From the Sector

The new advertising campaign for the Fall/Winter 2019 season exalts the most authentic spirit of the Pinko woman, a curious creature who plays with her spontaneous femininity and sensuality to give a rock ‘n roll and metropolitan vibe to the everyday life.

An iconic location, filled with magic and fascination, serves as the background of the images, vibrating with energy and determination, developed by an artistic team including photographers Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, stylist Vanessa Reid and creative director Riccardo Ruini. Hanging between the deep blue of the London sky and the dark waters of the Thames, the Lightship 93, the wonderful fruit of attentive naval recovery and restoration works, with its bold red silhouette becomes the ideal stage for the audacious and strong femininity of the Pinko woman, embodied by the modern, fresh beauty of American model Madison Headrick.

She moves with confidence and a certain frisky attitude among the ship’s red sheets wearing some of the most iconic pieces of the Pinko Fall/Winter 2019 collection. Revealing a seductive silhouette, a suit combines pinstriped Lurex pants with a sartorial blazer showing the waisted shape exalted by a maxi bow, while the utilitarian vibe of a black washed denim ensemble is enriched by the glamorous touch of a logo belt and of the Mini Love bags peppered by metallic accents. Sparkling reflections also steal the spotlight on the tops and skirts embellished with mirror mosaics and reach the climax on the coat where bouclé wool is paired with a metallic coated fabric, which makes the Pinko woman shine bright into the darkest night.

Lookbook: LINK

Young, all-Italian dream-team will lead Pinko to a next level

Pinko looks ahead. Evolution & revolution are the keywords for the new management’s strategies. For the first time, President Pietro Negra will be supported by an all-Italian young team to build the success of the brand from now on. Research and innovation have always been part of the Pinko DNA: once again, they lead the path to cutting edge management.

The Pinko family grows with figures fully trained in the realms of fashion, luxury and retail, the actual Pinko R-evolution kickstart. “We pondered on Pinko’s future,” says Pietro Negra, President of Cris Conf in Fidenza (Parma), which he founded with his wife Cristina Negra and which controls Pinko. “This is just the beginning of a bigger project to be disclosed step by step in the next few months. The company turnover is a crucial point for any family business willing to preserve its independence. We believe in the power of younger generations. Therefore we created an all-Italian team to boost an already successful business model.”

Federico Bonelli, with experiences in Ernst & Young, The Boston Consulting Group and Bain & Company has been appointed General Manager. Emanuele Bianchi, previously in Diesel Coccinelle and Dolce & Gabbana, takes on as Marketing & Communication Director. Cecilia and Caterina Negra, the founders’ daughters and pivotal figures of Pinko’s success, confirm their roles leading respectively the Communication and the Creative department. Caterina Salvador becomes Director of Style and Product after working in Giorgio Armani, Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, Coin. More talents will be eventually hired.

In a strongly declining market, Autoneum increased revenue in local currencies by 1.9% in the first six months of 2019 thanks to numerous model ramp-ups. At CHF 1 156.1 million, revenue in Swiss francs reached the previous year’s level (CHF 1 159.4 million). All four Business Groups outperformed the market. The turnaround program in North America is showing progress, but the persisting operational inefficiencies at two US plants continue to impact the profitability of the entire Group, as already communicated. Accordingly, EBIT fell to CHF 16.4 million in the first semester, while the anticipated negative net result totaled CHF –6.0 million.

The weak global macroeconomic environment, ongoing trade disputes and the resulting uncertainty among car manufacturers and consumers led to a further sharp decline in global light vehicle production in the first half of 2019. In this difficult market environment, Autoneum was able to increase its revenue by 1.9% in local currencies in the first six months compared to the prior-year period, particularly thanks to numerous model ramp-ups. At CHF 1 156.1 million, revenue in Swiss francs reached the prior-year’s level (CHF 1 159.4 million). While the number of vehicles produced in all regions declined, Business Groups (BG) North America, Asia and SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) grew and outperformed the respective market developments, two of them significantly. Only at Business Group Europe did the sharp drop in production volumes among vehicle manufacturers result in fewer call-offs and lower year-on-year revenue.

With Alpha-Liner, Autoneum launches its first-ever textile wheelhouse outer liner that not only reduces tire noise substantially, but also convinces with low weight. This newest lightweight component ensures a quiet driving experience and also helps vehicle manufacturers meet current and future noise and emission limits. Alpha-Liner premieres at the “Automotive Acoustics Conference” which takes place in Zurich,
Switzerland, on July 9 and 10.

Alpha-Liner is the latest innovation from Autoneum – a multifunctional wheelhouse outer liner that reduces tire noise with high efficiency and thus makes the vehicle quieter and lighter. Alpha-Liner is based on Autoneum’s newly developed technology, with which noise absorption can be adapted to the specific requirements of the vehicle model for the first time. To achieve this effect, a thin coated surface is applied on the tire side. The porosity of the coating can then be controlled according to the necessary absorption properties, the bottom part of the wheelhouse outer liner requires stronger noise treatment, which maximizes acoustic absorption.

• This new version of Modaris speeds up the time to market for collections

Paris – Lectra launches Modaris® V8R2, the latest version of its patternmaking, grading and prototyping 2D/3D solution. This new version of Modaris, the most widely used modeling solution by leading brands in fashion and apparel, offers greater speed, efficiency and precision in product development. With its powerful 3D simulation and collaboration tools, patternmakers are developing patterns faster and speeding up their decision-making procedures. By reducing or eliminating physical prototyping, product development is less expensive and the time to market is as close as possible to trend detection.

To preserve and strengthen its position as a market leader of product development software, Lectra, with this upgrade of Modaris, is giving particular focus to 3D virtual prototyping. Patternmakers can now share with their partners, 360-degree videos, accessible on any device. Designers in response are able to visualize, comment, and approve the style and fit using the new 3D Style module.

New advances have made it possible to reduce the number of physical prototypes by up to 50%. Modaris V8R2 improves the quality of the solution’s 3D simulations and expands its library with new assets (fabrics, 3D top-stitching effects, realistic scenes, lighting studios, Pantone® and Natural Color System®©,…). The solution is now compatible with Vizoo, a high-quality scanner that brings forth a heightened realism to the appearance of fabric swatches, and with other 3D solutions such as Maya, 3DS Max, Iray to make the digital renderings of the prototypes more true-to-life and accurate.

One of the innovative developments of Modaris V8R2 is a special dart feature to help patternmakers add dimension to their garments with ease. Thanks to this new feature, modifying a dart requires half the usual time, resulting in a 50-90% increase in overall patternmaking speed.

Another highlight of this solution, and important nod to the globalized workforce of the fashion industry, is its ability to manage different units of measurement. With Modaris V8R2, Lectra has made it possible for patternmakers and external suppliers the guarantee of size compliance, regardless of the measurement systems used in the countries where production occurs.

Modaris V8R2 is already gaining traction among its pilot customers. Italian womenswear company GGZ was the first to endorse Modaris V8R2. “GGZ is a fast-fashion company and time and quality are of the essence for us. Modaris’s new dart feature helps us save up to 50% of pattern modification time. Additionally, 3D prototyping helps us ensure that pattern volumes and proportions correspond to our designers’ expectations early on, dramatically reducing our lead times,” attests Majla Gottardo, Patternmaker, GGZ.

“We are entering the information age, and we are catering to patternmakers who are dealing with consumers with different tastes, of all body shapes and sizes. Our patternmakers have hundreds of collections to deliver and no time to spare for errors. What we are aiming to do is making their everyday work environment easier for them, by providing the tools to streamline the development process and reduce the number of reworks to achieve the right fit the first-time,” states Céline Choussy, Chief Marketing & Communications Officer, Lectra. “All this is possible with Modaris V8R2.”

Recognized as a preferred partner for the global textile industry, PIAVE MAITEX brings on the successful path of responsible innovation and present, at Interfilière Paris, a unique line under the name of “AGAIN”.

PIAVE MAITEX, since the very beginning in 1908 up to the challenge of modern-day innovation, combined the tradition in the field of elastic fabrics which today represents the heritage ofthe italiantextile culture to innovation.

Following its successful beginnings in summer 2018 and its expansion in January 2019, TRADE UNION will be developed yet further as a dedicated space for selected brands and agencies.
 
“TRADE UNION is very close to our hearts,” explains SEEK Director Maren Wiebus. “Being able to work together to fill a space with life, interact with customers and products, and tell authentic stories in a laid-back, relaxing atmosphere – this open-minded, collaborative approach is ultra-modern and of the minute in its simplicity. We are all in the same big boat and can consider ourselves lucky that colleagues and customers are and have become friends. Together, we can achieve a lot this way.”

It has always been integral to SEEK’s DNA to continually work with partners and friends to develop new concepts that are perfectly suited to the demands of the market. The carefully curated setting of TRADE UNION, featuring brands such as Eat Dust, Porter-Yoshida & Co and Knickerbocker, is especially popular with the top buyers.
 
Felix Engelmann has supported the concept right from the off through his marketing agency Haptiques, and is full of passion and on board again with the concept this season.
“The TRADE UNION concept really came off for us in January. We worked well with our partners; the vibe was positive and nicely relaxed. I’m expecting the atmosphere in the summer to be just as fantastic and I’m sure it’ll be a good occasion with friends, partners and employees.”
 
In July, buyers can look forward to an expanded portfolio including Red Wing Shoes, a brand from Minnesota. European Marketing Manager Rik van Dijk comments:
“We can't wait to attend the inspiring setting, because our buyers really feel at home there. We need a location where you can take a step back, find a quiet place to sit and talk to everyone. The extra space at the TRADE UNION guarantees this. We’ve only heard good things from friendly brands and we’re really looking forward to the trade show.”

Das hat sich das Franchiseunternehmen MODEMOBIL, das im Jahr 2003 von Frau Beate Winklewsky in Wuppertal gegründet wurde, auf die Fahne geschrieben. Mode soll auch im Alter Spaß machen, soll begeistern und Lebensqualität schenken! Mit einer mobilen Boutique und einem Rund-um-Service für Bekleidungseinkauf besucht MODEMOBIL Senioreneinrichtungen unterschiedlichster Art: von Seniorentreffs, Seniorenheimen und betreuten Wohnenanlagen über Kirchentreffs, Tagespflegen bis hin zu Behinderteneinrichtungen. Die Franchisenehmer oder „Modemobiler“ sind mit Herzblut für eine umfassende Modedienstleistung an Senioren unterwegs und vermitteln ihre Begeisterung im persönlichen Kontakt mit ihren Kunden. Die Kollektion bietet aktuelle, funktionelle und qualitativ wertige Mode für Damen und Herren in jeder Preiskategorie. Dabei ist Passgenauigkeit die große Stärke der MODEMOBIL-Bekleidung. Sie wird deutschlandweit an über 35 Standorten durch Franchisepartner und Mitarbeiter in Form von kleinen Mode-Events und Modenschauen erlebbar gemacht. Rüstige Bewohner der Einrichtungen und ehrenamtliche Models 60+ zeigen komplette saisonale Looks. In vertrauter Umgebung können Senioren nach Herzenslust stöbern, anprobieren und shoppen – inklusive einer individuellen Beratung.

In Zusammenarbeit mit Herstellern wie Raphaela by Brax oder Rabe Moden und mit einer eigenen Linie ist die MODEMOBIL-Kollektion auf über 1.000 Teile angewachsen: von Oberbekleidung wie Hosen, Blusen, Pullover, Westen und T-Shirts über Tag- und Nachtwäsche bis hin zu Schuhen und Accessoires. Das Sortiment kombiniert modische Aktualität mit dezenten Problemlösungen für alle Lebensbereiche, z. B. kaschierende A-Formen bei den Oberteilen, extra kurze Arm- und Hosenlängen, große Knöpfe, Innentaschen bei Jacken, Bequemschuhe oder Zweiwegereißverschlüsse.

Dazu die Geschäftsführerin Beate Winklewsky: „Unser mobiler Mode-Service bietet Senioren, die in ihrer Mobilität eingeschränkt sind, ein komfortables Einkaufserlebnis mit hohem Spaßfaktor und Unterhaltungswert. Rundum modisch und bedarfsmäßig perfekt eingekleidet zu sein: Das garantiert MODEMOBIL und schenkt neue Lebensqualität mit dem Gefühl, aktiv am Leben teilzunehmen.“ Die MODEMOBIL-Events sind ein kleines Highlight im Seniorenalltag. Sie werden von der Einrichtung und Angehörigen im Sinne eines kontrollierten Einkaufs begleitet und bieten unterhaltsame Abwechslung, wobei der Service-Gedanke an erster Stelle steht. Individuelle Nachbestellungen werden ebenso entgegengenommen wie Änderungswünsche. MODEMOBIL ist auch auf ausgewählten Seniorenmessen aktiv und zeigt seine Mode in Modenschauen, bei denen ehrenamtliche Models 60+ vielseitig kombinierbare, saisonale Outfits für unterschiedliche Tageszeiten und Anlässe präsentieren.

Weitere Informationen zum Unternehmen

Mitarbeiter einbinden und stetig weiterbilden – das war der einheitliche Tenor auf der zweiten Fachtagung des Mittelstand 4.0-Kompetenzzentrums Textil vernetzt im Rahmen der Messe Techtextil in Frankfurt/ Main.

Die Veranstaltung stand ganz im Zeichen von Arbeit 4.0 und speziell dem Einsatz von Assistenzsystemen im textilen Mittelstand zur Unterstützung der Mitarbeiter. Die Podiumsdiskussion mit den Unternehmern Peter Brunsberg, bagjack e. K., und Peter Ebenhoch, pro4tex GmbH, ging der Frage nach, inwiefern der Einsatz von Assistenzsystemen sinnvoll ist. „Wir zielen damit ganz klar auf den Ausbau unserer Produktivität ab“, so Peter Brunsberg. „Das können wir jedoch nur erreichen, indem wir vor allem die Mitarbeiter langfristig binden. Peter Ebenhoch sprach die Herausforderungen an, vor denen die Textilindustrie aktuell steht: „Die Branche muss sich noch stärker als bisher klarmachen, wie wertvoll die Mitarbeiter sind und gute Voraussetzungen am Arbeitsplatz schaffen.“ Die pro4tex GmbH setzt daher auf eine junge Führungsmannschaft, die Neustrukturierung ihres Maschinenparks und erste digitale Umsetzungsprojekte gemeinsam mit Textil vernetzt. Die beiden Textil vernetzt-Partner Frizzi Seltmann vom Sächsischen Textilforschungsinstitut (STFI) und Prof. Dr. Thomas Gries vom Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) an der RWTH Aachen University lieferten in ihren Beiträgen Möglichkeiten, mit welchem Know-how der textile Mittelstand unterstützt werden kann und Beispiele aus der Forschung für die textile Welt von morgen.

• Clean Technology. Smart Factory.

Remscheid – Oerlikon invites all visitors to this year's ITMA in Barcelona on a journey into the future of manmade fiber production. From 20 to 26 June 2019, the world market leader will show all its guests its vision of a sustainable and automated manmade fiber production in a virtual 4D showroom at its 1,000 m² stand in Hall 7, A101: "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." is the motto of the future. And this is only a stone's throw away from reality at the stand. Because today Oerlikon is presenting four world premieres for efficient machine and plant concepts in a new, innovative industrial design. Together with numerous other innovations, all this forms the new DNA of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

The challenges for the manmade fiber industry are manifold and Oerlikon shows its customers solutions:

1. Choosing the right business model
Price pressure on fiber and yarn manufacturers is growing due to global market consolidation. Here it is important to position oneself correctly. Are you producing polyester, nylon or polypropylene for the niche market and skimming off good margins with innovative products and ingenious material properties, or are you looking for business success through economies of scale in the volume market such as the constantly growing apparel sector? Oerlikon has the right answers for both business models. And the most important thing: the market leader supplies all solutions from a single source. See for yourself at the world premieres of the machine and system concepts of WINGS FDY PA6, BCF S8 Tricolor and the revolutionary eAFK Evo texturing machine.

2. Finding alternatives for good personnel
Finding good operators in the manmade fiber industry is becoming increasingly difficult, even in emerging industrial nations such as China, India and Turkey. The solution is obvious. What, for example, the automotive industry achieved years ago with the 3rd Industrial Revolution is now also taking its course in the textile industry. And at the same time it is even shifting up a gear. In the next step, automation in combination with digitization will lead to new, sustainable production. Oerlikon will be showing how automation and digitization interact at ITMA. Self-learning machines and systems, artificial intelligence (AI), remote services and edge computing are just a few of the key words in the digital half of the new Oerlikon Manmade Fibers DNA.

3. Guarantee quality and traceability
The qualities of the fibers and yarns must meet the highest demands and their production must be traceable throughout the textile value chain. This no longer only plays an important role in the automotive industry, where safety is of paramount importance. Other branches of industry that use fibers, yarns and nonwovens also want to know where the raw materials they produce for consumer articles come from. Legal regulations are demanding this more and more frequently. Oerlikon offers optimal solutions with its DIN ISO certified manufacturing processes. More than half of the world's manmade fiber producers are convinced every day that the qualities produced on Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven equipment are right – and all visitors to ITMA can do the same on site.

4. Efficient and sustainable production
In the future, the materials produced from manmade fibers must become part of a further improved global recycling economy. The recycling of polyester – with over 80% market share the most frequently used manmade fiber in the world – has not only been on the agenda since today. Oerlikon already has solutions at hand: from PET bottles to fibers and filaments, to textiles and carpets. ITMA is the next step. With the VacuFil® Oerlikon in cooperation with the subsidiary company BBEngineering presents the world premiere No. 4 – a recycling solution within a running polyester production with a waste-free approach.

Vision becomes reality
The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment thus demonstrates what the ITMA in Barcelona promises as the world's leading trade fair for textile machinery and plant construction: "Innovating the world of textiles – sourcing for a sustainable future". In Hall 7, A101, this is already reality.