From the Sector

• The Green Revolution: How Microfactories Can Change the Face of Fashion by Mark Sollman, Product Manager EMEA, Mimaki Europe

With the all-important COP26 Climate Change Conference having taken centre stage in November, there is no time like the present for the fashion world to rally together in stepping up sustainability efforts and getting carbon emissions under control. Globally, the fashion industry is now estimated to account for around 10 percent of greenhouse gas emissions and 20 percent of wastewater , making the pursuit of greener production methods more pertinent than ever before. Thankfully, we are seeing a new era of production enter the fashion arena, with the increasing emergence of technologically advanced, highly automated microfactories.

Along with reducing unnecessary waste through on-demand production, microfactories have a smaller ecological footprint than traditional garment production and require no water use during the production process, making it not only a faster solution, but a greener one too.

Last year’s FESPA saw Mimaki team up with fashion designer Carolina Guzman to bring her designs to life in real time at the show, setting up its own working microfactory live on-site to take her designs from screen to garment within just a day. Guzman’s designs were created using Mimaki’s TS100-1600 Sublimation Printer, before being transferred to textile, digitally cut and finally pieced together. Devised with a string of ethical and environmental objectives threaded throughout, the microfactory also exclusively utilised eco-friendly Greentex fabric, and any remaining material was donated to Sheltersuit: a wind- and waterproof coat that can be transformed into a sleeping bag, which is provided free of charge to homeless people and refugees.

Through working with a number of strategic partners – including transfer printing expert, Klieverik; paper solutions specialist, Neenah Coldenhove; and digital cutting equipment provider, Summa – Mimaki was able to produce a collection of unique, high-quality garments live on the stand during the tradeshow, demonstrating to visitors from more than 100 countries some of the key reasons that microfactories seem set to change the future of fashion…

Unparalleled speed and versatility
Where traditionally, apparel manufacturing has centred on a production chain model of sourcing materials and producing garments in bulk, microfactories are now enabling on-demand, on-location production, making it possible to create everything from unique, one-off pieces and samples right through to entire product lines – all at unprecedented speeds. This means greater flexibility and customisation, enabling designers to modify or update designs and respond to market trends as they occur.

Simplified supply chains and minimised risk
The microfactory setup brings production in-house and on-demand, minimising the cost of not only storing stock, but also of shipping it and responsibly disposing of unsold items. Where recent geopolitical events have highlighted the fragility of global supply chains, microfactories offer a unique independence from these systems, empowering garment manufacturers to future-proof their businesses, become less reliant on external systems and suppliers, and reduce the risk of disruptions.

A boosted bottom line and a greener future
Facilitating savings in a whole line of resources, from physical storage and production space to time and energy, microfactories ultimately have the potential to significantly increase profitability for garment manufacturers, with the additional benefit of being easily scalable as production increases. Perhaps even more compelling, however, are the environmental considerations. Demonstrated on a small scale through Mimaki’s recent project, the environmental benefits inherent to microfactory production will have an even greater impact as it becomes more prolific and commonplace throughout the fashion world, with the potential to effect meaningful environmental change as adoption increases in the years to come.

At Pitti Uomo, Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei celebrates the new year exploring the company’s 90 years anniversary and journey. In Florence, Bemberg™ past and present are linked by style: on display are key historic garments worn by icons such as J.F. Kennedy belonging to historic Roman Sartoria Litrico together with Bemberg ™ new visionary claim “Crafted Elegance“.

On January 11^th, Bemberg™ will be at Pitti Uomo 101 featuring an exclusive collaboration with Luca Litrico, head of the Roman historic Sartoria Litrico, founded by his uncle Angelo Litrico in 1951. He became famous for crafting the highest-quality suits for all the most important men of Dolce Vita era, from Richard Burton to Marcello Mastroianni. Its historic relevance has even been recognized by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage, thanks to its archive composed of hundreds of photos and sketches signed by Angelo Litrico himself. For this occasion, Bemberg™ will showcase four historic suits wore by true style arbiters a such as: former US president John F. Kennedy, dolce vita poster-boy Rossano Brazzi, American astronaut James B. Irwin and iconic fashion designer Angelo Litrico. All garments feature stylish linings woven with Bemberg™ fiber disclosing its ductility always in vogue through time. Over the decades, Bemberg™ established heritage in formal lining has expanded into new territories and able to represent also contemporary outerwear styles.
 
“We are so excited to be back in Florence. Pitti Uomo and Italy are the perfect starting point of our journey through style.” says Mr. Koji Hamada, CEO of Asahikasei Fibers Italia, “At our booth visitors can glimpse the link between past and present, our values and chromosomes for the fashion to come.”

Bemberg™ vision is centred around contemporary beauty, and uniqueness – the fibre manufacturing is exclusively taking place in Nobeoka, where its closed-loop circular economy production approach together its transparent and traceable processes are able to guarantee the responsible certified values.
 
Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei will unveil the second chapter of its journey at Première Vision in Paris with an exhibition where visitors will be able to explore the fashion world, from India to Japan, through fabrics and style of today and tomorrow.

As part of its mission to a fully circular fashion industry, ISKO has joined forces with the CFS by lablaco to show its commitment to this important cause. At Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris on 9-12 December, ISKO engaged with industry leaders from across the world to demonstrate its approach to circularity.
 
At its virtual gallery, ISKO guided its guests through its Metaverse and discussed its goal to eliminate virgin fibres in its fabrics and how it plans to achieve it.
 
Guests were able to dress their avatars in their very own ISKO VR denim jacket and ISKO worked with the Institute of Digital Fashion (IoDF) to design this VR art installation, which represents how it is pushing the boundaries of what is possible, making fabrics from textile waste.

ISKO’s 2023 Collection Vol. 1 is designed to meet the varied needs of today’s consumer by providing fashion, comfort, versatility and responsibility in each of its innovative fabrics. The entire collection is “engineered for nature” using ISKO’s recently launched R-TWO™50+ technology – a process which creates high-quality denim that is less harmful to the natural world.

R-TWO™50+ is the driving force behind ISKO’s efforts to reduce the industry’s impact on the planet. The fabrics are made with a minimum of 50% pre- and post-consumer recycled blend that is entirely Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. This results in less use of natural resources and a reduced carbon and water footprint of up to 45% and 65% respectively.

ISKO has also incorporated hemp into the collection as a sustainably viable alternative to cotton. Hemp requires much less water, no pesticides and grows quickly in almost any type of soil. New spinning techniques give the fiber a softer hand feel and make hemp a genuinely enticing option to cotton.

2023 Collection Vol. 1 includes ISKO Blue Skin™, Jeggings™, ISKO™ Rigid, ISKO Rigidflex™, ISKO EFD™, Summer Colors, Catwalk, ISKO Reform™, ISKO™ Black, ISKO™ Comfort, ISKO Pop™ – and five macro trends (Denim Nation, New Origin, Isko Reborn, Isko Motion, Chill Zone). These trends incorporate some of ISKO’s key denim technologies to create a versatile collection that complements any style, vibe and mood.

ISKO Reform™, ISKO Blue Skin™ and Jeggings™ are the groups used to create fabrics that are trans-seasonal and one-size-fits-all – subscribing to a philosophy of inclusivity that is valued by Gen Z.

The collection also gives prominence to color groups. ISKO™ Black delivers various shades of black with different elasticity and aspect options. This part of the collection fulfils the perennial need for this timeless color. ISKO EFD™, or ‘Eco For Dye’, is a sustainable approach to producing ecru fabric. This technology shortens the production process and saves on water usage. The result is an ecru-colored base that can be used as is for a natural look or can also be dyed to any color.

New this season are the Summer Colors and Catwalk groups. Summer Colors is inspired by an eclectic mix of influences including natural earth tones, workwear looks or bright colors with authentic, open-end denim constructions. Catwalk is a bold and bright addition to the collection that offers on-trend styles in ISKO finishes including ISKO Urban Jeather™, Pearl Coat and Flashy Finish.

• RadiciGroup and DKB introduce the first “circular” ski suit
• A garment made of yarn obtained from recycled materials and designed with end-of-life recyclability in mind, without compromising style, design and technical performance.
• RadiciGroup Ski Club athletes will be the first ambassadors of this sustainability project

The first truly sustainable ski suit, featuring Italian style and design and a zero-kilometre supply chain, is finally here. Two Bergamo companies of excellence played the leading roles in the conception and realization of this highly innovative fashion-sport garment: RadiciGroup, a world leading producer of chemical intermediates, polyamide polymers, high-performance engineering polymers and advanced textile solutions, and DKB, a company specializing in technical sportswear with the same brand name.

The ski suit, consisting of jacket and trousers, is fashioned with a fabric made of RENYCLE, a RadiciGroup yarn obtained from mechanically recycled polyamide (nylon), which affords notable savings in energy and water consumption, as well as lower CO2 emissions. In addition, the suit’s padding and numerous accessories, such as zippers, Velcro, buttons and thread, are also made of polyamide.

This achievement was made possible by the great teamwork of RadiciGroup and DKB on the research and development of chemically compatible materials that can be used in special applications requiring high technical performance. The end result is an almost mono-material garment that significantly facilitates end-of-life recycling. It can be more easily converted into polymers for use in the manufacture of ski boot components and bindings, in addition to applications in the automotive and furnishing industries, or in any other sector requiring the characteristics of high performance polyamides.

The ski suit by RadiciGroup is thus an all-round application of ecodesign and circular economy principles to fashion and garment making, which justifies the claim “Una sostenibilità all’altezza delle nostre montagne” [Sustainability worthy of our mountains] written in a logo patch on the inside of the jacket.

“I am particularly proud of this achievement, a synthesis of my passion and effort,” said Angelo Radici, president of RadiciGroup. “I’ve always loved mountaineering and skiing, and, together with my collaborators, I work hard at our company day in and day out to find innovative solutions that improve the sustainability of our industry. This ski suit is concrete proof of the fact that textiles and apparel can be made sustainable without compromising on comfort, design, looks or performance. I will never get tired of repeating that collaboration among the firms along the production chain is crucial to manufacturing goods with an ecodesign approach, considering their end-of-life recyclability and, thus, potentially giving them unlimited durability. Upstream producers, like us, gladly share our know-how in materials chemistry and experience in recycling with our downstream partners, so that, together, we can find sustainable and viable solutions in the various sectors where we operate.”

Huntsman Textile Effects is bringing its complete end-to-end suite of high-performance solutions for sports apparel to Performance Days Digital Fair from December 1 to 2, 2021 virtually.

Driven by growing consumer interest in active and healthy lifestyles, coupled with the growing number of national sports participation programs that promote healthy living, the global sportwear market shows no signs of slowing. Brands that aim to satisfy this high-growth market need to be able to produce performance apparel that not only delivers sought-after functional capabilities and desirable aesthetics, but also comes with low environmental impact.

Huntsman will introduce the latest addition to the third generation of its revolutionary AVITERA® SE polyreactive dye range at Performance Days. AVITERA® ROSE SE delivers bluish-red shades while reducing the water and energy required for production by up to 50% and increasing mill output by up to 25% or more. It also significantly outperforms available dyeing technologies for cellulosic fibers and blends in terms of value, reducing recipe costs, minimizing processing costs and eliminating reprocessing.

Also in the spotlight are eco-friendly solutions for the challenges of achieving full whites and consistent shades on recycled polyester (rPET) with right-first-time quality. Huntsman’s rPET processing solutions include pre-treatment chemicals, fluorescent whitening agents, state-of-the-art washfast dyes, and finishing solutions for high-performance protection and comfort.

In partnership with Sciessent, Huntsman is also bringing revolutionary antimicrobial and odor-control solutions to Performance Days. These include Sciessent’s Agion Active® X2, a next-generation odor-control solution that combines advanced technologies to both capture and fight odor-causing bacteria for garments that smell fresh for longer and need less frequent washing. The partners are also previewing a new solution: Sciessent’s NOBO™, a cost-effective odor adsorber that provides odor control on virtually any fabric.

Other featured innovations include Teflon Eco Dry with Zelan™ R2 Plus technology. A breakthrough in sustainable water repellency, it contains 30% renewably sourced plant-based raw materials and meets or exceeds performance levels possible with traditional fluorinated technologies. Another exciting Huntsman solution is the new PHOBOL® Extender UXN – a product that optimizes water-repellent finishes for long-lasting fabric protection. It is free from butanone oxime, which has recently been re-classified in Europe and restricted above certain limits in products by bluesign®.

• The leading denim ingredient brand joins lablaco’s virtual reality Circular Fashion Summit 2021 as an Innovation Partner

ISKO continues to reaffirm its commitment towards circularity by participating as an Innovation Partner in the Circular Fashion Summit 2021 by lablaco. The summit will bring together leaders of change across design, technology and sustainability to share knowledge and take action towards creating a circular future for fashion. The event will be held in a VR version of the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris and will take place on 9-12 December.

ISKO’s approach to circularity is built on creating a future where no virgin resources are needed to produce beautiful durable and high performing woven fabrics To achieve this, the leading denim ingredient brand is working to remove its reliance on fossil fuels and virgin materials by employing only renewable energy and by setting the challenging target of using 100% recycled or reused materials.

This impressive goal is possible thanks to the cutting edge technologies ISKO is working with such as a one of a kind process which fully separates and recycles cotton and polyester blends at scale, and collaborative partnerships with MoRe Research that are aimed at discovering new possibilities for cellulose based materials. ISKO’s new generation of R TWO™50+ fabrics are also playing a role in moving towards this goal. E ngineered for nature’ they use a minimum of 50% pre and post consumer recycled blend reducing carbon and water footprints by 45% and 65% respectively, and are all GRS certified ISKO also believes that the transition to a circular economy cannot happen without addressing the impact on biodiversity and our ecology. Tackling the over-sourcing of raw materials is key, as the extraction of new natural resources and the impact on carbon emissions in processing them contributes to more than 90% of biodiversity loss.

In 2021, Berto Industria Tessile embarked on a series of journeys through the denim supply chain, touching both B2B and B2C worlds.

The first journey of this adventure, aimed at discovering and publicizing the world of indigo and, began by talking about the collaboration with the turkish garment maker blue matters creating a green collection to be proposed to the world's top brands, continuing with “su mirura project” in the second chapter.
This project has its objective in supports, with a ready on stock fabrics, (which at this time of difficult availability of product becomes extremely relevant), young emerging talents in the world of fashion that, in our industry, both for problems related to  minimum order quantities and for problems related to financial commitments of startups, would having difficulty in the raw materials research.

In this third chapter of the personal voyage into the world of denim, Berto Industria Tessile talks about two realities that are not only made in Italy, but also made in veneto, for a zero km circularity supports.

Two brands that are part of two different segments of the indigo world of b2c, one operating in the world of clothing and one in the creation of fashion accessories, but who have a common denominator between them, the use of 100% in their collections of denim fabric Berto.*

* See attached document for more information.

Showing its leadership, ROICA™ marks a milestone in the world of stretch, enhancing a contemporary wardrobe made of new generation values that are fully conveyed and visible to the end consumer. Indeed, by creating cutting-edge tools, such as the hangtags that provide, through simple and well-designed icons, clear and concise functional information showing for each application the values and performances of each single ROICA™ families: ROICA Colour Perfect ™, ROICA Resistance™, ROICA Feel Good™, ROICA Eco-Smart™, ROICA Contour™.

On top of this, in order to ASSURE that what is labelled as ROICA™ Sustainable truly reflects the brand’s new generation values, the company created and introduced a branding policy indicating the allowed blends for their smart yarns belonging to the unique ROICA Eco-Smart™ family. A big step toward complete transparency and transparent AUTHENTIC communication.
ROICA™ identity will be activated in all its communication tools and channels, such as a renovated website and social media presence.

At MarediModa – the international fair dedicated to fabrics and accessories for the beachwear, underwear and athleisure sectors - ROICA ™ partners such as Eusebio, Iluna Group, Interjersey Milano, Maglificio Ripa, Penn Textile Solutions GmbH, Piave Maitex and Sofileta shared their latest fabric innovations where sustainability cutting-edge performance and design realized with ROICA™ premium stretch ingredient, were on stage.

With its resource-saving dyeing technology, We aRe SpinDye takes place in H&M's latest Innovation Stories collection called Co-exist.

The use of We aRe SpinDye's technology contributes to reducing both water consumption and CO2 emissions, which in turn leads to a lower impact on the world's ecosystem and creates conditions for our co-existence with nature.

Up to 24% of a garment's entire climate footprint occurs during dyeing. We aRe SpinDye's technology can reduce the consumption of the earth's resources in textile production. On average, the reduction of water is -75%, chemicals -90% and energy consumption and CO2 emissions -30%.

In just one year, the clothing industry uses 9 billion cubic meters of water (which is in line with the annual need for drinkingwater for the entire population of our planet) and 168 million tons of process chemicals to dye fabrics. We aRe SpinDye now hopes that more players in the industry will pay attention to the ways that are available when it comes to resource-efficient dyeing process and quickly implement this technology in their production.

"The enormous resource consumption in the dyeing process is a global problem that must be addressed on a broad front. It is therefore inspiring to work with major brands with an organization that is sensitive to cutting-edge expertise and at the same time shows a willingness to work together to achieve common goals", says Andreas Andrén, CEO of We aRe SpinDye.