From the Sector

Toray Industries, Inc. will expand the French subsidiary Toray Carbon Fibers Europe S.A.’s production facilities for regular tow medium- and high-modulus carbon fibers (up to 24,000 filaments). This move will increase annual capacity at the Abidos plant (South-West France) from 5,000 metric tons annually, to 6,000 metric tons. Production is expected to start in 2025.

Demand for medium- and high-modulus carbon fibers is rising in Europe, driven by a push to move towards a net-zero society. This growth is mainly due to higher build rates for commercial aircrafts (secondary structures and engines), as well as centrifuge for energy production, satellites, and high-end automobiles. By boosting carbon fiber production capacity in Europe, Toray is responding to its customers’ demand for medium and high-modulus carbon fibers, as befits the market leader.

Lectra, a leader in technology solutions for the fashion, automotive and furniture industries, will be listed in the CAC Mid 60 and SBF 120 indices of Euronext as of market close on September 15, 2023. This listing will enhance the visibility of the group with potential shareholders and customers in France and internationally.

Founded 50 years ago, the Lectra Group offers software, connected cutting equipment, data analysis solutions and associated services to players in the fashion, automotive and furniture industries to accelerate their digital transformation and transition to Industry 4.0. In 2017, the company initiated its Lectra 4.0 strategy, with the ambition of becoming an indispensable player in Industry 4.0 worldwide by 2030.

For Daniel Harari, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Lectra: “Lectra's entry into the CAC Mid 60 and SBF 120 indices is an outstanding recognition of the successful actions we have taken over the past few years to ensure the profitable growth of our company and the success of our customers. We have changed dimension, notably with the acquisition of our historical competitor, Gerber Technology in June 2021. We have expanded our customer base, launched new cloud-based offerings which have enabled us to significantly increase the volume of SaaS software in our revenues, and offered new Customer Success Management services to support our customers. We have also made Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) one of the pillars of our strategy.”

Team Jumbo-Visma’s triumphant victories in Europe’s three Grand Tours of cycling, including the recent Vuelta a España, were supported by AGU’s cycling kits that are powered by the HeiQ Smart Temp thermoregulation technology.

HeiQ celebrates its collaboration with AGU, a high-performance sports gear manufacturer. Together, the companies integrated HeiQ Smart Temp technology into the jerseys of Jumbo-Visma, the triumphant team whose outstanding cyclists Jonas Vingegaard, Primoz Roglic, and Sepp Kuss won Europe’s three Grand Tours; the Tour de France, Giro d’Italia, and Vuelta a España.

HeiQ Smart Temp, an innovative thermoregulation solution, dynamically responds to body heat and moisture, providing cyclists with a cooling effect when they need it most. This technology enhances comfort and performance, making it ideal for next-to-skin apparel, sportswear, and activewear.

AGU's product developers harnessed the power of HeiQ Smart Temp to create jerseys with cooling properties. The Jumbo-Visma team's lightest-weight jersey, weighing 25% less than their regular aero shirt, keeps athletes up to 2.5°C cooler than other performance fabrics.

Modedesign-Absolvierende der TEXOVERSUM Fakultät Textil der Hochschule Reutlingen präsentierten ihre Abschlusskollektionen im Rahmen der Neo.Fashion. während der Berlin Fashion Week.

Das Veranstaltungsformat Neo.Fashion. ist das größte seit 2017 etablierte Graduate Fashion Event in Deutschland. Während der Berliner Fashion Week bietet die Neo.Fashion den besten deutschen Modedesignabsolvierenden eine Plattform, um sich neben zahlreichen Vertretern aus Presse und Industrie auch einer breiten Öffentlichkeit zu präsentieren. Die TEXOVERSUM Fakultät Textil nahm mit dem Schwerpunkt Fashion Design des Studiengangs Fashion & Textil Design 2023 zum vierten Mal teil.

Die Reutlinger Talente Angelina Oganesyan, Elias Jaaouf, Marlon Hahn, Mariela Fleckenstein Castillo, Meri Mamaladze und Özlem Aydin begeisterten das Publikum in Berlin und auch im YouTube Livestream mit ihren Abschlusskollektionen, die mit Kreativität, Enthusiasmus, Talent und Expertise in den vergangenen Monaten in den Laboren der Hochschule designt und realisiert wurden.

Eine besondere Auszeichnung erhielt Meri Mamaladze. Sie wurde als eine von zwölf „Best Graduates“ aller teilnehmenden Hochschulen ausgezeichnet und war mit ihrer Kollektion Emptiness of Plenty Teil der Neo.Fashion. Award Show, die den Höhepunkt der gesamten Neo.Fashion. 2023 bildete.

„Die grandiose Show unserer Absolvierenden an der Neo.Fashion. im Rahmen der Berlin Fashion Week zeigt die exzellente Qualität der Ausbildung am TEXOVERSUM und unterstreicht gleichzeitig unsere Position als eine der führenden Hochschulen im Bereich Fashion und Textil“, berichtet Prof. Natalie Seng, Leiterin des Schwerpunkts Fashion & Lifestyle Design im Anschluss an die Fashionshow in Berlin und resümiert: „ Die Absolvierenden können sehr stolz sein und es war toll zu sehen, wie die Gemeinschaft der Studierenden des TEXOVERSUMs sich gegenseitig unterstützt und auch viele Ehemalige angereist kamen, um Ihre Kommilitonen und Kommilitoninnen zu supporten.“

Erst kürzlich hatten die TEXOVERSUM Fakultät Textil und die Neo.Fashion. eine zukünftig vertiefte Kooperation bekannt gegeben und ab 2024 gemeinsame Aktivitäten im TEXOVERSUM am Standort Reutlingen für die wirtschaftliche, kulturelle und politische Förderung von Modedesign-Talenten und aufstrebenden Designerinnen und Designer angekündigt.

Ein Outfit aus der Kollektion „Structures of Asia“ von Özlem Aydin auf der NEO.Fashion. 2023, Foto: Gerome DeFrance/Neo.Fashion.

The PREMIUM and SEEK teams around Anita Tillmann and Jörg Arntz prove their skills with the success of the new Trend and Event Platform. The format, newly shortened to just two days, showed a total of 450 curated, international brands of the new generation, with 250 brands at PREMIUM and 200 brands at SEEK. The motto was quality over quantity. In addition to the brands, the focus was clearly on the know-how of experts from sustainability, tech, and business. If you didn't discover or learn anything new in the last two days you missed out. Visitors from all over the world came to Station Berlin to see what the Premium Group had come up with for this edition - and it did not disappoint.

PREMIUM reinvents itself
The newly curated brand portfolio with many international and unexposed brands were very well received by the community and invited buyers and visitors to explore a diverse, exciting, and coherent brand landscape. The atmosphere was characterised by lightness, lots of sunshine, and good conversations.

For the first time, PREMIUM and the Fashion Council Germany joined forces to present the showroom "CURATED by Fashion Council Germany" with avant-garde designers from Germany and Ukraine. The tech format Yonnaverse addressed the most important innovations for profitability and sustainable growth through digital progress. The event took place physically, digitally, and in the Metaverse.

Iranian artist and milliner Maryam Keyhani showed what surrealism marketing and tangible art can look like with her oversized hat, which floated happily over the grounds and caused surprised faces. The installation by the Italian designer Innerrraum from Berlin was dedicated to Anita Tillmann in gratitude for her international success. Artists such as Sophie Douala from France, Claudia Gillies from New Zealand, and Grycja Erde from Ukraine were a welcome addition in making the PREMIUM visit an experience.

The diverse portfolio also included a range of beauty brands and the beauty lounge offered much-loved make-up, hair and nail touch ups. There were also many new things to discover in the retail sphere. Vintage & Rags presented a new retail concept for second-hand fashion and SPSR showed how to take retail entertainment to the next level through unique live consumer engagement. On the Content Cube stage, Daniel Steindorf, the former owner of Überfahrt, spoke with Inga Klaassen from J'N'C about hospitality fusion, community, and retail, next to other speakers.

SEEK put a stronger focus on sustainability
As in previous editions, a relaxed and positive mood prevailed at SEEK. The community was happy to finally fall into each other's arms again. SEEK convinced with high-quality and original brands and an even stronger focus on sustainability. For the first time, SEEK's brand portfolio consisted of 50% sustainable brands, further strengthening the Conscious Club and allowing it to flourish. The Conscious Club was supported by the sustainability experts from studio MM04, whose 202030 - The Berlin Fashion Summit Denim Pop-up ensured a full Content Cube.

Decision-makers and fashion professionals discussed the learnings of the denim transformation, the new green claims of the EU textile strategy as well as pragmatic solutions on how to remain and act more sustainable and competitive as an industry and individual brand. As a counterpart to Black Friday, Cold Friday, initiated by Dojo Cares, was presented as the "biggest awareness campaign since sales days have existed". Fair fashion and fair working conditions were the focus of the final conference of the "Good Clothes Fair Pay" press conference by Fashion Revolution, which was also part of the Conscious Club. On top of a lot of sustainability inspiration, for the first time there was a space for D2C brands such as VGB and ADR Atelier Roupa, who were involved both as brands and as speakers in the content programme. For two days, two stages were filled with talks and panels with the most relevant themes from fashion, lifestyle, culture and business. Gen Z, Gen Y and Gen Alpha met for espresso martinis and club culture vibes at "Platte raves the Ground" to discover and stage the coolest styles of the scene.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, was granted status last month as an accredited stakeholder with the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), which, among other privileges, will allow representatives from the association to observe the formal ongoing negotiations of the UN Global Plastics Treaty. INDA Government Affairs Director Wes Fisher was on site at the second session of the treaty negotiations formally titled the “second session of the Intergovernmental Negotiating Committee to develop an international legally binding instrument on plastic pollution, including in the marine environment.” The negotiations took place from 29 May to 2 June 2023 at the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) Headquarters in Paris, France.

“We are excited to continue to enhance the capacity of INDA’s government affairs department to better serve the industry on a global scale,” stated Fisher. “We look forward to working with the UNEP to provide technical input regarding ongoing plastics treaty issues specific to the nonwovens industry, and engaging with other UN processes with our new status as an accredited stakeholder.”

Accreditation provides non-governmental organizations with observer status to the United Nations Environment Assembly, UNEP, and its subsidiaries. Accreditation will bring many advantages to INDA with respect to participation in the work of UNEP’s Governing Bodies, such as the United Nations Environment Assembly of UNEP and the Committee of Permanent Representatives.

UN Global Plastics Treaty negotiations have garnered significant attention from both industry and environmental groups. At least three more negotiation sessions are expected with the goal of finalizing a treaty by the end of 2024.

On the occasion of EURATEX’ General Assembly held in Milan on 7 June, the European textile industry  discussed the relationship between innovation, sustainability and people in the industry of tomorrow. EURATEX members welcomed the Textiles Transition Pathway, released on 6 June by the Commission, as a valuable roadmap to ensure a successful green and digital transition. The meeting in Milan was also the occasion to strengthen links with textile machine manufacturers, gathering at ITMA 2023.

Hosted by Sistema Moda Italia (SMI), EURATEX meetings addressed the crucial issue of how to develop new competitive business models for the future, following the Industry 5.0 concept. In 2021, the European Commission launched “Industry 5.0”, which puts the wellbeing of the worker at the centre of the production process and the use of new technologies to provide prosperity beyond jobs and growth, while respecting the production limits of the planet.

The keynote speakers, Francesco Pinto (Chairman, Yamamay) and Claudio Cavacini (Director of Retail Industry Solutions & Strategy, Salesforce), presented how the digital transformation is affecting companies in the retail industry and how they should adapt to maintain their competitive edge. A panel session of textile machinery manufacturers debated how their companies can help delivering this transformation through state of the art machineries. They all agreed that it requires common efforts by all actors and stakeholders along the textile value chain and public support to make the necessary investments. According to Enzo Maurer, ITMA President, ITMA 2023 in Milan will exactly showcase excellence in innovation and new available technologies to make a leap forward in sustainability.

According to Sergio Tamborini, "we are particularly honored to host this event organized by Euratex, the association which is the voice of the European textile industry and its demands, especially those concerning the circular economy. Sistema Moda Italia wants to play its part and there are priorities, from legislation on extended producer responsibility (EPR) in Italy to eco-design, where textiles and clothing will act as a testing ground. SMI's goal will be to continue to encourage the debate on circularity  promoting it in all institutional settings aiming to a growing sustainable  supply chain.”

Alberto Paccanelli, EURATEX President added: “Today’s discussions showed that we are ready to take up new challenges. Nevertheless, this  transition towards a textiles 5.0 can only happen with the support of all actors, from policy makers to retailers. Today’s meeting was also the occasion to review the EU transition pathway for the textiles ecosystem, published yesterday by the European Commission. The pathway is the perfect example of a co-creation process between the European institutions and the stakeholders. We hope that other EU initiatives or legislative proposals will follow the same co-creative process.”

With four months until the technical textiles and nonwovens show opens its doors, floor space booked by international suppliers is already more than double the area of the previous edition, which attracted 366 exhibitors from eight countries and regions. Taking place from 19 – 21 September 2023 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, this year’s fair will see the European Zone return to the fairground. The high-traffic zone is set to welcome a number of new and returning exhibitors eager to showcase their products to a business-hungry domestic market.

Speaking at the fair’s previous edition in 2021, Mr Roberto Galante, Plant Manager of FMMG Technical Textiles (Suzhou) Co Ltd, said: “The Chinese market is a big opportunity for everybody, because every day the market is demanding more. The potential here is incredible, and there is more demand for overseas brands. These brands are known for their very high quality, and while China’s industry has developed very well in the past few years, it still needs support from overseas brands with high quality products. This fair is good for us, and we exhibit here every year.”

Multiple domestic and international exhibitors have confirmed their participation at Cinte Techtextil China 2023, with the European Zone playing host to FMMG and other key industry players, such as:

• Bekaert, Belgium
• Fil Man Made Group, Italy
• SANITIZED, Switzerland
• SCANTECH, France

Outside the European Zone, additional international suppliers will showcase their diverse product applications at the fairground, with categories including Coating & Bondtec (Stahl); Fibre & Yarn (Barnet); Nonwovens Equipment (Dilo); Technology & Machinery (Picanol); and Testing Equipment & Certification (TESTEX). Other European exhibitors in these categories include Autefa Solutions, Reifenhauser Heinsberg, Reifenhauser Reicofil, and SICAM.

Chinese suppliers set to complement international contingent
A comprehensive range of domestic exhibitors are eager to meet new buyers and renew old business connections at this year’s fair, including:

• Shanghai Shenda Kebao New Materials
• SIJIA New Material (Shanghai)
• Zhejiang Jinda New Materials
• Zhejiang Hailide New Material

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

International technology group ANDRITZ has successfully delivered, installed, and commissioned a converting line for manufacturing baby diapers at Naturopera’s new plant in Bully Les Mines, France.

The eXcelle converting line from ANDRITZ Diatec features special technology to produce both traditional and bio-based baby diapers, supporting Naturopera in its efforts to become a leading producer of a new generation of sustainable diapers.

While most diapers available on the market consist of 70% fossil-based plastic, Naturopera is preparing to produce diapers made of 90% bio-based raw materials. This groundbreaking diaper concept was developed in a close collaboration between Naturopera and ANDRITZ. It replaces the traditional spunbond and meltblown nonwoven layers with spunlace nonwovens mostly made of natural fibers. A prototype of the 90% bio-based diaper was recently produced at Bully Les Mines.

The ANDRITZ converting machine operating at Naturopera is highly flexible, taking just a few settings to switch to the production of bio-based diapers. It is designed for a multiple-size process, features an operator-friendly interface, and guarantees a production speed of 800 ppm.

Naturopera is a French company producing baby care, femcare and household products with a strong focus on local production and sustainability.

Lectra’s Annual Shareholders’ Meeting held on April 28 appointed two new Directors, Karine Calvet and Pierre-Yves Roussel for a four-year term. They both will become members of the Strategic Committee, replacing Bernard Jourdan, Lead Director, and Anne Binder. Karine Calvet also becomes a member of the Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Committee.

With its new strategic roadmap for 2023-2025, the Group aims to use its expansion – mainly due to the acquisition of Gerber in June 2021 – to accelerate its growth, significantly increase the share of SaaS in its sales, and seize opportunities for external growth. Supported by the commitment of its staff and recognized by its customers, Lectra will also be at the forefront of a more sustainable future.

Karine Calvet is Vice-President EMEA responsible for Partners at AVEVA, a subsidiary of Schneider Electric. She began her career at CGI in 1993 and has spent most of it in IT: sixteen years in services companies, seven years in telecommunications, and six years in software. She has had leadership roles in telecommunications environments for leading global companies (CGI, Capgemini, Alcatel-Lucent, Verizon, Microsoft and currently Schneider-Aveva), focusing on digital transformation. Karine Calvet served as Head of Industry at Capgemini, then managed worldwide teams at Alcatel-Lucent as Vice-President, Eastern Europe then at Verizon as Managing Director. Her time at Microsoft strengthened her software expertise, her direct and indirect channels skills, and her experience in IT services. In the last two years, as Vice-President, Southern Europe then Vice-President, Partners and Alliances at Schneider-Aveva, Karine Calvet has worked closely with industrial companies to help them meet the challenges of operational efficiency, safety, cost management, sustainability and decarbonization by taking advantage of digitalization.

Pierre-Yves Roussel has been CEO of leading US fashion label Tory Burch since January 2019. He began his career in investment banking with HSBC in Brussels, then at Morgan Stanley in London. In 1990, he joined management consulting firm McKinsey & Company in France, where he led numerous consultancy assignments in the fashion, luxury, distribution and media sectors in Europe and Asia. In 1998, he was elected Partner then, in 2004, Global Senior Partner (Director). In 2004, he joined the LVMH Group Executive Committee as Executive Vice-President, Strategy and Operations, reporting directly to Bernard Arnault. In 2006, he was appointed Chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, one of the LVMH Group’s five branches of operational activity. From 2006 to 2018, he was Chairman of the Board of the brands Céline, Givenchy, Loewe, Kenzo, Pucci, Rossimoda, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Berluti, JW Anderson and Nicolas Kirkwood. He has also been a member on several prestigious fashion juries including Andam, CFDA Fashion Incubator, and the LVMH Fashion Prize. He was a member of the management committee of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode et de la Couture from 2010 to 2018. In 2018, he left the LVMH Group to take up the post of CEO – based in New York – of the company Tory Burch. Founded by his wife in 2004, the private family-run company has more than 350 stores worldwide, 13 retail websites, and nearly 5,000 employees.