From the Sector

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has updated its report on Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge with new topics in line with the European Union’s Competitiveness Compass and the Clean Industrial Deal. Specific scientific research is needed to better protect people and the environment from hazardous chemicals and to develop balanced and effective regulatory measures.

The report introduces new topics to reflect ECHA’s growing responsibilities. It also covers emerging topics in waste and recycling that aim to support circularity and enhance Europe’s industrial competitiveness. 

For example, more specific research is needed on:  

• chemical emissions and exposure from the waste stage of materials to help create more accurate emission estimates to avoid potentially over-conservative regulatory measures;
• recycled non-fossil fuel resources, to improve our understanding of their hazards and support EU policies that aim to reduce pollution and promote sustainable growth; and
• the valuing of environmental impacts to assess the effectiveness and proportionality of chemicals regulation and specific regulatory actions under, for example, REACH and the Batteries Regulation.

Dr Sharon McGuinness, ECHA’s Executive Director, said: 
“Since ECHA’s first report in 2023, we have seen important, regulatory-relevant scientific research get underway. For example, new research has been initiated on developing analytical methods to detect and measure PFAS for use by enforcement authorities and on generating monitoring data on a specific phthalate that is a chemical of concern.   

“Our updated report reflects the European Commission’s Clean Industry Deal and Competitiveness Compass, by inviting more specific research to support the circular economy and innovation in Europe.”

Other research needs added to the report include developing better methods to monitor chemicals in water environments, such as rivers, lakes, and oceans, and how chemicals can contaminate drinking water from materials that come into contact with it.

Background
The Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge report is part of an evolving research and development agenda aiming to support and inspire the research community. The list of research needs is not exhaustive. The report reflects ECHA’s current priorities, including the Agency’s new tasks. It was originally developed to support the work under the Partnership for the assessment of risk from chemicals (PARC). 

PARC is a seven-year EU wide research and innovation programme under Horizon Europe which aims to advance research, share knowledge and improve skills in chemical regulatory risk assessment.

ECHA’s role in PARC is to ensure that the funded scientific research addresses current regulatory challenges related to chemical risk assessment and adds value to the EU’s regulatory processes.

After years of giving precedence to economic growth over environmental considerations, China has set ambitious goals to tackle ecological challenges and to emerge as a global leader in green innovation.

For European SMEs, China's green transformation can unlock opportunities in sectors such as renewable energy, environmental technologies, sustainability consulting, and ESG services. However, challenges remain, and many European firms face hurdles in matters of compliance with the country’s strict and evolving regulatory landscape.

On 24 April, the EU SME Centre and European Union Chamber of Commerce in China are inviting European SMEs to a workshop on China’s green development sector, its emerging market opportunities and challenges to prepare for.

Thursday 24 April
In Shenzhen & Online
10:00 – 11:30 Brussels Time / 16:00 – 17:30 Beijing Time

Agenda: CST – China Standard Time
16:00 – 16:05 Opening remarks
- Klaus Zenkel, Vice President and Chair of the South China Board, European Chamber
- Liam Jia, Team Leader, EU SME Centre

16:05 – 16:25 Green Development in China: Opportunities and Challenges for European SMEs in China
Nathalie Ieong, Senior Project Manager and Expertise Manager, Terao Asia

16:25 – 16:45 Update on the European Commission’s Simplified Rules on Sustainability and Their Potential Impact on EU SMEs in China
Prabhu Ramkumar, Vice President and Head of Sustainaibility of TÜV SÜD North Asia

16:45 – 17:15 Panel Discussion: Industry Case Studies & Best Practices
Moderator: Filippo Pallaroni, Training Centre Coordinator, EU SME Centre

Panellists:
Nathalie Ieong, Senior Project Manager and Expertise Manager, Terao Asia
Prabhu Ramkumar, Vice President and Head of Sustainaibility, TÜV SÜD North Asia
Christian Gassner, Vice Chair of the European Chamber Manufacturing Forum
Tobias Könings, Vice Chair of the European Chamber SME Forum
Jiahui Lu, Associate Vice President of Towngas Smart Energy

17:15 – 17:25 Q&A session

17:25 – 17:30 Closing remarks

Online registration

Global Standard, the nonprofit that owns and operates the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) views the recently published European Commission Omnibus package as a step backwards in the pursuit of a more sustainable EU as the cornerstone of the Green Deal:

“Removing around 80% of companies from the scope of the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), postponing its reporting requirements and introducing substantial changes to the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) goes far beyond simplification. By weakening social and environmental norms applying to companies, the Omnibus package is penalizing those economic actors, such as the more than 15,000 GOTS-certified facilities, that are convinced and have proven that long-term sustainability and competitiveness go hand in hand. The proposed amendments also discourage investors – when investments in sustainable technologies are needed more than ever.

In addition, at a time when consumers are most interested in the social as well as the environmental impact of supply chains, watering down the CSDDD’s requirements is disheartening. This move may lead to further environmental damage, corporate human rights violations and business as usual, further reinforcing power imbalances.
GOTS remains firmly committed to advancing sustainability in the textile sector by relying on internationally recognised frameworks, including the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights and the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector. These frameworks provide a globally recognised foundation for responsible business conduct, supporting the idea that sustainability is not compromised in pursuit of economic or administrative simplifications.”

One year after the launch of the Antwerp Declaration, 400 business leaders gathered to discuss the Clean Industrial Deal with European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen. Earlier in the day, President von der Leyen presented the initiative to the public, outlining its vision for strengthening Europe’s industrial base. The Antwerp meeting was a crucial moment for industry leaders to assess its impact and demand concrete measures for urgent implementation.

Representing 200,000 textile companies and 1.3 million workers across Europe, EURATEX welcomes the Clean Industrial Deal as a crucial framework to support industrial competitiveness. However, today’s discussions underscored the reality that without swift and targeted action, the European textile sector will remain at serious risk. High energy prices, regulatory complexity, and unfair competition from imports that bypass EU standards are making it increasingly difficult for manufacturers to stay afloat.

EURATEX President Mario Jorge Machado highlighted the industry's struggles with high energy costs and unfair competition. "European textile companies are facing a substantial crisis, combined with an increasingly complex regulatory landscape. We need a level playing field, particularly concerning online platforms that circumvent established quality and sustainability standards."

Addressing Commissioner Hoekstra, in charge of Climate, Machado declared: “We are ready to take responsibility, but if we want to save the planet, we cannot do it alone. Europe represents less than 10% of global CO₂ emissions in textiles—yet we are imposing strict sustainability laws on ourselves, while unsustainable imports take over the market. If we continue like this, we are simply outsourcing pollution to other regions while shutting down European factories.”

EURATEX has outlined four key priorities within the Clean Industrial Deal that must be addressed to safeguard the textile sector:

• Affordable Energy Action Plan: Securing stable and competitively priced energy is essential to retain textile production in Europe and sustain employment.
• Public Procurement Reform: Prioritising EU-made, sustainable textiles in public tenders will support responsible production and foster demand for innovative, eco-friendly products.
• Competitiveness Fund: SMEs, which form the backbone of the textile industry, require targeted financial support to invest in new technologies, upskill their workforce, and enhance competitiveness.
• Clean Trade and Investment Partnerships: To ensure fair global competition, trade agreements must uphold environmental and social standards across supply chains.

President Machado emphasises the need to stimulate demand for sustainable textile products. "We must shift the focus from solely pressuring manufacturers to adopt sustainable practices to actively incentivizing consumers and public procurers to choose sustainable options. If the cost of sustainability is not covered by the customer, it will be carried by the planet!'"

EURATEX therefore urges the European Commission and EU member states to move forward without delay in implementing a comprehensive support package for the textile industry. “Entrepreneurs are making the difficult decision to shut down production," warns Machado. "We need concrete action now to prevent further closures and ensure that the European textile industry not only survives but thrives in the years to come.”

AIMPLAS will focus in this phase on the dissolution of PVC in textile waste and the chemical recycling of polyurethane foams. tExtended solutions are to be soon tested on a Europe-wide level and replication potential is to be studied regionally. Activities will also involve local community actors in the development and improvement of its blueprint.

The focus on finding solutions to the growing issue of textile waste is growing at both European and global levels. The EU-funded project tExtended is spearheading innovation in this area with the development of a blueprint, a knowledge-based masterplan to develop and demonstrate effective textile recovery, reuse, waste valorisation, and recycling processes.

After two years of extensive research, tExtended is now entering the second phase of work. The project continues developing its Conceptual Framework, a knowledge-based solution that targets quality retention. tExtended is also preparing to test it in an Industrial-Urban symbiosis collaborative real-scale demonstrator, to show its potential to reduce textile waste by 80%.

AIMPLAS, the Plastics Technology Centre, will play a key role in several areas of this phase. Regarding the identification and classification of materials, the centre is working with advanced technologies such as optical sensors (NIR, RGB and hyperspectral cameras) in collaboration with VTT. The aim is to assess the composition of textiles to meet recycling requirements. In addition, they will develop methods to separate non-textile parts, such as electrostatic and triboelectric separation, and classify garments by type through air separation. For this, the technology centre will use equipment adapted to process textile parts on a pilot scale. In addition, they are investigating the dissolution of PVC in textile waste to facilitate the separation of other materials and improve their recycling once separated. AIMPLAS is also working on a chemical recycling process for polyurethane foams to recover polyols that can be reintegrated into polyurethane foam formulations.

These project activities will take place in different formats in all the countries of the tExtended consortium, including Finland, Sweden, Belgium, France, Ireland, Latvia, Slovakia, Spain, Portugal, and Switzerland. The real scale demonstrator will be carried out in wide collaboration on European level, but tExtended will also realize localized regional studies for the evaluation of the replication potential.

The four-year project, funded by the European Commission’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme, also focuses now on the social aspect of the textile sector by involving local community actors in the project activities. Through citizens’ participation in different actions on pre-sorting and returning used textiles, tExtended will raise their awareness about the sustainability and circularity of textiles.

The road towards the development of the tExtended masterplan for a sustainable textile ecosystem has already brought the project to reach relevant successes. Especially, the results obtained about improving upcycling processes and in designing a future data-driven circular ecosystem will influence the upcoming work towards the tExtended goals.

This project has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme under Grant Agreement No.101091575.

The European Chemicals Agency’s (ECHA) investigation found that use of non-polymeric aromatic brominated flame-retardant additives pollutes the environment due to their persistence, bioaccumulation and toxicity. These substances are released to the environment throughout the product lifecycle, with waste stage being of particular concern.

ECHA has investigated, as requested by the European Commission, the uses and releases of aromatic brominated flame retardants (ABFRs), and their (potential) hazardous properties. It has also considered possible alternatives and aspects related to recycling and waste management.

The investigation focused on 60 ABFRs that are potentially on the EU market. The key findings are:

• Environmental impact
  Of all ABFRs, non-polymeric additives pose the highest environmental risks due to their tendency to leach from the material. ECHA identified five substances with particular concern, confirmed to be either persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT) or very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB). In addition, 37 ABFRs are likely to be PBT. Of these, 17 are non-polymeric additives;
• Uses and releases
  ABFRs are used in many applications. The sectors contributing the most to the overall releases are electronics, construction and textiles. Releases from the waste stage are key contributors, particularly when materials are shredded or end up as landfill;
• Alternatives
  Alternatives to ABFRs are available for many uses. These include organophosphate flame retardants and non-combustible materials. However, some organophosphate flame retardants may have similar hazard properties as ABFRs and are prone to leaching. Polymeric ABFR additives are viable alternatives to non-polymeric ABFR additives in many uses;
• Waste management
  Inefficient recycling and waste management systems may increase environmental releases of ABFRs. To address the challenges, ECHA emphasises the need to eliminate problematic plastic additives early in the value chain; and
• Group approach
  Some non-polymeric additive ABFRs are not registered under REACH. Yet, they have been detected in the environment at high concentrations. This suggests potential issues with REACH registration compliance or uncertainty about the plastic composition in imported articles. Therefore, any regulatory action on ABFRs should consider a group approach.

This investigation will support the European Commission in deciding whether to request ECHA to prepare a restriction proposal and, if so, what its scope should be. A potential restriction on flame retardants is already included in the Commission’s planning document, the Restrictions Roadmap.

EDANA, the global association for the nonwovens and related industries, concluded its annual Sustainability Forum at the KBR Royal Library of Belgium in Brussels. This year's forum, themed “Building a Sustainable Future Together,” featured a series of keynote addresses, panel discussions, and collaborative sessions focused on environmental responsibility, corporate social responsibility, and circular economy innovations within the nonwovens sector. With an agenda that bridged policy and practice, the Forum highlighted the latest advancements and strategies aimed at tackling climate change, reducing waste, and enhancing sustainability practices.

Keynote Highlights
The forum featured two keynote speakers: Ana Rovzar, Founder of Polygon AR, opened the Forum with a keynote on the accelerating transition to clean energy. In her speech, she discussed the shift from conventional energy investments to renewables, noting a 50% growth in renewables in 2023 alone. “It is accelerating much faster than people think” she remarked, emphasizing that “real progress requires a united front from governments, businesses, and communities to remove regulatory and technological barriers”.

In another keynote, sustainability expert Mike Barry, formerly of Marks & Spencer, stressed the importance of aligning corporate strategy with sustainability. “Citizens see climate change as a top priority, and companies must act boldly to reduce emissions, especially Scope 3”, he said. “Sustainability is now a vital part of brand identity, and consumers expect more transparency and commitment than ever”.

Innovative Industry Perspectives and EU Policy Impacts
Brieuc Lits, Public Affairs Director at EDANA, examined the potential effects of the EU Green Deal on the nonwovens industry. “The EU’s shift towards balancing sustainability with competitiveness will shape not only policy but the very framework within which we operate”, he noted, emphasizing that the sector must adapt to stay competitive and aligned with regulatory expectations.

Lastly, Paolo Haeusermann, Senior Brand Director and Europe Sustainability Leader at Procter & Gamble, shared insights on advancing sustainability in absorbent hygiene products and emphasized the importance of these items. “We are talking about essential products in people’s lives”, he remarked.

Corporate and Product Sustainability: A Deep Dive
Several industry leaders shared insights on integrating sustainability at every level of business. Carsten Ruff from Nitto Advanced Film Solutions discussed the challenges and strategies of embedding sustainability in corporate culture, particularly in a multinational setting. “Sustainability is not a contradiction to industrial applications; it’s a powerful driver of innovation”, he observed.

Martijn Gipmans from Sphera Solutions highlighted the business value of transparency and life-cycle assessments (LCA). “LCA and transparent ESG reporting can catalyse both business growth and environmental progress”, he explained, stressing the importance of integrated sustainability assessments to reduce the carbon footprint of entire product portfolios.

Christophe Morel-Fourrier, Sustainability Leader for Hygiene, Packaging, and Converting Adhesives at Bostik, introduced the Archimedes tool as a strategic asset for Portfolio Sustainability Assessment. “Archimedes allows us to make transparent, informed decisions that align with our long-term sustainability goals”, he explained. He highlighted that this tool helps companies evaluate the sustainability of their product portfolios, empowering them to make impactful choices that support environmental goals.

The Path Forward: Advancing Circularity and Green Innovation
One of the most discussed topics was the industry's transition toward a circular economy. Albert Hammerschmied from Freudenberg Performance Materials highlighted the importance of post-industrial waste in achieving circularity, particularly in the automotive sector. “The potential for nonwovens in the automotive circular economy is vast, but requires industry-wide collaboration”, he commented.

In a session addressing the future of sustainable practices in building insulation, Alexandre Butté of ANDRITZ Laroche emphasized the importance of sustainable materials and collaboration among stakeholders. “The building industry faces unique sustainability challenges, but with innovation and eco-friendly materials, we can bridge the gap between goals and achievable practices”, he said.

Building a Sustainable Health Sector
Danielle van Horzen, Global Marketing Manager for Hygiene and Healthcare at SABIC, discussed advanced recycling solutions in the healthcare sector. Addressing the challenges of medical waste recycling, she stated, “A significant amount of medical waste is not contaminated, offering us opportunities to create circularity in healthcare.” She pointed to the potential for advanced chemical recycling to enable circular models, helping to tackle the pressing issue of sustainable medical waste management.

The day concluded with a session on the circular potential within healthcare. Kristien Depraetere, Sustainability Coordinator at UZ Leuven, outlined sustainable practices in hospitals, from waste reduction to advanced recycling in medical waste. “Healthcare can lead by example in the transition to circularity, yet we need practical and legislative support to address unique industry challenges”.

Visit to the European Commission
The third day of EDANA’s Sustainability Forum 2024 concluded with an insightful visit to the European Commission, offering attendees a unique opportunity to engage directly with policymakers and gain firsthand insights into the EU's sustainability agenda. Hosted at the Charlemagne Building, discussions centered on pivotal elements of the EU Green Deal, including the establishment of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), the scope and implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD), and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

Featuring presentations from prominent EU officials like Vicenzo Gente and Werner Bosmans, attendees delved into how these regulations are shaping sustainability strategies across industries. Bridging policy and practice emerged as essential, reinforcing the forum’s dedication to aligning industry actions with current EU regulatory frameworks. The session offered a strong conclusion to the event, reinforcing a shared commitment to a sustainable future in collaboration with EU leaders and regulatory bodies.

The Integrated Regulatory Strategy (IRS) has increased the knowledge on chemicals and sped up identification of substances for which regulatory risk management actions are required. Refocussed IRS 2024-2028 will continue moving substances to risk management.

ECHA’s Integrated Regulatory Strategy aimed to speed up data generation, identification of groups of substances of concern, and regulatory action. It did so by integrating different regulatory processes into one approach to manage chemical risks effectively and efficiently. The strategy also encouraged collaboration between ECHA, Member States authorities and the European Commission.

The original goal of the IRS was achieved: to clarify which REACH registered substances are a high priority for regulatory risk management or data generation, and which are currently a low priority for further regulatory action.

ECHA’s sixth and final report of its Integrated Regulatory Strategy 2019-2023 shows that it achieved its goal of screening high production volume chemicals, manufactured or imported above 100 tonnes per year, that were on the European markets in 2018.

Since 2019, ECHA has grouped and screened 6 000 substances, and addressed almost all of the 4 100 high production volume chemicals. Around 1 900 of substances screened in ECHA’s assessments of regulatory needs may potentially require regulatory risk management, mostly harmonised classification and labelling (CLH) or restriction under REACH. For more than two thirds of those, further data is needed first to confirm the relevant hazards. Around 60 % of all substances screened did not require further action.

Several substance groups, identified as requiring regulatory risk management, have been included in the EU’s Restrictions Roadmap, for example bisphenols, ortho-phthalates, flame retardants, hydrocarbyl siloxanes and hydrocarbylphenols.

Ofelia Bercaru, ECHA’s Director of Prioritisation and Integration, said:
“The strategy has significantly contributed to the EU ambition towards reaching the United Nations’ 2030 Sustainable Development Goals concerning chemicals. Over the next four years, we will continue the coordinated approach towards prioritising substances for risk management, whilst maintaining our good knowledge on ECHA’s chemical database, enhancing transparency with authorities and stakeholders, and exploring synergies with ECHA’s new tasks.

Next steps
The reviewed IRS for 2024-2028 will continue to improve the protection of human health and the environment from risks posed by hazardous chemicals. ECHA, the European Commission and Member States’ authorities will focus on agreeing more swiftly the necessary risk management measures for the identified substances of concern.

The future prioritisation of authorities’ activities will focus, for example, on the one substance one assessment principle. ECHA will integrate its new tasks to this approach in coming years.

EDANA welcomes the European Commission’s proposed one-year delay in the implementation of the Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), as outlined in their recent press release. This amendment, while still needing approval from both the Council and the European Parliament, marks a significant step toward ensuring that our industry has the necessary time to effectively comply with the terms of this important regulation, while also continuing to meet their sustainability goals.

While the long-awaited guidelines for implementing the EUDR have now been released alongside the announcement, the EU's information system, designed to track materials and commodities, is still under development. As a key representative of the nonwovens sector, EDANA supports the regulation’s objectives and remains a constructive partner, actively contributing to discussions with policymakers and industry stakeholders.

This additional phase-in time will enable further collaboration with the authorities and our coalition partners, ensuring a smooth transition for all affected industries. EDANA remains committed to promoting sustainable supply chains and responsible practices, while helping ensure compliance across the sector. Our ongoing work aims to foster long-term, sustainable growth for the industry.

EURATEX together with COTANCE and CEC hosted the TCLF SkillBridge Stakeholder Event, an important step towards forming regional skills partnerships by bringing together various stakeholders from industry, education, and public sectors.

Co-financed by the European Commission, TCLF SkillBridge aims to establish and nurture regional partnerships between TCLF industries, regional authorities, and local universities and VET providers. The project will target up to 25 European regions with a strong concentration of textile, clothing, leather or footwear industries.  This regional focus will allow the development of specific action plans related to reskilling and upskilling, which meet the needs of each target region. The project will support the creation of such partnerships, facilitate community exchanges for knowledge sharing, and provide support to SMEs, enabling them to upskill and reskill their workforce in tune with the evolving demands of the industry.

The TCLF SkillBridge project complements 2 other initiatives – AEQUALIS4TCLF and METASKILLS4TCLF – which have already been launched under the Erasmus+ Programme. As a result, the industry has now a coherent set of instruments across the EU to address the skills challenges.

During the event, stakeholders from the Emilia Romagna Region, ATEVAL, and Verband der Deutschen Lederindustrie e.V. gave insights in their experiences in skills collaborations in their regions. An interactive session then followed, where stakeholders discussed how to successfully establish such regional partnerships under the Pact for Skills.