From the Sector

In its 19th year, the international textile industry exhibition ShanghaiTex will take place from 25 to 28 November 2019. Saurer Twisting Solutions would be delighted to welcome customers and visitors to Saurer's Stand D40 in Hall E1. The focus is on the highly efficient FusionTwister for staple fibre yarns.

The FusionTwister sets the benchmark for the cost-effective production of two-for-one twisted staple fibre yarns. In order to achieve this, we have taken into account the three main factors affecting our customers’ profitability, namely energy, economics and ergonomics.

The machines’ reliably low energy consumption is an important characteristic for decision-makers to take into account. Achieved by means of an optimised spindle drive as well as a great variety of spindle and feeding sizes for all kinds of applications, it is the main element in the equation of production costs.

Power consumption and costs are closely related, with energy efficiency positively influencing the return on investment, since it is daily challenge to process the maximum feeding weight while keeping electricity usage at a comfortable level.

The machine’s short set-up times, fast air threading and easy handling were key considerations with regard to optimising ergonomics.

Shanghai - ROICA™ lands in Shanghai to showcase its complete range of premium stretch fibers for the modern wardrobe and disclose its visionary approach and strategy for a cutting-edge and sustainable fashion.

On show, leading material innovator Asahi Kasei introduces a premium stretch fiber starting from the ultimate ROICA Eco-Smart™ Family. The certified and multi-awarded range has astonished the textile world for its hyper-performative features. “The new premium stretch is synonymous of transformation: from standard to speciality, from basic to special, from ordinary to clever and from standard to Smart.” Explains Shinichiro Haga, Senior Executive Manager - ROICA™ Division.

Sustainability and a responsible approach are the true core of research and development to create high-tech engineered yarns.Such visionary imprint imbues all ROICA™ innovations:

• ROICA Eco-Smart™ family: A true world-first with the most contemporary sustainable range of responsibly produced premium ingredients. ROICA Eco-Smart™ family offers 2 sustainably designed stretch yarns

- ROICA™ EF is GRS by Textile Exchange certified, thanks to the fact that more than 50% of yarn content comes from the recycling of pre-consumer waste.
- ROICA™ V550 yarn got the Cradle-to-Cradle® Innovation Institute’s GOLD LEVEL Material Health certificate for impacts on human and environmental health. This yarn is also Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificated, signifying at its end-of-life, ROICA ™ yarn smartly breaks down without releasing harmful materials.

• ROICA Feel Good™ family: A unique range of advanced stretch yarns that deliver personal performance and measurable wellness, freshness and comfort metrics for travel, sport, leisure and more.
   
• ROICA Colour Perfect™ family: A range of yarns that can give excellent, flawless and world unique colour dimensions in advanced fit solutions.
   
• ROICA Resistance™ family: A high performance range of stretch solutions with performance resistance designed for match particular applications.
   
• ROICA Contour™ family: A range of yarns that create new shaping, stretch and silhouette solutions for a calibrated fit, effortless control, softness, comfort and support.

ROICA™ already entered the most advanced collections of leading brands as: Wolford for exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, Sarah Borghi for hosiery, SITA Active for Smart pret-a-porter,  Daquini for athleisure, Livy for sensual lingerie, SCOTT Racing Team for cycling uniforms, Closed for denim, Un-Sanctioned for running suits, Vitamine A for beachwear and many others.

In Shanghai, ROICA™ is set to stand out as leader in Smart Innovation. As tangible proof of this, the company brings to Intertextile Shanghai some of its ultimate collaborations across China and the Far East.

STAMFORD, Conn. – At this year’s CAMX conference, taking place on September 24-26 in Anaheim, CA (Booth L42), Hexcel will promote its broad portfolio of composite innovations for aerospace and industrial applications.

On display at the Hexcel booth, visitors will see an integrated wing panel demonstrator made with HiMax™ non-crimp reinforcements that were specially developed to complement a new generation of infusion resin systems. Visitors will also see a wing box demonstrator made from HiTape® dry carbon reinforcements. Both parts were injected with Hexcel’s RTM6 infusion resin and incorporate a toughening veil to enhance mechanical properties to meet the structural requirements for aerospace parts.

With 50 years of experience and the most qualified carbon fiber positions on aerospace programs in the industry with its comprehensive range of high-strength, high-strain PAN-based carbon fibers, Hexcel continues to innovate and is introducing a new fiber to its portfolio. HexTow® HM54 combines high modulus and high tensile strength, which allows structural designers to achieve higher safety margins for both stiffness and strength-critical applications. HexTow® carbon fibers are excellent not only for aerospace applications but also industrial and recreational applications. HexTow® carbon fibers are excellent not only for aerospace applications but also industrial and recreational applications, examples of golfing applications will be on display.

Additive manufacturing is on the forefront of innovation for composite technologies, and Hexcel is leading the way with its HexAM® additive manufacturing process. HexAM® additive manufacturing combines high performance PEKK thermoplastics with carbon fiber to produce flight-ready 3D printed HexPEKK® parts. HexPEKK® structures offer significant weight, cost and time-to-market reductions, replacing traditional cast or machined metallic parts in highly demanding aerospace, satellite and defense applications.

HexPly® M77 snap-cure prepregs are yet another example of Hexcel technology leading the way. HexPly® M77HF, the latest member of this quick-curing prepreg family, is revolutionizing the world of composites for high-performance sporting goods with its faster production times and excellent surface quality. It will be featured in the Hexcel booth in two products – a carbon fiber Goode water ski which is setting records in the competitive world with its precision and durability, and in a HED cycling wheel noted for its aerodynamics and light weight.

Among Hexcel’s latest technologies are the RF Interference Control materials made by ARC Technologies, a Hexcel company. A selection of these industry-leading custom RF / EMI and microwave absorbing composite materials for military, aerospace and industrial applications will be on display at the Hexcel booth.

HexForce® bias weave woven reinforcements are a patented solution to optimize material usage. These bias weave reinforcements are continuous rolls of carbon fiber fabric in which the warp and weft yarns are oriented on the bias at +/- 45° which can reduce prepreg waste up to 60%. Visitors at CAMX will be able to see this new woven reinforcement and learn more.

Miles Johnson and Creative Room™ designed a capsule collection “Light on the Land”, for men and women to showcase ISKO™’s R- TWO™ program.

As the world’s leading ingredient denim brand, ISKO™ is at the forefront of the sustainable and responsible fashion movement. ISKO™, who loves to partner with likeminded designers, brands and retailers in the  industry that have a passion for Responsible Innovation™, is proud to announce its partnership with renowned British fashion designer Miles Johnson. Together they have created a visionary collection that will be launched at a private showing event on September 12th, at the Fremin Gallery in New York City.

For those who love denim and cherish the planet, this partnership is a perfect match as  Miles is known for prioritizing sustainability and responsibility in his work. Miles has held leadership positions such as Design Director at Levi Strauss & Co. and Senior Creative Director of Product Design and Development at Patagonia, Inc., where he served as a pioneer in creating clothing using sustainably sourced materials. For this capsule collection, Miles worked side by side with ISKO™’s Research & Development team utilizing the ISKO R-TWO™ program which combines a mix of reused and recycled materials. The reused cotton comes from ISKO™’s own production loss, which they continuously track and trace. This has the CCS (Content Claim Standard) certification. They combine this reused cotton with recycled polyester derived from PET bottles. Depending on the content, fabrics can have the RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certification or GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

The creative direction for the collection takes form with “Light on the Land” and the whole collection is made using low impact materials and responsible finishing techniques. Miles and the ISKO™ team carefully crafted 34 designs at the Creative Room™ in Italy. The styles incorporate responsible design principles which include:

• Minimal washing;
• Removable trims made of eco-metal;
• Natural based buttons and labels;
• Green bar tacks;
• Embroidered rivets.

Environmental messages are embroidered on six of the pieces, by the artist Giulio Miglietta. The garments are built to last and the more you wear these pieces, the more beautiful they become.

Re.VerSo™ will be on hand at Première Vision to present refined and innovative materials that inspire creativity and infuse technology. Worth to highlight, the fact that, at the beginning of 2019, Re.VerSo™ has been selected as one of the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking project of the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, thanks to the value it bears in the field of responsible innovation. Representing excellence as the result of a culture of Made in Italy traditions, combined with a new vision of Smart Innovation, Re.VerSo™, the advanced supply chain, integrated, transparent and traceable, 100% Made in Italy, covers the woven textiles market through the unique offer of A. Stelloni Collection by Mapel.

For next season, A.Stelloni Collection by Mapel offers even more Re.VerSo™ solutions with strong focus on noble fibres such as Re.VerSo™ Baby Camel and Re.VerSo™ Cashmere for coats and jackets. New finishes, draps, streaks, velours and, mostly, Re.VerSo™ Baby Camel developments, as the company is becoming leader for the sustainable Camel market.

• Empowering fashion with responsible R&D, cutting edge finishing and a Made in Italy design imprint

Paris - “The soul of sustainable fashion is an alchemy, a combined commitment and an act of responsibility”. This is the motto ‘embossed’ in the collections and the values of Italian Converter. At Première Vision, the leading manufacturer celebrates its 25th anniversary and presents E.C.O. KOSMOS, a cross-collection, a brand-new ‘green line’ range’ and a winning formula shining a light on the company’s responsible path and unique ‘blend’ for the fashion of tomorrow.

The acronym E.C.O. stands for Ecologic, Conversion, Optimisation; three unique concepts and values that truly embody Italian Converter DNA: sustainability, transformative process and quality improvement.
For over 25 years, Italian Converter creates high-quality materials for some of the leading fashion and accessories brands. “Made in Italy and sustainability are part of our DNA.” Says Costantino Karazissis, founder of Italian Converter. “We believe that responsible sourcing and processes as well as a deep research into new technology pathways and a market-savvy taste for material design must be the starting point.”

At the core of the company’s responsible alchemy is also the constant research for the perfect balance of 100% Made in Italy materials. “We proudly collaborate with 120 skilled employees producing new hybrid material innovations daily, attracting partnerships from the best high-end brands both in Italy and abroad”.

Toupe and brick red E.C.O. Graffiti (100% linen) on E.C.O. Aurora (cotton and AMNI SOUL ECO®)

E.C.O. KOSMOS is entirely traceable, transparent, 100%made in Italy. The collection walks through a very complete and balanced range sustainable materials - from natural to eco high tech ones- that are transformed, enriched and valued in 9 high-tech cutting-edge innovations thanks to the Italian Converter expertise.
•    The natural line starts from bases of cotton bonded with AMNI SOUL ECO®, an enhanced polyamide 6.6 that degrades within 5 years instead of decades, as other conventional ones do.
•    The stretch innovations start from bases in GRS-certified Newlife™, a cutting-edge premium recycled polyester created using a High-Tech Conversion Model. Thanks to a mechanical process, used plastic bottles are turned into a top-quality polymer and yarn which is 100% traceable and 100% Made in Italy. The whole process takes place within a 100 square km area in Piedmont in Northern Italy.
 
All the references make use only of water-based resins and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified dying. The result, is resistant and transpiring solutions which come with bold and high-performing features, with a soft touch or even with a silky, yet strong, and enveloping feel. The designs range from rustic to contemporary and nod to jacquard, ‘authentic look’ and ‘drill’ hints. An ideal solution for footwear, apparel and leather goods.

Long story short? No compromises. E.C.O. Kosmos reflects design, innovation and responsible values, as well as 100% Italian Converter know-how.
 
“But this is just the beginning,” adds Karazissis. “The next step we are going to implement in the E.C.O. Kosmos cross-collection is a progressive integration of our triple-expertise, processes and R&D.” A sustainable step forward, a leap woven into a deep expertise a story to-be-continued. For a better future, this is for sure.

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

Growth is driven by increased demand and expansion into new categories such as polyester sports clothing

Kornit Digital and Spreadshirt announced an expanded partnership for Spreadshirt to grow and renew its fleet of DTG printers to support increased demand and to expand into new categories.

Spreadshirt, a global on-demand apparel brand printing more than 5.5 million items annually, recently launched a division for third-party fulfilment that is already seeing rapid growth. The company also plans to expand into polyester sports clothing. Spreadshirt prioritizes quality and customer satisfaction and will be investing in Kornit’s most innovative print technologies in order to meet the highest quality standards and deliver fast turnaround to their customers, while increasing productivity and efficiency.

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), part of the Barry-Wehmiller Converting Solutions Platform, is joining with RDP Marathon Inc. and IPT Digital, and expanding its offerings for customers to include digital printing technology.

RDP Marathon has delivered engineered machine solutions for a variety of printing and packaging markets for 30 years. Through a partnership with IPT Digital, RDP Marathon also provides systems that convert existing presses into high-speed digital printing platforms, broadening its capabilities and reach across multiple packaging markets. Adding this innovative technology to PCMC’s portfolio of solutions not only will accelerate the company’s growth in its current markets, but also support its expansion into new markets, particularly the folded carton business.

For the first time, Italian textile company Manteco showcases its ultimate innovations at Première Vision’s Smart Creation, the fair’s most cutting edge epicentre showcasing visionary innovators pushing for a sustainable change and making the difference in the fashion business. The Prato-based company is leader in the production New Generation Recycled Wool thanks to a specially designed KM0, traceable and circular economy model.

Behind the sustainable approach and the premium quality textiles there are generations of ‘saper fare’ - know-how, in Italian -, indeed, Manteco’s products are not only responsibly Made in Italy but imbued with the skills of the artisans and makers working within 10 kms around the company. “Made in Italy does not mean processing high-quality materials with international technologies and then label the final product for export. It means products grown, taken care of and handcrafted in the country.” Says Matteo Mantellassi, CEO of Manteco. “But there’s a further step to this: harnessing the local ‘genius loci’, meaning the skills, traditions and human potential of a territory. We are proud to say that since 1943 we have always been 100% Made in Italy.”