From the Sector

• Launched by SCOTT Sports Racing Team with Sitip, Rosti and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei

The collection was designed starting from the needs of the athletes with the aim to offer them the best solution in terms of style and ergonomics, high performance, easy maintenance and perfect fit being also sustainable.

Ispo 2020 saw the celebration of the partnership started last year between Scott Racing Team, Rosti, Sitip and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei for the supply of the team riders’ uniforms. Rosti worked on style and packaging, Sitip on technical fabrics ‘BE-HOT - Heat Generating fabrics’, while ROICA™ provided its premium stretch ingredient. The collaboration carries an interesting news: uniforms are not just highly performing but also, and above all, sustainable.

Sitip created the Native fabric entirely made with recycled yarns and featuring the premium high performing  ROICA™ EF elastomer. The yarn is certified GRS - Global Recycled Standard certification (and also provides special dyeability) with Rosti’s design and high care garment manufacturing.

The main rider of Scott Racing Team Italy, the young and award-winning champion Juri Ragnoli, the “end user” of the uniforms, explaines the requirements that garments should possess in order to meet the sporting challenges that await athletes: breathability, comfort on the skin, performance, durability of the shape and maintenance of the characteristics throughout the course of use of the garment. When asked about the arrival of a new sustainable uniform, the champion said that “it’s right and important to take this direction, which perfectly meets the team’s values, as love for nature and respect for the environment. It will be nice to wear something that follows exactly what you believe in”.

The Indian yarn manufacturer Polygenta, specialized on the manufacturing of sustainable recycling yarns, recently commenced production of recycled polyester FDY yarns at its facilities in Nashik. The yarn is produced using a combination of perPETual Global Technologies patented chemical recycling technology and Oerlikon Barmag’s direct spinning system equipped with the 32-end WINGS concept.

The spinning plant was commissioned by Oerlikon Textile India technologists in close collaboration with the process experts at Oerlikon Barmag, with various FDY products currently being developed. The yarn produced caters to the requirements of premium-segment clients demanding high quality, cost effective sustainable solutions.

As one of the world’s first companies, Polygenta has, since 2014, been producing 100% recycled POY and DTY from post-consumer PET using the patented chemical recycling process developed by perPETual Global Technologies. perPETual’s process reduces CO2 impact by more than 66% compared to virgin PET. The yarn is spun using Oerlikon Barmag systems and equipment. As a result, Polygenta is able to produce a wide range of DTY and FDY yarns that comply with the Global Recycled Standard (GRS).

Focus on Sustainability and Climate Change

Passion for Cotton: The 35th International Cotton Conference Bremen starts on 25 March in the Hanseatic city’s historic Town Hall. But before subject-specific questions are discussed in depth in the individual sessions, the concise and inspiring keynotes by leading business experts from science and industry will draw attention to the current trends and challenges in the industry at the start of the conference. A large part of the presentations is shaped by the current discussion on environmental and sustainability issues and the resulting consequences for the global economy.

Climate Change and Sustainability

“Climate change - a storm in a teacup?” asks Kai Hughes, Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee, Washington D.C., USA, in a provocative speech. The aim of his presentation is to work out the challenges of climate change especially for agriculture and cotton production. This should form the basis for later discussion on concrete approaches and solutions within the cotton community.

With his lecture “The HUGO BOSS sustainability programme ... and what our customer has to do with it” Andreas Streubig, Director of Global Sustainability at Hugo Boss AG, Metzingen, Germany, rolls up the textile value chain from a different angle, starting at the consumer level. As a representative of a premium brand for women's and men's clothing, Streubig discusses sustainability as a strategic element of the corporate strategy and provides information on how elements of the strategy are being implemented at Hugo Boss.

Rüdiger Senft, Head of Sustainability at Commerzbank, Frankfurt am Main, Germany, looks at the changing role of banks in financing the cotton market. In addition to a general introduction to the topic of sustainability and banking regulation, Senft's presentation deals with the financing of the cotton trade from a social and ecological point of view.
The opening session on 25 March is hosted by Bill Ballenden, founder and owner of Dragontree, Swindon, UK, an online auction platform for the cotton trade. As a former cotton manager for Louis Dreyfus in Europe and Asia, Bill Ballenden has many years of experience in the industry.

Cross-Cutting Issues: Digitalisation, Gender, Value Chains

The subsequent session in the conference programme with the headline “A Wider View” is devoted to currently defining trends and important cross-cutting issues in the industry. This goes far beyond classic cotton themes.

A lecture by Mark Messura, Senior Vice President, Global Supply Chain Marketing for Cotton Incorporated, Cary, North Carolina, deals with the role of cotton in an increasingly digitally controlled supply chain. Significant keywords here are faster delivery times, vertical integration, transparency and traceability.

The presentation by Roger Gilmartin, Managing Director of Tri-Blend Consulting, Charlotte, USA, entitled “The secret recipe for timely, cost-optimised and high-quality cotton clothing” promises exciting and enlightening insights. Tri-Blend Consulting conducts studies on the performance of different cotton varieties during the entire consumption process to the finished yarn and evaluates them from an economic point of view.

Amy Jackson, from the Better Cotton Initiative, London, UK, presents ICA Liverpool's “Women in Cotton” initiative. With this commitment, the initiative aims to increase the influence of women in the cotton industry and give them a stronger voice, for example by building networks in cooperation.

Navdeep Singh Sodhi, International Strategic Management Consultant at the Gherzi Textile Organisation, Switzerland, gives an insight into the current development of the value chain for cotton, textiles and clothing in Africa. Looking ahead to the coming decades, also in view of population growth, Africa is seen as having a high potential for building economic structures to improve income and prosperity.

Thomas Schneider, Professor at the University of Applied Sciences in Berlin and active in the field of production planning and control, textile materials and materials testing will host the session. A leading light in his field, Thomas Schneider has more than 30 years of experience in scientific and application-oriented research in the textile and fibre sector, including at the Fibre Institute Bremen e.V.

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

So far, ROICA™ has become a global success in the market reaching in the end consumer’s wardrobe. At Première Vision, the company takes place at the Smart Creation Area, the fair’s centre of sustainability. On show in Paris premium collaborations for the wardrobe of tomorrow starting from G-Star Raw smart jeans and Licia Florio’s soft sports apparel.

“A true pioneer cannot only be the first one of the leading one. It must commit to raise the bar.” Says Shinohe Hiroaki, ROICA™ Chief Marketing Officer based in Germany. “That’s why we are working to evolve and empower the smart yarns of the certified ROICA Eco-Smart™ family with additional performances.”

Bemberg presents fabric innovations and collaborations with fashion brands from the US and beyond

Bemberg will present a full range of new fabric innovations at Première Vision New York. These include manufacturers from around the world including Brunello S.p.A. and Cotonificio Albini S.p.A. from Italy, as well as luxury linings already installed at the Bemberg Lining Showroom in the heart of the Garment District hosted by CHH America. Relevant to report, the luxury yarn dyed jacquard linings made in Japan that can be customized following brands’ designs. While usually minimums are not met by emerging brands and start-ups, Bemberg decided to cooperate with a Japanese producer to offer customized yarn dyed Jacquard lining starting from 55 yards, per colour. Indeed, Bemberg will offer attractive designs, precious aesthetic while keeping its usual technical performances and the precious touch.

“On show in New York there is the whole process of sustainable fashion making,” explains Junshu Furusawa, Sales of Bemberg. “Indeed, through these fabric suppliers, we will be showcasing also new premium brand fashion range adoptions and collaborations with brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal

The participation at Première Vision New York is the second step of a global tour pointing to some of the most cutting edge design innovations on planet Fashion. #Bember2020 kicked off in Florence for Pitti Uomo, the next appointments will be ISPO in Munich. At each ‘sustainable pit-stop’ the company will showcase a different aspect of its multitasking and sustainable imprint.

Bemberg™ supports the new generation of Italian sartorial style

In Florence, Bemberg™ presents an 8-pieces tailoring collection commissioned to and developed with students of the renowned Scuola Triennale di Alta Sartoria Maschile dell’Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori in Rome as well as with prominent lining manufacturers as Brunello S.p.A., Gianni Crespi Foderami S.p.A., Tessitura Marco Pastorelli S.p.A. and Manifattura Pezzetti Srl.

“We couldn’t have started the new year in a better and most promising way!” Says TAKESHI IITAKA, president of Asahi Kasei fibers Italia. The Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers has tasked students at the Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori excellences. The designers of tomorrow created 8 contemporary clothing teaming up with prominent lining manufacturers that offered premium jacquard, striped and dotted materials in vivid colors that follow the seasonal trends. Yarn dyed options made unique by impactful contemporary designs that create interesting contrasts with the tailoring proposals.

The participation at Pitti is the first of a global tour pointing to some of the most cutting edge design innovations on planet Fashion. The next appointments include ISPO in Munich and Première Vision New York.

At each appointment the company will showcase a different aspect of its multitasking and sustainable imprint.

“100 % NATURE” collection by Calida reflects a shared vision for sustainable fashion. A mission and a strong commitment combining comfort with technology, style and a responsible attitude.

Manufactured in a closed, particularly energy-efficient cycle and sourced from sustainably managed forests, the man/woman underwear and loungewear collection by leading fashion brand Calida reaches the 100% of sustainability thanks to the premium stretch fiber  ROICA™ delivers ultimate hyper-performance in both stretch and sustainability.

Cellulose-based premium materials are blended with ROICA™ V550; the non-toxic-release* innovation in sustainable elastic fibers, matching the need for elasticity , quality , comfort with the request for sustainability and respect for the environment.

ROICA™ V550 is part of ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, the latest and cutting edge range of ROICA™, the premium stretch fiber for the modern wardrobe by leading innovator Asahi Kasei.

“100% NATURE” is certified CRADLE TO CRADLE™, which means that raw materials can be used time and again in an ongoing biological cycle. CALIDA is also the first clothing brand worldwide to be awarded the ‘MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX®’ label, which is based on compliance with strict social responsibility and ecological criteria and certifies that the textiles carrying the label have been tested for harmful substances.

• Première Vision New York - 21st to 22nd of January 2020.

Bemberg™ is pleased to present a full range of new fabric innovations at Première Vision New York. Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel.

During this edition of Première Vision New York attendees will discover a full range of new fabric innovations from international partners.

Bemberg™ proposal will especially focus on Velutine Evo for shell fabrics, the new technically advanced finishing refinement technology developed in the Japanese laboratories of Asahi Kasei that offers a premium finish to the best qualities of the classic Bemberg™ peach skin touch. As part of the company’s continuous innovation, Velutine Evo brings better environmental, energy and water profiles for the benefit of Bemberg™ partners in the manufacture of their ranges. It sets a new benchmark for everyday luxury with a new generation of fibrillation technology.

The unique circularity of Bemberg™

Bemberg™ is made from a cotton linter bio-utility material, a natural derived source, and a truly unique one in the smart fiber arena that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. And apart from the exquisite and precious touch of Bemberg™ fabrics, visitors will see the unique circularity of Bemberg™ from its source, manufacture and end-of-life credentials, supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni, confirming a new quality profile and standard with a more responsible and unique position today. Full GRS certification, Oeko-Tex 100, ISO 14001, & Eco-Mark. Bemberg™ also has a new Compostability Certification.

The Innovhub-SSI report confirms Bemberg™ filaments disintegrate at 100% value Twithin the limits specified by the UNI EN 13432, point A.3.1 for disintegration in composting. Also, a new Ecotoxicity metric to EN 13432:2000 Annex E, the compost obtained from the Bemberg™ filaments according to ISO 16929:2013 revealed no ecotoxicity effect.  The Bemberg™ filaments tested for heavy metals and other toxic hazardous substances and was found to comply with tests specified by the UNI EN 13432, for the substances listed in table A.1.

• A naturally advanced collection, a cutting-edge coloration technology, and a brand-new collaborative business model.
• TINTEX stands out at PERFORMANCE DAYS, the functional fabric fair for the sourcing in sports, work and corporate wear.
• Performance Days, Munich, November 13th -14th, 2019 –booth C08 / hall C1

The leading jersey manufacturer brings a new holistic and sustainable approach spun from the company’s DNA and woven in the mission to create Naturally Advanced fabrics.

The WEME collection - A/W 20/21
The new statement collection goes beyond intellectual and spiritual individual needs to embrace a communal vision blurring ‘we’ and ‘me’, ‘conscious’ and unconscious’, responsible innovation and creativity. Developed around the concept sub-collections ID, Superego and EGO, the range comes in electric and active tones and combines smart ingredients and processes to drive innovation by harnessing the company’s unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

The new fabrics are made from a mix of new generation fibers that enhance free movement such as REFIBRA™ by Lenzing, Q-NOVA® by Fulgar and the unique GRS certified premium stretch ROICA™ EF.  The smartcel™ powered ID sub-collection is defined by striped structures that simulate flaws on initially smooth and perfected surfaces and provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects thanks to the inclusion of zinc oxide, provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects. The “EGO” selection comes in rich purples, calm lilacs and feminine yellows and features natural fibers such as organic wool. The “Superego” is available in unique styles and colours, achieved thanks to Colorzen® and the Naturally Clean® finishing. Together these enhance the natural beauty of cotton and cellulosics eliminating harsh treatments and optimizing clean surfaces with vivid colors, and an exquisitely smooth hand feel. Transformed materials take such as ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi take the lead saving up to 77.9% in water compared with regular cottons.

COLORAU®
TINTEX’ cutting edge color technology which received the Sustainable Solution award in the May 2019 edition of Techtextil debuts in Munich. COLORAU®  was created with a Portuguese consortium constituted by premium realities and gives life to responsibly colored fabrics with antimicrobial properties, using natural dyes extracted from different types of natural plants resources that do not use salt in the production.

COLORAU® uses only compounds of natural origin such as thyme, boldo, peppermint, chestnut and gambier in the production of functional and sustainable textiles in a variety of fibers such as cotton, lyocell and wool. An eco-efficient and low temperature surface treatment improves the affinity between the textile substrate and these natural compounds. The technology features a selection of “performing” extracts for appropriate color fastness to light and washing as well as color durability and antimicrobial functionality.

CO.LAB

TINTEX is proud to announce CO.LAB, a smart and collaborative business model and a totally new supply chain developed in coordination and with the support of C.L.A.S.S.. The first sustainable and PETA-Approved collections are 100% traceable without compromising on quality and style. As co-leader and founding actor, TINTEX has invited Becri, Confetil and Pedrosa & Rodrigues, 3 leading companies, each producing specialized garment styles. The new collections are:

1. The ECOPERFORMER by TINTEX with Confetil collection meets the values of millennials and generation Z consumers. Sustainable, multitasking, gender neutral and designed to fit contemporary urban lifestyle. The collection comprises modern soft sports garment with fully transparent innovation values. The range flexes its muscles with the best sustainable and high-performative materials for comfort, ease and style. All selected fabrics are PeTA APPROVED VEGAN. Designed to win.
2. ‘LEGACY H20’ by TINTEX with Becri is 100% traceable and focuses on responsible water-management.
3. ‘SENSING SMARTS’ by TINTEX with Pedrosa & Rodrigues, a next-to-skin soft and sensual range of materials enhancing wellbeing and comfort while harnessing an innovative and responsible way of using chemical products for a greener and safest future.