From the Sector

At the Techtextil trade fair in Frankfurt, the Chairman of the Walter Reiners Foundation of the VDMA, Peter D. Dornier, presented awards to six successful young engineers. Promotion and sustainability prizes were awarded in the categories bachelor/project theses and diploma/master theses. Academic theses in which, for example, solutions for resource-saving products and technologies are developed are eligible for the sustainability prizes.

The Walter Reiners Foundation awarded Anna Markic a sustainability prize worth 3,000 euros in the Bachelor's category. The topic of her thesis, written at Reutlingen University, was the recycling of carbon fibres.

Mark Zenzinger, Albstadt-Sigmaringen University, received a 3,000 euro promotion award in the Bachelor's category. His topic was the automation of the process chain for the production of welded textile hard goods.
 
Lena Fink from the TU Dresden received another promotion award worth 3,000 euros. Her construction engineering project work focused on a device to simplify the maintenance of braiding machines.

Fabio Bussmann from RWTH Aachen was awarded a promotion prize in the Master's category, worth 3,500 euros. In his thesis, he analysed the life cycle assessments of alternative semi-finished products for geotextiles.

Katharina Maria Ernst, TU Dresden, was honoured with a sustainability prize of 3,500 euros in the Master's category. Her work focused on the development of a suitable process for the treatment of chitosan fibres as an alternative starting product in the production of carbon fibres.

Lennart Hellwig, RWTH Aachen University, was awarded a 3,500 euro prize in the Master's category. He focused on the topic of machine learning using the example of a nonwovens plant.

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris opens its doors from 1 to 3 July at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. More than a thousand exhibitors from the world's major sourcing countries will be offering inspirational sources for building collections for 2025-2026. This season's show will focus on suppliers of innovative products and solutions for high-performance and sustainable fashion.

Yarn in the spotlight
Taking us further upstream in the industry and for the first time at the Parisian trade shows, a pavilion featuring yarn producers will be found at the exhibition. Co-organised with Yarn Expo, a Shanghai show in the Messe Frankfurt galaxy, this dedicated pavilion will feature companies from China, India, Pakistan and Taiwan.

A Leather trends area at Leatherworld, partnerships at Avantex
As in previous summers, this season’s show will bring together all the different aspects of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris. Leatherworld, the platform dedicated to leather sourcing, is announcing the return of a South African pavilion. This area will also host a Leather Trends area created and run by Italian publisher Edizioni AF, a specialist in the leather industry. Particular attention will be paid to the design processes and choice of materials used by Italian accessories and footwear manufacturers.

A number of new features are also expected in the Avantex innovations area: Partnerships with the IFA Paris fashion design school, the TCBL association and the TUV Rheinland certification body, which will showcase  solutions in sustainable fashion and textiles, and provide an opportunity to discuss these issues at expert round tables.

Furthermore, the fair will be showcasing Texpertise Econogy, the sustainable economy approach developed by the international Messe Frankfurt group to guide visitors in their sourcing choices. Following its launch in February, the upcoming event will continue to promote sustainability with a number of features and provide a platform for green pioneers.

Companies, designers, architects and agencies worldwide are now invited to submit their products and projects for the German Design Awards 2025. The German Design Awards by the German Design Council honours projects that are pioneering in the German and international design landscape and highlights positive developments in circular design. The award not only makes success visible, but also opens up a network, international reach and additional market opportunities for the award winners. Application deadline is 6 September 2024.
 
Whether digitalisation, AI or circular design - the German Design Award platform reveals the contribution that design can make to the sustainable transformation of the economy. Now more than ever, outstanding design can provide answers to the challenges of our time, focussing on the impact of products and services on the planet and our society - through multi-perspective approaches, sustainable and circular design processes or resource- and environmentally friendly production. The German Design Award has set itself the goal of promoting the diverse transformation tasks of our time through design and providing orientation for others through outstanding examples.

Focus on circular design
Starting this year, companies and designers can submit their projects in an additional category called "Circular Design". This category recognises particularly innovative solutions that implement the current objectives of the circular economy and provide inspiring impulses.

The  international jury of the German Design Awards honours these pioneering design achievements in three main categories: "Excellent Product Design", "Excellent Communications Design" and "Excellent Architecture".

New category
To visualise pioneering developments in architecture through the influence of artificial intelligence and digital design methods, designers and developers can submit projects, service designs and virtual architectures in the "AI in Architecture and Metaverse Space Design" category from this year onwards.

Access to the American market
The German Design Council has entered into an exclusive TV partnership with CBS/Paramount's new US documentary series Europe ByDesign, offering German Design Award winners far-reaching opportunities to position themselves on the US market. You can present your work in the next season of Europe ByDesign, which will be broadcasted in prime time on CBS in the USA as well as streamed worldwide.
 
Important dates at a glance

• Call for entries: 23 April 2024
• Register at the Early Bird price: until 21 June 2024
• Deadline for grant applications: 30 August 2024
• Registration deadline: 6 September 2024
• Jury meeting: 26 and 27 September 2024
• Awards Show: Beginning of February 2025

Archroma and Cotton Incorporated, a research and promotion company for cotton, have renewed their eight-year collaboration to help accelerate the shift to more sustainable circular economy.

The two organizations began working together in 2016 when Cotton Incorporated approached Archroma with the goal of developing a dyestuff from the byproducts of cotton production.

The U.S., the world’s third-largest cotton producer and largest exporter, produces sustainable cotton fiber for the textile and apparel industry as well as cottonseed for food and animal feed. Cotton farming and processing also generate byproducts, such as burs, stems and leaves, that are used to create insulation, packaging, erosion control products, and more. Cotton Incorporated recognized the potential to use these natural byproducts to produce dyes.

Drawing on a century-long heritage of sulfur dye innovation, the Archroma research team was able to apply its patented EarthColors® technology to create DIRESUL® Earth-Cotton using cotton by products from the U.S. supply chain. An alternative to the usual oil-based dyes, Earth-Cotton allows brands to offer textile products in warm natural shades, using cotton to create both fabric and dye.

Devan Chemicals launched its latest textile finishing technology “Devan Stain Release”, that ensures that both water and oil based stains can easily be washed off.

Devan ‘s new release finish prevents water and oil based stains such as ketchup, mud, grass, tea, vegetable and corn oils from adhering deeply to the fibres and allows stains to be washed off easily from the surface. The technology combines both stain release and wicking properties, fitting for applications where this dual benefit is required. This technology is PFC-free and has 40% of bio-based content. Unlike many PFC-based solutions that require mixing of multiple products, Devan Stain Release is an easy to apply and ready-to-use product that doesn’t necessitate mixing of different products. The finish doesn’t require reactivation after washing at home with high temperature. Soft handle is maintained.

Devan Stain Release is applicable across a wide range of textile applications, including school uniforms, garments, workwear, apparel, home textiles, bedding accessories and mattress ticking. The technology enhances the longevity of fabrics by reducing the need for frequent washing, ultimately contributing to a more sustainable consumption cycle.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) Chairman Norman Chapman delivered the trade association’s State of the U.S. Textile Industry overview at NCTO’s 20th Annual Meeting on April 11.

Mr. Chapman’s speech highlighted the severe economic challenges confronting the U.S. textile industry that have been exacerbated by predatory trade behavior and customs fraud that is harming this vital and strategic domestic supply chain. He also highlighted NCTO’s effective advocacy efforts that resulted in a long list of accomplishments to counter some of the damaging illegal trade practices and bolster the industry.

“While the domestic textile industry is a key contributor to the U.S. economy and a critical part of the military and public health industrial base, our sector is facing a crisis of historic proportions as the result of rapidly deteriorating market conditions coupled with unchecked foreign predatory trade practices and diminished customs enforcement activities, Chapman stated in the speech. “At the end of the day, some key fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry remained sound, while others weakened. While we expect to see ongoing challenges this year, which will test our resolve, we know collectively as an industry this will not weaken our resilience or our innovative spirit.”

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel Europe (Freudenberg) has reached a further sustainability milestone: The new Freudenberg Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero, Italy, successfully completed the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM) recently and reached the Advanced Level. The aim of the protocol is to progressively eliminate toxic and hazardous chemicals and related risks throughout the production process.

Competence center for interlinings
Freudenberg opened its Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero in May 2023. The factory in Italy is an innovative competence center that coats and finishes nonwoven, woven and weft interlinings for apparel customers in Europe.
Freudenberg has now taken the next logical step: as part of a comprehensive audit, the Apparel Competence Center has implemented ZDHC guidelines in its production process. To achieve this, Freudenberg called in the experts from Process Factory, a consultancy that specializes in sustainability topics. With their support, Freudenberg’s Sant’Omero site has reached the Advanced level of the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM), in line with the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Program.
Implementation is controlled annually based on this protocol and offers companies in the fashion industry a degree of reliability. It guarantees structured, fully transparent procedures, regular monitoring, and continuous control of Freudenberg’s production processes.  

ZDHC
By demonstrating its rejection of environmentally harmful chemicals and substances, the Apparel Competence Center shows that Freudenberg gives top priority to taking responsibility for people and the environment.
The aim of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Foundation and its globally recognized Roadmap to Zero Program is to eliminate the release of toxic chemicals in the textile and fashion industry’s supply chain based on the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL).
By applying the 4s CHEM protocol, the production site in Sant’Omero is sending a clear signal to the fashion industry that Freudenberg products meet the highest quality standards and are also safe and environmentally friendly.

The CEO of SGL Carbon SE, Dr. Torsten Derr, informed the Chairman of the Supervisory Board today that he will not extend his contract, which expires on May 31, 2025. Dr. Derr will continue his duties until the new CEO is appointed, at the latest until May 31, 2025.

“SGL Carbon is once again a strong and stable company whose profitable development I will continue to work on with all my strength until the last day. But even without me, my colleague on the Board of Management, Thomas Dippold, and the team will continue to develop the company successfully. The last almost four years have always been the achievement of the entire SGL team. SGL Carbon is now sailing in stable waters and my transformation work will therefore be completed shortly,” explains Dr. Torsten Derr.

“We are grateful to Dr. Derr for talking to us early on and in a spirit of trust. This will allow us to take our time in arranging his succession. SGL Carbon can look back on three successful financial years, is financially strong and relies on a broad-based management team that continues to drive forward the expansion of the business in strong growth markets. In our appreciative discussions, Dr. Derr has promised to complete all important projects with his usual commitment until the handover of the CEO position,” says Prof. Dr. Frank Richter.

The Supervisory Board will immediately begin the search for a successor to Dr. Torsten Derr.

An der Technischen Universität Chemnitz wird ein Forschungsvorhaben zum Thema "Nachhaltigkeit im Bereich der Textilbranche" durchgeführt. Für die dazugehörigen Umfrage werden Textilunternehmen gesucht, die sich daran beteiligen möchten.

Das Management von Nachhaltigkeit und die entsprechende Berichtpflicht betrifft die gesamte Textilwirtschaft. Aus wissenschaftlicher Sicht fehle, so die Verantwortlichen, jedoch über die Textilbranche, insbesondere über die Bekleidungsindustrie hinaus, noch Wissen zum Thema Nachhaltigkeit. Mit Hilfe der Umfrage soll festgehalten werden, in welchem Umfang Textilunternehmer:in die Themen Nachhaltigkeit und Ökobilanzierung bereits berücksichtigen.

Die Umfrage hat eine geschätzte Bearbeitungsdauer von 15 Minuten und ist unter folgendem Link aufrufbar. Datenschutzrechtlich sind die Angaben anonymisiert, ein Rückschluss auf Unternehmen oder Personen ist nicht möglich.

• Three out of four business units with record sales and results
• Carbon Fibers business weighs on the Group's profitability
• Group sales of €1,089.1 million (-4.1%) and adjusted EBITDA of €168.4 million (-2.5%) in a difficult market environment
• Sales and earnings forecast for 2023 achieved despite drop in demand from key market
• 2024 further capacity expansion in graphite components for silicon carbide-based semiconductors

In fiscal year 2023, SGL Carbon achieved the sales and earnings targets set at the beginning of the year despite the drop in demand from the important wind market and an increasingly challenging economic environment. Group sales decreased slightly by €46.8 million (minus 4.1%) to €1,089.1 million (previous year: €1,135.9 million). At € 168.4 million, adjusted EBITDA, a key performance indicator for the Group, was also down slightly (minus 2.5%) compared to the previous year (€172.8 million) but was clearly within the forecast range for 2023 of €160 to 180 million.

While the positive sales development of the Graphite Solutions (+€53.5 million to €565.7 million), Process Technology (+€21.6 million to €127.9 million) and Composite Solutions (+€0.8 million to €153.9 million) business units had a positive effect, the Carbon Fibers business unit had a negative impact on Group sales with a sales decline of €122.3 million to €224.9 million.

Outlook
The global economy will continue to face comparatively high interest rates and subdued growth prospects in 2024. Tighter financing conditions, weak trade growth and a decline in business and consumer confidence are also weighing on the economic outlook. In addition, heightened geopolitical tensions are contributing to increased uncertainty.

SGL Carbon expects different developments in our key sales markets in 2024. The most important sales and earnings driver will be demand for specialty graphite components for the semiconductor industry. In contrast, all indicators currently suggest that demand for carbon fibers for the wind industry will remain weak in 2024 and that the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit will therefore continue to record operating losses. Even if demand picks up, SGL Carbon assumes that Carbon Fibers will require additional resources to make the most of market opportunities. With this in mind, teh company announced on February 23, 2024, that they are reviewing all strategic options for Carbon Fibers. These also include a possible partial or complete sale of the business unit.

SGL Carbon's sales forecast for the financial year 2024 takes all four operating business units into account, as the company is only at the beginning of evaluating the strategic options for CF. In line with the assumptions outlined, SGL Carbon is therefore expecting Group sales at the previous year's level (2023: €1,089.1 million).

In the earnings forecast, SGL Carbon has taken into account underutilization of production capacity in the Carbon Fibers business unit and the associated high idle capacity costs. The projected operating loss of CF will have a negative impact on the adjusted EBITDA of the SGL Carbon Group in 2024. Due to the expected positive development of Graphite Solutions, SGL Carbon anticipates an adjusted EBITDA of between €160 million and €170 million for fiscal year 2024, taking into account all four operating business units. Should the process of reviewing all strategic options for the CF business unit result in a sale, the forecast of adjusted EBITDA in 2024 would be between €180 - 190 million.