From the Sector

KARL MAYER launches its RE 4-1, a new Raschel machine for the efficient production of highly elastic textiles. With this newcomer, KARL MAYER is expanding its Elastomeric series and supplementing the established RE 4-1 as part of its two-product line strategy. With the price-performance ratio, the machine fulfils the requirements of the volume business in particular.

A 170″ version of the machine has already been on sale in China for several months. The pre-release got off to a successful start. Encouraged by the feedback from the market, KARL MAYER has developed an RE 4-1 with a working width of 190″ and will be offering both models to its global customers from middle of July 2024.

The RE 4-1 can be ordered with E 28 and E 32 gauges. The 170" version is also available with E 36. The standard equipment includes KAMCOS® 2, batching device 18 E, Carbon fibre technology and N-pattern drive for controlling the guide bars: stitch-forming GB 1 to GB 3 and inlayGB 4. There are also optional features, including sensors for measuring the yarn tension, laser stop, batching device 34 A, LED lighting and an installation kit.

With its technical configuration, the RE4-1 is optimised for the production of elastic and non-elastic standard fabrics, especially for the underwear sector. One of the top products of the Raschel machine with its high productivity and short amortisation time is elastic Power net. This open-meshed, airy fabric has become an indispensable part of the lingerie and clothing sector. It is often used in the wings of bras as well as for inserts in sports leggings, shirts, jackets and swimwear, where it provides delicate control and comfort. Power net can also be found in semi-technical applications, for example as outer and inner pockets for rucksacks and clothing.
In addition to Power net, Raschel Locknit, Sleek net and Satin net are also part of the production repertoire of RE 4-1. The fabrics with a decreasing density from Raschel Locknit to Satin net also play a role in underwear and clothing production. For their production, filament yarn is threaded in the front two guide bars and elastane in the back ones.

Today more than ever, sustainability in the fashion sector is an imperative that is reshaping the dynamics of the sector. These are important changes driven both by increasing CSR regulations (for example, Business of Fashion revealed that, according to 87% of players, the new regulations will impact their company in 2024), and by consumers’ habits (increasingly sensitive to the topic and consequently more careful in purchasing choices). In this scenario, Lectra analyzed real-time data from Retviews – its artificial intelligence-based solution specialized in competitive intelligence and automatic benchmarking – and unveils how Retviews’ empowers brands to navigate the complexities of sustainable and optimized collection planning.

According to Retviews data, to face sustainability challenges and best orient in the current complex fashion landscape, it will be crucial for brands to keep 5 key indications in mind:

1. Planning sustainable collections
Faced with the new regulations, brands are called to rethink their strategies, without losing sight on performance. For this reason, brands are already moving to optimize and rationalize the creative processes of their collections with a view to sustainability. In particular, Retviews' real-time data analysis reveals a growing trend towards sustainability in the collections of leading brands, where there are important investments in sustainable fabrics for both upper and lower garments. In particular, in the "Top" section, shirts show the most significant growth year over year among the eco-responsible options.

2. Sustainable prices (in every sense)
In this context, the redefinition of prices requires a strategic balance between market dynamics and the consumer's willingness to pay for products redesigned in terms of CSR. Retviews data shows a significant increase in costs in sustainable top collections. However, has this shift affected stock levels?

3. Inventories: optimized management
Tracking stock levels is crucial to season management, as it helps identify best-selling items and trends, as well as identify which items would sell better at full price versus those that should be discounted.
The new premium prices for sustainable collections require optimization of the sales rate, a waste limitation to minimum and a reduction of unsold goods rate.
Analyzing the tops category - In the tops category, where sustainably made products prevail with significantly higher price points than generic tops, Retviews' real-time data reveals that sustainable collections boast a higher sell-out rate compared to non-sustainable products. This superior sell-out rate underscores consumers' willingness to pay a premium for sustainability

4. Traceability and certification of collections
Certification is essential in verifying sustainability claims, fosters trust and ensures compliance. Not only that, it is also important to understand the value of the certifications and which ones appear most frequently in the various markets so as to make targeted decisions and adapt the assortments accordingly. This also let brands to prioritize the right mix of fabrics that can reflect the desires of local consumers. Retviews data highlights a particular focus on “Recycled Claim Standard” (RCS) certification in Europe and on “Fair Trade” and “Good Cashmere Standard” certified garments in the United States.

5. Mix of sustainable fabrics
About environmental impact, fabrics also play a fundamental role. Through data-driven tools, brands are able to find valuable information on sustainable materials that are gaining tractions in collections and thus make informed and strategic decisions in the process of planning their creations.

Archromais introducing an innovative portable version of its Color Atlas by Archroma® color catalogue to help streamline textile and fashion industry workflows with convenient color comparison.

The Color Atlas by Archroma®, Mini Flex and Mini Palette editions are available as libraries of textile color swatches that set a new standard for efficient color selection and comparison while on the go, in the office, factory or in a work-from-home setting.

Color comparison is a fundamental part of the work of designers and their textile mill and brand partners. However, achieving the perfect color match or color harmony without convenient access to color library reference books has long been a challenge. Physical color libraries can be bulky and heavy with even compact editions of physical libraries are too big to fit into a backpack or shoulder bag. The new Color Atlas by Archroma® formats give designers a visual companion tool for digital color libraries may not be accurate due to the limitations of the user’s smartphone or tablet display.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® Mini Flex and Mini Palette editions overcome these challenges. Both formats are user friendly and travel-ready, with no mask required to isolate colors for selection and comparison.

• The Mini Flex edition features textile color chips that allow users to quickly find and compare colors with their desired target color.
• In the Mini Palette edition, individual color chips are inserted into slots in plastic palette sheets for ease of use and portability. Users can carry the pre-made palette sheet swatches or customize a palette sheet using chips from several swatches.

Both Color Atlas by Archroma® Mini Flex and Mini Palette formats contain 5,760 colors: 4,320 cotton colors and 1,440 polyester colors. Each of the colors are also available from Archroma as Engineered Color Standards that include achievability information on alternate fiber types, precise dyeing recipes formulated with products that comply with leading international eco-standards, digital data for recipe predictions, dye eco compliance information and access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

Circ^®, a US-based textile-to-textile recycling innovator, announced the launch of Circ^®-Ready, an exclusive community of global supply-chain partners who have demonstrated their ability to make high-quality, better-for-the-planet solutions for fashion brands using Circ materials. The inaugural Circ-Ready partners include AGI Denim, Foshan Chicley Textile Co., Ltd., Giotex, Marubeni Corporation, MAS Holdings, PYRATEX®, Selenis, SHINJINTEX, Soorty Denimkind, Tainan Spinning Co., Ltd., and Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI).

The Circ-Ready community is a selected group of partners who have a proven positive track record and commitment to working with Circ recycled products and have been individually evaluated for industry success. Circ-Ready partners work alongside the Circ team of experts to adequately test and utilize Circ fibers, exceeding quality standards from end to end. To promote transparency and ensure the integrity of Circ products, each Circ-Ready partner provides a commitment to relevant best-in-class certifications for recycled products.

Consisting of processors, manufacturers, and other vital industry players across tiers 1-4, each Circ-Ready partner has undergone a testing process to replace virgin inputs with Circ’s products, proving the ability to utilize Circ products in their existing operations and produce premium materials as a result. Being a member of the Circ-Ready community provides partners the opportunity to work with pilot-stage Circ products, receive ongoing support from Circ’s technical experts, and be among the first recommended by Circ when brands and partners seek to utilize Circ material.

Circ is a leader in blended textile-to-textile recycling, a known challenge for the industry. Each year, tens of millions of tons of polycotton textile waste is landfilled or burned because existing recycling solutions cannot separate the plastic from the natural fiber and recover both materials. Circ’s innovative recycling technology is the only platform to successfully separate polycotton blended textile waste and recover both cellulosic and synthetic fibers. Circ’s primary fiber outputs are regenerated Circ Lyocell and Circ Polyester from textile waste.

Archroma has won awards in two categories at the Just Style 2024 Excellence Awards. It took home two coveted Innovation Excellence awards for its SUPER SYSTEMS+ solutions and AVICUERO® leather tanning process, as well as a Social Excellence award for its longstanding and holistic commitment to community engagement in Baroda, India.

The awards recognize how Archroma is driving change with innovations that advance sustainability and through initiatives that contribute to the socio-economic progress of communities near to its Baroda manufacturing plant.

Innovation Awards
Archroma was recognized for advancing sustainable manufacturing in two Just Style Excellence Awards for Innovation.

SUPER SYSTEMS+ is a comprehensive suite of solutions that addresses the textile industry's key challenges, including water consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, circularity, chemical management and compliance.

By providing end-to-end, fiber-specific solutions that enhance process efficiency and offer intelligent effects, SUPER SYSTEMS+ enables mills and brands to meet their sustainability targets as well as consumer demand for durable products with enhanced functionality and sustainability. With end-to-end solutions from pre-treatment to finishing, SUPER SYSTEMS+ can be deployed without additional investment. With future compliance in mind, the solutions also go beyond current regulations and industry standards to anticipate upcoming restrictions.

Archroma’s AVICUERO® is a system for sustainable leather tanning and dyeing. Developed in collaboration with UK-based leather technology expert Dr Leather, it is both chrome- and metal-free and yet maintains the quality and performance of traditional tanning methods. Tanners enjoy shorter processing times, eliminate the pickling process and reduce salt usage, leading to lower pollution effluent discharge loads. In addition, AVICUERO® can offer energy savings of up to 25% and CO₂ emissions reductions of up to 23% compared to traditional chrome tanning.

Social Award for Community Engagement
Archroma has also been recognized for the positive impact it is having on communities in the vicinity of Baroda through multifaceted initiatives that span early childhood development, student scholarships, agricultural education and the empowerment of women.

Archroma recently set up an Anganwadi Centre to provide a range of services in the community, including nutrition and health education and pre-school learning. It also runs a scholarship program for students in vocational training, helping to create a skilled talent pool for the region. Archroma is also collaborating with a local NGO to empower farmers with modern agricultural methods and insights.

The building of a Household Biogas Plant in Umraya village is another example of Archroma's sustainable initiatives. The conversion of manure into clean renewable energy by the plant tackles several issues, such as reducing greenhouse gas emissions and enhancing soil health. It also liberates rural women from the burden of sourcing conventional fuel sources and the health risks associated with burning dung cakes for fuel.

KARL MAYER Technische Textilien launches the new MAX GLASS ECO, a composite machine with a focus on standard non-crimp fabrics made of glass fibers.

The MAX GLASS ECO incorporates proven solutions from the KARL MAYER GROUP's range of multiaxial machines, including features from its predecessor, the MAXTRONIC®, and combines these with sophisticated new technical developments. The result is a production machine for the economical manufacture of standard glass fiber articles, especially non-crimp fabrics for the wind power industry.

The multiaxial warp knitting machine is extremely efficient, affordable and, unlike the previous MAXTRONIC®, sufficiently flexible thanks to various optional functions. At a rotational speed of up to 1,800 min^-1, a maximum output of 410 m/h is achieved.

The MAX GLASS ECO is available with a working width of 101″ and is suitable for laying angles of +/-45°. A complementary layering system ensures a uniform take-up speed and therefore gentle processing of the fiber material. This sophisticated weft tension compensation device is one of a whole series of tried and tested features of KARL MAYER multiaxial technology that have been integrated into the new machine. Other adopted solutions include the Fiber Chopping Unit, which allows glass fiber chips to be introduced into the laying process and thus cover more fields of application, and a single pin transport chain for a processing method with less waste.

Newly developed innovations also ensure even better performance, including the fixed layer system, which ensures high placement precision at all laying angles. Other equipment details with added value for the customer include a conveyor belt across the full working width, the walking needle system, which prevents the formation of lanes even with long stitch lengths, and the fitting of single compound needles, which can be changed efficiently.

Mayer & Cie. presented an overview of its current portfolio in the circular knitting sector at the ITM in Istanbul. Two machine types – the SF4 3.2 III and the Relanit 3.2 HS II – and various smart solutions that make circular knitting more efficient were on display. knithawk, a tool for the optical detection of knitting defects, met with interest among the visitors. The same was true for knitlink, Mayer & Cie's hub for digital solutions. Spare parts packages and conversion kits are also in demand for the long-term value retention of Mayer & Cie. machines.

Relanit 3.2 HS II
The Relanit 3.2 HS mechanical single jersey machine offers high productivity, especially in the context of elastic plating. It processes a wide range of yarns and qualities reliably. It is suitable for processing recycled yarns. Their energy consumption is up to a third lower than that of a circular knitting machine with conventional technology.

In Istanbul, Mayer & Cie. presented an updated version of its flagship, the Relanit 3.2 HS II. The new open-width take down is the single component that attracted the most interest. It ensures a uniform pull-off tension of the knitted fabric over its entire circumference. The knitted hose is only opened below the take-down rollers. Furthermore, the take-dwon is equipped with two drives: one for tensioning, one for rewinding. Both can be controlled separately.

Another innovation of the Relanit 3.2 HS is aimed at reducing downtimes: The needle with predetermined breaking point, which was developed together with Groz-Beckert, prevents it from breaking uncontrollably and, in the worst case, breaking needle butt. The new spring sinker is also a joint development with Groz-Beckert. This makes the Relanit 3.2 HS II run more smoothly, produce less noise as well as with less wear and tear.

SF4-3.2 III for lightweight three-tread fleece knitted fabrics
With its SF4-3.2 III, Mayer & Cie. is addressing a trend in the clothing industry that is reflected beyond Turkey: lightweight, elastic three-thread knitted fabrics in both pure cotton and blends.

New Control 5.0 machine control system
Both ITM machine exhibits were on display with the new Control 5.0 machine control system. Control 5.0 is a prerequisite for using knitlink, the hub for Mayer & Cie's digital applications. In this function, the machine control system attracted interest from various large customers.

In the standard SmartControl version, as shown in Istanbul, a so-called Smart Knob is attached to each machine foot. From there, all the functions that the machine operator needs for his work are available. More in-depth settings, such as those made by the knitting manager, are only possible from a mobile device. Any number of Mayer & Cie. machines can be operated from this at the same time.

knithawk
knithawk, a tool for optical defect detection, inspects the knitted fabric as it is produced. It sits in the single jersey machine directly at the knitting point. If knithawk detects a serious or recurring error, the machine is stopped. The tool also creates an error log.

Machine-specific upgrade and conversion kits
With its upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. brings technological innovations to existing machines. These range from machine-specific upgrades, such as the Performance Kit for existing Relanit 3.2 models to the Senso Blue RS lubrication system.

In addition to the upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. offers conversion kits for popular machine types. Two are currently available: for the MV4 3.2 II/MBF 3.2 and the S4-3.2 II/ SF4-3.2 III.

Stratasys Ltd. is announcing updates to several Industrial and Healthcare Business Unit products and Stratasys Direct. These include a new open platform for the F900™ 3D printer, more on-demand 3D printing capabilities and a new high-performance material for its Fused Deposition Modeling line.

OpenAM comes to the F900
Stratasys OpenAM™ is a software application that enables the user to modify machine controls to achieve results beyond standard print settings. Already available for the Fortus 450®mc printer, Stratasys is now making its OpenAM software available for the F900 printer. This will allow for expanded functionality and capabilities and will unlock new materials for F900 users.

New VICTREX AM 200 material for FDM
A new material offering that opens the application potential for demanding industries like aerospace and medical, where material properties are critical components of a 3D-printed solutions. This new high-performance, high-strength, validated material, VICTREX AM™ 200, will be available for the Fortus 450mc and the F900. VICTREX AM 200 is a PEEK-based polymer that is temperature, corrosion, and chemical resistant, with excellent mechanical properties which can be utilized with soluble and breakaway support material.

Carbon Fiber Visual Print Option for the F-Series
Carbon Fiber Visual Print Option is a new 5-slice (0.005”) layer height across the F-123 Series™ line of printers that is coming later this month for FDM®ABS-CF10. It produces a smoother surface finish, to provide the perfect finish when a part’s visual appearance is important to the application. It is built for applications that demand the durability of a carbon-filled polymer, but also requires a visually appealing result without additional post-processing.

F770 adds New Colors
The F770® printer can now print in multiple colors, in addition to its original single ivory color. Six new ASA colors, including red, white, light gray, black, blue, and yellow, will allow for more application versatility with FDM® ASA and ABS-M30 tried-and-true engineering plastics. The new colors enable printing without painting or other post-production marking, allowing parts to be available much faster, increasing productivity.

Somos NeXt Validated for SLA
Somos® NeXt™ is now a validated material for Stratasys NEO® stereolithography 3D printers. Somos NeXt is a resin with superior strength and can be used in automotive and consumer products, along with other applications, including prototyping, to produce durable, accurate and detailed parts.

New GrabCAD Software Print Integration Enhances On-Demand 3D Printing Capabilities
Stratasys has introduced Parts on Demand by GrabCAD, a new integration that synchronizes the company's software platform with Stratasys Direct. This addition allows GrabCAD Print™ customers to access Stratasys Direct’s fleet of 3D printers, allowing for larger and more intricate designs, a selection of more than 50 engineered materials, and the assurance of stringent quality inspections.

Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 is one of the most important Italian companies in the textile finishing sector. Founded in 1973 in Masserano in the textile district of Biella, the company offers the complete range of dyeing of all types of fibres, finishing, digital printing, lamination and membrane lining. These processes are used to give fabrics certain properties, such as colour, pattern, softness, shine or waterproofness.

At Tintoria Finissaggio 2000, customers benefit from the fact that all processes are handled under one roof, from design support to the finishing of fabrics, combining decades of experience with the new possibilities of lamination and digital printing. The dyeing plant in Masserano is a state-of-the-art facility that fulfils the strictest environmental standards. In general, Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 continuously invests in state-of-the-art technologies and production facilities in order to achieve high-quality results while ensuring sustainable production processes.

Tintoria Finissagio 2000 also focused on innovation when equipping a new stenter frame. The company opted for the latest development from German machine manufacturer Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG: the Orthopac RXVMC-20 automatic straightening system. The new straightening concept is specially designed for processing textiles with high distortion dynamics, i.e. textiles with highly variable distortion. Two individually controlled and driven straightening modules with a total of three bow and four skew rollers ensure that bow and skew distortions are corrected in small steps. The control concept is also new. A scanner group at the infeed of the straightener detects distortions even before they reach the correction rollers. This means that the rollers are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimetre. A scanner group at the outfeed also recognises any residual distortion, which is then corrected on the second straightening module.

The Zebun Nessa Mosque, recently completed in Ashulia, Dhaka, is a shining example of the progressive initiatives being undertaken by the Bangladeshi garment industry. Fashion Forum Ltd., a company of IDS Group, spearheaded this project, demonstrating a strong commitment to enhancing the welfare and environment for its workers.

Bangladesh, renowned as the second-largest exporter of ready-made garments globally, is setting new benchmarks in workplace safety, worker welfare, and environmental sustainability. Mr. Idris Shakur, managing director of IDS Group, epitomizes the industry’s progressive outlook. He has dedicated the mosque to the workers of Fashion Forum Limited, naming it in honour of his late mother. The gesture is designed to foster compassion and unity within the industrial community.

The mosque, designed by Studio Morphogenesis and completed in 2023, reflects a forward-thinking architectural philosophy. Sustainability was a core consideration, with the design incorporating recycled red bricks from demolished houses for the exterior walls. Pink concrete, weatherproofed with lime plaster mixed with red brick powder, blends tradition with modernity, creating a spiritual and communal haven for the workers.

A key feature of the mosque is its majestic arched opening facing the qibla, offering worshippers a serene view of the adjacent waterbody and enhancing their connection with nature. The structure's double-layered walls provide thermal comfort and facilitate natural light and ventilation, transforming the mosque into a "breathing pavilion." Enclosed gardens, reminiscent of light courts, provide a peaceful retreat from the bustling industrial environment.

Inside, an intricate perforated metal stairway leads to a crescent-shaped upper floor, dedicated exclusively to the female workers. This space serves as a serene meeting area and prayer room, empowering women and reinforcing their importance within the workforce.

The Zebun Nessa Mosque also showcases advanced construction technology, designed to withstand extreme weather conditions, further underscoring the innovative and resilient spirit of Bangladeshi garment manufacturers.

This mosque stands as a testament to the progressive and compassionate ethos driving Bangladesh’s garment industry. It highlights how manufacturers are not only focusing on economic growth but also prioritising the well-being and empowerment of workers, setting new standards for the industry worldwide.