From the Sector

Heimtextil will launch the new 2020/2021 trend season with the general theme “WHERE I BELONG”. For the official Heimtextil Trend Preview, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam director Anne Marie Commandeur  introduced the new design themes. The presentation in the run-up to Heimtextil (7-10 January 2020) took place at the Textile Museum’s Textile Lab in Tilburg, the Netherlands on 11 September 2019 and was streamed worldwide.

This season, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam is responsible for the Trend Book content and Trend Space implementation at the upcoming international trade fair for home and contract textiles. Alongside Stijlinstituut Amsterdam, London-based studio FranklinTill and Danish agency SPOTT trends & business contributed to the 20/21 global forecast for perspective-related interior design. Together with the Heimtextil management team, these Trend Council participants gave insights into future styles during a workshop.

At the annual international Trend Council workshop, identity was an ever-present topic: part of a broader discussion on gender and cultural diversity, on tolerance and curiosity. Today, the self-identification process seems more complex than ever. Identities are now formed through experiences that take place simultaneously, on different levels. Locally, nationally, globally, both online and offline. Identity therefore can consist of many different layers. In fact, individuals can all have multilayered identities.

Heimtextil Trends 20/21 Overview:

MAXIMUM GLAM

Pleasure seekers revel in layering theatrical influences and glamorous showtime aesthetics, forging a fantastic marriage between the crafted and digitally rendered. Textiles show a ‘more is more’ attitude through a mash-up of glam, gradients and spectrums, fake fur, pile and fringe, jacquard weaves and fantastic prints. The flashy, kitsch colour range becomes brutally glam thanks to electric sheen, synthetic shimmer, digital glitch and artful blur. A riot of clashes and rebellion.

PURE SPIRITUAL

Idealists seek perfection and purity, restoring equilibrium by connecting with the uber-natural. They embrace technology for good while shifting between realism and mysticism in pursuit of a personal haven. To address a renewed bond with nature, organic matter, raw materials and pure textiles are selected which show nature’s traces, organic structures and irregularities. Shades are created from the earth and cultured by man. An elemental and pure range reflects the source of their existence.

ACTIVE URBAN

Urban dwellers confront the challenges of the fast paced, shape-shifting, man-made environment by searching for utilitarian, adaptable solutions. They value tech performance while making smart use of  available and renewable resources. Functionality is prioritised, while looking cool and working well remains key. Interior/sportswear hybrid textiles show smooth surfaces and a fun mash-up of graphic textures. The palette shows uniform blue, asphalt grey and caterpillar yellow.

HERITAGE LUX

Preservers of historic legacies treasure sensuousness alongside the uncanny, enlightenment together with darkness, for a whole new immersive experience. This new narrative translates to a love for luxury and splendour, decoration and embellishment. Finding beauty in history and nature through ornamental patterning and alluring surface enhancement. Reflecting on ancient history results in a palette featuring enigmatic blood red, sapphire and a lustrous mother-of-pearl.

MULTI-LOCAL

Hyper-locals go global, celebrating inclusivity over appropriation, honouring traditional craftsmanship and adjusting the world’s gaze to embrace exchange, creative integrity and diverse identities. Indigenous style meets global influences. This is a celebration of crafted and decorative pattern, from tribal and folkloric to geometric and abstract. Textile colours become part of a wider cultural narrative, linked to local community, cultural heritage and private identity.

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• Empowering fashion with responsible R&D, cutting edge finishing and a Made in Italy design imprint

Paris - “The soul of sustainable fashion is an alchemy, a combined commitment and an act of responsibility”. This is the motto ‘embossed’ in the collections and the values of Italian Converter. At Première Vision, the leading manufacturer celebrates its 25th anniversary and presents E.C.O. KOSMOS, a cross-collection, a brand-new ‘green line’ range’ and a winning formula shining a light on the company’s responsible path and unique ‘blend’ for the fashion of tomorrow.

The acronym E.C.O. stands for Ecologic, Conversion, Optimisation; three unique concepts and values that truly embody Italian Converter DNA: sustainability, transformative process and quality improvement.
For over 25 years, Italian Converter creates high-quality materials for some of the leading fashion and accessories brands. “Made in Italy and sustainability are part of our DNA.” Says Costantino Karazissis, founder of Italian Converter. “We believe that responsible sourcing and processes as well as a deep research into new technology pathways and a market-savvy taste for material design must be the starting point.”

At the core of the company’s responsible alchemy is also the constant research for the perfect balance of 100% Made in Italy materials. “We proudly collaborate with 120 skilled employees producing new hybrid material innovations daily, attracting partnerships from the best high-end brands both in Italy and abroad”.

Toupe and brick red E.C.O. Graffiti (100% linen) on E.C.O. Aurora (cotton and AMNI SOUL ECO®)

E.C.O. KOSMOS is entirely traceable, transparent, 100%made in Italy. The collection walks through a very complete and balanced range sustainable materials - from natural to eco high tech ones- that are transformed, enriched and valued in 9 high-tech cutting-edge innovations thanks to the Italian Converter expertise.
•    The natural line starts from bases of cotton bonded with AMNI SOUL ECO®, an enhanced polyamide 6.6 that degrades within 5 years instead of decades, as other conventional ones do.
•    The stretch innovations start from bases in GRS-certified Newlife™, a cutting-edge premium recycled polyester created using a High-Tech Conversion Model. Thanks to a mechanical process, used plastic bottles are turned into a top-quality polymer and yarn which is 100% traceable and 100% Made in Italy. The whole process takes place within a 100 square km area in Piedmont in Northern Italy.
 
All the references make use only of water-based resins and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified dying. The result, is resistant and transpiring solutions which come with bold and high-performing features, with a soft touch or even with a silky, yet strong, and enveloping feel. The designs range from rustic to contemporary and nod to jacquard, ‘authentic look’ and ‘drill’ hints. An ideal solution for footwear, apparel and leather goods.

Long story short? No compromises. E.C.O. Kosmos reflects design, innovation and responsible values, as well as 100% Italian Converter know-how.
 
“But this is just the beginning,” adds Karazissis. “The next step we are going to implement in the E.C.O. Kosmos cross-collection is a progressive integration of our triple-expertise, processes and R&D.” A sustainable step forward, a leap woven into a deep expertise a story to-be-continued. For a better future, this is for sure.

For the first time, Italian textile company Manteco showcases its ultimate innovations at Première Vision’s Smart Creation, the fair’s most cutting edge epicentre showcasing visionary innovators pushing for a sustainable change and making the difference in the fashion business. The Prato-based company is leader in the production New Generation Recycled Wool thanks to a specially designed KM0, traceable and circular economy model.

Behind the sustainable approach and the premium quality textiles there are generations of ‘saper fare’ - know-how, in Italian -, indeed, Manteco’s products are not only responsibly Made in Italy but imbued with the skills of the artisans and makers working within 10 kms around the company. “Made in Italy does not mean processing high-quality materials with international technologies and then label the final product for export. It means products grown, taken care of and handcrafted in the country.” Says Matteo Mantellassi, CEO of Manteco. “But there’s a further step to this: harnessing the local ‘genius loci’, meaning the skills, traditions and human potential of a territory. We are proud to say that since 1943 we have always been 100% Made in Italy.”

STAMFORD, Conn. – At this year's Paris Airshow [Le Bourget, June 17-23] Hexcel will promote a range of carbon fibers and composite materials used to manufacture high-performance weight-saving structures in civil aircraft, engines, helicopters, and space applications.

Visitors to the Hexcel stand will see an Integrated Wing Panel demonstrator and an I-beam, both made with HiTape® carbon fiber reinforcements. HiTape® dry carbon reinforcements were developed for the automated lay-up of preforms and to complement a new generation of HiFlow™ resin systems, producing high-quality aerospace structures using the resin infusion process. The reinforcements incorporate a toughening veil to enhance mechanical properties and meet the structural requirements for aerospace parts. The I-Beam was manufactured using C-RTM (Compression Resin Transfer Molding) and was injected with Hexcel’s RTM6 resin in a process taking less than five minutes.

Hexcel honeycomb saves weight and enhances stiffness in composite structures, and the company provides a range of engineered core solutions that enable highly contoured parts with precision profiling to be produced to exact customer specifications. A sample part made from aluminum FlexCore® that is CNC machined on both sides and formed and stabilized with both peel ply and flyaway layers of stabilization will be on display.

Another honeycomb innovation is Hexcel’s Acousti-Cap® broadband noise-reducing honeycomb that significantly improves acoustic absorption in aircraft engine nacelles. The acoustic treatment may be positioned at a consistent depth and resistance within the core or can be placed in a pattern of varying depths and/or resistances (Multi-Degrees of Freedom and 3 Degrees Of Freedom), offering an acoustic liner that is precisely tuned to the engine operating conditions. These technologies have been tested at NASA on a full engine test rig and meet all 16 design conditions without trade-offs.
Another Hexcel technology to benefit aircraft engines is HexShield™ honeycomb which provides high-temperature resistance in nacelles. By inserting a thermally resistant material into honeycomb cells, Hexcel provides a core product with unique heat-shielding capabilities that allows for the potential reuse of material after a fire.

With 50 years of experience behind its comprehensive range of high-strength, high-strain PAN-based carbon fibers, Hexcel continues to innovate and is introducing two new fibers to its portfolio. HexTow® HM50 combines high modulus and high tensile strength, making it ideal for commercial and defense aircraft and engines. HexTow® 85 was developed specifically to replace rayon-based carbon fiber for ablative applications.

Another area of expertise that uses HexTow® carbon fiber is additive manufacturing, where Hexcel uses PEKK ultrahigh performance polymers and HexAM™ technology to manufacture carbon reinforced 3D printed parts. This innovative process provides a weight-saving solution for intricate parts in highly demanding aerospace, satellite and defense applications. HexPEKK™ structures offer significant weight, cost and time-to-market reductions, replacing traditional cast or machined metallic parts with a new technology.

Later this year Hexcel will open a joint research and development laboratory in Les Avenières (Isère), France with Arkema to develop carbon fiber-reinforced thermoplastic prepreg tapes for aerospace, space and defense applications. A spool of thermoplastic prepreg tape will be on display on Hexcel’s stand to showcase this cost-effective technology that enables lightweight parts to be produced in faster production cycles for future generations of aircraft.

Hexcel’s stand is located next to Hexcel’s official distributor for aerospace products, Groupe Gazechim Composites. In 2018, Hexcel and Gazechim formed a joint venture, HexCut Services, to provide aerospace and defense customers with customized kitting services that include Hexcel’s innovative carbon fiber prepreg, fabrics and adhesives. Pre-cut kits save customers time and investment, reduce inventory and minimize material losses through scrap reduction.

• Neue 3D-Flechtmaschine und Mixed-Reality-Lernumgebung für den Webprozess

Das Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen University (ITA) zeigt auf der ITMA im Under Linkway Stand D221 (UL D221) unter anderem das digitale Retrofitting einer 3D-Flechtmaschine zur Herstellung von dreidimensional verstärkten keramischen Turbinenkomponenten und eine Mixed-Reality-Lernumgebung für einen Webprozess zur Qualifizierung neuer und bestehender Mitarbeiter.

Digitales Retrofitting einer 3D-Flechtmaschine zur Produktion dreidimensional verstärkter keramischer Turbinenkomponenten
Basierend auf einer vorhandenen konventionellen Mechanik wurde eine 3D-Flechtmaschine digitalisiert und nach Industrie 4.0-Standard neu aufgebaut. Somit wird zum Beispiel das Prototyping und die Produktion dreidimensional verstärkter keramischer Turbi-nenkomponenten ermöglicht. Als virtuelle Mikrofabrik kann in einer entsprechenden Software-Umgebung die Verarbeitung sehr empfindlicher beziehungsweise spröder Fasermaterialien simuliert werden. Anschließend werden die Prozessdaten generiert und die Produktion in der realen Maschine abgebildet. Die Prozessstabilität wird somit auf annähernd 100 Prozent gesteigert, die Maschinengeschwindigkeit konnte um 150 Prozent erhöht werden. Die ortsunabhängige Simulations- und Steuerungssoftware (Open Source) erlaubt eine äußerst flexible Prozessplanung und –steuerung der Prozesskette mit einem mobilen Endgerät – im konkreten Anwendungsfall für die Herstellung eines textilen Preforms für eine keramische Komponente im Turbinenbau.

Mixed-Reality Lernumgebung für den Webprozess
Ausbildung und Qualifizierung von neuen und bestehenden Mitarbeitern sind gerade für Maschinen- und Textilhersteller wichtige Voraussetzungen für den Unternehmenserfolg. Das ITA hat hierfür eine  Lernumgebung an einem 3D-Modell einer-Bandwebmaschine entwickelt, die auf der Mixed-Reality-Technologie basiert. Unter Mixed-Reality versteht man die Vermischung von Daten aus der Realität und aus künstlichen 2D- oder 3D-Objekten (virtuelle Realität).

Das 3D-Modell einer Breitwebmaschine wird zur Veranschaulichung per Mixed-Reality-Technologie für den Mitarbeiter im Raum dargestellt. Eine Mixed-Reality-Brille überträgt schrittweise Arbeitsanweisungen zum Rüsten der Maschine auf reale Maschinenkomponenten. Nun kann der Mitarbeiter beispielsweise einen Prozessfehler, der zum Maschinenstillstand geführt hat, interaktiv an dem 3D-Modell beheben, ohne dass eine weitere Hilfestellung notwendig ist. Im konkreten Fall handelt es sich um den Bruch eines Schussfadens.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG will demonstrate a range of new advances made possible by Industry 4.0 techniques at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20-26.

At stand D101 in Hall 2, visitors will discover the possibilities of ‘digital twin’ capability – now being made available for all Monforts machine systems – and that by exploiting the latest advanced sensor technology, comprehensive technical machine data can now be virtually mapped in the cloud in real time. The data can be easily accessed using the new Monforts Smart Support and Smart Check apps for an instantaneous status overview. All specifications relating to machine performance and the production process can be mapped, to enable vastly simplified and targeted analysis for controlled planning and production. Insights harnessed from such analysis can be used to optimise the actual production process. At the same time, potential sources of error can be anticipated and eliminated, enabling improved machine availability while considerably minimising downtime.

Parts prediction
In addition, the digital twin system provides information on the individual wear parts of a system, such as, for example, converters or gears. “Operators and mill managers are informed by Smart Check sensors when maintenance or the replacement of key components will be required, well ahead of time,” explains Monforts Vice President Klaus A. Heinrichs. “Direct access to the integrated Monforts webshop allows users to instantly order such parts when they are needed, virtually preventing machine downtime.” On request, Monforts can also virtually monitor machine performance and pro-actively alert customers to the need for preventative action. In such cases, however, data is only ever called from the cloud by Monforts when customers have given their full consent, in the interests of data security. Data from Smart Check, for example, can even be used to analyse a system’s energy requirements, allowing machine operation to be optimised by tailoring production runs to the peaks and troughs of electricity costs.

Lectra has been awarded by a jury of experts the Texprocess Innovation Award 2019 in the New Process category for its latest ground-breaking offer, Fashion On Demand by Lectra.

Fashion On Demand by Lectra automates the entire personalization process, from order reception and product development to the final cutting stages. Resulting from a four-year research-and-development process, the digital solution for on-demand production was developed based on Industry 4.0 principles.

"We are very proud to receive this prestigious award at Texprocess, the biggest international event for all fashion players. Fashion On Demand by Lectra allows companies to produce personalized clothing at the same speed as ready-to-wear and avoid overstocking by producing in precise quantities,” states Holger Max-Lang, President, Northern & Eastern Europe, Middle East, Lectra.

Fashion On Demand by Lectra is available in the form of two packages, one dedicated to made to measure, with pattern adjustments, and the other to customization, with product characteristic alterations. This turnkey solution automates on-demand production right from order reception to production development stages and the cutting room. Companies can define their desired product personalization criteria for each item depending on the package, and launch production processes right from the get-go, without interfering with their standard workflows.

"This innovative cloud-based platform solution ensures efficient made-to-measure and customization production processes and facilitates nearshoring for companies that offer individualized products. This technology is up and running and can be used by the fashion industry on a plug-and-play basis," say the jury experts. “Since 2011, the Texprocess Innovation Award has been honoring remarkable achievements and new developments in the Texprocess product range under two categories: new technology and new process. The winners are selected based on criteria such as degree of innovation, choice of materials and environmental sustainability."

First showing of game-changing technology at a European tradeshow includes the recently launched Kornit Atlas, Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro and Kornit Presto
Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, has announced details of its corporate presence at Fespa 2019 which will take place in Munich, Germany, May 14-17.

Kornit’s exhibit will focus on the game-changing technology that was unveiled in the beginning of the year and will now be on display for the first time in a tradeshow in Europe: the Kornit Atlas and the Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro. The presence will be complemented by a Kornit Storm HD6, a direct-to-fabric sample area featuring prints from Kornit’s upcoming Presto system and an installation of Colorgate’s Textile Production Server for Kornit.

The Kornit Atlas is a heavy-duty system created for super-industrial garment decoration businesses. It is designed to deliver a typical annual production capacity of up to 350,000 impressions, optimizing production efficiency and cost of ownership. The Kornit Atlas is aimed at highly productive garment decorators, mid to large size screen printers and innovative businesses looking to combine state-of-the art technology with lowest cost of ownership, making it easier than ever to address the requirements of leading and mid-sized brands, as well as new generation digital brands. The Kornit Atlas uses water-based Kornit NeoPigmentTM Eco-Rapid Inks which are eco-friendly, GOTS approved and OEKOTX certified, and serve as the main driver of the retail quality prints.

A wide range of new technologies will be demonstrated by Vandewiele at the ITMA 2019 textile machinery show in Barcelona from June 20-26, including the latest RCE2+ digital carpet weaving machine.

All Vandewiele technologies are now being equipped for machine-to-machine interaction and learning, as part of the company’s comprehensive TEXconnect programme.

Meeting new industry needs
As a leader in complete carpet manufacturing systems – including BCF extrusion lines, heat setting systems and carpet weaving and tufting machines – Vandewiele has rapidly responded to the evolving needs of the textile industry for smaller and customised production runs, the most challenging of designs, and faster and more sustainable manufacturing.

The company’s sensors, software programmes and servers have become increasingly sophisticated as part of the TEXconnect program, and the real-time data from different machines – across connected manufacturing sites and across different countries and even continents – can be collected and shared. Digital models of both machines and production processes can be created and analysed for the optimisation of production settings, to vastly improve scheduling and planning and also make considerable savings in raw materials and energy consumption.

Virtual and remote control now allows for the Big Data analysis that is propelling the industry forward and will pave the way for AI applications. For carpet manufacturers, all of this is leading to the creation of truly Smart Factories.

RCE2 carpet weaving
The new RCE2+ Rug and Carpet Expert weaving machine is a truly digital workhorse, with all yarns continuously controlled and measured and the difficult bobbin changes of the past completely eliminated. This is as a result of Vandewiele’s latest Fast Creel, with the feed and tension of each pile yarn controlled by individual servomotors.

The pile yarns are now fed directly into the machine without having to pass pile-stop motions, to both increase efficiency and eliminate any waste yarns, while achieving previously unreachable industrial speeds.

The filling enters the machine smoothly via the latest IRO X3 winders, heavy duty filling brakes with multi lamellas, an active yarn recuperator and a high speed weft mixer, where again, all tensions are set electronically. Vandewiele’s servo-driven heddle frames (Smart Frames) are meanwhile already well proven in the industry.

TEXconnect further provides readily-available data on all yarn consumption, tension and threading, and then will supply the predictive maintenance that is paving the way to self-learning carpet weaving machines.

All of this would be unnecessary, if it didn’t result in allowing manufacturers to make the highest quality carpets at the most economic prices ever, with savings on the highest-bulk pile yarns from the Vandewiele extrusion lines, reduced waste yarns in the creel and industrial production speeds that have never before been attained.

At the Texprocess trade fair in Frankfurt/Main, Germany (May 14th to 17th 2019) VEIT Group will present on more than 400 m² the latest highlights in the areas of ironing, finishing, pressing and fusing in the garment industry as well as automotive and interior sectors.

"Pressing for Excellence" is the corporate slogan of the VEIT Group. In addition, this year's motto at Texprocess is "LOVEIT" which is a wordplay on "love it" or “love VEIT”. In the words of VEIT Group President Günter Veit: “Our motto stands for the passion that we have for the engineering of our products, our love of perfection and our devotion to our customers. This is the basis of their trust in our products. We want to offer our customers value not only now, but also for the future which we believe will be more digital and more sustainable. Both Industry 4.0 readiness, as well as the good of operator and environment are essential components of our product development efforts.”

Among the large portfolio of high-performance technology presented at the trade show, there is a significantly improved shirt finisher SF 26. With the new model SF 26, VEIT manages to further increase both the functionality and the ergonomics of the shirt finisher. For the customer, this optimisation in application technology is reflected in higher quality of the finished product and simplified operation.

Combined with the improved FS shirt folding table series – a highly successful product – VEIT offers true streamlining potential while maintaining high quality levels when folding shirts, blouses and polos in 3 versions.

Reacting to the customers’ demands, VEIT has equipped their popular BX fusing machines – BXT, the universal solution for shirts and outerwear – with a separate feeding belt and a 7” colour operating panel. These changes make the BX fully industry 4.0 ready and helps to further improve the ergonomics and energy efficiency.

In order to increase flexibility in the shaping of textiles, VEIT will present a new solution for high-quality finishing of the elbow seam in the area of BRISAY machines – the BRI 860 VC sleeve seam finish pressing machine. The 8430 universal multiform finisher was enhanced to cover an even wider range of applications. It can now also be used for finishing, among other items, also polos, T-shirts, blouses, blousons and jackets.

In addition to the innovative machine highlights, VEIT has also developed special solutions for customers' investment decisions. "More and more companies that are making investments are not only looking at the purchase price, but rather at the total lifetime cost of ownership," explains Vice President Christopher Veit. VEIT is presenting two interesting offers to meet this trend:
Customers may choose to buy a machine according to the “Pay Per Piece” system, which means that they pay for how much the machine is used, instead of a full up-front investment. This reduces the investment risk and allows more flexible reactions to especially to scalable business opportunities. Alternatively, when purchasing a machine the traditional way, customers can limit operating costs, extend the machine’s lifespan and achieve improved machine availability by signing a service contract. With its global service and partnership network, VEIT Group can offer this service worldwide.