From the Sector

Research and restoring of ancient tradition to shape a denim style which is always cutting-edge, focusing on a 100% Italian supply chain and on the outstanding quality of materials and processes.

“Ciao Milano”, the new edition of the Denim Première Vision show, for the first time in Milan (28-29 Maggio 2019), includes among its protagonist the project signed by Paolo Gnutti, aka PG DENIM. The company, under Gnutti’s creative guidance, has restyled its proposals, with two clear objectives in mind: on the one hand expanding its presence on the high-end denim market, focusing more and more on a bespoke approach and on product innovation, on the other side the ambitious goal of manufacturing one million metres of fabric in the year 2019.

This path of constant research is combined with a totally integrated and 100% Italian manufacturing structure, in order to give the market not just new products, but also new “tools”, says Paolo Gnutti, R&D Head at PG DENIM:
“We are targeting the market section where production always requires thinking out of the box, which feeds the imagination of those who are asked to transform it. Our approach is often made of provocations, suggestions, reflections, through continuous research which leads us to designing frequent and always innovative capsule collections”.

A creative input which almost always results from situations and pathways which bring back the creativity of
PG DENIM, to rediscover techniques and processes of the great Italian and international tailoring tradition.

The last frontier of innovation in racing suits made with yarns in Metamicro is the model Prime SP-16+, designed in collaboration with the Team McLaren Honda F.1

The spinning mill Filidea, joint venture between Marchi & Fildi spa and Abalıoğlu Holding A.Ş specialized in technical and high performance yarns with natural and synthtic fibers, is parter of Sparco, italian Company leader for the production of automotive components and technical apparels for the most important world Championships. The cooperation between the two Companies located in Piedmont, northern Italy, is focused on the supply of yarns with Metamicro in an exclusive composition, that are used for the production of the racing suits Sparco of the Premium range for Formula 1 and the World Rally Championship. The fire resistant yarn Metamicro based on aramidic fibers are a product of the latest generation, for their production it is necessary a special spinning line. The production is following the strict Sparco standards. Sparco controls all the production chain of racing suits, from Filidea, who has the competence to dye all the yarns with aramidic fibers in its own dyeing plant, to the woven fabric, produced and dyed in its own plant, to the woven fabric made by the italian Company TAT, till the production of garments. The process is always improved and tested.

Metamicro yarns are made by an high peformance spinning process. They are used for the production of fire resistant fabrics, that make a protection barrier for the body against flames and high temperature. The very fine micronage allows the production of very light fabrics with thick texture, the perfect base for light and comfortable suits. These features assure easier movements to the driver and the maximum protection from fire, keeping high breathability.

Filidea has invested on its production capacity of corespun yarns with XLANCE® technology, fiber used for the production of longlasting workwear apparel with an excellent fitting.

The spinning mill Filidea, joint venture between Marchi & Fildi spa and Abalıoğlu Holding A.Ş specialize in technical and high performance yarns with natural and synthtic fibers, is increasing its production of blends with XLANCE®.

XLANCE® is the innovative elastolefin fibe, elastic, chlorine and UV resistant. It finds application on workwear and outdoor clothing, with natural and comfort fitting. The comfort stretch feature follows the the body’s natural movement during the day-to-day work. Workwear clothing are so light, resistant and with a contemporary look. Resistance to abrasion and to frequent industrial laundry cycles with chemical products meet the needs of several professional sectors. XLANCE® is produced by ©Xlance srl, Company located in Varallo Pombia (province of Novara – Piedmont – Italy) that found in Filidea the perfect partner for the development of specific yarns, that are getting more and more requested. An innovation that is getting more important thanks to the cooperation of the two textile Companies located in Piedmont. Filidea has been producing XLANCE® yarns since 2009 and has now a great know-how. The Company to strengthens its leadership in technical yarns, for the main applications on protetictive garments, workwear, sportswear, racing and automotive. Filidea has developed and consolidated several partnerships for the creation of complete supply chains and the collaboration with ©Xlance is a perfect example.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG will demonstrate a range of new advances made possible by Industry 4.0 techniques at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20-26.

At stand D101 in Hall 2, visitors will discover the possibilities of ‘digital twin’ capability – now being made available for all Monforts machine systems – and that by exploiting the latest advanced sensor technology, comprehensive technical machine data can now be virtually mapped in the cloud in real time. The data can be easily accessed using the new Monforts Smart Support and Smart Check apps for an instantaneous status overview. All specifications relating to machine performance and the production process can be mapped, to enable vastly simplified and targeted analysis for controlled planning and production. Insights harnessed from such analysis can be used to optimise the actual production process. At the same time, potential sources of error can be anticipated and eliminated, enabling improved machine availability while considerably minimising downtime.

Parts prediction
In addition, the digital twin system provides information on the individual wear parts of a system, such as, for example, converters or gears. “Operators and mill managers are informed by Smart Check sensors when maintenance or the replacement of key components will be required, well ahead of time,” explains Monforts Vice President Klaus A. Heinrichs. “Direct access to the integrated Monforts webshop allows users to instantly order such parts when they are needed, virtually preventing machine downtime.” On request, Monforts can also virtually monitor machine performance and pro-actively alert customers to the need for preventative action. In such cases, however, data is only ever called from the cloud by Monforts when customers have given their full consent, in the interests of data security. Data from Smart Check, for example, can even be used to analyse a system’s energy requirements, allowing machine operation to be optimised by tailoring production runs to the peaks and troughs of electricity costs.

For the cooperation with Lidl within the project “Biodegradable textiles with prints” the CHT Group developed innovative recyclable textile print products.

These Lidl textiles are produced with CHT print pastes and pigments and were certificated by the internationally active consulting institute EPEA GmbH - Part of Drees & Sommer according to the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Standard. With this pilot project the companies demonstrate their sense of responsibility for people and the environment as well as their commitment in the field of circular economy.

According to the Cradle to Cradle approach, shortly C2C, products shall merge into a biological or technical cycle after the end of their life cycle. This re-use helps prevent waste and save raw materials. The impact on the environment and health of all of the ingredients of C2C textiles is already tested in the design stage and during manufacturing. C2C experts additionally ensure a gapless control of the manufacturing processes. They check the chemicals in use, make sure that the water is kept clean and that renewable energies are used. Since this control affects the complete textile supply chain, it guarantees absolute transparency.

The CHT Group can now offer high quality and sustainable substitutes for common textile print pastes with its first biodegradable print pastes and pigments.

• Lenzing enters the age of digital traceability
• Transparency ensured from wood to the finished garment
• Partnership with Hong Kong based TextileGenesis™

The Lenzing Group, world market leader in specialty fibers made from the renewable material wood, is strengthening its leading position in sustainability in the textile industry. Lenzing will use blockchain technology to support its TENCEL™ branded fiber business, ensuring complete transparency and traceability for brands and consumers of its fibers in the finished garment. After evaluating various initiatives Lenzing decided to join the platform of the Hong Kong based technology company TextileGenesis™ to accomplish this ambition.

Consumers increasingly want to understand the ingredients and suppliers of the products they buy, requesting a new level of transparency and traceability. The supply chain transparency from wood to garment and home textiles will enable all customers and partners to identify TENCEL™ fibers and the respective wood source in each production and distribution step. Thanks to a QR code on the final garment, consumers will be able to detect the origin of the clothes they intend to buy.

“With LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers Lenzing was the frontrunner in physical traceability and is now entering the age of digital traceability. This milestone in transparency is a further strong commitment to sustainability”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “Together with TextileGenesis™, we aim to create an unmatched level of transparency for brands and consumers. With this step Lenzing will further help to green up the textile industry.”

Lenzing will carry out several pilot tests over the next few months involving partners along the entire value chain. Lenzing expects the platform to be fully operational as of 2020.

wear2wear is an innovative industrial partnership dedicated to high-quality and sustainable clothing. Five expert partners in Europe have come together to cover the entire recycling loop. On cutting-edge production systems, textile fibres from used clothing will be turned into functional fabrics. Schoeller Textil AG is supplying a wholistic textile portfolio for the workwear area. At Schoeller Textil, the recyclable, functional fabrics from the wear2wear concept belong to the Inspire fabric group. These are high-quality protective workwear fabrics made of 100 percent polyester, which offer the greatest clothing comfort and often feel just like cotton. They are also compliant with the stringent requirements of the bluesign® system.

The sustainable wear2wear concept is synonymous with high-quality, responsible clothing. In European operations, textile fibres from used garments are used to produce new functional fabrics. Depending upon the area of intended use, they also meet strict waterproofing, breathability, protection and comfort requirements. To ensure that the raw material cycle comes full circle, these textiles can be recycled again when they reach the end of their service life. As a result, there is no waste, and they go on to produce new garments. As the wear-2-wear partner companies guarantee that – from the quality of the raw materials to the guaranteed recycling end process – these are 100 percent recyclable, functional fabrics made of recycled textile fibres. Water- and dirt-repelling technologies based on renewable raw materials, along with the most advanced membrane technology, will ensure that the textiles are manufactured and impregnated entirely without the use of PFC in the future too.

Five partner companies  
The five European partner companies in the wear2wear cooperation cover the entire recycling loop. Heinrich Glaeser Nachfolger GmbH is a German fibre and yarn producer and the “recycler” in the loop. Märkischen Faser GmbH (D) is the “upcycler” and fibre manufacturer. Carl Weiske GmbH & Co. KG (D) develops the polymers, fibres, yarns, chemical additives and textile systems, and TWD Fibres GmbH (D), a fully-integrated filament yarn producer, covers the entire range of polyester and polyamide 6.6 continuous filament yarns. Schoeller Textil AG, the innovative Swiss company, is responsible for textile production and manufactures sustainable high-tech fabrics with maximum clothing comfort. The matching climate-neutral and similarly 100 percent recyclable PTFE and PFC-free membrane, as well as recycled outer materials and linings, are supplied by Sympatex Technologies (D), the ecological alternative among the textile function specialists. DutchSpirit is a Dutch company which has been dedicated to environment-friendly clothing since 2010. Its mission is to significantly increase the awareness for sustainable clothing and offer recyclable clothing in the workwear segment. DutchSpirit is the initiator for the development of the Inspire products from Schoeller Textil and provided the inspiration for the wear2wear concept. Further garment-making partners who now also belong to the cooperative group include: Anchor Workwear BV (NL), Hüsler Berufskleider AG (CH), Groenendijk Bedrijfskleding BV (NL), Bedrijfskledingdiscounter BV (NL) and Rifka'S (NL).

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), part of Barry-Wehmiller, received the prestigious Technical Innovation Award from the Flexographic Technical Association (FTA) for its recently introduced SteadyPrint print-stabilization technology. This award was presented May 5, 2019, at the FTA Forum 2019 awards banquet held in New Orleans.

SteadyPrint, now part of PCMC’s Fusion and ELS Max flexographic presses, couples innovative patented mechanical designs with cutting-edge disturbance-cancelling algorithms that suppress disturbances associated with the hard edge, largely removing the impact of bounce in flexographic printing. The press automatically learns when the disturbance occurs on each job and implements the cancellation algorithm to minimize or eliminate the impact on print quality.

“We are extremely excited to be a recipient of the 2019 FTA Technical Innovation Award,” said Rodney Pennings, PCMC’s Printing, Coating and Laminating Sales Director. “The entire PCMC team has worked very hard in developing SteadyPrint over the past couple of years. It is an innovation that we are quite proud of, and we appreciate the accolades that showcase SteadyPrint within the package-printing industry. Winning this award in the year we are celebrating our 100-year anniversary is also incredibly meaningful.”

Two successful events made in Bangladesh where fashion and innovation have, once more, come together to champion change and foster sustainability.

Bangladesh has a mission: to fetch its share in the global 130 billion dollars market of smart apparel by 2025. To reach this goal, the country aims to foster modern, innovative, technology-driven apparel manufacturing and to constantly engage in supply chain conversations.

A fitting stage for these conversations was the 2nd Bangladesh Fashionology Summit that took place on day 1 of the Bangladesh Denim Expo – held on 02-03 May 2019 at the International Convention City Bashundhara. This was a platform for thinkers, innovators, experts, educators to share innovative ideas on this edition’s main theme: “Digitalization – the Next Destination”. Sessions were provided to learn more on how innovation, specifically digitalization, fits in the world of the fashion industry.

Further to an increase in cost of production, the industry is even more compelled to focusing on finding added value for products. Here is where the smart clothing market comes in, an opportunity on which a thriving community of thinkers will commit to lead the “current-generation” garment production into the “next-generation” apparel manufacturing by using latest digital technology.

The Summit has also provided a Tech Innovation Zone (Tech Innovators: Trustrace, Shimmy Technologies, Infinited Fiber, Seachange Technologies, Reverse Resource) in collaboration with Fashion For Good, a platform for innovators to meet with the other components of the eco system, and an Exhibition Zone (Exhibitors: Pivot88, Lectra, Sindabad.com, Pacific Associates, Earlycavehuman, Foursource Group GmbH, A2i-Access to Information, GoBlu, Rudholm Group, QuizRR, BRAC, SNV, SR Asia, Swiss Contact) for companies to showcase their latest innovations, paying special attention to information sharing.

• Very positive development of the specialty fiber business with a 47 percent share in revenue
• Market environment for standard viscose still very tight
• Resolution on dividend: EUR 3.00 plus special dividend of EUR 2.00 per share
• Outlook confirmed: Earnings for 2019 expected at a similar level as in 2018

Lenzing – The Lenzing Group continued its solid development in the first quarter of 2019. Despite a much tighter market environment, the Lenzing Group even recorded a slight increase in revenue, proving once again that it has chosen the right path with its sCore TEN corporate strategy. The declining prices for standard viscose were largely offset in earnings.

A wide range of new technologies will be demonstrated by Vandewiele at the ITMA 2019 textile machinery show in Barcelona from June 20-26, including the latest RCE2+ digital carpet weaving machine.

All Vandewiele technologies are now being equipped for machine-to-machine interaction and learning, as part of the company’s comprehensive TEXconnect programme.

Meeting new industry needs
As a leader in complete carpet manufacturing systems – including BCF extrusion lines, heat setting systems and carpet weaving and tufting machines – Vandewiele has rapidly responded to the evolving needs of the textile industry for smaller and customised production runs, the most challenging of designs, and faster and more sustainable manufacturing.

The company’s sensors, software programmes and servers have become increasingly sophisticated as part of the TEXconnect program, and the real-time data from different machines – across connected manufacturing sites and across different countries and even continents – can be collected and shared. Digital models of both machines and production processes can be created and analysed for the optimisation of production settings, to vastly improve scheduling and planning and also make considerable savings in raw materials and energy consumption.

Virtual and remote control now allows for the Big Data analysis that is propelling the industry forward and will pave the way for AI applications. For carpet manufacturers, all of this is leading to the creation of truly Smart Factories.

RCE2 carpet weaving
The new RCE2+ Rug and Carpet Expert weaving machine is a truly digital workhorse, with all yarns continuously controlled and measured and the difficult bobbin changes of the past completely eliminated. This is as a result of Vandewiele’s latest Fast Creel, with the feed and tension of each pile yarn controlled by individual servomotors.

The pile yarns are now fed directly into the machine without having to pass pile-stop motions, to both increase efficiency and eliminate any waste yarns, while achieving previously unreachable industrial speeds.

The filling enters the machine smoothly via the latest IRO X3 winders, heavy duty filling brakes with multi lamellas, an active yarn recuperator and a high speed weft mixer, where again, all tensions are set electronically. Vandewiele’s servo-driven heddle frames (Smart Frames) are meanwhile already well proven in the industry.

TEXconnect further provides readily-available data on all yarn consumption, tension and threading, and then will supply the predictive maintenance that is paving the way to self-learning carpet weaving machines.

All of this would be unnecessary, if it didn’t result in allowing manufacturers to make the highest quality carpets at the most economic prices ever, with savings on the highest-bulk pile yarns from the Vandewiele extrusion lines, reduced waste yarns in the creel and industrial production speeds that have never before been attained.