From the Sector

Hologenix® announces that its newest innovation has achieved two recognitions. In addition to being a Top Ten winner in the Fibers & Insulation Category of ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2023/24, pure white CELLIANT has been shortlisted in the Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2022 Awards. The company is sharing the spotlight with recognized brands such as H&M, Sweaty Betty and Timberland. According to Drapers, the leading authority on fashion retailing in the UK since 1887, which sponsors these awards annually, this year they received the most entries ever, making them very competitive.

To create pure white CELLIANT rPET fiber, Hologenix developed a strategic partnership with the Ireland-based Wellman International Limited, a fully owned subsidiary of Indorama Ventures. Indorama Ventures is investing $1.5 billion on sustainability initiatives, allowing them to recycle 50 billion PET bottles globally by 2025 to support the growth of the circular economy. Wellman International has been a pioneer of recycling technologies for almost 50 years, offering specialist solutions for the medical, hygiene, automotive, home care and apparel sectors.  

Pure white CELLIANT rPET fiber is sustainably manufactured, with a low-impact supply chain. It is achieved by embedding bioceramic materials, that are naturally derived and ethically sourced, into fibers, yarns and fabrics. Wellman International has converted 100% of pure white CELLIANT Polyester production into rPET. This conversion to rPET has been implemented across all CELLIANT product categories, replacing traditional polyester and dramatically enhancing CELLIANT’s sustainability initiatives.

Pure white CELLIANT is recognized as a Class 1 medical device in the European Union and is able to carry the CE mark. Like CELLIANT, pure white CELLIANT captures and converts body heat into infrared energy, powering bio-responsive textiles. This energy is reflected back to the body, resulting in increased local circulation and cellular oxygenation. These advantages have a variety of wellness benefits, including stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep, as well as many functional properties such as thermoregulation, quick-dry properties and odor inhibition.  

Wellman International distributes pure white CELLIANT fibers across Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Asia and the USA.

On 21 - 22 June 2022, the VIEW Premium Selection Autumn.Winter 23/24 welcomes the textile and fashion industry in Munich's MVG Museum.

The VIEW Premium Selection as a preview textile trade show stands for the latest developments, first colour and material trends and the presentation of a selected, high-quality product portfolio in a personal and professional atmosphere.

At the earliest possible date in the season, around 250 brand new collections for Autumn.Winter 23/24 will be presented at VIEW in the areas of FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, DESIGN STUDIOS as well as DENIM and SPORTSWEAR. The internationality of this year's exhibitors deserves mention since in addition to Germany, Italy and Turkey, they also come from France, England, Greece, Spain, Denmark, Hong Kong, China and Japan.

Bellandi, Dynamo, E. Miroglio, Lisa Spa, Manteco, Max Müller, Agentur Püttmann, Set and Tejidos Royo will be on site, along with numerous other manufacturers. The futuristic suppliers We Nordic, Knopf und Knopf, Le Studio Copenhagen, Thermore and Kipas are exhibiting at VIEW for the first time, making the show the basis of information and inspiration for the upcoming season.

The textile and fashion industry is also invited to the next MUNICH FABRIC START Autumn.Winter 23/24 from 30 August - 01 September 22 at the MOC Munich and to the BLUEZONE from 30 - 31 August 22 on the Zenith Areal. Valuable information, physical exchange and a spirit of innovation as well as a new SOURCING show-in-show concept await the global industry players in Munich.

• Order intake of CHF 2 225.7 million at record level
• Sales of CHF 969.2 million despite bottlenecks in the supply chains
• EBIT margin of 4.9% and net profit of 3.3% of sales
• Milestones achieved in strategy implementation
• Dividend of CHF 4.00 per share proposed
• Outlook

The 2021 financial year was characterized by a rapid market recovery. As market and technology leader, Rieter succeeded in this environment in posting a record order intake, significantly increased sales compared with the previous year despite the bottlenecks in the supply chains, and generated an EBIT margin of 4.9%. This success is based on the investments in innovation and competitiveness of Rieter in recent years. Crisis management in the 2020 pandemic year, which aimed at benefiting from the expected market recovery after the pandemic, was also a contributing factor. With the acquisition of three businesses from the Saurer Group, a further milestone in the implementation of the strategy has been achieved. The acquisition strengthens Rieter’s market position by completing the ring and compact-spinning system. With the laying of the foundation stone for the Rieter CAMPUS in September 2021, an important prerequisite for the expansion of the company’s technology leadership has been created.

Order Intake and Sales
At the end of 2021, the company had an order backlog of around CHF 1 840 million (December 31, 2020: around CHF 560 million). Rieter closed the 2021 financial year with sales of CHF 969.2 million, which corresponds to an increase of 69% compared to the previous year (2020: CHF 573.0 million).

EBIT, Net Profit and Free Cash Flow
The profit at the EBIT level in the 2021 financial year was CHF 47.6 million, which represents 4.9% of sales. At the net profit level, a profit of CHF 31.7 million accrued, which corresponds to 3.3% in relation to sales. Free cash flow at CHF 128.1 million is a result of the positive developments in earnings and net working capital. The acquisition of three businesses from the Saurer Group for a purchase price of CHF 321.4 million resulted in net debt of CHF 161.9 million; as of December 31, 2020, net liquidity amounted to CHF 41.3 million. At December 31, 2021, liquid funds amounted to CHF 249.4 million (2020: CHF 283.2 million). The equity ratio as of December 31, 2021, was 27.6% (previous year’s reporting date: 36.4%).

Sales by Region
Sales increased in all regions, with the exception of Africa. The highest growth of CHF 126.0 million compared to CHF 50.8 million in the previous year was achieved in India, followed by North and South America with CHF 149.9 million in 2021 compared to CHF 66.4 million in the previous period, and the Asian countries excluding China, India and Turkey with CHF 318.7 million (2020: CHF 184.8 million). In Turkey, Rieter increased sales to CHF 182.3 million (2020: CHF 122.0 million), in China to CHF 135.3 million (2020: CHF 92.8 million) and in Europe to 43.3 million (2020: CHF 38.4 million). In Africa, sales were below the prior-year level at CHF 13.7 million (2020: CHF 17.8 million).

Business Groups
Despite the well-known challenges in the supply chain, the Business Group Machines & Systems posted an order intake of CHF 1 708.6 million (2020: CHF 363.9 million) and achieved sales of CHF 590.3 million, double the previous year’s figure (2020: CHF 295.8 million). Ring and compact-spinning systems, on whose customer benefits Rieter has worked intensively in recent years, were particularly in demand.
The order intake of the Business Group Components was CHF 296.0 million, 75% above the previous year’s level (2020: CHF 169.1 million). Against the backdrop of successful strategy implementation and good capacity utilization at spinning mills worldwide, sales increased to CHF 231.5 million (2020: CHF 174.3 million). The Business Group After Sales recorded an order intake of CHF 221.1 million, 106% higher than the previous year (2020: CHF 107.2 million). Sales reached a level of CHF 147.4 million (2020: CHF 102.9 million). The positive evolution of the Business Group After Sales was also significantly influenced by successful strategy implementation and good capacity utilization at spinning mills around the world.

Acquisition of three Saurer businesses
Effective from December 1, 2021, Rieter is consolidating the components businesses acquired from Saurer. With the acquisition of Accotex (elastomer components for spinning machines) and Temco (bearing solutions for filament machines), Rieter is strengthening its market position in the components business. The acquisition of the third business from Saurer (automatic winder) completes and thus considerably increases the attractiveness of Rieter’s ring and compact-spinning system. This acquisition marks an important milestone in the implementation of the company’s strategy as an innovative systems supplier. The transaction is expected to be finalized in the first half of 2022.

Rieter CAMPUS
On September 8, 2021, at the Winterthur location, the foundation stone was laid for the Rieter CAMPUS, which includes a customer and technology center as well as an administration building. With the Rieter CAMPUS, the company is creating a state-of-the-art and creative working environment, ensuring access to cutting-edge European technology and enhancing its ability to attract young talent. Thus, the Rieter CAMPUS will make an important contribution to the implementation of the innovation strategy and to the enhancement of the company’s technology leadership position.

Dividend
In view of the profit of CHF 31.7 million at the net profit level in the 2021 financial year, the Board of Directors proposes to the shareholders for 2021 the distribution of a dividend of CHF 4.00 per share. This corresponds to a payout ratio of 57%.

Changes to the Group Executive Committee
With effect from March 1, 2021, the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG appointed Roger Albrecht as Head of the Business Group Machines & Systems and a member of the Group Executive Committee.

Board of Directors and Annual General Meeting
At the 130th Annual General Meeting held on April 15, 2021, the shareholders approved all motions proposed by the Board of Directors. The Chairman of the Board Bernhard Jucker and the Directors This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald, Peter Spuhler, Roger Baillod, Carl Illi and Luc Tack were confirmed for a further one-year term of office. Stefaan Haspeslagh was newly elected to the Board of Directors for a one-year term of office. This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald and Bernhard Jucker, the members of the Remuneration Committee who were standing for election, were also each re-elected for a one-year term of office.

Changes to the Board of Directors
The two members of the Board of Directors, Luc Tack and Stefaan Haspeslagh, resigned from Rieter’s Board of Directors with effect from August 30, 2021.

Outlook
Rieter anticipates a gradual normalization of the demand for new systems in the coming months. The company expects demand for wear and spare parts to remain at a good level due to high capacity utilization at spinning mills. For the full year 2022, due to the high order backlog and the consolidation of the businesses acquired from Saurer, Rieter anticipates sales of around CHF 1 500 million. Sales in the second half of 2022 are expected to be higher than in the first half of the year. The realization of sales from the order backlog continues to be associated with risks in relation to the well-known bottlenecks in the supply chains, the ongoing pandemic and the geopolitical uncertainties. Despite the price increases already implemented, the rise in global costs poses a risk to the development of profitability.

• The “new normal” by Südwolle: responsible, seasonless and high performance

The concept of seasonality in the F/W 2023/24 collection is increasingly vague, in favour of more functional categories in terms of performance, sustainability, innovative content and style.

Yarns are predominantly pure wool or blends, corresponding with the new concept of “dressing well” which is gaining ground among consumers – an individual style that promotes wellbeing at various times of the day, a fluid, personal idea of elegance, that fits daily activities with ease.

The new formal replaces the traditional suit with “smart casual” jackets and trousers -comfortable, and carefully cut, they feature quality materials that guarantee wearability as well as durability. Focus on these factors makes for more informed and less impulse buying.

The renewed interest in heritage is met with Südwolle's wool know-how and its basic essentials, updated to make them more sustainable by choosing certified fibres and chlorine-free anti-shrink treatments, for products with a longer lifespan thanks to domestic washing at low temperatures.

Sustainable innovation attentive to performance and durability goes hand in hand with the selection of earth-friendly recycled, recyclable and traceable materials blended with natural fibres.

Overview of the collection
The words inspiring the new collection are: sustainable, responsible, natural, recycled and high-performance.

A leading position goes to the OTW® line of weaving yarns made with Omega Twist® technology, developed and patented by Südwolle Group, which gives yarns enhanced performances in terms of reduced pilling, greater elasticity, strength and durability.

Espresso TEX Nm 48/2 (100% untreated wool,20.5μ) was created to value the authentic naturalness of wool. Made with undyed, untreated merino wool, it is a twisted yarn for weaving, ideal, for example, for flannel suits and jacket. It is available in 4 shades of brown obtained by mixing different percentages of untreated raw wool and undyed, naturally brown wool.
Eolo Nm 24/2 (100% wool 20.5 µ) is an example of circular production and reuse of recycled wool within the Karma project. Starting with in-house pre-and post-production waste, a partly carded, partly combed, product is created at Südwolle Group facilities where this type of process can be carried out.

Rhein GOTSNm 64/1 and Nm 64/2 (100% wool 19.5 µ) is the new pure woolyarn with GOTS –Global Organic Textile Standard certification, which certifies its organic provenance. The same traceable origin applies to Lerici GOTS X-COMPACT®Nm 60/1 (70% GOTS certified wool 19.5μ, 30% Schappe Mulberry silk), a glossy yarn with reduced pilling effect for improved anti-abrasion performance, obtained with X-COMPACT® spinning technology.

Performance paired with reduced energy consumption is the added value of SRP ClarkNm 60/2 (48% wool 23.5μ, 44% cationic polyester, 8% Donegal viscose), also available in a stretch version. The cationic polyester can be dyed blended with the wool, making double dying unnecessary and so saving on water and energy consumption. The addition of pre-dyed red, green or brown Donegal viscose to the blend creates a fluid look enhanced with slubbing and micro-nep effect.

Rosvic Nm 40/2 (98% wool 19.5μ, 2% Lycra®44 dtex) is a twisted yarn with Basolan treatment for comfort fabrics. It has a slightly textured surface with a contrasting or tone on tone micro mouliné pattern.

Key players among the circular knitting and hosiery yarns are Basak Nm 80/1(80% wool TEC. 20% polyamide 2.2 dtex), OTW® Barone GRS Nm 60/2(60% wool 23.5 µ TEC, 40% RENU™ recycled cationic polyester 2.2 dtex) and OTW®Concorde Nm 88/2(100% wool 19.3 µ TEC), available in the new colour cards.

The 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to presents its Fall/Winter 2022/23 collection developed in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub during Milan Fashion Week. With the support of WHITE, Duarte’s creations will be featured as a special project at WSM (WHITE Sustainable Milano) platform space inside “Unveiling the fashion Backstage”, a docu-event focusing on an immersive journey into the amazing world of premium and smart supply chains that make innovative and responsible fashion wardrobes a reality.

For its second collection Duarte still counts on C.L.A.S.S. support in sourcing materials and communication activities as part of the Icon Award yearly program. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte, with the help of the Milanese hub, is back with a renewed collection that counts 40 pieces continuing the concept and the story behind the previous World Keeper: the irresistible superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog – fighting against the environmental issues created by mankind and personified as Smog Man (air pollution), Fire Man (climate change), Deforestation Man (forests destruction) and Wave Man (water overconsumption).

This time the inspiration is also Street Dance drawn directly from the city streets, with majorly unisex pieces (apart from some small specific details linked to sizes or ergonomics) and materials that both respect the planet and keep you warm. The prints drawn from ripped posters giving birth to a sort of new style named “Eco-Street Dance”.

The collection presents a selection of urban pieces for everyday superheroes, fighting against environmental issues - with a holistic approach to sustainability values thanks to the synergy with C.L.A.S.S. and its Back in the Loop area: a section dedicated to alternative and sustainable sourcing against the massive amount of materials and textiles produced that are not used and discarded by the fashion system. This is mostly powered by MAEBA International - and its ReLiveTex® fabrics - leader in selecting and repurposing premium Italian fabrics with exceptional 60 years of expertise in collecting high-quality materials from leading brands and textile manufacturers, and one of the first companies at an international level to be accredited for the UNI EN ISO 14021 certification which grants the traceability of the collected materials.

The linings complete the full sustainable picture, thanks to Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabrics by Gianni Crespi Foderami. Bemberg™ is a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter pre-consumer material, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process.

Jamé’s concept.   
Jamé is inspired by the ancient Pay-Jamé: a piece of clothing that a woman or a man used to wear for fluid wellbeing 24/7 regardless of the activity, or the location, or duration time it is needed for. It’s a comfy refined outfit to make people feel free.

Jamè’s values.
Jamé is designed and made in Italy, digitally printed and created to deliver wellness, style, and 24/7 comfort.  
Jamé’s fabric of choice is Bemberg™, a textile that gives Jamé the highest contemporary qualities: Jamé garments are cool in summer, warm in winter, perfect all year round, fashionable, trendy and versatile. The ideal companion for everyday activities, Jamé is perfect for both indoors and outdoors, the perfect outfit for every occasion, day or night.

Environmental responsibility.
Every Jamé clothing is 100% recyclable and manufactured following a very contemporary and responsible made-to-order business model. The latest and greatest digital print technology assures us to avoid waste and over-production.
This means endless customization possibilities, creating a long lasting, high-quality product.

Styling.
Thanks to the expertise and knowledge of its founders Patrizia Marforio and Niccolò Zucchi Frua, Jamé’s vision is deeply rooted in the Italian design and textile tradition.
Jamé's historic archive - made up of more than 17.000 different textures from the 1920s to present day - seamlessly translating into the widest and deepest pattern choice in this one-of-a-kind collection.

Jamé’s fabric of choice:
Bemberg™ is the name of a technologically advanced fiber produced by Asahi Kasei. Bemberg™ is based on regenerated cellulose fiber made from the smart tech transformation of cotton linters.
As a pre-consumer material obtained from the manufacturing process of cotton seeds oil that is converted into fiber through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, Bemberg™ DNA is deeply based on a circular economy approach.
Bemberg™ is gentle on the skin, with amazing touch and exceptional moisture management properties: it quickly absorbs and releases moisture through very small waterways, keeping the wearer cool, fresh, and comfortable at any time of the year.

Albarrie – a major player in North America’s industrial nonwovens industry – is now benefiting from one of the first Monforts Montex stenter installations equipped with the full range of MonforClean heat recovery and exhaust air purification technologies.

With the new three-chamber Montex stenter at its plant in Barrie, Ontario, the Canadian company is treating specialised needlepunched nonwovens up to 4mm thick. These have applications in a wide range of filter media and performance fabrics.

The new Montex is enabling Albarrie to heat set and dry its materials to produce denser, higher quality fabrics which can also be finished and delivered to customers more rapidly.

Across timezones
It took a crew of skilled millwrights, electricians and product specialists to build the line which was delivered in 11 shipping containers to Albarrie’s production facility. The line was originally scheduled to be fully operational in the Spring of 2020, but the ongoing global Covid-19 pandemic inevitably led to several delays during the start-up and commissioning process.

Energy savings
The Albarrie Montex line’s MonforClean capabilities include an air-to-air cross flow heat exchanger and an electrostatic precipitator providing the ability to purify the exhaust air and to recover energy to a maximum of 22,500 cubic metres of air per hour, resulting in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply required. The MonforClean was developed in cooperation with partner KMA Umwelttechnik, based in Königswinter, Germany.

The fully automated system is powered by a Siemens SPS S7 controller and KP 700 touch panel from which the recycled energy can be continuously monitored and savings calculated.

The three-chamber Montex stenter is fitted with the latest Monforts Qualitex 800 PLC control system with WebUI, providing ease of operation, a full operating cost overview and maintenance monitoring.

• Rieter CAMPUS strengthens innovation strategy and technology leadership position
• Customer and technology center and administration building ready for occupancy in 2024
• Commitment to the Winterthur site and to Switzerland as a business location

On September 8, 2021, the foundation stone was laid for the Rieter CAMPUS on the western part of the Rieter site at the Winterthur location, which includes a customer and technology center as well as an administration building. The Rieter CAMPUS will make an important contribution to the implementation of the innovation strategy and to the enhancement of the company’s technology leadership position. At the same time, the investment of around CHF 80 million is a commitment to the Winterthur site and to Switzerland as a business location. 

With a floor area of over 30 000 m2, the Rieter CAMPUS offers space for around   700 ultra-modern workplaces. For this purpose, Rieter and a specialist in office architecture have developed a contemporary space concept for the “Open Space Office” that is tailored to the needs of the company, divided into meeting rooms, focus rooms and some individual offices. The underground car park provides   88 parking spaces, and a further 12 outdoor parking spaces are being created   in front of the technology center.  “In the course of its 225-year company history, Rieter has helped shape the city of Winterthur. The foundation for the future as a leading technology company is now being created with the new CAMPUS. In this way, Rieter is giving a clear indication   of its commitment to the Winterthur site and to Switzerland as a business location”, commented Bernhard Jucker, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG.

Innovation is an important part of Rieter’s strategy and crucial for the company’s success. For this reason, Rieter invests more than CHF 50 million annually in research and development. Thanks to this commitment, Rieter is making a   decisive contribution to the further development of systems for sustainable yarn production and their digitization. The Rieter CAMPUS will provide an attractive working environment that promotes creativity and innovation.  The new CAMPUS is a showcase project in terms of economic feasibility, energy efficiency and sustainability. Rieter relies on renewable energy for construction. This includes heat generation via geothermal probes and a photovoltaic system on around 1 300 m2 of roof area. “In this way, the entrepreneurial focus on sustainable and energy-efficient solutions for yarn production is reflected in the overall concept of the CAMPUS,” emphasized Rieter CEO Norbert Klapper.  The move into the new building is planned for 2024.

• Schlafhorst automatic winder as well as Accotex and Temco will be transferred from Saurer to Rieter
• Investment to complete Rieter’s ring- and compact spinning systems and in two attractive component businesses
• Closing expected during the month of August, implementation to be completed in six to nine months

On August 13, 2021, Rieter Holding Ltd., Winterthur/Switzerland, and Saurer Intelligent Technology Co. Ltd., Shanghai/China listed, signed an agreement by which Rieter will acquire three businesses from Saurer Netherlands Machinery Company B.V., Amsterdam/Netherlands, the parent company of Saurer Spinning Solutions GmbH & Co. KG, Uebach-Palenberg/Germany and Saurer Technologies GmbH & Co. KG, Krefeld/Germany.

With this acquisition, Rieter will complete the offering of ring- and compact spinning systems by acquiring the Schlafhorst automatic winder business. Additionally, Rieter invests in two attractive component businesses: Accotex (elastomer components for spinning machines) and Temco (bearing solutions for filament machines).

In total, the three businesses had a combined turnover of EUR 142 million in 2020, the year of the COVID crisis. In 2019 and 2018, the total combined turnover was at a level of EUR 235 million and EUR 260 million, respectively.

The purchase price for the three businesses is EUR 300 million on a cash and debt free basis. Rieter has financed the purchase price by cash and available credit lines.

Rieter and Saurer expect to close the transaction during the month of August. In the first step of the transaction, Rieter will acquire 57% of the shares of Saurer Netherlands. The shares will be returned to Saurer after the implementation of the transaction in six to nine months.

In connection with the transaction, it is envisaged that Rieter will supply automatic winders to Saurer in the future.

Mansfield Sand Limited’s sports sand and rootzones are reinforced with polypropylene straight fibres from Beaulieu Fibres International.

• PP straight fibres manufactured in Belgium by Beaulieu Fibres International
• Fibres distributed in the UK by James Robinson Fibres
• Product developed and manufactured by Mansfield Sand.
• The technology increases pitch stability and resilience even with frequent and intensive use.

Fibresand and Reinforced Rootzones are manufactured in the UK by Mansfield Sand, one of the the leading suppliers of the product. Fibresand and Reinforced Rootzones are a natural sports product reinforced with Beaulieu’s PP Straight Fibre, distributed in the UK by James Robinson Fibres. Used in the top 100mm within the pitch construction profile, it enhances the natural grass root structure while giving the pitches increased stability and resilience.

Many Premiership, EFL and Scottish clubs are choosing Fibresand and Fibre Reinforced Rootzone.

Beyond football, Mansfield Sand Fibresand products are being used in a variety of winter sports pitches, the equine market and are increasingly being specified for urban public green space and landscape projects to reinforce natural grass areas and maintain aesthetics even when suffering from heavy traffic burden.