quality player could lead to a new positioning for the company.

The improvements achieved by GENESIS are enhanced also in the s/s 2021 collection with new trends involving eco-conscious fabrics such as organic cotton, recycled fabric and polymer, realizing blends with natural fibers like hemp & linen while working also with a wide variety of biodegradable materials. Technical fibers are also on the spotlight with an increasing importance gained by proofed lightweights such as waterproof. Moods like hyper blue, natural cotton colors, flat bright indigo mid shades or urban grey and reactive layers dominates the feeling of the new collection. In terms of looks and treatments the collection has developed several unique interpretations such as engineered garments, digital laser patterns, wester silhouettes, workwear, soft dyes, contemporary stripes, dirty green cast and eco-acid wash. A kaleidoscopic collection where technology and tradition meet one unique big trend: more sustainable than ever.

• Elleti Group takes center stage at Denim PV to present a special project realized in partnership with MYR, and to share a selection of iconic garments belonging to M.O.D.E, the company’s Museum of Denim.
• Collaboration will be the main theme of the two-day event, involving not only the leading company’s expertise in garment-making but also its tradition, starring M.O.D.E in its firstever collaboration with a trade show and in Alessio Berto’s  RE-TRACE workshops series.

London – When it comes to long-established traditions in the denim industry, Elleti Group stands out as one of the main key players: strong in the business since the 80’s, the company is highlyspecialized in laundry and garment-making services while covering the entire denim production cycle in its eleven production hub.

Its heritage and approach define a valuable and renowned legacy that is now taking stage at Denim PV on December 3rd and 4th. For the occasion, Elleti Group joined forces and knowledge with MYR, start-up program conceived to digitalize the creative process and connect users, suppliers and final consumers through a digital platform. Both companies will be in the Garments and Finishings area - booth C3,  howcasing an exclusive project to highlight their creativity and competences.

Starting from a selection of bold designs, entirely envisioned and developed with MYR software, Elleti Group worked to recreate their look and fit on six garments, manufacturing each piece according to its signature innovative and responsible approach. Featuring forefront machinery and cutting-edge processing solutions, this relies on a continuous research effort focused on granting high-quality products while increasingly reducing their knock-on effect on both workers and the environment.

The result turned out to be very impactful and inspiring, with denim solutions which proved the mastery of the leading Italian company in the art of washing, cutting and stitching the iconic blue fabric, as well as the great support that MYR software provided in the development of the collections.

M.O.D.E. x Denim PV: an exclusive exhibition to explore the history of denim

Opened on June 19th, M.O.D.E. – Museum of Denim Elleti Group – is a precious resource located within the company’s Headquarters in San Bonifacio (Italy). Here are 106 pieces dating between the second half of the XIX century and the 70s, resulting in an invaluable testimony of how denim evolved through the centuries. For the first-ever collaboration of the Museum with a trade show, a selection of 20 historical garments is exploring three research areas. These are meant to focus on:

• The brand identity of jeans through the main evolutions at Lee;
• The influence of WWII on the design, the creation and the wearing of clothing;
• The history of overall.