From the Sector

• Première Vision New York - 21st to 22nd of January 2020.

Bemberg™ is pleased to present a full range of new fabric innovations at Première Vision New York. Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel.

During this edition of Première Vision New York attendees will discover a full range of new fabric innovations from international partners.

Bemberg™ proposal will especially focus on Velutine Evo for shell fabrics, the new technically advanced finishing refinement technology developed in the Japanese laboratories of Asahi Kasei that offers a premium finish to the best qualities of the classic Bemberg™ peach skin touch. As part of the company’s continuous innovation, Velutine Evo brings better environmental, energy and water profiles for the benefit of Bemberg™ partners in the manufacture of their ranges. It sets a new benchmark for everyday luxury with a new generation of fibrillation technology.

The unique circularity of Bemberg™

Bemberg™ is made from a cotton linter bio-utility material, a natural derived source, and a truly unique one in the smart fiber arena that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. And apart from the exquisite and precious touch of Bemberg™ fabrics, visitors will see the unique circularity of Bemberg™ from its source, manufacture and end-of-life credentials, supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni, confirming a new quality profile and standard with a more responsible and unique position today. Full GRS certification, Oeko-Tex 100, ISO 14001, & Eco-Mark. Bemberg™ also has a new Compostability Certification.

The Innovhub-SSI report confirms Bemberg™ filaments disintegrate at 100% value Twithin the limits specified by the UNI EN 13432, point A.3.1 for disintegration in composting. Also, a new Ecotoxicity metric to EN 13432:2000 Annex E, the compost obtained from the Bemberg™ filaments according to ISO 16929:2013 revealed no ecotoxicity effect.  The Bemberg™ filaments tested for heavy metals and other toxic hazardous substances and was found to comply with tests specified by the UNI EN 13432, for the substances listed in table A.1.

DyStar, a leading specialty chemical company with a heritage of more than a century in product development and innovation is pleased to invite you to meet us at DyStar’s Booth H11 of Hall C1, Performance Days at Munich from 13 to 14 November.

Bernhard Knoche, Global Head of Brand & Retailer Management said, “This is our second time at the event, and we are elated to have five of our new developments chosen by the Jury of PERFORMANCE FORUM to be displayed on the Wall Special. Learn and find out how DyStar’s products can help you shape a more sustainable manufacturing journey with us.”

Manufacturers, Brands and Retailers will see intangible benefits from the five winning concepts featured on the Wall Special, namely DyStar CADIRA® Reactive, DYCON® HF on TENOWA® 1, DYCON HF on TENOWA 12, DYCON HF on TEXLENE®, DYCON HF on CERAMICA® GREEN.

DyStar’s Cadira Reactive is a resource saving module which was first launched in 2016. The Cadira concept supports in reduction of water, waste, and energy consumption. And as another sustainable solution offering the DYCON HF series, being the most cost efficient and resource saving continuous process for cellulosics and blends with PES, PA and PU fibres.

The two-day trade fair for the functional fabrics industry highlights a wide range of solutions for Manufacturers, Brands and Retailers globally. At DyStar’s booth, we welcome you to discuss opportunities for collaborations that will help to make the industry cleaner.

• Performance Days: November 13th-14th 2019, Munich, Germany

Munich – ROICA™ smart innovations are The Sustainable fil rouge at Performance Days, the influential fair for innovations, trends, safety & durability and sourcing of fabrics and accessories in functional sportswear & athleisure. Leading fabrics manufacturers and nearly all the well-known sportswear and active clothing brands have chosen the company’s premium stretch fibers of the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family to create their ultimate collections combining comfort, movement and responsibility.

“We are excited to see such a brilliant response from both manufacturers and brands which have decided to use our premium stretch sustainable fibers. We are excited because it really shows that sustainability is not only a marketing hype, but more and more literally interwoven into garments.” Says Shinohe Hiroaki, ROICA™ Chief Marketing Officer based in Germany.  

The company’s partners empowering their ultimate collections with ROICA™ are CIFRA S.p.A. (IT), Maglificio Ripa S.p.A. (IT), M.I.T.I. S.p.A. (IT), Payen group ESF (FR), Piave Maitex S.r.l. (IT), SITIP S.p.A. (IT), Sofileta S.A.S (FR), Sportswear Argentona S.A. (ES), TINTEX Textiles S.A. (PT) and TVB GmbH (DE).

ROICA Eco-SmartTM Family

• “The certified and hyper-performing family features two responsibly made yarns with outstanding stretch performances that give free rein to designers’ creativity and provides the highest stretch ability while complying to the most-cutting edge sustainable standards.” adds Shinohe.
• The GRS - Global Recycled Standard - certified ROICA™ EF is made with 58% of pre-consumer recycled content. GRS guarantees its sustainable mission with a certification by the influential Textile Exchange*, one of the most known and recognized global standards in the market.
• The ROICA™ V550 proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substance under the testing environment according to Hohenstein Environmental Compatibility certification. Made and engineered by Asahi Kasei R&D team, and produced in ROICA™ German plant only, the yarn offers additional and relevant circular economy advantages linked to material health as proved by a Gold Level Material Health Certificate by the Cradle to Cradle Product Innovation Institute for a safe and biological end of life cycle

A naturally advanced collection, a cutting-edge coloration technology, and a brand-new collaborative business model. TINTEX stands out at PERFORMANCE DAYS, the functional fabric fair for the sourcing in sports, work and corporate wear. The leading jersey manufacturer brings a new holistic and sustainable approach spun from the company’s DNA and woven in the mission to create Naturally Advanced fabrics.

The WEME collection - A/W 20/21
The new statement collection goes beyond intellectual and spiritual individual needs to embrace a communal vision blurring ‘we’ and ‘me’, ‘conscious’ and unconscious’, responsible innovation and creativity. Developed around the concept sub-collections ID, Supergeo and EGO, the range comes in electric and active tones and combines smart ingredients and processes to drive innovation by harnessing the company’s unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

The new fabrics are made from a mix of new generation fibers that enhance free movement such as REFIBRA™ by Lenzing, Q-NOVA® by Fulgar and the unique GRS certified premium stretch ROICA™ EF. The smartcel™ powered ID sub-collection is defined by striped structures that simulate flaws on initially smooth and perfected surfaces and provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects thanks to the inclusion of zinc oxide, provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects. The “EGO” selection comes in rich purples, calm lilacs and feminine yellows and features natural fibers such as organic wool. The “Superego” is available in unique styles and colours, achieved thanks to Colorzen® and the Naturally Clean® finishing. Together these enhance the natural beauty of cotton and cellulosics eliminating harsh treatments and optimizing clean surfaces with vivid colors, and an exquisitely smooth hand feel. Transformed materials take such as ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi take the lead saving up to 77.9% in water compared with regular cottons.

Chomarat Group’s composite reinforcements will be featured at the KraussMaffei stand during the next K Messe in Düsseldorf. Chomarat has created a glass reinforcement adapted to the mass production of automotive parts, helping to lighten leaf springs by 60% compared to metal.

Automotive: Producing 60% lighter leaf springs for car's underbody
The new leaf springs made of composites are 60% lighter than their pendants made of steel thanks to KraussMaffei process and the involvement of a network of partners, including Chomarat with G-PLY™ glass reinforcement. Their strength can be deliberately increased in sections where it is required and the corrosion resistance offers further added value.

“We created the fabrics, when Engenuity developed the component, Huntsman supplied the matrix system made of epoxy resin, Johns Manville supplied the glass fibers, Schmidt & Heinzmann manufactured the preforms, Alpex designed the RTM mold and Hufschmied (Bobingen, Germany) took charge of post-mold processing of the component by milling. KraussMaffei has taken over the project management for Hengrui and coordinates the project with the partners.” Francisco De Oliveira at Chomarat explains.

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

Schoeller, the global textile solutions manufacturer dedicated to sustainability and innovation for more than 150 years, introduces its new PROEARTH™ collection of biodegradable textiles. The new collection, comprised of bluesign® approved fabrics with biodegradable polyester, will debut as part of its Schoeller FTC (SFTC) line, a joint venture between Schoeller Textil AG and the Taiwanese Formosa Taffeta Co. Ltd., at Premiere Vision Paris, September 17-19, Hall 6, Stand 6J18.

As the founding developer of the bluesign® system, the first activewear and leisurewear manufacturer to receive Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification, and one of the first companies to sign the UN’s Paris Agreement for climate change, Schoeller continues to be on the cutting edge of sustainable practices, bringing one of the first collections of biodegradable synthetic fabrics to the market. Its most recent development, PROEARTH was created to help offset the more than 16 million tons of textile waste produced in the US alone each year.

Jacket, pant and lining fabrics
The SFTC PROEARTH collection will launch with five, bluesign®-approved fabrics designed for lifestyle, fashion and outdoor categories. Made with virgin polyester that has been optimized for biodegradation and has tested to biodegrade at faster and better rates than competitive offerings, the initial PROEARTH articles available this fall include jacket, pant and lining material qualities with various colour options.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG presented an energy-optimised new version of its industry-leading Montex stenter for the first time at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26th.

With the introduction of the new MonforClean exhaust air treatment system and other unique process innovations, Monforts has been able to further reduce the energy consumption of Montex stenters by a further 13%.

Exhaust air treatment on stenter frames has posed particular challenges over the years, since the air can contain significant amounts of oil, fibre and even wax particles that may see emissions limits being reached in the processing of certain fabrics, depending on the legal specifications.

In addressing this issue, Monforts is now incorporating the MonforClean module into the stenter frame, so there is no additional space requirement. At the same time, the costs for laborious secondary installations and the piping of the exhaust air treatment components, as well as supporting structures are eliminated due to the machine configuration.

Bemberg™ opens its new Lining Showroom in New York in the heart of the Garment District. This is the first showroom totally dedicated to unique, high quality Bemberg lining fabrics. The initial focus will be on a homeland supply of Japanese-made lining manufacturers, introducing them to the market in a new and dynamic way.

The showroom hosted by CHH America, whose remit will be to communicate the advantage and values in choosing Bemberg™ for the best linings option, and how its unique, responsible profile can add quality and brand value appeal to tailoring based apparel brands, designers and upcoming fashion students. The unique offer from this showroom is a dedicated new stock service, managed by CHH, where they will deliver even small meterage on demand.

In addition to this service, Bemberg™ is pleased to present a full range of new fabric innovations at Premiere Vision New York. These include manufacturers from around the world including SMI, Sidonios, Ekoten, Ipeker and Silver from the US, as well as the luxury linings already installed at the showroom.

Huntsman Textile Effects will be highlighting its extensive range of HIGH IQ® intelligent effects at the Functional Fabric Fair power by Performance Days in New York this July. Huntsman’s comprehensive range of non-fluorinated Durable Water Repellency technology will also be presented at the upcoming show.

Through our cutting-edge technology and expert technical knowledge, High IQ® delivers the industry’s leading range of innovative, eco-friendly intelligent textile effects. Fabrics treated with our intelligent effects are sustainable textile products that deliver the performance and benefits consumers expect of high-quality brands.